Pinpoint Style

Paris Window Shopping

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 11 Dec 2010 03:44:00 +0000

Not much commentary on these. Just took some shots while I was in Paris over Thanksgiving of the displays of some quality, and world renowned, shops.

John Lobb. One of the finest makers of shoes in the world. Love those double monk straps.

Old England. I know it sounds strange to visit a store with that name in the capital of France. But it's home to some of the finest classic British apparel anywhere. Covers the range from casual cool to black tie. I don't know what it is about British style, but it just exudes confident class, and never seems to be trying too hard.

Charvet. The epitome of French tailoring, they're shirting is truly astounding. They make a few nice ties too. Most notable to me is their elegant use of rich color. Pay special attention to the silk robe with the bow tie. If you can ever pull that off, I'd say you're in a good situation.

Jacket Weather Calls For a Sport Coat

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 00:30:00 +0000

When a jacket is necessary to keep warm, it might as well set the tone for your ensemble and be your centerpiece. Here I have a nice gunclub check sport coat in perfectly autumn colors--the small check pattern keeps the jacket appropriate for the office, but still distinctly different than a standard blazer and interesting enough to be the centerpiece in the outfit. To compliment the jacket, and keep the fall feel, I've chosen an ecru oxford button down. A solid navy repp weave tie isn't too dressy, and avoids any clash with the pattern of the jacket. A navy small print pocketsquare completes the top--if thatt seems like too much for your environment, white linnen would work too. Charcoal flannnel trousers--go to trousers from October to February around here--some nice olive socks, and brown calfskin bluchers complete the bottom.

Fall Is a Great Time To Be a Man

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 13:00:00 +0000

Fall, more than any other season, lends itself to dressing with style because the temperature and traditional color palette calls for grown-up ensembles comprised of masculine weaves, textures, and tones. Rather than an affect, a sport jacket, especially in a heavier tweed or woolen fabric, is functional amidst cooler mornings and evenings. Flannel trousers, which have a wonderful luster, hand, and drape, feel cozy. And the colors of fall just feel manly--browns, navies, and tans complimented by burgundy, deep greens, orange, and gold.

Here I've created what I think is a quintessential business casual look, inspired by and functional for the fall. Charcoal flannel trousers, a wool and angora heavy sport coat, traditional oxford cloth shirt, with an ancient madder necktie, and green gingham cotton pocketsquare.

A Stop at the Seigo Shop

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 20 Nov 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Far up in the Upper East Side, there's a wonderful little shop called Seigo that specializes in neckties, and carries a few other odds and ends that complete a professional wardrobe. The proprietor of this shop is extremely welcoming, and let me snap a few shots of his store. However, these shots don't capture just how many ties are available and how stunning they look in person. The sales associates are happy to assist you in sorting through the ties to find the colors and styles you're interested in, and have a variety of shirts and suiting materials to pair with your selections to demonstrate how they would work as part of your outfit.

Seigo's ties are all hand made in Japan use Japanese silk, and only a handful of ties are made using each silk pattern. Most of the ties are approximately three and a half inches wide, although they also offer a selection of ties in the currently en vogue three inch width. Most of the ties are woven silks, although I believe there are some prints to be had. They also have silk swatches on hand and offer custom ties. They're not seven fold ties, but construction is top notch--they hang and drape beautifully, which suggests that quality interlining is used. The price point is also much better than one would expect for this kind of small specialty shop.

Seigo has an incredible selection of patterns--from traditional stripes, dots, and checks, as seen on this one (of several) racks above, to bold geometrics, florals, foulards, and whimsical animal patterns, and many in a several different colorways. In addition to these racks on the wall (there are more on the opposite wall just like these), their are also cabinets lining the shop, each with several drawers that pull out revealing another selection of ties, as well as cabinets in the center.

Seigo also carries a lovely selection if silk and cotton pocket squares. I don't know if they have quite as many squares to choose from as ties, but its close. Additionally, a large selection of bowties, japanese made socks, and if I remember correctly, some cufflinks are also available. And I'm sure I missed something in my visit.

You might have noticed that a tie looked missing from the racks in the second shot -- well I did take one of these gorgeous ties home -- a navy woven with a small animal print in a few nice colors. Here it is up close to show off the quality of the silk and the craftsmanship of the tie, as well as the hand-numbered keeper on the back showing that only 12 ties of this silk pattern were made.

***

Independent men's specialty shops like this one--it doesn't even have a website--are few and far between these days. Going into one, especially one like Seigo, generates the same excitement that going to a cool toy or stationary shop did when I was a kid. Seigo is definitely one of the best men's specialty shops left in Manhattan, and whenever I have a chance to visit the UES, whether I'll have time to stop by Seigo will definitely be in the back of my mind.

Re-discovering Preppy

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 11 Nov 2010 04:17:00 +0000

The men's clothing retail market's obsession with mining old catalogs for new style has now resulted in a resurgence of preppy style--while a little late to the party, traditional bastions of American style have gotten into the act of trying to put a young and current spin on their long-standing staples and re-emphasizing old classics that had started to fall by the wayside. At Brooks Brothers, traditional oxfords can be found a bit more easily these days, and repp weave striped ties seem more abundant and in their traditional widths.

As is evident in this window display, college life is where preppy style begins. When done right, something about this aesthetic seems youthful but not juvenile, and confident but not cocky. Its an involved look--many colors, patterns, and layers are involved--but shouldn't be an uptight one. It looks best when disheveled and rumpled. Too pressed, tucked in, and crisp and it crosses into obnoxious, rather than charming, pretension.

This Brooks Brothers window display shows how preppy style can grow up and be a little more mature without losing all of its appeal. This look might be too serious for a college man, but being pressed and tucked in seem appropriate for living in the real world. Earthy colors and substantial textures keep these ensembles from being too slick, while also quite functional in the fall.

This wardrobe is appropriate for young professionals in a business casual setting, and also works on the weekend. And one more nice thing about sticking with classic American style--almost everything works with everything else, so little thought has to go into coordinating trousers, shirts, sweaters, and jackets. A big part of the style is the effect of outfits looking thrown together rather than meticulously thought out.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 05:50:00 +0000

Is Italy Too Italian?

Interesting article on the Italian tailored clothing and textile industry, featuring a true living legend of style.

A Little Break

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 03:03:00 +0000

Pinpoint Style's not done, just on hiatus for a little. I'll be getting married in less than 3 weeks, and away for my honeymoon after that. I also, unfortunately, have to work for a living, and it seldom involves writing about style. Planning a wedding and remaining employed haven't left me with as much time as I'd like to devote here, but I'm not hanging up the lap top.

I'll try to get back to regular posting, hopefully, in about a month. But feel free to discuss the various topic's that I've raised in the comments. I should have time to moderate.

Take care,

N.M.C.

Silk Knits

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 02:23:00 +0000

Silk knit ties have made a comeback in menswear recently, but still aren't really thought of as serious business attire. While a square-end silk knit tie won't ever be as dressy or proper as a classically shaped woven or printed silk tie, silk knits definitely have a place in the upscale business casual wardrobe.

The primary reason why recent silk knits haven't seemed business appropriate for young professionals is because they've been marketed as retro trendy by many large retailers, and have been re-introduced in a overly-slim trendy two inch width. For instance, take a look at J. Crew's and Polo's recent silk knit offerings. Most men wouldn't find such a slim tie to be serious enough for the office, especially if they're not waif thin, and I wouldn't blame them. I wouldn't want the attention of "whoa, Mr. Skinny Tie, so hip." It might sound like a compliment, but it's not the kind to get at the office.

Silk knit ties in more traditional widths, though, serve a useful function in the business casual wardrobe—a function that's often hard to come by. Silk knits add completeness and sophistication to your outfit by virtue of being neckties, but aren't too serious for everyday wear. They're out of the ordinary, but in a good way, not strange—everyone's seen a knit tie before, just not all the time. So they give you some personality, but not too much. And they come in a variety of colors, typically solids, so they're easy to coordinate with any outfit—especially patterned sport coats. They also add some nice texture. So all in all, silk knits really help get an outfit into that sweet spot in between too dressy and sloppy, and matchy-matchy and clashy-clashy.

Silk knits can almost only be tied properly with a four in hand—most other knots will just be too big and unwieldy. They also travel well because they're hardy—they can't be creased or crinkled, so just roll them up and put them in your bag. I prefer silk knits that have a tight, crunchy weave—they usually have a bit more texture and luster, and really pop. Although flat weave silk knits, like in the first image, look very elegant. The looser the weave the more informal the knit, in my view, and the color doesn't seem a vivid either. Silk knit weaves will get looser over time, from gravity, and for that reason often come shorter than standard tie length to accommodate some stretch over time.

Here are a few examples of the various silk knits I've found, and it's obvious that there's a large variety of textures out there. All of these are in between 2.5" and 3" in width.

Hip to be Square

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 04:02:00 +0000

Pulling off a pocket square as a young professional without it seeming like a affectation is difficult. I think a big part of making it work is making sure that your square doesn't compete for attention with your tie or shirt, (or jacket) and making sure your fold is neat and discrete. Lastly--wear it comfortably. If you seem nervous about wearing a pocket square, your colleagues will sense your apprehension and look wearily at your square. Act like your square is just as much a part of your outfit as your shirt and all anyone will think about your square is that its just one element of a well put together look.

Make you're squares are well pressed. They'll fold better and look neater that way. I think a basic white linen square is the safest place to start, but also the most formal. After that, I would suggest to pick up squares in a variety of colors and classic patterns, like madras, gingham, floral prints, etc. Stick with cotton and linen though--these materials don't have the flash that silk does, which usually something to avoid. It also provides some texture contrast to a silk tie.

If you're not sure how to start wearing a square, I'd recommend a navy blazer--its plain, generally needs something to spice it up, and goes with any color or pattern square. Unlike a suit or patterned sport coat, a blazer actually seems like it needs a square, and the effect is actually to be more sporty, rather than formal. Stick with a solid shirt and tie, and your choice of square patterns is wide open. Make sure the colors of the square coordinate with, but not match, the shirt and tie. If you're sticking with a white linen square, then you can wear any shirt and tie you want. Get comfortable wearing squares first, and start getting more adventurous with your shirt/tie/square combination second.

There are numerous online resources for how to fold a square. Keep it basic at first--the TV fold, or standard three points--to avoid looking too much like a dandy.

King Ralph

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 02:21:00 +0000

I have tremendous respect for Ralph Lauren as a designer and innovator of the menswear industry. To this day he continues to drive trends in tailored clothing, despite generally sticking with the same aesthetic--traditional American blue blooded country clubs and professionals--since he got his start making ties and selling them shop to shop. Ralph Lauren is a great example of how consistency can be stylish and how trends can coexist with staples. Ralph Lauren is also a model for maintaining high standards of quality, despite becoming an enormously successful and available brand. Tailored and dress clothing from Mr. Lauren's Polo, Black Label, and Purple Label collections are all sourced from fine Italian makers. Mr. Lauren's shoes are made by some of the finest British makers. Ralph Lauren's prices reflect the quality of its construction, but are often lower than the prices the same makers charge for products labeled with their own name. And Ralph Lauren has sales a few times a year.

Ralph Lauren's inspiration might have once been Northeastern old money, but today men are inspired by the lifestyle that Mr. Lauren has cultivated through his clothing. Mr. Lauren's shops also reflect his stylized idea of the good life, and nowhere is this more on display than his Madison Avenue mansion.

I'm not exactly sure who actually lives the lifestyle the Mansion was inspired by, but if anyone does I'd say they're pretty fortunate because they definitely don't have to care about much. And that attitude's not a bad thing for anyone to project--just make sure its the right time and place. Indeed, that's also the downside to the Mansion--it's not a place for a budding young professionals to start building their wardrobe, as the size and extravagant displays can make it difficult to find the basics and be a little intimidating. However, if you need some color in your wardrobe, or want to show a little more confidence, Ralph probably has what you're looking for.

Davide and Goliath

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 03:28:00 +0000

I believe every young professional should get on familiar terms with at least one good, small, local haberdasher. A relationship with a nice men's shop means a place to go for just about everything--not just clothes. It's a retreat once in a while when life gets hectic--a good haberdasher should never give the hard sell. And since the proprietor should certainly be older than you, and have fitted the movers and shakers of the community, it's a place to get guidance on what's appropriate behavior in a particular situation and how to carry oneself as a man. Picking up some great duds is just part of the deal.

Unfortunately small men's shops have fallen by the wayside in favor of large department stores and self-branded boutiques. I don't think it's impossible to find this kind of relationship at a department store or boutique, especially an older established department store or a good Brooks Brothers, but it's certainly less likely. For all of these reasons, I love to find independent men's stores and speak to the owners or managers. The least I can do is give everyone a head's up when I discover one worth visiting.

Most recently I discovered Davide Cenci in New York, the American outpost of a venerable men's shop in Rome, and had a wonderful experience. Their door is just a few blocks down from Ralph Lauren's mansion, which offers similar goods and more selection, but the shopping experiences were quite different. I think Davide Cenci's aesthetic, selection of accessories, and strong range of tailored clothing options is fantastic--but it was topped by the service and expertise of their staff.

I spent some time speaking with Georgio about the history of his shop and the makers of his goods, and never felt out of place, like I being sold, or hurried out the door, despite being clearly a bit younger than their typical client and obviously not in the market for a new suit. I was also not the only customer in the store. Georgio understood the importance of cultivating me as a customer as my career progresses--and I of course signed up for the mailing list. It's a small shop--shirts and accessories on the first floor, tailored clothing on the second.

Here's some shots I took of their front window--the Italians seem to have mastered casual elegance and summer materials--and one of their tie racks.

Davide Cenci has a great selection of ready to wear suits, sport coats, and trousers, from Italian makers at three different price points. Their entry level is Cantarelli, mid level is Belvest, and top of the line is Sant Andrea (aka St. Andrews). Made to measure is also an option, and many swatches are on hand. I confess that I did not confirm which of these lines they offer for made to measure.

They have a selection of unique ties sourced from the same silk maker who works with Brioni, and have in store a mix of patterns--stripes, dots, and whimsical prints--sufficient to outfit any occasion. I was particularly impressed with their silk knit ties, the length of which runs subtly from a lighter to a darker shade of their particular color. Very cool, yet wearable.

They also offer an ample selection of shirts, ready to wear and made to measure, Italian-made shoes, outerwear, and also a fabulous selection of dress socks. All from excellent makers. I did walk away with a couple of pairs socks--and Giorgio was nice enough to fill me in on their private sale going on too. I will certainly be going back when I'm in the market for some new duds, and probably even when I'm not, just to say hello.

M.M.C.

All Work And No Play...

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 18 May 2010 02:39:00 +0000

"I am through with working. Working is for chumps." --Bart

"Son, I'm proud of you. I was twice your age before I figured that out." --Homer

Your whole life isn't business casual--sometimes special occasions call for a bit more than the office does. Most recently for me was an evening at the Metropolitan Opera with my fiancee. I don't have a black tie ensemble, and I see that less and less at the opera with the exception of opening night gala's and such. But I can use my wardrobe built for business to look appropriate for a nice of culture. And I'm starting with a two-button single breasted suit in a medium gray worsted herringbone pinstripe. A nice three season weight, and versatile enough to look great in the board room or the ball room. I like that this suit is very traditional--standard with lapels, roomy cut, double pleated pants and one and a quarter in cuffs. Sleek, slim modern suits are cool, but I think it takes some extra fabric (but not baggy) to do elegance right.

To dress this up, I think the first step is a white shirt. White is always the dressiest choice, especially with a spread collar, french cuffs, and french front (meaning no placket). The dressiest fabrics are lightweight, smooth shirtings like Sea Island cotton or broadcloth. But these also wrinkle easily, and tend to be somewhat transparent--the weight is nice for summer, but I don't think they deal well with perspiration. So my choice is royal oxford.

The tie is what really gets this outfit spruced up. For a dressy occasion, I suggest a solid or semi-solid (such as a pin dot pattern) tie in a formal material such as woven silk or satin. For summer, though, I think a grenadine weave--an open silk weave, similar to knitted silk, but with a subtler texture and more sheen. Since I'm out at my leisure, I chose medium blue that's appropriately classy but still fun. If I had any concerns about color being frowned upon, navy always looks great with gray.

To finish things off--I'll deal with shoes and socks a little later--a silk pocket square. A navy silk square with a nice floral print does the trick. Not too matchy with the tie, not too flashy, but coordinated with everything. Silk rather than cotton or linen is nice because its a tad more formal and incorporates a different texture.

And of course the Met was fantastic.

N.M.C.

American Informal

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 16 May 2010 15:15:00 +0000

"Cultivated leisure is the aim of man." --Oscar Wilde

According to a great coffee table book put together by the Council of Fashion Designers of America called American Fashion Menswear, which my fiancee got me for my birthday, there's a genre of menswear called "American Informal." I would say "American Informal" is pretty consistent with my aesthetic for modern business attire--it being built around odd jackets and trousers, strong textures and distinguished but bold patterns, natural colors with some bold accents. It hales from the time when a gentleman's country attire was dressed up by today's standards, but regarded as dressed down leisurewear compared to the morning dress and black tie appropriate for the city. Here's one example that I liked quite a bit--even though I don't plan on wearing quite so much into the office, it's still inspiring.

This outfit from designer Sal Cesarani in 1997, while a bit too matchy-matchy for my taste, is a good example of dressed-up leisure from the age of country estates. Notice the heavy use of textures with the waistcoat and sport jacket, the bold jacket pattern, but the generally sedate and serious color palette. As a young professional I wouldn't opt for a waistcoat, and certainly not a collar pin and strait collar, but the principles of relaxed distinction are applicable to refined business casual. I would substitute an ecru oxford cloth button down, perhaps a colorful pocket square, and toned down lapels.

The "American Informal" tradition of blending sportswear and informal pieces with formal attire has been adopted so heavily by today's paragons of male fashion--Italian designers like Brunello Cucinelli and style icons like Gianni Agnelli--that it's easy to loose track of its American roots. But this style originated with Americans, particularly Hollywood's golden age movie stars like Cary Grant and Fred Astaire.

Here Cary Grant used a subtle touch to make a basic suit and tie a little more interesting and relaxed. Look closely, and you'll see that he's wearing a silk knit tie, a staple of more laid back Ivy League style but unexpected with a serious double breasted suit. Classic cool.

A fundamental of style is mixing formal and informal in unexpected ways--it applies especially to business casual.

N.M.C.

Casual Fridays

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 14 May 2010 02:53:00 +0000

"The best thing about casual Friday is that it makes those of us who decline to observe it look really, really good." -- Esquire

My office doesn't have casual Friday's, but I do think it's a good day to loosen up a bit--and no, I don't mean a belly shirt or patriotic underpants a la Will Ferrell. For me, it means giving my neck a day to let it all hang out--that's right, no necktie. It took me some getting used too, and it felt a bit immodest at first--but I think I've been able to make it work. I also avoid suits, obviously, unless I have to wear one. But that's as casual as I get, and I would even recommend the same to young professionals who have the option of wearing jeans on Friday. I suggest an informal seasonal sport coat, a pinpoint oxford button down in a not-so-basic color or pattern, and some trousers.

I like that this sport coat has a rough tweedy texture, and some subtle color woven into the fabric that goes well with blues and lavenders. It's also on the shorter side, so its a bit more fun and casual that way.

Also, my pinpoint oxford is a very soft lavender, but it has a slight sheen. And the collar has a great roll--when it's buttoned, the collar doesn't just lay flat but curls a bit from the top to the point. It keeps your neck a little more interesting, and gives brings a relaxed, well worn attitude.

I think the trousers really complete my casual Friday get-up--they're charcoal, but a wool synthetic blend that have an almost denim-y texture. And they have a slim, modern cut. I don't think anyone would notice the texture on first glance so they're safe for my conservative office.

So I still put some thought into my dressed-down Friday outfit--it's not complicated, but still coordinated, incorporating color and interesting textures.

N.M.C.

Well Pressed Duds

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 12 May 2010 04:15:00 +0000

The classics are always in style, and nobody makes this more apparent than J. Press on Madison Avenue. J. Press is more than a century old, but it's aesthetic has hardly changed in that time. It still offers all the old standards in traditional American menswear--repp stripe, emblematic, club, and knit ties; a healthy variety of button down dress shirts; sack suits, blazers, and tweed sport coats; flannel trousers and chinos, etc. J. Press has kept its traditionally roomy not baggy fits too--not the slim and trim designer re-incarnations of traditional style. Despite it's adherence to tradition, J. Press looks still look fresh and smart, despite and perhaps because of it's simplicity. It's a good reminder that style doesn't come from doing too much.

Take a look at what well chosen basics can do--blue pinpoint oxford button down, regimental stripe tie, gray worsted 3 rolled to 2 button suit, and a white linen pocket square. No need to reinvent the wheel.

Summer wedding or garden party? No problem. Substitute a gray worsted for a summer weight cream suit and I'd be ready to go. It's hard to get more versatile and stylish than a button down and regimental tie.

J. Press is available online here: J. Press. But I recommend ducking into one of their stores sometime to get the full effect.

N.M.C.

A Man and His Ties

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 11 May 2010 04:28:00 +0000

"A well tied tie is the first serious step in life." --Oscar Wilde

Allow me to indulge in one of my hobbies for a few moments. I love neckties. I have for as long I've had regular occasions to wear them--which for me began in high school. I don't know what it is about them exactly that makes me so fond of them--perhaps it's the evident craftsmanship in a good tie, or the fact that ties can so easily and obviously spruce up a tired suit or old shirt. Maybe I'm just childishly drown toward all the pretty colors. I do know I love the task of selecting just the right tie to go with everything else, and the satisfaction that comes with getting it right. I also think that one's choice of tie actually suggests something about his character and background--information that can be quite useful in many social situations. And whenever I visit a haberdashery, especially for the first time, I immediately inspect the selection of ties--if the ties aren't too my taste, then I doubt much else will be either. So I'd like to share on occasion some of the tie collections that I find particularly appealing.

Among the gobs of ties available at Saks 5th Avenue's flagship store, one rack of ties in particular stood out to me--and the maker might be surprising given all the luxury names Saks carries. The brand is Breuer.

I liked these nice woven dots in bright but tasteful spring colors in particular. Lately I've been drawn toward traditional patterns, and I think these were especially tasteful--I think the dots are just the right size and density. A touch whimsical, but not too much. In general I found the entire spring collection to be full of woven ties in colorful but classic and versatile designs. And the quality, for the price point, is exceptional--these ties are made of luxurious thick silk and have quality wool linings--but the silk is not so powdery fine that it won't hold up to regular wear. Breuer ties are designed in France and made in Italy, and can be found at Saks, and smaller independent haberdasheries around the country. I believe they also make ties for the house Faconnable. Here are the rest. I was also quite fond of the woven linen and silk ties.

N.M.C.

The Fabric of Our Lives

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 10 May 2010 11:48:00 +0000

While most of my shirts white or blue, and all of them are cotton, I did not choose to get several of the exact same shirt in different colors. While blue dress shirts might seem all the same to the casual observers, subtle differences have a significant affect on style. And one of the easiest things to overlook about a shirt is the kind of fabric it was made from. The fabric will effect the look of the color through its texture and sheen.

There are myriad cotton fabrics, but I've found that knowing just a handful has sufficed for shopping off the rack. The first, and in my opinion most versatile, is pinpoint oxford:

Pinpoint oxford has a slightly rough texture, so it's not so dressy as smoother weaves, but still appropriate to wear with a tie. It's light weight and breathes, so it's suitable to wearing under a jacket and in warmer weather, but it's not so light that it wrinkles quickly. It also tends to have a very slight sheen. Most of my dress shirts are pinpoint. Oxford cotton fabric is second.

Oxford is courser and denser than pinpoint--so it's more casual and less wearable in the summer months. But good two-ply oxford cloth holds up extremely well over time, getting softer with wear, and becomes more stylish after its begun to show some age. Like pinpoint, it does not wrinkle easily and sheds wrinkles quickly, but it is completely matte. For dressier situations, I'm fond of royal oxford.

Royal oxford is the largest weave of the three oxfords, and has the most noticeable texture and the highest sheen. Despite the texture, this weave has a smooth, elegant hand, holds up well after being pressed, and the high seen is appropriate for more formal settings. For a smooth cotton weave, I prefer end on end.

End on end means that the fabric was woven from two different cloths. From a distance end on end fabrics look smooth and solid, but up close the weave is visible--a subtle element that adds some interest. It also has a slight sheen. It does wrinkle more than the oxford weaves, but not as badly as some smooth weaves. How easily it wrinkles will depend in part on the weight and thread count of the cloth. It's a great option for occasions that require conservative business formal attire.

Better Shop Around

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 09 May 2010 18:32:00 +0000

"'I'll think about it' are the four most useful words in a man's shopping vocabulary."

A wardrobe, the foundation of style, must come from somewhere. So I regard shopping as just another element of my personal style. I patronize stores, and accordingly buy clothes, that are consistent with my needs as a business casual young professional aiming to impress but not show off.

The first step is getting the basics. But the men's department, especially at higher end stores, can lead young professionals to well coordinated, single outfits, rather than more versatile staples. For instance when I went to Saks 5th Ave yesterday this spring ensemble caught my eye. But while its stylish, it's probably not where I should start building my wardrobe. I'll come back to this after I have my base--as I don't think I'd have another tie to wear with the shirt, and vice versa.

The primary components of the business casual wardrobe are trousers in charcoal and gray, blue and white shirts, and navy blazers and sport coats in traditional patterns. These staples have great versatility. They can easily be dressed up and dressed down, and coordinate easily with more exciting pieces I already own. And I did not have enough when I started out as a young professional. Only needing to wear these items occasionally, I needed only one or two of each--they could always be laundered before I needed them again. But that won't cut it now that I work at least five days a week--and generally want to carry myself as a professional even when I'm not in the office.

I saw this nice navy blazer at Saks--but it wouldn't have stood out if I hadn't been looking for basics. It was not displayed as prominently as the louder, more seasonal coats. So classics can be had.

So what specifically do I need? I've found that at least four white shirts, eight blue shirts, and two pink/lavender dress shirts is a nice place to start--and I was surprised to find that I didn't have that many basic white or blue shirts when I started dressing for the office because I'd always preferred livelier and bolder patterns that suited a student. This means I'm wearing a blue shirt a little more than half the time, a white shirt once or twice a week, and pink once every two weeks--and I have enough to go two weeks before laundering--with a few shirts left before my shirts return.

I liked having two solid gray trousers, two sold charcoal trousers, and two tan trousers. Trousers' role in style is to avoid distraction and blend in--I think that when trousers stand out, a look often seems over the top. This ratio keeps me from seeming too repetitive, but I still don't ever have to think much about which trousers to put on. And good wool trousers can be worn several times without needing to be pressed or cleaned if hung properly after wearing--so six pairs should be a good start.

And two jackets--a navy blazer, and another neutral sport coat, perhaps with a check. Business casual doesn't demand a jacket, but wearing one will keep you warmer on brisk mornings and seem more put together, but not overdone. Here's a sport coat I saw this weekend at J. Press that would look smart with trousers and a solid dress shirt--I wouldn't coordinate as much as this mannequin likes to.

Such a foundation, on its own, will be elegant and distinguished because these quality basics have a timeless style even without accessories. It's also essentially a blank slate that details like pocket squares and ties can easily be added to. And I'll have pieces that will go with and tone down the louder patterned shirts and jackets that I acquire down the road. So sales associates started showing me their pre-selected combinations of patterned shirts and ties--I said I'd think about it, and asked for the basics.

And with all the spring and friends and family sales going on right now (Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren starts soon)--this is a great time to stock up.

Spring Forward

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 07 May 2010 12:00:00 +0000

“Anything goes, as long as you can pull it off.” Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta

Just as my white shirt needed some accouterments to spice it up, this shirt/tie combination inspired by a nice spring day needs to be toned down to avoiding turning too many heads at the office. Here I'm starting with complimentary pastels--a pink button down collar dress shirt/pastel green and blue printed silk tie--basics for a clambake but not the boardroom to be sure.

But a navy blazer and gray flannel trousers can turn a preppy uniform a into a youthful, light-hearted look that's put together yet business appropriate--especially on a nice day.

Gray flannel trousers are a conservative office standard, bringing the outfit back from the beach and into the office, but still coordinate smartly with pastels.

A navy blazer keeps the country club aesthetic but further tones down the bright pastels, creating a playful yet professional look. With a jaunty linen pocket square peeking out, I've continued my saltwater theme, broken up the navy, and made the outfit appear complete. Worn with confidence, I don't think anyone will give a second thought to this ensemble.

N.M.C.

Style Takes Some Coordination

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 06 May 2010 12:00:00 +0000

"Dressing would be monotonous without the graphic interest of a variety of designs" --Alan Flusser

Being a young professional, I don't read this as an invitation to wear any combination of stripes, dots, or plaid together with the idea of suggesting that I don't care what anyone else thinks--but a tasteful mixing of serious patterns is a good way to liven things up. On the subject of patterns, I think gingham is a good place for young professionals to start. But finding a tie can be tricky.

A gingham shirt with a tie is great for business casual--the gingham provides the casual and the tie provides the business. But not any tie will work here. As numerous style gurus have noted, the key to pattern combination is contrasting scales and complimentary/coordinating colors. This navy micro-gingham calls for a larger pattern like this pin dot, and navy and orange dots coordinate/compliment with the navy check . Also the darker navy base of the tie keeps the mix of patterns conservative, and the orange dots pop just enough. When mixing and matching patterns at the office, I think it's best to keep the colors subdued--at least in the middle of the week.

I like to pair this with a medium/lighter gray wool trouser--gray and navy always look smart together. I think coordinating simple and basic patterns, appropriately, is one of the best ways to appear put together, and not seem like I'm trying too hard or dressing above my paygrade.

It can be difficult to take the edge off of start solids. But with an informal, earthy blazer that has some hints of navy woven in it, I complete an office appropriate ensemble that has some relaxed, lived in and dressed down style--and it got me through a rather long day.

N.M.C.

A 'Traditional' Approach

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 05 May 2010 12:00:00 +0000

"It was a good look and still is. Next to a tuxedo or military uniform, there's nothing that makes a guy look better than Ivy League."-- Charlie Davidson, the Andover Shop

Some staples of Ivy League style work as well for young professionals in the office as it does for co-eds at a mixer. Neat and traditional enough for the business casual office, but the classic iconography adds some completeness and depth to an otherwise plain look.

One great example is the university stripe button down shirt in traditional oxford cloth--blue is the most obvious choice, but here I went with the red. Since I'm going to tone down the Ivy look a bit, the red stripe keeps the Ivy look from getting lost.

A regimental tie pairs well, is consistent with the Ivy motif, and dresses up the shirt just the right ammount. True Ivy style calls for a repp weave tie, but here I've worn an Irich Poplin--a 50/50 blend of merino wool and silk that makes for a matte finish and colors that pop. I doubt anyone would stop me to say I need a repp tie, and after all I'm dressing for work, not a theme party.

A pair of tan wool gabardine trousers, a calfskin belt, and brown lace-ups, instead of cotton chinos, a grosgrain ribbon belt, and loafers, keeps the look office appropriate and out of the frat house. But the Ivy feel is still in tact. A blazer finishes it off--I prefer a darted blazer with a bit more structure than the natural shoulder garments of the 50's--but I think either works.

The Ivy League flavor keeps the outfit youthful and stylish, and a few tweaks remind everyone that I have actually graduated.

N.M.C.

Any Color You Want As Long As It's Blue

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 04 May 2010 02:38:00 +0000

"The classic blue dress shirt allows flexibility without the drollness of the white shirt. Best of all, the classic blue bridges the gap between formal and informal simply in the way you wear it."--Michael A. Lubarsky, AskMen.com

A blue dress shirt is a young professional's Swiss Army knife of style. And I mean traditional dress shirt blue--not french blue, not icy pale blue. If I'm ever in doubt about what to wear to the office, I start with a blue shirt and this pinpoint oxford is about as utilitarian as it gets. Pinpoint's texture keeps it from being overly formal or foppish, doesn't wrinkle like finer, lighter weight cotton weaves, but still breathes well. But safe isn't the same as stylish. So for style, I look to details and accessories.

One personal element I've added here is a spread collar--it makes the shirt slightly more formal, and being a bit unexpected on a traditional blue pinpoint oxford it adds a little originality. But nothing too bold for a young professional in a conservative office. The next question is the tie--and here's where blue pinpoint oxford really shows it's versatility.

Almost any traditional business tie, regardless of weave or material, will look fine. But a tie with just a touch of the same shade of blue adds some subtle polish to the ensemble and makes the accents in an otherwise conservative tie stand out just enough. This brown silk tie accents the blue shirt and the blue floral neats--and you can coordinate it with your belt and shoes too. But for something a little more fun and less conservative, try printed silk.

This green whimsical animal print is lively but still business appropriate, and notice it still incorporates the blue from the shirt to keep the look smart. The smooth texture of the print also contrasts nicely with the texture of the cloth. And while whimsical prints have become boardroom staples recently, I doubt I'm going to look like I'm dressing like the boss in a blue rather than white shirt To be a bit sleeker and trendy, I could wear a slimmer striped tie.

This striped Irish Poplin is trendy enough to seem current at the office, but still all business. Colorful slim trad stripes are in right now, but being three and a quarter inches wide instead of the two and a quarter inch numbers that Ryan Seacrest is wearing, it's not going to seem too cool for school or make me into the skinny tie guy. As most conservative American ties range between three and a half and four inches, it's still slimmer than what most guys would be wearing, but only subtly so. And the blue shirt, rather than white, will keep anyone from thinking I'm trying too hard to be Don Draper. If I'm going to wear a patterned sport coat, sometimes I do like a solid tie with a blue shirt--and while I don't want it to be too loud, it should contrast just enough.

I think this wine red grenadine looks nice against blue pinpoint. The texture of grenadine keeps the combination a little more interesting despite being solid on solid, and the darker hue of red keeps it from looking cartoonish. To be really understated, I could do a nice woven navy too. I do stay away from solid blue ties that are too close to the color of the shirt.

This combination seems like I'm being too cute or worse--it could seem like I'm still really into Regis circa 2000, or that I have no eye for color coordination. It makes both the color of the shirt and the color of the tie dull. Now this isn't going to draw comments or double takes, but I'm trying to be subtly stylish, not just avoid a faux pas. But that gets me back to my original point--it's hard to make a mistake with a blue dress shirt and for some that's good enough--the challenge is doing a bit more.

Plain White Dress Shirt

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 03 May 2010 12:00:00 +0000

"A crisp white dress shirt is the gray flannel pants of shirts." --Esquire

I figured I should start with the basics. A white dress shirt doesn't have to be dull or excessively formal. Instead of looking like an IRS or FBI agent, adding a white stripe and some luster with my tie give my white shirt some personality. A button down collar (especially if it rolls well--something for another post), chest pocket and placket, button cuffs, and the texture of a pinpoint oxford weave will make sure no one thinks I'm attending a state dinner. I think this ensemble is crisp and sharp, but not like I'm still on my first interview.

I could make the look more casual with a blazer and trousers, or more business (which was my preference) with a dark navy suit. To keep my youthful vibe and ensure I didn't look like I was trying to dress like the boss, I added a cotton pocket square--silk would be too flashy here--and kept the pattern fun and the fold basic.

I can dress my age and be appropriate in the office wearing a white shirt even when I have no special occasion. I find it adds some polish and perhaps a classic quality that a blue shirt wouldn't.

N.M.C.