By: Tom Walker

When Terry Posner, owner and president of Plantscapes in Seattle first heard that The Highridge Corporation was open for acquisition, he knew this was an opportunity he needed to seriously consider. Highridge has existed since 1985 as a staple in the Seattle area of premier landscape design, construction and maintenance. Plantscape’s roots go back to 1961 but officially began in 1988. They specialize in indoor and outdoor landscape maintenance and installation, seasonal color and holiday displays. The hope of bringing the strengths of these companies together was made reality on June 1st 2012.

Plantscapes purchased from the Highridge Corporation the reoccurring maintenance accounts along with the needed supporting assets. As for the name, it was reregistered as a DBA of Plantscapes Inc. With the majority of Highridge employees moving to Plantscapes with this acquisition the transition for customers has been made as smooth as possible. In addition, Plantscapes is keeping the structure the same for 90 days with an assessment at that point to determine improvements that could be made.

It should be noted that the synergies of these companies is very different. Highridge has worked in a more suburban setting with a main office in Issaquah and a yard close by whereas Plantscapes operates the majority of their business out of an urban area in Seattle with a satellite yard in Everett. This merge was made possible and efficient because Plantscapes was able to move all the administration to their office and adjust crew operation between the Seattle and Everett facilities. This has allowed them to reduce a majority of the overhead while conducting the same operation that Highridge had maintained.

As you can imagine however, bringing together two landscape companies of this magnitude is not an easy task. There are many issues that must be handled carefully and items that must be seamlessly merged. The integration of technologies, account data bases, accounting methods, and phone systems are a few examples. Many of these operational differences revolve around the two operating systems that each company used as Highridge was Macintosh based and Plantscapes is PC/Android based. This affected not only the computers each office used but the method of storing and transferring data and how managers were able to market and create bids.

The overarching goal for Highridge in switching their operating system to Mac was to have managers be completely mobile. This opened up several opportunities for the company. The Macintosh devises Highridge managers used were MacBook’s, iPads and iPhones. Macbooks would generally stay in the office and iPads would be used to write bids in the field and market projects though photos, renderings and designs. One of the main advantages of using these Mac devises was having the ability to store the majority of company documents within the free Apple storage platform called the iCloud. Documents created in the field could then be immediately uploaded and available for everyone to see.

Plantscapes uses a PC/Android based system with traditional server based data storage. They have not yet utilized the Android tablet, the iPad equivalent; however, with the new Highridge employees coming on board with Plantscapes they are testing this possibility. Time will determine which company’s estimating and marketing model and technique makes more sense. The question will be whether account managers will need to access the database and create proposals in the field or if this task can be more efficiently done in the office.

Additionally, the phone system used at Highridge was in line with their model of keeping managers completely mobile. While there was still an office administrator answering phones, these calls were forwarded directly to cell phones instead of desk phones. So whether a manager was in the office, out in the field, or at home, they could still answer.

It has not only been office operations and staff that have had to adjust. Crews have had to learn a new routine of working out of an urban landscape facility where there is less space than the landscape yard that Highridge operated out of in Issaquah. Trucks and trailers are now parked inside of two warehouses where the timing of crews leaving and returning needs to be more precise and phased to keep operations smooth.

While both companies have slightly contrasting landscape backgrounds, because of their mutual focus on maintenance the management structures of these two companies are similar. Generally, in a larger landscape company, the operating model looks something like this: At the top is a business developer who is responsible for selling and generating new accounts for the company. Signed maintenance contracts are in turn handed off to the account managers who are responsible for overseeing a set of accounts and ensuring each client is satisfied. They accomplish this by communicating necessary items to the crew foreman. Because both Highridge and Plantscapes have used variations of this structure this part of the transition has been fairly smooth.

Outside of the systems and operations of both office and field is the transfer of actual physical assets. This has been one of the most involved aspects of this merge. Plantscapes has had to assess and purchase the trucks and machinery they deemed necessary for the merged business to continue to operate. Once it was decided what should be brought over, this process involved a variety of miscellaneous items such as transferring titles, emissions tests and repairs. It also involved reworking the Plantscapes facility to accommodate the new trucks and equipment.

Without a doubt this move has been successful thus far. Management teams are working well together to retain maintenance accounts and acquire new work in the way of maintenance enhancements, residential design build contracts and larger commercial jobs. In addition, crews are learning their new surroundings and routines while still being able to work on many of the same sites they have learned to maintain. The goal of Plantscapes with this merge is to enhance the “Plantscapes” brand throughout the Puget Sound region as a trusted leader in indoor and outdoor landscape design, installation and maintenance.

2011 Green Globe Awards

King County has honored Plantscapes as a Leader in Hazardous Waste Reduction and Sustainable Business Practices with a 2011 Green Globe Award.

The text of the award reads:

“Providing services throughout Seattle for over 40 years, Plantscapes offers interior and exterior landscape management. Plantscapes works primarily with commercial properties, homeowner associations, and multi-family properties.

“They have earned the highest 5-Star certification from the EnviroStars Program by choosing the least toxic, most environmentally sensitive options available for every job, and spreading best practices through Green Gardening workshops and the Washington Association of Landscape Professionals.”

Plantscapes has long been a leader in environmentally friendly landscape practices. Our employees have adopted traffic circles – weeding, planting, and beautifying the neighborhood. They join community organizations like Master Gardeners, Master Composters, Plant Amnesty, the Association of Women in Landscaping, and Seattle Tilth. Plantscapes employees are passionate about gardening and the environment – so we are particularly proud to receive this recognition.

Congratulations to Azure Allender and Kathie Madsen who have spearheaded so many of our environmental efforts in the past year.

There's Nothing Like A Lawn

As the weather warms up, more people head outside to catch every moment of sun. In the Northwest, that means sitting on the grass during lunch, on coffee breaks – whenever you can catch a few minutes to enjoy the new flowers and the change of season. While March remains a little dreary and overcast, it is the perfect time to renew your turf.

Keeping grass lush, green and inviting isn’t that difficult – especially in the spring when rain still supplies plenty of water. There are a few essential steps, however:

(1) Aerate your turf. This simple process involves pulling plugs from the ground to break up compact soil and to allow air to circulate freely. It can be done mechanically on large areas or with manual equipment in small spaces.

(2) Fertilize. A good quality fertilizer will send roots deep into the earth – insuring that top growth is strong and thick. A rough rule of thumb says the roots of your grass should be at least as deep as the grass is tall. Which means – don’t mow the grass so that it is golf course short. One to two inch tall grass still looks neat on top of the soil, while the invisible roots hold moisture and fertilizer to keep the blades green and growing.

(3) Add lime as needed. Northwest soils tend to be more acidic – so it is generally a good idea to test the pH and add lime to your fertilizer mix. A pH of 6.5 is ideal.

(4) Thatch. Thatching can make your turf look chopped up and messy – so it is best to do it when the grass will fill back in quickly (right about now is a good time!) Thatching pulls out old, dead grass and allows room for new growth to take root and thrive.

(5) Overseed. Fill in  bare patches before weeds do – overseed with a good quality lawn seed. Use seed suited to your area and climate. In the Puget Sound area, fescues do well in shady areas and rye grass mixes do well in full sun. Rye grass is also hardy and can take a fair amount of trampling – so it is good for heavily trafficked areas. In general, bluegrass, although pretty, grows poorly in the northwest. If you use a seed mix with bluegrass seed, keep the percentage of bluegrass below 20%.

(6) Mulch flower beds. Remove your old bark mulch, where weed seeds and disease may be hiding, and add fresh mulch for the spring. It looks and smells great, and it keeps weeds from sprouting. A thick layer of mulch is one of the best investments you can make it your landscape. It will reduce labor, save water, and suppress weeds – and all you have to do is replenish it annually.

GREEN GRASS IS “GREEN,” TOO

Sometimes, when we talk to clients about turf, we get questions about the “bad” effects grass can have on the environment: fertilizer run off, wasted water, constant mowing etc. But consider – each of these problems is actually caused by poorly cared for turf. A well managed lawn enhances the environment in important ways:

• Well-cared-for lawns can significantly increase your property values.
• A healthy lawn is of utmost importance to our environment. A 50-foot by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four.
• Lawns cool the atmosphere. Eight healthy front lawns have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning, which is enough for 16 average homes.
• Grass converts carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clear the air.
• Dense, healthy grass slows water runoff, removing contaminants and trapping soil. Fresh, filtered water returns to the underground water supply.

If you haven’t yet subscribed to Plantscapes’ Spring Turf program, give your customer service rep a call.

Yum! Grow a healthy vegan meal

Organic gardening – or at least, organic fertilizer – appeals to most vegetable gardeners. In fact, one of the chief reasons for growing vegetables is to have a ready supply of healthy, natural food right outside your door.

But for the vegan (or any type of vegetarian) gardener, the ingredients in a balanced organic fertilizer may be even more of a horror than those found at the local garden center.

What’s the solution? Mix your own vegan organic fertilizer!  

It is easy and inexpensive if you buy in bulk.

Let’s look at the mixing formula first – then we can look at each component. This formula is adapted from Steve Solomon’s Complete Organic Fertilizer and from the Vegan Organic Mix recommended by The Garden Shed in the 1990′s.

VEGAN ORGANIC FERTILIZER

2 parts screened worm castings or compost
4 parts “fast” release nitrogen derived from plants (soybean meal, alfalfa meal, cottonseed meal)
1/2 part slow release phosphorus – derived from minerals (soft rock phosphate)
1 part “fast” release potassium derived from plant material (north sea kelp meal)
1/2 part “slow” release potassium dervived from minerals (greensand)
1/2 part trace minerals (crushed rock/ Rado Rock/ granite meal)

For outdoor beds, add well rotted compost to the planting area at a rate of 1 cubic foot per 10 square feet.

I try to include more than one source for each macronutrient (N-P-K). This can help balance the release times of the fertilizer and keep it working all season. Of course,”quick” and “slow” are relative terms since most organic fertilizers are not water soluable.

And here’s the beauty of organic fertilizers – we are trying to achieve a balanced mix that will feed the soil, not a chemical formula that can pass the Department of Ag inspector’s test. If you know your soil will benefit from a little more kelp and compost – add them! Building healthy soil is an ongoing process requiring observation and trial and error.

This recipe is by volume – as long as you use the same measure for each ingredient, you’ll be OK. I use it at the rate of approximately 5 lbs per 100 sqare feet – but I had to find a scale and weigh my bucket to determine that. Adding this type of fertilizer by volume (i.e., this pail size for this bed) rather than by weight is perfectly safe.

INGREDIENTS

Start with Nitrogen. Nitrogen is essential for leafy, green growth. It is also one of the most soluable fertilizer components. In organic fertilizers, nitrogen is introduced either through decomposing plant material (like alfalfa meal) or through a slaughterhouse by-product like blood meal.

You already know we’ll pass on the bloodmeal, so which plant source is best? I like to use alfalfa meal, if I can find a trusted source.  (Down To Earth from Eugene, Oregon sells a high quality alfalfa meal.) Don’t use the alfalfa sold as rabbit pellets. It has probably been sprayed with chemical pesticides. By the same token, also be wary of alfalfa meal sold as a rose fertilizer. Rose growers are not necessarily organic growers. 

Alfalfa has many benefits besides its nitrogen content. Earthworms are attracted to it – and there are few gardeners as talented as earthworms when it comes to building healthy soil. Alfalfa is also an excellent bio-activator for compost.

Soy meal is another high quality source of nitrogen. You can combine alfalfa meal and soybean meal to give variety to your nutrients.

Cottonseed meal has lately fallen out of favor with organic growers since cotton is so heavily sprayed with pesticides. According to most experts, the pesticides themselves are mainly trapped in the cottonseed oil, rather than the meal, so cottonseed meal should be safe for use in organic gardens. However, organic growers have been registering their displeasure at the level of pesticide use by avoiding cottonseed meal.

There aren’t many non-animal sources of Phosphorous. Once we drop bonemeal and fishmeal from the list, we are prettyt much limited to rock phosphate. Rock Phosphate can be an excellent fertilizer, and it should be worked into the soil of every garden. However, be aware that it may take several seasons to break down completely. If you can mix Hard Rock Phosphate and Soft Rock Phosphate together, you may have a more balanced fertilizer. Talk to your supplier about the source of the rock phosphate. It may be contaminated with other mining waste you want to avoid.

Potassium (or potash) can be readily found in both slow mineral and fast release plant form.

The #1 source for potash is nature’s miracle plant – kelp. Don’t skimp on the kelp meal. It is not always necessary to buy the highest quality, most expensive, North Sea Kelp Meal – but you do want your kelp to come from a known source.

Your retailer should know something about the origin of the product. Try not to buy kelp that comes from endangered kelp beds. Stay away from kelp that was harvested from harbors and shipping lanes: it is likely to be contaminated with diesel, at a minimum.

If you can’t afford Norwegian Kelp Meal, look for a good quality Asian Kelp Meal. You might find it for half the price of the Norwegian Kelp – with no noticeable compromise in results.

Kelp Meal is going to give your plants a ready source of potassium, for general, robust health. It also supplies abundant micronutrients and minerals for the microbial life in your soil. Without a doubt, a generous helping of kelp is one of the best things you can add to your soil.

For a slow release potassium – and slow in this case means years – try greensand. This seabed mineral not only supplies potash and micronutrients, it helps break up compaction in heavy clay soil and it absorbs moisture, reducing the need to water.

You may or may not have to add lime to your soil. This can vary from plot to plot in the same garden – and can certainly vary with the different requirements of different plants. You can test your soil pH with an inexpensive kit before adding lime.

Your final ingredient is rock dust. Most people don’t think of rocks as fertilizer – but they are the best source of minerals for organic gardens. Of course, you can’t just toss in some stones and call it good. You want finely ground – in fact, ground to dust – rock with a high mineral content. Granite dust is good. Glacial rock dust is excellent. As always – be responsible with your sourcing. Do not damage the natural environment to improve your own little plot of land.

That’s it. All these ingredients (with the debateable exception of worm castings,  which you can skip) are animal-by- product-free fertilizers and minerals, acceptable to vegetarians of every stripe. Each adds something unique to the soil structure. Microbes, worms, and other life in your soil – in addition to your plants – will all take something from the soil amendments. Mix it all together in a wheelbarrow and fork it into the top 6 inches of soil. Add compost. Water with a liquid kelp or a compost tea at least once a month.

Do this every season and you will have noticably tastier, nutrient rich vegetables, high in vitamins and minerals, as well as healthy soil.

Photograph by Fuzzcat Photo released under Creative Commons License

Holiday Poinsettia Mix

You know it is really the holiday season when you begin to see poinsettias on every counter and tabletop. Few flowers say “Christmas” the way a poinsettia does. In fact, the flowers’ appearance brings so much cheer, many people want to keep them blooming long passed the holiday season.

And maybe you can.

First, if you want to extend the life of your points, it is best to live in Mexico or Southern California. Poinsettias thrive there, year round, growing as small shrubs and trees. If you live anywhere else, be sure to protect your plants from cold, drafts, winds and rain. Night time temperatures below 50 degrees Farenheit are chilly enough to kill a poinsettia.

So, if you are a Northwesterner, keep your plants indoors, well away from drafty hallways or heating vents.

Be sure to remove the plastic or paper sleeves that are used to protect plants during transport. The sleeves can restrict air flow, causing the stems to slump. If you want a nice, bushy plant, keep the air flowing around the pot.

Leaves begin to drop

Never let the soil dry out. For many plants, drying and re-wetting is fine – but not for the poinsettia. Wilting plants rarely recover fully. If you buy your points from Plantscapes, you can have a wetting agent added to the soil, which will help keep the soil evenly moist, extending the life of the plant. But note – “evenly moist” is not water-logged. Never over water poinsettias. And take care with saucers underneath the pots or inside the foil “hat.” Poinsettias hate wet feet. You’ll notice the water damage immediately – but you won’t be able to cure it so easily.

In their native climate, poinsettia are perennial plants that can bloom for many years. Of course, the “blooms,” or bracts, are actually leaves that change color with a change in day length. Getting a poinsettia to bloom for a second year outside of California is quite a difficult feat. Just getting the plant to survive from one season to the next is an accomplishment. Most poinsettia lovers agree, it is better to treat the plants as annuals – looking forward to their appearance in late November and enjoying them until January. As the leaves drop and the once compact plant grows spindly and bare, it is time to harden your heart – and begin looking forward to next year’s crop.

BONUS FUN FACT ABOUT POINSETTIA CULTIVATION FROM WIKIPEDIA

“Until the 1990s, the Ecke family of Encinitas, California, had a virtual monopoly on poinsettias owing to a technological secret that made it difficult for others to compete. The Ecke family’s key to producing more desirable poinsettias was to create a fuller, more compact plant, by grafting two varieties of poinsettia together. A poinsettia left to grow on its own will naturally take an open, somewhat weedy look. The Eckes’ technique made it possible to get every seedling to branch, resulting in a bushier plant.

“Albert Ecke had emigrated from Germany to Los Angeles in 1900, opening a dairy and orchard in the Eagle Rock area. He became intrigued by the plant and sold them from street stands. His son, Paul Ecke, developed the grafting technique, but it was the third generation of Eckes, Paul Ecke, Jr., that really was responsible for advancing the association between the plant and the winter holidays. Besides changing the market from mature plants shipped by rail to cuttings sent by air, he sent free plants to television stations for them to display on air from Thanksgiving to Christmas. He also appeared on television programs like The Tonight Show and Bob Hope’s Christmas specials to promote the plants.

“However, in the 1990s, a university researcher discovered the method and published it, opening the door for competitors to flourish, particularly in Latin America where the cost of labor is far lower. The Ecke family, now led by Paul Ecke III, no longer grows any on farms in the U.S., but as of 2008, they still control about 70% of the domestic market and 50% of the worldwide market.”

–http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euphorbia_pulcherrima

Photograph by bobistraveling Photo released under Creative Commons License

Photograph by Bare Dreamer Photo released under Creative Commons License

Raised Beds Are Great for Flower Borders

Many gardeners think of raised beds as the answer to the problem of growing vegetables in poor soil.

While raised beds can certainly make excellent vegetable beds, they need not be used exclusively for either vegetables nor in poor soil. Raised beds are a great way to grow everything.

Hands down, the absolute number one advantage of raised beds is uncompacted soil. A well planned and well-maintained raised bed will never be walked upon. The soil remains light and fluffy, allowing the roots to grow deep into the earth.

When you think about raised beds this way, you may see that the idea of building a frame and then just dumping new soil on top of old, worn out,  compacted, poor soil is really more of a recipe for a one season quick fix than a permanent new garden.

HEALTHY SOIL = HEALTHY PLANTS

Organic gardeners have a second secret they employ along with raised beds: double digging.

In a true double dig, the soil is loosened to a depth greater than 12″. The gardener first digs a trench a spade-head deep (approximately 12 inches) the entire length of the bed. The soil is removed and placed in a wheelbarrow or similar storage container. The gardener then works the trench with a digging fork, loosening and aerating the soil for another 12 inches. (Be sure to check for buried electrical cables before doing this!)

When the first trench is complete, dig a second trench right next to it. Fill in the first trench with the soil you remove from the second. Continue in this way until the entire bed has had the top 12 inches of soil turned and the second 12 inches loosened.

As you might imagine, this can be back breaking work, especially if you begin by removing sod. 

However, putting light soil on top of compact, heavy soil is not too different than putting your new garden beds directly over concrete. It is very difficult for water, fertilizer, and roots to penetrate heavy, compact soil.

Fortunately for those of us without strong backs, there is a middle ground. You need not do a full double dig to prepare your raised bed.  Even a short course of turning and improving the soil will yield improved results. Use a spade and garden fork to turn the soil and mix compost into the top three inches of the original soil. Wiggle your digging fork around to aerate and loosen the soil.

Once you’ve loosened the soil, build your frame(s) and add the new soil.

Be sure that you can reach to the center of the bed from either side. You never want to actually step into the bed or onto the soil once the garden is started. Leave garden paths between and around the beds. If your paths are grassy, be sure they are wide enough for a mower.

Photograph by psd Photo released under Creative Commons License

Plantscapes in having a pot and container sale on Thursday, May 6.

The sale will be going on all day in the Plantscapes South Warehouse.

Old containers, unused containers, pots returned from rentals and leases – all will be on sale at significant savings.

First come – first served!

This is a great opportunity to pick up large, hard to find pottery for your home or garden.

COD – cash only. All sales are final.

(Picture does not show the actual pots on sale)

Address: 1127 Poplar Place South, Seattle, WA 98144
Business Hours: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Phone: (206) 623-7100

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A balanced, multi-purpose fertilizer

Every gardener has seen the three big numbers on the front of a fertilizer bag or box.

Most know what the numbers stand for (in order): Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium, also known as N-P-K.

These ingredients are always listed in this same order.

The higher the number, the higher the water-soluble percentage of that ingredient in the fertilizer. For instance, Sulphate of Ammonia, rated at 21-0-0, is 21% soluble nitrogen. It contains no potassium or phosphorus.  On the other hand, something like SuperPhosphate, rated at 0-20-0 contains 20% phosphorus but no nitrogen or potassium.

Why should we care specifically about these three elements over all others? What exactly do they do?

• Nitrogen promotes green growth above the soil.
• Phosphorus promotes flowering, blooming, and root growth
• Potassium promotes general vigor with compact, robust growth.

These attributes are sometimes learned by the memory aid, “Up, Down, All-Around.”

DON’T GARDEN BY THE NUMBERS

So do higher numbers equal better fertilizers?

No!

Healthy plants grow in healthy soil.

Fertilizer Burn

Soil amendments and fertilizers certainly play a role – sometimes the crucial role – in promoting plant growth. But highly soluble, super-concentrated ferilizers can actually harm plants, the soil, soil microbes, and the environment.

Fast release nitrogen can burn seedlings. You’ve probably seen plants with brown edges on their leaves. That can be a sign of fertilizer burn.

Further, highly soluable fertilizers wash through the soil quickly, leaving little or no nutrients behind for continued growth.

And finally, high concentrations of phosphorus run-off can pollute water and kill fish.

FERTILIZE TO MEET PLANT NEEDS

While N-P-K gets all the glory on the label, other ingredients, such as minerals and trace elements are just as important to the health of your plants. Use the Big Three numbers on the front of the bag as a guide.

Then turn the bag or box over and look at the rest of the ingredients. A long list of nothing but unpronouncable chemicals is unlikely to promote a healthy environment. On the other hand, trace minerals and other insoluble elements will bind with the organic matter in your soil. They are unlikely to wash out as quickly, and so may slowly release nutrients to your plants throughout the growing season.

FEED THE WHOLE GARDEN, NOT JUST THE PLANTS

Nature's Perfect Gardeners

Soil rich in organic matter will also be rich in life – most clearly illustrated by the presence of earthworms. Burning, quick release fertilizers kill worms, leaving you with dead soil that demands constant re-fertilization. Compost and minerals, in contrast, provide food for the worms, who turn it into one of nature’s richest fertilizers: worm castings.

Organic fertilizers tend to have “lower numbers” than chemical fertilizers, in part because organics are less water soluble. And yet, that very fact gives them an edge in promoting sturdy, compact plants with deep roots – plants more able to resist insects and disease.

GOING ORGANIC

Do you have to be 100% organic to have a healthy garden? No, of course not.

But you’ll find that shifting your focus to organics will, over time, build healthier soil. As your soil improves, your plants will improve. You’ll be less tempted to reach for pesticides, and the beneficial insect population will be able to do its part in keeping insect damage down.

A Quiet Push Mower

You might not expect it – but lawns are rife with controversy.

For many, mowing the lawn is a tedious chore. For others, the smell of freshly cut grass is the very essence of summer.

Some people think watering the lawn is a waste of a precious resource. Others can’t image allowing their lush, green turf to go dormant and brown.

Some homeowners douse the grass with weed and feed and keep the blades of grass golf course short. Others swear by slow release organic fertilizers and won’t consider a cut shorter than three inches.

TAKE THE GRASS POP QUIZ

1. True or false – lawns are so suburban; xeriscapes are hip and urban.
2. What looks better – bluegrass or rye grass?

Did you think there would be a correct answer? Sorry.

Aside from the generally accepted belief that grass is green, almost anything you say about lawns will engender a passionate argument from someone.

LAWN LOVERS TAKE HEART

Whatever your outlook, here are a few facts about lawns that may surprise you:

Barefoot In the Grass

• A well-cared-for lawns can significantly increase property values.
• A 50-foot by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four
• Lawns cool the atmosphere.
• Eight healthy front lawns have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning, which is enough for 16 average homes.
• Grass converts carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clear the air.
• Dense, healthy grass slows water runoff, removing contaminants, returning fresh, filtered water to the underground water supply

GREEN AND CLEAN

An organically maintained lawn is one of the best ways to care for the environment! You’ll trap greenhouse gases, remove contaminants from the water supply, and lower electricity consumption in the summer.

Here’s the secret to a healthy lawn: rich soil.

Really, there is no mystery to what keeps a lawn green – deep roots in soil rich in organic matter will produce healthy plants, whether those plants are thousands of blades of grass, a few tomato plants, or a dozen rose bushes.

Smothering your lawn in weed and feed kills the micro-organisms that build healthy soil. Dead, compact soil – without worms or other beneficial insects – must be forced, over and over, to push up new growth. The grass in such a lawn is always fragile and in danger of damage from rough use or disease.

A Young Girl Plays In A Field Of Grass

But a rich, aerated soil allows the roots to penetrate deeply.

The grass can take up nutrients slowly as minerals and organic matter break down. The soil holds water. The healthy top growth mirrors the vibrant life below the soil surface.

Healthy lawns invite us to kick off our shoes and walk barefoot through the grass. Kids can play, adults can just sit in the sun (or shade) and enjoy the day.

FIVE RULES FOR AN ORGANIC LAWN

1. The first rule of organic lawn care is the world is not divided into grass and weeds. Diversity is healthy. Monocultures are fragile. For instance, clover can be very beneficial when mixed with lawn seed. Clover returns nitrogen to the soil, and it can keep your lawn looking green and lush with minimal care. So don’t reach for the weed killer at the first hint of “weeds” in your grass.

2. The second rule is: pull the dandelions, don’t poison them. Dandelions are so persistent because their tap roots grow deep into the sub soil. If you dig the roots, instead of destroying the top growth, you’ll not only eventually get rid of your dandelions, you’ll aerate your soil.

3. The third rule of organics is the golden rule: add compost. Return nutrients and organic matter back to the soil. If you have a mulching mower, leave the grass clipping on the lawn to decompose. If you rake the clippings up, compost them and then spread the compost in the fall and spring.

4. The fourth rule is feed the roots, not just the tops. Don’t dump pounds and pounds of high nitrogen fertilizer on your grass. Yes, it may make it look greener, but it is a short-lived pleasure. The short top growth of a manicured lawn is mirrored below the soil, where the roots are shallow and thin. Use slow release minerals, like rock dust, greensand, bone meal, granite dust, and rock phosphate to feed the roots.  These minerals will last many seasons, building strong roots and healthy soil. Look for slow release, organic sources of nitrogen as well. If you need some instant gratification, an organic tea can do wonders for a lawn in need of a quick pick me up.

5. The fifth rule of organic lawn care is water deeply. Turning on your sprinklers for 15 minutes every day just wastes water. The water thrown into the air will evaporate more quickly.  The water on the ground will not have a chance to penetrate and may drift onto sidewalks and gutters. Instead, water early in the morning. Use low rise sprinklers. Monitor run off. Adjust your watering schedule according to the season. Use enough water to penetrate about 6 inches deep into the soil – but don’t water so much that the soil turns muddy and soft.

Barefoot in the Grass by saragoldsmith Photo released under Creative Commons License
Girl in Grass Field by Bill Liao Released under Creative Commons License

You’ll soon see Plantscapes’ crews at work, aerating, reseeding, and fertilizing the grass around Puget Sound. (If you’d like a bid for your property, just contact Landscape Division Manager John Higgen at 206-623-7100)

However, many people do not realize that your home’s lawn will benefit from the same treatment – and you don’t need heavy equipment to do it.

As grass gets walked on, the soil underneath becomes compact. This makes it more difficult for the roots to take up nutrients and for water to soak deeply into the soil. Instead of burrowing down deeply, the grass’ roots stay shallow. Water runs off or evaporates.

Grass in this condition is more easily damaged and is more susceptible to disease. Fortunately, anyone can renovate their lawn over the course of a weekend.

A tool like this pulls plugs and aerates the lawn

You can buy a small, manual aerator for smaller lawns or rent a larger aerator for larger area.

The aerator will pull plugs from the soil, breaking up the compact, dense mass. You can leave the plugs on top of the lawn, where they will decompose and add organic matter back to your topsoil.

When the grass has been aerated, apply a good, organic fertilizer. You want to encourage root growth in the spring, so you don’t need a fertilizer high in nitrogen. Look for a well-balanced mix. If you have acidic soil (most people in Puget Sound do), add lime as well.

Overseed bare or thin patches with a good quality grass seed. Remeber, rye grass varieties do well in full sun. Fescues are better suited to shade. If your lawn doubles as a play area for kids, make sure your seed mix has grass that can stand up to foot traffic (i.e., more rye grass, less bluegrass).

Finally, add a topdressing of compost to your lawn to build the organic matter. Don’t lay this on so thickly that it smothers the grass. And do make sure that it is well rotted compost – you don’t want to burn tender shoots with a hot chicken manure!

If you follow this routine every spring and fall, you’ll have a lush green lawn that is thicker, requires less water, is resistant to disease – and yet requires less frequent mowing and watering.

They key is to always encourage strong root growth rather than to force weak top growth.