Plate Fodder

Put a Spoon in it...

2012-02-20T15:59:00.003-05:00

Ideally, there would have been a post for this:
I found the recipe in some page-shredded, coverless magazine while I've been sitting around waiting on Jane's medical results. The fact that every other recipe in the periodical had been lifted - save this one - really should have been a tell.

Lemon Cornmeal Cake

Conceptually it was nice:
Yellow Cornmeal, Meyer Lemon with a tangy lemon~honey glaze. I thought it would be the next incarnation of "All that Lemony Goodness"
And...
To be honest, it was quite stunning when it came out of the oven....

However...
For all intents and purposes, it's lemon flavored Jiffy Cornbread. Deflated, I put the cake cover on it and ignored it.

(In care you're not savvy
to Jiffy... here it is)

And I was going to boast about my Nora

Mills Yellow Cornmeal, and everything...

So, with the outlook that every disaster is an opportunity in disguise, I drug the cake back out today and went looking for inspiration.

What I came up with was Spoon Bread... ... ... ... .. . . . . . . . . . .
Granted, Southern Spoon Bread is typically (well, in my family) savory. But what the hell. I've got 2 cups of unusable cornmeal and a half cup of laboriously squeezed Meyer Lemon Juice already in there - I can't make it any worse.

It turned out, well... outstanding. It's a light, pudding-ish, spoon bready kind of thing. I danced around the kitchen, ate 3 big bowls of it, and wrenched my elbow patting myself on the back repeatedly.
Unfortunately, that little bit of genius only created another problem - how am I ever going to make this again?

After a couple of trial and errors - It turns out that Jiffy Cornbread Mix IS the perfect substitute. And on the upside, this give you something to do with the 33 cent box o' Jiffy your spouse brought home when you asked them you get you some cornmeal.
So - the below recipe is a blending of the original cornmeal cake and the new and improved Lemon Spoon Bread

Plate Fodder
Lemon Spoon Bread
(a pudding, of sorts)
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
1 Box Jiffy Cornmeal Mix
1/3 Cup Lemon Juice
2 Eggs
2 Cups Milk
1/2 Cup Water
1/4 Teaspoon Nutmeg
1/4 Cup Powdered Sugar
1/4 Cup Honey
2 Teaspoons Lemon Zest
2 Teaspoons Baking Powder
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1/2 Teaspoon Baking Soda
1/4 Cup Butter (or Substitute)
1 - 8x8x2 Pyrex Baking Dish
Cooking Spray
Large Sauce Pan
Spatula

Preheat the oven to 350
Make the Jiffy according to the box (essentially, add water and bake)
Crumble up the Jiffy in the sauce pan with the milk, water and nutmeg
Bring to a boil and continue to cook until its thick like porridge
Set aside and allow to cool slightly
Add all the remaining ingredients, except the eggs at this point, and mix through
Add the 2 eggs and beat well
Spray the Dish with cooking spray and pour the batter in to the dish
Bake at 350 for 45 minutes on the middle rack of the oven
Remove and serve immediately

All That Lemony Goodness - Numero Otto (that's 8)

2012-02-19T18:22:00.000-05:00

Tuscan Lemon Chicken and Cookbook Sundays

This post is part of Couscous and Consciousness's Cookbook Sundays Project.

What you say?
Pf cooking from a cookbook?
Unadorned?

Well, it's true. I know I don't normally play the "cook someone else's food" game. I don't usually play well with others... I'm the run with scissors kind of guy. Cookbooks to me are an inspiration... or food porn... or just a good giggle, sometimes. I'll read them through, and start making changes straight away.
but..
with something over 3,000 cookbooks in the shelves (and some I've never even opened), I thought.. why the hell not. Some of these should start getting some use before the pages all stick together...

The Tuscan Lemon Chicken recipe is from the Barefoot Contessa's Back to Basics cookbook. I haven't monkeyed around with it - honestly there isn't any need. It's lemony (and you know I adore lemon), and the right amount of herbiness, and its stupid simple to boot. So this even fits in our Simple Dinner Sunday category. I have added a side dish to the recipe, but don't worry - it's just as easy as pie as the chicken

Tuscan Lemon Chicken
from The Barefoot Contessa "Back to Basics"
2008 Clarkson/Potter
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 Whole Chicken (the market I use had sexy little 2 pounder birds this week, so I've used it instead of the 3.5 lb, in the published recipe)
1 Teaspoon Kosher Salt
1/3 Cup Good Olive Oil
2 Teaspoons Lemon Zest (The zest and juice I've used are from Meyer Lemons, because they are what I had on hand. They are plenty lemony for the recipe)
1/3 Cup Freshly Squeezed Lemon Juice
1 Tablespoon Minced Garlic
1 Tablespoon Minced Rosemary
Freshly Ground Black Pepper
1 Lemon, Halved
10" Pyrex pie plate or other non reactive, heat proof dish

Ina gives odd directions for removing the backbone, I wont repeat them. (However, go HERE and read up on spatch-cocking to remove the backbone and breast plate)

With the prepared bird, sprinkle each side with the teaspoon of salt - set aside
Combine the oil, garlic, rosemary, pepper, juice and zest in a small bowl
Place the chicken in the dish and cover with the marinade
Cover with plastic wrap and marinate for a minimum of 4 hours (up to 8 hours)
when the marinating time is up, pour off the liquid and reserve (we'll be using it for the side dish)
When ready to prepare (I've used a gas grill for convenience), place the chicken skin side up on a preheated grill on the low setting
Place the pan you used to season the chicken on top of the bird and cook for 12 to 15 minutes (or until the chicken is golden brown - it took 17 minutes on my grill)
Place the lemon halves on the grill
Turn the chicken over and replace the pan - cook for another 12 to 15 minutes, or until the skin is golden brown
Remove, cut into quarters and serve with the grilled lemons... and the potatoes...

Tuscan Lemon Potatoes
Serves 4
Ingredients
4 to 5 Red Skinned Potatoes - Quartered
The Reserved Chicken Marinade
Pyrex Baking Dish
Small Sauce Pan

Preheat the oven to 350
Bring the marinade to a boil in the sauce pan
Toss the potato wedges in the chicken marinade and place in the baking dish
Bake at 350 for 45 minutes
Remove and re-toss in the drippings and serve up on a platter with the chicken

The Sandwich Diaries - " Stella!!! ..."

2012-02-17T16:03:00.000-05:00

Sheesh!, What a wuss... and all I keep thinking is,
isn't he wearing just a tad too much jewelry?

I can say that because I've never really felt about anyone or anything that strongly. Oh don't get me wrong, I've been in the "I'll do whatever it takes, fight anyone I have to, break any law to keep you" relationship before, but when push came to shove - "off you go and thanks for playing our game" ... eh, it's just way more work than I want to invest in.

You're wondering what all this has to do with today's recipe.. aren't ya..

here's a clue...

I inherited a several bottles of Stella Artois after the beach wedding. I'm not a huge beer drinker, so they've just sort of languished off by themselves in the pantry for the past couple of months waiting on a baked bean recipe to materialize. I never really got in the mood for beans. But, I did get the hankering for some slow cooked pulled pork sammiches. So I dusted off my trusty mini slow cooker...

I call her Stella, too...

and got to work. As I actually like to taste the pork, I've opted for a less cloyingly sweet version. It's just the right balance of heat, sweet, spice, and porky goodness.

Slow Cooked
"Stella"
Pulled Pork Sammies
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
2 Pounds Boneless Pork Shoulder - Cut into 2" cubes
2 Bottles Stella Artois - or other good pilsner
4 Cloves Garlic - Mashed
1/2 Cup Crystalline Jaggery (crystallized molasses or 1/4 cup dark brown sugar)
1 Tablespoon Cumin
1 Teaspoon Chili Powder
1 Teaspoon Black Pepper
1 Teaspoon Salt
1 Tablespoon Hoisin Sauce
1/4 Cup Ketchup
1/2 Teaspoon Chili Flakes
1/4 Teaspoon Liquid Smoke (optional)
4 Crusty Sandwich Buns
1 Recipe Quick Pickle - (See Below)
Mayonnaise
A Trusty Slow Cooker
Medium Sauce Pan
Skimmer
2 Forks

Place everything into the crock pot and cook on high for 5 hours
Drain the liquid and reserve
With the forks, pull apart and shred the cooked pork cubes in the crock pot
Turn the heat to low and cover
With the reserved juices, skim off the grease and transfer the liquid to the sauce pan
Simmer over medium heat until reduced by 1/2
Transfer back to the crock pot and stir well to combine with the shredded pork
Split and toast the sandwich buns
Spread a little mayo on the bottom slice to prevent it from becoming overly soggy
Top with the pulled pork and several pickle slices

Plate Fodder Quick Pickle
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 - 6 to 8" Cucumber - Sliced Very Thin
1/2 Jalapeno Pepper - Seeded and sliced thin
2 Tablespoons Sugar
2 Teaspoons Salt
1/4 Cup Rice Vinegar
1/4 Teaspoon Celery Seeds
Small Sauce Pan

Heat the vinegar, sugar, salt and seeds over medium heat and bring to just a boil
Remove and chill completely
Add the cucumber / pepper slices and marinate in the fridge for 30 minutes

Chickety China the Chinese Chicken

2012-02-12T22:13:00.001-05:00

Duck in the Hen House
Chicken in the Duck Pond
Duck Fried Chicken
Crispy Fragrant Duck (Made with Chicken)

Crispy Fragrant Duck is quite possibly my second favorite Asian thing that I usually wont make myself, for several reasons - none of which is I'm lazy..

With the price of duck these days, I just can't wrap my head of spending $22.00 for a carcass and frying the crap out of it. In my mind, it's too much like buying a whole tenderloin and making chicken-fried steak out of it.
So, I am attempting to kinda, sorta recreate the crispiness and depth of flavor you get with duck in a $3.95 small chicken fryer

Crispy Fragrant chicken with PF Hoisin Sauce

First, a couple of disclaimers:

Fair warning, this is going to be terribly time consuming - so plan on three days.
I've based this recipe on 4 different preparations, and made my own corrections and alterations, so no one recipe gets a particular nod one way or another.
While the end result is a rather tasty Asian-ish delight, I in no way mean to lessen the opulence and succulence of the original dish. It is, in short, divine.

Right then,
First, the list of players:

1 Small Fryer - 3 to 4 pound
1 Tablespoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Dried Tepin Chilis - or other Small Medium Hot Chili
2 Cloves
2 Tablespoons Chinese 5 Spice Powder, plus an additional 2 Tablespoons for Brining
1/4 Cup White Wine
1/4 Cup Candied Ginger
2 Cups Chicken Stock
4 Scallions - Whole, cut into thirds
Slurry:
4 Tablespoons Tapioca Starch
1 Tablespoon Powdered Ginger
1 Teaspoon Black Pepper
3 Tablespoons Water
2 Teaspoons Rice Vinegar
1 Tablespoon Light Soy Sauce
Canola Oil for Frying
Other:
Plate Fodder Hoisin Sauce - Recipe Follows
Large Wok with Steaming Tray
Flat Strainer
Ladle
2 Gallon Zipper Bags
1 - 10" Pie Plate
Heavy Duty Knife or Cleaver
Twine
Mortar and Pestle
Medium Sauce Pan
Cutting Board
- If you're keeping count in relation to traditional spice mixes, you'll undoubtedly notice a lack of Star Anise - except as it appears in the 5 spice mix. With chicken being more delicate that duck, I felt we could dispense with some of the heavier notes and concentrate more on a lighter, decidedly ginger profile.

Day 1
Place the stock, 2 tablespoons of 5 spice, 1 tablespoon of the candied ginger, and 1/2 the tepin peppers in the sauce pan and bring to a boil
Remove and chill to cool completely

Place the bird into a zipper bag with the prepared and chilled Brining liquid.
Refrigerate for 1 day - turn the bag over at least twice during the brine.
- I've added a Brining stage to the process to intensify the chicken flavor. Unlike duck, which is mostly dark, dense, heavily flavored muscle, chicken is particularly light in comparison. In order to compete with the aggressive spices, I felt the chicken would need a boost.

Day 2
Place the Cloves, Remaining 5 Spice, Peppers, Salt into the mortar and grind until finely powdered
Remove the chicken from the brine bag and discard the liquid
Dry the cavity and skin of any excess liquid

Place the bird breast down on the board. With your knife, cut off the wings at the drummette joint.
Trim off any excess fat and slide it under the breast skin to add a little extra fat to the meat
Since we're going to make this "look" a little more like duck, Place you hands over the lower "hip" area. Squeezing the cavity - press down onto the cutting board to break the hip bones so the carcass thins out
With the twine, truss the legs and the wing drummettes

Place 1/2 of the powder inside the cavity and rub well to coat, Massage the rest of the spice mix into the skin, making sure everything is well coated
Place the seasoned bird into the second zipper bag and refrigerate for 2 days - turn the bag over at least two times per day
- Typically duck is marinated at room temperature for a day.... being chicken, I just felt that wasn't all that wise.

Day 3
Take the marinade out of the fridge and let the bird come to room temp. Massage the wine inside the cavity and into the skin

Place 1/2 of the candied ginger and inside the cavity and lay the rest on the top of the bird
Fill the wok to 1" of the steam rack and place the pie plate with the chicken on the rack
Cover the wok and steam the chicken for 1 hour
When the hour is up, carefully remove the pie plate and pour off any collected liquid (Save this stock for soups later)

Refill the water level, replace the plate and steam another 30 minutes
Carefully (the meat will be extremely tender at this point) transfer the chicken to a rack and air dry for 2
to 3 hours, until the skin is dry to the touch and no longer tacky

Mix together the slurry and set aside
Place the carcass on the cutting board, remove the trusses, and cut the bird in half, lengthwise.
With your knife, remove the back bone
Rice and thoroughly dry the wok, fill with about 3" of oil and heat to 375

While the oil is heating, coat the halves generously with the slurry - massaging it into the inner cavity and skin
With the strainer, carefully place the half bird into the oil skin side up
With the ladle, immediately begin bathing the skin in the oil - do this for 2 minutes
Carefully (again) turn the bird over and bath with oil for another 5 minutes
Transfer to paper towels to drain and repeat with the other half
Cut each half into 4 pieces across the section
Serve on a platter with Hoisin Sauce and buns
- Since we've Americanized this a bit - I've used pretzel rolls

Plate Fodder Hoisin Sauce
Makes 1/2 Cup
Ingredients

5 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
2 Teaspoons Fermented Black Beans
1 Tablespoon Honey
1/4 Cup Diced Prunes (Sunsweet Plum Amazins come already diced)
2 Teaspoons Rice Vinegar
1/8 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
2 Teaspoons Sesame Oil
1/4 Teaspoon Black Pepper

Small Sauce Pan

Food Processor

Place all the ingredients in the sauce pan and bring to a boil
Transfer to the processor and pulse until smooth

Wash, Rinse... repeat...

2012-02-11T17:03:00.000-05:00

You know, one might think that since I only post once every week... or so - that I only cook when I post. Eh, that just isn't true. I cook every day... sometimes twice... and if I'm feeling particularly generous... all three meals. I just don't always write about it. Because...

How many times can I tell you about a pot roast?
Can I really make chicken salad from canned chicken sound appetizing?
Do you really want to read about packaged smoked sausage and steamed cabbage?
Does anyone really care that I made a slammin' tossed salad or whipped up some sauteed apples for this morning's waffles?
Can I get away with telling you about fried corn, mixed greens and pot likker for the third time?

Probably not.

But cooking every day does do one thing (other than keeping your mad knife skills sharp) it produces a boat load of leftovers... Jane doesn't eat leftovers. And besides, I've used up all my nifty little small portion containers... and I'm going to need them.

Since this next week I'll be doing the Chickity China Chinese Chicken (chicken masquerading as Crispy Fragrant Duck), a whole heap of posts dealing with chicken livers, and a granny-slapping panned trout with capers... I have to make some room in the fridge.

When faced with an insurmountable tower of micro portions of a lot of different foods - I lean towards soup.

My family has always made Refrigerator Soup as a way of getting rid of all those minuscule amounts of food that you just couldn't bring yourself to throw out.

What went into the pot was:

2 slices of pot roast and 1/4 cup roasted turnips and potatoes
2 - 2" pieces of smoked sausage and some overly saturated cabbage
1 cup of really slammin'' tossed salad
1/3 of a red bell pepper that had begun to get wilty
a forgotten half of an onion - it had to be dissected...
Half an avocado
1 28 Ounce can of diced tomatoes
Left over fried corn - about 1/4 cup
some pot likker..and a couple of greens
1/5 head of napa cabbage - mostly the core
1/2 a box of chicken stock - leftover from the Chicken brining
A broiled tomato
2 cloves of roasted garlic - left over from god-knows-when
3 Cups Water
1 Teaspoon Thyme
1/2 Teaspoon (or so) wilty oregano
2 Tablespoons of mixed Worcestershire sauce and ketchup from the pot roast baste
And, a bay leaf

Voila!

Refrigerator Soup!

I promise, this week is something worth checking back for...

The Duck / Chicken thing is going to be incredible! And the chicken livers? It ain't gonna be chopped liver- that's for sure.. well okay, one chopped liver - but the rest is going to be amazing.

Perfecting the Perfect - Chicken Vesuvio

2012-02-06T15:09:00.005-05:00

I can't always tell you how I get to the initial inspiration (as it were) for a recipe - it's either something I read; something I remembered from my childhood; a bit of oral history from my family; a dish some guy was cooking in a movie - that part doesn't really matter. I keep a list of things I want to amp up and muddle through them when the mood strikes.

I usually spend a lot of time in research reworking a recipe before it makes it way here.

I'll hit the cookbook graveyard and find every possible variation

I make a lot of notes

I do a couple of dry runs

When it came to Chicken Vesuvio it appears it's pretty much the same as meatloaf - everyone has their own recipe. From whole chickens to exclusively legs, emptying the pantry of every imaginable dried bean and pea to a complete lack of any legume, citrus / no citrus / heavy salt / uber spice / painfully bland... The only thing any of them truly have in common is chicken and potatoes.... So we'll begin there..

You will note that there is no added salt in the recipe. The stock I use is low sodium and the artichokes are packed in only citric acid and water. This brings down the sodium load to something just under 500 mg per serving. You honestly don't miss the salt, and the bit of tang from the hearts adds a nice note to the mix. If you wanted to use frozen artichoke hearts instead (they aren't readily available here) Add 2 tablespoons of rice vinegar to the liquid addition.

The complete recipe is available after the show and tell.

Chicken thighs, Italian sausage, Garlic cloves,
Thyme, Oregano, Potatoes, Peas and Artichokes

You'll need four chicken breasts - bone in - skin on

Pat them dry and place them in a screaming hot skillet with a tablespoon of olive oil,

skin side down, and brown them well on all sides - it'll take about 10 minutes for this part

In the meantime, peel 2 baking potatoes and quarter length-wise,

cut one Italian sausage link into 1" sections and peel 4 cloves of garlic

When the chicken is nicely browned, remove from the oil and set aside.

Add the potatoes, sausage and whole garlic cloves to the same pan and

give them a good browning as well - figure another 8 to 10 minutes for this part

Add the chicken back to the potato pan and pour a half cup

of each white wine and chicken stock into the skillet;

cover tightly and place in a 450 degree oven for 40 minutes

At this point, add 1/2 cup of frozen peas and

1 drained can of artichoke hearts,

Cover again and allow to cook for another 10 minutes

Carefully remove from the oven and transfer the chicken,

sausage and potatoes to a serving platter

Add 2 tablespoons of butter (or suitable substitute) to the remaining sauce

and stir well; mashing up the garlic cloves as you stir.

Pour the pea laden sauce over the chicken

and serve with some fresh made tagliatelle

Plate Fodder

Chicken Vesuvio

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 Chicken Thighs - Skin On / Bone In

1 Link Italian Sausage

2 Baking Potatoes

4 Cloves Garlic - Peeled

1 Can Artichoke Hearts - Drained

1/2 Cup Green Peas

1/2 Cup White Wine

1/2 Cup Chicken Stock

1 Teaspoon Oregano

1/2 Teaspoon Thyme

1 Tablespoon Olive Oil

2 Tablespoons Butter (or Butter Substitute)

1 Recipe Tagliatelle (find the recipe here)

1 Large Heavy Duty Skillet with lid

Tongs

Preheat oven to 450
Pat the thighs dry and brown evenly in the skillet with the oil over medium high heat
Remove the chicken and add the potatoes, Italian sausage, and garlic cloves - Cook until the potatoes are golden brown
Add the chicken back to the skillet and pour in the wine, stock and spices
Cover and bake for 40 minutes at 450
Remove from the oven briefly and add the peas and artichoke hearts
Cover and cook for another 10 minutes
Remove the chicken, sausage and potatoes and transfer them to a serving platter
Add 2 Tablespoons of butter to the remaining pan liquids and stir well to incorporate, making sure to mash up the roasted garlic in the process
Pour over the prepared platter and serve with fresh tagliatelle

Arm-Wrestling the Machine - Fresh Tagliatelle

2012-02-05T20:30:00.000-05:00

I'll be perfectly honest, I don't make a lot of pasta from scratch. I have a pasta maker, it's very shiny... it's been out of the box a total of 3 times since I bought it in 2003. Once to retrieve the instruction booklet so I could learn how to use it, once to show it off to an envious friend, and once to mangle a batch of lasagna noodles - they got wrapped around the little rollers and formed a solid mass of dough deep inside the works. I spent the next 2 weeks with a skewer and a toothpick fishing out the crusty, dried eggy bits out of the workings. I wiped the machine down, shined it with Windex, and put it back in the cupboard...way in the back... behind the salad spinner.

So, I usually end up buying dried pasta.

But in getting ready for the Chicken Vesuvio post (coming up next) I decided that IF I was going through all the trouble of making the dish... I OUGHT to bite the bullet and make the pasta as well.

And that's where the trouble began...
Pasta recipes are designed for dinners of 12 to 15 people - meaning, you're going to be making a boat load of pasta. I don't need 12 servings of any noodle, and especially not if it's going to en-robe the pasta machine again. So I played around with a couple of recipes, altered a few things, and came up with a recipe for a Four Serving Tagliatelle.

Fresh Tagliatelle
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 1/2 Cup AP Flour
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
2 Eggs
2 Teaspoons Olive Oil
2 Teaspoons Water
Quart Zipper Bag
Large Mixing Bowl
Fork
Extra Flour for Dusting
For Cooking
5 Quarts Water
2 Tablespoons Salt
2 Tablespoons Butter
2 Tablespoons Grated Parmesan Cheese
6 Quart Stock Pot
Strainer
Tongs

Place the flour and salt in the bowl, make a small well in the center
Add the eggs, oil and water to the well
With the fork, begin bringing the flour into the wet a little at a time
Once all the flour is incorporated, turn the dough onto the counter-top with a little extra flour (it is going to be very dry and crumbly - don't worry, it will moisten up as you work it)
Knead the flour on the counter-top for 10 minutes
Place the dough in the zipper bag, press out all the air and seal
Refrigerate overnight
When you're ready to use:
Take the pasta out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before you're going to use it
Cut the dough in half
Form into a rough rectangle, and with the machine on the largest setting, dust the rectangle with flour and roll through the wheels
Fold the dough into thirds and repeat for 3 times
Once you have completed the third, lower the setting one notch and roll again (dust the pasta if it begins to adhere)
Continue to drop the setting a notch and roll the pasta sheet though until you have it on the next to last setting
Dust with flour and roll the sheet into a loose roll
Repeat the process with the next batch of dough
Cut across the rolls into 1/4" strips and shake the pasta strips loose so that they unroll
Allow to air dry for 30 minutes

To Cook:
Bring the water and salt to boil in the stock pot
Add the pasta, letting it fall through your hands so that it doesn't clump together
Boil for 4 minutes
Test for personal preference on doneness at this point
Strain and drain
With the pot off the heat, add 2 tablespoons of butter (or suitable substitute) and dump the cooked pasta back in the pot
Toss to coat
Pour into a serving platter and top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Little Sparrows

2012-02-01T23:58:00.000-05:00

Don't get alarmed, we aren't talking actual bird-like sparrows, but rather Spätzle. Quite possibly my absolute favorite when it comes to a fresh-made pasta.
Why?
Some of you Italian pasta purists might be asking yourself that very question...

Because start to finish they take 4 minutes
Because its a close inbred cousin to my other addiction - dumplings
Because you get all these nooks and butter grabbing crannies when you make them the traditional way
and...
Because you can infuse the batter with all sorts of killer flavor boosters - like sausage, liver, cherries and apples... try doing that with penne.

Traditional Spätzle is really stupid simple. It is a soft noodle made with a fairly wet batter. The batter is spread over a cutting board and then scraped into salted boiling water. I've found an easier way to accomplish the same effect, is to apply the batter to the back of a wide spatula, then scrape the noodles off into the water with the edge of a knife or second spatula. I really don't want to say not to buy one of those noodle extruders that are available,
but don't...
What you will end up with is a fat, spaghetti-like noodle that has none of the character of a scraped noodle. No nooks - no crannies - no fun.

Spätzle
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients

1 Cup AP Flour
1 Teaspoon Salt
2 Large Eggs
2 Tablespoons Milk
1 Tablespoon Water
1/4 Teaspoon Nutmeg
2 Tablespoons Minced Fresh Herbs (Thyme, Basil, or Chives) Note: you can omit this part, they're just as good without them
2 Wide Spatulas
1 Large Mixing Bowl
1 Large 4 Qt Pot
Boiling water
Salt
2 Tablespoons Butter or suitable butter substitute
Strainer Basket
Whisk

Bring the pot of salted water to a rolling boil and reduce to medium low
In the large bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together and add the flour, salt, and herbs.
Beat well, scraping the sides of the bowl. The dough should be smooth and thick.
To make the spatzle, Press the back of one of the spatulas into the batter to coat the surface
With the edge of the second spatula, quickly scrape off about 1/3 of the batter into the water at a time.
Work quickly, you'll want to get about 1 serving into the water quickly so they can all cook at about the same time.
When the noodles float to the surface, they are done - this takes about 1 to 2 minutes - depending on how you sheet off the batter.
Pour off the noodles into the strainer and discard the water
Melt the butter in the same pot over medium heat and add the spatzle - tossing to coat.
Remove and serve immediately

For a delicious savory alternative to the plain noodle,

Add 1/4 Cup minced veal liver to the batter and toss the cooked noodles in some browned butter.

For a traditional late-night snack version,

omit the herbs and add 1/4 Cup Minced fresh cherries or grated apple into the batter and prepare as above
Brown the butter slightly and toss the spatzle with 1 Tablespoon sugar and 1/4 Teaspoon Cinnamon

Curb Market Crawl - Gold Rush Apples

2012-01-31T01:30:00.001-05:00

A curb market find in late January?... I know! Granted, it's not some heirloom, organic, micro farmed obscure tuber from Madagascar... But it's actual real fresh stuff from a local curb market thingy.... in January!

Making my weekly prowl through the mountains this past week, I really only intended to stop in at R & A Orchards in Ellijay to pick up a fried dried apple pie. (Yeah Yeah - they're fattening... But, it's a pie you can hold in your hands... and it's fried..)

But they were out..

However, lining the main sales floor were basket after basket of these. Gold Rush Apples - beautifully bronze, crisp and sweet.... I just had to pick up more than I could conceivably eat in a month.

Gold Rush is a relatively new apple to the party. Originally bred in the early 70's as a multi-cross based on the Golden Delicious. In the early 90's the Purdue Apple Program perfected the strain and released it for limited production. It is just now beginning to come into it's own.

What's so special about them? Well - for one, it's January and we have fresh, crisp, LOCAL apples in the market. These are a late season apple. The flesh is persistently crisp and non-browning, due a lot to the higher than typical acid content and the above average sweetness. And, in case you were wondering, make a great apple for sauteing, baking, saucing, and preserving.
(we're going to be doing some of that...)

Gold Rush ~ Golden Raisin
Deep Dish Pie
Makes 1~ 9" Pie
Ingredients
1 Double Crust Pastry Recipe (use whichever crust recipe you happen to love - or use this one)
4 to 5 Gold Rush Apples - Cored, Peeled, Diced (You want to have 4 Cups of Diced Apple)
1 Cup Golden Raisins
1 Cup Water
1/4 Cup Apple Jelly
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
1/2 Teaspoon Cinnamon
1/4 Cup AP Flour
1/4 Cup Sugar + 2 Tbsp Sugar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
4 to 5 Pats of Margarine or Butter
1 Egg - Beaten
Large Mixing Bowl
Small Mixing Bowl
9" Deep Dish Pie Plate
Medium Sauce Pan
Spatula
Strainer
Pastry Brush
Tin Foil

Preheat the oven to 425
Add the flour, salt, 1/4 cup sugar and cinnamon to the small bowl and mix well - set aside
Place the diced apples in the large bowl with the lemon juice and apply jelly - mix well

Bring the raisins and water to a boil then reduce to simmer until all the water is absorbed

Prepare the bottom crust in the pie plate
Add the raisins to the apples and mix well
Add the flour mix to the apples and turn to coat
Dot the filling with 4 to 5 pats of butter

Pour the filling into the prepared pan and lay the final crust over
Crimp the edges and cut 3 vent holes in the top of the pie
Brush the top crust with beaten egg and sift the 2 tablespoons of sugar over the top of the pie

Bake the pie at 425 for 10 minutes - uncovered
Reduce the heat to 350, tent with tin foil and bake for 1 hour

Cool on a rack until room temperature

And since you always have core and peelings left over - make yourself some Apple Butter.

Apple Butter
Makes 1 Pint
Ingredients
Core and Peeling from 4 Apples + 1 Additional whole apple - Diced
1/4 Teaspoon Allspice
2 Cloves
1/4 Teaspoon Cinnamon
1/4 Teaspoon Mace
2 Cups Water
1 Cup Sugar
Dash Salt
Large Sauce Pan with Lid
Spatula
Stick Blender
Large Mesh Strainer

Bring all the ingredients to a boil over medium high heat

Reduce to Low, cover and simmer for 1.5 hours

With the stick blender, puree everything in the pot, cover again and simmer another 30 minutes
Remove from the heat and press the puree through the mesh strainer to remove all the bits

Return to the heat and simmer another 30 minutes uncovered (or until the apple butter has reduced by 1/2)
Pour into prepared containers and refrigerate

Look Charlene Brownavich, it's the kinda great pumpkin thingy

2012-01-22T23:43:00.003-05:00

Okay - I'm not a fan. I see all these great recipes during the fall for pumpkin this and pumpkin that, and momentarily I may be intrigued... but when you get right down to it, it's all around pretty disgusting. There's very little you can do with it to eliminate that faint "pooty" odor that seems inherent with the innards.... and me and "pooty" just aren't friends.

It's kind of like when I had a restaurant downtown. My lead cook was an elderly black woman who could seriously throw down on some soul food. We'd compare note on recipes for ox tail, short ribs, succotash, and the like. During one of these exchanges she asked how I felt about chitlins (in case you dont know - chitlins, or chitterlings are braised pig intestines, slow cooked with onions and celery. ) I replied that I didn't care for them... I think my exact words were, "I don't care what you do to them, they still taste like crap (except I used that other word)..." She insisted I just hadn't had good ones, and the rest of my staff chimed in that Mama made the best chitlins in Atlanta. Hmmm... I agreed to buy a bucket (yes, they come in a big white bucket) of them for her to prepare. I had an open mind about it - maybe I hadn't eaten "good" ones before... but no, I think what you get with chitlins is just about as good as it gets.
Maybe I'm just super sensitive - but, I'm here to tell you, there isn't enough pepper, onions and celery in world to mask pig butt.

... but I digress....

... the point of all that up there, it's that same business end of a pig odor that puts me off pumpkin... normally.

Back around Halloween, I picked up a selections of hard squashes, gourds and mini pumpkins to festive up the kitchen and table for the holidays. They were cute, they were fun and by Christmas I had really grown tired of dressing them up like elves and roundish Christmas presents... besides, they weren't any closer to rotting so I could throw them out.

I was stuck doing something with them.

A while back I wrote about apple butter muffins and gave you the recipe. I assumed most people would just go out and buy a jar of apple butter if they wanted to make it. However, one gentle reader gave me a severe lashing because I didn't tell you how to make it from scratch...

So, before I get to the other things I made with pumpkin butter, I'll give you the recipe for your very own jar of pumpkin butter - besides, most store versions of it are really over-spiced for my taste, and mine is more delicate.

Pumpkin Butter
Makes 2 Pints
Ingredients
2 Cups Unsweetened Pumpkin Pulp, Cooked
1 Cup Brown Sugar
1 Teaspoon Fresh Grated Ginger
1 Teaspoon Cinnamon
1/4 Teaspoon Nutmeg
1 Clove, Crushed
1/2 Cup Orange Juice
2 Tablespoons Honey
Medium Sauce Pan
Spatula
Stick Blender

Place all the ingredients in the sauce pan over medium high heat
Hit with the stick blender until smooth and homogeneous
Bring to a boil and immediately reduce to low
Simmer on low for 45 minutes or until the puree reduces in half
Set off heat and allow to cool completely before using

Pumpkin Butter Pound Cake
Makes 3 Mini Loaves, or 1 12" Tube Cake
Ingredients
1 Cup Currants
1 Cup Water + 2 Tablespoons Irish Whiskey
1 Cup Margarine
1 3/4 Cups Sugar
5 Eggs - Beaten
1 2/3 Cups Pumpkin Butter (See Recipe Below)
1 1/2 Tablespoons Irish Whiskey
3 Cups AP Flour
1 1/2 Teaspoons Baking Soda
1/2 Teaspoon Baking Powder
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
1/4 Teaspoon Nutmeg
1/4 Teaspoon Mace
1/4 Cup Powdered Sugar
Stand Mixer with Paddle Attachment
Small Sauce Pan
3 Mini Loaf Pans or 12 Cup Tube Pan
Cooking Spray
Spatula

Preheat oven to 350
Add currants, water and the first amount of Whiskey to the sauce pan, bring to a boil, remove from the heat and allow the currants to plump.
In the mixing bowl, cream the margarine until light and fluffy
Add the sugar and incorporate well
Add the beaten eggs a bit at a time until they are all incorporated.
Scrape the bowl down periodically
Stir the remaining whiskey and the pumpkin butter
In the mixing bowl, mix together all dry ingredients
With the mixer on low, add the flour mix to the butter mix a little at a time, and mix until smooth
Remove the bowl and fold in the plumped currants
Pour batter into prepared pans and bake a 350 for60 to 65 minutes. (It's done when the tester comes out clean)
Let cake cool in the pans until just warm
Sprinkle Powdered Sugar after completely cool

Pumpkin Butter Log

Makes 1 Log

Ingredients

3 Large Eggs, Beaten

1/2 Cup Sugar

3/4 AP Flour

1 Teaspoon Baking Soda

1 Teaspoon Salt

2/3 Cup Pumpkin Butter

Filling

1 8 Ounce Tub Tofutti Cream Cheese Substitute (Keep Chilled)

1 Cup Powdered Sugar

1/4 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract

2 Teaspoons Orange Zest

2 Tablespoons smart Balance Margerine

Wax Paper

Cooking Spray

2 Medium Mixing Bowls

9" x 12" Baking Pan

Spatulas

Whisk

Tea Towel

Plastic Wrap

Preheat the oven to 375
Mix first 6 ingredients in one of the bowls
Beat with a whisk by hand until smooth.
Prepare the well greased baking pan 9 x 12 inch and cover bottom with wax paper.
Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes.
Lay the tea towel on the counter and sprinkle with powered sugar
when the cake is ready, turn out cake onto the towel
Remove the wax paper
Carefully roll the cake and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour.
Cream the filling ingredients by hand until smooth.
Remove the rolled cake from the fridge
Carefully open the roll and spread the filling evenly over the entire surface
Roll the cake again, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve

Roast Pumpkin Curry

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

3 Cups Peeled and Diced Pumpkin

1 Cup Chicken Stock

1 Can Coconut Milk

2 Medium Tomatoes, Seeded and Diced

1 Clove Garlic, Minced

1/4 Cup Parsley, Minced

1 Teaspoon Salt

Dash Cayenne Pepper

1/2 Teaspoon Ground Cumin

1/2 Teaspoon Curry Powder

1/4 Cup Olive Oil

Medium Mixing Bowl

9" x 12" Roasting Pan

Preheat over to 385
Place all the ingredients into the mixing bowl and toss thoroughly to make sure everything is well coated
Transfer to the roasting pan
Place in a hot oven for 45 minutes - or until the pumpkin is fork tender and most of the liquid is absorbed
Remove and let rest for 10 minutes before serving

One From Column A - Char Siu

2012-01-18T22:28:00.002-05:00

Brian (my partner in crime for a great many years) and I lived for Saturdays. Saturday was the day the BBQ Place (I know, a strange name for a Chinese restaurant) at Asian Square on Buford Hwy pumped out non stop Char Siu - and we stuffed ourselves in plate upon plate of mahogany lacquered, perfectly seasoned medallions.

Char Siu - or Chinese BBQ Pork used to be a staple at every Chinese restaurant. You could order it fresh off the rotary thingy, sliced and served with a heap of rice; find it diced and scattered like little jewels throughout the pork fried rice; used in twice cooked pork, and minced - mixed with hoisin sauce and stuffed in bbq buns. Times were it was a staple at every Mr. Won's, House of Eng, Mama Wu, Ho Ho, Cantonese Palace (insert your favorite Chinese Restaurant here). But those are sad days gone by. Like a great many things in equally diverse cultures, time - money - labor have taken their toll, and unless your particular Chinese haunt does their own slowly turning, crisperizing Peking Duck, you probably wont be getting any of that... or Char Siu, either. It has just become too troublesome and expensive for many eateries to manage.

Char Siu isn't terribly difficult. What it is.. is time consuming. This isn't something you're going to whip up in an hour for an impromptu dinner. This is going to take a good 3 days. So, grab a couple of good books and watch a good movie while its working.... maybe something with Chinese food in it.... like this one....

I have taken a couple of liberties with the traditional recipe:
1. I don't like using Bottled Hoisin Sauce - 99 / 100 times is have just an obscene amount of MSG in it, which no one needs to be ingesting.

2. The red dye - although I do miss that reddish bark on the pork - I eliminated it. I tend to like the pork a little more natural looking. However, if you find that you really want that mahogany look, add 2 drops of red food coloring to the wet marinade mix.

3. I don't use corn starch in anything unless I absolutely have to - I've used Tapioca Starch - Feel free to revert back if the mood strikes you.

Char Siu

(Chinese BBQ Pork)
Makes up to 4 Pounds
Ingredients
4 Pounds of Boneless Pork Butt or Pork Belly (Pork Butt will give you a meater - drier Char Siu, while Pork Belly will give you a softer, juicer end product.)
2 Tablespoons Honey
3/4 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Chinese 5 Spice (or you can grind you own - See Mark's recipe at No Recipes here)
1 Clove Garlic - Minced
1 Tablespoon Candied Ginger - Minced
2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
2 Tablespoons Sweet Rice Wine
1/4 Cup Tapioca Starch
2 Tablespoons Oil
Medium Mixing Bowl
1 to 2 Large Zipper Bags
Outdoor Grill
Tongs
Whisk
Brush

Trim a little of the excess fat from the pork butt (leave the fat on for more tender)

Cut the pork into 2" x 2" strips the length of the butt

Place the pork into the mixing bowl and cover with the tapioca starch

With your hands, work the starch thoroughly into the strips - making sure ever expose surface is covered in starchy goo.

Transfer the strips into the zipper bags

Place all the remaining ingredients (except the oil) into the mixing bowl and whisk thoroughly to blend

Pour the marinade into the bags over the strips

Squeeze down to remove as much of the air as possible and seal

Squitch the marinade around in the bags, making sure the pork is well exposed

Refrigerate for 2 days - turning the bag over a couple of times each day

To Prepare:
Preheat your outdoor grill (your oven will work, you will just have to turn the strips more often) to 200 degrees
Place a layer of foil over the center section of the lower grate and place the strips on the top rack over the foil
Brush the strips with oil
Close the grill, set the timer for 1 hour
After 1 hour Turn the pork 1/4 Turn and reset the timer
Repeat for 4 hours.
Remove and either serve immediately, or cool down and refrigerate until needed.

Like a Raisin in the Sun

2012-01-04T22:09:00.000-05:00

I'm in the mood for some ice cream.
I hear you -

"Toby!, its Freakin' cold outside! How can you be talking about cold, creamy deliciousness at a time like this?"

The fact of the matter is - anytime is a good time for ice cream. Stop and reflect for a moment, when you saw the words Ice Cream just then didn't you pause for just a split second and think

"don't I have some double fudge
chocolate chip cookie dough
caramel ripple ice cream tucked
away in the freezer?"

No? Of course you did.
Now, while no one would dig into a huge mug of hot chocolate with marshmallows in the middle of the summer (now, that's just plain crazy), ice cream transcends all seasons and all reason. It's a guilty pleasure for some, a treat for others and a down right obsession for the rest of us. It is the only true non judging lover, the original NSA FWB, and it's a hell of a lot cheaper than an hour with your therapist. It is the fiber that holds us all together.

The trouble is some of us are lactose intolerant, and that lactose free stuff is like eating vanilla snow. And, unless you're fine with chocolate being your nemesis, your only other option is Vanilla Bean.... which gets old.... very old.

I came across So Delicious Coconut Milk "ice cream" at the market last summer. It is the best non dairy product I've tasted. But like all the soy and almond based options, the flavors are almost ALL chocolate or chocolate +. Normally, that shouldn't be an issue for many of you. However, Jane is severely allergic to chocolate... not the "wow that gave me a zit" kinda of allergic - the call EMS and start with the CPR kind... so that really limits our options.

One of our favorites is Rum Raisin, so I've been thinking and wondering if I could use the Vanilla Bean as a base and improve on it to create a satisfyingly delicious alternative.

I'm here to tell you, WOW!
Think Haagen Dazs meets gelato and they have a mouth party love child.

Okay,
Yes - you probably can make the whole thing from scratch...
Yes - it is a few steps
and, Yes - it's still a non dairy treat... but you wont think it is after you're finished with it.

Rum Raisin "Ice Cream" Gelato thingy
Makes 24 ounces
Ingredients
1 Pint So Delicious Coconut Milk Vanilla Frozen Dessert
1 Cup Golden Raisins
1 Cup Dark Rum
1/2" x 2" strip of Orange Peel
Pinch Nutmeg
2 Tablespoons Brown Sugar
2 Egg Yolks
1 Tablespoon Plain Sugar
Medium Mixing Bowl
Spatula
Whisk
Medium Sauce Pan with water
Small Heat Proof Mixing Bowl
Small Sauce Pan
1 Quart Container

In the small sauce pan, bring the raisins, brown sugar, orange peel, rum and nutmeg to a boil; boil for 1 minute then remove from the heat and allow steep for an hour and cool completely

Meanwhile, bring the medium sauce pan to a boil
Add the egg yolks and sugar to the heat proof mixing bowl and whisk over the hot water until thick and lemon colored - move to the fridge to cool completely

Once all components are chilled, transfer the egg yolks and Vanilla Bean "ice cream" to the mixing bowl and fold together to combine thoroughly
Remove the orange peel from the raisins and add to the mixture, Fold lightly to just combine
Transfer the mix to the quart container and place in the freezer to set (about 1 hour)

Later and Shorter...

2012-01-04T00:59:00.000-05:00

"The night air is cool on the body, mesmerized as the light glistens off the dark and oddly black appearing liquid ... and in the light of the full moon I'm spinning and twirling....."

nothing... at all.

eh.. back to the eats...

The Veg.

Copper Pennies
While not a southern tradition, they are a fine addition to the whole personal wealth scheme of a theme. And being as objective as I can about it, probably just about as a fool proof way of enriching your bank account as say buying into Carlton Sheets "How to Steal a House from Desperate People" or that other guy's "Learn to buy all the distressed property in a town no one wants to live" plan. This way, you at least get to eat something good and not feel all dirty afterwards.

Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
4 Large Carrots - Peeled
1/2 Cup Orange Juice
1/4 Cup Honey
1/2 Cup Chicken (or vegetable) Stock
1/2 Cup Butter or Non Dairy Margarine
1 Shallot - Minced
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
Medium Sauce Pan

In the sauce pan on Medium High heat, bring the stock, orange juice, butter, honey and seasonings to a boil
Cut the carrots into 1/2" rounds and add the carrots and the shallots to the pot
Reduce to low and simmer for 20 minutes (or until the carrots are just fork tender
Bring the heat back up to medium high and reduce until the glaze thickens (about 5 minutes)

Mixed Greens
Trad i t i on a lly, New Year's Day Greens are collards.... eww. I don't cook collards, I like my house. And really, we've never been a collard kind of family. Greens for us have and always will be a 50/50 blend of turnip greens and mustard greens. The greens are more tender, the flavors are more delicate and the texture is supple and almost meaty. The milder autumn we had this year was an added bonus because it produced an abundance of these less hardy greens at the curb markets this week - when typically they would have been well out of season by October.

Serves 8 to 10
Ingredients
1 Pound Washed Turnip Greens
1 Pound Washed Mustard Greens
2 Strips Fatty Bacon
1/4 Cup Oil
1 Tablespoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Black Pepper
6 Cups Water
Dutch Oven

Dice the bacon
On high heat, render the bacon in the dutch oven until clear-ish but not browned
Add the oil
Rough chop the greens
With the pot still on high, add the greens to the pot
With tongs or a large spoon turn the greens over in the oil coating them completely and allowing them to wilt down
Once they have reduced by 2/3, add the salt, pepper and water and boil for 15 minutes
Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 hour

Black-Eyed Peas

While these have been a staple on many a southern table for just about any occasion, they fit into our money for nothing theme as a substitute for coins. I could tell you how to pick them, pressure cook them, and season them like a Deep South cook, but I'm not. Black eyed beans out of a can taste exactly like beans you worked way too hard to make from scratch. The beans are courtesy of Luck's - which are by far the best tasting of the lot.

Vidalia Onion Quick Pickle
These were another Curb Market Crawl find this past week, and another surprise find as a result of the milder season. Since I opted not to produce a chow chow for the meal, I worked up a quick pickle / relish to go with the beans and greens.

Makes 1 Cup
Ingredients
2 Green (or Baby) Vidalia Onions
1/2 Cup Rice Vinegar
1 Teaspoon Celery Seed
1 Tablespoon Sugar
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
Small Sauce Pan
1 Non Reactive Bowl

Cut the onions into 1/4" rounds from tip to bulb (include the green bits)
Place the cut onions into the bowl
In the sauce pan, bring the vinegar, sugar, salt and celery seeds to a boil
Remove and pour over the sliced onions
Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour

A day late and a dolla' short

2012-01-02T20:16:00.000-05:00

2011?
Well, it's over... done with... gone...
and save for a few bright moments and flickers of joy - It was an abysmally bad year here at Turtle Creek, and one I'd really care not to repeat anytime soon.

So I'm closing the books on ol' 11 and onward and upwards to number 12. I'm on to bigger posts for MR Fodder, better resumes and interviews for that whole under employment thingy, and finally putting a couple of things to right that have been eating at me for a while. Fair warning - I'm enlisting everyone and everything I can think of to make it so... short of dousing myself in chicken blood and dancing naked under a full moon.... it really doesn't work, you'll have to take my word on that one.

Starting with day one - the New Years Day Dinner. Every culture has some food talisman intended to generate health, good luck, immense wealth. The Peruvians chow down on potatoes cooked with saffron to emulate pots of gold; Asians munch on super long bundles of noodles twined into a ball to bring good luck; Italians mound on the lentils (because they look like little coins) in hopes of a prosperous year and in Turkey it's pomegranates for fertility...Here in the South, we'll eat just about anything that looks even remotely like money... So I'm not taking any chances...

Pork - so we'll be well fed and, well... fat

Copper Pennies - the carrot ones - you know, 'cause they look like coins

Black-eyed Peas - for even more coins

A Big Pot O Greens - for, you know... greenbacks
and since I'm going all in for total benefit this year -

Onions - for health, longevity, disease prevention, and.... beauty.
Hey, we could all use a little help in that arena....

Since its a lot of stuff, We'll deal with the meat first and get to the veg in the next post.

Honey Lemon Brined Pork Roast
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients
Brining Liquid

1/2 Cup Honey
1/4 Cup Salt
1/4 Cup Brown Sugar
32 Ounces Water
4 Bay Leaves
1 Clove Garlic Crushed
1/2 Teaspoon Poultry Seasoning
1 Teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes
1 Lemon Sliced Thinly
2 Tablespoons Oil
1 Gallon Zipper Bag
Medium Sauce Pan
Roast Preparation
1 - 4 to 5 Pound Boneless Pork Butt
2 Tablespoons Brown Sugar
1 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
Roasting Pan with Rack
Small Mixing Bowl

In the medium sauce pan, add all the brining ingredients except the lemon slices and bring to a boil
Remove from the heat, add the lemon slices and allow to cool completely
Place the pork butt, and all the brine into a gallon zipper bag and squish down to remove all excess air from the bag

Place in the fridge and allow to marinate overnight - Remember to flip the bag over a couple of times during the brining
The next day, Drain off the liquid and lemon slices and discard
Preheat the over (or your outdoor grill) to 225
Pat the roast completely dry with a paper towel

In a small bowl, mix together the sugar, salt and pepper and thoroughly rub all the dry mix into the pork
Allow the roast to sit for 15 minutes after coating
Place the pork on the rack in the roasting pan and slow roast for 4 to 4.5 hours - or - until the internal temp reaches 150 degrees.
Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes before carving

Breakfast of Champions

2011-12-18T11:23:00.000-05:00

No, it isn't a delicately crafted breakfast casserole. No, it isn't some high protein, uber high fiber, tasteless cardboard bar...

It's a waffle.

As a matter of fact, it's a Gluten Free Waffle. Don't you dare turn up your nose...
Don't get the wrong idea with me pushing a GF waffle. Unless you are gluten intolerant or have been diagnosed with Celiac or Hashimoto's Disease, I do not sanction living gluten free... just Gluten Reduced. It's become one of those things (like HFCS and Crystalline Fructose) that has become an inexpensive additive for a number of manufactured products. It's difficult to get away from it even if you have no specific tolerance issues. It's in your salad dressings, condiments, cereals, breads, as well as a good many over the counter meds, lipsticks and balms, lotions and shampoos. It's everywhere. And while ten years ago, the numbers originally hovered around 1 in 3000 for Celiac, recent studies have dropped the counts to 1 in 100 for allergic issues and even as low as 1 in 10 for gluten specific intolerance.
So it behooves us to do what we can to lessen the Gluten Load on our systems.

But undoubtedly some of you say "gluten is sooo yummy". And I agree. Gluten gives foods that unctuousness or brown flavor. It is what makes breads and toasted products so satisfying. I've found very little in the Gluten Free world that can mimic that sensory delight except making your own GF mix - but unless you are living Gluten Free, you really don't want to buy sorghum flour, sweet rice flour, brown rice flour, amaranth flour, potato flour, xanthan gum .
So, buy this instead:

Namaste Waffle and Pancake Mix

It is, hands and arms, the best of any other pre-made mix. Crispy? oh yes! Unctuous? Oh Yes! The kind of delicious that will make you forget it's GF... just throw away the directions on the package.

I'm here to give you the skinny on making perfect GF waffles that your family will never suspect.

The problem with most mixes, is either they come off as doughy or the moisture content has been adjusted severely as to make them crunchy. And unfortunately, Namaste's instructions (as written) are no different. While the plain waffle product is good, with a little tweaking, it can rival any Malted Waffle on those decadent Sunday Brunch Buffets.

Now... Namaste's Instructions only give you options for full and half batches. There are only 2 of us in the house, I don't need 10 waffles... not 10 Belgium style... which is the iron I have. I only need one. So the following is the recipe for 2 Belgium Style Waffles

Perfect Gluten Free Waffles
Makes 2 Waffles
Ingredients
1 Cup Waffle Mix
1 Egg
1/3 Cup Water or Buttermilk
1 Good Pinch of Salt
2 Drops Vanilla Extract
1 Tablespoon Oil
1/2 Banana - Here's the thing with bananas. I always look at the market for the bruised and damaged bananas. Buy them when they are on sale, peel them immediately and drop in a freezer baggie. Once they are frozen, they will keep indefinitely and you will always have fresh bananas on hand for waffles...or banana bread.
1/2 Cup Berries (Blueberries, Blackberries or Cherries)
Waffle Iron
Medium Mixing Bowl
Spatula
Cooking Spray (Pam and Mazola both make a Gluten Free Spray)

Plug in the iron and preheat
Place the banana in the bowl and smash well with a fork.
Add the first 6 ingredients to the bowl and mix with the spatula until there are no lumps

Note: if you are using Buttermilk, Add 2 additional tablespoons of water to the mix as the buttermilk tends to dry out a bit quicker.

Just before pouring, add in the berries and coat well with the batter.
Liberally spray the hot iron with the spray and pour 1/2 of the batter evenly into the mold
Cook for 4 minutes (or 1 minute AFTER the timing light goes out)
Serve Immediately with fresh butter and syrup. We actually use Log Cabin Sugar Free Syrup (another great product!)

If you like your waffle with a little more ..um heft, Try adding 1/2 Cup of Udis' Gluten Free Granola with Cranberries to the mix instead of the berries!

If you would like to know where to get the above products, Check Below:

Namaste Waffle and Pancake Mix - Available at most health food and national grocery stores. However, neither the Kroger or the Publix in my area carry them. I get them at the small local IGA Grocery Store... go figure.

Amazon.com does carry them and has a deal for 6 bags. You can find it HERE.

Udi's Gluten Free Granola with Cranberries - Actually, I've never seen it at a store, but it can be had once again, at Amazon - HERE.

Gluten Free Cooking Spray - Available at any national store.

A Whirling Vortex...

2011-12-17T22:31:00.001-05:00

small memory sapping rocks at the bottom of a lake...
and feral cats playing some really hypnotic piano...

O - Kay ....

I have no viable excuse. It's been 35 days since the last post. And to be perfectly honest, I just lost interest in being interesting.

It really started when I got back from the beach wedding... (yes.. I know I promised the recipes) and discovered that none of the food pictures resembled anything close to edible food. Which meant that I would have to re-cook everything just to get a picture of it..... (which I will get to, eventually) But expectation overload, sleep deprivation and post function funk got the better of me...
and I just didn't wanna...

So I've busied myself with anything except that. I spent 2 weeks hauling dead fall around in the woods making walking paths. I researched making a stumpery. I started collecting data for a spring hypertufa project... note: All non-food projects.

and, sadly.. I've taken to watching Giada De Laurentiis.... Man, she's got way too many teeth in her head.
Although I find a lot of her preparations more show than go, she did make something interesting this past week - Ground Beef Minestrone, which did look fairly good.
How-ever, you already know I can't leave a recipe alone... even a good one. So, I made some adjustments for my personal taste.
If you'd like her original recipe, you can find it HERE.

Italian Sausage and White Bean Minestrone
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
3 Large Italian Sausage
1 Large Carrot
1 Rib Celery
1 Medium White Onion
2 Cloves Garlic
2 Cups Chicken Stock
1 28 oz Can Petite Diced Tomatoes
1 15 Oz Can of White Navy Beans
1 Tablespoon Tomato Paste
2 Bay Leaves
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1 Large Dutch Oven
Chopping Board
Knife
Spatula

Peel the onion, garlic and carrot, dice the carrot, onion and celery into 1/2" cubes
Crush the garlic cloves
Heat the dutch over over medium high heat with the olive oil and saute the vegetables and garlic until translucent (about 5 minutes)
Squitch the sausage out of the casing and add to the vegetables, breaking the sausage apart with the spatula
Continue to cook until the sausage is cooked through (about another 4 to 5 minutes)
Add the garlic, tomato paste and the diced tomatoes with the juice and stir well to combine
Add the white beans and the bay leaves
Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes

Since I'm not a huge fan of cheese in soup, I opted to make Parmesan cheese corn muffin croutons to float on the finished soup. To make these: split 3 corn muffins and top with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese on each half, place on a baking sheet and place under the broiler until the cheese is browned and bubbly.

The long and short of it...

2011-11-12T09:39:00.001-05:00

All things considered, I'm not a a slow-cooker kind of guy. I like having my hands on and in whatever I'm doing too much. It's always seemed a bit of a cheat to throw a bunch of stuff in a crock pot, crank that baby to a sweltering 160 degrees, and come back in 8 hours to something.. well.. stew-ish. Which is fine if you're making carnitas which need to cook to the point of deconstruction.

Don't get me wrong, I have one. I bought it 5 years ago - and from what I've read it's a good one ( rated by however it is that they rate those things). I may have used it 3 times since I've had it. Right now it's making a very nice cradle for my immersion blender.

All of this is odd because I really do like slow cooking things. I just don't want anyone or anything else having all the fun.

My Pot Roast - Brilliant!
My Sis's Overnight Oatmeal - Doubly Brilliant!
My killer all-day-long-simmer-in-the-dutch-oven Bolognese Sauce - I challenge you to find a better one.
My Jewish Mother Brisket - it's like buddah.

and then there's Short Ribs...

As long as I can remember, my mom oven roasted her short ribs. Hearing the bones crackle on the tin foil, that all consuming vapor from the caramelizing fat as it bathes under the heating elements, the tiny, muted applause of the juices and liquids bubbling around the meaty cubes - it is all but heaven. Unctuous and delicious - yes... but tender? Well, considering its 70% connective tissue - another 30% hard-working muscle... let's just say you need your fork and knife.

And, of course, so were mine - until I watched an episode of Good Eats some years ago dealing with short ribs, and mine were transformed.

Of course, I've strayed from the original format considerably, but the idea of heavy herb packing and tin foil pouches is the same. Fair warning - this is a lengthy deal, so if you're looking for something quick for tonight's dinner, this isn't it.

Short Ribs
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 - 2 to 3 Pound Pack of Short Ribs
The Rub:
1 Tablespoon Sea Salt
2 Teaspoons Black Pepper
2 Tablespoons Ground Coriander Seed
1 Teaspoon Orange Zest
1/2 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
The Schmear:
1/2 Cup Ketchup
2 Tablespoons Fish Sauce
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
The Finish:
All Liquid from the pack
1 Cup Chicken Stock
1 Rounded Teaspoon Tapioca Starch (dissolved in 1/4 Cup cool water)
The Tools:
2 - 18" x 18" sheets of Heavy Duty Tin Foil
Baking Pan
Small Mixing Bowl

Preheat the oven to 285
Mix together the schmear and set aside
Mix together the dry rub ingredients
Blot the ribs dry with a paper towel and liberally coat each rib with the mix
Double stack the tin foil and place the ribs in the center of the square (if you have more than 8 pieces, double stack the remainder on top)
Smear the schmear over the top of the ribs
Bring up the edge and form a tight package around the pile of ribs
Completely seal all seams on the foil
Place the pack on a baking sheet and bake for... 6 hours.
Remove and and allow to cool completely. (if you chill it overnight, the rendered fat will be much easier to remove.)
After cooled, open the packs and remove all the collected rendered fat - discard.
Preheat the oven to 350
Pour off all the drippings and juices into a small sauce pan
Re-wrap the ribs and place back in the oven
Heat the dripping with the chicken stock and add the starch slurry, heat until it thickens
Remove the ribs and plate on a nice crostini and top with the stock sauce.

Two in the Drink

2011-11-07T00:22:00.000-05:00

The Sandwich Diaries, Episode Two
(The Egg Dip - Monte Cristo and Avalon)

I fell in unabashed, complete, unadulterated love when I was 10.

Each August, just before the beginning of the school year, my mom would take each of us out individually to Rich's Department Store at Cobb Center to spend the day shopping for the upcoming year's school needs. Normally, a shopping day wasn't that great of a thing and the Easter Sunday Shopping Trip was a mad dash through the clothing and shoe racks to get four bitchy, complaining kids outfitted as quickly and as inexpensively as possible. But as one of four essentially the same age (there's a year and change between each of us) getting a day of one-on-one face time with either of the folks was a rare occurrence. So the yearly shopping trip was a big deal.

The Magnolia Room, Rich's resident restaurant, was tucked away at the center of the store between the bakery and the double escalator the spirited you away to the housewares department. More of a ladies luncheon kind of place with its off-white judges panels, floral upholstery and starched white tablecloths. But to a 10 year old... in the late 60's, well before the creation of Malls, it was one of the few good places to eat. This was where we got to eat on shopping day.

This is where I had my first Monte Cristo. It was love at first bite.
The Monte Cristo. Although it's origin is somewhat fuzzy... Disney claims to have invented it in the late 50's, along with 15 other establishments during that time. However, the Brown Derby Restaurant appears to have them all beat by having something very close to it on their 1947 menu. It is, for all purposes, an adaptation of the Croque Monsieur with the cheesy Mornay sauce replaced by a crispy egg batter. The sandwich is then dusted with powdered sugar (the Magnolia Room used a lace doily and created a confectioners sugar snowflake across the browned landscape) and served with a pot of raspberry jam to sweeten the deal. I still think it is one of the most elegant sandwiches.

Monte Cristo
Serves 2
Ingredients
Batter:
1 Large Egg
1 Cup Milk
1/4 Cup Rice Flour
Dash Salt
Sandwich
4 Slices Hearty White Bread
6 Ounces Shaved Ham - Divided
6 Ounces Shaved Turkey - Divided
4 Slices Aged Swiss or Gruyere
2 Ounces Raspberry Jam
Confectioner's Sugar
Oil
Tools:
Medium Bowl
Deep Sided Skillet
Spatula
Toothpicks
Strainer Basket or Sifter
Prepare the batter:

In the bowl, beat together the batter ingredients for about 1 minute and set aside
Trim the edges off the bread
Lay 1 slice of Swiss on each bread slice
Top with 1/2 of each ham and turkey
Top with the other cheesed slice
Pick the sandwiches together
Heat the oil in the skillet on medium high heat
Completely submerge the picked sandwich into the batter - coating all sides
When the oil is hot, carefully transfer the sandwich to the oil - letting the oil slosh up the sides to seal the batter
Fry for 2 to 3 minutes - or until the batter is a golden brown
Carefully turn the sandwich over and cook another 2 minutes
Transfer to paper towels to drain
Fill the sifter with the powdered sugar and give the top of the Cristo a good dusting of sugar
Cut the sandwich in half and serve with a small ramekin of raspberry jam

Since I can't seem to leave well enough alone... and I since I get that big baby daddy love for savory / sweet combinations. I decided to give the egg dip treatment to another sandwich favorite.

When I was at Dunderbak's, we had a turkey and cranberry sauce sandwich. I know, it sounds afflicted... but it really was very good.

I've dressed it up with a fresh whole berry relish and sliced brie cheese and dipped it in the egg bath.

I call it

The Avalon

Serves 2

Ingredients

4 Slices Hearty Artisan Bread

1 Recipe Egg Batter - See above

12 Ounces Sliced Turkey

1/4 Cup Cranberry Relish - See Recipe Below

6 Ounces Brie - Cut into 1/3" slices (rind attached)

Confectioner's Sugar

Additional 1/2 Cup Cranberry Relish

Oil

Tools

Medium Bowl

Toothpicks

Skillet

Sifter

In the bowl, beat together the batter ingredients for about 1 minute and set aside
Top 2 slices with 1/2 turkey
Spread 2 Tablespoons of the relish over the turkey and top with 1/2 of the sliced brie
Top with the other slice
Pick the sandwiches together
Heat the oil in the skillet on medium high heat
Completely submerge the picked sandwich into the batter - coating all sides
When the oil is hot, carefully transfer the sandwich to the oil - letting the oil slosh up the sides to seal the batter
Fry for 2 to 3 minutes - or until the batter is a golden brown
Carefully turn the sandwich over and cook another 2 minutes
Transfer to paper towels to drain
Fill the sifter with the powdered sugar and give the top of the Avalon a good dusting of sugar
Cut the sandwich in half and serve with a small ramekin of the cranberry relish

Cranberry Relish

Makes about 1 1/2 Cups

Ingredients

1 Cup Whole Cranberries

1 Peeled and Cored Apple - Chopped

1 Tangerine - Whole, Chopped

1 Cup Sugar

Food Processor

Small Sauce Pan

Process all the ingredients until still chunky but evenly sized
Transfer to the saucepan and heat over medium heat until it thickens
Remove and allow to cool to room temp

Sopes Sopa - or - Chicken Masa Soup

2011-11-05T22:29:00.001-04:00

I came back from the beach to find these

Sopes

in the fridge.

Gummy, doughy little Masa cakes called sopes. Usually, you steam or grill them and fill with a savory meat saucy thing. The Masa turns a cheesy consistency and the whole dish should remind you of a tamale.

Texture in food is a big thing for me, so they are, Far and Large, my least favorite Latin ingredient.

I've been craving a good tortilla soup lately, so I decided to deconstruct (a nice word for chopping them to hell) and used them as Masa flour for my Chicken Masa Soup.

- If you don't happen to have your own package of redi-made sopes in your fridge... you can use cornmeal...or regular Masa.

Chicken Masa Soup

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 Chicken Thighs - (Bone In / Skin On)

2 Cups Tomato Juice

2 Cups Chicken Stock

1 Medium Onion - Minced

2 Poblano Peppers - Diced

1 Red Bell Pepper - Julienne

1 Clove Garlic - Chopped

1 Bay Leaf

1 Tablespoon Oregano

2 Teaspoons Ground Cumin

1/2 Teaspoon Black Pepper

2 Tablespoons Oil

2 Teaspoons Salt

1 Teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes (Optional)

4 Sopes (or - 1/2 Cup Masa Flour) + 1 additional sopes diced

1/2 Cup Oil

1 Avocado - Diced

Dutch Oven

On Medium High heat, add the oil, peppers, garlic and spices - saute until the spices heat and begin to perfume
Add the chicken, stock and juice, reduce to medium and cover
Cook for 45 minutes
Remove the chicken and shred the meat, discarding the skin and bones
Return the chicken to the pot with the chopped sopes (or the Masa flour)
Reduce the heat to low and stir until all the sopes are dissolved and begin to thicken the soup

In a separate pan, heat the 1/2 cup of oil and fry the remaining diced sopes until brown and crispy - drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt
To Serve:
Ladle 1/4 of the soup into a large bowl and top with 1/4 of the diced avocado and fried sopes

One From Column B ...

2011-11-05T13:56:00.000-04:00

Recently Sung, a good friend of mine from Taiwan, asked why I don't write about good Chinese recipes. A fair enough question... The truth? I don't know any.

I mean, I make a killer Fragrant Crispy Duck and a passable Peking Duck - but that's pretty much the extent of my repertoire. Anything else I try just ends up being a generic stir fry... and you don't need me to tell you how to do that.

And... since I'm being perfectly honest, if I want Mu Shu Pork or Mongolian Beef - I'm going to go someplace that knows how to make it right, and not waste the fifteen bucks in groceries to make an inedible copy. I'm all for Cooking the World, but sometimes you just have to admit someone does something better than you... and besides, I love those little white boxes.

But Sung's question stuck with me, and while I've been recuperating from last week's wedding I thought I'd relax by putting my spin on a Take Out Classic.... Chicken with Snow Peas - and see if I could make something as good (if not better) than a Column B special.
(You'll have to get your own egg-roll.)

Chicken With Snow Peas
Serves 2
Ingredients
1 Cup Skinless Chicken Breast - Cut into 1/4" Medallions (About 2 Good-sized Chicken tenders will do the trick)
1 Cup Snow Peas
1/2 White Onion - Sliced
1/4 Cup Water Chestnuts - Sliced
1 Scallion - Cut into rings
1/2 Cup Cooking Oil
Marinade:
1 Tablespoon Light Soy Sauce
1 Teaspoon Tequila
1 Teaspoon Rice Vinegar
1/2 Teaspoon Toasted Sesame Oil
2 Teaspoons Tapioca Starch
Sauce:
1/2 Cup Water
1 Teaspoon Tequila
1 Teaspoon Rice Vinegar
1 Tablespoon Oyster Sauce
1/2 Teaspoon Sugar
1/2 Clove Garlic - Minced
1/2 Teaspoon Grated Ginger
2 Teaspoons Tapioca Starch
Other Tools:
Wok
Slotted Spoon
Whisk
2 Small Bowls

Cut the chicken into medallions
Prepare the marinade in one of the bowls and whisk well
Add the chicken, cover and let sit for 30 minutes
Prepare the sauce - add all the sauce ingredients to the other bowl - whisk well and set aside

Prepare the Vegetables - String the peas, slice the onion into 1/4" slices, slice the chestnuts and scallion
Heat to wok and oil on high until very hot and add the chicken - Move the chicken about in the oil constantly to prevent from sticking - Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the chicken is just cooked through. You don't want the meat to brown.
Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and set aside

Discard all but 2 tablespoons of oil and return the wok to the cook-top
Add the peas, onion and chestnuts and saute until the pods are bright green and the onions begin to loosen (about 3 minutes)
Whisk the sauce once again to suspend all the starch and pour into the middle of the hot pan
Turn and coat the vegetables until the sauce begins to thicken, then add the chicken back to the wok
Mix the ingredients to coat well and remove from the heat.
Serve with a big bowl of steamed white rice

Madame et Monsieur ...

2011-10-21T23:42:00.000-04:00

"Est-ce un sandwich dans votre poche ? Ou vous êtes simplement heureux de nous voir..."

The Sandwich Diaries: Episode 1

Everyone has that thing, or list of things that "does it" for them food-wise. If you've been reading along over these many months, you would have picked up on a general theme in the foods and recipes I call "comfort food"... and that's Cheese.. well, and Fried... and things stacked together... like a sandwich... (I do love me a good sandwich!)
It's funny, I don't remember where I had a lot of my first of things... meals in general just float around the clock waiting their turn to be consumed. But a sandwich? I can quote you time, date and place.

My 1st:

Fried Bologna Sandwich? I was 8 and home sick with the flu.

Beef Tongue? Summer 1978 DB Kaplan's Delicatessen in Atlanta. After an hour of pouring over their menu of 287 sandwiches..that's what I settled on. (It was the end of my freshman year in college - and I was feeling particularly grown-up).

First Reuben? Dunderbak's... December 1973 - long before I even considered working there. And well before we expanded that humble 20 sandwich menu to a tummy busting 216 sandwiches, 26 wieners and sausages.

Abbondanza? Magic Pan, 1974 - May...noon-ish (it was my birthday) That wonderful stacked crepe sandwich layered with ham, cheeses, turkey and accouterments.

Croque Monsieur? Well, that's today's story...

By 1980, sandwiches were well into my repertoire of needful things in the comfort department. I had just moved to Savannah to work with Hyatt and knew nothing of coastal living, knew absolutely no one in the city and the only place I was sure even had sandwiches was Clary's Drugstore. Largely because it was situated canter-corner across the street from my apartment and I could see the Coca~Cola menu board above the cramped counter from my bedroom window. But a patty melt or a club with those little frilly picks just wasn't my idea of something good to eat. I took to roaming the streets in search of something to make me feel at home (food-wise).

Savannah came late to the corporate restaurant party. So at that point in time, the city's squares were chucked full of odd little restaurants and cafes tucked away in old carriage houses and minuscule shop spaces barely large enough for a counter. On one particular winter prowl through the historic district, I had stopped under an awning for a minute to readjust my coat against that biting coastal wet cold when the door behind me swung open.

"You hungry? Come on in, we're doing Mr. Crispys"

Mr. Crispy was a Croque Monsieur.

A Croque Monsieur is essentially a ham and cheese sandwich. Originating around 1914 to 1917 in Paris as a quick lunch for the growing urban workforce. Invented by... well, it doesn't really matter who invented it, everyone now claims to be the inventor... kind of like the Philly Cheesesteak. It is served 4 ways: open face or two slice, and with or without Mornay sauce. It is cheesy, crunchy sandwich heaven.

To make your very own Mr. Crispy:

We'll be doing the 2 slice / sauced version

Croque Monsieur

Serves 2

Ingredients

4 - 3/4" slices of good crusty bread

12 Ounces Sliced Ham (Not Shaved)

3 Cups Grated Gruyere

1/4 Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese

1 Tablespoon Butter

1 1/2 Tablespoons Flour

2 Cups Milk

1/2 Teaspoon Salt

1/4 Teaspoon Black Pepper

10 Good Scrapes of Nutmeg

1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard

Sheet Pan

Large Sauce Pan

Whisk

Preheat the oven to 400
Place the bread slices directly on the rack and toast until dry, crunchy and golden brown - remove and set aside
Make the Mornay Sauce:
Melt the butter over medium heat
Add the flour, salt and pepper and make a blond rue
Add the milk and whisk briskly to incorporate
When the sauce begins to thicken, remove from the heat and whisk in 2 cups of the Gruyere and the Parmesan cheeses - Set aside
Spread 1/2 of the mustard on 2 slices of toast
Divide the ham onto the prepared slices and top with a large spoon of the Mornay sauce
Top with the remaining toast slices, and coat the tops of the sandwiches with the remainder of the sauce
Top with the remainder of the Gruyere, place on the cooking sheet and bake at 400 for 10 minutes
Turn the oven to broil and heat until the tops of the Croques are golden brown and bubbling
Serve either piping hot or allow to cool to room temperature.

Over the years, the Crispy got upgraded and downsized, embellished and denuded into various incarnations. The most popular of these was the Croque Madame. A Mr. Crispy served open face with a poached egg on top.

Croque Madame

Serves 2

Ingredients

2 - 3/4" slices of good crusty bread

12 Ounces Sliced Ham (Not Shaved)

3 Cups Grated Gruyere

1/4 Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese

1 Tablespoon Butter

1 1/2 Tablespoons Flour

2 Cups Milk

2 Poached Eggs (poached light)

1/2 Teaspoon Salt

1/4 Teaspoon Black Pepper

10 Good Scrapes of Nutmeg

1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard

Sheet Pan

Large Sauce Pan

Whisk

Preheat the oven to 400
Place the bread slices directly on the rack and toast until dry, crunchy and golden brown - remove and set aside
Make the Mornay Sauce:
Melt the butter over medium heat
Add the flour, salt and pepper and make a blond rue
Add the milk and whisk briskly to incorporate
When the sauce begins to thicken, remove from the heat and whisk in 2 cups of the Gruyere and the Parmesan cheeses - Set aside
Spread 1/2 of the mustard on 2 slices of toast
Divide the ham onto the prepared slices and top with a large spoon of the Mornay sauce
Top with the remaining sauce
Add the remainder of the Gruyere, and place a poached egg in the center of each sandwich (I've added a slice of brie to the top of the poached egg)
Place on the cooking sheet and bake at 400 for 10 minutes
Turn the oven to broil and heat until the tops of the Croques are golden brown and bubbling
Serve either piping hot or allow to cool to room temperature.

A Whiter Shade of Pale...

2011-10-21T00:37:00.001-04:00

First of all, I have a bit of side-stepping to do. Misdirection, actually...

You see, I had this camera. It wasn't a particularly good camera by any means - but it was my point and click instrument of choice for the photos I use here on Plate Fodder. I stand very still, I squint my eyes (for no apparent reason), I would hold the little box at an artistically correct angle and voila! a reasonable facsimile of what I spent bent hunched over the counter for the last hour working on. And if the pictures didn't turn out all that well I'd tell myself that it's just because I am not a particularly good photographer..

(although in all actuality - I am), and not because I was using a crappy camera best designed for snapping candid shots of Zippy jumping for a Frisbee as opposed to capturing the fine crackle in the sugar crust of a creme brulee.

At any rate, I didn't give it much thought. Shoot, transfer, Photoshop to oblivion, publish. It had become old hat... comfortable - you might say. And while I may not have been excited with the outcome, even if the colors were a little muddy - at least they were in focus.

until I dropped it...

and kicked it under the table...

and crushed the lens when I tripped picking it up. (I seem to have fine motor skill issues...)

In way of an advance apology - I'll be using the built in camera on my LG-C900... yes, that's a camera phone. You know, it's really difficult to say you miss something bad - until it is replaced by something terrible. So for the foreseeable future - this is going to be my "camera of choice." Funds just don't warrant purchasing something I really don't need, for use in something that doesn't produce any income.

But, for the time being... if you stand very still, hold your head at an artistically correct angle...

... and squint.

Mmm... Sticky

2011-10-19T01:08:00.001-04:00

When it come to things on a grill, how I like it depends on the "finger umami".
Yes, that's right Finger Umami.
Because so much of what we eat and enjoy isn't just in the way it feels in the mouth...
It's the heft of a big ass burger ...
It's the warm, billowy strands of a seriously good yeast roll as you pull each tender layer apart ...
The crunch of the fat cap and the ting against the point of your knife as it drags against and slices through the perfect quarter-turn marks on an expertly grilled steak ...
And, it's the almost-lacquer, hand coating stickiness of a great pork or chicken marinade and glaze.

... and that's what you get with sticky soy glaze.

Sticky Soy is my home attempt of a bottled Asian product - Thick Soy Sauce. While the bottled version works in a pinch, like a lot of bottled soy products - they can end up tasting a little mechanical... if you know what I mean... that odd funk that really doesn't belong to any known food group.

Sticky Soy is stupid easy to make... keeps forever... and makes just the best base for super sticky, smear it all over your face, roll around in it marinade and glaze.

To make your very own Sticky Soy - you will need:
1 1/2 Cups Soy Sauce
1 Cup Jaggery (Jaggery is an Indian thickened molasses in crystalline form. You can find it at most international markets.)
1/2 Cup Molasses
2 Tablespoons Fish Sauce
1 Medium Sauce Pan - Non Reactive
Spatula

On Medium high heat bring the soy and fish sauce to a boil
Add the Jaggery and molasses and continue on high until all the jaggery is dissolved and begins to bubble
Lower the heat to low and reduce the mixture by 1/3
Remove from the heat and store in sterilized jars.

The sticky soy should keep well in the fridge for 6 to 8 months

Boneless Pork Ribs
With Sticky Soy
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
2 Pounds Boneless Country Style Pork Ribs
1/2 Cup Sticky Soy
1 Tablespoon Lemongrass
1 Clove Garlic - Minced
1 Teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning
1 Teaspoon Black Pepper
1/4 Cup Dark Rum
Large Zipper Bag
A Grill
Tongs

3 Hours before grilling:

Place all the ingredients except the pork in a large zipper bag and shake well to combine
Add the pork and squish around through the bag to coat each piece well
Seal the bag and let rest for 3 hours

Then...

Heat the Grill to 400
Place the ribs directly over the coals for 2 minutes per side to sear the surface
Transfer to the top shelf, lower the grill to the lowest setting and squeeze the rest of the marinade out of the bag onto the ribs
Cook for 15 to 20 minutes or until the ribs are a minimum of 145 degrees interior

Curb Market Crawl - Crookneck Squash

2011-10-18T00:38:00.000-04:00

This past weekend in Dahlonega was Gold Rush Days. If you live here, that means barricade yourself in the house until all the tourist leave... or get out of town. We chose the latter. And since this is also the beginning of pumpkin season, apple season and the beginning of what is proving to be a very colorful fall leaves display - we had to get far away. We headed farther up north to Dillard and Mountain City, past the point where a day drive from the city makes sense.

The Foxfire Museum is located in Mountain City, GA

With the cool clear day, it was the perfect time to spend some time getting dusty in the bounty of antique and junque stores, have lunch at the Cupboard Cafe (they're located on Hwy 441 in Mountain City, GA.) A great place to stop in when you want something other than corporate franchises. A large menu, great sandwiches - one of the best Reuben Sandwiches I've ever eaten - and a mind numbing selection of fresh house made pies.

We also took a little time to indulge in poking around one of my favorite stores... Cindy's Dragonfly - the be all to end all source for Quirky Lawn Art.... they've got metal goats!

And, no trip out is complete without a stop at a Curb Market. We made a pass at The Tomato House in Murrayville. Still my #1 pick for curb markets, The Tomato House does their best to source local growers for the majority of their produce, and can tell you who and where it all comes from. And they do it at some of the best prices in the mountains

More than just a curb market, there you can find local honey, house brand canned goods, a heavy selection of fried pies and sweet breads... and a lot of folk-y stuff to accessorize your backyard... like an outhouse.... or a lawn jockey... As a side note - If you are coming to the mountains to get a pumpkin this year, The Tomato House has vastly increased their selection of pumpkins. They are carrying all the popular heirloom varieties and most of the large pumpkins are going for $8.00.

We picked up a couple of pounds of crookneck squash this trip... I Know! crookneck squash this late in the season... I couldn't believe my eyes. It's amazing how finding something typically a summer crop this late in the season makes you feel almost like your cheating. I was happy all the way home.

I had to make one of our family's favorite ways to do squash... Skillet Squash with Potatoes and Onions.

Skillet Squash
with Potatoes and Onions
Serves 6
Ingredients
1 Pound Crookneck Squash
1/4 Cup Self Rising Corn Meal
4 Medium Baking Potatoes
1 Medium Onion - Sliced into rings
1 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Black Pepper
1/4 Cup Oil
Large Skillet with Lid
Spatula
Mixing Bowl

Slice the squash into 1/4" rounds; slice the potatoes into 1/8" rounds
Toss in a bowl with the salt, pepper and cornmeal
Fry on medium high heat until just lightly browned on each side (about 3 min per side) - remove and drain on paper towels
Add the potatoes and onions to the same pan you cooked the squash and saute until just tender
Add the cooked squash back to the pan and toss with the potatoes
Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for another 10 minutes

... and then I had to make my personal favorite...

Squash Dressing

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

1 Pound Yellow Crookneck Squash (about 2 cups)

2 Cups Crumbled Cornbread

1 Medium Onion - Finely Chopped

1/2 Cup Celery - Finely Chopped

1 Scallion - Chopped

2 Eggs - Beaten

1/2 Cup Chicken Stock (or Vegetable Stock)

1/2 Cup Milk

1 Cup Jack Cheese

1 Teaspoon Sea Salt

1 1/2 Teaspoons Poultry Seasoning

1/2 Teaspoon Black Pepper

2 Tablespoons Oil

Cooking Spray

1 Large Zipper Bag

8" x 4" x 4" Baking Dish

Large Mixing Bowl

Spatula

Preheat the oven to 375
Slice the squash into 1/4" rounds using all the squash
Place the squash in the zipper bag and micro on high for 4 minutes - set aside to cool
Saute the onions and celery in the oil until the onions are just clear
Place the cornbread crumbs in the mixing bowl with the stock and milk - toss and allow to sit for 15 minutes
Add the vegetables to the cornbread mixture and add the egg and seasonings
Mix thoroughly and add the cheese and the scallion and mix well
Pour the mixture into a lightly oiled baking dish and bake at 375 for 25 minutes.

Fridge Raid

2011-10-16T11:44:00.002-04:00

Some time ago, there used to be a recurring article in one of the bolt of industry periodicals that came across my desk.
The Fridge Raid.

The editors would pick some pseudo-celebrity or high profile chef... and poke around in their refrigerator.
In voyeuristic terms alone, it was a opportunity to peek inside the private lives of kinda public people and chance seeing a half eaten celo-pack of Ho-Ho's nestled next to a carton of quail eggs... a myriad of take-out boxes, and a truffle... a half-eaten Costco chicken and a block of Maytag.

Although, since you can't count on everyone playing fairly, there would be the occasional, obviously pre-informed raid and the expertly back-lit cooler would reveal 4 highly polished bottles of Perrier, a micro beer, 2 tubs of micro greens, a handful of high end condiments (all unopened) and a loaf of artisan 15-grain bread...

Who the hell eats like that.

One of the food communities I belong to sent out a call for their publishers to come up with and blog about an economical meal with only the things you already have on hand in your pantry. That got me looking at what I actually keep on hand.

I realize that a lot of singles, or couples even, don't back stock a lot of groceries. And that a meal designed from whatever staples you might have could be a benefit. But I've been broke... and I've been poor-ish. And I know what happens when you aren't diligent in keeping your back stores up - You find yourself eating graham crackers with strawberry jam and peanut butter on Thanksgiving.

... And believe me - there's no amount of creativity that will make a glob of cracker encrusted peanut butter look like a turkey. Suffice it to say, I now keep a well-stocked fridge and pantry.... I could outlast Armageddon.

So, call me a snob... but I didn't play in the cook what you have on hand game. I can always pull a meal together from what's hanging around in our stores. I learned from the best. With four ravenous kids and a hungry husband in tow, my mom could work magic with a can opener and a bag of rice.

So.. the fridge raid. I decided to poke around in our fridge and tell you what I keep on hand. Yes.. it's self serving.... Yes.. it's a little embarrassing when I actually put it down in print... and Yes.. feel free to make fun of the mess all you want....

I'm eating well...

Right then...

Jarred Goods:
I keep 3 to 4 different types of mustard at all times. I like yellow for hot dogs, brown for sammiches, and German style when I need to burn my nose hairs.
Mayo is Dukes. It used to be Kraft, but they did something bizarre to the formulation and it turns watery after it's been open for a week.
There's a 1/2 bottle of Brianna's French Dressing, a bottle of Marzetti ranch, sesame and balsamic dressings I use for marinades.
Pickles and olives - one of each. Bread -n- Butter, Dill, Kosher, Cornichons, stuffed pitted olives and calamata.
I'm also a sucker for relish, so there's usually a chow chow, onion relish and a chutney there.
Jams and Jellies - a jar of Minneola Marmalade, Stem Ginger (preparation below), Frog and Fig preserves, Strawberry Jam and Apple Butter.
Condiments - Soy Sauce, Sticky Soy, Fermented Black Beans, lemongrass in a tube, fish sauce, sesame oil (toasted and plain), Maggi, Worcestershire Sauce, liquid smoke, sesame seeds, rice wine vinegar, three types of chili sauce, Ketchup, Chicken and Beef Stock.

Perishables:
Eggs - 2 to 3 dozen at all times. Omega 3... preferably Eggland's Best.
Jello Indulgence Lemon Parfaits (lactose free)
Pre-prepared foods: some kind of cooked protein (pot roast, cooked chicken) A fully cooked entree, veg and starch for a last minute meal if needed.
Bread - a pack of English Muffins, Tabouleh Rolls ( a dairy free crescent -style roll), Individual packs of Buttermilk Waffles (lactose free), a zipper bag of corn muffins.
Cottage Cheese - Lactaid lactose free version.
Fresh Blueberries
Raspberries
Romaine Lettuce and a bag of Spring Mix
Cabbage and Radicchio
Carrots, shallots, baby potatoes, scallions, 1 leek, chives, sweet peppers, celery hearts, artichoke (2), eggplant habanero chili (1)

Meats:
Low Sodium Bacon - I find the Kroger brand is a larger strip, 10 fewer grams of sodium and 10 calories lighter than Oscar Meyer
Turkey Pepperoni - it just lasts longer
Sliced black forest ham

Dairy:
Tofutti Sour Cream and Cream Cheeses
Tofu - 1 block, extra firm
Romano and Parmesan
Dried Apples
Colby Cheese - I know...but it makes the best cheese toast.
Cabot's Seriously Sharp Cheddar - It's Lactose Free
Feta
Convenience packs of Tartar Sauce and Hummus.
Earth Balance and Smart Balance butter substitutes

Drinks:
Wine - Dry white and champagne; a beer; tonic water; caffeine free Diet Coke (it has that grab your throat bite where Coke Zero doesn't); Lactose Free Milk, Buttermilk, Tomato and Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Yuzu Juice and currently - Flying Dragon juice.

Freezer:
One package At least of each protein - beef, chicken, pork, fish. (I will buy larger cuts of beef and pork, then cut them down to 1 pound portions before freezing. That usually nets me 3 - 1lb roasts and a couple of packs of stewing beef. For chicken, I buy the family packs and break them down into individual meals. So between beef and chicken alone - I have 10 days of protein for 2 people) And, It's less temptation on 2 people to overeat when there is less meat cooked up at meal time. A left over whole Chuck Roast Pot Roast wont last 2 days in the fridge if its just sitting there....calling me.
There are always Italian Sausages and Boar's Head Hot Dogs (they are the closest to German Style wieners you can get)
1 Pack each of Chopped Onions and Peppers
6 packs Frozen Corn from the Cob and Run Summer
Frozen peas and beans 1 each
A pack of puff pastry, filo dough, pie crust
Semolina Flour, orange zest, lemon zest, dragon zest - lemon juice ice cubes.
Yeast, coconut flakes, dried peaches, cranberries, quince and mango
Edy's Fruit Bars (sugar free), Decadently Yours Coconut Milk Ice Cream,
3 loaves of dressing, a bag of generic ravioli and budget meatballs.

So... this begs the question...

What's in your fridge?

Here's the Preparation if you want to make your own Stem Ginger (Ginger in Syrup) It makes for a quick gingery addition to any marinade, add it to something acidic and a little oil and you have a quick dressing, add 2 tablespoons to a glass of club soda for killer homemade Ginger Ale.

Stem Ginger
(Ginger in Syrup)
Makes 1 Pint
You Will Need
1 Pound Ginger Root - Peeled and Julienne
4 Cups Sugar
3 Cups Water
Large Sauce Pan

Place the ginger strips in water on high heat and bring to a boil
Reduce to low and simmer for 1 hour
Add the sugar and return the pan to just boiling
Reduce one again to low heat and simmer for an additional 30 minutes
At the end of the 30 minutes, the syrup should be the consistency of light corn syrup
Pour into sterilized preserving jars and seal.
The ginger will last in the fridge for about a year - and on the pantry shelf for about 6 months.