Bezručova Ulice

Looking West along Bezručova ulice 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

Looking West along Bezručova ulice 2003
Copyright information unknown

Bedřich Smetana

Portrait of Bedřich Smetana in Plzeň 1843
Photograph copyright & source unknown

Statue of Bedřich Smetana in Smetanovy Sady 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The German Theatre

The German Theatre circa 1900
From a postcard

This is an area of Plzeň which I don’t understand. I’ve spent a lot of time looking at photographs, old and recent; at maps, old and recent and at aerial images, recent only

From what I understand, the German Theatre stood on the east side of Goetheova ulice and was demolished in 1977. Looking at the picture of it, it would appear to be quite an imposing building and I imagine its proportions would have been consistant, that it’s depth would be in proportion to its length.

But I can’t see how this could have been the case.

…to be continued… (I need to sort out the photos I have of the area)

Stalin

Stalin’s Statue 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Stalin’s Statue 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

A Young Lady

The Young Lady 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

The Young Lady 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

The Great Synagogue - Velká Synagoga

Velká Synagoga circa 1900
From a postcard

Velká Synagoga in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Velká Synagoga in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

I took this photograph in 1991. The photograph seems to tell a very sad story. The sheer size of the building seems to suggest that the Jewish community in Plzeň once made up an important part of the population - it’s the third biggest synagogue in the world. I don’t think there’s any need to mention why or how this changed: I think anybody reading this will be well aware of what happened during the second world war.

Apart from the building’s obvious emptiness and lack of use, the absence of the six pointed star in the photograph is a harsh reminder.

Velká Synagoga circa 2000
Copyright information unknown

The synagogue is now beautifully restored and bears its star once more.

Pětatřicátníků Sady 11
30124 Plzeň
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 602 441 943

Kopeckého sady

The North side of Kopeckého Sady in 1905
From a postcard

The North side of Kopeckého Sady in 1918
From a postcard

Looking East along Kopeckého Sady circa 1920
From a postcard

Looking East along Kopeckého Sady in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

See also:
Burgher Hall - Měšťanská Beseda
West Bohemian Museum - Západočeské Muzeum

Americka Třída

Americka Třída 42

Americka Třída 42 was the Czechoslovak communist party regional headquarters
Copyright information unknown

The building which stands on the corner of Americká třída and Prokopova ulice was previously the communist party’s regional headquarters. Currently it houses the University of West Bohemia’s law faculty.

Americka Třída 42 circa 2000
Photograph from www.ops.zcu.cz

The above photograph shows how the building was extended on the Americká side to fill the gap seen on the earlier 1950s photograph.

There are now plans to extend the Chamber Theatre (Komorní divadlo) into this building.

Sokol

The Sokol House - Sokolna, year unknown
Copyright information unknown

The Sokol House in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

The Sokol House in 1991
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991

Franciscan Church

The Franciscan Chapel and Monestary are apparently amongst the oldest remaining buildings in Plzeň dating from the 13th century which means they survived both the Hussite and Thirty Years wars.

Franciscan Church 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

My 1985 guide of Plzeň (I really should try and find a more up-to-date reference!) labels the chapel seen in these photographs as Nanabevzetí Panny Marie which seems to translate as The Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

I don’t really understand religeous matters and so would refer you to the University’s page which details the history of the Franciscan Church.

Franciscan Church 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

During my visits to Plzeň the church and monestary weren’t open to the public as far as I remember however I believe they have now been restored and visits are possible.

Franciscan Church 2004
Copyright information unknown

These three photographs show the view from the entrance on Františkánská ulice.

Malá Ulice

Stará Sladovna - Stredoveká krcma, Malá ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

I thought I’d start with this photo for no other reason than that looking at it now makes me want to be there. Spring will soon be moving into summer and the fine weather seems at last to have arrived (although I hear the ominous rumbling of thunder in the distance - sent, perhaps, from England to annoy me) and a glass of Pilsner, sitting at one of those benches in the shade would do very nicely indeed.

Malá Ulice in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Malá Ulice in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

This second photograph is very interesting as in the courtyard of the brewery museum there is a doorway / portal with a plaque stating that, in 1958, the doorway was moved from house reference number 39 in Malá Ulice.

The plaque in the Brewery Museum
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991

This would certainly seem to tie in well with George’s photograph. Looking at the next photograph, I’m fairly sure this is the doorway that was moved.

The Doorway / Portal moved from Malá Ulice to the Brewery Museum in 1958
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991

The University of West Bohemia has this to say about Malá ulice :

The solitary narrow lane on the site of medieval Plzen to be preserved up to the present day (up to the end of the 19th century there was also Katovska Street on the site of today’s General Post Office).

Now, however, it is demolished and the houses with doors on the north side have been knocked down.

According to a Czech dendrology site dendrochronologie.cz, the house previously referenced as numbers 39 and 40 in Plzeň went by the name of Lautensackovský dům - so could George’s photograph show the destruction of Lautensackovský dům? I rather think it does.

See also the Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu article

Drawing of Malá Ulice 1928
Provided by George Krejci

I’d really like to thank George for this one: This is a very interesting drawing of the buildings in question. Here we can see building refernce number 39 in use although it would appear that an upper storey has been removed.

Building reference number 40 is present - in the 1950s photograph, it is missing although the line of its roof can be seen on the adjoining building.

I wonder why these two houses were removed?

Mala ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Thanks to Eva for this recent photograph - the view is from the opposite (east) end of the street and the site of the two buildings we’ve been talking about is marked by the brown wooden fencing (seen here on the right).

The building seen on the lefthand side of this photograph is also a very interesting building. This is the Stará Sladovna (the Old Malt House) which is also known as the Středověká Krčma - The Medieval Ale House (or Tavern).

I don’t have any 1990s photographs of this building - nor even this street - but I do seem to remember it. I’m sure it wasn’t open - had it been, I would surely have quenched my thirst there.

The Old Malt House - Medieval Tavern 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

This is a better view of Stará Sladovna.

Malá ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

This view of Malá ulice is very similar to the first 1950s photograph.

Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu

Here’s a distinction I’ve been unable to make.

I obviously visited the museum in 1991 - beer wasn’t my reason for visiting Plzeň but nobody can visit Plzeň without beer having made an impression.

I won’t say that I wasn’t a keen beer drinker. I was. But when I decided to visit Plzeň, when I was on the road, beer didn’t really cross my mind.

Beer, however, has one of its homes in Plzeň and a very important home it is too.

The brewery is mentioned elsewhere. It’s a subject which warrants a complete website. But that’s not why I’m doing this. This section is about my lack of understanding about what has, for me, become an enigma:

The brewery Museum and the pivnice named Na Parkánu.

Photo time:

Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

The above photograph is of what I found in 1991 - I was looking for a pub, a pivnice. I was thirsty! But I can tell you that, although the brewery museum was definately hidden behind these walls, there was no notion of testing the beer it documented (despite the sign “Pivnice”).

For comparison’s sake, I’ll post a recent photo of the same view before returning to my confusion.

Brewery Museum, around 2004
Copyright information unknown

There now. There’s no doubting that this is the brewery museum and, looking at the text on the side of the building, I feel safe in believing that the pivnice Na Parkánu is the pivnice my thirst required in 1991.

My problem lies not with what is and what, in 1991, wasn’t. Rather than with what is and what was in 1993 (I, unfortunately have no photographs… )

My memory tells me that, in 1993 a pub - perhaps named Na Parkánu - existed here. But I remember it as a locals place. A place where local guys went for a quiet beer. I don’t remember white paint and I don’t remember crowds of tourists. I do remember a sense of surprise at finding a pub, a pivnice, in that particular corner of the town. I also remember a fantastic atmosphere. The beer was great.

So what happened?

I’ll need your photographs…

Brewery Museum, 2002
Copyright information unknown

Well this photo helps fill the gap - the pivnice sign is still in place, we can see the fresh brickwork at the far end and there certainly seems to be a pub sign hanging from the wall.

This is probably close to the 1993 situation although that extension does look a little too new to have lasted 9 years.

And now that I’ve bored you with my confusion, I’ll continue with my old photos…

Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - looking Westwards - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - Pub Sign - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Brewery Museum Galleries - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Identification Requests

I’ve created this page in order to post photographs which I am unable to identify. I hope that somebody will see them, recognise them and leave a comment with any information they have.

Národní Banka?

Národní Banka (I think), Plzeň 1991

I think I’ve identified this building as the Národní Banka, but I have no idea where it is and I don’t know whether it still serves the same purpose. I don’t even know if it still exists.

It’s not a great photo - I think it was taken while crossing the road… that’s not the best way to take photos.

Can anybody help?

Latest Unidentified

Unidentified building & yard, Plzeň

This is a very interesting photograph sent to me by George, but where is this scene?

Identified : it would appear that this is the back yard of number 13 Náměstí Republiky (čp. 106) Chotěšovský dům.

The University of West Bohemia says this :

Chotesov House, ref. no. 106 (13 nam. Republiky), property of the Chotesov monastery from 1487. This original Gothic building was rebuilt in the last quarter of the 16th century, probably by master-builder Jan Merlian.

On the first floor there are Renaissance wallpaintings of the apostles. The rear has an open Renaissance loggia. The building contains the ethnographic section of the West Bohemian Museum.

I wonder if the yard is still accessible…

Unidentified

Unidentified building & street, Plzeň 1940s

Copyright information unknown

Can anybody identify this building and the street name?

Moravská Vinárna

Moravská Vinárna 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Perhaps above all other view of Plzeň in 1991, the above view of Bezručova ulice refelcts best the feelings I had of time having stood still. I could compare the above view to that of a 1950s photograph and see very few differences - perhaps some decay but mostly, the two photographs would be similar.

An obvious equivelent, for me, would be France in the 1950s - this view brings to mind 1950s street scenes of France. But this was 1991. How charming it was! Where else could I have had the feeling of living in the epoch of my parents?

It’s a classic view of a classic steet which will never be removed from my mind.

But this is about the Moravská Vinárna (Moravian Wine Bar).

From the minute I entered, I fell in love. The atmosphere was right, the decor was right and they had liver on the menu!

I’d love to have their recipe. I’ve tried to reproduce it on numerous occasions over the past 15 years but I can’t get it right.

I have no idea how many times I ate here, but the liver dish was “off” all but twice. (towards the end they crossed it out in pencil on all menus).

They also had Vavřinecké.

Let’s skip past a few photos before I continue - one or two are quite important!

Moravská Vinárna 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

In passing, I’ll have to comment that, as seen above, by 1993 Bezručova ulice was no longer a 1950s street… it’s amazing how quickly the decades can pass once the brakes are removed…

Moravská Vinárna 2003
Photograph from the Traveling is Living website

The bar at Moravská Vinárna
Copyright information unknown

The Moravská Vinárna Restaurant
Copyright information unknown

Moravská Vinárna
Bezručova 4
Plzeň 301 13
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 377 237 972

Perlová Ulice 4

Perlová Ulice 4 in 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Perlová Ulice 4 circa 2003
Copyright information unknown

Number 4 Perlová ulice is now the official entry point into Plzeň’s ancient undergound.

Perlová Ulice 8

Perlová Ulice 8 in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

When I first saw this building I thought it was a pivnice, a pub. From 1991 to 1993, however, it never seemed to be open and I was left wondering. One day in 1993 I was strolling down Perlová ulice and noticed that the door was open. Inside was a stock of beer barrels and a guy was rolling one onto a trolley to deliver, I suppose, to one of the nearby pubs.

The opened door was the one on the right under the Plzeňský Prazdroj sign and the interior didn’t look like it had been a pub for a very long time - if ever.

I still wonder what the purpose of the building was before 1991. It must have been either a pivnice or a beer shop, mustn’t it?

Perlová Ulice 8 in 2003
Photograph © Copyright 2003 epep.cz

Now though, there is no doubt as to the shops use. As can be seen in this photograph which I found at epep.cz. I apologize to the site owner - I couldn’t find a contect address and so am using this photograph without permission…

If anybody has a better photograph or knows more about the history of the place, I’ll be very grateful!

Perlová Ulice 8 - Update

Well it seems I had the answer to my question amongst my photographs. As can be seen in this image, N° 8 Perlová Ulice was a retail outlet for the brewery museum. A beer shop! I wonder why I never read the sign?

Perlová ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

I should thank Eva for this photo - it shows the East side of Perlová ulice looking, perhaps, from a point very near to My House. The view hasn’t changed too much in the past 15 years - the changes aren’t so striking as they are in other areas of the historical centre.

Looking at this photograph, I can imagine strolling along Perlová ulice, making my way towards the brewery museum… I do wish somebody would renovate the tea emporium though - and remove those yellow and green signs! I wonder who owns it… surely they should be persuaded to sell?

Plague Column - Morový Sloup

The Plague Column (Morový Sloup) in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Plzeň’s Plague Column (Morový Sloup) in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Plzeň’s Plague Column (Morový Sloup) in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

Náměstí Republiky - East

The east side of Náměstí Republiky around 1910
Postcard from the collection of J. Šlehofer

The east side of Náměstí Republiky in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright 1950s George Krejci

The east side of Náměstí Republiky in 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

The east side of Náměstí Republiky in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Náměstí Republiky - West

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1900
Copyright information unknown

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1942
Copyright information unknown

Náměstí Republiky - West in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

The west side of Náměstí Republiky (year unknown)
From a postcard

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Changes

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1900
Copyright information unknown

The west side of Náměstí Republiky in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The West side of Náměstí Republiky has seen the most structural changes than the others. Just as with the Hotel Central (see the Hotel Central article for details) the above building was replaced by a less than pretty construction which doesn’t fit in with the rest of the square.

The most surprising thing for me is that the current building was present in the 1940s (see photos above). This seems to be a very modern design for the 1940s, doesn’t it?

To me it seems out of place - I’m sure that had it been surrounded by buildings from a different age and architectural pedigree, it would be a pleasure to the eye. By itself it is just that, but it doesn’t seem to fit in the context in which it stands. Which is a shame.

Náměstí Republiky - North

The north side of Náměstí Republiky circa 1940
From a postcard

The north side of Náměstí Republiky in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

The north side of Náměstí Republiky in 1961 (the year of my birth…)
Copyright information unknown

The north side of Náměstí Republiky in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The north side of Náměstí Republiky in around 2000
Copyright information unknown

My favorite building on Náměstí Republiky in 1998
Photograph © Copyright 1998 Atelier Soukup (Architects), Plzeň

The above photograph shows my favourite building on the square. I know, it’s not the most decorative of buildings - and if it’s decorative you’re looking for, Plzeň’s Náměstí Republiky is not a bad place to start - my building, though, is plain, simple and rather boxy. I like boxy architecture

It’s quite sad to see it this way - empty and with it’s signs missing. I think this photograph was taken when it was for sale (or rent).

In the early 90s it was home to a glass and porcelain shop which was very popular with the passengers of coaches on their whistle-stop tour of the Czech Republic but now it I believe it houses a mobile telephone shop and a banking / insurance company.

I prefered it as a glass and porcelain shop.

My favorite building on Náměstí Republiky in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The back of number 2 Náměstí Republiky in 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Vodárenská věž

Vodárenská věž in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Plzeň’s old Vodárenská věž (Water Tower) was constructed in 1532 to supply water to the city. It formed part of the Prague gate in the city’s old fortifications.

The top floor of the tower was added in around 1822 and the gothic portal in 1912. The portal was originally part of a house (197) on Prešovská ulice which was demolished and it dates from around 1500.

It can be found et Pražská ulice 19.

Vodárenská věž (Water Tower) 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

Vodárenská věž (Water Tower) 2004
Copyright information unknown

Vodárenská věž (Water Tower) end of the 19th century
From a postcard.

The above image shows detail from an undated postcard. It must be after 1822 and before 1912 because the extra floor is present but the gothic portal hasn’t been added.

For the above reasons, this image is interesting but it is even more so - not just because of the mention of a porcelain factory at number 21, but more importantly for the obvious bridge over the stream. This was a back water of the Mže which can be seen clearly on the 1912 map of Plzeň but which is missing in the 1930s version (see Street Names - Street Plans).

This may explain some of the effects of the 2002 floods in this part of the city. It would certainly explain the placement of a water tower here

Vodárenská věž (Water Tower) 1761
From a postcard. Artist: Josef Novák 1761

The above detail from a postcard is interesting as we can clearly see the (shorter) water tower forming part of the Prague Gate. The river is quite obvious in this view.

The Water that Fed the Water Tower

Water towers are constructed for a single purpose - to provide a source of on-tap water to the community. Most modern day water towers use rain as their supply, they then stock the rain water to be treated and used by households.

Pilsen’s water tower was obviously not fed (directly) by rain fall. As we’ve seen, the supply came from the river. The river in question was actually a backstream - a short-cut, if you like, which joined the Mže to the Radbuza. In 1912 it would appear that this was a major route - there was a weir taking water from our stream down into the Radbuza. I’d love to have seen it!

The 1912 map showing “our stream”
Provided by George Krejci

This 1910 postcard of Šafařikovy sady clearly shows “our stream”
From a postcard

Question: was the weir constructed in order to ensure a plentiful supply of water to our stream and, therefore, the water tower?

Answer: I don’t know but our stream may well have been a canal whose sole purpose in life was to provide water to the city. Had it been a canal, I feel sure that it was constructed over an existing water course - even if the said water course was little more than a trickle. I remain unconvinced however. I’m of the opinion that this was a natural water course which has been helped a little by the engineers.

So where did this stream (or canal) go and why?

Pražská ulice 23 in 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

This is a great photo for our purposes - here we can see no water (there’s a little snow though) and we can see the bridge. The building, 23 Pražská, is the same building seen in the 1900s postcard (formerly a red brick construction).

The area we see covered in snow would, however, seem to be rather high - doesn’t the bridge seem to missing part of its arch? I’m beginning to wonder if there isn’t some kind of underground stream covered and hidden by the City’s engineers somewhere between 1912 and 1930.

I wish I had access to records - this is bugging me…

In 2002 Plzeň was a victim of floods. There are many photographs of Plzeň during the 2002 floods available on the internet and one of these is very pertinent - I don’t remember where I found it and I haven’t found it again since. I’d very much like to credit its owner, so if anybody finds a url for this photo - please contact me.

Floods at Pražská ulice 23 in 2002
Copyright information unknown

I love this photo, not just because it shows Our Stream having returned from the dead, but because the guy seems to be genuinely preoccupied with this particular scene - I wonder what was going through his mind? Wouldn’t it be nice to know?

I wonder if the floods refilled the water tower’s chambers? Did its old wooden water wheel turn again?

Západočeské muzeum (Museum of West Bohemia)

Drawing of the Museum of West Bohemia - 1928
Provided by George Krejci

Západočeské muzeum - Museum of West Bohemia - 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Západočeské muzeum - Museum of West Bohemia - 2003
Copyright information unknown

Západočeké muzeum v Plzni
Kopeckého sady 2
Plzeň 301 00
Czech Republic
Tel.: +420 377 329 380, +420 377 236 460

Náměstí Republiky - South

Náměstí Republiky - South - 1928
Provided by George Krejci

Náměstí Republiky - South - 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Náměstí Republiky - South - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

I’d like to talk about some of these buildings. I can’t really comment too much on their architecture - I don’t have any close-up photographs and my memory is too misty to remember any interesting details - I’d need to make a return trip… I’d like to comment a little on the changing commercial / street level face of some of them. After all, this is, historically, a very commercial area.

Náměstí Republiky - South - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Náměstí Republiky - South - 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Náměstí Republiky - South - (date unknown - late 1990s to early 2000s)
Copyright information unknown

Náměstí Republiky - South - 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Jan Merlian (Skarpalin)’s Portals, Plzeň

By the number of Jan Merlian’s portals and window surrounds to found around Plzeň, I imagine that he made a good living during the Rennaisance period.

I didn’t notice this during my visits to Plzeň but looking at photographs of Pražská Ulice and Náměstí Republiky, they seem to be a regular feature. It’s easy to see why as they are very pleasing to the eye.

I wonder if it was in fact Jan Merlian who designed them or if they were chosen by him from the catalogue of an artizan or the period? Were they, perhaps, also copied by others at later periods in history?

Pražská Ulice

Pražská 8
Copyright information unknown

Pražská 13
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Náměstí Republiky

Náměstí Republiky East
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991

Náměstí Republiky South
Copyright information unknown

Malá Ulice
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

U Salzmannů, Pražská 8

Number 8 Pražská Ulice is the site of Plzen´s oldest beerhall which dates from 1637. The pub was named after Martin Salzmann who ran it between 1858 & 1908. Salzmann was the guy who had first sent Pilsner beer to Prague in 1843.

U Salzmannů 1858 & 1908
From a postcard

Pražská Ulice in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

U Salzmannů can be seen on the righthand side of this 1950s photo (above).

U Salzmannů in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

When I first saw the building in 1991 (see photo below) it was closed and in a sorry state of repair - as was much of Pražská ulice.

U Salzmannů Plzen 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

The quality of the above photograph leaves a little to be desired - I’ll blame it on the sun shining in the wrong direction and the damage the print has received over the past 15 years. Maybe I should just blame it on my lack of skill as a photographer…

U Salzmannů Plzen 2002
Copyright information unknown

I think this later photograph, taken in 2002, shows just how nicely the building was restored.

U Salzmannů Plzen at the end of the 19th Century?
Copyright information unknown

This photograph shows Salzmannová Pivnice which would appear to be on the same site as U Salzmannů and whilst the building has obviously been replaced, the renaissance portal remains.

The University of West Bohemia explains this :

House ref. no. 90 (Prazska Street no. 8 ) “Salzmans’” (U Salzmanu) - originally a Renaissance house which master-builder Jan Merlian (or Skarpalin) built for himself in 1584.

The house was constructed afresh in 1907 and only the beautiful portal with its Italian inscription remained. The house takes its name from an owner of the inn there, who was the first to take Plzen Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) beer to Prague in 1842.

This is a helpful explanation as it’s the Renaissance portal which intrigues me. Compare U Salzmannů’s portal with that found accross the street at N° 13 : Jan Merlian’s Portals.

U Salzmannů is once again a pub, restaurant and guest house / hotel. I should love to visit it one day.

If you should have any old or new photographs of this building, I would be very interested to see them!

Restaurace a pension U Salzmannů
Pražská 8
301 00 Plzeň
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 377 235 855
Fax: +420 377 235 886

Měšťanská Beseda

The Burgher Hall, 1912
From a postcard dated 1912

Drawing of the Burgher Hall, 1928
Provided by George Krejci

Měšťanská Beseda in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Měšťanská Beseda 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Měšťanská Beseda 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

The Burgher Hall Kavárna
Copyright information unknown

The Burgher Hall Kavárna during renovation in 2001
Photograph © Copyright 2001 Atelier Soukup (Architects), Plzeň

Měšťanská beseda Plzeň
Kopeckého sady 13
Plzeň 301 00
Tel: +420 378 037 926
Fax: +420 377 227 012

Hotel Slovan, Plzeň

Grand Hotel Smitka (Hotel Slovan) 1940s
From an undated postcard

Hotel Slovan 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Hotel Slovan’s main staircase
Copyright information unknown

Hotel Slovan
Smetanovy sady 1
301 37 Plzeň
Czech Republic
Tel.: ++420 377 227 256
Fax: ++420 377 227 012

Hotel Continental, Plzeň

Hotel Continental 1950s
Copyright information unknown

Hotel Continental 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

Hotel Continental
Zbrojnická 8
305 34 Plzeň
Czech Republic
Tel.: +420 377 235 292

Náměstí Republiky

In the middle of the historical centre of Plzeň is it’s main square, Náměstí Republiky (formerly known as Velké Náměstí).

I don’t know about your experiences with Plzeň, but mine started on Náměstí Republiky. I stayed at the Hotel Central and I first ventured out on foot onto Republican Square (Náměstí Republiky).

Those first steps were to be retraced many times but the sight that my eyes saw would be different at every visit. One vision, however, that will never be removed from my mind’s eye is the view looking from Bedřicha Smetany (is it an Ulice?) onto Náměstí Republiky.

Náměstí Republiky from Bedřicha Smetany

The above print hangs on the wall of my office - I’m looking at it now - and I wouldn’t replace it with a print, painting or photograph of any other view from any other town. Ever. It inspires me and that is reason enough to leave it hanging where it is.

There are many reasons for buying the print and I am pleased I took the initiative. However (isn’t there always a “however?”) I do wish I’d managed to reproduce the print in photographic form. I tried once in 1993 but with the absence of my print, I missed the line of fire.

Náměstí Republiky from Bedřicha Smetany 1993

Looking at my photograph now and comparing it with the print, I wonder if there wasn’t an element of artistic license in the latter - If I remember correctly, I couldn’t move far enough to the left in order to include the town hall in the shot… but I seem to have missed the perspective completely anyway. Never mind - at least I tried.

I did notice that the scaffolding wasn’t present on the print…

1950s Náměstí Republiky

Náměstí Republiky in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright 1950s George Krejci

I wonder what’s going on in this photograph? My guess would be the May 1st celebrations.

Or was it Khrushchev’s visit? Given the numbers of people on the square, I can’t help thinking that there was a little more on offer than an annual festival…

khrushchev in Náměstí Republiky in the 1950s
Photograph provided by George Krejci

I don’t know the actual year of khrushchev’s visit to Plzeň, but I’d take a guess at 1956 or 1957. I would imagine he would have wanted to tour his area of control soon after taking or being given full control.

Czechoslovak Militia in Náměstí Republiky During Khrushchev’s address
Photograph provided by George Krejci

I wonder if Stalin’s statue was torn down before his visit or as a result of it?

Changing Street Names

All towns and cities have streets with names chosen by their governors. Often streets are named after important figures in the town, city or country’s historical past. For various reasons certain names can go out of fashion and streets can change identity.

The effect can go further - towns and cities, even countries can change name.

But here I’d like to talk a little about the changes in street names in Plzeň.

When I arrived in Plzeň I was looking for the Hotel Ural. I’d booked a room by telephone but had no map in the car. I remember stopping on Sady Pětatřicátníků to ask directions. The guy I asked either didn’t understand me (which I can well believe as this was the first time I’d ever tried speaking Czech) or there was something wrong in what I was asking for.

I had the name and address written on a piece of paper and so fetched this from the car to show him. He knew at once what I was looking for and gave me directions. Looking back I don’t know how I could have understood his directions and I certainly remember the feeling that there was something wrong - I didn’t really understand - but I found my hotel all the same.

The hotel was no longer known as the Ural, it was the Hotel Central.

So hotels, too, can change name.

At the hotel I was given a town guide “Plzeň, Orientační Průvodce Městem” which, of course, included a street plan of the city. Very useful!

Unfortunately I soon found out why the guide, priced at 22 Crowns, had been given to me free-of-charge - it was published in 1985 during the communist period and some of the streets have changed name since 1989.

I couldn’t find, for example, Anglické nábřeží or Americká Ulice - they had been renamed Charkovské nábřeží and Moskevská Ulice. Very confusing.

I wonder if I’ll get a chance to list all the changes, it could be fun.

Plzeň Streets Now (2000s)

Plzeň street plan 2000s (Town Centre)

Plzeň Streets in 1985

Plzeň street plan 1985 (Town Centre)

Plzeň Streets in the 1930s

Plzeň street plan 1930s (Town Centre)

Plzeň Streets in 1912

Plzeň street plan 1912 (Town Centre)
Street plan provided by George Krejci

Plzeň Hlavní Nádraží

Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží

Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží
Photo from George Krejci’s website

Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží
Photograph © Copyright 1950s George Krejci

I’d really like to thank George Krejci for sending me this fantastic early color photograph (above) from his collection. It’s a great addition to this section - a wonderful photograph! Thanks George!

An evening shot of Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží 1950s
Photograph © Copyright 1950s George Krejci

This is another great photo from George - it shows Gottwaldovo Nádraží in the evening with the sign and star iluminated.

Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží 1967
Copyright information unknown

Plzeň Gottwaldovo Nádraží 1968
Photo from George Krejci’s website

Plzeň Hlavní Nádraží
Copyright information unknown

Plzeň Hlavní Nádraží
Copyright information unknown

Bory Prison

Bory Prison, Plzeň
Photograph © Copyright Vězeňská Služba České Republiky

Bory Prison. It’s not a pleasing sentance, is it? Bory Prison. But it’s a fantastic building! The first time I saw it I didn’t realise it was a prison - I had no idea what it was, but I was impressed by it’s design.

I first saw this building at ground level and from a moving car. I was driving, so I didn’t get a good look. I just remember the impression it left.

It’s a very difficult building to find information about - try searching the internet for “bory prison”. I guarantee you won’t find much.

My searches came up with a story about two murderers who escaped by hiding in a pallet; the horrors of the second world war and, if my memory serves me justly, the fact that Václav Havel spent some time there.

Bory Prison from the Air
Photograph © Copyright Letecká Škola, Plzeň

Bory Prison from the Air
Photograph © Copyright mapy.cz / seznam.cz / Geodis

The main entrance to Bory Prison
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

A View of Bory Prison 1928
Provided by George Krejci

Věznice Plzeň
Klatovská 202
P.O.BOX 335
301 00 Plzeň
Czech Republic

Pražská Ulice 13 - My House? Well, no…

Ok, well it’s not my house but back in 1991 - 1993 I would have liked it to have been. I had a dream to buy this house (picture below), secure a job in Plzeň - perhaps at the brewery, the bank or the Škoda works, anywhere - but it didn’t happen.

My House? 1992
Photograph © Copyright 1992 Fred Porter

I haven’t been back to Plzeň since 1993 in fact I haven’t been to the Czech Republic since October 1994 which is a great shame. I’d love to go and visit “my house” and see how it scrubbed up. I often wonder what became of it but the only trace of it I have found on the internet is a tiny terracotta roof in an aerial photograph of the old town centre.

My House? 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The building is, if my memory serves me correctly, on the corner of Pražská Ulice and Perlová Ulice just off náměstí Republiky.

My House? Now
Copyright information unknown

I just found this photo (above) which was taken from the spire of St. Bartholomew’s church - I’ve tried to show my house’s roof.

Can anybody help me by sending me a recent phtograph of the building?

If anybody should have a photograph of the building before it fell into disrepair I would love to see that too!

Any information and / or photographs would be enormously appreciated!

More Recent Photos of My House

Thanks to Eva for pointing these photographs out to me!

My house from plzen-city.cz 1
Photograph © Copyright Město Plzeň

This photo shows My House when looking down Pražská Ulice from the Náměstí Republiky end.

My house from plzen-city.cz 2
Photograph © Copyright Město Plzeň

This shows a view of My House from the other end of Pražská Ulice - a similar view to my old 1993 photograph.

The Sundial on My house
Photo by Mira

This picture shows the sundial added to the face of My House.

Since identifying My House (thanks Eva!) I now know a little about it’s current life. It is apparently an art gallery, part of the West Bohemian Gallery and is known as Výstnaví Sín „13” (Exhibition Rooms “13″) and is registered as a building of historical importance (Number 83).

A Final Comparison

I don’t know how to thank Eva enough - she actually went out and took photographs of My House for me! One of her fantastic photographs was taken from an almost identical angle to one I took in 1993 so now I can do a before and after comparison.

Before

My house 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

After

My house 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

One thing which became evident to me while comparing the two photographs is that the sundial was present in 1991 and 1993. It appears that the house’s cladding was removed - perhaps as an early step in the restoration process - but that the area around the sundial was left.

My house 2006 Looking South along Perlová ulice
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová

I’d now like more than ever to see photographs of the building prior to 1991. So if you have any, please contact me. It would be very interesting!

My House pre-1991

My house 1987
Photograph © Copyright 1987 J. Hertl from tramvaje.plzenskamhd.net

This photo was a great find. I didn’t bookmark the site it came from so I can’t credit or link to it - I apologise to the site owner for that and will be happy to rectify the situation should anybody make me awayre of the url.

But it’s exactly what I was looking for (I’d have prefered the tram not to have been there). It shows that in 1987 My House had it’s cladding and it shows that the buildings around it were already undergoing a first stage of renovation. So the renovation of Plzeň didn’t start after 1989 - it was already underway. I’m so pleased to have found this photograph!

My House in 1959?

My house 1959
Copyright information unknown

Can you believe it? I can’t! My House in 1959! Just imagine the feeling of joy when I first saw this one!

Interestingly, we can see here that the building was used for commercial purposes - look at those twin shop front windows. A clue to this is obvious in the right-hand side window in my 1990s phtotgraphs. I’m very, very pleased with this one!

I’ve found evidence that number 13 Pražská ulice was once a restaurant. Perhaps this 1959 photograph shows My Restaurant? At the turn of the century (circa 1900), the restaurant was named “Svoboda.”

My house 1975
Copyright Statni pamatkovy ustav v Plzni assumed

This is a great photograph because it shows a number of things. It shows that in 1975 My House was multi-purpose: The right-hand side was used as a hardware store, the left-hand side was used for another business (I can’t tell what that might have been from the photograph) and we can see that the central doorway was totally seperate and probably lead to apartments on the first floor.

The back part of My House is clearly seperated and has its own entrance on Perlová ulice.

I feel a little guilty about using this photograph as it comes from a book Plzeň 1965 - 2000 published by Starý Most and is subject to copyright. I’m not sure who owns the copyright of this particular photograph although I have written to npu.cz requesting permission to use it. So far I have received no reply but I think its use here is useful for our needs and I hope that this won’t cause any problems. I’d like to thank Eva for making me aware of this photograph and would stress that any resulting copyright infringement is totally my responsibility.
Clive Porter, 20 May 2006

My house some time before 1918
Copyright Statni pamatkovy ustav v Plzni assumed

This is another copyrighted photograph for which I’ve requested permission - this one comes from the book Plzeň 1880 – 1935 also published by Starý Most.

What can I say about this photo? We can see that the right-hand side of the building appears to be a wholsesale hardware store. But here it would appear that both the left-hand side and the centre are used for two seperate commercial purposes. I think the sign above the first floor may say A. Svoboda which would seem to relate to the restaurant which I originally thought to be in My House.

But where is Jan Merlian’s portal / doorway? It certainly doesn’t seem to be present in this photograph and so must have been added at a later date. But where did it come from? The sundial is also missing.

Painting by B. Hochman of My house dated 1916
From a Postcard

Now that I have this postcard, I can see that My House wasn’t a restaurant - the sign for Restaurant Svoboda points down Perlová ulice. The shop on the right-hand side is K Smetana which was the hardware store as seen in the previous photograph.

I wonder which building on Perlová was the restaurant? My guess would be number 8 but I’d like to find out for sure.

I still want more…

Výstnaví Sín „13”
Pražská 13
301 14 Plzen
Tel: +420 377 223 759, +420 377 223 948
Fax: +420 377 322 970

Tags: Prazska ulice, Plzen, Pilsen

The Brewery (Pivovar)

Brewery gates 1991 - Plzeňský Prazdroj
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Notice in this photograph that the brewery’s signpost says “Plzeňský Prazdroj” whereas in the second picture (below) this has been replaced with a sign saying “Pilsner Urquell”.

In order to strengthen international corporate and brand identity, the name Plzeňský Prazdroj was dropped in favour of the German name “Pilsner Urquell” which was already being used in the largest markets.

Brewery gates 1993 - Pilsner Urquell
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

A second and, in my opinion, more important change (excluding the flower garden) is the fact that one of the gates is open. This shows the transition from closed industrial plant to open public monument. This change will be further discussed later in this post.

Plzeňský Pivovar prior to 1991

Plzeňský Pivovar 1983
Copyright information unknown

You may notice that I haven’t posted the crowd photos yet. I had to put that on hold because I found this magnificent photograph of the brewery gates in 1983.

Notice that one of the brewery gates is open. That seems to negate my earlier comments… The red star is quite obviously there too and the slogan Nositel Řádu Práce which I have been unable to translate - can anybody help with that?

The Brewery Gates in 1960
Photographer: J I Sykes, Photograph © Copyright University of St Andrews Library photographic archive

Thanks to the Unitversity of St Andrews for their kind permission to include the above photograph which clearly shows the same brewery sign seen in the 1950s (see below).

The Brewery Gates in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

I want to thank George for sending me this fantastic picture of the brewery gates in the 1950s. The star here is just an outline - similar to that found at the main train station. The sign over the door says “Plzeňské Pivovary” and “Národní Podnik” (National Company).

It’s a great photo!

The Brewery Gates Since 1993

The gates were restored (again) in the late 1990s
Copyright information unknown

The gates in 2002
Copyright information unknown

There seem to be some familiar elements missing from the scene in the above photograph.

The most obvious is, perhaps, the sign which, by 2002, would have said Pilsner Urquell. Also missing, though are the steps and the door up to which they lead.

The Brewery Shop

Brewery gates 1991 - Plzeňský Prazdroj
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Fred Porter

I know, we can’t see the shop can we? Well, in 1991 the shop was housed in the building to the right as we look at the brewery gates. The door is, unfortunately, hidden behind the tourist coach.

Every visit I made included a final visit to the brewery - to buy a box of beer from the shop. A box would include 12 500ml bottles of the world’s best beer but the interesting thing about it was that I would never know which labels would be on the bottles - sometimes they were labelled in Czech, sometimes in Russian, German, etc. Perhaps I should have kept some of the labels - people sell them on ebay these days!

The Brewery Restaurant

In 1991 Plzeň’s brewery restaurant Restaurace Prazdroj was one of my favourite places to eat. It was fairly small with long tables which encouraged people to talk. The food was excellent and with a steady flow of the world’s best beer, conversation was an inevitability - an excellent way to make new friends. The atmosphere was unique.

Restaurace Prazdroj 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Restaurace Prazdroj 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

The restaurant was, unfortunately, closed in 1992 or 1993. This too was inevitable as the sheer numbers of visitors wanting to eat and try a beer or two were just to great.

So a new restaurant, “Na Spilce”, was opened within the brewery grounds.

Restaurace Na Spilce
Copyright information unknown

Na Spilce is a much larger restaurant and caters for many more customers than the old restaurant could cope with. It’s sadly lacking in the atmosphere which made Restaurace Prazdroj so enjoyable.

Inside the Brewery Yard

In 1991 I found it very difficult to enter into the brewery yard. The gates were shut and repeated attempts at ringing on the bell often yielded no response. I did manage to enter, but only in order to be told that brewery tours were by appointment only and that I should consult with Čedok (I can’t think why.)

In 1992 the gates were opening and a list of brewery tour times was posted - they were tentative and dependant on a guide being available. No guide was ever available for me in 1992 but I did get to talk to some very nice people.

Inside the brewery yard in 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

In 1993 tours were not only easily available, but regular and crowded.

Did I say crowded? In 1993? You should see them now!

Inside the brewery yard 2004
Photograph from the EPDIC website

I’d like to see more early photographs - any offers?

Prohlídky Pivovaru Plzeň
U Prazdroje 7
304 97 Plzeň
Tel.: +420 377 061 111
Fax: +420 377 062 230

For some interesting recent photographs of the brewery, visit : Fotoalbum českých pivovarů - Plzeňský Prazdroj

Hotel Central, Plzeň

Amongst the many changes to take place in Plzeň during the cold war years, none can be more lastingly obvious than the replacement of the old Hotel Central on Náměstí Republiky by the current buidling.

During the communist era, the Hotel Central was renamed the Hotel Ural but reverted to its original name in 1989.

Hotel Central 1962
Photo from the Plzeňská ekologická nadace (Pilsen Ecological Institute) web site

The above picture shows the original Hotel Central the architecture of which fits much better into its surroundings than the current structure (below) although I can’t help feeling that it was predated by something more fitting.

Hotel Central circa 2000
Copyright information unknown

The Hotel Central holds a special place in my heart as it provided me with a place to sleep during my first visit to Plzeň in 1991.

Hotel Central 1991 (The yellow car on the left was mine)
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

Due to its blatent ugliness and open representation of all that brings to mind an iron-curtain Czech architecture, the hotel doesn’t figure on many peoples holiday snaps. For this reason, finding photographs of the buidling is not an easy task.

Hotel Central 2005
from the Hotel Central Website

Despite its incongrous looks from the outside, the Hotel Central is a great place to stay and, since it’s refurbishment in the mid-90s, earns each of its four stars.

I am currently searching for more photographs both of the old and new buidlings and would be eternally grateful to anybody who is able to provide these. If you should have one or more photographs which you’d like to share, please leave a comment with your e-mail address (your e-mail address will not be visible on the internet).

Hotel Ural detail from an envelope
from a Hotel Ural Envelope 1980s

Hotel Central
náměstí Republiky 33
301 00 Plzeň
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 377 226 757, +420 844 116 666

Tags: Plzeň, Pilsen, hotel, hotel central, hotel ural, czech republic

Plzeň is the capital city of the Plzeň Region (Plzeňský kraj) of Western Bohemia in the Czech Republic (Česká Republika). Plzeň is located around 90 km west of Prague (Praha) at the confluence of four rivers: Radbuza, Mže, Úslava and Úhlava.

Plzeň
Copyright information unknown

A Brief History of Plzeň (Pilsen)

The earliest documentary evidence of Plzeň dates to the year 976 when a mention of Plzeň Castle was recorded.

Modern Plzeň was founded in 1295 when King Wenceslas II (Václav II) granted Plzeň its civic charter. Designed by the royal architect Jindřich, Plzeň was constructed at the crossroads of two important trade routes linking Bohemia with Nürnberg and Regensburg.

In the 14th century Plzeň, covering an area of 20 hectares and comprising of 14 streets and squares with 290 houses, was the third-largest town in Bohemia following Prague and Kutná Hora.

During the Hussite Wars it was the centre of catholic resistance to the Hussites; it was thrice unsuccessfully besieged by Prokop the Great, and it took part in the league of the Romanist nobles against King George of Podebrady. The first printing press was established here in 1468.

King Rudolf II made Plzeň his seat from 1599-1600. During the Thirty Years’ War the town was taken by Mansfeld in 1618 after the Siege of Plzeň and not recaptured by the Imperialists until 1621. Wallenstein made it his winter-quarters in 1633. The town was unsuccessfully besieged by the Swedes in 1637 and 1648.

At the end of the 17th century Plzeň’s architecture began to be influenced by the Baroque style; the historic city center has been historically preserved since 1989.

At the end of the Second World War, on May 6, 1945, Plzeň and Western Bohemia were liberated from the Nazis by General Patton’s 3rd Army, unlike the rest of Czechoslovakia, which was taken by the Red Army. The Yalta Conference has placed Czechoslovakia in Soviet sphere of influence and Patton had to withdraw shortly after the armistice. Liberation of Pilsen and Western Bohemia by the 3rd Army was essentially erased from history books by the former Czechoslovak Communist Regime and has only recently entered public consciousness again. There is a monument dedicated to the 3rd Army from the people of Plzeň, thanking them for liberation, located at the start of Americká Ulice (American Street).

Since the second half of the 1990s the city has experienced high growth in foreign investment.

Plzeň is the second largest city of Bohemia and the center of academic, business and cultural life for Western Czech Republic. The University of West Bohemia, headquartered here, is well-known for its School of Engineering, School of Law and Department of Applied Mathematics.

Economic Matters

Plzeň makes up approximately two-thirds of the GDP of the Western Bohemia Region, even though it contains only 29.8% of the region’s population.[1] Based on these figures, the city of Plzeň has a total GDP of approximately $7.2 billion, and a per-capita GDP of $44,000, making it one of the most prosperous cities in the Czech Republic.

There are many foreign companies who now have manufacturing bases in Plzeň including Daikin and Panasonic. Given the large investments in infastructure currently visible within the city and surrounding areas one can only predict this will continue. There is a large Industrial Park located to the West of the Main city, which looks modern and well laid out, with good transport links to the nearly 100% complete E50 Motorway straight to Nürnberg (190 km) or in the opposite direction to Prague (90 km).

Interest

Plzeň is famous for its Pilsener beer, one brand of which is Pilsner Urquell, and produced since 1842, and for the Škoda Works engineering factory established by Emil Škoda in 1859. The most prominent monuments are the Gothic church of St. Bartholomew, said to date from 1292, whose tower (100 m) is the highest in the Czech Republic, the Renaissance town hall dating from the 16th century, and the third largest synagogue in the world (after Jerusalem and Budapest). There is also an historic underground tunnel/cellar network open to the public for tours, up to 3 chambers deep running under parts of the Old Town.