Below, you’ll find many people who sell boats, and how to go about dealing with them:

Private sellers looking to upgrade
These sellers are those who have outgrown their current boat and are looking to buy something bigger. Normally, they are knowledgeable and take care of their boats. They are also less than likely to give you a
great deal, as they need the money for their next boat. They are also likely to strip the boat of electronics and accessories, as they need them for their next boat.

Private sellers wanting out
These types of sellers decide to sell their boat because they don’t use it much. Even though it may sound great because the boat may have sat for a long time, this is actually a bad thing. When a boat
sits for a long period of time, the boots can crack, batteries can dry up, and many other things can happen.

Sellers who want out may not have maintained their boat well, as they didn’t have a passion for it. You can get a good deal with these sellers, although you should be prepared to make some repairs after
you make the purchase.

Forced sales
Sometimes, you are able to find an experienced boater who is selling due to an injury or disability. Many times, these boats come well equipped and have been very maintained. These boats sell quick, as you can normally get a great deal because the seller needs the
money.

Private sellers who aren’t serious
These types of sellers aren’t serious about their boats, as they are trying to get a high price so they can buy a lower priced boat. They normally don’t care if they sell the boat. If they can’t get
a high price, they will normally keep the boat. They should be avoided, as they can be very frustrating to deal with.

Dealers
Dealers of used boats normally get their boats on trade or consignment. They know how to make the boat attractive, although most times they don’t know the history of the boat too well. Dealers are more middle men, as they have a profit margin that has
to be met.

Brokers
These sellers normally don’t waste time with smaller boats, as reputable brokers can easily put together high dollar sells. They aren’t really the ones to help you, as they aren’t likely to help you get a
great price on a boat.

When you decide to buy your boat, always proceed with caution and really think about who you plan to buy the boat from. This can help you get the best possible price, avoid headaches, and help you get
what you want. There are many sellers available, all
you have to do is compare prices and see what each
one has to offer you and your family.

From time to time I’ve been asked the question “I’d love to own a small boat, is it hard to build one?” It’s really surprising the looks of doubt when I answer, “No, no, no! If you know what to do and you’re willing to invest a little time you can do it easily!” The next questions that usually follow are “How much time?” and “How much will it cost?” Well, generally speaking, that really is the “How long is a piece of string question!” and it can vary quite a bit.

People differ of course, and what may take two or three weekends for one may painstakingly for others, take a couple of months. The short answer is, “It depends how fast you work, but two or three weekends should be average at a rough guess.” In 1998 the Wooden Boat Association chose a Dolphin 16 to construct at the ‘Down by the River Festival’ at Brisbane. In spite of several cases of VB’s the boys managed to build a 16′ Dolphin (non sailing version) in two afternoons and present it to a lucky prizewinner.

HOW MUCH?

Once again, quite tricky, some folks will splash out on camel hair paintbrushes and six pairs of throwaway overalls and new gloves… already they’ve spent thirty odd dollars more than the next chap who still has his fist wrapped around his dollars. For the average homebuilder they should be able to construct this boat for approximately $700.00 to $1000.00, if they don’t take into account their own time. Thirty to forty hours labour should be sufficient to complete this project to a reasonable standard. Remember, cost for materials vary greatly all over the country and this must be taken into consideration!

WHAT SORT OF BOAT IS THIS?

The DOLPHIN 12

Firstly, it’s a simple composite epoxy and glass ply boat, just under twelve feet by six feet in beam, big enough for a couple of adults and a motor roughly up to five to seven hp. It’s stable, open, has a couple of seats and will take inshore waters in its stride. I prefer to think of it as an open family/fishing craft that can be used in rivers, estuaries and lakes.

The DOLPHIN 16…POWER AND SAILING VERSIONS

This is basically the same as the 12 but is made of 4.5 sheets of 6mm ply and is strengthened more for the sailing version by way of extra glass in the chainplate areas and longitudinal stringers for the floors. There are three rigs to choose from. The ‘Batwing Gunter Rig’, the ‘Balanced Lug Sail’ or the ‘Standing Lug Rig’. See diagrams. In addition, the sailing version has a 10′ x 10″ keel that is ballasted by the inclusion of two 35 kilo lead ingots glassed into the keel during construction. Also, there is a rudder constructed of Oregon, coated in glass. Please note that a simpler plywood and glass version can also be built if required. The mast is a solid Oregon piece 12′ with an 8′ spar for the standing lug rig version.

THE DOLPHIN 19 KETCH

The 19 foot Ketch is the latest addition to the fleet. She also is a frameless boat, an extended Dolphin 16 with a couple of additions. The dimensions are 19 foot by six foot beam and she has a 20 inch freeboard but this can be extended to 22 inches at the expense of the sheer line curve. There is a 5 foot foredeck that leads back to the main mast. This mast is situated immediately behind the bulkhead that the deck itself sits on. There is ample storage under this deck for extra flotation or gear storage as required. Entrance to this area is through the cutout in the bulkhead.

The craft has the choice of two keel configurations, an eighteen inch keel or a twelve inch keel depth that runs approx. two thirds along the boat’s length. This is constructed from solid Oregon and provides the strong backbone needed for the frameless design. There is also provision for twin bilge keels that allow easy beaching and use of a slightly more shallow keel, around 9/10 inches. Ballast for the boat is four lead ingots that are built into the keel itself and is approximately 150 lbs in weight. It is envisaged that the boat, ballasted, should be in the area of some 450 lbs (210 kgs) unloaded.

The rig is a twin mast Ketch configuration with a jib area of 19 square feet, the mainsail, 56.5 sq. feet and the mizzen mast, 24 sq. feet in area. This is approx 100 sq. feet total sail area. The rig is a standing lug, boomless with a top spar approximately eight feet long. A gaff rig is also possible for this boat, in fact the first Dolphin 19 customer in South Australia has opted for this rig. The craft is designed to sail with jib and mizzen alone and should provide much more room aboard in this configuration. For any prolonged jib/mizzen configuration a slightly larger jib area would provide better sail balance and power.

The twin masts are either clear Oregon or clear spruce but the spruce alternative would be fairly expensive! They are planed round from four inch square stock and are quick to make if an electric planer is used. They are soaked in epoxy and then finished in anti ultra violet varnish to prevent ‘milking’ of the epoxy. An unusual feature of this design is the twin galvanized wire stays on each mast. This gives a traditional look but also adds a significant safety factor. The solid Oregon chain plates, placed outboard of the hull provide an attractive old fashioned classic look to this very versatile little sailing craft.

As with all the Dolphin range the hull is beamy and commences with a vee sectioned bow that falls away to a flatter 7 degree hull bottom to provide plenty of beam stability. There is no floor in this design but that is not to say that one could not be easily added if required. The primary reason for not including a floor in the original design was for access to the bilge area for cleaning and to prevent water lying in the boat unseen, a primary cause of damage in boats left unattended for a while.

The boat is designed to take an outboard engine (10-12 hp approx) that could be attached to the transom with an outboard bracket but it is possible to fit an inboard if required. This necessitates the addition of engine beds and a floor and was omitted really because of the extra time and labour required to install.

This craft was designed with intention to provide a versatile easy to build ‘proper little boat’ for the owner that would like a boat that is a ‘no fuss’ design that can be built using very simple, easy build techniques that really do away with excess build times. There is nothing more frustrating than hacking way for weeks building complicated frames that must interlock with sophisticated “mortise and tenon joints” and the like, requiring quite advanced woodworking skills that are generally just a bit beyond the average D.I.Y. chap. If you can use a jig saw, tape measure and a sanding machine and mix up epoxy glue, the Dolphin 19 will be an easy project for you. Don’t forget that we are only a phone call away and pride ourselves in our after sales ‘help line’ that is available for advice and help anytime during normal hours!!

The Dolphin 19, with its simple, two page A1 plan and instruction book does away with the need for tiresome lofting and calculations normally required. It really is more like a simple case of ‘join the dots’ building that the Dolphins are becoming well known for. A hundred and fifty owners can’t all be wrong!!

WHAT SORT OF CONSTRUCTION IS IT?

Basically, the 12 footer is built from three sheets and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 16 footer from four and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 19 foot Ketch, six sheets of 1220 x 2440. They are built using a simple ’stitch and glue’ method using epoxy resin glue thickened with Q-Cells or Microspheres and then layered on the outside with a strong layer of 300 gm biaxial glass cloth and epoxy resin. The instructions contained in the plan fully detail to the last degree every technique that will be needed to build these boats. The plans, known as the ‘easybuild’ method requires no complicated lofting but a very simple ‘join the dots’ method that can be drawn directly onto the ply. For example, the whole boat (a 12) can be drawn up in one afternoon and all the shapes cut out. The finished weight, minus motor, is approximately thirty odd kilos depending on the weight of ply, epoxy and glass that you use. The transom is a single piece of ply approximately 20mm in width. Built with these composite materials, it’s strong, tough, extremely light and with care will last for years.

SAILS AND SAILING GEAR

All dimensions for the above gear are supplied with the plan and all equipment is available from any local chandlers. The gear required is simple, cheap and easy to build for a first time builder.

WHAT TOOLS WILL I NEED?

Not many. A jigsaw, clamps, an orbital sander, a drill and perhaps an electric planer and a belt sander with a few assorted grade belts would be handy!

Materials - 4 sheets ply for 12′…4.5 sheets for 16′…6 sheets ply for 19’

Plywood sheets 1220mm x 2440mm ply, suitable for boatbuilding. There are many and various makes and grades and I’ll not enter into that can of worms, suffice to say that with the use of epoxy composites you will not be restricted necessarily to ‘marine ply’.

1 piece 15mm ply 3’ x 6’.

Approximately 6 metres 300gm bi-axial fibreglass cloth.

12 litres Epoxy resin.

Q-Cells or Microspheres.

Various assorted widths of Hoop Pine or Meranti 40mm x 10mm for rubbing strakes.

Materials required for the sails and sailing gear will be listed in the plans and can be varied if required upon advice from your rigger or sail maker.

Terry Buddell

It’s a known fact that boating magazines have been responsible for spreading strange afflictions to many unsuspecting NP’s (normal people) many of whom started out in their blighted lives innocently glancing through the pages of one of those aforementioned ‘Mags’ without realising the terrible dangers they were being exposed to.

These normal people (I was once one) are well known for their pitying sideways glances at the aqueously inclined subspecies known generally as ‘boaties, yachties’ and sometimes worse, ‘grotty yachties’.

Many of these NP’s frequent their local yacht clubs because the view over the water is wonderful, the chips are good and it’s possible to hobnob with people so rich that they don’t even own a boat. These elevated types are fawned and fondled over by the Commodore and are considered above questioning about such mundane exploits such as sailing, hoisting the yardarm and all that stuff. In fact, if a yachtie who could actually afford to keep his craft in such a place for a night or two, let alone the membership fees, dared to splash a dab of paint onto his “Lucky Lady IV” he’d run a real risk of being chucked out of the aforementioned establishment for lowering the tone of the joint.

However, I digress. It’s very difficult in many cases to pinpoint exactly which event causes the cerebral flash that causes many a sane man to crossover into the murky world of sawdust, sheds, spiling and tantric sawing and it’s said, in certain quarters, that it’s not at all like getting chickenpox or mumps because they actually go away after a bit. It is actually like getting religion, you know, the soul becomes permanently contaminated forever.

It’s a transformation, a ‘seeing of the light’ and the victim once hooked, is totally unaware that for evermore he will alienate the wife, mother-in-law and kids, ruin every stitch of clothing with epoxy and paint, wear the strangest of shoes, forget to mow the lawn and the oddest symptom of all, he will almost never again possess tidy hair or clean knees again.

The victim AI (after infection) will take to the shed, rifle the rent jar, convert the life savings into wood and begin to smell of paint, wood glue and acetone. Steadily growing piles of BM’s appear (boating mags) and the daily arrival of the postman will result in muffled chuckles of demented glee from the shed as he rips the wrapping off a new scarfing machine or a number 3 Stanley plane, now banned in many hardware shops (well, they must be, you can’t find one for love nor money these days).

It’s been statistically proven, in many cases wives and kids threaten to leave home and if they do, it’s a bad thing because the house becomes ‘workshop two’. Turps bottles replace milk cartons, the hallway becomes a parking lot ideally shaped for that unfinished catamaran hull, the fridge becomes a store for mixed–up epoxy glue which in turn, makes the bacon smell and taste of styrene, (which, of course in many cases, is a vast improvement).

Now the family dog begins advanced self-training and learns how to take itself for walkies, turns gradually feral and gnaws off cuts of cedar wood instead of bones.

The victim now tries frantically to save ready cash to make the bi-annual pilgrimage to the Holiest of holy Mecca’s, The Wooden Boat Show in Tasmania where he will mingle freely with other afflicted souls (well, at least the Government know where they all are at once, I suppose) Upon his return and surrounded by a holy glow, the shed will again echo to the whine of drill and the hypnotic drone of sander deep into the night. So deeply smitten, our man will by now no longer be able to know the difference between a few seconds and several hours, cups of tea will grow cold, old and mouldy and gradually be swallowed by the all invading sawdust.

The actual object of his attentions takes various forms. It may, to all intents and purposes, look like a perfectly ordinary kayak, a harmless skiff or a pleasant rowing boat but don’t be fooled for an instant. The Devil takes many forms and temptation is never far from the afflicted. You’d think, wouldn’t you, that once the fellow had purged these primeval urges, he would repent, hoover the house, delouse and retrain the dog, dispose of the empty stubbies and fall on his knees and beg the wife to return to a life of neat lawns and crisply ironed shirts.

But it is, I’m led to believe, a matter of record that once caught, this dreadful disease ruins the brain and is etched forever into the psyche that controls all human will and like smack cocaine, chocolate, rum and sex, once tasted, will never leave the victim in peace. Despite all promises to the contrary, he will return to his old habits and stroke timber planks and drool unknowingly over the freely available porn of boating magazines that lie in wait for yet more victims on the shelves of every newsagent in the land.

Footnote one:
It is a confirmed scientific fact that male persons are much more likely to become infected than the female gender, but in one well known documented case, a decent lady turned into a yachty, gathered other females about her, got a boat and damned well sailed right round the world.

Footnote two:
A well known publisher of such material who shall remain nameless but is known in the trade as “Pusher” (P.L.) when interviewed about his interests in these magazines, declined to comment except for one sentence only and I quote: “Whatever floats yer boat, mate!”

Terry Buddell

From time to time I’ve been asked the question “I’d love to own a l boat, is it hard to build one?” It’s really surprising the looks of doubt when I answer, “No, no, no! If you know what to do and you’re willing to invest a little time you can do it easily!” The next questions that usually follow are “How much time?” and “How much will it cost?” Well, generally speaking, that really is the “How long is a piece of string question!” and it can vary quite a bit.

People differ of course, and what may take two or three weekends for one may painstakingly for others, take a couple of months. The short answer is, “It depends how fast you work, but two or three weekends should be average at a rough guess.” In 1998 the Wooden Boat Association chose a Dolphin 16 to construct at the ‘Down by the River Festival’ at Brisbane. In spite of several cases of VB’s the boys managed to build a 16′ Dolphin (non sailing version) in two afternoons and present it to a lucky prizewinner.

HOW MUCH?
Once again, quite tricky, some folks will splash out on camel hair paintbrushes and six pairs of throwaway overalls and new gloves… already they’ve spent thirty odd dollars more than the next chap who still has his fist wrapped around his dollars. For the average homebuilder they should be able to construct this boat for approximately $700.00 to $1000.00, if they don’t take into account their own time. Thirty to forty hours labour should be sufficient to complete this project to a reasonable standard. Remember, cost for materials vary greatly all over the country and this must be taken into consideration!

WHAT SORT OF BOAT IS THIS?

The DOLPHIN 12

Firstly, it’s a simple composite epoxy and glass ply boat, just under twelve feet by six feet in beam, big enough for a couple of adults and a motor roughly up to five to seven hp. It’s stable, open, has a couple of seats and will take inshore waters in its stride. I prefer to think of it as an open family/fishing craft that can be used in rivers, estuaries and lakes.

The DOLPHIN 16…POWER AND SAILING VERSIONS

This is basically the same as the 12 but is made of 4.5 sheets of 6mm ply and is strengthened more for the sailing version by way of extra glass in the chainplate areas and longitudinal stringers for the floors. There are three rigs to choose from. The ‘Batwing Gunter Rig’, the ‘Balanced Lug Sail’ or the ‘Standing Lug Rig’. See diagrams. In addition, the sailing version has a 10′ x 10″ keel that is ballasted by the inclusion of two 35 kilo lead ingots glassed into the keel during construction. Also, there is a rudder constructed of Oregon, coated in glass. Please note that a simpler plywood and glass version can also be built if required. The mast is a solid Oregon piece 12′ with an 8′ spar for the standing lug rig version.

THE DOLPHIN 19 KETCH

The 19 foot Ketch is the latest addition to the fleet. She also is a frameless boat, an extended Dolphin 16 with a couple of additions. The dimensions are 19 foot by six foot beam and she has a 20 inch freeboard but this can be extended to 22 inches at the expense of the sheer line curve. There is a 5 foot foredeck that leads back to the main mast. This mast is situated immediately behind the bulkhead that the deck itself sits on. There is ample storage under this deck for extra flotation or gear storage as required. Entrance to this area is through the cutout in the bulkhead.

The craft has the choice of two keel configurations, an eighteen inch keel or a twelve inch keel depth that runs approx. two thirds along the boat’s length. This is constructed from solid Oregon and provides the strong backbone needed for the frameless design. There is also provision for twin bilge keels that allow easy beaching and use of a slightly more shallow keel, around 9/10 inches. Ballast for the boat is four lead ingots that are built into the keel itself and is approximately 150 lbs in weight. It is envisaged that the boat, ballasted, should be in the area of some 450 lbs (210 kgs) unloaded.

The rig is a twin mast Ketch configuration with a jib area of 19 square feet, the mainsail, 56.5 sq. feet and the mizzen mast, 24 sq. feet in area. This is approx 100 sq. feet total sail area. The rig is a standing lug, boomless with a top spar approximately eight feet long. A gaff rig is also possible for this boat, in fact the first Dolphin 19 customer in South Australia has opted for this rig. The craft is designed to sail with jib and mizzen alone and should provide much more room aboard in this configuration. For any prolonged jib/mizzen configuration a slightly larger jib area would provide better sail balance and power.

The twin masts are either clear Oregon or clear spruce but the spruce alternative would be fairly expensive! They are planed round from four inch square stock and are quick to make if an electric planer is used. They are soaked in epoxy and then finished in anti ultra violet varnish to prevent ‘milking’ of the epoxy. An unusual feature of this design is the twin galvanized wire stays on each mast. This gives a traditional look but also adds a significant safety factor. The solid Oregon chain plates, placed outboard of the hull provide an attractive old fashioned classic look to this very versatile little sailing craft.

As with all the Dolphin range the hull is beamy and commences with a vee sectioned bow that falls away to a flatter 7 degree hull bottom to provide plenty of beam stability. There is no floor in this design but that is not to say that one could not be easily added if required. The primary reason for not including a floor in the original design was for access to the bilge area for cleaning and to prevent water lying in the boat unseen, a primary cause of damage in boats left unattended for a while.

The boat is designed to take an outboard engine (10-12 hp approx) that could be attached to the transom with an outboard bracket but it is possible to fit an inboard if required. This necessitates the addition of engine beds and a floor and was omitted really because of the extra time and labour required to install.

This craft was designed with intention to provide a versatile easy to build ‘proper little boat’ for the owner that would like a boat that is a ‘no fuss’ design that can be built using very simple, easy build techniques that really do away with excess build times. There is nothing more frustrating than hacking way for weeks building complicated frames that must interlock with sophisticated “mortise and tenon joints” and the like, requiring quite advanced woodworking skills that are generally just a bit beyond the average D.I.Y. chap. If you can use a jig saw, tape measure and a sanding machine and mix up epoxy glue, the Dolphin 19 will be an easy project for you. Don’t forget that we are only a phone call away and pride ourselves in our after sales ‘help line’ that is available for advice and help anytime during normal hours!!

The Dolphin 19, with its simple, two page A1 plan and instruction book does away with the need for tiresome lofting and calculations normally required. It really is more like a simple case of ‘join the dots’ building that the Dolphins are becoming well known for. A hundred and fifty owners can’t all be wrong!!

WHAT SORT OF CONSTRUCTION IS IT?

Basically, the 12 footer is built from three sheets and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 16 footer from four and a half sheets of 1220 x 2440 6mm plywood and the 19 foot Ketch, six sheets of 1220 x 2440. They are built using a simple ’stitch and glue’ method using epoxy resin glue thickened with Q-Cells or Microspheres and then layered on the outside with a strong layer of 300 gm biaxial glass cloth and epoxy resin. The instructions contained in the plan fully detail to the last degree every technique that will be needed to build these boats. The plans, known as the ‘easybuild’ method requires no complicated lofting but a very simple ‘join the dots’ method that can be drawn directly onto the ply. For example, the whole boat (a 12) can be drawn up in one afternoon and all the shapes cut out. The finished weight, minus motor, is approximately thirty odd kilos depending on the weight of ply, epoxy and glass that you use. The transom is a single piece of ply approximately 20mm in width. Built with these composite materials, it’s strong, tough, extremely light and with care will last for years.

SAILS AND SAILING GEAR

All dimensions for the above gear are supplied with the plan and all equipment is available from any local chandlers. The gear required is simple, cheap and easy to build for a first time builder.

WHAT TOOLS WILL I NEED?

Not many. A jigsaw, clamps, an orbital sander, a drill and perhaps an electric planer and a belt sander with a few assorted grade belts would be handy!

Materials - 4 sheets ply for 12′…4.5 sheets for 16′…6 sheets ply for 19’

Plywood sheets 1220mm x 2440mm ply, suitable for boatbuilding. There are many and various makes and grades and I’ll not enter into that can of worms, suffice to say that with the use of epoxy composites you will not be restricted necessarily to ‘marine ply’. Exterior ply treated properly will last for many years.

1 piece 15mm ply 3’ x 6’.

Approximately 6 metres 300gm bi-axial fibreglass cloth.

12 litres Epoxy resin.

Q-Cells or Microspheres.

Various assorted widths of Hoop Pine or Meranti 40mm x 10mm for rubbing strakes.

1 roll of glass tape, approximately 4” wide.

Copper wire or electrical ties.

Several polystyrene fruit boxes.

Twenty or thirty 10 x 40 clipboard screws (for temporary holding purposes).

1 litre Epoxy primer.

1 litre gloss enamel.

Several long, thin battens for curves, approximately 15’
Materials required for the sails and sailing gear will be listed in the plans and can be varied if required upon advice from your rigger or sail maker.

Terry Buddell

One of the great increasing mysteries of today’s modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad’s paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store…they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that’s just come in. For example, you’ll be faced with trade names like ‘Interlux Interthane coating’. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I’m sure you get the gist of what I’m saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to $150 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that’s so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour…can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit… it’s only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don’t paint it, right? - wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don’t let’s forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot….we’ll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won’t have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull – sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don’t forget it won’t be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It’s a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It’s best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can’t be removed later on. For example, painter’s glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I’ve heard stories that primers and paints don’t adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won’t stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp…. if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it…Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker…fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil–based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi–build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that’s talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi–build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let’s get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that’s fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here…apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or ‘work’ as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new….not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat…they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two–packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two–packs… there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice…I’m not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer’s products are usually ok! It’s your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive…a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I’ve fallen for it myself before now. It’s the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer…a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES
l. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It’s a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don’t mind repainting it every couple of years….cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn’t have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint….it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl’s Acrylic semi–gloss “CANE” and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi–gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day…and she’s forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there’s your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing…preparation is King… it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There’s another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we’ll deal with that one later.

Let’s take a look at spraying. There are several pre–requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn’t cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there’s one chap who works in Edge’s boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job…imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes…not over anyone’s car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I’ve seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush…….Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the ‘roll and tip’ method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and ‘tips’ out the bubbles left behind by the roller – unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.
A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don’t be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish….wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It’s tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There’s a different formula for that and I don’t know it!
THE FORMULA
ONE COAT = The boat’s length overall x the beam x 0.85
Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can’t work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.Good Luck!

Terry Buddell

The sea and the ships and boats that sail on it have long been the subject of fantasies of all age groups. Alas, the exacting demands of modern life and back breaking routines, not to mention the rising costs do not leave one with the time and freedom for an indulgence in owning a boat.
However, a model of one’s favorite boat leaves one with enormous satisfaction with at least being able to see a look alike of a boat of one’s choice. Among these, wooden boat models are a hot favorite because it is these wooden boats that make the hobbyist feel as if he is turning the pages of maritime history.

Some people prefer to go in for an outright purchase of wooden boat models and have it mounted at either their work place or home where they can see it often and feel the pride of ownership of a wooden boat model of their own choice. Undoubtedly ready made ship models look extremely attractive and come into one’s ownership as finished products that are fit to be displayed. Simply being able to gaze at them may provide peace and happiness and untold inspiration to the owner.

On the other hand there are some who feel they are missing out on the real thing if they have not been party to the plank by plank, part by part construction of a wooden boat model of their dreams. A lot of ship modeling companies, apart from ready boat models provide build-it-yourself kits that turn this dream into a reality and give immense satisfaction to the hobbyist.

This is possible because most often the blue prints of the original boats are in the possession of the modelers and they are able to follow them with precision and exactitude. The same can be said for the build-it-yourself kits. The parts are built to scale and the kits contain detailed instructions with care being taken to pre-empt any problem that wooden boat model builder is likely to encounter when on his way to creating a boat model of his choice by putting it together with the help of a kit and some basic tools.

Many companies and websites dealing with readymade models and kits have now come forward with a lot of know how and offer excellent discounts for the discerning hobbyist.

Dhaval Suthar

Bass fishing has a fascinating history. It started in the late 18th century and continues to progress even today. Fishing was originally practiced in search of food among the people in the south of the United States. Since then, it has encompassed all ages and nations. Today, countries such as Australia, Cuba, South Africa, The United States and most of Europe participate in this kind of event.

Timelines

• The year 1768 or 1770 represents the birth of bass fishing sports.

• William Shakespeare Jr. materializes the production of a level wind device and secured its patent on 1897.

• The William J. Jamison Co introduced the overly ornamented Shannon Twin Spinner in 1915 and was improved to create today’s spinner baits.

• In 1932, President Franklin D. Roosevelt instituted the creation of The Tennessee Valley Authority and encouraged the creation and building of numerous dams. These dams were later used as fisheries for different species of bass.

• Five years later, DuPont Company filed patent for a nylon fishing net, this was later developed into nylon monofilament fishing line. Still in use
today. With some changes it stays straight and lasts quite a long time with cleaning and care.

• In the year 1992 Larry Nixon, the famous fisherman in the history of bass fishing won $1M total earnings for this sport on this year. Today we have bass tournaments all over the US and winnings of $100,000 to $1,000,000 are common.

Types of Bass Fish

Several fish species that are being caught in bass fishing are:

• Micropterus psalmodies (Lacepede) - Largemouth Bass

• Micropterus dolomieui - Smallmouth bass

• Micropterus punctatus - Kentucky Bass

Just a note of reference, Australian Bass are different from the above North American Bass variants although most share similar features. Perhaps, the most robust success of Bass Fishing was in the 1950s. Due to the development of modern fishing equipment, from bass boats, rods, lines, lures and various fishing gears.

Electronic gear was incorporated among the host of equipment bass fishers used at that time. Reels of different types, which function in hauling and hoisting, were also created. Statistics show that the audience base of this sport is increasing and that more and more people are getting interested in it compared to tennis and golf.

Fly fishing for bass is a popular sport as well.

A good fiberglass or bamboo rod is required and comes in various sizes. The most used size is a 9 foot rod. The rod is longer than normal rods because the rod is used to cast the heavier line.Rods will come in one, two or three piece units. Many fishermen prefer a two piece rod as it is easier to transport.

The type of fly line you use will depend on the rod you select. Look on the rod handle for the type of line to use with this rod. The reel of a fly rod is very different than a spin casting rod and will hold less line. This is because the line is much thicker. With a spin rod the lure is pulling the line but with a fly rod the line is pulling the lure.Most bass fly fishers will want to use a Up-Locking with extension butt type rod. Your fishing store will know what your asking for.

Another important item for the fly fisher is a good fishing vest.You want as many pockets as you can get and large enough to hold your lure boxes and other items. Also make sure there is a felt or wool fly holder to stick extra fly lures to. This makes it easy to change lures when needed.

Chest or hip waders are also a good idea when bass fly fishing. You will be able to wade the river and streams and get right on a bass while in the water.

Remember bass like to hide and strike their prey.

A good pair of wading shoes or boot will help too. Find some with good soles of leather, felt or non slippery texture. I used to use rubber soled boots but they were slippery on moss covered rocks in West Virginia, I now have felt glued to the bottoms and find this works well.

When bass fly fishing do not be worried about not catching any bass, it maybe trout time…So fish for trout. They are fun to catch and just as tasty. Get tasty fish recipes and more fishing articles and secrets.

For more bass fishing tips, fishing articles and delicious fish recipes you can read more at my website.

Joe Roman

Equipment is required for most sports or activities. In fishing, equipment such as a pole, rod, line, sinker, hook, and bait are needed. A fishing boat is also required for some types of fishing. Fishing boats come in a variety different types and sizes. The sizes range from eight foot long boats to sixty feet deep sea fishing boats.

How do you select fishing boats that are right for your situation? There are three styles of regular fishing boats; deep v, regular v or modified v. The v determines how well the boat cuts through the depth of the water. The deep v is better suited for large lakes because they can handle heavy waves better. Regular “v” is more appropriate for smaller lakes and a man made body of water. As the water is not as deep and the waves are not as heavy, this type of boat is able to handle the situation. The modified v is the most popular version. It is capable of handling speed best. Most fishing boats on the market today are made of fiberglass or aluminum. What is best for your fishing situation? Do you want to fish in large lakes or small lakes? The options are endless.

There are several classes of fishing boats for different situations. All purpose fishing boats are great for your basic fishing needs. This type of boat has space for some bench seats, fishing gear and a simple steering station. They are made of either fiberglass or aluminum and are between 15 and 20 feet long. Another type of fishing boat is a bass boat, which comes fully equipped with space for rods and fishing gear. The boat is fully built with electronics and livewells. This boat also is made out of fiberglass and aluminum. The advantage to this type of boat is it is made especially to catch bass, fast. The third type of fishing boat is the center-console. It allows a fisherman to angle from any place on the deck. The control center is located in the center. Depending on the size of the boat they can be used offshore as well as near. Flats boats are mostly made up of fiberglass. The advantage of these boats is they allow easier angling access to saltwater flat fish. Another advantage it has is a poling platform that allows for fish spotting. Finally, a casting deck allows the angler to keep control. This makes this ype of boat convenient for fishing. The final category of fishing boats is the fun boat because it combines the motor of a yacht and the functionality of large a cockpit to work trophy fish and bring them on board.

If you are a fishing fanatic then it is important to have all the things that you need to make your fishing trip a success. Fishing boats are definitely the finishing touch to a nice fishing trip.

Paul Winter

If you’re keen to find a fun family activity, then give boat fishing a try. There’s nothing better than heading off on your boat with the wife and kids, talking about the fish you plan to catch that day.

It’s important to realize, though, that there are lots of different types of boat fishing, and each one has specialized boat requirements. You can do everything from dangle some bait on a string over the side of a canoe, right through to high-tech rods and a powerful cabin cruiser. It just needs to be seaworthy - the rest is up to you! But if you’re keen to buy a boat, you need to do some homework first. It can be very confusing walking into a boat show or dealership and seeing so many choices. You need to think about what you’re planning to do with the boat before you can decide which one to buy. Here are some popular boat fishing choices.

Freshwater Boats.
If you enjoy fishing in freshwater lakes, rivers or streams, then you don’t need a massive boat. Instead, choose an aluminum or fiberglass boat. Make sure it’s easy to transport and lightweight. Popular choices include bow riders, runabouts or walley boats, with either a small or dual console. These boats are fine for family freshwater boat fishing outings.

Offshore Saltwater Boats.
Fishing out on the open sea is the most common thing people think of when you mention boat fishing. Most people enjoy fishing offshore because they get the chance to catch huge fish and use heavy tackle. It’s important to have a dependable, heavy boat for this type of fishing. You’ll encounter plenty of different weather and situations on the open sea, so you need to be able to rely on your boat. You can choose twin or single outboard motors, and you definitely need a cuddy cabin or a center console. If you want to spend a bit more, you can start to look at the more luxurious boats, including a bluewater or convertible with luxury quarters, and maybe even an elegant living area. Bigger boats generally have powerful inboard diesel engines as standard.

Inshore Saltwater Boats.
If your tastes run to tarpin, snook, trout, bonefish or redfish, then you will want a boat suitable for inshore saltwater fishing. It’s best to have a light boat that is smaller than a 25-footer. All you need is a single outboard motor. You’re likely to be in shallow water at least some of the time, so something like a flat or baby boat works well. These have a spacious deck you can use for casting, and are still float well in shallow water.

Bass Boats.
This type of boat is generally suitable for tournament and sport fishing. They’re colorful, fast, and ride low in the water. It’s preferable if the bass boat has a trolling motor mounted on the bow. Generally they have a platform at both the bow and stern ends, which makes casting much easier. You can choose from aluminum or fiberglass.

Float Tubes.
These don’t really qualify as boats, but fly anglers find them very handy for fishing in mountain streams, ponds and lakes. A float tube is simply a flotation device containing a seat. The angler is partially submerged when seated in the float tube, and uses fins on his feet to navigate around on the water. They’re tricky to handle, and fly-casting requires lots of practice. You can choose between round float tubes, which are similar to an inner tube, and pontoon float tubes, which have an air chamber either side of the fisherman. The pontoons are slightly eiasier to maneuver, as their v-shaped design reduces the amount of water resistance.

It’s always a good idea to speak to experienced anglers who either have their own boat or use one regularly. They can give you lots of help in deciding which type of boat is right for you. Read magazines, guides, and talk to your local boat charter service. Fishermen generally love to talk about boats, and you can learn a lot to help you select the perfect fishing boat for your needs.

Stephen Dolan

Boat shows are the best way to check out the new seasonal offerings before you hit the water this year. As you shop the boat shows in your area, though, what, primarily, should you shop for in a new boat? This guide should help.

First, look around the boat shows near you for a good selection of boat styles that fit your needs. Some want the right pontoon boat to carry more party gear. Others need a speed boat for boat racing that reflects their fast, sleek personalities. Whatever your chosen boat style, though, understanding what you need before you walk into any boat shows is essential.

Once you’ve narrowed things down by style, it’s time to start looking at the general size of the vessel. While vessel styles may actually help you determine the size, with boat styles like speed boats, you’ll have lots of choices. Keep in mind that you need to choose a boat size that fits both the trailer you currently own and your level of experience. Bigger boats take a lot more maneuvering than smaller ones do, and if your last lake boating experience was a dinghy with oars, you may need to start small or at least invest in some boating courses to get the job done right.
Accessories
Now that you’ve looked at styles and size, your next step is to start choosing the preferences that best fit your needs. Most people look at engine capacity first. The larger the engine, the faster your boat is going to go, and boat shows are a great way to look at the engine technology that is currently available. Talk with dealers about what is new in the world of boat engines, look at demonstrations, and if you’re interested, talk about alternative fuel technologies. After all, gas is getting expensive for every engine, including those you’ll be seeing at the boat shows you attend.

In addition to engine size, you need to consider other boating accessories. While you can do lots of accessorizing after the fact, choosing a model at the boat shows you visit that comes close to meeting your needs may help things out quite a bit. Look at the lights, seat covers, and furniture included to be sure that you’re getting the right boat. If you’re shopping for higher end accessories or boating apparel or you have special boating needs (fishing and so forth) be sure to ask boat show dealers what could be added to their current model to make your boating experience a bit smoother.

Not sure where to find boat shows in your area? Go online. With thousands of boat shows from coast to coast, you’re sure to find one within driving distance. It’s unquestionably the way to get a look at all of the hottest models of the season and help narrow down your boat purchase choices. Moreover, though, you can check out some of the awesome boating products boat makers have created for the market this year. It may just give you the fix you need to make it to the next season.

By: David Done