In this case you will need to feed a solid source of pure carbohydrate in the form of fondant candy. It is very easy to apply on one of those 50 degree days where you can quickly lift the hive cover and place the candy directly on the frames or inner cover. My bees love fondant more than anything else I provide at this time of year. It’s soft and, if they decide to store it, they don’t have to spend energy evaporating water from it. It’s fun to make – just be sure you don’t eat it before you get it to your hives!

BEE FONDANT

(Note: The first few times make small batches. 4 cups sugar to 1 cup water is a good amount)
1 part water: 4 parts sugar
(by volume or weight – I find that it doesn’t matter which, in this case.)
1/4 teaspoon vinegar per cup of sugar*
(If using 4 cups sugar, use 1 tsp vinegar.)
Put in pan and heat and stir until it comes to a boil.
Don’t let sugar burn! If it turns brown or dark tan, it may make the bees sick with dysentery.
Cover the pan and boil for 3 minutes.
Boil uncovered until soft ball stage** Do not stir.
(starts at 239 degrees F, ends at 249 degrees F ).
Turn off heat and cool to 200 degrees F.
Whip with a whisk until white (give it 5 – 10 minutes).
Pour onto waxed paper on cookie sheets.
Cool undisturbed.

Cut up into squares, separate with waxed paper, store in plastic bag in freezer.

When feeding bees, warm fondant to room temp and put on top of frames or around hole in inner cover. Do
not expose bees to cold for more than several seconds.

• The vinegar is used to invert the sugars to turn the sucrose in table sugar to glucose and fructose sugars found in fruits and honey.
  ** The “soft ball” sugar stage is described in wonderful web site:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgRvA9Lk_N8
  Different stages of sugar start at around 2 min 33 sec into the video. At 2 min 38 seconds the soft ball sugar stage is shown.

November is a quiet time for the bees. It is possible for the bees to do some late season forage on a mild sunny day. Brood rearing will have essentially ceased making the demands on the colony much less and activities levels will be lower. Cleansing flights will take place when weather conditions permit otherwise the colony does very little.

Winter Bees: With the demands on worker bees reduced they store fats and proteins thus their fat bee longevity. With reduced activity the metabolic rate is lower. When the temperature drops below 64f they will start to form small clusters. At 32f the cluster is as tight as it will get, with the center of the cluster as low as 55f. The center of the cluster is not so tight and be bees are able to move around, feed and vibrate wing muscles to generate heat. They regularly swap places in order so all can feed. Do not disturb or break the cluster if possible.

Winter Winds: If your hives are not protected by trees or a fence consider bales of straw bales or other method to block the weather. To the top of your hive add a cinder block, large rock or strap hives down. Your bees have worked hard to seal cracks and opening with propolis so don’t open your hives unless necessary. If you need to wrap your hives with tar paper or other methods, do it prior to Thanksgiving.

Winter Feed: If you are concerned you may not have sufficient honey stored install a candy board which can be purchased from Dadant or other suppliers. Watch the video instructions from Weller Bee Supply “Candy Boards and Preparing Your Hive for Winter” – https://wellerbeesupply.com. Make fondant and or sugar patties with recipes from Lane County Beekeepers – https://www.lcbaor.org.

Judy Scher’s Fondant Recipe – Portland Urban Beekeepers

Only use 100% plain white granulated sugar and not organic or brown sugar. Checking for starvation or adding emergency feed can be done from the hive top. Do not add pollen patties as this encourages the queen to lay eggs. One of the most important winter chores is to lift the hive body from the bottom to check if it’s light in weight and likely low in honey stores. Also, on a favorable weather day you can open the lid for a very brief peek. Your bees will starve if they consume all of their honey reserves or they move to the edge of the hive where they no longer contact honey frames.

Varroa Mites: At temperatures of 50 f or lower do not open your hive unless necessary and consider if needed treatment and sampling methods using oxalic acid vapor and screen board for mite sampling. Monitoring with a screen bottom board use a treatment threshold of five mites per day or lower. Effective times to treat are from Thanksgiving to Christmas.

Mouse Guards: If you haven’t done so already, be sure to put your mouse guards on – but make sure a mouse does not get trapped inside.  Look inside the entrance with a flashlight. If you do not see mouse nesting material on the bottom board, you’re probably okay. If you do, you need to remove it otherwise the mouse could cause severe damage over the winter.

Entrance and Queen Excluder: Your hive lower entrance needs reduced to the minimum and queen excluder removed.

Stored Drawn Comb: Storing drawn comb frames in the cold weather will kill wax moths at 20f.  In your freezer frames will kill wax moth and eggs in a few hours. Thuricide BT is a biological insecticide you can also spray on your frames and is formulated to kill young wax moth larvae as they attempt to feed on comb and must be used as a preventive before combs are infested. After the frames are prepared, store the drawn comb frames in sealed plastic bins or garbage sacks. It is heart breaking to see all the drawn comb ruined that your bees worked so hard to make.

Ventilating Hive: Involves removing the hive moisture with ventilation or capture with Vivaldi board or quilt box installed with moisture wicking materials. Upper entrance closed or open and Screen bottom board closed or open. Check for moisture on the bottom board and add a shim between the inner and outer cover if needed to reduce.

Condensing Hive: Mimics bee biology and what bees naturally create in a tree cavity. The temperature above the bee cluster must be maintained below the dew point. Less honey is needed stored in the hive by possibly 25 to 50%. The winter lower metabolic rate is maintained by keeping CO2 in the hive. Moisture is maintained in the hive as the bees consume only water diluted honey. The concept includes: insulation between inner and outer cover, no upper entrance, screen bottom board sample board fully inserted, wrapping and or sealing cracks and openings.

Reflection: This is the time of year to review your success and failures and develop a plan of action to level up your beekeeping for next year.

Portland, OR – Certified 2025

Proficiencies: Three season pollinator gardening for honey bees and Oregon native pollinators; Honey Bee Pests and Diseases

Capstone Project: Developed and implemented a new honey bee program at a Beaverton School District high school. Students set up and learned how to manage their school apiary.

I got started with beekeeping in 2020. I started by reading Dewey Caron’s book before I got my nuc. I was intrigued that there was so much more to learn about bees than I had ever imagined. I found out about the OMB program and immediately enrolled.

I enjoyed all the learning in the apprentice and journey levels. For me, though, it all came together in the master level. I was able to combine my passion for bees, teaching/mentoring and giving back to the community in my capstone project. Having to teach others, both at the high school and as an OMB mentor, really solidified all that I had learned.

I’ve gained so much knowledge about honey bees and beekeeping. I know there is so much more to learn. After going through OMB, I now have the tools and connections to continue learning and growing as a beekeeper.

[OR] Radhika Marvin

Master – read about each Master graduate’s accomplishments here

[OR] Muffy Roy

[OR] Mike Standing

[UK] Tania Francis

Muffy Roy is a certified Master Level graduate

Please join us in congratulating Muffy! You can read about her experiences in the program here.

Location: Bend, OR

Proficiencies: Queen Rearing and Honey Bee Pests and Diseases

Capstone Project: 2024 Amitraz Efficacy Study at OSU

Oregon State Master Beekeeper Program

1. Fully close all zippers on your bee suit or jacket and pants — don’t leave any gaps.
2. If wearing a fencing veil, wear a ball cap with a brim underneath it. The brim holds
   the veil away from your face, reducing the chance of a sting through the mesh.
3. Wear boots or other sturdy, appropriate footwear.
4. Expect your bees to buzz your face and attempt to sting. Stay calm, move
   deliberately, and don’t swat — but be mentally prepared for more assertive behavior than
   usual.
   Stay safe out there, and take extra care during inspections this season.

Some links from the presentation:

Lincoln Best profile

oregonbeeplate.org

Oregon Bee Steward Program

Oregon Bee Project

Melittoflora app

Master Melitollogist Program

In October, the days will start to be colder and the bees will not fly as much. The queen now is
laying fewer eggs and the entire colony is preparing for the cold winter months. Be sure to set
up your hive for winter before the end of the month. The decision to overwinter with moisture
control by either using ventilation or condensing both can each lead to success. Starvation and
moisture are the major factors in winter hive failure.

Mouse Guards
 If you haven’t done so already, be sure to put your mouse guards on – but make sure a
mouse does not get trapped inside.  During a hive inspection, look inside the entrance
with a flashlight. If you do not see mouse nesting material on the bottom board, you’re
probably okay. If you do, you need to remove it otherwise the mouse could cause severe
damage over the winter.

Feeding
 A general guideline is that one colony will need approximately 60 to 70 pounds of honey
to make it through winter. Weigh or heft you hives to make a determination of honey
stores.
 During the cold winter months consider winter patties, fondant and candy boards.
 If you’re worried that your bees will not have enough stores going into winter, feed them
1:1 sugar syrup, which mimics the nectar flow.
 2:1 sugar syrup when the weather starts getting cooler or you notice the nectar flow
tapering off.
 In warm weather syrup ferments quickly and to prevent this add 1 tsp bleach per gallon of
syrup or one tablespoon each of white vinegar and lemon juice.
 Avoid adding Honey-B-Healthy or ProHealth as this encourages robbing. If you do use
Honey-B-Healthy or ProHealth only use it only with an internal feeder.
 In mixing 2:1 syrup boil water first and remove from heat before adding sugar as you
might scorch the sugar which possibly can form HMF (5-hydroxymethylfurfural), which is
toxic to honeybees.
 Stop feeding sugar syrup when daytime temperatures are below 57 F

Preparing Hives for Winter
 Wrap or close all air gaps between the supers
 Reduce to winter hive size – two deep or three medium supers or less
 Remove the queen excluder
 Lower entrance to be reduced to a minimum size
 Remove any left behind varroa mite treatment

Ventilating Hive
 Involves removing the hive moisture with ventilation or capture
 Vivaldi board or quilt box installed with moisture wicking materials
 Upper entrance closed or open
 Screen bottom board closed or open

Condensing Hive
 Mimics bee biology and what bees naturally create in a tree cavity
 The temperature above the bee cluster must be maintained below the dew point
 Less honey is needed stored in the hive by possibly 25 to 50%
 The winter lower metabolic rate is maintained by keeping CO2 in the hive
 Moisture is maintained in the hive as the bees consume only water diluted honey
 The concept includes: insulation between inner and outer cover, no upper entrance,
screen bottom board sample board fully inserted, wrapping and or sealing cracks and
openings

Top Bar Hives
 Now is the time to start moving your bars and reorganizing them for winter.
 If you have a center entrance hive, that means moving them toward the center with your
follower board on either side of the hive entrance with all stores down to one side.
 Think about what you will use as a windbreak and make sure your mouse guards are on.

Varroa Mites
 With temperatures getting colder, treatment options for varroa are limited.
 Results of the PNW Honey Survey show that treating for varroa during the year made a
significant difference in survival rates.
 Sample your colonies for varroa mites and apply treatment as needed. Honey Bee
Coalition Tools for Varroa Management is your best guidance on sampling technique and
treatment options.
 Make sure you follow the recommendations precisely for the treatment you choose. Some
treatments can only be applied when honey supers are off while others need a certain
outdoor temperature. Check the extended weather forecast.
 After treatment, re-sample to make sure the treatment was effective. This is very
important and should not be overlooked.
 Going into winter it is critical you have your varroa mite levels and the viruses they carry
low enough or your winter bees will not survive till next spring.
 At temperatures of 50 f or lower do not open your hive and consider if needed treatment
and sampling methods using oxalic acid vapor and screen board for mite sampling.
 Monitoring with a screen bottom board use a treatment threshold of five mites per day or
lower.

September is the time for beekeepers to focus on winter preparations. The queen will be laying “winter bees” eggs and the colony will need plenty of pollen to develop fat reserves these bees will need to survive the winter. The forage in our area is primarily finished by mid-October. Beekeepers should ensure that their bees have enough food to sustain them through the winter. Strong healthy hives are essential for winter survival, so take whatever action you can to prepare your hives.

Mouse Guards – by September 1

• Before installing a mouse guard, look inside the entrance with a flashlight to see if there’s any nesting material. If you see nesting material, you must get the mouse out before installing a mouse guard. 

Yellowjackets

• In late summer the yellowjacket population is large and their typical food supply is declining. This causes aggressive scavenging behavior and can become a threat to honey bee colonies when the yellow jackets rob a hive for both honey and larvae.
• If yellowjackets are noticed close upper entrance, reduce hive entrance and or install robbing screen.

Remove Honey Supers and Harvest “Surplus” Honey

• Keep in mind that one colony will need approximately 70 pounds of honey (that’s two medium supers full) to make it through winter.
• If you have extra honey, this is a good time to harvest it.
• Your honey frames are ready to extract when nearly all the cells (approx. 80%) are capped or the honey inside the uncapped or open cells is cured. To find out if it’s cured, you can shake the frame with the open cells facing down. If honey leaks from the cells, it’s not cured and should not be extracted. Uncured honey can ferment.
• First year beekeepers should not harvest honey the first year. That’s because the bees need the honey to make it through the winter. Of course, there are exceptions – but in general it’s solid advice to wait. 

Feeding

• If you’re worried that your bees will not have enough stores going into winter, feed them 1:1 sugar syrup (2:1 when the weather gets cooler).
• In warm weather syrup ferments quickly and to prevent this add 1 tsp bleach per gallon of syrup.
• Avoid adding Honey-B-Healthy as this encourages robbing and if you do use an internal feeder.

Combining Colonies

• It is generally better to take your losses in the fall and go into winter with stronger colonies. You might want to consider combining hives if: (1) you have a queen-less hive, (2) you have a weak hive, (3) you have two weak hives or (4) you have less than six full frames on both sides of bees.  You must do this carefully and systematically. 

Top Bar Hives

• Now is the time to start moving your bars and reorganizing them for winter.
• If you have a center entrance hive, that means moving them toward the center with your follower board on either side of the hive entrance with all stores down to one side.  
• Think about what you will use as a windbreak and make sure your mouse guards are on.  

Varroa Mites

• Results of the PNW Honey Survey show that treating for varroa during the year made a      significant difference in survival rates. 
• Sample your colonies for varroa mites and apply treatment as needed. Honey Bee Coalition Tools for Varroa Management is your best guidance on sampling technique and treatment options.
• Make sure you follow the recommendations precisely for the treatment you choose. Some treatments can only be applied when honey supers are off while others need a certain outdoor temperature. Check the extended weather forecast.
• After treatment, re-sample to make sure the treatment was effective. This is very important and should not be overlooked. 
• Going into winter it is critical you have your varroa mite levels and the viruses they carry low enough or your winter bees will not survive till next spring.  

Diana is at the Master Level of the Oregon Master Beekeeper program, and also a team member of PUB’s Beekeeping Task Force and we’re thrilled to host her this month!

During my presentation on small-batch honey harvesting, I mentioned a number of products that I use. Here are the requested links.

Slanted bottom honey tank with two filters, used for crush-and-strain and for a last filtering of honey press honey: 

Honey filters: 

https://a.co/d/09niBRlG

https://a.co/d/02YYqNJ7

Two-gallon honey bucket: 

https://a.co/d/02d04zjq

Refractometer: 

https://a.co/d/06XenAfO

Honey press: 

https://a.co/d/09HVe6FJ

Linen apron from this Etsy shop: 

https://www.etsy.com/shop/L8Q8

Leuchturm blank notebook (highly recommended for paper quality and durability): https://a.co/d/09zSt6PG 

Pigma pens (highly recommended for ink quality): 

https://a.co/d/00M1ITcn

Canon Selphy photo printer that prints sticky back photos from an iPhone or Android (better quality than the Canon Ivy) 

https://a.co/d/0664Y3PH

Canon Ivy photo printer that prints sticky back photos from an iPhone or Android (less expensive but lower quality than the Selphy, but also slightly easier to use): https://a.co/d/0iVN1HfK

OSBA Honey Judge Marjie Ehry and her late husband Alan began their careers as commercial beekeepers in 1962, in Dundee, Oregon. Alan always knew this was what he wanted to do, and together they embraced the beekeeping life, which has been an amazing journey.

In the early 1960’s, Marjie and Alan joined the Oregon State Beekeepers Association and became submerged in every function of the group, including traveling to American Beekeeping Federation events.

In 1965, Marjie began helping set up the OSBA honey exhibit at the Oregon State Fair. Today, the Oregon Beekeepers’ display is the largest educational attraction in the Creative Living dept. at the state fair.

Next, she learned the ropes of judging honey, taking classes throughout the years to increase and refine her skills. She has mentored others and enjoys sharing her expertise on honey and products from the hive, while continuing her judging duties whenever needed.

Marjie was the Oregon Honey Queen program coordinator and chaperone 1969 – 1990 bringing two Queens to the National level (1969 Karen Peterson, 1987 Leslie Kuenzi).

She was a founding member of the Willamette Valley Beekeepers Association (1967); and served as OSBA President 1988 – 1992. She is a Lifetime Member of the Oregon State Beekeepers, the Willamette Beekeepers, and the Tualatin Valley Beekeepers Associations.

Marjie’s mission has been, and continues to be, sharing the story of the miraculous honey bee. She believes beekeepers should be very proud of the work they do. The challenges of nature, economics and manmade problems are best solved when beekeepers stick together. The future of our industry and the health of mankind depend on us.

MARJIE EHRY, ACTIVITIES:

● OREGON STATE BEEKEEPERS ASSOCIATION. Member 1962 – present

● Lifetime member: OSBA, Willamette Valley & Tualatin Beekeepers

● OSBA – State Fair, Chair (beginning in 1966), coordinating events, assembling displays and honey judging

● Founding member of Willamette Valley Beekeepers Assoc. 1967- present (Founders: Bob & Betty Ramsey, Wes & Elise Kester, Alan & Marjie Ehry)

● School presentations, Honey bees and Beekeeping. 1965 – 2010

● Yamhill County and Dayton School District, 1966 -2015 (Title One, Budget Com., Parent Advisory)

● Oregon Farm Bureau, 1967 – 93, 2020

● Oregon Women for Agriculture, 1969 – present (Charter Member)

● OSBA Honey Queen Program, Chair 1969 – 1990 (Two National Queens: 1969 Karen Peterson, 1987 Leslie Kuenzi)

● OSU, Research & Advisory Board, “Top Ten” Ag Priorities, 1970

● OSBA, Legislative Comm. (OSU Bee Research Position) 1970 -73

● Oregon Department of Agriculture, Unity Group 1972 – 1980

● Farm Wife Forum, Milwaukee, Wi. 1973 (forming of AAW (American Agri-Women))

● American Agri-Women, 1973 – present (Charter Member)

● Oregon State University, Honey Judging Certification, 1978 (Dr. Mike Burgett)

● Oregon Agri-Business Council- Board 1984 – 1986

● Yamhill Education Service District, Board 1984 -96, 2000-03

● Yamhill County “Leader 85”, 1985

● Oregon Honey Festival, Organizer, 1985, Dundee

● OSBA, President 1988 – 1992 (first woman president of a bee association in the nation)

● National Honey Board – Nomination com. & Alt. Board Mem. 1988 – 1995

● OSU, Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station, Centennial Committee, “100 YEARS OF PROGRESS,” 1888 – 1988

● OWA (Oregon Women for Agriculture) President – 1992 – 1994

● AAW National Small Crops Chair – 1993 -1997

● Oregon School Board Assoc. – Leadership Oregon 1995

● Chairman 1995 AAW Nat. Convention 1995

● Ciba-Geigy Corporation, Leadership ‘95 Conference – Greensboro, NC.

● AAW National – Leaven Award 1997

● Yamhill County Planning Commission Board, 2001- 2022

● In addition: Honorary Chapter Farmer, Corvallis FFA, 1960 (women could not be official members until 1969)