Portobello Spy

'The September Issue' is out today in the UK - hurrah!

2009-09-11T14:08:00.008+01:00

You can betcha cotton socks P.S has been looking forward to seeing R.J. Cutler's The September Issue ever since getting a sneaky preview of the trailer (see above) what seems like donkey's years ago. Unfortunately, being out of town when all the media screenings took place meant we've had to wait until today like everyone else to tuck in, and you will find P.S pulling on my current favourite stilettos and hitting The Electric Cinema on Portobello Road asap to get my fix!

Fashionfreax.net - A social network for fashion

2009-06-24T14:24:00.006+01:00

Fashionfreax.net is a social network for fashion... and its pretty darn good.

It already seems to have a growing and interactive community... with stylers from all over the world riffing about fashion , celeb style and more. Users upload images of styles they like, and other users helpfully tag those images with links or advice on places to buy something similar online.

The 'Spy is a big fan of street style and www.fashionfreax.net seems to do a good job of blending street style with 'where can I find it online?'.

I'll be signing up for an account and making my Portobello presence felt in no time.

Empora.com lets you shop by colour, style and cut.

2009-06-23T17:07:00.005+01:00

One of the ‘Spy’s few pet hates when shopping for clothes online is what I call the “next page” syndrome. You go to your favourite fashion shopping website, you click on ‘Tops’... and you spend the next 5 minutes hitting NEXT until you find something you like. A new fashion service, Empora.com, has solved this for us all.

Empora.com lets you search for items by colour, style and cut. For example, click on a pair of white skinny jeans - Empora.com will display the closest matches online from lots of different retailers and brands – some similar by style, some similar by colour and so on. Once you get the hang of it, it really does save you time and effort. (Empora say its powered by their unique Similarity Search technology).

The website’s range seems to be bang on trend and offer a wide price range from cheap to chic, from Warehouse to Vivienne Westwood.

Duggie Fields in Denmark

2008-09-24T18:58:00.005+01:00

Duggie Fields

Post-LFW madness its great just to be able to sit and go through emails, this one dropped into my inbox the other day, one of my favourite artists - and Dover Street Market collaborator- is having an exhibit in Copenhagen, the first time he has shown there. So if any of my Danish readers are in the vacinity I urge you to go, and see the artists unique style of Maximalism, Fields comments "Less is less, more or less ... It's a concept that has slowly evolved my life."

DUGGIE FIELDS
Galleri Dorte Philipsen, Gl. Leije 2008
Runs 6th September - 12th October

Made in the Mill

2008-09-24T18:46:00.004+01:00

Made in Islington Mill

Following such a hardcore week only die-hard fashionistas (and those not off to Milan) were going to make the Topshop: Made in Islington launch. The party took place at the Moustache Bar in Dalston, you'd be forgiven for thinking there was nothing going on at all just a normal night at the boozer, P.S. was left thinking that I'd turned up on the wrong day; until I bumped into my friend (and DJ at the event) Dean Golden. The event was so low-key and with out press releases so I can't even bring any news of the label to my readers, it certainly made a great change to the previous parties that week. Finally spotted, Kevin Rowland of Dexy's Midnight Runners, who came up to P.S. quizically asking "Do I know you?" which in all fairness wasn't as scary as Keko off Project Catwalk coming up to me saying "You're Portobello Spy!" I feel my cover has been blown!

Just Fash Off!

2008-09-24T03:35:00.005+01:00

Image Billa Baldwin

Never has a party been and done what it says on the tin, with most people 'fashing off' in the queue due to bad organisation, with two parties taking place at the same venue, namely BBB in Shoreditch. A scrum of fashionista's packed the door, with friends of the door whore Daniel Lismore dragging people through the swelling crowd, proving it's easier for a camel to fit through the eye of a needle; than for a fashionista to enter Beach Blanket Babylon.

After queueing for a bloody hour, not that I mind, just frustrating when your queueing by yourself due to bad punctuality/fashionably late/whatever, I finally got in to find the downstair bar full of the exact same wankers as were at the International Fashion Party; talk about needing to 'Fash off!.' On making a hasty retreat upstairs I bumped into my old friend Ben Charles Edwards, and spent the evening in a rather relaxed affair having an extended chatette with the director, and his good friends Roger Spy (no relation) and Hamilton Stansfield. All in all a relaxing end to LFW, the circus rolls on to Milan, but P.S. for one won't be partaking in the madness.

Sleeper in Metropolis

2008-09-24T03:06:00.007+01:00

Inbar Spector S/S 09

The day was rounded off by the wonderful Inbar Spector, who created some fabulous jumpsuits using her trademark fetishtic twisted seams and zips in a monochrome palette. The collection saw models stutting down to a soundtrack provided cult 80s electro artist Anne Clark with her Zenith 'Our Darkness.' The styling by Rebakah Roy was inspired, as was the hair and make up by Jan for Toni and Guy and Lan Nguyen respectivly. Key pieces for P.S. included the chiffon mini and with asymentrical shoulder zips and chains, the balck wool fishtail jacket adorned in an array of zipped seams; and what can only be described as the effin' huge puffball dress with loops of tulle intertwined into a rope with small snail like trickles of chains coming through. It was dark, it was gothic and could not have been more of a contrast the the previous show. There must have been a glitch in the matrix that day - watch for the model walking off the wrong way at 2.36.

Saved by the Bell ... again!

2008-09-23T22:02:00.007+01:00

Emma Bell S/S 09

Is there anything about the next designer that P.S. hasn't told you about, with our forays into Budgie compitetions, Limehouse raves and the like. Anyway I am biased but I effin' loved Emma Bell's collection with its playful use of knitwear tecniques, with a myriad of knitted food stuff knitted together to form a quirky dress. Other key knitwear pieces included the fried eggs beach cozzies and watermelon shorts, a bit like what they wore to the beach in the olden days. It also saw the use of quilting and return of the Bingo Caller bomber jackets and leaderhosen from last season, P.S. favs were the rubber duck print 50's style dress and the 3/4 length sparkly pink trenchcoat. The show saw the VFS packed to capacity, making it the biggest crowd drawer at the venue all week, two seasons from now I can see Miss Bell showing on schedule for sure. Also a big mention must go to Charlie Le Mindu for creating such wonderful wigs, and to the ever talented Melissa Victoria Lee - assisted by Matthew Alexander - for making the Swarovski crystal masks.

Scott Ramsay Kyle

2008-09-23T21:53:00.005+01:00

P.S. fav Scott Ramsay Kyle showcased a collection of tabards, far removed from what you imagine on dinnerladies and cleaners and such. These were sumptious wool creations covered in embroidery (which he used as part of team Biba last season) fringing and piping. The collection drew on inspiration from Grace Jones and The Queen of Hearts hentchmen from Alice in Wonderland. The key outfit for P.S. was the sleeveless wool jumpsuit, embellished all over with gold piping, I just hope it'll be easy to pick it up a knock-off from Marks and Spencers; as for P.S. I'm heading down Scott's Hackney studio for a tabard or two.

FASH OFF!

2008-09-23T21:29:00.010+01:00

Fash Off!

So the final day of fashion week what did it bring? Bora Aksu's show at the tents, missing Ashish because we had decamped to the pub, the trilogy of great shows at the VFS and Fash Off! closing party.
Bora Aksu's collection was suitably feminine, showcasing a collection of draped chiffon numbers, with a few paper silk dresses thrown in for good measure, with puffball sleeves featuring heavily for the designer. Nothing thats going to change the world, but pretty none the less.

A few blind stories full of Fashion Week gossip for you -

Which style magazine editor has been cutting a whopping 15 years off her real age for her press age?

Which designers ridiculously oversized entourage ate all the backstage grub for that show, and for the following show; leaving the last designer, team and models of the day hungry?

Challenge Anneka hits Dover Street

2008-09-22T20:31:00.009+01:00

Anneka Rice

With all these fashion parties going on with random celebs turning up, see Lady Victoria Hervey, Sandi Thom et al at the International Fashion Week party, it was great to see a celeb with a bit of class on Thursday night. P.S. is of course talking about Anneka Rice, who flew into Dover Street by helicopter putting the supercars outside Mahiki to shame, sporting a canary yellow jumpsuit - very much on trend for next season. Today's challenge was in conjunction with the local scout troup to get a signed copy of Andrew Logan's book, from it's launch at the Dover Street Gallery. Ok the former was a lie, she was however in attendence to get a signed copy of Logan's latest tome. Very much a case of Logan goes West, other guests were friends of the jeweller including the Rocky Horror Picture Show's Patricia Quinn - who commented on how wild I was looking - sculptor Carol McNicol, artist Duggie Fields and fashionista David Reeson.

Victim Fashion Street

2008-09-22T19:30:00.006+01:00

Mei Hui Lei

Mei Hui Lei has carved out a niche in the market for herself selling Victorian inspired garments, this season proved to be no exception. The models strutted down the runway to music by Italo Prog-rockers Goblin, the juxtapostion of the music from Giallo movies added an exta creepy edge to the Spring/Summer collection. It's not everyday you see a collection presented to the themes Buio Omega, Profondo Rosso and Suspiria respectivly, it worked amazing well with Mei's range of Punk meets Victorian Lady of the Night meets rag-doll numbers; where tulle ruffles met a mish mash of tartan and leopard-print mixed up with in a superfluity of dyed lace. The colour palette was inspired, with a strong psychedelic theme, and the embellished gold embroidery divine its going to go down a storm with the Harijuku girls.

Kokon to Zai Westside

2008-09-22T16:09:00.005+01:00

Image L I Z

Last week saw the opening of the Kokon to Zai Westside store, located on the up and coming Golborne road in the heart of Notting Hill. The new store will be stocking familar brands, Marjan Pejoski, KTZ, Raf Simons, Vivienne Westwood and Cassette Playa alongside a range of lifestyle brands; from conceptual artist Jason Miller, Harry Allen, Italian brand Seletti and Dutch design collective Droog Designs.

Images Ursula Roxy Aitchison

Liz Beakbane and John Francis Bowyer

Hannah Vernon and Feral from Cantankerous

Boadicea the Victorious

2008-09-21T18:28:00.005+01:00

The Groucho

Wednesday saw the launch of the Boadicea the Victorious fragrance- inspired by Queen Boadicea’s bravery, passion, commitment and unfailing drive, held at the infamous Groucho club I half expected to see Alan Davies biting a tramps ear outside. Needless to say the place was full off liggers, and Diane Pernet, I swear that woman would attend the opening of an envelope, quite a few journo's were disgusted by the fact there was NO free booze with one storming off because there wasn't even a press release on display. As for the perfume, P.S. only managed to get a sniff off one, its wasn't too bad but does not warrant the £300 price tag, but it got me thinking what do the £2500 bespoke perfumes smell of?

The bespoke service offered by conceptualist Michael Boadi enables clients to create their own signature scent, from a range of essential oils and essences from around the world, sourced for their pure and rare qualities. Very much like a Saville Row suit alterations are made as necessary over a period of several weeks, the unique blend is then stored in a beautiful hand-blown, hand-decorated lead crystal bottle with sterling silver fittings and decanter system. Each individual fragrance is registered with a limited edition serial number and a certificate produced as proof the scent is unique.

It's raining hems

2008-09-21T18:03:00.004+01:00

Olanic S/S 09

This season Olanic showcased a collection inspired by weather girls, not the 80s group, but rather Ulrika Johnson territory. The slouchy draped jersey pieces were covered in strong graphic prints remiscent of 80s weathermaps when Micheal Fish was always warning about the impending danger of 'GOF.' With the ever constant changing British weather the collection also took in tux style and sequin shrugs, - very Cilla Black - as well as parred down minimal capes and trenchcoats, which was inspired by the designers love for Mackintosh garments.

London Fashion Week

2008-09-21T17:35:00.003+01:00

It has been a crazy old week, rushing between venues and shows and to parties. Hence some of P.S.'s little catwalk reports are a wee bit later than anticipated. P.S. would love to give a massive thank you to Martyn, John, Amanda and the whole team at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout for taking care of myself and fellow Fashion posse Piers, Hannah, Elizia, Marc and Theo during fashion week, in the Bedouin style Media Centre sponsored by Koodos. The catwalk and party reports will follow some vague chronological order, but it doesn't help with notes spread through several moleskine notebooks.

FAD

2008-09-21T17:06:00.002+01:00

More pictures of the winners and their designs from the FAD show.

L-R, Runner-up Emily McShane's design, Runner-up Felipe Nascimento, Runner-up Grace Wales Bonner's design, Joint winner Kudesha Mensah's design, Joint winner Aysha Simpson, Runner-up Emily McShane

Fashion Awareness Direct

2008-09-21T16:59:00.003+01:00

Felipe Nascimento

The next show was F.A.D. which showcases the talents of young inner city London teens, with the help of the staff from CSM. After the show the designers were presented with prizes, Felipe Nascimento scooped the Fashion Forward Design prize, Grace Wales Bonner took the Research award, and Emily McShane walked away with a gong for Creativity. With so much talent on display it was no wonder the panel choose two overall winners, Kusheda Mensche who's 70's teal jumpsuit earned her a placement helping at next season's shows at VFS; and Aysha Simpson who's design earned her a placement with fashion desinger Elspeth Gibson. So thats the two hottest shows of the day, and they were both held at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout, which is by far showing the most cutting edge collections this week.

C60, C90, GO!

2008-09-18T11:18:00.013+01:00

Ioannis Dimitriosis

Well what shows were the highlights of yesterday, F.A.D. and (P.S. fav) Ioannis Dimitriosis respectively. Ioannis' kept his trademark crochet, made by Mama Dimitriosis' fair hand, this time round taking in 80s style lurex threads; the 80s references did not stop there, P.S. was loving the vests which apperered to be made of old beaded car seats. If that was not 80s enough the catwalk was covered in tape from cassettes, a theme that the stylist and make up team had incoporated into the clothing, hair and make up.

Penkov S/S 09

2008-09-18T11:18:00.012+01:00

Penkov, image Chris Dadey

Well its now the penultimate day of London Fashion Week, which has been kicked off in style by Berlin-based designer Bernadett Penkov and Triumph ('The bra for the woman you are')showcasing a collaborative effort for S/S 09. The range was a clean, minimal, sophisticated, and more imporantly cohesive collection, where delicate sheer fabrics met white poreclain body armour, held together with fabulous cut and detailing. As with a lot of shows this week, peg trousers made an apperance in a more more feminine take in chiffon. P.S. was also loving the military detailing and 60's style shifts in pastel stripes, the most showstopping piece had to be the white mini dress which carried through the ceramic armour theme into the built up shoulders of the dress, which were fit for the NFL which is always a good thing.

(Images to follow!)

Tuesday, parties

2008-09-17T03:26:00.004+01:00

Well after all that excitement it was off to the parties, P.S. was sporting Piers Atkinson for Noki's The Dalston hat (see 2 posts below.)On the way to Green Park a passer by commented 'Oh my god, it's Edina Monsoon' it was at that moment I knew my work was done! We quickly stopped off at Mahiki for Afshin's post catwalk drinks, before heading to the International Fashion Party; which was awfully pretentious. It in fact lead to a new game to relieve boredom 'Throw the orange at the orange celebrity' where Meg Matthews was struck in the back of the head by a tangerine, and a BFC board member took one in the face! Blimey!

Hazell Dean - Searchin'

Special thanks to Jonny Woo and Jim Stanton for playing us some Hazell Dean (see above) and to Feral for letting me put my mulitple fashion bags in the dj booth. Spotted - Erin O'Connor, Dianne Pernett a.k.a. Strawberry Switchblade's Mum, Nikki Graham from BB, The Ginge from Girls Aloud and countless liggers.

Tuesday, shows and shops

2008-09-17T03:09:00.008+01:00

Kokon To Zai, image L I Z

After the madness and mayhem of the George and Dragon (followed by Hackney Homo Hangout The Joiners Arms)how would the rest of the week square up? Due to stupidity/lack of sleep P.S. missed JSmith Esq'a show (gutted) and went straight to the opening of the new KTZ shop on Golborne Rd. P.S. was greeted by Cantakerous' Feral and the lovely Liz Beakbane event organiser and website designer extraodinaire, who both commented that despite being a drunken fool last night I was looking rather glam that fine mid-afternoon ... Anyway the shop, it's a fab, complete with a marble floor and original Victorian tiles still present in the former Butchers premises. Full of wonderful delights including fashion, interiors, and art (full review and piccies to follow.)

Afshin Feiz S/S 09

Well P.S. was loving the tailoring in the new collection by Afshin Feiz, hearlding the return of boyfriend jackets - oh yeah, as well as high-waisted Bowie esque peg trousers (which P.S. has seen a lot of these past two days) in particular I thought the studded cropped jacket adorned with silver and chiffon intertwined into the fibres was a real fav. Spotted, or rather the parting of the front row, Jan and Daisy De Villenueve followed swiftly by fashion legend Caryn Franklin.

London Fashion Week - Part 1

2008-09-17T02:59:00.003+01:00

Well P.S. has just returned from a night, well two nights of debauched fashion mayhem, I'm no dirty stop out it'sjust taken a while to get over the choas and excitement! Monday evening saw the showing of Noki's latest collection, originally scheduled for 'White Cube' aka the George and Dragon toilets, the event found its way into the main body of the bar. Various mental people (including Feral from Cantankerous)were bedecked in swathes of recycled rags and tees turned into works of art by Dr Noki and the N.H.S. (Noki House of Sustainability) which was all rather fabulous. The icing on the cake was the hats by Piers Atkinson, the hot new label for the coming season - you heard it here first peeps!

Deja Vu for Hindmarsh

2008-09-11T15:16:00.004+01:00

The crime scene the first time around

P.S. is rather shocked to hear that Anya Hindmarsh has been raided again! The robbers made off with £20,000 worht of bags from the new A/W 2008/9 line, Hindmarsh told Vogue online "We have had the store on Pont Street for eleven years and not once suffered a break in. In addition to the stock, the thieves also got away with the price list, it is deeply upsetting and saddens me to see so many pieces from the new collection taken so quickly after they arrived in store." This raid followa previous robberies at London stores located on Bond Street, Sloane Street and Ledbury Road, will the designers finally up their security ...

Turn around bright eyes

2008-09-09T19:38:00.004+01:00

You know its kicking out time in the local when the patrons are singing along to Bonnie Tyler tracks on the jukebox. Could it have been that they were inspired by the new Cadbury's advert, which is actually an old advert remixed to 'Total Eclipse of the Heart' that power ballard classic. The new advert aired during the final of Big Brother and since I know (hope) none of my readers saw it, look at the top of this post, pure genius.