Practical Horse Care And Riding For All.

Stable Tips and Tricks - Cleaning Your Tack and Equipment

2013-06-28T06:26:00.000-07:00

Cleaning your tack and equipment comes with the territory of riding. If you ride, western or English or drive, you should clean your tack and equipment. Sometimes it seems like a chore but in the long run, it's worth it.
Tip 1

After removing the bridle dip the bit in the horses water bucket. I learned this from a friend who rode several horses a day and cleaned tack for every horse every ride. This prevented any build up on the bit to dry before she had a chance to rinse it off
I like this idea because before you even get to the tack room the bit is already clean! Make sure, however, to use the horses water bucket. Do not dip it in another horses bucket in case of contamination.

Tip 2

Before removing your saddle, wipe the saddle off while it is still on the horse! I saw this done several years ago by a seasoned rider who hated being in the tack room. She had her sponge and cleaner in the aisle way with her and cleaned and wiped off her tack before she removed it off the horse! How clever is that?
Using spray on saddle soap made things easy as well. The tack is at a convenient level. There is plenty of room and you get your horse used to the spray bottle sound!

Tip 3

Brush off polo wraps, boots, bandages before you remove them from your horse's legs. After doing this for so many years it is just a habit for me now. I started doing this after one particular ride my white polo wraps were covered in dirt. I really didn't want to have to wash them again so I brushed the dirt off while they were on my horse's legs. I used them again and again. It increased the amount of use between washings.

Equipment can be an expensive part of your horse budget. You should clean your tack because:

It lasts longer. - Taking care of your equipment, leather in particular, provides it with much needed moisture and protection. Feeding your leather with the proper products will ensure that it lasts in good condition for a long time. Unclean and ill maintained tack will crack, split and be unusable.
It looks better - It is a great site to see clean and gleaming tack 'put up' in the tack room. You feel good about it and it enhances the look of your horse.
It feels better - The leather itself will feel soft and pliable. The buckles are effortless to do up and the leather is easy to manage.
You learn to know your tack. - When you are cleaning and checking your tack it is the perfect opportunity to ensure if any repairs are needed. This means checking for poor stitching, split or worn out leather. Think of it as an opportunity to review your equipment.

Riding and cleaning tack go hand in hand. After a lifetime of riding I should know. I remember going to my High school Graduation and the photographer told me to hide my hands (they were dirty from tack cleaning and I had a show the next day) Stay tuned for more Stable Tips and Tack Cleaning information.
I own and operate local stable, teach lessons and am a Senior Juddge. If you would like more information contact me at thistleridge@hotmail.com. Also visit http://www.thistleridge.wordpress.com/ for more horsey related topics!

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Good Horse Care and Pasture Management

2011-03-08T10:34:00.000-08:00

The maintenance routine will include frequently spreading manure droppings or picking them up. Horses can wear bald patches in the ground. This typically occurs in wet weather. A useful economic tip is to spread seeds that fall from the hay onto the bald patches. This will take care of those patches with new grass in season for your horses.

Maintaining your horse pasture with a variety of grasses should be your goal for good care. Safe herbs and other plants can also be included. Some horses enjoy eating blackberries which contain vitamin C. Brambles may be left in hedges many horses enjoy eating the young leaves of these plants. Dandelions are another highly nutritious plant for horses. They are also easy to seed. Good edible plants should be encouraged in your horse pasture.

Routine pasture inspection is practical horse care. Make sure all fences are in good repair. Carefully check for any poisonous plants frequently. Most people do not have the knowledge to identify poisonous plants in their horse pasture. If you are not familiar enough with the poisonous plants for the area where you live to readily identify them, purchase a good photographic guide to poisonous plants. Inspections for these plants should take place often because seeds from these plants can blow in and sprout anytime.

Here is a list of plants using their common names that may reduce the quality of your horse pasture and those that are unsafe for horses. If you find them in you horse grazing area take care that they are removed.

Beech - Beech mast or the fruit is poisonous to horses.
Box - This plant is often used as a hedge for gardens.
Bracken - This plant is not usually eaten by horses. It should be pulled up and burned because it wastes valuable grazing and spreads.
Buttercups - Horses usually do not eat this plant but weed killers can change the taste and they may be eaten then.
Daffodil - If growing wild can be eaten.
Deadly night shade - Can be eaten by horses that browse a hedgerow accidentally.
Foxglove - Not usually eaten but it commonly grows in paddocks.
Hemlock - The whole plant is deadly. Young shoots appearing in spring are sometimes eaten.
Holly - The poisonous berries are at times eaten.
Horse chestnut - Horses can not eat the fruit of this plant but they can eat the leaves.
Ivy - This plant seems to do no harm is small quantities but not eaten in large amounts.
Laburnum - If this plant is near a grazing area it should be removed, normally it is only grown in gardens.
Oak - Consuming large amounts can cause colic in a horse and could be fatal. Sometimes a horse may crave acorns and in this case the acorns must be swept up and removed or select another pasture for the horse to graze.
Oleander - This plant is deadly to both humans and horses. It is often used as an ornamental plant. Do not pasture a horse near this plant.
Privet - This plant is poisonous to horses. It is commonly used as a hedge.
Ragwort - This plant should be pulled up and burned. It can be fatal to horses.
Yew - Poisoning from this plant happens quickly. Horses can be found dead with the plant still in its mouth.

When you are able to keep your horse in a pasture it is the best way to let him get exercise while grazing. At http://www.horse-central.com you can find information that can help you learn more about keeping your horse pastures safe and other ways to care for your horse.

Ten Winter Horse Care Tips

2010-12-06T04:13:00.000-08:00

Horses usually adapt easily and quickly to winter's challenges. But it's important to provide them with the extra care they need to stay safe and healthy when the cold winds blow.

1. As pasture quality or accessibility decreases, increase hay. The best heat source for your horse is extra hay. During the cold weather, it's best to increase the amount of hay, not concentrated feeds. Hay is digested in the cecum and colon which results in heat production by bacterial fermentation.

2. Get a pre-winter dental checkup. If your horse isn't grinding up her food properly, she may not be getting all the nutrients and energy out of it. Food is energy and energy creates warmth!

3. Even if your horses are stabled over night, make sure they have a windbreak or shelter. This doesn't have to be an elaborate structure. Dense shrubbery or a stand of trees may be enough.

4. Consider blanketing during wet, very windy, or frigid weather. Like a wet down jacket, your horse's haircoat looses loft and won't hold body heat when it's wet. Older horses, horses unused to the cold or clipped horses may need blanketing.

5. Remove the blanket every day. Brush your horse and check for chafing and irritation from the blanket. Don't neglect grooming during the winter. A dirty, matted coat loses much of its ability to insulate.

6. If you put your horse in a stall during very cold weather, keep in mind she may still need blanketing. In the wild, horses forage, move continually and huddle together during cold weather to keep body temperatures up. These options are not be available to a stalled horse and body temperatures can decline.

7. Inside the barn, be sure there is adequate ventilation but no direct drafts. Consider weather stripping the stalls. If your stall floors are cement, add rubber matting or extra bedding for insulation.

8. Be sure to provide adequate water during the winter. Horses may not drink enough if the water is very cold. Try to keep the water temperatures as far above freezing to increase water consumption and avoid dehydration.

9. Watch for frozen puddles around the water troughs. These can be really dangerous to your horse. Sprinkle alfalfa meal on the icy spots. Alfalfa contains nitrogen to promote melting and has a texture to provide traction. Non-toxic and cheap! Fireplace ashes and plain old dirt can provide traction, too.

10. Keep hooves in good condition. Well trimmed hooves will chip less, hold less snow, and provide better grip on slippery ground.

In the wild, horses acclimate very easily to cold weather. In a domestic setting, we may need to provide a little extra care to ensure our horse's safety and heath. Learn to balance your horses needs with her current environment for the best possible horse health!

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://www.PracticalHorsekeeping.com/

Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today at and start getting practical!

Caring for Your Horses During the Cold Winter Months

2010-12-03T03:42:00.000-08:00

The winter months are difficult for all animals, especially horses. When in cold and freezing temperatures, a horse will attempt to find ways to stay warm. It will try to find cover, ranging from overhanging branches of a tree to huddling against other horses when turned out in groups. No matter how your horse tries to stay warm, it is up to you to care for your horse during the cold winter months.

Like other animals, a horse possesses instincts to handling freezing temperatures and how to survive in the wild. A horse will typically grow coats both longer and thicker to better insulate them against the cold. A horse's nostrils contain spirals of bone and cartilage which warm the air they breathe as they inhale. Its metabolism will also decrease in cold weather. This lets them store fatty tissue just under the skin.

Pasture horses are the most likely to undergo difficult times as the temperatures drop. During the winter, they are constantly exposed to the harsh elements. They don't get the benefit of taking shelter in a nice warm barn. While this doesn't mean they won't survive, but horse owners should take the necessary steps to ensure they manage.

Heated barns are essential for horses which are stabled indoors. Although it can be a little pricey to heat a stable throughout the entire winter, there are methods to keep the temperatures comfortable. First, close all doors and windows every time they aren't in use. Heated barns are continuous battering from the cold wind. Some horse owners also close windows which allow their horses to look out from their stalls plus the doors at the ends of the barn.

During the day hours when you are around to better care for your horse, some horse owners utilize horse blankets. Sometimes space heaters are used to keep a temperate barn. These heaters are the kind with a hard-plastic exterior and no uncovered metal coils. When you leave the barn for lunch or for the night, the space heater needs to be turned off and unplugged. Also never leave a space heaters turned when set near stalls or any hay supplies.

Above all, it is important to remember that caring for your horses during the winter is not too difficult once you understand the basics. The principal purpose is to keep your horses as warm and at ease as possible. All you need to do is apply simple common sense.

Ted Stinson is an equine enthusiast who writes various articles on horses and the best methods of caring for a horse. Many of his topics include subjects ranging from the best horse blankets to use to what type of equine supplements work best.

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Clipping - The Basics - An Interview With a Professional

2010-03-11T05:29:00.000-08:00

Have you always wanted to know how to clip your horse? Well here are some important tips on how to do it and also a few tips for the tips.

How do I clip without leaving lines?

Don't attempt a full body clip if you have not had much experience handling horses- it is safer to pay an experienced professional clipper and watch and learn the technique. Sometimes a VET may be required to administer sedatives if the horse is excessively nervous or behaves dangerously - safety is paramount- and horses may behave unpredictably. Clipping can be very stressful and frightening for some horses especially if they have had a bad experience.

I always wash the horse and ensure the coat is completely dry before clipping. apparently dirt and damp hair bluntens blades quickly and heats them up.

Wear overalls or old clothes- you will be hairy and itchy afterward and the washing machine will never be the same.

Choose a day where you have plenty of time because it may take longer than expected if the horse doesn't stand still. A rushed job always looks bodgey.

Trim some areas( i.e. ears jaws, bridle path) with scissors first so you can gauge how the horse may react to the clippers- The horse should be relaxed when handled around its head etc before attempting a full body clip.

The clipper blades should be sharp, clean and well oiled.

I use a large set of clippers for the body and a smaller, quieter set for areas around the head/ face/ ears/ jaw and fetlocks.

Take the time to settle the horse and ensure you have a safe, uncluttered, well lit area, preferably out of the wind.

Try to use even pressure in the strokes and take your time. Jumpy horses may need gradual exposure to the noise and feel of the clippers before they relax so start with a less sensitive area.

For example:
I clipped my barely handled Arabian Warmblood for the first time in May and after about 20 mins of desensitizing with brushing and rubbing the clippers on his body- he was comfortable being clipped along his hind quarters and barrel. From there, I slowly worked my way towards his shoulder and neck- two hours later he allowed me to clip right up to his ears- but I had been taking my time, gradually working towards a sensitive area. if I had just gone straight for his neck and shoulder from the start he would have freaked and pulled back. I do a full once over then go back over any lines to remove them. The lines are just areas of longer hair so go over them again till the hair is all the same length.

If you are new to doing body clips- do it a couple of weeks before the event so any faint lines will disappear as the hair grows slightly.

I used to practice on a mini pony- he was quiet and easy to handle.

Check the temperature of the blades and oil/lubricate them every few minutes if necessary.

Blades can get blistering hot in a matter of seconds and burn the horse which will be a long remembered bad experience.

Give the horse a break- its a tiring job for both of you. This can allow the blades to cool also.

How often should I get my blades sharpened?

Depends on blade quality and number of times used and types of coats/hair - if just doing a couple of horses and touch ups- once a year may suffice but professionals sharpen theirs after each use.

Blunt blades CHEW the hair rather than cut- which looks ragged plus may pinch or hurt the horse

Blunt blades will take longer to cut through the coat, heat up quickly and not be as effective.

How do I care for my horses coat after I have clipped?

Keep a newly clipped horse warm and rugged- they will be extra sensitive to cold and rugs chaffing the shoulders etc for a few weeks. I usually add a polar fleece combo under their usual rug to compensate
for the hair loss.

Some horses (esp. those with white hair and light skin) can get sunburnt after a close body clip so cover them until the hair has grown a little.

Other horses notice a change in the feel of the saddle and girth without the hair and can buck/pigroot for the first few rides afterward so be cautious.

How do I make his coat really shiny?

Clean happy fit and healthy horses- GLOW

Show gloss sprays- pepe show spray- a major hacky fave
good diet
coat supplements
feedxl- for diet analysis
oil in diet
regular grooming/massage= healthy skin
try not to shampoo EVERY TIME you hose off - use gentle herbal or chemical-free brands to prevent dry flaky skin.

When I'm at a show, what things should I be doing to make him look the best at the show?

arrive early- let the horse get used to the atmosphere and settle. You will be more relaxed and calm too.

Education and training- there are no short cuts here.

Good presentation requires attention to detail and making an extra effort- try to be a perfectionist and see what the judge will see.

Highlight and make the most of the great features and try to downplay or camouflage flaws.

Look at the winners- learn from them and try to pick out what gave them the edge in a class.

There is no substitute for thorough preparation - dedication and commitment where you get out what you put in.

clean tidy handler/rider- be polite, friendly and courteous to other competitors- the grumpy rude ones obviously aren't having fun.

What should be in my grooming kit?

Clean body brushes, hair brushes, combs
Hoof pick/hoof black/enamel
Sponges
sharp scissors
clean cloths
Rubber bands/ thread/plaiting gear
Gloss creams/oils and horse makeup
Grooming spray
Hairspray and a mirror (for a quick once over before you go in - re
spinach in teeth etc)

What preparation do you do in the upcoming weeks to a show?

Body clip in winter (I do it in may in QLD)
Muscle/fitness conditioning - some need Lots of working down etc Chiro/farrier
Don't suddenly change diet in weeks before - esp don't overfeed - = bad behavior on the day
Tryptophan can send some horses bananas so if you plan to use it do a trial
Do all major washing and trimming the day before- I usually plait the night before but this depends on the horse.

Are there any tips or hints you could tell me that will just make life easier, or make my horse the best looking! (even if it is hard work)

Put false tail in on the morning of the show- horses need time to adjust to the feel and weight- BUT NEVER do it the night before.

If you need to dye or enhance bleached tails etc- do it weeks - not days before
Chestnuts - sandpaper off till smooth and flat- oil or blacken
Hooves- fill in gaps and sand paper before painting etc.

Plaiting verses Braiding etc
clean trimmed tails
pack a spare halter and lead and a couple of treats for good horses- its a big day for them also
ENJOY the experience of each Show- Love what you are doing whether you win or lose!!

Don't take it all too seriously- at the end of the day "judging" is only a persons opinion - just have fun trying to impress them!!!

Remember that everyone has their own way of doing things so whatever works for you is the right way for you to do it!!!

Home: http://www.horse-training-secrets-revealed.com
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Equine Spring Cleaning! Horsey Bathtime!

2010-03-01T06:44:00.000-08:00

Looking forward to a warm Spring day to give your horse that first "after winter" bath?

Select your equine shampoo carefully! You want to select a shampoo that is pH-balanced for horses and mild enough to use several times a week, if you choose to. If your horse only gets a bath a few times a year, you'll want something to simply wash away the dirt. If you bathe your horse often, you'll want to look for a gentle shampoo that also helps replenish oils in the coat and skin.

Begin by wetting the entire body with lukewarm/warm water. Mix the shampoo with warm water in a bucket. (Read the manufacturer's directions carefully - some shampoos are more
concentrated than others!) Sponge on the soapy water, and scrubbing up each section as you move along. This gentle scrubbing will help loosen and remove all the dirt, grime, and loose hair that your horse has been accumulating over the winter! At this point, if your nice white soapy-suds are turning grey, brown, or some other color, it's time to rinse that area and re-soap! As you move along, scrubbing sections, remember to keep the soapy parts wet. If they are allowed to dry, the shampoo will leave a dull film on the coat.

As for heads, horses tend to not like washing their faces! I like to place a drop or two of shampoo into a clean bucket and mix with lots of warm water. I then take a clean washcloth, dunk it, wring it out, than scrub the face & head. Although not sudsy, the surfactants are still there, getting the dirt out! After several dunks, it's time to rinse. Same thing-- clean bucket, clean warm water, clean towel. This is also the time to wipe over eyes, in ears, and nostrils.

Now it's time for manes and tails! Fold the tail in half, carefully approach from the side with a bucket filled with clean, warm soapy water, and dunk the tail in. Swish tail around, to get hairs separated. Be careful! remember that you're at the business end of the horse! After dunking, shampoo the tail the way you shampoo your own hair. Don't scrub too hard or you'll break the tail hairs.

Manes are a bit easier, although you'll get a bit wet! Take your soapy water, and scrub into the mane, working through a section at a time. Use your fingers to massage down to the skin.

Rinse both the tail and mane thoroughly, until water runs clear. Dried soap residue will make it dull, a bit dry, and even itchy!

After all is scrubbed clean, rinse well with clean running water, starting at the top and letting gravity do it's thing. It helps to gently scrub with a mitt while rinsing, allowing each hair to separate and get rinsed clean. Keep rinsing until water runs clear, with no suds! After rinsing, use a sweat scraper to remove any excess water, followed by a good toweling.

At this point, your horse is clean. You may want to consider a conditioners, especially on the mane and tail to minimize breakage. Like the shampoo, select a conditioner especially
formulated for horses. Follow product instructions, and then rinse out completely.

Afterwards, walk your horse until dry. If you're lucky, it'll be sunny and warm out, and both of you will enjoy the sunshine! If it's a bit cool out, throw on a clean antisweat sheet or a cooler, if a bit brisk.

Remember to use common sense when bathing-if you think it's too cold to be standing outside getting wet while washing your horse, it probably is too cold to bathe him, unless you have a heated wash stall and warm water!

Here are the products we recommend:
Bluegrass Bathing Glove, Xtreme Revitalizing Shampoo, and Xtreme Conditioner.

The Paddock Saddlery [http://www.paddocksaddlery.com] was established in 1986, to serve the needs of the English Equestrian in Northern Ohio's Chagrin Valley. Our customers tell us it is easy to shop in a store where they can depend on friendly, courteous service from a knowledgeable sales staff. We are dedicated to providing our customers with the finest selection of saddlery, apparel, and accessories available to fit their discipline, experience, and budget. Selection, competitive pricing, plus the availability of an ever-changing collection of gently used apparel, riding boots, and saddles have made The Paddock Saddlery the tack shop of choice for riders across the Midwest and beyond!

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Caring For Your Horse During the Winter - Winter Horse Care

2009-12-21T08:03:00.000-08:00

You pull back your curtains to reveal old man winter's masterpiece. The ground is shimmering in the sunlight. Before you or your family dares to venture out into this extraordinary white world, you bundle up in your best gear; snow boots, gloves, scarves, carry hand warmers, eat a good breakfast, and brew hot chocolate upon your return.

You might bring a water bottle with you if a snowball fight is on your mind, or a shovel to clear the driveway. The point is that if we do these things for our family, why not for our horses too? There are many problems that can occur for a horse due to winter's harsh conditions. With proper care and a bit of extra effort these problems can be easily avoided.

Cover Up!

Most horses adapt well to cold weather so stabling is not necessary. What is necessary is somewhere they can get away from the elements. A small lean-to or timberline works well for this. Many horse owners, whose horses spend the majority of time inside, invest in a horse blanket. Horses that spend more time outside, develop thick winter coats and will be more comfortable without a blanket. Horse blankets vary greatly from thickness to materials used. It is important to find a blanket that suits your horse's needs and your budget.

Rubber VS. Plastic

One of the hardest tasks winter brings is water trough maintenance. If you live in an area that frequently dips below freezing, a soccer ball floating in the trough will prevent the water from becoming a giant ice cube. Stores also carry water trough heaters for areas prone to extreme thick ice. While rubber buckets cost more than plastic ones, it's well worth your money to invest in a rubber trough. Ice can easily be removed from rubber troughs by turning the bucket upside down. Plastic troughs will freeze and crack open. Clean, available water is essential.

Feeding Time

A winter feeding program should be established before winter's first snow. Just like any other animal, a horse needs time to adjust to changes in food. One thought to consider is during the last summer months weaning your horse off pasture grass, which will be covered during the winter months, and slowly introduce more fodder into their diet. Feeding your companion more fodder during the winter months will help them to maintain a healthy body temperature. As horses digest, heat is produced. This heat produced by the digestive system is what keeps the horse warm.

Hoof Care

Proper hoof care is crucial! If a horse's hoofs are allowed to grow the chances of them cracking or chipping increases greatly. Keeping them trim will prevent any damage and give the horse better traction. Another less obvious step in hoof care is to check your horse regularly for packed ice within the hoof. When ice builds up under the hoof it is a gateway to sole bruises, which can develop into abscesses. Ice build up can be prevented by Vaseline, cooking spray or pads on the bottom of the hoof installed by your farrier.

Pasture Safety

Remove any obstacles, fix gates and fences, fill holes, and take away manure. Make sure your gates are high enough to allow them to easily pass over any snow that might build up. It is also nice to have a firm area for yourself to stand while grooming or working your horse. Winter can be brutal but with the proper horse care any horse can be safe and stay healthy throughout even the coldest of winter months.

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com.

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To Rug Or Not To Rug

2009-12-11T03:24:00.000-08:00

I hate to mention it but the days will soon start shortening, as we'll all start to want to keep warmer, and that includes our horses and ponies. We might reach for a sweater but they'll want to be rugged up, but even this simple action has some guidelines that should be observed.

The range of rugs available is getting quite mind boggling. They are becoming the horse fashion accessory of choice these days. But before you rush out and get one or more, let's see if they really need rugging up.

Native cobs and ponies for example, naturally grow very thick coats, intended to protect them in the severest weather. Providing they are able to take shelter from strong winds and excessive rains they will normally cope well.

When do they normally need to be rugged up
If they are old infirm or injured
If they are underweight or in poor condition
If they have previously suffered from rain rash
If they have been fully or partly clipped
If they are normally stabled overnight and only spend a short time out during the day
If they are thin skinned and prone to the cold
If they are kept in a very confined paddock

Once they are rugged up they shouldn't be ignored, you should check them at least once a day to make certain that the rug hasn't slipped, been torn or damaged
Remove the rug if it gets warm, but replace when it gets chilly again
Remove the rug frequently to check that they have no injuries underneath or that its chaffing or rubbing their coat and could cause a skin infection
Make sure that a spare rug is available if you have to remove the one they are wearing for any period of time

So if you have to get a rug, what should you consider
Buy a rug fit for the purpose it is required for, not as a fashion accessory. Consider any 'special needs' such as a tendency to rub at the shoulders. Some rugs are specially designed for such problems and the fabrics more resilient
When other protective clothing is used e.g. hood, bibs etc, make sure that they complement and fit with the rug, otherwise they may cause an accident that harms the horse
Measure the horse before making the purchase
Before trying on the rug make sure that the horse is very clean, and put a clean sheet over him before trying the new rug on him, this will keep it clean in case you need to change the rug
Horses change shape and grow, their rugs will need to be changed to make sure that they always fit properly
Check the type of fabric that the rug is made of. Some fabrics need to be fully wetted to allow the fibres to swell, so that it is fully waterproof. It will then need to dry off slowly before the horse can start wearing it
At the end of the season the rug will need cleaning and repairing. They are best stored being laid across a rail or thick piece of rope. It is not advisable to store them folded as the fabric may crack along the fold line and such cracks will let water in.

I hope this helps. Buying a rug can be an expensive business and you don't want to get it wrong. Once you have them they will last for years if you look after them properly.

Source: Free Articles

How To Tack Up Your Horse

2009-12-07T05:57:00.000-08:00

Correctly Fitting Your Horse Riding Saddle

2009-12-07T05:52:00.000-08:00

One of the most important things you can do to ensure the health and comfort of you and your horse is not only to select the right horse riding saddle, but properly fitting that saddle to your horse. Having a bad fit can not only create back ache and muscle pain for the rider, but it also very uncomfortable for the horse. There are companies that will measure you and your horse and suggest a correct saddle size. I highly recommend this service to begin with.

Once you have purchased the correct sized horse saddle, it is also important to remember that the position of the saddle on the horse's back is very important in making sure that the horse is comfortable while being ridden. There are basically three main muscles in the horse's back which can be negatively affected by bad saddle placement. Please familiarize yourself with these muscles and their location on your horse before you attempt to position the saddle on the horses' back.

The first thing you want to do is place the horse riding saddle on the back of the horse forward of the wither. Once you have done this, slide it backward down the horse until it cannot go any further. Do not force it. You should see now that the lowest part of the saddle should correspond to the lowest part of the horse's back. In order to verify that you positioned saddle correctly, the saddle tree should not press on the scapula or shoulder of the horse. It should lie in the groove behind it. This is a common mistake when positioning a saddle. People have a tendency to place the saddle too far up and put pressure on the scapula of the horse. This can hamper the movement of the horse as well as create saddle sores.

Properly fitting your horse saddle to your horse will come easier after the first couple times you do it. It is worth taking the time to learn the correct way to do this in order for your horse to remain happy and healthy.

Brian has been providing online content now for over 5 years. Please visit his latest website at http://www.candlemakingexpert.com to sign up for a free e course on candle making and learn the latest techniques about Candle Making Molds

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Horse Riding Through The Years

2009-12-06T10:38:00.000-08:00

Horse Riding Clothing - The #1 Most Important Piece of Clothing is a Helmet

2009-12-01T01:02:00.000-08:00

Some people find that horse riding clothing is rather chic! In fact, millions of dollars are spent each year in this industry. However, there is one piece of clothing that you cannot do without: a helmet. It matters not how chic you look if you incur a brain injury that leaves you debilitated or worse.

There is an inherent risk of injury when riding horses, just as exists in other sports. Any time you place yourself in the position to possibly sustain a head injury (by falling off) you MUST take the necessary precaution to wear a helmet. If football players find it necessary in their sport, it is certainly a requirement on the back of a horse.

The basic structure of a helmet, regardless of the exterior appearance, is a plastic shell that will spread the shock of an impact if you fall and hit your head. There is also a foam liner that works to do the same. These are the critical elements of your helmet that serve to protect you from a head injury.

Just because you have this helmet on your head, however, does not mean that it offers you any protection unless you have it properly fastened. Helmets come with a retention harness that must be connected each and every time you ride. No cheating! If your helmet flies off as you take a spill, it does you no good at all. Adjust the straps so that it keeps the helmet properly in place.

So, when is a helmet properly in place on your head? The helmet should be tight enough that once in place and fastened, your scalp moves with the helmet when you move the helmet back and forth. Wear the helmet so that it sits no more than one inch above your eyebrows, covering your forehead. If it slips forward over your eyes, it is too loose. Try on several brands until you find one that suits you best. It is vital to your health that you get this right!

Although they may look bulky, they are in fact much lighter in weight than you may think. They also have headliners, a fabric located inside the helmet with the foam liner, that is designed to keep your head dry and cool. In addition, most helmets have air vents that help keep you cool and reduce the weight somewhat.

Do NOT use a bicycle riding helmet for horseback riding! They are designed differently and do not offer the same protection as horse riding helmets. In fact, it is highly recommended that you use helmets approved by the American Society for Testing and Materials. You will see an "ASTM/SEI certified" label on the helmet which insures that the helmet has been appropriately tested for safety.

Years ago, we often did not ride our horses with helmets, nor did we wear them when on bicycles, scooters, roller skates or the like! We had horse riding clothing that usually included a good pair of boots, but helmets were not considered a necessity. Since those days, we have learned a lot about head injuries and how to protect ourselves and our children from what we may have luckily escaped.

Horse activities carry an inherent danger that requires we be constantly vigilant to abide by safe practices and habits. Whether you are leading a horse, mucking out a stall, or in the cross ties, always keep in mind the safest ways to behave to stay out of harms way. One of the easiest ways to avoid injury is wearing a helmet each and every time you ride your horse. Then and only then, go out and buy all the horse riding clothing your heart desires!

For more information about helmets and horse riding clothing and other gear please visit http://www.HorseRidingBootsGuide.com and http://www.EquestrianRiderGuide.com.

Lisa B. Blackstone has been involved in the Arabian horse business all of her life. She is a practicing attorney in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Recently, Lisa launched two websites designed to teach the novice rider about horses and horsemanship. You can visit them at http://www.HorseAndRiderClub.com and http://www.AmericanHorseAssociation.com. She is the host of The Horse and Rider Radio Show at Radio Sandy Springs.

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Practical Horse Care and Riding

2009-11-30T03:01:00.000-08:00

Learn many aspects of practical horse care and riding with practicallyhorse. In this blog I hope to not only expand the knowledge of others involved with practical horse care and riding but to expand my own knowledge also.
The blog will be regularly updated to feature many aspects of practical horse care and horse riding.
This is for those of us wanting practical help and guidance with our hoeses, their care and our riding.

Professional Demonstration of Horse Grooming

2009-11-26T11:58:00.000-08:00

Grooming Your Way Into Your Horses Good Books

2009-11-26T06:25:00.000-08:00

Grooming is something you should try to do with your horse every day it is an an act that reinforces the bond between you and your horse. Lets face it we don't need any encouragement to be around our horses, it ensures that if our four hoofed friend has any nicks or rubs we can do something to treat them and get them back up to top condition. Be structured in your approach when grooming so that no parts of horsie are missed. If you work from the nose down to the tail and back up the otherside you wont be far wrong (try not to start in different places as a piece of grit missed under say, the saddle wont be very comfortable for your horse if your sat on top of it).

When grooming ensure that you have a way out if horsie gets a little bit frisky, ive seen my horse put her foot through one of the stable doors when I used a curry come a little to quickly to far underneath! Make sure you place the brushes and hoof pick you are going to use, in a bucket so you know where everything is (curry comb in a muck pile springs to mind)

You will need:

· A rubber curry comb (I get all of my gear from hill brush co. ltd check out there website)

· A reasonable stiff bristled body brush (depends on the horses coat and skin sensitivity)

· A tail and mane comb.

Moving slowly and calmly towards your horses neck work along the horses body and legs in a circular motion with the rubber curry comb when you get to areas that are quite sensitive go gently, aim for a sigh of contentment rather than a snort of disgust. Work the dirt up to the surface of the coat using circular sweeps all over the horse's body. If the ears go back and the horse jumps about your more than likely brushing a little to briskly, so go easy until you know what you can get away with, with that specific horse.

Now that you have all of the dirt loose and out from the base of the hairs come in with the body brush and bring out the shin of the coat. Use long strokes that follow the direction of the horses hair to pull out the last of the dirt and have your horse looking fantastic (I find this really therapeutic after the quicker curry combing) With the body brush, whisk out the dirt brought to the surface by the curry comb. Once again start at the neck and work your way to the bottom of the horse back up to the neck on the other side (when your moving around the horses rump ensure you maintain contact and talk to the horse in a calm reassuring voice) I normally wash down any dirt on the legs and finish them off with the body brush (my favourite are the leather body brushes they have a better feel and mold more to the hand with time)

When doing the mane and tail it is worth, using a simple plastic comb to get the best results. I find that if you use the curry comb it can make the hair matt up so I would stick to the comb. You can use products to make the hair shinier.

But I wouldn't really recommend this as it can make things a bit slick which might feel nice when your grooming but when your riding it can make things a bit to slippy.

A finishing brush will have shorter softer bristles and may be used on your horse's or pony's face if you don't have a special brush. Gently whisk away dust from the broader areas on your horse's face, ears and throat. With sweeping strokes whisk away any dust missed by the body brush. The finer bristles help smooth out the body hair and leave your horse looking more finished. Grooming sprays can provide sun protection, and add shine to your horse's coat but they aren't necessary. If you plan to ride however, be aware that some products may make the hair slippery and could cause your saddle to shift. Try to avoid application to the saddle area.

Throughout all of this keep a fair weather eye out for scratches, and areas that might be a bit chaffed and look at how these might have been caused and remedy them. Ensure the hooves are cleaned out with a hoof pick and put a bit of hoof oil round if their looking a bit dry.

Most importantly the more you look after your four hoofed friend the more inclined they will be to look after you. Enjoy!!!

You can find lots of horse brushes information at hill brush UK or Grooming brushes for those in the USA.

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