Precision Restorations Blog

67 Cadillac Deville frame off Cadillac restoration

Justin Benz — Mon, 18 Nov 2013 20:48:00 GMT

We’re starting working on this big old Cadillac Deville. The Caddy will get the works from a full paint job, to full mechanical restoration and interior restoration. The owner is looking for a vehicle that is going to last a long time in order to hand it down to his children and what better way that to restore this thing from top to bottom.

This 67 Cadillac has had the engine and transmission pulled to send it to the machine shop. The old Caddy’s engine compartment is full of wires and vacuum hose along with a ton of miscellaneous brackets and clips. Before we started we took loads of pictures to give ourselves a nice visual reference for re assembly.

The interior has for the most part been gutted. Pulling the carpet and insulation revealed some rust on the floor pans that was not visible from the underside. This is something that will eventually be addressed after we have stripped the rest of the body.

As of now the body is on its way down to nothing. We’re removing all of the trim and the body panels will eventually go. We will eventually pull the body from the frame to thoroughly clean blast and undercoat the bottom side. At this time we will also be painting the frame before it goes back together.

This is major project with many different aspects and will be an awesome car to drive as it floats down the freeway. The Cadilliac restoration will be one to note a prime example of “they don’t make ‘em like the used to”.

Sanding and buffing basics

Justin Benz — Mon, 18 Nov 2013 20:47:00 GMT

A high quality paint jobs is nothing without the tedious task of sanding and buffing the clear coat. A highly skilled painter can make a paint job look good without sanding and buffing, but those extra steps are what can take good to great. Sanding and buffing is vital to any high quality paint job and these some of the steps we take to meet and exceed our standards.

It all starts with the paint job. Minimal dirt, no runs, and an even texture make sanding the clear coat that much easier. You must start with a clean surface. The number one thing that will cause problems with buffing is dirt in your sand paper. The foreign dirt and debris can get caught between the paper and clear coat and will cause a scratch that will not buff out. Blowing off the surface with compressed air and cleaning with a damp towel will remove the chance for contamination.

Different people have different ways of sanding and buffing a car. People have differing opinions on what grit paper to use, how many steps to take, and to dry sand or wet sand. We use a combination of different grit papers and wet and dry sanding to obtain the level we are looking for.

The first stage starts with 1000 grit paper. The paper made by 3M is often referred to as a film. This film is attached to a finishing dual action sander (called a D/A). It is important at this stage to not sand too much. As finishing sand papers go, 1000 grit is pretty course, so off of sharp body lines and edges is essential to keep from sanding through the clear coat. The 3M film is designed to use dry, so using compressed air will help the surface clean. Blowing off the paint surface and sand paper is important to saying free of dirt build up.

The D/A is used to “knock down” the dirt nibs in the paint, and even out the texture on the larger surfaces. Replacing paper often is important to keep the cutting surface fresh and consistent. Sanding needs to take place in steps working from 1000 and moving to a finer grit like 1500 and then on to 2000 grit. Use these finer grit papers in the same manner as the first and with each step sanding closer and closer to the edges. The finer grit papers help smooth the scratches from the courser grits which will in turn make buffing easier.

The proper use of the D/A is also very important. Using the correct interface pads, proper air pressure, and keeping the moisture out of the system will help keep the dust from collecting and balling up on the paper. The sander should always stay moving and off of sharp lines and edges. Paper should be free of rips and tears. Anything other that paper to paint has the potential to create an un buffable scratch.

Before buffing, a final sand using a 3000 grit paper that is attached to a foam back up pad is used. The 3000 grit paper can be used wet. It’s best to used water from a squirt bottle. The water helps keep the surface lubricated and clean. The 3000 grit pad has very little cutting ability. It acts as almost a pre-buff, leveling out the sanded surfaces from the courser grit papers. After sanded all surfaces should be cleaned and wiped down with a soft wet cloth then dried. This will help make sure all dirt nibs have been sanded smooth and all surfaces have been sanded evenly.

Buffing also involves lots of practice and skill, but starting slow will help you get a feel for the tool and the paint. Using a variable speed 8” buffer with a wool pad start slow and spread the compound over a smaller area. Keep the compound from slinging across the room. Not only does it make a mess, but will stain walls and paint if left unclean.

Buffing creates heat. This heat can burn the paint if you’re not careful. Using too little compound won’t bring the paint to a shine and run the risk of burning the paint. Too much compound can etch into the paint and create a build up that can be hard to buff off. A good rule can be about a 4” bead of compound to one square foot of buffing surface. The biggest thing to know is to keep moving. Staying in place will only cause the paint to heat up and burn.

After you have made it through with the heavy cut compound and a wool pad, there can be a series of steps that can be taken to remove swirl marks and the finer scratches left from the wool pad. A once over with a foam pad and compound, then a softer foam pad and polish, followed by a hand polish will make your fresh paint shine like no other. When finished, clean all compound out of the jambs, clean up any sludge from sanding, and make sure all excess compound is cleaned from any cracks and crevasses.

Sanding and buffing is a skill that takes time to learn. It’s not for the faint of heart. When done correctly it will take a mediocre paint job to the next level with a little bit of time and elbow grease.

1968 Z/28 Camaro Muscle Car - Driver Restoration

Justin Benz — Fri, 15 Nov 2013 17:27:00 GMT

1968 Camaro Muscle Car - Driver Restoration

This ’68 Camaro is on the books for a paint job and interior restoration. This muscle car is having the paint stripped and interior gutted for now. Even though the paint looked pretty good we still wanted to discover what was underneath.

Overall the Camaro is pretty solid. It had quite a bit of unnecessary body filler and a few older rust patches. I have said it over and over, but this is the number one reason to strip a car. It is important to find the problem areas before they blow up on you down the road.

As of right now we have tore down the body, removed the interior, stripped the paint, acid etched primed, and sealed the body.

We will reevaluate the body work and start making the proper repairs before we send this Camaro back to the paint department.

1987 Buick Grand National is getting a paint job face lift

Justin Benz — Thu, 14 Nov 2013 14:37:00 GMT

This T-top '87 Buick Grand National came in for a face lift. The vehicle had been the unfortunate victim of a key job. Luckily the car was in such nice shape to begin with, a paint job is all that was in order for this classic 80’s muscle car.

This paint job was about as simple as they come when it comes to paint. The first step involved fixing the key scratches. Most of the small key scratches came out with just a heavy sanding. The remaining scratches were repaired with just a skim coat of filler. The Grand Nationals paint was in such nice shape it wasn’t even necessary to strip.

We almost completely dismantled the body to avoid any paint lifting or peeling issues down the road. We also repaired just a few dents and dings this thing received throughout its life. After a few good coats of primer it was ready to sand and paint.

Back to black was the plan. Having all the little bumper pieces, mirrors, and fillers painted give the face lift it deserved. After the clear coat, and a run through the bake cycle, sanding and buffing was next on the list. No paint job is complete without being slicked down with a good sanding and buffing.

We’ll put the Grand National back together except for the emblems. After a final buff and polish we’ll stick these emblems back on and send it down the road.

1971 Ford Torino convertible - Frame off Restoration

Justin Benz — Tue, 12 Nov 2013 16:30:00 GMT

After a long search for a useable body we were able to come up with formidable candidate for the 1971 Ford Torino convertible, frame off restoration. The parts car is a hardtop shell that will give us many of the parts that are not available on the aftermarket. This shell will give us the small pieces that will reduce the amount fabrication substantially.

Before any of the rebuilding work can be done we must first take the car down to almost the smallest piece. The rocker panels on the Torino are made into three pieces, an outer panel, inner panel, and a third brace that is only used on convertibles.

We will essentially be making the hard top into a convertible. This involves using the entire extra bracing the convertible uses. Cutting the car apart into each individual piece helps with the fabrication of miscellaneous bracing and pieces.

1990 Camaro Convertible - Driver restoration

Justin Benz — Mon, 04 Nov 2013 17:34:00 GMT

1990 Chevy Camaro Convertible

The Camaro came in with some tired paint, tired seats, and not quite running the way it should. We turned this thing around with a new paint job, new leather seats, and a tune up with valve adjustments, The Camaro also received a tunable Borla exhaust system, and Kicker audio system.The only thing left is to get into some convertible weather to put the top down and cruise.

The Camaro was stripped to bare metal, before the fresh black was applied. Sanding and buffing makes the black look endlessly deep.

Leather seats give the interior the extra touch of class and comfort.

The tunable Borla exhaust made the car sound just as good as it looks.

The Camaro was also equipped with a Viper alarm system that will keep it secure. With GPS tracking and the ability to start right from an iPhone, this '90 Camaro has features many brand new vehicles are lacking.

The deep black paint job and the new leather covers have this ready for the road and turning heads.

Winterizing your Classic Car, Antique Car, or Muscle Car

Justin Benz — Tue, 29 Oct 2013 13:13:00 GMT

Prepare your car for the winter.

Winter time is just about here and for some the driving season is almost over. Many cars are parked and never touched until the spring. These are just a few tips for winterizing you classic car and storing you car for an extended period of time. To ensure you will be ready for the road next spring.

Fuel

One of the first things to go during an extended storage is the fuel. The properties of gasoline can break down within six months. Gasoline that has gone bad can cause a multitude of problems from poor performance, to clogged fuel filters, and even causing internal problems within a carburetor. The life of the fuel can be extended buy using a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-bil. When used correctly the life of the fuel can be extended for up to two years.

Add the fuel stabilizer to your fuel before filling up. This will help to ensure it is mixed in thoroughly. It seems strange to add fuel just before storing, but an empty tank will allow air and moisture to exposed metal surfaces causing possible corrosion and rust. Just before storing add your full stabilizer and fill your tank. After you have filled your tank, it is a good idea to put on a few miles to allow the treated fuel to circulate through the system.

Maintenance

Regular maintenance is never a bad idea before storage. Changing you oil, oil filter, transmission fluid, and axel lubricants will help keep any dirt and debris out of the system, some of which can break down the viscosity and lubricating properties of the oil.

If your engine is completely sealed before you store your vehicle, don’t be too surprised to see a few drips of oil the next spring after you drive is a few time. Some seals can dry out over an extended period of sitting, causing minor leaks as they expand and seal after a few times of being oil soaked and heated.

In colder temperatures it is very important to make sure your cooling system is filled with good antifreeze. It’s a good idea to have you coolant good for up to at least -20*. This will help any freezing over the cold winter months and protect the radiator hoses and engine block form cracking or popping a freeze plug.

During periods of long storage, its recommend that you remove the battery cables from the battery. Clocks and other items will eventually cause the battery to drain and electrolysis will cause the terminals to corrode. With the battery unhooked a battery tender is a good way to keep you battery in top shape.

Tires

If possible it’s a good idea to put your car on jack stands. After extended periods of sitting, tires can form flat spots. These flat spots can ruin a set of tires, by throwing them out of balance and keeping the tires from holding the weight of the car will help prevent these flat spots.

Interior

The best way to protect you interior over the winter months is to give it a thorough cleaning. Critters and mice like to find their way into the interior of cars, and cleaning up a food source like small crumbs underneath a seat will reduce the chances of a live in guest.

Leather seats should be conditioned. Vinyl dashes, seats, and door panels, should also be wiped down thoroughly with a vinyl and plastic protectant. This will help preserve these pieces as best as possible.

Exterior

I have never been a fan of car covers. Far too often I’ve seen scratched cars because of covers, but during long storage a cover is not a bad idea. When used carefully car coves will help tremendously to protect the paint, but when the proper steps are not taken a car cover can do more harm than good.

The first step is to clean your car thoroughly. Remove any tar or bug guts from rocker panels and grills. These things will stain paint and chrome so make sure you have taken your time when cleaning. After your car has cleaned and free from foreign objects, apply a good wax. This wax will help the paint when in contact with a car cover.

A water proof cover with a soft underside is the best option. Make sure you examine the cover for dirt and debris. When a vehicle is stored indoors is not as critical to fully secure a cover, but in outdoor situations it’s vital. Make sure the cover snug and free from loose fitting material. In windy situations the extra mater can blow and flap in the wind. This movement between the body and cover will eventually cause scratches and possibly wear through the paint.

Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust

Justin Benz — Thu, 24 Oct 2013 18:26:00 GMT

Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust

The sound and looks of an exhaust system are just as important as any other system on a vehicle. Having the sound you want can give your car a whole new personality, and add to the character of your ride. Avoiding leaks, rattles, and vibrations are essential to hearing the full effects of your exhaust system rather than hearing the noise it creates.

An exhaust system starts at the manifolds and headers. Quality parts are just the beginning. The first step is to ensure you have a clean and true sealing surface from the head to the manifold. This involves an inspection of the parts being installed. Big grooves, cracks, and uneven sealing surface will be sure to cause a leak, so taking the proper precautions to seal and ensure bolts are tight will help keep away those annoying header and manifold leaks.

Headers are notorious for leaking caused bolts backing off. That’s why it’s a good idea to use locking systems like Stage 8 Locking Fasteners manufactures. These are designed to prevent backing off and will help seal thing for the long term.

The type of material used is also crucial to keeping an exhaust system working well long term. Aluminized and stainless tubing are the best routes to go. Aluminized pipe is very common and is the lesser expensive option. Stainless is an even better way to go, but the down fall is cost. Stainless exhaust can be polished to a shine so this is a great option to add to the underside of your show car. Not every shop will bend and weld stainless exhaust systems as it uses special benders and highly trained welders.

The premade exhaust system is something that can be very enticing. The pre-bent system comes with its down falls. In many cases these systems are poor fitting and require additional bending and welding. True “bolt on” systems are hard to come by and don’t compare to a system that is made right there at the car. For the “do it yourselfer” a pre-bent exhaust system can come in handy, but you should always proceed with caution when purchasing and installing these systems.

A quality exhaust system is also properly secured. In a factory restoration, original style hangers and brackets are used. In a custom application, the system needs to be secured with plenty of clearance from floors, cross members, fluid lines, and axels. As the engine torques and vibrates, or axels move, clearances change which can easily cause annoying rattles and vibration. All hangers and bracket need to be rubber insulated with enough play and movement to clear any solid surfaces.

Whether you want you ride quite or loud, in order to enjoy the sound of that engine, you will need to make your exhaust system free of leaks and rattles. This is easily done by inspecting part, securing mufflers and pipes, and making sure you have plenty of clearance. When broken down its pretty simple stuff, but having an exhaust system custom made is always a better choice over your pre-fabricated, pre-made, off the shelf exhaust in a box.

A Driver quality isn't low quality

Justin Benz — Tue, 22 Oct 2013 19:24:00 GMT

Driver quality doesn’t mean low quality

Not everyone wants a complete custom vehicle with every option and every detail addressed with a fine tooth comb. Many are in the market for a “Driver” quality job. The fact of the matter is sometimes the only difference between the “Driver” quality and “Show” quality come in the details. Details are what can take a car over the top and addressing some of these details, will surely make you “driver” stand out.

Driver quality does not have to mean low quality. Many people feel as though by describing a job to be driver quality it suggests that many systems do not need to be fixed. This can be true many cases, but in many others not addressing issues may not only be ineffective to cost, but eventually become a safety hazard. I will list a few of these things that can be often overlooked when “Driver” quality is suggested.

Paint and body is the number one thing that is often thought to reduce cost. This is true in many cases. An additional block sand and primer, or re-sanding and clearing to give a deeper gloss, or taking the time to make sure every little paint imperfection is removed are some of the things that can be done to take a paint job to the next level.

Stripping a car is another factor that is sometimes questioned for a driver quality job. Many people feel as though there paint looks pretty nice and just needs to be buffed out. This may be the case, but if a paint job is in order, the only way to fix it is to fix it right. Meaning that the paint still needs to be stripped, rust still needs to be fixed, and dents and dings need to be straightened. That little ding now is only highlighted by a fresh paint job.

The under body is another place that is often to be thought of as a place that can be left untouched for a driver quality job. In many cases the under body can be totally left alone, in many others rust in the floor boards prevents from leaving these areas original. Not repairing a rusty floor board and making the paint look new is not the smartest choice.

When it comes to the mechanical system on a “driver”, main concerns should be safety and reliability. Safety is usually overlooked first. This includes things like suspension bushings, rusty brake lines, or old wiring. These are all systems than can be potentially hazardous if not addressed. If a vehicle is being driven on a regular basis, it needs to be much more than just functional.

Reliability is also another aspect of a driver. The term Driver comes from the description that someone wants to “drive” the vehicle on a regular basis. This being said, reliability is also key. Things like major oil leaks, rebuilding carbs and fuel systems, and ensuring the charging system is working properly are essential for ensuring the vehicle will start easily every time.

The main goal is to make your vehicle fully functional and looking presentable. A driver restoration can be a great way to get your classic or muscle car back on the road. But a driver restoration is still a “restoration” and repairing things right, fixing them to last is still at the top of the list. A driver restoration is much more than just making a vehicle functional. It takes smart thinking and good planning to ensure the investment is worth it.

How to Choose a color for your restoration.

Justin Benz — Mon, 21 Oct 2013 16:39:00 GMT

Thinking about changing colors – What to consider.

Choosing a paint color for you restoration can be quite a struggle. With subtle differences from one color to the next, finding that perfect color takes a little bit of patience and home work. These are a few tips to help you choose what fits, what looks good, and what will ultimately make you happy.

The first place to start is the original color. Depending on how you plan to restore you ride, you should at least consider the original color. Many older vehicles have an identification tag or plate that will give you information about the original color. When you can’t find this information, you will need a visual reference. Even an old rusty car may have some of the original paint under a bolt or a piece of trim, but the best reference needs to be on the body its self. Bolt on parts like doors and fenders are easily replaceable, and may have been replaced throughout its life. Using the body shell is your safest bet when it comes to discovering your original color.

When deciding on the original color, the first thing to consider is how original you plan to keep the car. If you have an all numbers matching Super Sport Chevelle, it may not be the best decision to change colors. On the other had if you have a 6 cylinder Malibu, and plan make some significant changes to the drive train and interior, changing colors wouldn’t be a big deal.

Varying from the original color may cause additional work that may not have been considered. To properly change colors, door jams, engine compartments, and even the insides of quarter panels in the truck need to be painted. For this to happen, panels need to be removed, and proper prep work need to be done to ensure the paint in the jambs holds up as long as the exterior. The goal with a color change is to completely eliminate any signs of the old color, whether it’s around bolt heads , on hinges, or even in the interior, a color change needs to be complete for things to look correct.

When changing from the original color, I always try to use a color from within the same era. Using color charts from the same year make and model is a good reference point. Finding what alternative colors could have been used on the car from the factory.

The next step to take is finding colors from different makes and models from around the same time frame. Your color can still be era correct, but may not be a specific color designated to that car. The older color chip books can usually be found at a local paint distributor.

Another place to look for your new color is on the new and used car lots. Take a stroll through a dealership finding what catches your eye. Take down the year, make, and model, if you know where to look a paint code is always helpful.

After you have come up with your ideas, have your restoration shop mix and spray you samples. We paint individual 4” x 6” cards for samples. These cards can be compared side by side, tilted and turned, and looked at in the sun and shade to give you comparisons from one color or shade to the next.

Overall a color change is up to your individual taste. There’s no reason you should go through the steps of restoration or paint job and not get what you want. This biggest thing to do is rely on the opinions of the paint professionals, and make sure you eliminate what you don’t like before you decide on what you like. A paint color is about personal opinion, so get what you want.

Ford F-100 Restomod truck -

Justin Benz — Fri, 18 Oct 2013 18:31:00 GMT

64 Ford F-100 – Muscle Truck – Project update

It’s been a little while since the last time we updated the progress on the truck. Since we knew we were going to have to repair a substantial amount of rust we wanted to make sure our replacement sheet metal was lined out and ready to go. Most of it is here and we’re ready to rock and roll.

Before we go cutting this frame in half we need to make sure the body is solid. We will be fitting the frame to the body and not the body to the frame. This means we need to have a solid body before we try and modify any part of the frame. In order to have a solid body we must first repair the existing rust. This means floor boards, cab mounts, A-pillars, rocker panels, and cab corners.

Stripping the truck unveiled a ton of rust. Most of which was just filled with body filler. (A common theme among poorly restored vehicles). We used three different sources for our sheet metal parts. LMC, Mac’s Antique Auto Parts, and NPD were among the sources.

We’ve started this process by first stripping and sandblasting the outer shell of the body, and the underside of the floor. This revealed all of the hidden damage, while also exposing the problems we already saw.

The next steps involved etch primer, and sealer to prevent any flash rust on the good surfaces. The etch primer bites into the bare metal giving a strong surface for any other materials that will be applied. The sealer creates a non porous coating to prevent any moisture penetration.

We are not in the process of removing some of the severely rusted panels. Removing these reveals even more rust that will be media blasted before any repairs are made. Once the rust is removed we can start fitting, fabricating, and welding our new panels in place. Check back soon for more progress.

Automotive plumbing - bending & routing the smart way

Justin Benz — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 17:22:00 GMT

A clean fuel and brake system are essential to long term performance. In order to keep these systems clean brake and fuel lines often need to be replaced. In the aftermarket world companies like Classic Tube and The Right Stuff Detailing manufacture pre-bent kits for vast array of vehicles. These kits can come in OEM steel or stainless steel. Depending on your ultimate goal your decision is completely up to you.

In the event that your vehicle’s lines are not available and you are forced to bend you own, bending and routing your lines properly is extremely important. Having your lines routed properly will reduce the risk of failure due to kinks, snags, or leaks. These are few things to consider while plumbing your restoration. They will help you understand the basics of plumbing and routing.

The first thing to know understand is that links and couplers are never a good idea. These are just one additional are that can potentially cause a leak, especially when it comes brake lines. Brake lines can operate at pressures of 1600- 1800 psi, and at this pressure, any flare or coupler can be susceptible to leaking. The solution to this is buying your line in long rolls rather than pre flared straight sticks. This will give you a much longer run of line before a flare is necessary.

Clean bends and turns are always a plus. There is no substitute for a good bending tool. Not using a good tool will increase your risk of a kinked or collapsed line. Tubing benders can be fairly inexpensive and will be your best friend with keeping your plumbing clean. Sharp turns and angles can be easily made using a good bender, without ruining your tube trying to bend things by hand.

Properly securing your brake and fuel lines are important to good plumbing. These lines can easily be the source for rattles and noises. As the line is not completely rigid and dangling or loose lines can shake and rattle. Loose lines are also hazards for getting snagged. Whether you have a frame dragging low rider or a lifted off road truck, There are always hazards that could possibly snag a brake or fuel line causing catastrophic damage. Make sure you fuel and brake lines are tucked to the bottom of the vehicle at tight as possible and secured clamps that hold the line tight without crushing.

Be aware of moving parts, especially on axels and suspension. Far too often we see vehicles with smashed lines and poorly working brakes because the installer did not take into account the travel of the suspension. Obviously flexible hoses need to be used on these moving suspension parts, but hard lines along rear ends can become crushed by low hanging exhaust. Front rubber lines can be crushed in a coil spring or become stretched and stressed during turning. When attaching your lines, be sure to consider the travel of moving parts.

Indifferent areas a hard line may extend from a fully stationary point to a point that has slight movement or flex. (Such as a master cylinder to a frame sub frame bolted in with rubber mount to the body.) In many cases there is vibration and movement between the two mounting surfaces. Between these surfaces is it best to allow for your hard line to have some play. This play can be done by adding “coils” or “S” shapes in lines. These shapes allow for more flexibility of the line to prevent excessive wear, bending, or splitting of the steel line.

Overall, plumbing is mostly common sense. Taking the time to make things look right and perform right is the key. Sloppy new lines are not only ugly, but are unsafe and unprofessional.

Replacing floor pans - One piece pans vs. patches

Justin Benz — Wed, 16 Oct 2013 15:05:00 GMT

Patch a pan or replace a floor.

A difficult decision with any restoration comes in the matter of patching a floor pan or replacing the entire floor. This goes for a cabin floor board or a trunk pan, both involve the same types of labor so the rules generally apply for both. Making the repairs the right way will not only improve the look of the job, but reduce labor and cost.

Over the years I have seen patched up floor boards that could have been replaced with a one piece floor for less cost and less labor. On the contrary I have seen one piece floor boards replaced so horribly that the benefits of the one piece pan were negated by the poor quality installation. These are just a few tips on how to make that decision.

The first thing realize that when you decide to repair your rusty floor, you need to understand that those few rust holes that you see now are only going to get bigger as you clean things up. Just removing carpet along can take a quarter sized holes and turn it in to a dollar sized cavity. The thing to take from this is to not be afraid to change directions. The original small patch may turn into a multitude of other repairs and the decision on how to repair the damage should be based upon the repair itself, not by the parts lying around, or amount of labor already invested. If you have made it this far, there should be nothing stopping you from doing things the best way possible.

Upon an original assessment of the situation, you must consider parts availability. What parts are available? Cost of those options? Does the part give you exactly what you need? In many cases your options are limited, but in many others, partial pans, half of a pan or a full one piece pan is available depending on your make and model.

To go through the list these are a few of the benefits and draw backs of each type of pan. I’ll start with the basic floor patch panel. These pans usually cover the most common areas that rust on you particular vehicle. The patch panels only cover some of the most common areas that rust on you particular vehicles. They are meant to only use a portion or sections of a panel. Yes, you can use the entire thing in some cases, but the overall fit and detail may not be quite right. A benefit of these pieces is in many cases can be installed with the body still on the frame or while the vehicle is still together. Now you have to take in consideration the fuel lines or brake lines and cleaning, sealing and painting the underside. The patches are used for smaller areas and work great in many cases, but when you get into using the entire piece it may be time to consider moving up to a half pan.

Floor pan halves are usually not true halves. In most cases the halves don’t make a whole. They are more like larger versions of just a standard floor patch panel. The benefit to these is the coverage area. They can cover a much larger area keeping two patches down to one. In some cases these larger panels may be all that is available and an entire one piece pan is not an option.

Full one piece pans are great. They require less finish work than a patch. In most cases they attach in the factory location. A full pan does take extra effort to install when compared to a single patch panel, but it will save time when compared to cutting welding and fining multiple patch panels. Full one piece pans do come with a higher part cost, but is well worth it in time savings and quality when the option presents itself.

The task of replacing an entire floor pan can be quite overwhelming. Having the right tools and preparing yourself for more that what you had initially intended will ensure you make the right decision. A floor pan is the foundation for all of the body and making sure you car or truck is solid from the ground up will ensure your starting out on the right foot.

Document your restoration progress

Justin Benz — Tue, 15 Oct 2013 20:43:00 GMT

Document your progress

One of the most important parts of a restoration is documenting progress. This documentation takes place throughout the job and can be a life saver in the end. You never know when you might need to refer to an old photo or note you have made to make sure you’re going back together the same way it came apart. These at first seem like common knowledge, but without the reinforcement of those thoughts, you may just pass up the perfect opportunity to save some time down the road.

The smallest of details can make all of the difference, whether it’s the configuration of a throttle bracket, the routing of the heater hoses, or the order in which you took it apart. The first thing to do before you take anything apart is to create a photo database. This will give you a starting reference point. Take pictures from all angles, close ups, and wide angle shots. These not only help with getting things back together, they will help you remember what parts were missing and what was already broken. A terrible feeling is finding a broken part wondering if it was you who damaged it in storage.

When restoring any car from top to bottom, there can be thousands, of parts, pieces and screws. There is no way even the smartest of people could keep track of all this in their head. This is why it can be extremely helpful to take notes along the way. They can be as simple or as detailed as you want, but should represent the important things you noticed along the way. Just a “broken, bad, or missing” parts list can be the difference in months of down time waiting for one small miscellaneous part.

Your notes can also serve as you personal instruction manual on how the car came apart. Writing down things like the specific order the trim needs to be installed, or “leave bolts loose until weather strip is install”. These simple notes can be your guiding light as you work your way from a bare shell to a finished product.

Tagging, bagging, and labeling you parts is one of the most important parts of any rebuild, especially when working on more than one project at a time. Labeling baggies of bolts, screws, and parts makes finding that specialty trim screw that much easier to spot. All you will need is some zip lock bags in assorted sizes, a little masking tape, and a Sharpie marker.

Taking pictures of your progress will help you in step of the way. From tear down, to body repairs, to final assembly, having a photographic journal will not only help put the pieces back together, but will give you the satisfaction of showing everyone else how far it’s come.

1970 Dodge Coronet R/T - Muscle Car Restoration - Project update

Justin Benz — Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:05:00 GMT

The body work rust repair work on the 70 Coronet R/T. Starting off stripping the body to bare metal and sand blasting any rust we were able to unveil a few more issues that originally thought. Rust in the wheel lip, around the back glass, and the trunk drop off panels all need a little extra attention. The repair of this rust was made a bit easier with panels from AMD (Auto Metal Direct). A full trunk floor, trunk drop off panels, a full quarter panel skin, a quarter panel patch, and rear window frame corners, were all used to repair the rotten sheet metal, along with some fancy fabrication work by Waylon.

We started out repairing the rust in the rear window frame. The entire rear window panel was removed to access the inner structure. He carefully drilled out spot welds to remove as much as possible without destroying the delicate rusty pieces. The pieces were used as templates for fabricating the new ones. He fabricated the piece by cutting it into three different pieces in order to form the shape appropriately. Fitting the new rear window panel along the way, he was able to keep everything fitting accordingly. After all of the fabrication work was completed the new rear window panel was welded back into place.

Next on the agenda was the trunk floor. The trunk floor was removed by trim the forward edge past any corrosion and drilling all spot welds on the frame rails. Once removed it allowed access to the insides of the frame rails. With the frame rails open is was a great opportunity to sand blast the insides to remove and scales and coat them to prevent any future corrosion. During this the tail panel was also removed. In order to get our new one piece trunk floor in place we needed a bigger opening other than just the trunk. With the tail pan removed the new floor slips right into place. Using many screws the floor is secured in place before welding. This ensures the floor pan stays in place and is held tight to its adjacent piece. Once all spot weld holes have been drilled, weld through primer has been applied, and new floor is screwed down, the floor can be welded in place with confidence.

The quarter panel repairs are next on the list. Removing the entire quarter on the left and the patch on the right gives access to the trunk drop off panels. Replacing these is done at the same time the quarter panel pieces are replaced making sure everything is fitting along the way. The quarter extension on the left side is going to need a little modifying to fit properly, but Waylon has it handled. The dents, and rust to the original quarter did not make sense to repair, the best option was to replace it.

At this point the ’70 Coronet R/T is waiting for the new pair of sub frame connectors before any straightening work is completed. The sub frame connectors will eliminate any chance of cracking or flexing as the body work is preformed. After all of the straightening has been completed the next step with the paint booth where this muscle car will go thought the stages of sanding, prepping, and painting.

What's a rat rod? - Our definition

Justin Benz — Fri, 11 Oct 2013 13:00:00 GMT

What's a "Rat Rod"?

The term “Rat Rod” is something that has not yet been defined within the automotive world. Industry leaders, general car guys, and builders all have different opinions on what a rat rod really is. This being said I’m just another person weighing in on the conversation. My views are what most of us here at Precision believe and will almost fight for. We are passionate about what we do, we are passionate about the vehicles we build, and we want to make sure that every car we build is built with high standard of quality, safety, and reliability.

Rat Rods are generally can be described as wild, over the top, inexpensive, so ugly there cool, and built from the scraps of anything lying around. Usually unsafe, unreliable, and probably shouldn’t be on the road. In my opinion this is a pretty fair description. Safety, quality, and reliability are words rarely associated with a rat rod. If something is built with a high standard of quality does that eliminate it from the “Rat Rod” category? If something is built with safety in mind does that eliminate it from the “Rat Rod” category? Is the term “rat rod” a term of endearment or is it just another category of build?

There are back yard mechanics and car guys who just try to slap a piece of junk together, completely disregarding any type of standards. They conveniently call it a “rat rod” and get loads of attention because of this “I don’t care” rebel attitude. One can say that this is OK. One can say the creativeness, originality, and resourcefulness is something to be respected. That I will agree to. What I can’t agree to is the total lack of care when it comes to safety and quality. If a person wants to build the ugliest piece of junk out of a pile of old parts that’s understandable, bad taste can be overlooked. But refusing to meet a certain level of quality and safety cannot. Overlooking or disregarding a potential safety hazard is dangerous and should absolutely never be tolerated within the world of hot rodding.

Something else that gets mixed up in the “rat rod” debate is what shouldn’t be included into this category. Vehicles that have flat paint, highly customized vehicles, little or no chrome, pitted or patina chrome, or just an unfinished car get unfairly categorized as a “rat rod”. If a car doesn’t have shiny paint and chrome does not automatically make it a “rat rod”.

What’s in a name? Well… everything!!! Until the days where junk is considered junk and not just put into a category because it looks a certain way, does a name matter. So the question still remains – What’s a “rat rod”? For now a “rat rod”, to me, is considered a home built vehicle, built by unqualified technicians, trying to just make a statement with a disregard to anything else. On the flip side of this, it doesn’t mean every “rat rod” out there is just plain junk. Considerations have to be made to the level of quality and the ultimate safety and drivability of any vehicle. As some point a car has to make its way out of the bottomless pit know as a “rat rod” and truly be considered a real hot rod, custom, or cruiser.

1966 Chevy C-10 - Restomod Restoration - Project Update

Justin Benz — Tue, 01 Oct 2013 17:29:00 GMT

Little primer, little sanding, little paint, little buffing, and the next thing we know the truck is looking pretty again. Of course this is a simplified way of explaining this, but getting this C-10 painted is a huge step towards finishing this restomod. During the preparation for paint we applied stain and poly to the wood bed floor. When the new floor is paired up the stainless steel bed strips, the floor looks more like a high end piece of furniture rather than a place to throw your tools or a load of mulch.

The C-10 was sprayed with a GM dark red called Crystal Claret Red. It was accented with basic GM silver that’s found on most new GM vehicles. Before final assembly the truck is sanded and buffed. Starting with 1000 grit sanding film working our way all the way to 3000 grit and a three stage buffing process gives the paint a look nicer that any factory paint job on the market.

The next stages will involve the final installation of the steering column, heater box, clutch and throttle linkages, and the engine harness and ECM for the Ram Jet. We will assemble as much as possible before install in the fenders and hood. This allows for easier access without running the risk of damaging the new panels. Once these few items are install we will really start to trim this thing out. New weather strips, new, lenses and bezels, bumpers, grill, and will put this old Chevy truck back on the in style.

St. Louis Museum of Transportation 1946 Street Car

Justin Benz — Mon, 23 Sep 2013 16:27:00 GMT

St. Louis Museum of Transportation 1946

Street Car

Here at Precision Restorations we have a passion and a love for all things that go, from motorcycles, to cars, to trucks, to planes and trains. This is why we were grateful to help the St. Louis Museum of Transportation with some of the restoration work on their 1946 PCC (Presidents Conference Committee) Street Car. Steve Seigerist, who is one of the volunteers helping to restore this piece of St. Louis history, contacted us about restoring the seats in the street car.

This street car was built in St. Louis right off of Hall Street by the St. Louis Car Co. This was a PCC designed car that ran all over the St. Louis area into the late 1950's. It was then moved to San Francisco where it was in service until 1982. The St. Louis Museum of Transportation acquired the street car in the early 1990's and the restoration work began in 2007. Almost all of the restoration is being completed by the volunteers from the St. Louis Chapter National Railway Historical Society. They can be found working at the museum on Thursdays and Saturdays, just ask a museum volunteer, and they will point you in the right direction.

The work is still in progress for this street car and should be ready for the rail in the spring-summer of 2014. Check out the pictures below to see some of the progress we're making and be sure to visit and support the museum as they are a vital part of the automobile and transportation history.

Basic sheetmetal alignment tips for a muscle car restoration.

Justin Benz — Fri, 20 Sep 2013 13:29:00 GMT

Poorly aligned panels will stand out even on the nicest of paint jobs. These are a few basic sheetmetal alignment tips will help make your gaps nice and straight.

Don’t call it done until everything is fit. Often the inexperienced person will take one panel at a time and spend hours trying to make it fit the adjacent panel. This can be a huge time waster as one thing may affect the other. For example when fitting the front clip on a muscle car, an adjustment to your right fender may work its way back to the necessary adjustment to the left door.

I like to start with my doors. With many cars of the muscle car era, adjustments are almost unlimited. I will get my doors aligned to the quarter panel as best as possible. Making sure the gap on both sides are even with each other.

I will next move to the fenders. Fit one, then the other. Matching them to the door making sure both door to fender gaps are even as possible with each other. Fitting fenders can be tricky, just like the doors, the adjustments can be almost limit less. Over the years I have seen many untouched vehicles come from the factory with shims, so don’t be afraid to use some. Obviously the fewer the better, but they will serve a purpose. When aligning fenders know that even if you have pre fit you panels before paint it can be the order in which you tightened the bolts that made it fit in the first place. This means that even if you mark all of your shims and bolt locations the order in which you tighten the bolts can affect the alignment. Fenders sometimes have to squeeze and contort to match its adjacent panel so patience is crucial.

I will then move to the hood. The hood will be the tell tale sign of how well everything is fitting. The core support may need shifting. Adjustments up or down, forward and backward, and side to side may be necessary. The adjustments that are necessary may affect how you need to readjust you fenders and doors, with possibly tweaking something here or there.

Once a hood is fit, and the other panels are also in their final position, all bolts need to be rechecked for tightness. During the fitment process things get forgotten, and now is the time to double check your work. Never try and install any trim until all panels are fit and if possible give your weatherstrip a test fit before securing everything into place. Trim and weatherstrip will only get in your way and cause possible problems if installed before all panels are aligned.

One thing to remember to when reinstalling, have patients! Take your time and be careful. Use plenty of tape when putting painted panels in place. Pre-fitting panels before body and paint will help the process of reinstalling painted panels and don’t be surprised if it takes a few more or less shims on the final go round.

Clips and Clamps and Brackets, Oh my!! - Factory Restoration

Justin Benz — Fri, 13 Sep 2013 15:22:00 GMT

What separates your high quality restoration from your run of the mill rebuild is the detail. The details are what can give you those few extra points at the show or just impress the other guys in the club with that detailed restoration. These clips, clamps, and brackets are what will make all the difference when it comes to bringing your classic or muscle car back to show room condition.

One of the difference makers can be the type of fuel line, brake line, or wire loom clips. These clips come in many different forms and can have variations of the same clip on the same car. Many of them can be color coded as to placement on your vehicle, from different shades of blue to a flat or glossy red the factory correct colors will take some research. Luckily many aftermarket companies have done this for us already. Stores like Eckler's or Classic industries offer these fuel and brake line clips in kits that come color coded to factory specs. If this is not the case, and you want to put that added touch to your classic, it’s recommended to get in contact with your local or national car club. The clubs will help you find those resources that you need to make those details pop.

Another Item to consider can be one of the simplest things, hose clamps. Throughout the years there have been many different types of clamps used. They come in many different styles from your standard worm screw hose clamp to a non pinching fuel injection clamp. Having the correct clamp in the correct location will not only ensure you are taking care of these details, but also using the most effective clamp for your application. When just your ordinary worm screw clamp just won’t do, the aftermarket companies may have the solution. For some common vehicles they have kits available, and other vehicles the hose clamps can be purchased individually. A factory correct restoration is never 100% complete without considering these little details.

The correct brackets are one of the other detail items to consider. These can be anything from your accessory brackets on the front of the engine to the small bracket that holds your heater hoses in place. These brackets can be large or small, but the small ones can give you those last few finishing touches you are looking form. In many cases some of the smaller retainers and bracket can get broke or just go missing after years of repairs to be merely replaced by zip ties. Once again these aftermarket companies have done the research to know what you need and what you’re missing. One of the best ways to learn this information is to look at some unfinished and un-restored projects. Even though these cars may not be that show quality award winner, they do often have these little pieces still intact.

When it comes to trying to recreate what the factory did 30, 40, or 50 years ago the aftermarket companies have done a lot of the leg work for us. Discovering and reproducing these detailed parts that make all the difference. Nothing compares to nose to the grindstone research. Within just a few hours of internet research and a few phone calls you may be on track to finding the guidance you need to put your classic car, muscle car, or antique vehicle back to look it had rolling off the lot.

1970 Bronco - Driver Restoration - Delivery Day

Justin Benz — Tue, 27 Aug 2013 18:11:00 GMT

We sent another restoration home on Friday. This 1970 Bronco came in for some mechanical and body repairs along with some touch ups on the interior.

The mechanical repairs included the repairing of some oil leaks and transmission leaks. We also completely overhauled the brakes and suspension. New springs, shocks, control arm bushings, tie rods and a new steering box help this old 4x4 drive like new.

The exterior was fitted with a new Dynacorn hood, door, quarter and quarter extension, and a rocker panel. To go along with the new sheet metal the Bronco was stripped to bare metal; it even had the floors completely sandblasted clean and with some etching, sealing, body work and priming. The classic 4x4 was ready for some paint.

An extra features added to the rear on the Ford was the spare tire carrier. We pieced this kit together with a combination of new aftermarket and original Ford parts.

The interior was kept pretty plain. We added a back seat, center console, some new shifter boots, and new seat covers all the way around keeping the insides appropriately simple. The spray-in bed liner on the floors will help the mud wash right off.

Every time we send a vehicle home it's a good day and seeing this Bronco off to be enjoyed makes everyone here happy and ready for the next.

1966 Chevy C-10 - Restomod Restoration - Project Update

Justin Benz — Mon, 26 Aug 2013 18:04:00 GMT

Our 1966 Chevy C-10 is moving right along. This restomod restoration is making its way through the body department. The floors, cab corners, and rockers have been welded up along with cowl and cowl sides on this truck restoration.

Before we send the body for paint we are getting all of the new sheet metal mocked up. The new Dynacorn fenders fit pretty well. We will need to a few modifications to make them fit. Like, enlarging bolt holes and a little grind and bend to get things to fit the way we want. The hood was acid dipped which removed all of the surface rust without risking warping the panel with the sandblaster.

We have to get this thing right so we bolt up all of the sheet metal including the core support and inner fenders. There is no other way to do this as after market parts are often not 100% correct. Some minor modifications need to be made, and mocking the exterior sheet metal up with the interior structure ensures that everything will fit during final assembly.

During mock up stage is the best time to drill any emblem or molding holes. One of the worst things to do is drill holes is a freshly painted body. You can have a drill bit break, or scratch something trying to get it lined up. Since this truck is getting a body side molding kit from LMC, we drilling our holes and fitting everything before we send it over to the paint department.

After everything has had its final fit and finish we will be prime almost the entire truck one more time. This will allow us to block sand this thing straight to make the slick new paint job pop.

We also took some time to mock up the new Ididit steering column and the power brake booster and master cylinder.

It's old, It's crusty, but it may still run! - Reviving a classic car

Justin Benz — Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:17:00 GMT

Owning a classic car is like any car, it takes regular maintenance to keep it up in tip top shape. But at the same time the engines from the past can be extremely resilient. I've seen engines that have been sitting in a car for 30 years come back to life with just a few minutes of work. Old engines like a Chevy small block V8 or an old Ford straight 6 can be durable enough to get you back on the road even if they've sat around for a long time. These are just a few tips to see if your old lawn ornament or barn fresh beauty will come back to life without investing loads of money and time.

The first step is to make sure everything looks intact. If the vehicle was pushed or driven into the long term resting place and never touched there is a good chance everything is there. Make sure the accessories are in place, pulleys are tight and nothing could get caught up in any moving parts. Same goes for rodent nests or dangling wires.

The next thing to do is a visual electrical inspection. You don’t want to start any fires. As we all know, old cars that have been sitting around can make good homes for little critters. Little critters who like to chew through electrical wires and fuel lines. This is what you want to look for. Nests and feces or any other sign of rodents, but it’s not always the end if you find something. You’re looking for frayed or cut wires from these animals. Chewed up wires are dangerous as they may cause a short in the electrical system. A short can lead to a melt down or possible fire. Not only do you want to look for chewed or frayed wires, look for signs of melted or open connections. Examine the system to look for any potential for bare wires.

During the first two steps, if anything is out of the ordinary or any problems are discovered it is probably not a good idea to keep going. The next few steps involve work that will need to be done in order to see if that old engine will run. So if the engine and accessories aren’t complete or the electrical wires look like the left over’s from a little mouse’s lunch, it's probably not a good idea to proceed.

Moving on. That old car will never start without being able to crank and turn over, a good battery is needed. A fully charged battery should be set into place and the cables hooked up. Even though you have completed a visual electrical inspection, you want to look for a couple things when you do this. First make sure the key is in the off position, next make sure the door is closed and lights are off. As you hook up the battery cables, watch for a significant arc between the cables and battery. A large arc is a sign of a short, do not proceed! If nothing happens, let it set for about 5 minutes or so. Look inside the car and under the hood for signs of white smoke, or the smell of burning rubber or plastic. If you see or smell anything, immediately unhook the battery. If everything looks good do the same with the key in the run position. If there is no smells or smoke, give the key a quick bump to check the starter. If it cranks it’s time to move on. If not, it’s time to call it quits as it could be many different things within the electrical system.

Before you try and start this thing, let's do a couple more things. Go ahead and remove the distributor cap after unhooking the battery cables, Look inside for rust or major corrosion. If it is not falling apart or completely full of calcium build up, give a thorough cleaning with some WD-40. It will clean up the points and electrical connections. With a points distributor, taking a little piece of sand paper to the points will help make that connection it needs to create a spark.

The last thing to check before actually fire this thing is the fuel. Hopefully when it was parked 20 years ago the gas tank was empty. If it is empty add at least 5 gallons. It will ensure the fuel is able to be picked and pumped to the carburetor. If the tank has fuel in it, and it’s easy to drain, drain the fuel and add new. If not, I recommend pouring just an ounce or two directly into the carburetor. This will give the system enough fuel to fire. (If it’s going to).

Let’s go through the check list:

1. Everything looks intact

2. Wiring is not chewed, frayed or cut.

3. No smoke or burning when battery is hooked up

4. Engine cranks after battery is hooked up

5. Cleaned out distributor cap

6. Added fresh fuel

If you’ve gone through these few steps, and the engine is cranking, there’s a good chance you might be up and running. If not that’s ok it could be any number of reasons, it doesn’t mean you need a new engine. These are just a few things you can do that don’t take much time, skill, money, or knowledge. A little hands on experience is great when dealing with old cars, and the more you know about your classic will help to understand what it takes to rebuild and restore it back to show room condition.

1977 Ford F-150 -Driver Restoration - Delivery Day!!!

Justin Benz — Fri, 16 Aug 2013 16:04:00 GMT

It's time for the 1977 Ford F-150 to make it's way back home. After we went though this thing mechanically, include a new brake system, full engine reseal, transmission rebuild, rear end rebuild, new fuel system, new cooling system, and adding aftermarket upgrades like power locks and air conditioning. We had this old truck ready for the road. Since it was running so nice, why not paint it?

The truck was stripped down to bare metal, etched, sealed, body worked, primed, and painted. The exterior included new front and rear bumpers, new weather strip, new grill surround and inserts. All of these parts purchased from LMC.

The interior was very basic, only getting a seat cover from NPD and a new steering wheel.

The old truck drives just as good as it looks and the technicians here have done just a fantastic job with this one. We hope to see this truck on the road for years to come and we are happy to have had the opprotunity to restore the memories for another client.

1966 Ford Mustang - Project update

Justin Benz — Tue, 13 Aug 2013 16:38:00 GMT

We have completed a lot of work since the last update. The body has undergone some serious changes. The shell was completely striped and sand blasted, then etch primed and sealed. From here we are starting to remove the quarter panels. The quarters had been previously patched and we can offer a better repair by replacing the entire quarter.

After stripping a vehicle to this point there are always hidden areas that are hard to see untill it is completely stripped. Although we knew of most of it going in a few areas popped up on us.

Were starting off with replacing the quarters, wheel houses, and truck drops. We'll remove these old panels first, and fit the new sheetmeal all at once. This allows us to see how well our aftermarket parts are fitting. This is the perfect time to modify and and shape the metal rather than after everything is done.