Precision Timepieces

SIHH 2012: Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM00441

2012-01-28T13:39:00.000+08:00

Panerai dual time watches. One of the watches announced by Officine Panerai at SIHH 2012 is the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM 441. The PAM 441 is a dual time watch, made in the distinctive Panerai style.

PAM 441

In most dual time watch, the main hour hand which rotates once every 12-hours is intended to display local time. A second smaller arrow tipped hand which rotates once every 24-hours is used to display the second time zone, normally in conjunction with with a second set of hour markers, like on Panerai's PAM 88 pictured below.

urs,

PAM 88 - 24 secondary hand and 24-hour indicator on the out part of the dial

In the past few year Panerai has stopped using a second set of hour markers and instead have both the main and secondary hand rotate once every 12-hours, and have a day/night indicator used in conjunction with the second hour hand like on the PAM 270.

PAM 270 - 12 hour secondary hand with an AM/PM indicator

In 2009 Panerai released the P. 9001 calibre, which kept both the primary and second hands rotating every 12-hours but without the day/night indicator. This 12-hour hand for a second time zone without a day/night indicator has been subject of much debate. Some feel that the movement displays incomplete information while others say it is a simple matter of remembering whether the second time zone is the day before or day after. We won't try to resolve this issue for you. Either you find the missing feature acceptable or not.

PAM 441

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM 441. The PAM 441 is almost identical to the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic (PAM 320) released in 2009. The main differences between the two is the new PAM 441 has a black ceramic coated steel case, the color of dial and the color of luminescent material on the hour markers and hands. The case back is made of black ceramic coated titanium.

In addition to the to the dual time feature, the P. 9001 calibre also features a longer than usual 3-day power reserve and an indicator at the back of the watch to show the remaining power reserve. The movement beats a 28,800 vibrations per hour.

PAM 441

PAM00438. A version of this watch on a steel bracelet has been around too, as the PAM 438.

PAM 438

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: IWC Pilots Watch Worldtimer Ref. 3262

2012-01-25T21:56:00.000+08:00

Keeping track of the worlds time. I am sure the IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer got its share of attention at SIHH 2012.

The IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer uses a pair of conventional hands to tell local time, and like the other new IWC Pilot's Watches released this year has a date window which displays three date numerals, the middle one being the current date. But what is impossible to ignore is the outer ring with the names of cities located around the globe, and the inner 24-hour ring.

The inner ring which rotates once every 24-hours serves as a the 24 hour hand you find in many dual time watches. It can be set and independently from the main hands.

It works this way. In the image above local time is 10:10. It is 10:10 p.m. in Dubai 6:10 P.M. in London, 12:10 PM in Mexico and 3:10 in the morning in Tokyo.

It's a big watch. IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer has a 45 mm diameter case. Inside is a still unspecified self winding movement with a 42 hour power reserve.

Being a IWC Pilot' Watch is has the soft iron inner ring which helps it resist magnetism and a sapphire crystal glass that resists changes in air pressure.

About IWC. IWC or the the "International Watch Co. Schaffhausen" was founded by an American engineer from Boston, Florentine Ariosto Jones, in Schaffhausen, Switzerland in the year 1868. IWC Schaffhausen is notable for being the only major Swiss watch factory located in eastern Switzerland, as the majority of the well-known Swiss watch manufacturers are located in western Switzerland.

SIHH2012: The Officine Panerai Radiomir 1940 PAM00398 and Radiomir 1940 PAM00399

2012-01-22T14:03:00.003+08:00

Classics. One thing which Office Panerai has done in the past two years in manufacture "classic" watches using materials which it used historically. This year, it released two limited edition Radiomir, the Radiomir 1940 PAM 398 and Radiomir 1940 PAM 399 is the same fashion.

The most notable things about these design are the use of Plexiglass crystals instead of the contemporary sapphire crystal. In keeping with the classic design, both the PAM 398 and the PAM 399 are time only watches, displaying only the hours, minutes and seconds. The movement, in keeping with the theme are hand wound movements,the OPXVII hand-wound mechanical movement. Both watches are 47 mm in diameter.

The only difference between the PAM 398 and PAM 399 is the material used to manufacture the case. The PAM 398 is made of 18 carat gold, with a Red Gold color. The PAM 399 case, is made from stainless steel.


PAM 398

PAM 399

Radiomir 1940 case. The Radiomir we are familiar with, had steel wires welded to the case to attach the watch to the strap. The PAM 398 and PAM 399 present a new Radiomir case, dubbed the Radiomir 1949. The Radiomir 1940 case has solid steel lugs formed out of the same block of steel as the case itself like those found on the Luminor case. This feature makes the PAM 398 and PAM 399 probably the most significant watches released by Officine Panerai this year. I suspect, we will be seeing more Radiomir 1940 watches in the future.

PAM 399 - Back

Limited Edition. The PAM 398 and PAM 399 are of very limited production. Only 100 each will be produced. Of those 50 will be sold as pairs. The Red Gold PAM 398 will be sold with a matching stainless steal PAM 399, in a two watch presentation box.

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: IWC Spitfire Chronograph Ref. 3878

2012-01-19T08:53:00.000+08:00

Spitfire Family. IWC Pilots watch line is divided into three separate families. The classic Pilots watch family, the contemporary Top Gun family, and the Spitfire family which pays tribute to a British World War II fighter plane, the Supermarine Spitfire. The revamp of IWC's Spitfire family of watches sees the loss of the basic date and time watch, the dual time watch and leaves us with two excellent chronograph watches.

IWC Spitfire Chronograph Ref. 3878. Prior to the revamp of the line-up this year IWC manufactured a classic Pilots Chronograph watch and a Spitfire Chronograph watch, which except for the color scheme of the hands, dial and strap were all but identical.

The revised IWC Spitfire Chronograph Ref. 3878 achieves a large degree of differentiation from its cousin the IWC Pilots Watch Chronograph Ref. 3777, and is not a very distinct design.

The new IWC Spitfire Chronograph Ref. 3878 now features a cleaner dial with two, instead of three sub-dials. One sub-dial displays the seconds while the second sub-dial is a sixty minute timer for the chronograph function.

The chronograph now includes the flyback function. The two button set-up features a start/stop and reset/restart button. The flyback function allows you to restart the chronograph in a single click, rather than having to go through the stop - reset - start route. The main second hand is used to measure seconds for the chronograph hand while a smaller seconds hand is used to measure continuous seconds in conjunction with the time function.

Like the new IWC Pilots Watch Mark XVII, the date window now displays three date numerals. The current date is the one located in the middle with a small a red arrow further indicating the actual date.

IWC Spitfire Chronograph Ref. 3878 has also grown a bit bigger it case now measuring 43 mm in diameter versus the previous model which had a 42 mm case diameter.

The case is available in stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold. The stainless steel version is available with a brown leather strap or steel bracelet. The rose gold version is only available with the leather strap.

IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre. Of most interest to the true watch lover is the movement. The previous Spitfire Chronograph used the IWC 79320 calibre which was a IWC modified ETA/Valjoux 7750 movement. The new IWC 89365 calibre is an entirely in-house built movement. This movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a impressive 68 hour power reserve.

While it may not matter to some, having an in-house movement enhances the value of a watch. In this case the flyback function puts the movement a cut above the typical chronograph movement, so you have both something special in terms of funxtion as well as manufacture.

SIHH 2012: Officine Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days PAM00424

2012-01-17T13:37:00.002+08:00

Officine Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days PAM00424. Where do we start with Panerai's 2012 line-up. We already took a quick look at the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days 47mm PAM00422 a few days ago. So lets start with a Radiomir. One of the new watches introduced by Panerai at SIHH 2012 is the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM00424.

The PAM 424 is 47 mm watch built on a Radiomir case with the basic time and date functionality. The 47 mm case is made from stainless steel. A sapphire crystal glass protects the dial. Inside is a Officine Panerai's P.3000 calibre. This is an in-house movement entirely designed by Officine Panerai and manufactured in Neuchâtel facility. The P.3000 calibre has a three day power reserve and produces 21,600 vibrations per hour. It is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

This watch is similar to Officine Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Platino PAM00376 introduced at SIHH 2011 in the sense that both feature the California dial. The PAM 424 differs from the PAM 376 in that the former has a date display and is made from stainless steel. The PAM 376 was a limited production watch with a platinum case.

California Dial. The PAM 424 has the so-called "California Dial" which has a rather odd looking combination of Roman numerals, Arabic numbers and stick and triangle markers on its face. The California Dial was used by some Panerai and Rolex watches manufactured in the 1930's. It should be recalled that back than, Panerai watches used Rolex movements, so a certain degree of sharing in design did occur between the two companies. In the 1980's a company based in California, USA, refurbish the dials of several vintage Rolex watches with the combination Roman numerals and Arabic number dials, and the dial got the name, "California Dial." As near as I can surmise, these dial was the result of Panerai experiments at perfecting the high visibility dial.

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: IWC Mark XVII Pilots Watch Ref. 3265

2012-01-16T22:44:00.002+08:00

SIHH 2012. As part of its revamp of it Pilots Watch family, IWC has released a new version of its iconic pilots watch, in the form of the IWC Mark XVII. The Mark XVII, like it predecessors, is a basic time and date watch with features making it suitable for use on board aircraft.

The history of this watch makes it special. The IWC "Mark" pilots watch began its long history as general purpose military watch. In the early 1940's the British Ministry of Defense put out a specification set for military watches that it wanted to supply its troops. The watches that met these specification were engraved with the letter WWW meaning: "Watches Wristlet Waterproof" and called the "Mark X" watches. IWC was one of the manufacturers that built these "Mark X" watches. These Mark X watches were supplied to the RAF, but again found wanting.

An airborne map painting radar system called "H2S" was established so that aircraft could determine their position by triangulating their position with these beams. H2S proven to be a valuable navigation aid but also caused problems. The map painting radar screen produced magnetic fields, which disturbed the accuracy of the issued wrist watches.

Also as, the altitude of the sorties had steadily increased, causing a problem with low temperature, which also affected the precision of the watches. Cabin pressurization had been introduced towards the end of WW II and a sudden decrease of pressure caused by damage to the aircraft's fuselage, could force the crystal from a watch that still retained normal pressure inside its case. This resulted in a need for a watch that was resistant to sudden changes in pressure.

IWC Mark XVI

To meet these new requirements new specification were issued for a Mark XI watch.

A highly accurate movement with hack-device,
A inner soft iron cage forming a shield to screen the movement against magnetic interference, the dial being an integral part of this soft iron cage,
A stainless steel waterproof case,
A crystal secured by a screwed ring to prevent it detaching from the case during sudden depressurization, and;
A black dial with luminous markers and hands.

To meet these standards, in 1948, the IWC updated its Mark X watch as the Mark 11 (XI) and the general purpose military watch evolved into a dedicated pilots watch.

The new IWC Mark XV

IWC Mark XVII. The Mark XVII continues to meet the requirements for a professional pilots watch featuring a soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields and the front glass which can survive against sudden drops in pressure. Inside is the same caliber 30110 movement which was found in the IWC Mark XVI. The caliber 30110 is actually an ETA 2892 movement, which vibrates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours. The case is water resistant to up to 60 meters.

The new IWC Mark XVII

The changes brought by the Mark XVII are largely cosmetic. First you have the larger 41 mm case diameter. The original Mark X and Mark 11 watches were 36 mm in diameter. The previous model, Mark XVI, was 39 mm in diameter. Other than the increased diameter, the most noticeable change is in the date window which now displays three date numerals. The current date is the one located in the middle with a small a red arrow further indicating the actual date. Other than this, the Mark XVII keep most of the design elements of its predecessor, the Mark XVI, with the aviation inspired hour makers and hands. The matte black dial keeps its great legibility with roman numerals and high contrast white hour markers and hands.

Like the previous model, the Mark XVII is available with a black alligator leather strap and pin buckle or, alternatively, with stainless-steel bracelet. The new bracelet is a redesigned bracelet.

All in all, I think IWC did a good job with the new design. When I show the IWC Mark XVI to friends, they find the design a bit to simple for a luxury watch. The tri-number date display and little red arrow add a panache to the dial, and the new 41 mm size is more in keeping with the times. Me, the IWC Mark XVI is one of my five all time favourite watches, current and vintage, and as beautiful as the Mark XVII is, the Mark XVI will continue to hold a special place in my heart.

SIHH 2012: What to expect from Panerai this year

2012-01-10T17:55:00.001+08:00

Careful evolution. What should you expect from Panerai in 2012? In brief, more of the same, and a bit different at the same time. Officine Panerai already released details on one of the watches it will be showing at SIHH 2012, the Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days 47mm PAM00422.

"According to Panerai, the PAM 422 is inspired by a rare model of the 1940s that represents an intermediate stage in the transformation from the Radiomir to the Luminor case" (Source: Perpetuelle). I do not know about that, but it does look like an evolution of the Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days 47mm PAM00372 from 2011.

Familiar but different.

Plexiglass. Panerai has always linked its designs with its past, but last year this trend started to create a line of more historically authentic watches. Last year the PAM 372 came with a surprising component, a Plexiglas crystal. Plexiglass or acrylic glass used to be common in watchmaking until the 1980's, after which mineral glass and sapphire crystal glass was used instead. The use of Plexiglass is to give the watch a more authentic historical design. Like the PAM 372, the PAM 422 also use a Plexiglass crystal.

The PAM 372 of 2011 came with a new in-house P.3000 hand-wound. The PAM 422 comes with a new in-house P.3001 hand-wound movement. It basically incorporates small seconds, displayed at the 9 o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator on the back and a seconds reset function to the P.3000 movement.

But this is a good way to go. Why mess with success. People do now want to see watch designs morphing every year. The PAM 422 can be clearly identified as a Panerai, even without a label. For a watch design to be a success, I think that it the way it should be.

What I would like to see is Panerai's entry level watches, like the PAM 000 get in-house movement treatment. No, I do not want to see all that many changes too.

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: IWC releases more details on its new Pilot's watches

2012-01-03T22:47:00.001+08:00

IWC Schaffhausen has released details of the new watches it will be showing off at SIHH 2012. Five new TOP GUN models are being released this year.

The flagship of th TOP GUN line is the Miramar, a flyback chronograph watch. A new "classic" TOP GUN watch, with black and white with red highlights, will also be released as well as new Spitfire models. IWC is also releasing a Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN and the Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.

The most popular IWC Pilot's watches, the Big Pilot’s watch and Mark XVI will appear in modified forms. The Mark XVII is 2 millimetres larger, at 41 millimetres, than the older Mark VXI. A new Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph will also be released, in a larger 46mm case diameter. The case of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph has increased by 1 millimetre to 43 millimetres. The new Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer has a 24-hour ring that enables the wearer to look at all 24 time zones, including the Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). A city ring shows the names of 23 places around the globe, each of which represents a time zone.

All in all it looks IWC will be interesting to watch at SIHH 2012. For more details, visit IWC's site at this link.

SIHH 2012: IWC to revamp part of the pilots watch line-up

2012-01-03T01:06:00.001+08:00

Pilot's watches. It is still two weeks before SIHH 2012, but information on whihc line-up IWC will be revamping this year has already been released. In 2009, IWC revamped the entire Aquatimer line-up and in 2010 did an almost complete revamp of their Portuguese line. In 2011 it was the the Portofino line of watches that was updated. For 2012, it is IWC's line of Pilot's watches that will be updated.

One of the watches to be launched at SIHH 2012 by IWC is the Pilot's Watch Top Gun Miramar.

Miramar. Naval Air Station Miramar was the home of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School which was established in 1969. The United States Navy Fighter Weapons School was also informally known as "Top Gun". This is where IWC Top Gun watches get their inspiration.

The United States Navy Fighter Weapons School is no longer located at Naval Air Station Miramar, the program having been merged into the Naval Strike and Air Warfare Center at NAS Fallon, Nevada in 1996.

The watch. For now, what I know is that the new IWC Pilot's Watch Top Gun Miramarhas a large 48mm ceramic case. Inside is an IWC's manufactured calibre 89365 movement, has a flyback chronograph sporting an impressive 168 hour power reserve.

I am not sure if this watch is being released in addition to the Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN (Reference 3799) or as an additional model. Given the popularity of IWC's Pilots watches I do not think we will be seeing a full revamp of the line.

Horological new year

2011-12-13T13:21:00.004+08:00

The new year is fast approaching, and of equal interest to watch lovers is the horological new year. New watches are announced all year round, but most of the significant releases are released either at SIHH or BaselWorld. Some manufacturers only announce their new offering at these events.

After SIHH, in March you will have BaselWorld which will be held from March 8-15, 2012.

SIHH. SIHH or the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2012 will be held on January 16-20, 2011. A.Lange &; Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume &; Mercier, Cartier, Jean Richard, Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren Watch Jewelry Co., Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, and Van Cleef & Arpels will be showing their latest releases during the four day show.

The SIHH is held in Geneva. If you are planning to drop by, be warned, the SIHH is a private event for professionals who have been invited by the exhibiting brands.

During the SIHH, this blog focuses on releases by IWC, Panerai, and Vacheron Constantin.

In 2009, IWC revamped the entire Aquatimer line-up and in 2010 did an almost complete revamp of their Portuguese line and in 2011 the Portofino line of watches. So for 2012, we expect IWC to revamp it Ingenieur or Pilots watches lineup. We are betting it is the Ingenieur line that gets the attention this year.

As for Paneria, it will be interesting to see how many more interesting variations they can come out with for their Luminor, 1950 and Radiomir case designs.

Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Traditionelle 14-Days Tourbillon

Vacheron Constantin has already given us an idea of what to expect. As one of the top two premier complication watch designers something spectacular. At SIHH 2012, we will see Vacheron Constantin's new Patrimony Traditionelle 14-Days Tourbillon. The 14 day power reserve of the new Patrimony Traditionelle 14-Days Tourbillon being another feather on its cap.

IWC honors master watchmaker Hansruedi "Fitti" Fischer

2011-12-07T18:29:00.001+08:00

Last week IWC honored Hansruedi "Fitti" Fischer, a watchmaker who has been in the service of IWC for 47 years. A master watch maker, Fitti is a legend in IWC, and one of the few that are able to assemble the Tourbillon.

When asked what piece of advice he would like to give young watchmakers for their way in the future, Fitti said: “Stand out, but only through your good performance.” IWC awarded Fitti his very own Tourbillon by CEO Georges Kern.

In these days of microchips and mass production, what makes mechanical watches appealing is their craftsmanship. In a sense they are jewellery, and many in fact are made with precious metals and diamonds. But in the end their true value is the intricacy of the mechanism and the fit and finish of the product.

People like Fitto remind us that these devices are still hand-crafted. In a mass produced world, the finely made mechanical watch is true work of art.

New for 2011 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine small model

2011-11-21T19:39:00.001+08:00

Anachronism. In the age of the microchip, digital and quartz technology, the mechanical watch is a anachronism. Mechanical movements should be obsolete technology, but it remains the standard for a luxury watch. In an odd sense, with the new trend towards energy conservation, these gravity and spring powered devices are more in keeping with current trends. Mechanical movements are most likely the first form of green technology.

There was a time when the smallest slimmest watch was the most prestigious timepiece, but today the trend is for bigger bulkier watches. The classic watch design is still very much alive, and Vacheron Constantin's new Patrimony Contemporaine is a current expression of early 20th century watchmaking. It design, harks back to the days of the very first wrist watches with a slim 6.7 mm profile.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine small model. The new Patrimony Contemporaine is designed designed with the feminine gender in mind. The watch has a 36 mm case with the rim accentuated by 40 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Inside, it has a classic hand-wound Calibre 1400 movement which beats a 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 40 hour power reserve. The movement bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

While having to wind a watch may seem like a chore, there is something very personal about winding a watch each morning.

The watch is available in 18-carat white or pink gold with a matching leather strap.

About Vacheron Constantin. Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva, Switzerland in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron. This makes it the oldest watch manufacturer in the world with an uninterrupted history.

IWC launches its official blog

2011-11-11T00:13:00.001+08:00

IWC Schaffhausen has launch its official blog, the IWC WATCH INTERNATIONAL BLOG. You can visit IWC's blog at this link.

Welcome to the blogoshere IWC.

Despite tough economic times, the Swiss Watch industry is still healthy

2011-11-08T15:08:00.001+08:00

The financial crisis which hit the United States and later Europe in the third quarter of 2008 continuous. At the same time the Swiss Franc has increased in value as against almost all major currencies. The result, higher Swiss watch prices.

Looking at recently released Rolex watches, the effects of the rise in the Swiss Franc and Rolex's own pricing policy can be seen.

Milgauss 116400 GV (Release Date 2007)

MSRP - US$6,575 in 2007

MSRP - US$7,150 today

Sea Dweller DEEPSEA (Release Date 2008)

MSRP - US$8,975 in 2008

MSRP - US$10,650 today

Bi-metal 41mm Oyster Perpetual Datejust II (Ref. 116233)(Release Date 2009)

MSRP - US$9,525 in 2009

MSRP - US$10,800 today

Stainless Steel Submariner 116610LN (Release Date 2010)

MSRP - US$7,250 in 2010

MSRP - US$8,000 today

From new Rolex watch released the past four years, beginning the year before the financial crisis, you have seen price increases of 9% to 19%. Even the new Rolex Submariner saw a 10% increase in the year that it is been on the market. The figures above are based on the manufacturers suggested retail price and do not take into account discounts.

The increased prices are across the industry. Patek Philippe's Calatrava Ref. 5196G which carried a retail price of US$25,600 in May 2010, is now priced at US$27,600. IWC's Mark VXI (on a leather strap) which had a suggested retail price of US$3,200 in May 2010, went up to US$3,500 at the start of this year and is now apparently carries as suggested retail price of US$4,100 based on my visit to the local A.D. two days ago (I need to confirm this, being a rather large jump in price).

Instead of seeing watch prices drop because of lack of demand due to the the difficult economic times, you see the reverse. The reason is, there is no lack of demand. Despite the tough economic times, the Wall Street Journal reports that, year on year Swiss Luxury Watch exports increased by 24.1% from August 2009 to August 2010. The figures as of August 2011 shows a slowing but still healthy 14.5% increase in exports. The market is expected to soften next year, mainly because of slowing economic growth in the US, Europe and Asia, to a bit below 10%.

Blancpain X Fathoms

2011-11-06T01:43:00.000+08:00

Four the past four years, Blancpain has been developing a very interesting and unique divers watch. Blancpain's new creation has been named the X Fathoms, and what makes this watch special is that is the world’s first diver’s watch to feature a mechanical depth gauge. The depth gauge is reportedly accurate to within 30 centimeters down to a depth of 90 meters.

From pictures provided by Blancpain, the depth is displayed in separate scales on the dial. There appears to be a 0-90 meter scale and a 0-15 meter scale. On the 0-15 meter scale, the 3–6 meter markers are highlighted in a different color, the 3-6 meter intervals being needed to measure when to make the decompression stops on the way back to the surface. To aid in timing the decompression stops, there is a 5 minute countdown timer at the 10-11 o'clock section of the watch. A separate on the 0-90 meter scale indicates maximum diving depth that the watch has ever achieved.

It is still several months till we are to see the final production version of this watch, the X Fathoms will not be presented until BaselWorld 2012.

Special significance of the divers watch to Blacnpain. The divers watch has a special significance to Blancpain. In 1952, two French naval officers, Commander Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud were instructed by the French Ministry of Defense to set up an elite unit called "Les Nageurs de combat." This was a special operations unit of the French Navy, specializing in underwater operations.

After surveying the watches in the market, Commander Maloubier and Lieutenant Riffaud found no diver's watch that could meet their specifications. The two officers contacted Blancpain Rayville SA, in Villeret, Switzerland, and together they created the the Fifty Fathoms. Its name refers to its water-resistance, guaranteed to a depth of 91.45 meters or fifty fathoms.

About Blancpain. Blancpain is a Swiss watch manufacturer, founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jaques Blancpain. The influx of inexpensive quartz watches from Japan and China during the early 1970s put the company on the brink of bankruptcy. It was only thanks to the intervention of Jean-Claude Biver, an Omega executive with a love of fine timepieces, that the company was reborn in 1983. Blancpain is now owned by the Swatch Group. Blancpain produces fewer than 10,000 watches a year, with each watch is made by a single watchmaker.

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012”

2011-10-30T13:22:00.002+08:00

From Alicante to Galway. Six teams are participating in the Volvo Ocean Race 2011-12. Commencing from Alicante, Spain and ending in Galway, Ireland. Six boats will participate in an eight months race around the world composed of the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing, CAMPER with Emirates Team New Zealand, Groupama sailing Team, PUMA Ocean Racing powered by BERG, Team Sanya and Team Telefónica.

The race traces a 39,000 nautical mile route from Alicante, Spain and the route will go to Cape Town, Abu Dhabi, Sanya, Auckland and on to Itajaí, Miami and then across the Atlantic to Lisbon followed by Lorient and Galway.

To coincide with the official start of the Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012, IWC Schaffhausenhas released a special edition: the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012”. This race makes history for IWC as it is the Official Timekeeper for the races and Official Sponsor of one of the participating teams, the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team.

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012". The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012” from IWC Schaffhausen is a elegant sports watch made of titanium built with the degree of precision found in nautical instruments.

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012” is a mechanical watch with a chronograph movement. It is a large watch with a diameter of 45.4 mm and a height of 14.5 mm. The case is made of titanium which keeps the wight down and has good resistance to corrosion true to its character as a professional yacht racing tool. The case is water resistant to 60 meters.

Inside is the self-winding IWC-manufactured 89361-calibre which beats at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This movement has hour and minute counters combined in a single totaliser at the 12 o’clock. The movement also features small hacking seconds and a flyback function. At the 3 o'clock the watch displays the date display. The movement is visible from the back through a transparent sapphire-glass back. The sapphire-glass back provides a clear view of IWC’s double-pawl winding, while the engraving “Edition Volvo Ocean Race 2011–2012” leaves no doubt as to whom this masterpiece is dedicated.

The dial of the watch is carbon-black protected by the expected sapphire crystal glass.. The case is mounted on black rubber strap with a folding clasp made of stainless steel.

Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team. IWC Schaffhausen is the Official Sponsor of the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team. The team, owned by Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority, is the first ever Arabian challenger and is sailing under skipper and two-time Olympic silver medal winner Ian Walker of Great Britain. Among the top international sailors who make up the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team are also two UAE nationals, 22-year-old Olympic sailor Adil Khalid and 27-year-old Butti Al Muhairi, who triumphed over more than 120 other hopefuls in a tough competition to earn their places on the team.

For Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen, sponsorship of this high-calibre team also heralds a new era, as IWC makes its debut in Team Sports.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 bk pictures

2011-10-16T01:10:00.003+08:00

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

should be made without permission from the source.

JK Watchstore, who graciously allows us to use their pictures in this blog has the new Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 bk on stock. The new Explorer II was announced at BaselWorld 2011. This is the first Rolex watch to feature the new larger 42mm case.

One this I was not too fond of was the new Maxi dial that Rolex has become the standard for all updated Rolex watches, which features large hour markers nad hands. While undeniably more functional, I felt that they looked to big for the dial. But the Maxi dial, for me looks perfect on the new larger dial on the 42mm case.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

should be made without permission from the source.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

should be made without permission from the source.

The 24-hour hand which can be used to measure a second time zone is in orange, pays homes with the original Explorer II released in the 1970's.

I think one thing many will appreciate is the new clasp. Not that there was anything functionally wrong with the old one. It just did not seem like it belong to such an expensive watch.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

should be made without permission from the source.

The previous model Rolex Explorer II was always a slow mover in the Rolex line-up, always sold at a fairly large discount. I do not think the same faith awaits the new one. Well at least not until the other professional series Rolex watches migrate to the larger 42 mm case.

Hope you enjoyed the pictures.

About Rolex. Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches and accessories founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing over 2000 watches per day. Rolex is the best known and most sought after watch brand in the world.

Rolex Yatch-Master II Ref. 116681 pricing

2011-10-09T17:02:00.000+08:00

The new bi-metal Rolex Yacht-Master II which Rolex displayed at BaselWorld 2011 are being delivered to your local Authorized Distributer. The 40mm complication watch with a 10 minute countdown timer for Regatta races is now being sold with a list price of US$25,150.

The Yacht-Master II has a very interesting mechanism we wrote about in detail in an earlier article which can be found at this link.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116515 pricing

2011-10-03T00:25:00.002+08:00

The new Rolex Daytona's with the Cerachrom monobloc bezel which Rolex displayed at BaselWorld 2011 are being delivered to your local Authorized Distributer as you read this. The 40mm chronograph watch in a everose gold case and on a black leather strap is available with either a chocolate brown or a ivory dial. The chocolate brown version looks much better to me. A popular online retailer is now offering the watch US$28,400 for either the black or white dialed version.

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has a very interesting history which we wrote about in a previous article which can be found at this link.

Size comparison between the new 42 mm Rolex Explorer II and a 40mm Rolex GMT Master II

2011-09-25T22:02:00.001+08:00

Two millimeters is not much, but a two millimeter difference in size makes a big difference in the size of a watch. MortgageGuy posted comparison pictures between the new 42 mm Rolex Explorer II and a 40mm Rolex GMT Master II. I was a bit surprised about how more massive the new Explorer II looked overall. To view the pictures follow this link.

Omega Planet Ocean video advertisment

2011-09-08T17:48:00.001+08:00

Omega has released a video of its current line-up of Planet Ocean divers watches.

About Omega SA. The forerunner of Omega was founded 1848, by Louis Brandt. The name Omega was first used in 1894. It was used as the name of one of the Louis Brandt brother’s watch movement calibers.

IWC reaches for the stars - IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Ref. 5041

2011-08-28T21:58:00.002+08:00

IWC Release. "Paranal, Chile, 27 August 2011 – Today, in the middle of the Atacama Desert in Chile, IWC Schaffhausen presented a technological masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie to journalists from all over the world.

After ten years of intensive research, the Swiss watch manufacturer has succeeded in uniting solar time with sidereal time, together with astronomical displays, in a single watch. The result is a fascinating universal work of art which comes with a wealth of surprising complications and new technical features. The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is the most complex timepiece ever created by IWC."

Measure of time. We measure time time is based on the length of the average solar day; but for observation of the stars, the factor that counts is the sidereal day, from the Latin sidus, for star. The two types of day, however, differ in length. The average solar day lasts exactly 24 hours and measures the average time between the sun’s passage over a given meridian. The reference for a sidereal day is an infinitely distant star, which is exactly perpendicular to the observation point at the beginning and the end of the period during which it is observed. It therefore measures the time taken for the earth to complete a rotation around its own axis. And because the earth not only turns around its own axis but also describes an arc around the sun, a sidereal day is about four minutes shorter than an average solar day.

IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Ref. 5041. In order to measure both solar and sideral time, the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia has a 24-hour display located at the 12 o’clock position of the dial with its own hour and minute hands. Conventional time is displayed by the large hour and minute hands. To ensure accurate timekeeping a tourbillon movement is used, with the highly complicated mechanism being displayed on the dial of the watch. Continuous seconds are shown by a tourbillon mounted on a ball bearing at the 9 o’clock position.

The IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is powered by a hand-wound IWC built 94900 calibre featuring a constant power mechanism, which compensates for the continuous depletion of energy in the barrels and transmits a steady trickle of energy to the balance. The watch has a four-day power reserve, beating 18,000 vibrations per hour.

Celestial chart. On the back of the watch features a celestial chart and perpetual calendar. The calendar is shown in the form of a circular cut-out and counts the days of the year continuously: the 1st of January is day 1, the 31st of December day 365; or, in the case of a leap year – indicated by the letters LY, number 366. This is joined, on the edge of the case back, by a further display that shows the current time of day, the sidereal time as well as sunrise and sunset with arrows in a 24-hour rhythm. At the centre, is the night sky, with the horizon, engraved in yellow.

Case. The IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is a large watch with a 46mm case17.5mm tall. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. Consistent with its elegant character, the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is supplied on a black leather strap with a folding clasp.

This is truly a fine creation by IWC.

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Boutique Exclusive

2011-08-18T20:19:00.001+08:00

IWC released a rather limited edition watch, the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition watch. The watch is limited in the number of pieces to be manufactures, which is limited to 250 pieces. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition watch is also limited in distribution to be sold exclusively the IWC Boutiques in Los Angeles and Las Vegas.

The the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition watch is visually impressive in several ways. It is a massive watch, with a 46.2 mm case diameter and a height of 15.8 millimeters. A large black dial is contrasted by orange hands and indices. Behind the orange hands are four sub-dials and a window, which results in a complicated dial which would visually indicate that the watch has special features.

Mechanically, the watch is equally impressive. The IWC manufactured 51614 caliber movement that powers this watch has a seven day power reserve, with the remaining time displayed at the the dial at the 3 o'clock.

The watch is also complication watch boasting a mechanical perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display and a moon phase display showing the moon in both hemispheres, which information is displayed in through four sub-dials and a window.

Perpetual Calendar. Many watches display the date on their dial. But since some months have only thirty, twenty-nine of twenty-eight days, you need to adjust the date at least five time per year. A perpetual calendar is a mechanism that automatically takes into account the varying number of days in each month as well as leap years so that the watch displays the correct date each month without the need of adjustment. A perpetual calendar watch will not need correction for more then a century.

Big Pilot History. In the early days of aviation, watches were use watches as navigation tools. Determining speed and time would allow them to determine distance. The first commercial wrist watches were actually designed for aviators.

The Luftwaffe, the German Air Force, commissioned IWC to build large 55mm watches to be use by it air crews. In 1939 released the IWC Large 52 S.C. Calibre Pilot's Watch. About 1200 0f these watches were built.

These large watches, with their larger dials and luminescent hands and markers were designed to provide maximum readability, and as they were worn outside thick flight suits, the 55 mm girth was not too large. Today IWC still manufactures a similar watch, the IWC Big Pilot's Watch, although now in a smaller 46 mm diameter given that the watch will be worn on the bare wrist of a owner, and not over a flight suit.

Suunto Vector - Modern Mountain Sports watch

2011-08-16T22:16:00.000+08:00

About Suunto. Despite advances in technology, digital watches are no longer favored today from a fashion standpoint, but they have found a niche market as sports and adventure watches. One of the companies that manufactures digital watches for modern watches is Suunto Oy, based in Finland, Suunto produces and markets sports precision instruments for diving, training and and other outdoor sports. Suunto is a subsidiary of Amer Sports Corporation with sister brands Wilson, Atomic, Salomon, Precor, Arc’teryx and Mavic.

Suunto Vector HR. The Suunto Vector HR is designed for trekking and mountain climbing featuring an altimeter, barometer, electronic compass, and heart rate monitor to give you the information you need to make responsible decisions during outdoor activities. Accessing these features is easy. Pressing the button at the 3 o'clock will toggle the display between time, altimeter, barometer and compass.

The heart rate monitor zone can be set to alarm when your heart rate is climbing at an alarming rate. The altimeter features a range up to 9,000 m / 29,500 ft, making it useful in all 14 of the world's 8,000+ meter summits. In addition to measuring height it measures your vertical speed, and works in conjunction with heart rate monitor so you can see the physiological impact of both altitude and vertical rate of movement. You can set altitude alarms to remind you when you’re reaching another limit. An automatic 24-hour memory stores the altitude and ascent/descent rate for every hour, and lets you record other intervals. With the logbook, you can see and compare all of your ups and downs as it records your total and cumulative vertical ascents and descents.

The Suunto Vector HR displays real-time barometric pressure and temperature, giving you information on weather conditions. It stores the past four days’ barometric data, which is recorded automatically.

The digital compass guides you with cardinal or half-cardinal points and a north-south arrow. You can set the compass to track a bearing of your choosing, and your Suunto Vector HR helps you get around in unknown terrain. A declination adjustment function allows you to correct the difference between true north and magnetic north for a more accurate reading.

In addition the Suunto Vector HR displays the current time in 12- or 24-hour format, allows you to set three daily alarms, a calendar and a chronograph with a split-time stopwatch, countdown timer, and interval timer functions.

It's not a very pretty watch, but it is not meant to be. It is an excellent example of a modern day tool watch.

The big watch "fad", is here to stay

2011-08-10T12:29:00.001+08:00

After more than a decade, I think it is fair to say that the big watch "fad", is here to stay. Omega's Seamaster's have grown up to Planet Oceans. Rolex has several watches now, the Yatchmaster, the Sea-Dweller, the Datejust, the Day-Date and the Explorer II all in cases larger than 40mm's. The other watch brands have offerings with bigger cases too.

The 44mm case of the Panerai Luminor is not all that big by today's standards.

While the trend to large watches is largely credited to Officine Panerai, the trend toward for larger watches has actually been going on for some time. Officine Panerai did redefine what we consider to be large.

The trend to large watches has been derided in forums as a fad. In the first half of the 20th century, of the smaller watches, meant having to have smaller more intricate mechanism, which meant that they were harder to make and were more expensive. Top watchmakers today still take pride in how intricate a mechanism they can place in a small slim case. Still things like Patek Phillipe's 36mm Ref. 3940 Perpetual Calendar watch was replaced by the 37mm Ref. 5140, not for any mechanical reasons. But from a practical standpoint, wearing the biggest watch that your wrist can bear makes much more practical sense. A larger watch has a bigger dial, hands and markers making it easier to read time. It can have a thicker stronger case. For mechanical watches, a larger case can house a large movement, which means it can be made more robust and can be given a longer power reserve. For chronographs and watches with pushers or "buttons", it means easier to access controls.

What is large today, has obtained a different definition from a decade ago. Officine Panerai's 44mm Luminor is still a large watch, but today you will even find watches which are upwards of 50mm's. These large watches are nothing new. The original Officine Panerai divers watches had 47mm cases. In 1939 the Luftwaffe, the German Air Force, commissioned IWC to build large 55mm watches to be use by it air crews, the IWC Large 52 S.C. Calibre Pilot's Watch.

These new larger watches are not for everyone. Women can wear an "oversized watch", one too large for their wrist without looking odd. For men, it is still best to wear what fits your wrist, although today, that would be the largest size the fits your wrist.

Despite excellent features, Rolex Explorer II has always been a slow mover on the Rolex line-up. Rolex is hoping the larger 42mm case changes this.

I do not see a return to the classic sizes. It is not like wristwatches have been around all that long. The very first commercially available wristwatches, the Cartier Santos-Dumont, were made one hundred years ago in 1911. As technology makes it easier to make things small, smaller slim watches wont have the same sense exclusivity that they used too. I do not see extremely large 50mm+ watches staying around for too long.

I think what we will see it "right-sizing", people wearing what fits best on their wrist, which is not such a bad proposition overall.