We completed this lake-front, sloped landscape design last year and just wanted to share an updated picture as the plants have matured. Here are some before and immediate after installation photos:

Here is a photo from this spring with the matured plants in bloom:

Here is a picture our customer gave us of the fireplace, patio, and seating wall they wanted in their yard:

Here are some progress and After photos of the Fireplace & Patio we constructed for them, based on the above picture:

As larger houses occupy ever-smaller lots and the demand for outdoor living areas grows, privacy is at a premium. And it’s not just about prying eyes invading your space—you may want to shield your own view of your sunbathing neighbors and block out their chatter. There are myriad ways to add privacy in the landscape, from putting in perimeter plantings to building fences, stone walls, or garden structures.

1. Non-Traditional Fencing: You may choose to go with traditional pressure-treated or Cedar privacy fencing or you may choose a non-traditional route like staggering wooden boards that are stained in soft shades of black, yellow, green, and red. Whether it is a typical style or a one-of-a-kind fence, you can also soften them with shrubs in front and tree canopies overhead.
2. Privacy Plantings: Property-line plantings can provide year-round screening and are typically not restricted by municipal ordinances limiting their height. Where space is tight, as in a side yard, fast-growing columnar evergreens like Green Giant Arborvitae or a sheared privet hedge can provide a simple solution for separating adjoining yards or blocking sight lines out a kitchen window.
3. Layered Privacy Plantings: In larger yards, planting a mix of deciduous or evergreen trees, shrubs, and perennials creates a more naturalistic look, especially if you layer plants, grouping them in odd numbers. Stagger evergreens in the background, and in the foreground step down the height with deciduous material to provide texture, depth, and color.
4. Container Gardens for Deck Privacy: Potted plants such as arborvitae or clumping bamboo can be positioned to create a green screen around a raised deck seating area. Ideally, pots should be raised up on casters or made of lightweight materials so you can easily move them for parties or deck repairs.
5. Fences & Walls: Newly installed pools, patios, and playgrounds may require a visual buffer in a hurry. A 6-foot solid board fence is the quickest way to add year-round screening—just be sure to check local building codes regarding fence heights (and any other restrictions). It may also be the best solution in a side yard, where space is tight, since fences have a smaller footprint than plantings. Board fences come in various styles to complement the architecture of your home, and you can stain them to match the house.
6. Stone Wall Topped with Fencing: Another option is to mount a shorter, 3- or 4-foot lattice or picket fence on top of a 2- or 3-foot stone wall. The wall, from a distance, is high enough to disrupt sight lines, while the openwork fence screens without feeling claustrophobic.
7. Masonry Walls with Ornamental Ironwork: Similarly, a masonry wall of stone or stucco that rises 5- or 6-feet-high feels less oppressive when windows are cut into it; often, ornamental ironwork can decorate such openings.
8. Panels and Pergolas: Defined areas like small patios, outdoor kitchens, and decks are generally easier to screen than a whole yard. By building an enclosure around them, you can re-create the intimate feeling of eating or entertaining indoors, while still enjoying beautiful weather.
9. Lattice, Wood Panels, and Ornamental Ironwork: Screens made from lattice, shutterlike louvered wood panels, or sections of ornamental iron with anchoring posts can be set into the ground to enclose a cozy corner or make a U-shaped structure that preserves desirable views. For maximum flexibility, consider placing the post ends in lightweight planters with wheels; to anchor them, add concrete plugs to the feet or set the posts in gravel. That way, they can be moved around to create more open space when you’re entertaining.
10. Using Fountains to Mask Noise: Even if you’re not literally seeing eye to eye with the neighbors, you might still be close enough to hear their conversation. Or you may be bothered by intrusive traffic noise or buzzing AC compressors. In such cases, adding a fountain to your privacy plan can mask unwanted sounds with pleasant white noise. These range from off-the-shelf, plug-in units that sit on a table or hang on the wall to custom designs that become a major focal point.

Reference: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20190209,00.html?base_url=http://comments.thisoldhouse.com&brand_name=ThisOldHouse&section_name=planning-landscaping&board_resource_id=20190209_20437061&board_name=10%20Ways%20to%20Add%20Privacy%20to%20Your%20Yard&board_url=http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20190209_20437061,00.html&order=ASC&expand_all=true&use_comments=true&page=2&per_page=10

We are completing a European-inspired landscape installation at a home in Alexandria. We will be posting periodic updates as the project progresses.

Here are some pictures from the lawn installation and the gravel walkway nearly complete:

Choose the top hydrangeas for your garden:

A Hydrangea for Sun: While most hydrangeas do best in shade, varieties of Hydrangea paniculata prefer sunny spots. Most selections have large clusters of white flowers in summer. The showy blooms fade to shades of pink or red before drying to beige. In many areas, they dry right on the plant in fall and stay looking good through most of the winter.

• Growing it: While Hydrangea paniculata likes full sun, it also does well in part shade. It prefers moist, well-drained soil rich in organic matter, so it’s helpful to amend your soil with compost, peat moss, or other similar materials before you plant it. Hydrangea paniculata is one of the hardiest varieties; it thrives in Zones 4-8.
• Pruning it: Because this hydrangea blooms on current year’s growth, the best time to give it a trim is winter or early spring.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’ is sometimes called peegee hydrangea. It’s a large shrub or small tree to 20 feet tall.
  2. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ bears light lime-green flowers from midsummer to fall. It grows 8 feet tall.

An Easy-Care Hydrangea: Majestic oakleaf hydrangea is one of the easiest types to grow. It’s also one of the showiest thanks to its big clusters of white summertime flowers, attractive peeling bark, and textured foliage that turns brilliant shades of purple-red in fall. Oakleaf hydrangea can be a big shrub (it grows 8 feet tall) that’s great for providing summertime privacy or as a backdrop in the shade garden. Like smooth hydrangea, it’s native to areas of North America.

• Growing it: Give oakleaf hydrangea a spot in shade or partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. It stands up to dry soil a bit better than most other types, but still appreciates moisture during drought. Like any other hydrangea, it will perform best if there’s a lot of organic matter in the soil. Oakleaf hydrangea is hardy in Zones 5-9.
• Pruning it: Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on last year’s branches, so the best time to prune them is right after the flowers fade in late summer. Because the bark is interesting as it matures, many gardeners do not prune their oakleaf types.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Alice’ offers extra-large blooms and more spectacular fall color. It grows 10 feet tall.
  2. Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Little Honey’ shows golden-yellow foliage and clusters of white summertime flowers. It grows 4 feet tall.
  3. Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snowflake’ bears clusters of double white flowers. It grows 8 feet tall.
  4. Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Vaughn’s Lillie’ displays spectacularly dense clusters of white flowers. It grows 4 feet tall.

Hydrangeas for Season-Long Color: It used to be that the beautiful blue- and pink-blooming hydrangeas would bloom once a year, usually in June. But plant breeders have been hard at work, and their efforts are paying off in a new type of hydrangea: rebloomers. Series such as Endless Summer and Let’s Dance offer big, colorful blooms every few weeks in summer and fall. Many of these varieties offer beautiful fall color.

• Growing them: Reblooming hydrangeas do best in a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Like other hydrangeas, they prefer moist, well-drained soil that has a lot of organic matter in it. The plants aren’t very drought tolerant, so you’ll probably need to water them during dry spells.
• Pruning them: Rebloomers produce blossoms on both last year’s branches and this year’s stems, so you can prune them at any time without significantly affecting their flowering cycle. Many gardeners find the plants grow and bloom best if they only cut off parts of branches that died over winter.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer bears mophead clusters of pink or blue flowers. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 4-9
  2. Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer Blushing Bride bears white flowers flushed with light pink. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  3. Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer Twist-n-Shout bears blue or pink lacecap-type flowers. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 4-9
  4. Hydrangea macrophylla Let’s Dance Moonlight bears rich blue or pink mophead-type flowers. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  5. Hydrangea macrophylla Let’s Dance Starlight bears rich blue or pink lacecap-type flowers. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  6. Hydrangea macrophylla Mini Penny bears blue or pink mophead-type flowers. It grows 4 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  7. Hydrangea macrophylla Penny Mac bears blue or pink mophead-type flowers. It grows 6 feet tall. Zones 5-9

Hydrangea for Shade – Mophead: Mophead-type hydrangeas — the ones with the big, puffy balls of flowers — lend a grace and old-fashioned elegance to the garden. They’re beautiful cut flowers and dry well, too. Many offer outstanding fall color, to boot. Most mopheads bloom in June and July on last year’s branches. This makes the plants susceptible to winter damage (the flower buds freeze and die). Late-spring frosts can also kill buds before they open.

• Growing them: Mophead hydrangeas typically thrive in morning sun and afternoon shade. They prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s full of organic matter. Keep them looking good by watering them during periods of drought. Otherwise the leaves may turn brown and crispy.
• Pruning them: Because these hydrangeas bloom only once a year, the best time to prune them is right after they finish flowering. By late summer they’ve already started making next year’s blooms.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea macrophylla Big Daddy produces huge clusters of blue or pink flowers. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 6-9
  2. Hydrangea macrophylla Buttons ‘n’ Bows bears clusters of pink or lavender-blue flowers edged in white. It grows 4 feet tall. Zones 6-9
  3. Hydrangea macrophylla Cityline Venice displays clusters of bright pink or lavender-blue flowers on strong stems. It grows 4 feet tall. Zones 6-9
  4. Hydrangea macrophylla Color Fantasy shows clusters of rich red flowers over shiny, dark green foliage. It grows 3 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  5. Hydrangea macrophylla Forever Pink offers clusters of rich pink or lavender-blue flowers. It grows 3 feet tall. Zones 6-9
  6. Hydrangea macrophylla Lemon Daddy has golden-yellow foliage and clusters of blue or pink flowers. It grows 4 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  7. Hydrangea macrophylla Nikko Blue offers clusters of rich blue or pink flowers. It grows 6 feet tall. Zones 6-9

Hydrangea for Shade – Lacecap: These beautiful hydrangeas have a more refined appearance — they have a cluster of tiny blooms ringed by starry, bigger ones. Like mopheads, they bear flowers on last year’s branches and are also good picks for adding fall color to the garden.

• Growing them: Lacecap hydrangeas prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. They like moist, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Water them during dry spells to keep them looking good, otherwise their leaves may turn dry and brown.
• Pruning them: Traditional lacecap varieties bloom only once a year, so prune them right after they finish flowering in summer. By late summer they’ve already started making next year’s blooms.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea macrophylla Bits of Lace produces pale pink flowers on a 5-foot-tall shrub. Zones 6-9
  2. Hydrangea macrophylla Lady in Red offers red flowers, burgundy stems, and beautiful purple-red fall color. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 5-9
  3. Hydrangea macrophylla Lanarth White bears white flowers on a compact, 3-foot-tall shrub. Zones 6-9
  4. Hydrangea macrophylla Lemon Wave offers foliage boldly edged in cream, white, and yellow. The blooms are light blue or pink. It grows 6 feet tall. Zones 6-9
  5. Hydrangea macrophylla Mariesii displays pink or blue flowers over white-edged leaves. It grows 5 feet tall. Zones 6-9

A Climbing Hydrangea: The most majestic member of the clan, climbing hydrangea is a slow-growing vine that matures at about 50 feet. In summer, it bears lacecap-like clusters of white flowers over its rich green foliage.

• Growing it: Give climbing hydrangea a spot in part to full shade and a sturdy support to climb on. This vine is great at scaling walls and other structures because roots grow from the stems and cling to a surface. Be sure to give climbing hydrangea moist, well-drained soil that has a high organic matter content.
• Pruning it: This hydrangea typically doesn’t need pruning. Remove wayward shoots any time between winter and midsummer.
• Standout Varieties:
  1. Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Firefly’ bears green leaves edged in gold and clusters of white flowers. Zones 4-8
  2. Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Kuga Variegated’ displays green leaves stippled in cream and gold. Zones 5-7
  3. Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Skylands Giant’ bears extra large flower clusters. Zones 4-8

Reference: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/trees-shrubs-vines/shrubs/best-hydrangeas/?sssdmh=dm17.591157&esrc=nwwu041012c&email=2520655878

We have completed a pool deck renovation/extension at a home in Chantilly, which included an appx. 1,000 SF paver patio extension with border and a masonry wall, planting four Nellie Stevens Hollies, one Autumnalis Cherry, building a composite bench, putting in a lattice screen for the pool equipment, and installing landscape lights.

Here is the blueprint showing the work that was to be done, but note that we did not end up installing all of the plants on this design:

Here are some progress photos of the paver deck going in, the masonry wall complete, and the bed for the trees prepped:

Here are some progress photos of most of the work being completed:

Check back soon to see the final After photos with the landscape lighting on, the trellis finished, and all of the final sod/finish work complete!

We are completing a European-inspired landscape installation at a home in Alexandria. We will be posting periodic updates as the project progresses.

Here is the front yard portion of the blueprint showing the rows of Green Giant Arborvitaes that were planted as a living screen:

Here are the Green Giant Arborvitaes before being installed:

Here is a Before/Progress photo of the front yard before the Green Giant Arborvitaes were installed:

Here are After photos of the front yard after the Green Giant Arborvitaes were installed:

Check back periodically for updates on the progress!

We are completing a European-inspired landscape installation at a home in Alexandria. We will be posting periodic updates as the project progresses.

Here is a rendering of the gravel walkway that we will be doing through a row of Hornbeams along the side of the yard between the pool and the fence:

Here are the Hornbeam trees before being installed:

Here is a Before/Progress photo of the Hornbeams being installed:

Check back periodically for updates on the progress!

Here are some great hints and tips to use as your Spring Garden Guide for getting your landscape off to the best possible start:

Prune Fruit Trees
Late Winter or Early Spring
Most fruit trees, including apples, pears, cherries, and peaches, benefit from being thinned every year. This encourages a more open habit that keeps the trees healthy and makes it easier to harvest the produce. The best time to prune is before new growth develops.

Pull Back Winter Mulch
Early Spring
If you spread a layer of winter mulch to protect your plants from heaving, you’ll want to remove it when plants begin to grow and danger of extreme winter temperatures has passed.

Prune Roses
Early Spring
In most regions, you’ll want to prune your roses just as or before new growth emerges from the canes. Cutting your roses back encourages strong, healthy shoots that will produce lots of blooms. A trim also gives the plants a more open habit, which helps them resist diseases such as black spot.

Plant Trees and Shrubs
Early, Mid-, or Late Spring
Spring’s cool, moist conditions make it the perfect time to add trees and shrubs to your yard. There are many reasons to grow trees and shrubs: They add value and beauty to your property; they can shade your home, reducing your summer energy bills; and if you select fruit-bearing varieties such as apples or blueberries, they supply food for your family.

Start Out with Cool-Season Annuals
Early or Midspring
Annual flowers fall into two categories: varieties that like it warm and varieties that like it cool. Most cool-season annuals, such as pansies and violas, nemesia, diascia, calendula, poppy, snapdragon, and sweet alyssum, can take a little frost. Plant them in beds and borders or containers and gain a few early weeks of color.

Cut Back Ornamental Grasses
Early Spring
Cut back ornamental grasses to about 4 inches tall before or just as they put out new growth. This is also the time to divide ornamental grasses, if you wish to do so.

Divide Overgrown Perennials
Early or Midspring

Give older perennials new life by dividing them. Dig up varieties (such as Siberian iris, aster, coreopsis, yarrow, and many hostas) that form dense clumps and split them apart. They’ll bloom better when they’re not crowding each other out — and you end up with more plants to fill in your yard or to share with friends and neighbors.

Start Seeds
Early Spring
Growing plants from seed is a great way to save money. You can gain a few extra weeks if you start them early indoors, or keep it simple by sprinkling seeds in moist, loosened soil outdoors.

Grow Early Vegetables
Early or Midspring
While tomatoes, peppers, and squash love hot summer weather, you can plant carrots, radishes, spinach, and other cool-season varieties while there’s still a bit of frost in the air. They’ll withstand light freezes easily, but need to be covered if the temperature drops into the low 20s.

Stop Weeds When They’re Small
Early and Midspring
Weeding is usually voted gardening’s most arduous task, and as such, it’s often put off. But pull, hoe, or otherwise remove weeds while they’re little, and you’ll make the job considerably easier. Small root systems are less work to pull, and if you get them before they go to seed, you’ll have fewer weeds in the future.

Prune Summer-Flowering Shrubs
Early Spring
If any of your summer-blooming shrubs, such as butterfly bush, potentilla, and summersweet, are getting out of hand, give them a haircut in early spring. This won’t affect their blooms because they make their flowers on new growth.

Get Your Potatoes Going
Early Spring
Early spring is a great time to start spuds. You can get them in the ground earlier than you probably think — just wait until has warmed to about 45 degrees F or so. Plant most potatoes about 6 inches deep and 8-10 inches apart.

Make Records of Your Garden
Early, Mid-, and Late Spring
Fall is the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs. If you need to add color to fill in holes in your spring garden or include new plants to accent ones you already have, take pictures. That way you can refer back to them in autumn and know exactly where to plant.

Spread Mulch
Midspring
When the soil has warmed up and dried out in spring, spread a 2-inch-deep layer of mulch (such as shredded wood, pine needles, or compost) over the soil surface to discourage weeds in your planting beds and hold moisture once hot summer days arrive.

Prune Spring-Blooming Shrubs
Mid- or Late Spring
Once your forsythia, camellias, lilacs, and mock oranges finish flowering for the season, give them a haircut if they need it. They start making next year’s floral display just a few weeks after they finish blooming, so cut them back as flowers fade so you won’t be disappointed next year.

Reference: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/yard/garden-care/spring-garden-guide/?sssdmh=dm17.587577&esrc=nwwu032012&email=2520655878

Here are some great landscape and garden articles from This Old House:

75 Outdoor Upgrades for Under $75

Cook Up a Great Outdoor Kitchen

19 Beautiful Backyard Building Projects

Everything You Need to Know to Grow a Lush Lawn

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