Shorter days, longer nights and lots of sneezing

So, what season is it right now in Toronto?
Autumn? No. Winter? No!! Its the “fall-sick” season. People are taking days off, sitting home and drenching paper tissues (called ‘kleenex’ here, after the popular brand) in slimy body fluids that seem to flow eternally through their nostrils. There are plenty of coughs, sneezes, headache and body pain to go with the kleenex-drenching ritual. Looming over all of us is the risk of H1N1 pandemic, and indeed people are spending hours in queues outside hospitals to get a shot of the experimental H1N1 vaccine (they should rather call it “anti”-H1N1 vaccine, right?). Thankfully I haven’t indulged in this sport yet, (”Touch wood” – you are supposed to say that to ward off bad energy (or something like that)) but I do think that it would be wise to buy some Kleenex stock (pun intended).

Meanwhile I’m photographing the Sun who now wants to hang out in the southern hemisphere (probably because its summer there.)

I often have classes at night, from 19:00 to 22:00. I remember coming home from summer classes in clear day light, but now I have to bike with my lights ON even when I am going to the class. Today, the sun rose at 7:05 and set at 17:05, what a short sun run (and it only gets worse!).

Meanwhile in some good news, Toronto is all set to host the 2015 Pan American games (and that will hopefully connect the airport by a subway line!)

Communism might be a thing of the past, but the presence of Lenin still lingers.

Lenin mosaic, Sochi

I associated the breakdown of communism with removal of Lenin’s statues from public spaces of eastern Europe. On my trip to Russia, I was pleasantly surprised to see a number of statues of Mr. Vladimir Lenin (or Nikolai Lenin) on streets, parks and squares. Granted, their numbers might have decreased, and Lenin’s reverence among the post-modern generation might have declined, but you still get a feeling that someone is watching you all the time.

Lenin was the founder and the first head of state of USSR. He tweaked the Marxist communist theories to suit the predominantly agrarian Russian economy and lead a revolutionary movement against the Tsarist monarchy in the country. It is very interesting to read the history – Russian Revolution of 1905.

Lenin’s Mausoleum, Red Square, Moscow

Today he rests in a mausoleum at the Red Square, in the heart of Moscow, his body fully preserved. When he died in 1924, the line of mourners wanting to offer respects to his dead body was so huge, that Stalin, Lenin’s successor, decided to preserve Lenin body as a holy relic. Lenin’s brain was removed for scientific studies (of the perfect communist brain), his face was bleached, eyes and lips were sewn tight and his body was finally sent for preservation. The preservation technique is still a state secret.

Lenin has been resting here since 1924 (except a retreat to Siberia during WW II). From 1953-1961, he shared his tomb with Stalin, but then a well-known Bolshevik lady narrated, to the Soviet Party congress, her dream in which Lenin expressed to her his unwillingness to rest next to his ‘evil’ successor. Many believe this ‘dream narration’ was planned by the leaders. Stalin was promptly removed and buried among other (minor) leaders of the Soviet state.

Lenin’s Mausoleum, simply titled “ЛЕНИН” (”LENIN”)

The mausoleum is open for public visits from 10:00 to 13:00 except on Monday and Friday. Visitors must deposit their baggage at the left-luggage office in the State History Museum on the Red Square. Young soldiers posted every few meters will prompt you to keep walking and their serious, humorless faces will make sure that you don’t indulge in a non-serious behavior. Photography is not permitted inside. Lenin’s body can be seen enclosed in a glass case and brightly illuminated. His face looks kinda pale, shiny and waxy, but very similar to his statues and pictures. You may stand here for a couple of seconds, but you’ll be nudged to move on by guards who look like ghosts – since they are completely covered in dark army uniforms except for their faces which look bright and pale in the dim light emerging from Lenin’s casket.

Salutes to Lenin, one of the great leaders the world had.

With Christmas being just around the corner, and that annoying relative you hate to see each year threatening to sit around your dining room table, what better way to enjoy the festivities than to go on a Christmas break?

There are some excellent destinations to choose from at this time of year so it’s important to be well informed when it comes to choosing that top destination.

If you’re looking for a place that can offer entertainment and great food twenty four hours a day then look no further than Las Vegas. Las Vegas is famous for being the biggest little city in the world. There are miles and miles of hotels offering entertainment at excellent prices with regular performances from the likes of Cher, Tom Jones, Celine Dion and even Carlos Santana.

If you’re on a diet then Las Vegas is not the place for you as the place offers some of the best all you can eat buffets in the world, all at reasonable prices. All you’ll need to decide on is which type of food you prefer, as there’s a vast array to choose from ranging from Mexican to Thai, Chinese to Lebanese, and of course the all American burger, the choice is yours.

Obviously no one can visit Las Vegas and just enjoy the food. Las Vegas has some of the top casino destinations running through its Nevada desert so if winning money is on you’re agenda then you’ll be visiting the best place on Earth.

However, if you’re looking to stay closer to home, then what better Christmas destination than Spain or specifically La Manga. La Manga offers one of the best Christmas time destinations as it not only has the all year round climate but to top it off it has some of the best golf courses in Europe. In fact if golf is one of your hobbies then you’ll be pleased to know that La Manga has been repeatedly voted as European Golf Resort of the Year. With La Manga being only two hours away from the UK, it’s a quick destination for those who are looking for a nice relaxing Christmas break without having to spend a lot of hours travelling.

Now, for those of you who want to go to Spain and enjoy the culture, food and fantastic scenery, but want to enjoy something other than golf, then Ibiza may be the place for you. Just a short boat ride from mainland Spain and you’ll be in mini paradise. Ibiza has been given the rather unfair stereotypical image of being a party island and whilst this may be true during the summer months, this couldn’t be further from the truth during the winter season.

During the winter season, Ibiza can be an excellent destination for exploring, as many of the beaten tracks are signposted for those of you seeking to enjoy a nature trail either by foot or by car and stopping to explore the beautiful and almost deserted beaches. Restaurants cater for all palates and Ibiza is child friendly if you wish to take the whole family away for Christmas and there are regular flights from most UK airports.

Halloween

Haloween, believed to have originated from the European Pagan festival of the dead, is celebrated every year on October 31, which happened to be a Saturday this year. Maybe that gave an extra punch to the celebrations because I saw people dressed up the previous night and even the previous weekend. The festive mood probably has to do with the fact that the seasons are changing and everyone simply wants an occasion to celebrate.

Here are some pictures (very few are taken by me) from the street parties, prominently in the Church-Wellesley neighborhood where the streets, closed for traffic, were overflowing with people.

Toronto Halloween Pool on Flickr

It was the first Halloween I celebrated, and the first time I got dressed up (note: put your shirt on before painting your face!)

Chad (some freak) and me (butterfly). I had silly wings but they got ruined while cycling.

Journey back home
We had breakfast with the visitors and wished them a good journey ahead. It was time to leave this beautiful place. There was a bus to Aluva waiting for the three of us at the bus stand. The ride was long and down hill for the initial part and on flat land after Kothamangalam. We traveled significantly in the plains but noticed that roads in Kerala are full of turns and bends and straight patches occur seldom.

The obscure Airport

At Aluva we purchased some packets of fresh banana chips fried in coconut oil, a signature snack of Kerala. The Cochin airport is now located at Nedumbassery, about 13 km from Aluva, but few people in the town seem to know about it.

Curious flag posts of political parties

Security checks at Cochin airport was extra tight and my rucksack was scanned and re scanned. I had to leave my deospray behind and explain many other things (we had huge packets of banana chips).
Cochin (Kochi) airport

Epilogue
Many people had declared that this trip would be very hectic and it was sinful to travel to Kerala for such a short duration. Never mind all that. We had a blast and I can’t wait to go back to Kerala once again. It is a state of genuinely hospitable people, delicious foods, and endowed with infinite natural beauty.

Thanks for staying with me on this journey!

Fruit Market

Fruit Market

Munnar sightseeing
DTDC (District Tourism Development Corporation) Idukki arranges a sightseeing tour of places around Munnar. Our bus had 3 couples and 2 tourists from Belguim besides the three of us. The excursion is resonably priced at Rs. 250, however we were unable to visit one destination due to bad road conditions. Also the Eravikulam National Park was overcrowded, so the authorities closed it by the time we reached. There are 23 gigantic tea estates in Munnar and one can see tea farms at various stages – fresh plantations, tender leaves and plucked stumps. The day was very wet in the morning, dry during the afternoon and it started raining heavily in the evening again!
Tea plantations

Madupatty Dam: 160ft high with a vast reservoir.

Rural areas around Munnar

Belgian friends
We met Sofie and Grete, tourists from Belguim on this DTDC trip. They are on a 2-month holiday in India since July 02. Traveling all over south India, they are totally comfortable with south Indian food, the travel. In the last leg of their journey, they will be in Mumbai. It was a pleasant experience to meet them, and incidentally, we discovered that they were staying in the room bang opposite to ours!

Tea! Everywhere!
Tea Flower

Tea plantations

Tea plantations

Mumbai experience?
After breakfast, the trio left for Munnar. The bus was packed to its full capacity, yet the conductor was squeezing people in. We were sitting on front seats that unfortunately fell in the ‘reserved for ladies’ area. The conductor asked us to remain seated amidst the group of ladies surrounding us (oh god, they talk so much!). This scene reminded me of the crowds in Mumbai local trains. These guys can definitely cope up with the crowds in suburban trains of Mumbai. Strangely enough, in the initial part of the journey, large number of ladies were traveling, each one with some warm utensils in their bags.

I cannot easily distinguish between Tamil and Malayalam languages unless I pay careful attention to the speech. From the behavior and accents, one can feel a dominating Tamil influence in this border town. Many shops have texts written in both languages and plenty of buses and private vehicles ply with Tamil Nadu number plates.

Rain, winding roads and tea estates

Spiraling roads
The route from Thekkady to Munnar travels through some of the highest ranges in Western Ghats. The road takes continuous twists and turns alternating between valleys, forests, streams and peaks. As Munnar draws closer, one can see extensive tea plantations covering hills completely. Just before Devikulam, the road passes through some breathtaking views!

Confluence at Munnar
Munnar Town

Munnar (mooon aar), in Tamil, literally means ‘3 rivers’. The town is situated around the confluence of these rivers. Typifying India’s secular culture, a church, a temple and a mosque are prominently located on three hillocks overlooking the town. In the evening, we went for a walk to the old Munnar town, about 2 kilometers away. Munnar is full of picturesque surroundings, with more than 12,000 hectares of lush tea fields, eucalyptus plantations and ofcourse hill ranges, streams and very pure air. At night, draped in plastic sheets, we went out again for a walk in heavy rains and chilly winds for a cup of coffee.

Churches

Mosque and a temple on adjacent hills

Comparitively though I liked Thekkady more. It is a silent and isolated place compared to Munnar which is relatively crowded (umm.. compare Matheran and Mahabaleshwar).

Fall colours and Canadian Geese at York University

Autumn is at its peak in Toronto and everything is pretty colorful. Last Saturday afternoon, the campus was unusually empty and the central lawn was taken over by geese who were busy having lunch.

I love walking on crunchy leaves that carpet the ground. When there’s wind, these leaves scatter around in circles and loops, flying all over the place, like little kids who just finished school and are running home.

Night journey
The bus reached Kottayam at 03:30 when the conductor woke us up from deep sleep. Hoping to get refreshed we ordered tea from the tea stall, but it tasted bland.. damn!
It was raining a little and formed small puddles all over the bus terminal. There was nobody in a position to tell us about the bus.. aargh! Finally found one bus driver sitting in his idly parked bus:

Me: Excuse me, Do you know when the next bus for Thekkady leaves?
Driver: Makes a clueless face. I realize that speaking complete English sentences is not required
Me: Sir, Thekkady bus. When? (with gestures)
Driver: Rattles something in incomprehensible Malayalam, speaks to a passenger. I think he is consulting
Me: No Malayalam. Please English
Driver: 5 o clock
Me: Thanks. Thekkady reach when?
Driver: 8 o clock
Me: Bus start Kottayam?
Driver: No, Kochi going.
Ok I quit. Next person
Me: Sir, Thekkady bus when? (Yatin, my office mate instructed me to address everyone by ’sir’)
Person: Bus go, 4 o’ clock, go fast. And points to a bus for Kumbli. lafda.
Me: Kumbli no, Thekkady bus where?
Person: Kumbli, Thekkady neighbour. Indicates with gestures that these are adjoining towns.

Damnit Priyank! you have not done any homework. I curse myself.

From the beach to the forest
Grrr.. There was no driver, and it was dark inside that bus! But, after a while, that bus did leave for Kumbli, the bus terminal 4 km away from Thekkady. It started getting cold and windy in the morning as the bus breezed through the hilly roads passing through dense forest. We rented a room near the Thekkady forest entrance.

Breakfast, aka tiffin

Dosa and Ayurvedic water

Piping hot dosas, steaming idlis, spicy sambar and coconut chutney. Foods such as these formed a part of our daily breakfast, which is referred here as ‘tiffin’. Note that tiffin is not available after 10 or 11 am, after which the lunchtime begins. A cup of hot coffee or tea in the typical large white china clay cups is a must after this. You’ll also find ‘red’ ayurvedic water being served in the mornings.

In the afternoon we ventured inside the forest to Periyar lake formed due to the dam on river Periyar. KTDC (Kerala Tourism Development Corporation) arranges a 90 minutes boat excursion inside the lake, which offers a breathtaking view of the entire region. During non-monsoon season, they say, it is possible to spot wild animals too. We were not very lucky in that respect.

Periyar Lake

Sorry state of affairs

KTDC and Forest department arrange the boat ride inside the Periyar lake. These boats are ill maintained and one can see oil slick at different parts on the lake. Also the roof is ineffective as it leaks from unexpected points, so be careful with the camera. There are neither any dustbins nor any rescue floats on the boat Finally, the boat is filled beyond capacity, which clearly means that if there are no legal tickets, there is still a way in.

The educated village
In the evening, we went to the Kumbli market for light food but ended up having a heavy lunch. The town is just a tiny mesh of roads around the main bus stand. There is a lot of Tamil influence as the border is only 5 km away from here.

Market

Kerala is really an educated state. There was some communist political leader speaking at the bus stand and a decent crowd gathered to hear him. His speech made no sense to us due to our inability to understand Malayalam. However, we did distinctly hear words like ‘US’, ‘crude oil’ and stuff. Incredible it may sound, these politicians were talking about world topics and people were listening! Imagine such a thing happening in Maharashtra!!

Politics!

The village has narrow roads dotted with a number of cottages and residences that proclaim ‘home stay’. These places offer good rooms (at high prices, aimed at the foreign tourist) for long durations. There are a number of shops selling spices and other overpriced stuff (again aimed at the foreign tourist) It started getting colder after sunset. Rains accompanied with cold winds made it quite exciting to go out for a stroll at night.

Souvenir shops

All three of us being (smart, talented, etc..) Engineers, that night we had lenghty discussion over some topic and tried to model some equations to solve the problem we were facing. After lot of mental masturbation, the issue was settled!

Tourist destination Kerala

At every moment you will note how tourism has influenced the state. It appears that people are convinced of the equation between tourism and prosperity. At all the places, the common man is extremely helpful and polite. At times people will talk amongst themselves before giving you directions. Even the government staff (Bus, KTDC etc) was courteous enough with information to help us plan. Yes, the language problem exists, but broken english will surely work. Infact, the townspeople take pride in conversing in Hindi too! The people are genuinely warm and hospitable. No wonder it is one of India’s most famous destinations.

Suprabhatam

While Advait and Devendra were sleeping (ok, I wont say snoring) peacefully, I went out for a little early morning walk. The streets were just waking up on this lazy Saturday morning. My first taste of coffee in Kerala was at the main junction, standing along with many lungi-clad people who were giving me strange look. These are pictures of M.G. Road, the central road of Trivandrum

We were intrigued by the design of the buses. They have no glass windows. Instead there is a thick sheet of cloth that is wrapped and fastened at the top. Simply pulling the lever will unwrap the sheet, so the window is either fully open or fully shut (0 or 1). The bus conductors have electronic machines, which produce electronic tickets. Hmmm.. certainly something that would ease the life of Mumbai’s BEST bus conductors!

We were skeptical about the monsoon, since it supposedly rains continuously during this time in Kerala. Fortunately, today the weather today was bright and after everyone awoke, we promptly decided to see the Kovallam and Kanyakumari beaches.

Breakfast and remote darshan of the Padmanabhaswamy temple lifted our spirits. A note for the tourists: the city bus station at Trivandrum is a kilometer away from the central bus station, but the walk is pleasurable anyway.

The crescent beaches
Kovalam has 3 main beaches – Hawa, Lighthouse and Ashoka beach. We landed at Hawa (or Eve’s) beach, which is crescent shaped and very beautiful. One can walk along the shore and the rocks to the adjoining Lighthouse beach. The beach is arguably Kerala’s most famous beach and charming place to see the sun dip into Arabian sea.

Instructions at Kovalam in English, Malayalam, Hindi and.. German!

Kovalam beach

Fishermen weaving their nets

Abu from Mazgaon
We met this guy Abu, who was waiting for a bus to Kanyakumari at the Kovallam bus stand. He was from Mumbai, traveling alone for the first time to Kerala. He gladly joined our gang for the next day.

Delicious Keralite food
We had some lovely traditional Kerala lunch at Trivandrum. They served so many delicacies and rice that we were overwhelmed! Sambar, rasam, curd, daal, vegetables, Payasam, papadam, and many more items we didn’t know the names of. It was tempting to taste fish curry too, but since it was rainy season, we restricted ourselves to vegetarian food.
Food!

Palace of wood
Our next stop was the Padmanabhapuram palace in Tamil Nadu, on our way to Kanyakumari. Built in 1601, this palace was the seat of the Travancore rulers. This is the largest wooden palace in India and is constructed with teak and granite. Guides at various places in the palace give details about various rooms and areas.

Padmanabhapuram wood palace and a shrine outside.

Kerala and Tamil Nadu
You will notice some difference in the cultures of the two states. People, dressing, language, courtesy and even the cleanliness levels of the cities vary. Don’t be surprised to see 50% of seats in the front portion of the buses in Tamil Nadu reserved for ladies. Women in Tamil Nadu travel a lot – sometimes they outnumber the men! Noticed this trend twice: On the Trivandrum-Kanyakumari route and again on Thekkady-Munnar route. Disclaimer: I have barely traveled into Tamil Nadu and not in a position to form an opinion yet.

Southernmost tip of Indian peninsula!
We hopped from Trivandrum to Thuckalay to Nagercoil and arrived at Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin), which was in neighboring state. The landscape was very pleasant!.

Zipping from one little town to the other in state buses

It was evident that we would not be able to witness the sunset from the southernmost point of India. Too cloudy. We had no plans for overnight stay, hence could not see other places of tourist interest in the area. Nevertheless, the experience of being at the extreme point was a memorable enough.

Kanyakumari

Bay of Bengal – Indian Ocean – Arabian Sea

Journey from the deserted Kanya kumari bus terminal to Trivandrum took over 3 hours. We ate dinner at Trivandrum, quit the room and immediately boarded the next bus to Kottayam, which was a journey of another 3 hours.

In past 24 hours, we had flown from Mumbai (Maharashtra) over the Arabian sea, landed in Trivandrum (Kerala) and saw the sunset at Kanyakumari (Tamil Nadu). Pretty cool, isn’t it?