Professor Cocktail

Gin Review: Aviation Gin

David J. Montgomery — Wed, 17 Apr 2013 10:06:14 -0400

Aviation Gin
American Gin
Grade:(Superb)
Price: $28 (750ml)

First launched in 2006 as one of the pioneers of the new trend in American gins, Aviation has been repackaged with a striking new look that classes up the bottle to match the contents.

Aviation tastes like gin, but not the gin we're used to. It has the requisite juniper flavor, but it's much more subtle than in London dry gin. (That makes this a nice alternative for those who find gin too piney.) It has pronounced notes of citrus and spice, and an almost briny character that would probably go great in a Martini.

Aviation is softer than most gins. A little more inviting. It's designed to be used in cocktails, especially those from the pre-Prohibition era. But you can certainly drink it straight if you want to, and won't be disappointed.

I didn't make a Martini (or an Aviation, this gin's namesake cocktail), but I did mix it in a Gin and Tonic. I was concerned that the less assertive character of this spirit would get lost in the mix. But no fear. It balanced quite nicely, making for a tasty, refreshing cocktail that is dangerously easy to drink.

Aviation Gin is 84-proof, but never harsh. It's a different style of gin than the norm, but that's a good thing. Tasty alternatives are always welcome, and Aviation Gin matches up quite nicely on that score.

Taste Test: Blended Irish Whiskey

David J. Montgomery — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 14:28:06 -0400

St. Patrick's Day is just around the corner, which means many drinkers will be turning to Irish whiskey for their drink of choice. The Irish whiskey category is hotter than it's ever been, so there are more choices than ever before.

Here at Professor Cocktail we do the heavy lifting so that you don't have to. ("Heavy lifting" sounds better than "heavy drinking.") We sampled a variety of Irish whiskeys so that we could decide which to recommend to you.

For this taste, we focused on blended Irish whiskey. This is by far the most popular type of Irish whiskey available in the U.S., as well as the most widely available.

A blended whiskey is a combination of different whiskeys, including both single malt and neutral (or near-neutral) grain whiskey. Blending the whiskey gives it a lighter, less flavorful character that many drinkers find more pleasant. (It turns out that more flavor isn't always better.)

For our line-up we selected a variety of the most common blended Irish whiskeys, several submitted by the spirits companies themselves, and a few from our own stash. We also included one extra-aged whiskey for comparison. (All Irish whiskey is aged for at least three years -- but often no longer than that.)

This group of whiskeys was defined more by their similarities than by their differences. As expected, all of them were fairly light in flavor and without a lot of complexity. The colors, tastes, and aromas didn't vary as widely as with many spirits. Even so, there were still some differences that allowed us to pick our favorites.

Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey ($24) -- Straight-ahead blended Irish whiskey: a little sharp, a little sweet, with a malty flavor that reminds you of breakfast cereal. This is light and easy, and very drinkable.
(Recommended)

Michael Collins Blended Irish Whiskey ($23) -- The stand-out of the entry-level whiskeys. This spirit has a rich, honeyed flavor, with just a touch of smoke, that was very appealing. Vanilla notes contribute to the mild sweetness, but everything stays in balance. Overall, a very nice whiskey.
(Highly Recommended)

Concannon Irish Whiskey ($25) -- This whiskey, distilled by Cooley in Ireland, is aged in petite sirah casks at the Concannon Winery in Livermore, California. That gives it the expected "winey" notes, which aren't uncommon with Irish and Scotch whiskey. What was a surprise was the aroma and flavor of smoke. It was definitely the strongest char of the group, reminding us more of Scotch than the usual Irish. That could be an advantage for some drinkers, but the flavors didn't balance for us, making this one a disappointment.
(Not Recommended)

Bushmills Blended Irish Whiskey ($24) -- A raw, grainy flavor on first sip gives this whiskey plenty of bite. It mellows out after that, though, and ends up more astringent and spicier than most of the others. Reactions were mixed, but the floral/vegetal accents were popular with some.
(Recommended)

Tullamore Dew 12 Year Old Special Reserve ($38) -- The only whiskey in the tasting with an age statement, this is a blend of whiskeys from 12 to 15 years old. The extra time in the barrel gives this whiskey the darkest color or any in the sample. It also gives it the most complex flavor. Less sweet than the others, it has a tart, fruity taste with elements of caramel and spice. Although one taster found it bitter, overall this got high marks.
(Highly Recommended)

Jameson Blended Irish Whiskey ($25) -- The expected grainy, sweet character, but little else to distinguish it flavor-wise. This whiskey seemed hotter than the rest, and consequently seemed even lighter in taste. (You can taste the alcohol, but the malt flavor is overmatched.) I prefer Jameson in cocktails, but if you're searching for that Irish whiskey "kick," this is the way to go. If you're looking for a subtle sipper, look elsewhere.
(Recommended)

Tullamore Dew Blended Irish Whiskey ($21) -- A typical Irish whiskey, produced at an untypically fine level. Medium sweet, slightly honeyed, slightly malty. This made us think of breakfast: cereal and toast. An excellent everyday whiskey and a nice finish to the tasting.
(Highly Recommended)

R.I.P. Truman Cox, Master Distiller

David J. Montgomery — Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:16:45 -0500

There was some sad news for the whiskey world yesterday. Truman Cox, 44, master distiller at the A. Smith Bowman Distillery, died suddenly. He leaves behind a wife and daughter, as well as a lot of people who respected and admired him.

Truman was the lead chemist at Buffalo Trace before moving to Fredericksburg to take over Bowman in June 2011. It had long been his dream to be a master distiller, and he was by all accounts overjoyed at his job.

I didn't know Truman personally, although we were Facebook friends. Just a few days ago he was making jokes about how he was sick and the doctor didn't know what was wrong with him. And then he was gone.

He was outspoken and funny, a friendly guy who knew his bourbon. I imagine he was a great fellow to sit down and enjoy a glass of whiskey with -- preferably whiskey he himself had made.

Truman was doing some great things at A. Smith Bowman, guiding them to a place of growing respect and prominence among bourbon drinkers. (I reviewed the John J. Bowman bourbon and liked it.)

He'll be missed.

Wine Wednesday: Pacific Rim Dry Riesling 2008

David J. Montgomery — Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:57:54 -0500

Pacific Rim Dry Riesling 2008
Riesling
Columbia Valley (Washington State)
Price: $12
Highly recommended

Pacific Rim Dry Riesling is produced in Washington's Columbia Valley, a region growing in regard for its fine Rieslings. Ninety percent of the wine made by Pacific Rim is Riesling of one type or another, so it's no surprise they know what they're doing.

Pacific Rim Dry Riesling 2008 is off-dry, even slightly tart, with prominent citrusy fruit and subtler floral flavors. It has a moderate level of alcohol (13.5%), so it's easy to drink a few glasses if you're having it with dinner. And you should, as it goes very well with food.

Pacific Rim Dry Riesling is aged in stainless steel tanks and never sees oak. That gives it a light, refreshing taste that will especially appeal to those who are looking to try a white wine, but aren't fans of Chardonnay. This is not an overly complicated wine, but it has enough flavor and crispness to please most crowds.

Assorted News from the Spirits Business

David J. Montgomery — Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:11:48 -0500

We're mostly consumer-focused here at Professor Cocktail, but occasionally we come across news from the booze biz that we think you might be interested in.

The U.S. spirits market achieved steady growth in 2012, as vodka solidified its position as the leading category on the strength of its top-selling brands. Total U.S. spirits sales rose by 3% to 204 million cases, according to Impact Databank. Smirnoff vodka was #1, rising by 2.1% to 9.8 million cases. Bacardi rum was #2, approximately 200,000 cases behind.
Bulleit Bourbon is set to offer a higher-proof, higher-priced offshoot, Bulleit 10. The new 10-year-old Bulleit expression is 91.2-proof (the core brand is 90-proof) and will retail for around $45 a bottle, approximately $20 higher than the core brand, depending on the market. It’s expected to hit shelves this month.
In related news, the famed Stitzel-Weller Distillery (once owned by Pappy Van Winkle, now owned by Diageo) is reopening. No doubt the bourbon will be nothing like the stuff they used to make, but it's still kinda cool.
Grand Marnier is planning to introduce three new products over the next year: GM Titanium, a double-distilled, clear, Cognac-based spirit targeted at urban millennial consumers; Louis Alex Bourbon Barrel, a new cuvée, double distilled with essence of orange and aged in Bourbon barrels; and Grand Marnier Raspberry Peach, a new flavor extension.
Sazerac Co. is introducing Epic, a new French vodka, to the American market. Sazerac plans to start shipping Epic (roughly $13 a 750-ml.) to around 30 states in February, with national availability expected later in the year. Along with the core offering, Epic has six flavor extensions: Peach, Whipped Cream, Kiwi Strawberry, Cherry, Cake and Coconut. Sazerac said more flavors will be added at later dates.
Celebrity mixologists Simon Ford, Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric have launched a new venture, The 86 Co., starting with a portfolio of four mixology-focused spirits. The lineup includes Caña Brava ($34.99), a three-year-old rum aged in a combination of new uncharred American oak and used American whiskey barrels; Fords gin ($37.99), distilled in London and featuring a blend of nine botanicals; Tequila Cabeza ($42.99); and Aylesbury Duck vodka ($30.99).
Serrallés USA is launching a new ultra-premium Tequila brand, Casamigos, this month. Casamigos was created by actor George Clooney and nightlife entrepreneur Rande Gerber, alongside partner Mike Meldman.
Beam sells brands to Luxco for $65M. Including Rebel Bourbon, Calvert whiskey, and Dark Eyes vodka.
A. Hardy USA is set to introduce a new liqueur—Serata Amaretto Di Piemonte—to the U.S. market. Produced in Ghemme, Italy, the new offering will be available nationwide beginning next month, priced at $22.99 a 750-ml. bottle.'
According to GuestMetrics, the fastest growing cocktail flavors in restaurants and bars in 2012 were Mango (+35), Tea (+30), Ginger (+15), Melon (+15), and Cucumber (+10).

Cocktail of the Day: Bourbon Milk Punch

David J. Montgomery — Fri, 25 Jan 2013 09:57:28 -0500

Bourbon Milk Punch

1 1/2 oz Bourbon Whiskey
3/4 oz Simple Syrup
1/2 Bar Spoon Vanilla Extract (a couple dashes)
3 oz Whole Milk or Half and Half
Garnish with freshly-grated nutmeg and/or cinnamon.

Shake well with ice, then strain into an ice-filled Old Fashioned glass.

Mardi Gras is coming, and this classic New Orleans brunch cocktail is the perfect way to start off a day of revelry. Or any day, for that matter.

The Milk Punch is often made with brandy instead of bourbon. (That's the way they make it at Commander's Palace.) I like bourbon better, though, so I make it this way. You can also substitute rum or spiced rum.

Rum Review: Shellback Silver Rum

David J. Montgomery — Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:57:55 -0500

Shellback Caribbean Silver Rum
Bajan Rum
Grade: (Above Average)
Price: $16 (750ml)

Shellback Caribbean Rum, currently available in silver and spiced varieties, represents another bold move into the spirits world by E.&J. Gallo, the ubiquitous California winemakers. It's produced in Barbados by the West Indies Rum Distillery, the company that also make the rum that goes into Cockspur and Malibu.

Shellback Silver Rum is reportedly aged for at least one year in once-used American bourbon barrels, which are the most popular barrels for aging rum. It must be heavily filtered after that aging, because it's completely clear in appearance. There's a little bit of spice on the nose, but mostly vanilla. Lots and lots of vanilla. You could easily mistake this for vanilla extract. (This could be from the aging, although a year in wood isn't very long, but more likely it means the distiller gave it a little help.)

The vanilla also hits you on the first sip. It's not as strong as the aroma, but it's definitely there. This rum is sweet, with a fruity, molasses-y flavor. There's just a little spice and acidity that hits you at the end, but mostly it's sweet vanilla. It also has a creamy texture that is quite nice. This is the standard 40% ABV, but it goes down very easily.

Shellback Silver Rum is pleasant enough to drink neat, but it's obviously designed to use in cocktails, and it certainly works well there. It's delicious in a Cherry Daiquiri or Cuba Libre. Any rum drink that works well with a hint of vanilla would likely taste good with Shellback.

This isn't an especially sophisticated rum. But it's a tasty and useful one, and the low price -- I've seen it on sale for $11 -- can't be beat.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Plays with Fire

David J. Montgomery — Tue, 22 Jan 2013 09:17:33 -0500

I'm always fascinated with the things being done by Buffalo Trace Distillery. They're constantly experimenting, trying to find new ways to make fine bourbon. A lot of them don't work, but that's just part of the fun. Here's their latest, which sounds like it produced some good results.

Just in time for colder weather, Buffalo Trace Distillery offers a solution to your winter chills. The latest Experimental Collection bourbons both survived the heat. The Hot Box Toasted Barrel Bourbon Whiskey and #7 Heavy Char Barrel Bourbon Whiskey are the two latest offerings from the Kentucky distillery.

Both of these experiments study the effects of extreme heat on oak barrels and the flavor of the bourbon inside.

The Hot Box Toasted Barrel Bourbon involved placing the barrel staves into a “Hot Box” at 133 degrees Fahrenheit. Then, the staves were steamed before being assembled into a barrel. The goal was to drive the flavors deep into the wood. Next the barrels were filled with Buffalo Trace Rye Bourbon Mash #2 and left to age for 16 years and 8 months. The resulting bourbon is a well-balanced whiskey with fruity notes complimented by a caramel and buttery taste.

The #7 Heavy Char Barrel Bourbon Whiskey experiment used barrels which were charred for 3.5 minutes, as opposed to the normal 55 second char used by Buffalo Trace typically. The barrels were then filled with Buffalo Trace Rye Bourbon Mash #2 and left to age for 15 years and 9 months. The end result is a bourbon with an oaky aroma followed by a body that is heavy and complex. A smoky and robust flavor, with fantastic woody notes and hints of vanilla, fruit and tannin. It is dry and balanced.

“Toying with barrels is fun and interesting. It’s quite dramatic to see how something as simple as an extra heavy barrel char can influence the taste of bourbon,” said Harlen Wheatley, master distiller. “Both of these experiments yielded very interesting and balanced flavor profiles that I think most people will enjoy tasting.”

These “hot” barrels are part of the more than 1,500 experimental barrels of whiskey aging in the warehouses of Buffalo Trace Distillery. Each of these barrels has unique characteristics that differentiate it from all others. Some examples of these experiments include unique mash bills, type of wood and barrel toasts. In order to further increase the scope, flexibility and range of the experimental program, an entire micro distillery, named The Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr. “OFC” Micro Distillery, complete with cookers, fermenting tanks, and a state-of-the-art micro still has been constructed within Buffalo Trace Distillery.

The Experimental Collection will be packaged in 375ml bottles. Each label will include all the pertinent information unique to that barrel of whiskey. These whiskeys will retail for approximately $46.35 each. These rare experimental bottles should be available in late January or early February. For more information on the Experimental Collection or the other products of Buffalo Trace Distillery, please contact Kris Comstock at kcomstock@buffalotrace.com.

Cocktail of the Day: Cherry Daiquiri

David J. Montgomery — Fri, 18 Jan 2013 10:43:10 -0500

Cherry Daiquiri

2 oz Shellback Silver Rum
1 oz Lime Juice
1 oz Simple Syrup
2 Maraschino Cherries
1 tsp Maraschino Cherry Syrup

Muddle the cherries in the bottom of a mixing glass along with the juice and syrups. Add the rum and shake vigorously with ice. Strain into a glass filled with crushed ice.

I used Shellback Silver Rum for this because it has a sweet, vanilla taste that really complements the cherry. But you can substitute any silver rum.

Wine Wednesday: Pierre Gimonnet Gastronome Brut Blanc de Blanc 2006

David J. Montgomery — Tue, 15 Jan 2013 10:36:48 -0500

Pierre Gimmonet is far from a household name in the Champagne business. But even though they don't get the headlines, they produce some of the best wines in the region. A great example is the Pierre Gimonnet Gastronome Brut Blanc de Blanc 2006.

A "Blanc de Blanc" Champagne is a white wine made from white grapes -- in this case, Chardonnay. It's also billed as a "gastronome" Champagne, which basically means it's intended to be drunk with food. It has smaller bubbles and less added sugar, so as not to overly interfere with the palate.

We enjoyed this with a "surf and turf" meal of ribeye steaks and crab cakes. As promised, this wine was an excellent accompaniment to our dinner. It's fresh and lively, with a crisp flavor that cuts through your meal without overpowering it.

With delicious fruity flavors and a slight floral character, this is also a fine Champagne to drink on its own. I'd be happy to open a bottle of this any time.