Provence from Fayence: Provence Guide

Mons: peace and quiet in Provence

2011-06-01T22:32:31+01:00

I shot this video with an iPhone on the patio of our house in Quartier St. Jean. It's so quiet you can hear nothing but the wind and the buzzing of insects. It's a special place with enchanting views, but difficult to capture on film (at least for an amateur like me.)

Hotel Le France in Fayence

2011-06-01T10:22:36+01:00

We do enjoy dinner at the Hotel Le France. It's an atmospheric setting, with quirky pieces of art and paint effects. The food is modern, good combinations and well executed and presented.

A tiny pea soup with cream and parmesan shavings provided the amuse geule. We went with friends Ray and Jill. Starters included foie gras, with an assortment of fresh, seasoned vegetables; seared tuna on garlic toasts; deep-fried Provencale vegetables with Japanese-style dipping sauce. All perfectly cooked and laid out, with ample portions.

Mains included rabbit wrapped in prosciutto with seasonal vegebatables, magret de canard with cherries and sea bream. All well prepared and presented with good sauces. The pudding highlight was a delicately roast dish of strawberries.

The Hotel le France is a friendly family run restaurant in an ideal location in the midst of Fayence. In the summer, it's great to sit on the balcony, eat and drink and watch the world go by. The food is always well-cooked and presented, with interesting dishes which combine modern and classical French styles.

We are fans!

Chez Barbaroux in Mons, Provence

2011-05-30T09:18:17+01:00

It's the last few days of May so we ambled up to Mons for a local dinner. We tried the Auberge Provencal, with the spectacular views across Saint-Cezaire towards Cannes, bu that doesn't open in the evening until June. Le Petit Bonheur didn't have tables outside. So Chez Barbaroux got the business. The restaurant has a great setting, nestled in Mons' rambling alley way streets, unchanged for hundreds of years. We sat outside at small tables looking up at old residences and a still blue sky.

Last time we went to Chez Barbaroux, we felt it was inventive, but messy. The chef, we believe, used to work in Seillans at the Michelin-starred Castelleras. This time, the menu was simpler. We opted for the 28 Euro 3 course meal with a bottle of Chateau Rasque rose (superb).

We were presented with a delicious tapenade, added fig and almond contributing sweetness. Next, a mushroom sabayon in a little tumbler, infused with truffle (a highlight). I chose the Socca (a Provencal chickpea pastry thing) which was a trifle stodgy, but Sarah's truffle scrambled eggs with asparagus, prosciutto and pesto was very pleasant. We both enjoyed our mains: rabbit and fig ballotine, veal and fennel compote. Puddings were flawed but interesting.

We like Chez Barbaroux. The chef tries really hard to design original courses and flavours, but the execution fails a little (the tatin-ed apples were over-caramelised) in a sweet way, like a gifted child just missing the mark. The service is friendly and engaging, and if anything, the portions are on the large side (coming from someone over 6 foot tall). It's a pleasant place to be, enjoy a good evening with food that will get you talking.

Picasso in Provence

2011-05-24T21:05:56+01:00

Helpful article about a group of five women who track traces of Picasso in Provence: the exhibits, studios and homes of Picasso, as well as those of Matisse and Cezanne -- two painters that had a profound impact on the artist.

"On this magical romp through Picasso-Land, I felt what he felt and, as his feelings were revealed through his work, I gained a profound and lasting insight into his world."

They visit the Matisse Museum, Vence, Vallauris (where Picasso discovered the art of ceramics), the Picasso Museum in the Grimaldi Castle, Aix' the Granet Museum and Arles.

Four Seasons Provence - best place to perfect your golf?

2011-01-30T19:40:28+00:00

There's a spanking new golf performance centre at the Four Seasons Terre Blanche hotel. They claim its the best in Europe.

Opened in 2004, the Terre Blanche Golf Club includes two par-72 courses, both designed by Dave Thomas to make the most of the Provençal hillsides. The 6,005-metre (6,567-yard) Riou course is highly technical with steep slopes and winding fairways, while the 6,616-metre (7,235-yard) Château is the demanding and competitive showpiece.

Golf Director Jean-Marie Casella explains, “Terre Blanche is now the best place in Europe to perfect your game. We can work with people at all levels. Players can come here for just a few days, and they’ll go home much better golfers.”

Peter Mayle leaving Provence

2011-01-30T19:05:59+00:00

Peter Mayle, whose book ‘A Year in Provence’ popularised the region, is selling his house in Provence. Some might feel this is the end of an era or just selling out or killing the goose that lays the golden egg.

Reading the news about the sale, his house is not actually the house the books described. It's the one he could afford after the sales of the book. And very nice it looks too.

"Three storeys high, the 600sq m (6,458sq ft) house is shaded by enormous plane trees, and has several terraces overlooking either formal gardens or the large infinity pool..."a sublime and authentic property away from inquisitive eyes”, the many-shuttered house stands in 5.7 hectares of grounds that include an olive grove, a rose garden, two ponds and a vegetable garden. There’s an orangery, a dove cote, a summer diningroom and a wine cellar."

So what happened? "Clearly this isn’t the house that Mayle, a former advertising executive who gave up his job to move to France in the mid 1980s, wrote about in his best selling first book. That was a modest farmhouse Menerbes. However, the book was so popular that he found himself under siege from a constant stream of visitors wanting to meet Mayle." So he went to America.

Mons matchstick models (en Provence)

2010-11-17T19:45:16+00:00

I am reminded of one on Mons' special treasures. The Mons schoolbus driver, M. Audibert, has been building matchstick models for more than half a decade. Mostly ships. The largest sailing ship he has made uses 32,000 of them. It's quite astonishing

to see the attention to detail and love that goes into these creations which have occupied the artisan for close to 60 years.

My favourite production is the scale model of Mons, which you can see below courtesy of Provence Beyond. Every street, path and building all laid out - even little lights.

There is also now a rather splendid self-portrait in matches which Jill Mcqueen kindly sent me. A real lifematchstick man, so to speak.

Four Seasons facials

2010-11-07T10:29:37+00:00

Now you can get posh facials at the Four Seasons, Fayence. This woman Vaishaly looks after Elle Macpherson, Sophie Dahl and Nigella Lawson. Set amid fragrant fields of thyme and lavender in the Provencal hills near the town of Grasse, the Four Seasons is a world away from the hustle and bustle and now you can get a Signature Facial there for £216. Bargain?

Laura Ashley house in Provence for sale

2010-10-30T15:46:00+01:00

Laura Ashley and her husband vowed to 'work like hell, become successful and buy the most incredible home in St Tropez’.

Now, their lavish, historic estate is for sale at £9 million. According to the Telegraph: "Located just 13 miles from the glitzy bustle of St Tropez – and a mere five minutes from the beach as the Augusta helicopter flies – the estate is slightly reminiscent in feel of Marie Antoinette’s Petit Hameau, the mock farm she had constructed in the grounds of Versailles, where she could prettily play at being a shepherdess."

Dior chateau in Montauroux: Chateau de Colle Noire

2010-10-25T14:49:28+01:00

I was prompted by this piece in Paris Match to find out more about Christian Dior's chateau in Montauroux. in 1951, he acquired "le domaine de la Colle noire, à Montauroux, près de Grasse. Perchée sur une colline de cyprès, à cinq minutes de la maison familiale toujours habitée par sa sœur, devenue négociante, cette somptueuse demeure du XIXe, a un statut d’exploitation agricole. On y stockait la récolte de roses. De cette maison de maître, il veut faire sa « vraie maison [...] simple, solide et noble ». Il va dessiner les jardins et décorer l’intérieur. Cette bâtisse de 20 pièces, avec son parc de 50 hectares, sera rebaptisée « le château Dior » par les gens du coin. C’est là que, durant les dernières années de sa vie, il se coupe de la frénésie du monde de la mode pour se ressourcer et puiser une nouvelle inspiration. Pour cela, il met les mains dans la terre. Il bine, plante du jasmin, des rosiers, des cyprès, des oliviers, des glycines... « Le parfum du jasmin cueilli se mêlait à celui du jardin sur pied [...] cela composait un mélange d’une douceur exquise.»"

The article has some interesting background on Dior's love of jasmine & roses (Montauroux is near Grasse, the perfume capital of France, arguably the world), and how the local terroir inspired a love of perfume in the designer on his youthful holidays in Provence.

We have always driven right past the spot of the Dior Chateau, relying on rumours about its existence at the intersection of the road up from the Lac St. Cassien and the main Grasse-Draguignan road at Montauroux. From the car, we have peeked upwards many times trying to catch a glimpse of the Dior Chateau. And now, thanks to the Internet, I have tracked it all down.

First, I googled the place and found a whole Wikipedia entry in French. So it obviously all exists.

Next, I followed the link at the bottom of the article to Site officiel du château de la Colle Noire, a low-tech collection of pictures for the place.

And for the finishing touches, I checked out in Google Maps and found an aerial shot.

So now we know!

Nice on the French Riviera

2010-10-25T11:35:45+01:00

Visitors to Nice could do worse than follow this guide by Leah Larkin in Stars & Stripes, the website of the US Military. Odd place, but good piece.

"France’s fifth largest city is the capital of the glamorous French Riviera. There’s plenty of elegance along the Promenade des Anglais, its seaside boulevard lined with palms and turn-of-the-century hotels and grand apartments. There are traces of North Africa in the tangle of dark alleys of Vieux Nice (old Nice). The outdoor markets and restaurants, as well as the numerous street stands, capture the flair of neighboring Italy. It’s an irresistible mélange."

Moscow to Provence: new route announced

2010-10-23T12:13:06+01:00

A brand new luxury train has started running between Moscow and Nice in the south of France. The Russian rail sold about 90 percent of the tickets for the train’s maiden journey. The tickets ranged from around 306 euros to 1,200 euros for a luxury compartment. Of course, the luxury compartment does include a shower and a mini bar.

Nice first became a well established resort for Russian high society after the Romanov family built a vacation home there way back in 1856. Ever since then, Russia has had tons of travelers that make the journey each year. Most of these people are from high society and, thus, look for luxury transportation.

The PRs said: "This is sure to be a very popular route for Russian Railways."

Protests disrupt holidaymakers in Provence

2010-10-23T12:07:55+01:00

A horror story from Marseille where eight ladies were flying home to Dallas (via Paris) from a vintage buying tour in Provence at 6 a.m. yesterday and landed right in the middle of the French union protests and blockage at the Marseille Airport.

Dumped by the taxi driver at the gates of Marseille airport, despite extra financial inducements; they were forced to drag heavy bags overflowing with antiques to the terminal, through teeming protesters and their bonfires; met with refusal to check forward their bags past Paris and then had to schlepp from terminal A to F and were then blocked from boarding until American Airlines staff stepped in.

Read the whole story here. Bring back L'empereur.

Autumn comes in Provence

2010-09-24T09:43:34+01:00

It's a sad day when the pool is shut down. We remember well the balmy days of summer, lazing for hours by the pool, watching the children make up games to play in the water, waiting for the next meal or - on a bad day - for a bank of clouds to hide the sun towards the end of the day.

Now, Pierre has been, removed the pump, installed the cover and locked up. When we come back, the poolside will be strewn with fallen olives, autumnal debris and the algae will have settled in the still waters.

Sic transit gloria Provenciae.

Keira Knightly buys Provence property

2010-08-17T22:37:33+01:00

Keira Knightley has spent £1.5million on a secluded estate in Provence. Insiders say Knightley has bought the retreat, a stone's throw from Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis' home, so she has place to recharge her batteries.

"The house is incredibly private, small and cozy and they intend to keep it that way," a source explained.

"Keira is thrilled with the change of scenery and loves the feeling that she'll always have this place to retreat to when she needs to recharge her batteries. Keira is getting tired of life in London, particularly the pollution and congestion, and, although it's essential that she and Rupert both live in London for their acting work, Keira is insisting on spending as much time as possible in France."

Quite right, Keira. See you on the beach?

Topless in Provence face fines

2010-08-17T22:23:56+01:00

British tourists who go topless in France this summer risk being fined as cities bring in regulations designed to protect public decency. Perpignan, near the Spanish border in the Pyrénées-Orientales department, has become the latest city to introduce new regulations to ban bare chests.

Such sanctions are not uncommon in seaside resorts – Cote D’Azur locations such as Cannes and St Tropez have long enforced a ban on shirtless men and women wearing bikinis, if they are walking around the town rather than lying on the beach.

“This is one of the key principles of public life, which has been a little forgotten,” commented Jean-Marc Pujol, the city’s mayor. “This is about education. People have the freedom to wear what they want, but respect for others is also important.”

L'Occitane Provence garden at Chelsea Flower Show

2010-05-25T22:18:35+01:00

L'Occitane has sponsored a Provencal garden at the Chelsea Flower Show - I know because Julie told me on Facebook. The landscape of Provence is the inspiration for The L’Occitane Garden, which recaptures Olivier Baussan’s vision when he set up the natural beauty company over 30 years ago.

The garden features key plant species that are found in the warm, sunny climes of the South of France and the Mediterranean, including structurally appealing olive and almond trees and iconic lavender cultivars. The planting within this wild terrain is framed by the innovative use of original Provençal props, a water irrigation feature and a new rock-scape material being introduced at Chelsea this year."

You can see the lowdown on L'Occitane's website.

Provence by the Rhone

2010-05-22T17:41:31+01:00

Interesting way of discovering Provence - by boat. A boutique floating hotel will take you up and down and let you stop off along the way.

The Orient Express owns a "luxury barge" called the Napoleon which offers this plus fine dining. Here's a review:

"Back at the riverside, we climb back onboard our péniche-hôtel Napoléon, a floating boutique hotel that is home for the next few days as we cruise the Rhône from Arles to Lyon, the river's furthest navigable point. This luxury barge, which sleeps 12 and has a crew of six, is the perfect base from which to explore Provence and the Rhône valley as it combines cruising with shore excursions to the region's unmissable sights....with its comforts and charming staff, the Napoléon is a floating testament to fine living, relaxation and indulgence"

Provence vineyards and the expat dream

2010-05-14T17:51:27+01:00

I am always troubled by articles about Provence that read like "the gentle stream of expats settling in Provence has, over the past decade, become a steady river." I imagine hordes of Brits descending and eating chips, sorry, frites.

But this interesting piece in the Telegraph is more about folk who've bought up vineyards in Provence and actually make quiet decent wine: "So, if you feel an incredible tug for Provence, a heart-achingly beautiful restored bastide, with eight hectares of vines and 1,200 olive trees, is for sale not very far away."

I had no idea that Chateau de Berne was owned by a man who started with a Fulham vegetable shop, and after 20 years of success in a variety of pharmaceutical-based businesses, from his then base in Monaco decided to buy his own vineyard. It's now owned by the man from Regus, who has extended the facilities and is now marketing Berne Viognier wine in square bottles (weird, huh?) . I have tasted the wine and it's good (to quote Hemingway).

Better get saving then...

Provence Guide: new online travel guide

2010-05-10T14:07:10+01:00

We're very pleased to be included in a new guide for travellers heading to Provence. It's a terribly grand travel information website and Rebecca has put together some good material on places to go and visit. It's gratifying to be singled out. The guest Provence expert - Anthony Peregrine - has some good tips and jolly editorial: "And there are aspects of Britain I miss – Sandwich Spread, Felicity Kendall, Preston North End and, not least, the newspapers. No paper in France has the variety, depth, wit and colour of the Sunday Times or Daily Telegraph, to pluck two examples at random"

Writes Rebecca: "Go-provence.com is a site full of travel tips and practical information from someone who has the experience and knowledge of visiting Provence."

When we went to Nice for the first time under our own steam, we had to take pot luck on hotels, but Rebecca has put together a cribsheet of hotels in Nice. "The best have warmth, charm and perhaps a garden, instead of marble, gold-leaf, and deference," says Anthony.