Pymble Gardening

Sandstone pathways

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Fri, 3 Oct 2014 06:50:00 -0700

Here is an example of a pathway we just compleated in Pymble.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

How to Grow Chervil

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Tue, 12 Nov 2013 18:42:00 -0800

How to Grow Chervil

Grown mainly for its bright green, feathery leaves, chervil is a hardy biennial herb, normally grown as an annual.

The plant looks rather like parsley and its fresh leaves are used in much the same way – it has a delicate, sweet anise flavour with a hint of parsley. A native of southeastern Europe and western Asia, it grows to 30–45 cm tall and bears clusters of white flowers in midsummer. Successional sowing and growing indoors in winter will give you a year-round supply.

Planning the crop

Early- and late-sown plants will thrive in full sun, but those grown in summer benefit from partial shade in hot, dry areas. The herb will do well in any soil provided the drainage is good.

How much to grow- The best way to grow chervil is as a short-term crop, making four to six sowings at intervals throughout the year and using only tender young leaves. In this way, you’ll have plenty of leaves if you grow five or six plants at any one time. Chervil will grow well in pots and window boxes.

Growing tips

Sow the seeds 5 mm deep in an open seedbed at any time between spring and late summer. Allow 30 cm between rows if you are sowing more than one row, and thin the seedlings to about 30 cm spacings. Water the plants in dry weather and remove flowering stems as soon as they appear. This will not only encourage the growth of young, tender leaves for a longer period, it will also prevent self-sown seedlings from sprouting like weeds in the surrounding soil. However, if you want to collect seeds for later use, let one of the heads mature and then gather the ripe seeds before they fall.

Herbs for winter- Chervil can be grown outdoors in most districts during winter. Alternatively, plant two or three seeds in a 15 cm pot filled with seed compost. Remove all but the strongest seedling and grow it on the kitchen windowsill for a supply of fresh leaves throughout winter.

Pests and diseases

Chervil is usually trouble-free.

Harvesting and storing

Cut or pick the leaves six to eight weeks after sowing. The leaves are too tender for drying but can be preserved by freezing.

From: Grow Your Own Fruit & Vegetables The Easy Way

Call us today 1300882787

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Echium or pride of Madira

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 30 Sep 2013 17:29:00 -0700

Perennial
Light: Full Sun
Height: 5 feet to 8 feet
Width: 5 feet to 6 feet
Bloom Color: Blue
Leaf Color: Green, Silvery
Special Features: All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Not North American native
Shape: Rounded
Fertilizer: Sea sol Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food
Want to know where Pride of Madeira will thrive in your house or garden? A Plant Sensor will give you a plant's-eye view of your environment to measure soil, sunlight, temperature and humidity.

Plant Care

Planting:
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Plant Growth:
Echium grows best with full sun, and thrives in areas with hot summers. Species are drought tolerant, but cannot withstand temperatures below 30ºF. Where hardy, grow Echium in an annual, mixed, or herbaceous border. They also make good container plants. Elsewhere, raise Echium indoors.

Blooming:
Flowers are borne from spring to summer. They attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Soil that is too rich will hinder flower formation.
Soil and Irrigation:
Outdoors, Echium does well with poor, dry soils. For indoor plants, use a standard soil-based potting mix. Water freely during the growing season; water sparingly in winter.

Pruning:
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.
Pests:
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Echium or pride of Madira

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 29 Sep 2013 17:29:00 -0700

Perennial
Light: Full Sun
Height: 5 feet to 8 feet
Width: 5 feet to 6 feet
Zones: 10a to 11b
Bloom Color: Blue
Leaf Color: Green, Silvery
Special Features: All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Not North American native
Shape: Rounded
Fertilizer: Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food
Want to know where Pride of Madeira will thrive in your house or garden? The EasyBloom Plant Sensor will give you a plant's-eye view of your environment to measure soil, sunlight, temperature and humidity.

Plant Care

Planting:
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Plant Growth:
Echium grows best with full sun, and thrives in areas with hot summers. Species are drought tolerant, but cannot withstand temperatures below 30ºF. Where hardy, grow Echium in an annual, mixed, or herbaceous border. They also make good container plants. Elsewhere, raise Echium indoors.

Blooming:
Flowers are borne from spring to summer. They attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Soil that is too rich will hinder flower formation.
Soil and Irrigation:
Outdoors, Echium does well with poor, dry soils. For indoor plants, use a standard soil-based potting mix. Water freely during the growing season; water sparingly in winter.

Pruning:
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.
Pests:
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Plants And Potassium

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 28 Sep 2013 14:29:00 -0700

Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants

The effects of potassium on plants is well known in that it improves how well a plant grows and produces but exactly why and how is not known. As a gardener, you do not need to know the why and how in order to be hurt by a potassium deficiency in plants. Keep reading to learn more about how potassium affects the plants in your garden and how to correct a potassium deficiency.

Effects Of Potassium On Plants

Potassium is important to plant growth and development. Potassium helps:
Plants grow faster
Use water better and be more drought resistant
Fight off disease
Resist pests
Grow stronger
Produce more crops
With all plants, potassium assists all functions within the plant. When a plant has enough potassium, it will simply be a better overall plant.
Signs Of Potassium Deficiency In Plants
Potassium deficiency in plants will cause a plant to perform more poorly overall than it should. Because of this reason, it can be difficult to see specific signs of potassium deficiency in plants.
When severe potassium deficiency happens, you may be able to see some signs in the leaves. The leaves, especially older leaves, may have brown spots, yellow edges, yellow veins or brown veins.

What Is In Potassium Fertiliser

Potassium fertilizer is sometimes called potash fertilizer. This is because potassium fertilizers often contain a substance called potash. Potash is a naturally occurring substance that occurs when wood is burned away or can be found in mines and the ocean.
While potash is technically a naturally occurring substance, only certain kinds of potassium fertilizers containing potash are considered organic.
Some sources refer to high potassium fertilizer. This is simply a fertilizer that is exclusively potassium or has a high K value.d

If you wish to add potassium to your soil at home, you can do so in several ways without having to use potash or other commercial potassium fertilizer. Compost made primarily from food byproducts is an excellent source of potassium. In particular, banana peels are very high in potassium.
Wood ash can also be used, but make sure that you apply wood ash only lightly as too much can burn your plants.

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.
Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Cankers On Trees

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:59:00 -0700

How To Treat Cankers
You may have noticed some unsightly cankerous looking wounds in your tree. What are tree cankers and what causes them, and how do you treat cankers in a tree once you see them? Continue reading to learn more about the types of canker in trees and how to go about preventing tree cankers.
What Are Tree Cankers?
Cankers on trees appear as isolated dead areas on the bark, stems, branches or twigs. Cankers may appear as discolored areas or depressed places on the bark.
A fungus that enters the tree and grows between the bark and the wood killing the bark generally causes cankers.
However, cankers can also be caused by damage from weed eaters, lawnmowers, chemicals, insects or environmental conditions.
The canker itself makes the tree highly vulnerable to bacteria, fungus and insects. Young fruit trees have an especially difficult time recovering from cankers. Established shade trees may weaken and become susceptible to wind damage.
The healthier the tree is, the more likely it is to ward off serious damage from a canker disease. Trees that are weakened by temperature, drought, poor nutrition or other present diseases are much more susceptible to canker diseases. Canker diseases are more common with hardwood trees than on conifers.
Type of Cankers in Trees can Vary
Depending on the region where you live, different cankers on trees are found. Some of the more common types of canker in trees include:
Thyronectria canker is caused by a fungus and is most common on the honey locust tree.
Nectria canker tends to attack deciduous shade trees, crabapples and pears.
Cytospora canker is found most often in fruit trees, hardwood forest trees and shrubs, as well as over 70 species of conifers.
Hypoxylon canker is seen in different species of oak including red and white.
How Do You Treat Cankers in a Tree Effectively?
So how do you treat cankers in a tree? Preventing tree cankers is the best method of protection. It is best to plant native or well-adapted species for your growing region. These tree species will suffer less stress and adapt well to the soil type, sun exposure and overall environmental conditions in your area.
The avoidance of stress is the best and most effective protection against canker diseases. Proper tree care including watering, feeding, mulching and pruning will help to keep trees as healthy as possible.
Once a tree has canker, it is essential to remove as much of the canker fungi as possible from the tree to avoid infection and spread. Prune only during dry weather and make cuts with a sterilized cutting tool at least 4 inches below the edge of the canker on trees.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

What is Humus

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Fri, 13 Sep 2013 20:49:00 -0700

What is Humus?

The etymological root of the word “humus” is strongly linked to the word “human” with both words meaning “of and for the earth”. The biblical “dust to dust” concept is about the simple reality that we came from humus and it is to humus that we all return. Both words are also linked to the word “humility” and ironically it is our lack of humility, our arrogant attempts to master Earth that may well prove our downfall.

Humus is the chocolate brown, sweet smelling substance that drives healthy, productive soils

Humus is created by soil biology but also serves as the living quarters for this vital workforce.

Humus is the soil glue without which our rivers run brown and dust storms strip our thin veil of precious top soil. Humus provides the single most efficient storage of water, minerals and carbon and it is this trio that will most impact soil health, human health and planetary health in the coming years. The reclamation of humus is the shape of the future or we may not have much of one.

Recent findings are so grim and the trends so alarming, I often found myself fighting back the tears. One thing became increasingly clear. If we do not act urgently our world will be a very different place. Our current inaction represents the greatest example of collective denial in the history of mankind.

The new studies often refer to “irreversibility” and the only debate seems to relate to whether the estimated temperature increases peak out at 3, 4 or 5 degrees. There is little mention of the fact that a 5.5 degree increase in global temperatures is considered to be beyond human adaptability.

You may be thinking, “Big deal! I won’t need a singlet in winter”, but it’s a bit more serious than that. We are currently witnessing the climatic disruption linked to a rise of just one degree and the chaos does not simply double at two degrees, it is exponential.

Here in Australia we have just experienced the hottest January in recorded history and across the Tasman in New Zealand they are suffering the worst drought in their history. England has just experienced their coldest March in history and the list goes on. However, there is more bad news. These extremes in climate are actually less serious than the more pressing issue of ocean acidification from excess CO2.

The oceans have absorbed almost 50% of the man-made CO2 produced since the industrial revolution and we should be thankful for this planetary, self-balancing act. However, the resulting 30% increase in acidity threatens ocean life dependent on calcium to build their outer shell.

This includes corals, shellfish and algae. 500 million people are directly reliant on coral reefs for their food. Algae and krill are the building blocks for ocean life as we know it and phytoplankton produce over 50% of the planet’s oxygen. The impact is already measurable but will become serious in just 20 years. It doesn’t get much more serious than this and action must replace apathy.

It has become increasingly obvious that emission reductions will not stem the tide. If we were to reduce emissions by 100% tomorrow morning, then in 200 years time, the CO2 in the atmosphere will drop down to 1975 levels, which is still too high. The oceans continue to heat and acidify and not many experts will agree that we have 200 years to play with. Are we too late and are now locked into a planetary calamity? No we are not! The sense of despair that can sponsor the shutdown of a personal action-based response is not necessary. There is a solution that can save the day and I would like to think that some of you may soon feel motivated to share this message.

The Message

There has only ever been the same number of carbon molecules on the planet and they alternate between the soil, the biomass and the atmosphere as part of the carbon cycle. Currently a great deal of what was once in the soil is now in the atmosphere. In fact we have lost two thirds of our humus to the atmosphere following two centuries of extractive agriculture. This represents 476 gigatonnes of CO2 that is now stored in the atmosphere where it thickens the greenhouse blanket, traps the heat and sponsors climate extremes. Just for a sense of perspective – all of mankind’s other activities since 1860 have released a total of just 250 gigatonnes of CO2. We desperately need to redistribute atmospheric CO2 back into the soil as humus and everyone can contribute.

Here’s how it is done.

Planet Saving Strategies

We buy our food from those that practise regenerative farming. i.e. organic or biological growers – the rise and rise of farmers’ markets supports this kind of discretion.

We pay carbon credits to primary producers for increases in soil humus. We need to motivate rapid action in a sector that is often already reeling from the economic impact of climate extremes.

Composting becomes the mantra for everyone including farmers, home gardeners, Councils and Governments. Councils, for example, could collect food scraps and plant matter separately to avoid the methane emission linked to anaerobic decay in rubbish tips.

These scraps are a good protein base for composting green waste and biosolids. Vermi-composting (utilising earthworms) is the ultimate composting technology as it produces an end-product that is twenty times more effective than any other compost option. Large scale vermicomposting of city wastes has been mastered by a New Zealand company in Auckland and these specialists are prepared to share their hard won technology with any council anywhere.

Of course, consumers must recognise the importance of these critically important initiatives and support them by purchasing this compost as their primary soil fertility tool.

We inoculate our soils with the organisms that build stable humus in the soil, with a particular emphasis upon beneficial fungi. Mycorrhizal fungi are directly responsible for 30% of the humus in the soil and their numbers are just 10% of what they were before the advent of extractive agriculture.

These creatures burrow into the plant root and provide a massive attachment of fine filaments that represents aten-fold increase in root surface area. This fungal root extension scavenges difficult-to-access minerals, retains moisture and nutrients and produces a range of beneficial biochemicals to boost the immune system of its host.

Mycorrhizal fungi can be reintroduced to our soils for as little as ten dollars per hectare and soil, plant, animal, human and planetary health are improved as a result. Other free living cellulose digesting fungi have also been seriously depleted and they can be easily and inexpensively brewed (multiplied) to repopulate biologically depleted soils.

We legislate to protect the organisms that will save the day. Anything that compromises the humus-building performance of these key organisms must be restricted. This includes some farm chemicals, over cultivation and faulty grazing practices.

Dr Margaret Roper from the CSIRO in Perth has shown that Paraquat and Atrazine seriously impact humus building organisms. Nematicides are similarly destructive and the world’s most widely used farm chemical, glyphosate, has recently been shown to be a serious microbicide.

The burning of crop residues should be immediately banned. Not only are we destroying the soil food that could become humus and sustenance for precious soil biology but we are directly contributing large amounts of CO2 to the atmosphere. Particulation, where ash rises from the flames and is deposited elsewhere by the breeze, is also a form of demineralisation, as this ash effectively contains the minerals that grew the crop.

We include a carbon source with every nitrogen-based fertiliser to buffer the microbial damage, reduce emissions of nitrous oxide and to prevent nitrogen stimulated bacteria from consuming humus to satisfy their tight C:N ratio of 5:1. Mismanagement of nitrogen is actually a major root cause of humus loss, as the bacteria, when fed excess nitrogen, seek out carbon to balance out this tight ratio (and humus is lost in the process).

Humates extracted from brown coal become indispensable humus-building tools for everyone. Humic acid promotes cellulose digesting fungi while fulvic acid promotes beneficial bacteria. These are accessible, inexpensive, high carbon inputs which also buffer salt fertilisers and magnify mineral uptake. It is ironic that the brown coal, that is the biggest contributor of CO2 to the atmosphere (via coal-fired power stations) can be of so much more value if it is used to boost soil fertility.

We direct our superannuation/pension funds to invest in enterprises involved in developing renewable energy rather than those adding to the problem. The relatively new concept of a carbon budget is rapidly gaining acceptance around the globe.

Here we recognise that 80% of the known carbon reserves (coal and oil) must stay in the ground if we are to have a viable future. Why then are just 2% of total pension funds currently supporting renewable enterprises, while 55% of our money supports the carbon polluting enterprises? Why would we be so actively funding companies seeking to discover more coal, oil and gas when most of what we have already found must stay locked within the ground. This is our money and our future and we should all pressure for a redirection of these funds.

Well funded human initiative is the key to success here and there are massive amounts of money available that could be directed to planet saving enterprises (assuming cash-strapped governments don’t plunder this resource beforehand).

Humus Offers More than Climate Change Reversal

Humus determines profitability – Several years ago The National Bank in Australia conducted a comprehensive study to ascertain exactly what determines profitability in farming. In an attempt to better understand why so many rural loans were failing, they discovered that the single most important factor in farming success was organic matter (humus).They actually priced the farms in their large study based upon relative humus levels. A variation of just 0.15% organic matter attracted a substantial increase in the proposed valuation of the farm land involved.

Humus saves water – 74% of the planet is covered by water but only 3% of that is fresh. Most of that fresh water is tied up in ice and glaciers and only 0.3% is in liquid form. 90% of that fresh water is used for irrigation. Water is a precious resource for which wars will be fought in the future. Large dams are our preferred water storage strategy at present but they are notoriously inefficient.

Evaporation accounts for massive losses; there is often a large carbon footprint involved in pumping the water around the countryside and more energy involved in the actual irrigation process on-farm. A percentage of water applied as overhead irrigation accounts for more evaporation, and flood irrigation is even less efficient. Humus holds its own weight in water and it is the obvious way to store and deliver water. There is no evaporation beneath the ground and there is also no delivery energy involved. The plant roots simply take water from the humus as required.

A 1% increase in organic matter (humus) in your soil means that soil can now hold 170,000 litres per hectare of water it could not previously hold. That is 17 litres of extra water per square meter. Humus offers a double benefit here because it is the home base for bacteria which produce a biofilm that absorbs and stores additional moisture. This sticky exudate stores water in much the same fashion as commercial water crystals.

Humus improves the nutritional value of our food – Humus stores more than water. It is also the primary vehicle for mineral storage and delivery. Humus features both negative and positive charged sites which can attract and hold all minerals, preventing them from leaching.

There is no other storage facility in the soil with this capacity. The loss of humus from our soils spells the loss of mineral storage and it also impacts mineral delivery. Science is increasingly realising that every mineral has a microbe behind it. Microbes are the bridge between the soil and the plant and humus is the living quarters for these beneficial organisms.

Many studies have chronicled the declining nutrition in our food and there is a direct link to the declining humus levels in our soils. Nutritionists contend that our food now contains just 20%of the nutrition found in the food consumed by our grandparents when they were children. We suffer a plague of degenerative illness and very often the root cause can be linked to nutrition. We are what we eat and what we eat comes from soils that are a shadow of their former selves.

Humus reduces chemical contamination of our food – This is a major health issue as chemical safety trials did not factor in the largely unresearched, cocktail effect or the phenomenon of bio-accumulation. Studies with rodents may have determined minimum residue limits of farm chemicals on our food but there was no consideration of how the body manages these contaminants.

In many cases our detox systems are not equipped to process man-made chemicals and they are shunted off to the fat cells to keep them away from key organs. Here they accumulate and can pose health problems. When considering strategies to reduce our reliance upon farm chemicals it is a worthwhile exercise to consider the root cause of pest pressure in plants.

A fungal disease does not reflect a deficiency of a fungicide. Disease is a response to compromised plant immunity based upon a lack of key supportive minerals or a lack of the bio-chemicals produced by microorganisms to enhance the resilience of their hosts. It is very much a case of “I will look after you if you look after me” and there is a direct parallel to our relationship with our own gut biology. At the soil/plant interface, the plant feeds glucose to the soil microbes in return for delivery of immune-enhancing minerals and biochemicals. However, the protection is even more profound than this. Many of the beneficial organisms surrounding the roots can also predate upon or antagonise disease organisms. The good guys literally eat our enemies. Humus, as the home base for minerals and microbes, is the key to enhanced pest resistance and less need for farm chemicals. The higher the humus, the less the chemical contamination of our food and the greater our health.

Humus cleanses soil contaminants and prevents nitrate leaching – Nitrates are a proven carcinogen and our ground water is seriously contaminated with this byproduct of nitrogen fertilisers. Humus is the only storage system in the soil for nitrate nitrogen. The loss of 2/3 of our humus means we have much less capacity to prevent nitrates from leaching and hence contamination of waterways is currently inevitable. Humus also serves as a carbon filter isolating heavy metals and farm chemicals that might otherwise enter our food chain.

Humus sponsors soil structure improvements – The bacteria living in humus constantly release a sticky, alkaline substance that binds together soil particles to form tiny aggregates. Fungi then bind these particles into larger aggregates to form crumb structure, the most desirable of all soil conditions. When crumb structure is present, plant roots can expand readily and as earthworms and beneficial nematodes can move unimpeded in these soils, their numbers increase.

These soils also facilitate gas exchange,where oxygen moves freely into the soil to satisfy the requirements of plant roots and the organisms surrounding those roots. When the roots and microbes “breathe out”, the resulting CO2 can also move freely upward where it is captured by the tiny breathing pores on the underside of the plant leaf called stomates. The capacity of a soil to “breathe” in this fashion determines the amount of CO2 for photosynthesis and, of course, photosynthesis, in turn, governs production and impacts resilience.

In Conclusion

Humus is literally the lifeblood of this planet and we have used and abused this magical substance to the point that our future viability is at stake. When we build humus in the soil, we reclaim carbon from the atmosphere, we improve plant, soil and animal health, we manage precious water more effectively and we lift the vitality and resilience of every last one of us. We need to refer back to the ancient wisdom where the words “humus” and “human” mean “of and for the earth” and we need to rediscover the humility to work with nature rather than striving for mastery. We can all contribute; lobby your Councils, pressure your super fund, compost, compost, compost and buy your food from those doing the right thing. We can all help save the world with humus.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Pruning citrus trees sydney

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 4 Aug 2013 21:52:00 -0700

Fertilising and Pruning

Fertilising

Citrus are high feeders and love fertiliser. In many books you will read, fertilise your citrus twice a year. We have a different opinion. “A little bit - often” is our philosophy. Therefore feed your citrus at least four times per year. Timing is not critical, if you haven’t feed your tree for a while, start now. There are many different commercial citrus fertilisers on the market. We generally don’t recommend these fertilisers as their instructions are often difficult to comprehend,

eg. X kilograms per age of tree.

There is nothing quite like, good old fashioned blood and bone or well rotted chicken manure or cow manure or ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’. Any of these are fine and it’s a good idea to alternate between them. Water your tree well; remove any mulch from around the tree. Spread the fertiliser evenly around the soil underneath the

canopy, but not directly against the trunk. The amount varies, depending on which fertiliser you choose. Don’t be afraid, you can use up to half a bucket, per tree of organic fertiliser. Generally the organic fertilisers are less harmful if you accidentally overfeed. When all else fails, read the instructions on the bag. There is no need to cultivate the fertiliser into the soil as this will only cause damage to the surface roots. Water in well and then replace the mulch.

Citrus in pots also require regular feeding. Fertilise at least four times per year. Either ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’ is great; put a light covering over the entire surface of the pot. If these products are a little too smelly, you can use ‘Osmocote’ or ‘Greenjacket’ slow release fertilisers.

Pruning

Citrus unlike many other fruit trees don’t require annual pruning to aid in fruit production. They can be happily left for

many years unpruned and will still produce an abundance of fruit.

Alternatively, citrus can be pruned into any shape that is desired. Citrus are often trained and pruned into Standards, for a formal topiary effect. Planting citrus close together and regular pruning can form a lovely dense fruiting hedge. Citrus are very adaptable and can be trained and pruned into many shapes only limited by your imagination.

Australian Cumquat pruned as a Standard

Espaliered Citrus are becoming very trendy for the smaller gardens or balconies. An espalier is when the citrus is pruned and shaped flat against a wall or lattice. All varieties of citrus are suitable and it is simply a case of tying the new growth back against the wall, fence or lattice and pruning off, any forward growth that can’t be tied back, creating a flat two dimensional plant. This saves space, creates a beautiful green wall and the citrus still produce an abundance of fruit.

Kaffir Lime trained as an espalier

Old, neglected, citrus can be resurrected by a heavy rejuvenation prune. If the tree is old and ugly and hasn’t fruited well for years attack it with a chain saw, taking it right back to the main fork. This sounds drastic, but the tree was useless as it was, so you have nothing to lose. As it starts to re shoot, fertilise well and water regularly. Most often the tree with comeback better than ever and continue producing fruit for many more years.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Growing tulips

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 20 Jan 2013 10:32:00 -0800

Growing tulips.In the past it was thought that growing tulips in Australia was confined to the cooler areas, Tasmania and the Highlands and Foothills of Victoria, Southern New South Wales and South Australia. However many tulips will grow in much warmer climates, and some do not require the winter chill factor of others. Single Late Tulips and Species Tulips worth growing in warmer areas.

Tulips make excellent cut flowers ( a little sugar in the water will make blooms last longer). Chilling tulip bulbs for approx 7 weeks will ensure long flower stems, so buy them in March, place them in the refrigerator, not the freezer, and plant in May. A soil rich in humus is best for growing most tulip bulbs, so dig in well rotted manure.

Tulip seasonTulips will bloom at different times of the season depending on what type of tulip you are growing. Generally speaking species tulips bloom first, then Parrot Tulips, Fringed tulips, Darwin Hybrids and Double tulips. Late in the season are the Single Late Tulips Planting Tulip BulbsBuy bulbs in autumn, Tulips are usually planted in early Autumn, after the last hot days of summer.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Managing camellias

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sun, 20 Jan 2013 09:30:00 -0800

Camellias - cultivation
These cultural notes are intended as a guide only.
soil
Provide a rich, light loam well supplied with humus. The necessity for adequate humus is stressed. The average Sydney soil is rather deficient in this very important ingredient. (ph 5.0 to 6.0)
Friable but spent garden soil should be enriched by mixing in about a third of its bulk of compost free from lime. Heavy clay soil can be broken down by the addition of gypsum and organic matter, and sandy soil should be improved by the addition of generous quantities of humus.
planting
Deep planting will set back the surface-rooting Camellia and must be avoided. This is a major cause of unhealthy plants and promotes root rot.
Dig the planting hole twice as large as the root ball and to the depth of the pot or bag.
Improve the soil with compost and/or aged cow manure.
Soak plant before removing it from the container.
Firm down soil at base of planting hole before placing plant on top. This ensures the plant does not sink after planting.
Ease out any roots that are starting to circle the pot.
Ensure top of the potted plant's soil is level with existing soil, if not the plant will be too deeply planted and will need to be lifted out and more soil added to the base of the hole.
Mulch to about 2.5cm with leaf mulch or cow manure and water well.
You may wish to construct a small collar around the root ball so water is able to be held and allowed to soak in slowly during the plant's settling in period.
Extra care, especially with watering, is required if planting during the hotter months.
Staking may be necessary for the first twelve months if new growth is very vigorous or the plant is placed in a windy spot. Don't forget to remove ties or ringbarking will occur.
watering
Camellias should be moist at all times - but caution should be taken against their being WET at all times. Water well and deeply as often as is dictated by the local weather conditions. Too much water, too often will cut off oxygen around the root zone and encourage root rot (which may not show up until the following summer) and the consequent death of the plant.
During flowering, heavily budded trees should be soaked once a week, preferably by watering at the base. Smaller plants and plants in tubs will require relatively little water during this colder period. Spring and summer warering should be increased to promote healthy new growth. A watering system incorporating micro sprays is a worthwhile investment in newly planted areas.
Watering requirements vary greatly from area to area depending on weather patterns, soil structure and microclimates so be guided by commonsense and knowledge of your local area.
fertilising
Fertilising should begin with the first signs of new growth, even though the plant may still be blooming. Feed regularly during the growing season; September, December and February with a liquid fertiliser such as Aquasol. It is important to water ground well before and after applying fertiliser.
Apply Osmocote Plus as a six month slow release fertiliser in Spring and Autumn. Care should be taken to not overfeed as this can considerably impede the plant's development. Specially formulated Camellia and Azalea Food is suitable for use on established specimens: eight years and older (avoid using on potted specimens). Top dressing with Blood and Bone and/or good quality milled cow manure is also beneficial. For potted specimens, a combination of Aquasol and Osmocote Plus as discussed above is recommended. Allow newly planted plants a few weeks to settle in before commencing feeding programme.
pests and disease
Camellias are very disease and insect resistant plants and if proper cultural care is taken, they may never need you to do more than feed and water them. Some plants may be attacked by scale or mites. These pests can be a threat as they suck the plant juices and interfere with normal growth patterns. Enquire at your local nursery before spraying and always take some leaves with you.
Always be sure of the pest or disease before spraying with an insecticide or fungicide.
Always read and follow safety directions on any product used where spraying is necessary.
Spraying is best carried out in the cool of the morning.
flower balling
Flowers which fail to open or buds which fall off prematurely can be the result of a number of problems:
Too many buds were set and the bush requires manual disbudding.
Too much sun for the particular variety.
Older variety with a natural tendency to ball.
Formal doubles may ball if salt laden.
Depending upon the problem, one needs to either move plant, improve cultural practices or replace with a more suitable variety.
pruning
Pruning your camellias from a young age is we, believe, of great importance to their successful cultivation. Pruning to allow air movement through the plant and to retain an open, branching framework will result in more manageable, healthier specimens, which will reward the grower year after year.
To begin, try to imagine the shape in which you would like your camellia to develop and be guided by this when determining where and how much to prune. In many cases, pruning will be limited to removing any dead or diseased wood, growth emanating from within the framework and pruning the outer growth to the desired shape by cutting back to a growth bud/shoot that will enhance the plant's shape.
The main annual pruning should be carried out before the new spring growth has started (late winter, early spring). Mature Camellias, including reticulatas can be heavily pruned; even reduced to a bare frame. Pruning too late may result in reduced blooms the following flowering season as the blooms appear on the previous year's spring growth.
When hedging Camellia sasanqua, tip pruning all over each specimen will encourage the bushy growth required. As they grow together, setting up string lines as a guide will result in a professional job. Immediately after pruning it is important to ensure that your plants are continually kept evenly moise and fed with a combination of a complete liquid fertiliser and a slow release to maximise regrowth (refer feeding section).
pots
Some varieties of Camellia make wonderful pot specimens if some simple guidelines are followed:
Never overpot. Pot up into pots only 5cm larger in diameter each time you repot.
Use top quality potting mix for potting.
Consider the position carefully before choosing (i.e. sunny/shady/windy).
Use Aquasol and Osmocote Plus for fertilising.
Do not let dry out completely.
Do not let pot sit in a saucer of water.
These cultural notes are intended as a guide only.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Natural landscaping

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Wed, 16 May 2012 09:25:00 -0700

The theory is, natural landscaping is adapted to the climate, geography and hydrology and should require no pesticides, fertilizers and watering to maintain, given that native plants have adapted and evolved to local conditions over thousands of years. However, these applications may be necessary for some preventative care of trees and other vegetation. Native plants suit today's interest in "low-maintenance" gardening and landscaping, with many species vigorous and hardy and able to survive winter cold and summer heat. Once established, they can flourish without irrigation or fertilization, and are resistant to most pests and diseases. Many municipalities have quickly recognized the benefits of natural landscaping due to municipal budget constraints and reductions and the general public is now benefiting from the implementation of natural landscaping techniques to save water and create more personal time. Bush regeneration shares many similarities, though it targets preexisting patches of (often heavily degraded) original bushland and has removal of weeds as a high (sometimes higher) priority than replanting of native plants. Native plants provide suitable habitat for native species of butterflies, birds, and other wildlife. They provide more variety in gardens by offering myriad alternatives to the over-planted cultivars and aliens. These plants have co-evolved with animals, fungi and microbes, to form a complex network of relationships. They are the foundation of their native ecosystems, or natural communities

Potassium

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 02:35:00 -0700

It is well-known that Australian soils are low in phosphorus. What is not so well-known is that many of our soils are also low in potassium. As a result, the animal manures that we increasingly use on our gardens in place of chemical fertilisers are also low in potassium. This has led to an increase in the incidence of plant diseases. Although potash could never be described as a fungicide, its correct use can certainly minimise diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew. These appear most visibly on the leaves and fruit of affected plants, but can affect any part.

Potassium takes part in more than 40 enzyme actions which help control many plant functions. Of potassium's multiple roles within the plant, one important one is its work in building cellulose, a component of plant cell walls.
If conditions are suitable, a fungus spore will germinate after landing on a host plant and form a tiny root system known as a haustoria. This produces an organic chemical, designed to break down the cellulose barrier of the cell wall and allow the fungus to reach the sap stream, upon which it feeds. If the cell wall is thin, this is achieved with relative ease and the fungus flourishes while the host plant suffers. If the cell wall is thick, the fungal spore is unable to penetrate the cell wall and it eventually dies before it can reach the life-giving sap of the host plant.

When using organic fertilisers, look at the analysis on the back of the bag - if it contains less than 3% potassium, you should add some to it. About 10% sulphate of potash will usually do the trick. Potash can be applied pure, at a rate of 15g per square metre, for a quick fix.

For plants that are particularly susceptible to disease, such as roses, it's a good idea to apply about 150g of sulphate of potash to each bush at 3-4 monthly intervals.

Sulphate of potash is known to improve the quality and the colour of flowers, probably because of the increased enzyme activity. It also enhances the formation of proteins and sugars, probably because it influences photosynthesis, the process by which these sugars are made.

In frost-prone areas, plants treated with potash are better able to withstand the frost because of the higher cellulose content in the cell walls. Plants with slender stems and large flower heads such as Iceland poppies and Gerberas will hold their heads erect if adequate levels of potash are used.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

How To Make Humus Rich Soil

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Tue, 2 Aug 2011 17:02:00 -0700

With the carbon tax about to be implemented it occurred to me that most local Councils will be looking at ways to limit what they bring back to there waste management facilities. So as the tax increase inevetably comes here is a way to limit the waste you have removed from your property.

#1. MAKE SPACE

Find a place in your garden bed where you can throw a large amount of food scraps, feces, cardboard and other compostables.

#Alternatively# you may also use a metal garbage bin or some for of compost container if that floats your boat more.

#2. MAKE MATTER

This is probably the easiest part of this whole process.

You will want to put anything and everything into your compost pile. When you mow the lawn, but the trimmings into your pile and make sure to mix them so lots of air gets involved. Things that can go into your compost pile:

*Egg shells
*Cardboard
*Paper
*Aged Meat

*Moldy Bread
*Old Potatoes
*Vegetables Scraps
*Fruit Scraps

*Sticks/twigs
*Nuts
*Sand
*Clay

*Tree Leaves
   *Finely cut portions of old clothing
   *Paper plates

DO NOT add:

*Metals
*Aluminum
*Plastics
*Anything with chemicals or pesticides on it

*Colloidal Silver
*Pet Manure
*Branches
*Old Organic Juicesnt to it, don’t feed it to your plants. Other than the pet manure of course, that will break down into nutrients that are very beneficial to the plant and soil.

A Word of Caution:

Adding your own rear end recyclings can be a risk. Huma-nure (human manure), is so far one of the most infectious and toxic sources on the plant. Mostly because of what we eat, the kind of drugs we take or the things we breath in. If you are a health nut and don’t take any medications, your huma-nure is probably great for the garden and it will save you on the water and sewer bill to do this. IF you take any pharmaceutical substances, drink to much alcohol, eat junk food/non organic food all the time or work in an environment with toxic inhalants, then DO NOT put your poo in the garden. There is no need to continue that cycle in your own body or to poison your plants with it.

#3. AS THE WORLD TURNS

As the world turns, so should your compost. My rule of thumb is that it should be turned over a few times at least once per day. This will help the composting process work faster and produce you more humus rich soil sooner. Both giving you the chance to use some in your garden nearly immediately, as well as the chance to add your fresh throw outs without causing the compost pile to spill out on the ground
.

#4. MOISTURE BALANCE

In order to get a fine humus mixture, you will want to abstain from letting the compost get either too dry or too wet. You want a healthy moisture balance in order to maintain the constant composting process. Everyday when you go to turn the compost, check to see how it feels.

You don’t actually have to touch it, though that is more direct. You can just place your hands slightly above the pile. Is it giving off heat? Does it seem cold? Does it look dry or really wet? When all else fails, dip your finger in the top of it and see how it feels. If it is very dry, you’ll want to water it down decently. If it is really wet, you’ll want to add more too it. Preferably more cardboard or other matter that is drier and takes a bit longer to break down.

#5. ADDING IT TO YOUR GARDEN

When the compost is a deep chocolate brown, clumps together well but also falls apart without a ton of force, then it is ready to place in your garden. When you mix it in, try to add some extra sand and colloidal silver to give your plant some extra boosts with the fresh humus.

Add the humus to the garden soil where you would like it and then take a trowel and turn, churn and mix it in. When you go to plant any large bushes, shrubs or small trees, you’ll want to take a bunch of the humus and layer it down before you plant your plant.

Add the humus to your soil every chance you get to turn your soil into the most organic humus rich soil around!

Plants, Camelia's

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:53:00 -0700

Camellias

Buying the right camellias for your garden can seem like a daunting task with so many different colours andvarieties to choose from. Most nurseries carry no more than a handful of varieties, and few carry more than one or two of each, so if you’re after several plants of a particular type you could find yourself running all over town. Pymble Lawns and Gardens can help you solve this problem for you.

Camellias are one of the most popular garden plants of all time, and with the enormous choice of varieties and ways you can use them in your garden, it’s not hard to see why. Flowering times vary between March to November, depending on variety, and colours range from dark reds through to whites, pinks and variegated shades. Whatever your garden situation, there is bound to be a camellia to suit your needs. There are over 250 named species of camellias, but most of the popular hybrids available fall into one of three main types, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua and Camellia reticulata, each one having different characteristics and qualities.

JAPONICA CAMELLIAS
Camellia Debbie	Camellia Desire	Camellia Grand Slam	Camellia Margaret Davis	Camellia Lady Clare

Camellia japonica varieties are the most commonly seen camellias, especially in older gardens, and selected varieties have been in cultivation for well over three hundred years! These camellias are very popular because of their prolific early to late spring flowering, and their large glossy green leaves that make the bush look attractive even when it’s not in flower. A wide range of flower colours and forms are available, from pure white through to pink and deep reds. Single flowered types are the old favourites, with other varieties having miniature blooms, rose-like blooms and double, peony-like flowers that can be quite spectacular. Very similar to the japonicas are the Camellia X williamsii hybrids, which are actually crossbreeds of Camellia japonica and another species, Camellia saluensis.
Japonica camellias are generally quite hardy, although most prefer a bit of protection from harsh sunlight and strong winds, especially the white and pale pink varieties.They are very popular as specimen shrubs in lawns and garden beds where they can be used to create very showy features, and are also useful as screening plants. Some fast growing varieties can be trained as standards and others are suitable for growing in large containers. Camellia japonica is also popular for cut flowers.
Amongst the favourite varieties are ‘Desire’ a luscious double flowered variety with pale pink inner petals edged with darker pink, and ‘Debbie’, a williamsii hybrid with large pink peony-like flowers on an upright bush which is very free flowering. ‘Mark Alan Variegated’ is a compact variety with beautiful wine red blooms splashed with white that are produced over a long period, and ‘Grand Slam’ is a glowing red flowered variety that is really eye-catching.

SASANQUA CAMELLIAS
Camellia Plantation Pink	Camellia Setsugekka	Camellia Hiryu	Camellia Jane Morgan	CamelliaQueenslander

Camellia sasanqua cultivars vary from the japonicas by having smaller leaves, a tighter, more compact growth habit, and better tolerance for full sun. They are earlier flowering, often blooming from late autumn and right through winter, and as such can be used in the garden along with the japonica varieties to give your camellia garden a longer flowering period. Although sasanqua blooms are not as long lasting, they are generally borne in profusion, creating a magnificent display. Many are also fragrant, with a scent often described as that of a freshly opened pack of tea. Very similar in growth and habit are Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis, which some people regard as being hybrid forms of Camellia sasanqua.
Because of their more compact growth habit and their smaller leaves, sasanquas make excellent clipped hedges, topiaries and espaliers. They are especially good for areas in full sun and can be used in tubs on patios or around pathways. As the flowers only last a couple of days before dropping their petals, they are not as suitable for cut flowers as the japonicas and reticulatas.
One of the most well-known sasanqua varieties is ‘Yuletide’, a delightful orange-red flowering plant with compact growth and glossy green leaves. Other useful varieties include ‘Bonanza’, a deep red peony flowered form with a long flowering period, and ‘Plantation Pink’, which has larger pink blooms.

RETICULATA CAMELLIAS

These are the real show ponies of camellias. They are generally not as frost hardy as the japonicas andsasanquas, they have a much more open habit, with a sparser leaf coverage. The main feature of reticulatas is their huge double blooms, which have fluted petals and are absolutely spectacular. They are quick growing, making them ideal for growing as specimen trees and standards. Reticulatas need plenty of water, especially after flowering as they put on a huge growth spurt, but they must also have well drained soil. Unlike the sasanquas and japonicas, they do not respond well to heavy pruning, and can be slow to bloom when they are young. When designing your garden, allow plenty of room for Camellia reticulata to spread, and position them in a spot where you can make the most of their visual impact

Camellias are one of the most popular garden plants of all time, and with the enormous choice of varieties and ways you can use them in your garden, it’s not hard to see why. Flowering times vary between March to November, depending on variety, and colours range from dark reds through to whites, pinks and variegated shades. Whatever your garden situation, there is bound to be a camellia to suit your needs. There are over 250 named species of camellias, but most of the popular hybrids available fall into one of three main types, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua and Camellia reticulata, each one having different characteristics and qualities.

JAPONICA CAMELLIAS
Camellia Debbie	Camellia Desire	Camellia Grand Slam	Camellia Margaret Davis	Camellia Lady Clare

SASANQUA CAMELLIAS
Camellia Plantation Pink	Camellia Setsugekka	Camellia Hiryu	Camellia Jane Morgan	CamelliaQueenslander

RETICULATA CAMELLIAS

Cycads

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:20:00 -0800

This article is written for those who have a problem with their cycad plant, want to avoid the common maladies of growing cycads or would like general sago palm care tips. In this article we discuss the problems that we’ve seen frequently and advise as to potential remedies that seem to help. It is meant to stimulate the reader into inspecting his plants for yellow leaves, brown tips, rot, etc., and coming up with therapeutic modalities for his plants. The better one gets at this, the better grower he will become.

What’s Wrong?

Inspect your plant

In growing cycads, it is very important to make a habit of looking at your plants. Inspection is key to good growing of cycads. They will usually demonstrate to you that they have a problem. However, it helps to know what to look for while inspecting. This can lead to your diagnosing the problem, or at least let you know something is wrong.. Once you establish what the problem is, you can set out to solve it. Described below are some of the things that you can look for while inspecting your cycads. Be aware that different climatic areas may see different problems than we've seen here in Southern California. However, most of the problems discussed below are quite universal to all growing areas. The problems of insects and pests is not dealt with here and will be discussed in a future article.

Encephalartos transvenosus, suspected of rot.

Bottom rot on Encephalartos caudex.

You see visible rot on your caudex or roots: Sometimes one might see rot on the trunk of a cycad. Or, you might see it on inspecting a caudex in pumice that you are trying to root out. Obviously, this requires you're bare-rooting the plant to inspect the roots and base of the caudex. Unfortunately, rot can hide and be deceptive, even starting in the most hidden, deepest roots. With rot, the first thing one notices is that the caudex or root tissue is soft. Rot manifests itself as a dark tan to brown/black color in the caudex or trunk . Rotting roots tend to be soft, darker colored, and lacking secondary roots coming out. This is opposed to light, fleshy healthy roots . Usually the rot involves the lower caudex in it’s subterranean area or the roots. Rot can cause cycads to decline or possibly die if it is not addressed. If you find rot on your caudex, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool (knife or saw) to remove the rot. Cut the rot away until you have only hard tissue that is whitish or light tan in color. Note: in some cases you may not find whitish or light tan tissue; in such cases, cut back to hard tissue. Be careful, if you cut the caudex too much you risk the plant dying. If the rot is on the roots, one needs to individually remove involved roots, dissecting up to clean, healthy tissue. Below are guidelines to the treatment of rot after you've dissected it away.

Encephalartos longifolius, with crown rot forming multiple heads.

Caudex rot on Encephalartos showing soft tissue.

Rooting hormone brand Take Root; a combination of root stimulant and fungicide.

General guideline in the treatment of tissue rot:

1) After you have cut away the rot (trunk or roots), soak the plant in both a fungicide and root stimulant. First soak your plant in a fungicide, like Daconil, for 30 minutes. Always follow manufacturer's instructions about usage and safety on any chemical. Next you will want to soak your plant in a root stimulant, like DipN’Grow, vitamin B1 or B complex (most liquid root stimulants will work), for 30 minutes. The reason why I recommend soaking the plants for 30 minute intervals is because it allows the caudex to absorb both the fungicide and root stimulant into its tissue
2) Sprinkle a powder root stimulant, like Take Root, onto the base of the caudex and/or the root(s).

Pure pumice.

3) You should now seal the cuts with an agricultural tar. This assists in keeping the cut surface clean and also helps to protect from future rot. Melted wax preparations can also be used.
4) We use new clean pumice (or scoria) to re-establish the plant. It is a dry medium and you are less likely to incur rot or other problems. This typically means submerging the treated area of trunk or roots directly into the pot of pumice. If pumice is not available, coarse sand can work. Use a pot that is not overly large for the caudex.
5) The time it takes to reestablish your plant can be three to six months or even longer. Failure will be evidenced by the progression of the rotting tissue and failure to establish leaves or roots. You may wish to bare root the caudex for inspection from time to time. One must repeat the cycles above if rot is rediscovered.

Caudex that hasn't done anything in a long time.

The top of your caudex is soft
This is an ominous sign. It usually means the caudex is in the process of or about to collapse and die. It is usually due to rot and the plant is usually near death. One would typically see the leaves turn brown and fall downward . They may shrivel. On grasping and pinching the crown of the caudex, it will be soft and compress inwards. It might actually collapse beneath the pressure of the fingers. This often means the demise of the entire plant. If the softness to touch is minimal, quickly treat the crown with a drenching of fungicide, and repeat on a regular basis. If the crown is collapsing, one can dissect away the crown of the caudex until healthy tissue is found. Often this is unsuccessful. The mechanics of doing this are discussed elsewhere, but one would be working from the top of the caudex downward. If one is lucky, new suckers will emerge from this dissected level and the plant will survive. More often then not, this plant is bound for the garbage can and is terminally ill.

Encephalartos, rotted and collapsed caudex.

E. transvenosus, inspecting caudex for rot and noting softness to the crown of the plant.

E. transvenosus, rotted caudex. Note it falls apart with ease. This caudex is dead.

An unrooted caudex does nothing
We’ve found that a healthy caudex can take anywhere from six months to two years to establish adequate roots for survival. Some species are faster than others. For instance, Encephalartos horridus established quite quickly while Encephalartos inopinus gets roots much more slowly. Sometimes the latter will even throw leaves prior to establishing roots. This certainly makes one apprehensive, but it is not always a fatal observation. However, sometimes months and years go by and nothing happens; no roots, no leaves. The first thing to do is to inspect the caudex. Feel it in your hands. Is it firm? Is it still heavy in the hand? Does it feel light? Firmly press the sides of the caudex. Does it collapse somewhat, especially toward the crown? When a caudex goes bad and visual inspection shows nothing, rot is often most evident near the crown of the plant or sucker. Are the cataphylls loose? Pull on them gently. Do they easily pull out? Try float testing the caudex. Unobserved central rot can make the caudex float. If everything seems OK and you find nothing, all you can do is place the sucker back in pumice and wait.
A rooting caudex throws leaves before it roots
This is always a worrisome problem. It is never the ideal scene, but sometimes happens and can still result in a healthy rooted plant. We always like to see vigorous roots before a throw of leaves. This can occur just because of the natural cycle of the offset. Let’s say it was about to throw leaves and you removed it for propagation. It will continue to leaf out regardless of being removed. Other times it happens six or twelve months after sucker removal and yet before rooting. In either case, it poses a risk to the new caudex. It is generally agreed that there is a risk of desiccation and death of the caudex as the leaves lose water and the caudex has minimal ability to absorb water without roots. Also, the leaves don’t have a nutritional flow except from the caudex. The throw of new leaves might have used up the energy reserves of the caudex.
Once observed, the problem is what to do. Remember to inspect for and treat any rot. One may treat with fungicide and certainly place the caudex back in pumice. But, what of the leaves; remove them or leave them in place? There is no perfect answer for this, but most growers would remove all or part of the leaves thrown. In actual fact, usually these leaves will abort soon after throwing and seldom do they persist as healthy leaves. Sometimes the collapse of these leaves is rapidly followed by a collapse of the caudex. Yet, if they survive, could they not be able to offer some photosynthesis and creation of energy? For this reason, some would say remove all of the leaves except a few and cut those remaining leaves in half. Once repotted back into pumice, carefully avoid watering the crown on such a plant.

Encephalartos caudex showing crown rot, evident as soft scales near the crown pull apart.

Encephalartos, healthy caudex but no roots and no leaves as of yet.

New leaves shorter than new ones.

Leaves are shorter than normal
If your leaves emerge shorter than they did the last time, there can be a few problems:

a) If you are acclimating your cycad (working it out into sun), the new leaves may be shorter than those which flushed in a shadier environment. This is not a problem; your cycad will grow out of it.
b) If this is the first throw of a recently established sucker or a recently transplanted cycad, short leaves can occur. This will change with successive throws.
c) A throw of leaves in the coldest part of the winter can stunt their length. You might see this on a recently imported and established caudex whose "biological clock" is set to another hemisphere.
c) Leaves emerging shorter can also be an indication of a cultural problem. This could be nutritional requiring treatment with fertilizer or microelements. It could be from a poor soil mix or poor soil aeration. Or, it could be a symptom of caudex or root rot. If you think it is indicated, carefully remove that plant from its pot and wash away the excess dirt with a hose. Inspect the roots or caudex for rot. With a plant in the ground, gently rock the cycad to see if it is loose in the ground, suggesting root rot. You can also check the trunk of your cycad to see if it is soft in exposed areas. If rot is found, treat as described elsewhere in this article.
Keys to good culture.

How to avoid problems

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. It might even be that it’s worth many pounds of cure with cycads. Below are some simple rules to follow.

Inspection

This is one of the most important things you can do. Follow the guidelines mentioned previously and practice observation, especially watching for problems or failure to thrive. Usually you can find the problem and fix it.

Growing the right cycads

Growing the right cycads for you area is important. This will involve your talking to someone or doing a little research on your own, but it can make a huge difference in your garden. You will find that some cycads want a tropical environment where some want a dry one. Fortunately for us in Southern California, we can grow most cycads. Our limitations here are with those cycads with the most tropical demands. If you live in a temperate or colder area, tropical Zamias might prove impossible without a greenhouse. You might also find that South African species of Encephalartos grow better than those from Central Africa. Also, very humid climates such as in Miami or the Tropics might find arid growers like Encephalartos horridus prone to rot. This might require special preventative cultural techniques. For the greatest chances of success, get species right for your area.

Drainage, drainage, drainage

Regardless of your soil type, always maintain good drainage. The soil should never be waterlogged. Sand, pumice and gravel help promote drainage. Very fine sand, leafy organic material and clay-type topsoil slow it down. If it is impossible to offer good drainage in the garden, mound up you cycads above the soil line so you can control the water content of the soil.

Soil

Either make or amend you soil to create good drainage. See our article on cycad soil for specific formulas. Remember that the organic components of cycad mix can break down, resulting in “muck” at the bottom of the pot or an impediment to drainage. Repotting is the remedy for this problem. This is important for container culture. In the garden consider amending with sand. If you can’t buy or obtain materials for a good cycad soil, think about using a cactus and succulent mix. These might suffice.

Adequate sun

We have seen many promising cycads stall because they have lost their sunlight. This is usually the result of competitive more rapidly growing plants. If a species wants sun, remember to maintain it. Loss of sun will lead to a plant that just sits there and doesn’t do much of anything.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is an important part in growing any plant. The key is to know what kind, how often and how much you should fertilizer you should use. We recommend using a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote, using an N/P/K ratio that is 3-1-2 or 3-1-3. An example of a good fertilizer might therefore be 18:6:18. You should fertilize once every three to four months, depending on your formulae and release rate. I always recommend that you use a little less fertilizer than what is suggested on the bag because you don’t kill plants with too little fertilizer, but you do with too much.

Watering

Watering is an important part of growing cycads, because there’s hardly a cycad that likes to have wet feet. Get use to inspecting your garden soil or the soil in he containers. Don’t let it stay too damp. Drying out near the surface is preferable on most species. Typically, watering frequencies for temperate weather is about once, or possibly twice a week during hot weather. During the winter, once every week or two is usually adequate. For desert type environments, adjust the frequency depending on the soil moisture content. For tropical environments, try to avoid conditions where the plant and soil are continually damp. Mounding might be necessary. Or, overhead shielding during the rainy season might be needed. Also, regardless of where you are, water the garden or container soil, not the crown of the plant. Repetitive watering of the crown will lead to rot. This means that frequent overhead sprinklers can be a problem. Ground bubblers on timers can be great for the cycad garden. This also explains why climates with daily monsoon seasons can lead to difficulties with some species.

Ventilation

In a greenhouse environment, ventilation to provide adequate air movement around your cycads will help prevent mold and rot. Stationary oscillating fans or intake/exhaust fans can help accomplish this. Poor ventilation often causes mold and scale problems in the greenhouse.

Prophylactic treatment

Get into the habit of inspecting your plants. If you see fungal problems or rot, treat it early. Fungicides can also be used prophylacticly to avoid problems if you are anticipating them. This would especially apply to plants grown in a humid greenhouse.

Oscillating large fan in the greenhouse.

In this article we have covered many of the basics in protecting your cycads. The great thing about it is that cycads really do not take much maintenance at all. You could say that they almost thrive on neglect. Just be careful when you water, don’t fertilize too much and make sure that your cycad is in a quick draining soil and has adequate light. If you do the things discussed above, you should become a successful cycad grower.

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

lace Mites

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 9 Oct 2010 13:47:00 -0700

Azalea Lace Bugs - fact sheet
The Azalea Lace Bug (Stephanitis pyrioides), an insect originating from Japan, is a signicant pest of azaleas and rhododendrons in many regions of the world where these plants are cultivated. The bug especially attacks plants growing in sunny, exposed situations.
Symptoms of lace bug attack
The feeding activity of every stage of the lace bug life cycle produces a widespread grey-whitish/silvery mottling on the upper surfaces of the leaves, similar in colour but coarser in texture to that caused by spider mites. Adult and juvenile lace bugs feed on the undersurfaces of azalea and rhododendron leaves. The mottling is usually so severe that leaves that have been attacked are permanently disfigured. Leaves will die and fall from the plant well before their time. Sticky brown patches or ‘varnish’ (excretory products of the lace bugs) appear on the undersides of the leaves. The Azalea Lace Bug is widespread throughout Australia.
Life cycle
The lace bug has at least two (and possibly four) generations per year in Australia. Adults reach 4-6 mm in length. They have clear, heavily veined wings - hence the insects’ common name. Juvenile lace bugs are wingless, spiny, have long antennae relative to their body length, and have a black and tan mottled colouring giving them an overall dark appearance.
There are probably five nymphal instars. Nymphal moult skins often remain stuck to lace bug varnish on the undersides of leaves. Lace bugs overwinter in the egg stage, hatching when conditions improve for them in the sping. Eggs are inserted into the mid-vein on the underside of the azalea or rhododendron leaf as they are laid. They have a brown protective covering which hardens on contact with air.
Control
Lace bugs are particularly difficult to control. There is currently no known effective biological control agent (e.g. a parasitic wasp). There are some pesticides that are registered for the control of this pest.

Call 1300 882 787
Servicing the Blue Mountains
and Western Sydney
ACN 127 048 015
www.propertymaintenance.net.au

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

Curl grubb

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Sat, 9 Oct 2010 13:04:00 -0700

General information
Scarab beetle larvae, also known as white curl grub (or cockchafer in southern states), are a serious lawn pest. The signs of infestation are easily confused with other pests, diseases and disorders in turf and present as a general yellowing, then browning, followed by the death of lawn.
Overview
Pest characteristics
In subtropical areas, lawn injury is commonly seen from November through to January. The most common causal agent is African black beetle (Heteronychus arator), although a number of native and non-native scarabs look similar and produce comparable damage. These include pruinose scarab (Sericesthis geminata) and Argentine scarab (Cyclocephala signaticollis). If in doubt, have the pest formally identified.
Third instar African black beetle larvae grow to 20-25 mm in length before pupating in the soil. They have an orange-brown head capsule. Oval-shaped, shiny black adults, 12-15 mm long, emerge during February, feeding on stems just below ground level. They are less active through winter and mate in spring after the female has reached sexual maturity.
Only one generation is produced each year. Deceptively, different larval stages are sometimes found in the soil. This is mainly due to eggs being laid at different times.
Correct names
White curl grub, scarab beetle larvae, lawn beetle larvae or cockchafer are the correct common names for the juvenile stage of lawn beetle. However, white curl grub is sometimes incorrectly referred to as 'lawn grub' and 'witchety grub'. 'Lawn grub' is a colloquial term for surface-dwelling caterpillars such as sod webworm, army worm and cutworm, which become moths. The true witchety grub is the wood-feeding larva of two families of giant Australian moth.
Symptoms
White curl grubs have a characteristic 'C' shape and three pairs of legs. They live underground, protected by soil. Animals such as magpies, crows, wood duck and other carnivorous birds, bandicoots and even foxes enjoy this food source. Damage from animal feeding can be the first indicator that the insects are present.
Some white curl grubs are parasitised by the yellow (hairy) flower wasp (Campsomeris tasmaniensis) in southern Queensland. This 30 mm-long hairy wasp with yellow and black banding on its abdomen can also act as an indicator of the presence of beetle larvae.
The late second instar and third instar phases of the beetle’s lifecycle are the most damaging to turf. These larger larvae are voracious feeders on roots and underground stems. The adults also feed on turf, but cause much less damage.
What often differentiates white curl grub damage from other types of lawn dieback, such as that caused by drought or water repellent soils, is that the lawn starts to slip or roll up like a carpet. If this symptom is detected it is time to bring out a large corer or shovel and dig for beetle larva.
A problem infestation is generally regarded to be 25 or more white curl grubs per square metre. If fewer larvae are present, healthy turf is likely to outgrow the minor damage it will sustain. Under heat and drought stress, the problem may be exacerbated by poor rates of regrowth and smaller numbers of larvae can cause significant damage.
Host range
African black beetles establish in a wide range of grasses including green couch, blue couch, soft leaf buffalo grass and kikuyu. The insect has a broad range of dietary preferences and larvae will attack, among other things, strawberries, pineapples, potatoes and grape vines.
Detection
Control measures are most effective when insect activity is monitored. One way of doing this is to moisten a hessian bag or piece of carpet and place it on the lawn overnight. In the morning the adults can be collected and disposed of. Check for adult beetles from late spring to early summer when egg laying commences.
It is thought that garden lighting may be helpful in attracting and detecting adult beetles. However, this may have the unwanted side effect of increasing egg laying activity in adjacent lawn areas. Turning off unnecessary garden lighting may reduce pest numbers.
Biological controls
Some householders encourage carnivorous birds into their garden to control the pest. However, if the white curl grub problem is severe, bird feeding can cause extensive damage in its own right. Free range poultry will also keep pest numbers in check.
A bucket of soapy water made with a biodegradable detergent can be poured onto affected areas, encouraging the larvae and beetles to move to the surface where they might be picked off by birds.
Effective control of later larval stages is only achievable with insect killing nematodes, known as entomopathogenic nematodes (ENs). They are active only against specific soil-dwelling insects, safe to handle and safe for plants. These nematodes were commercialised in 1999 after extensive research by the CSIRO Division of Entomology in Canberra.
ENs for African black beetle are raised in a laboratory and shipped in a dormant state. When received, the ENs must first be hydrated in water, and then lightly stirred to avoid settling. The suspension can then be watered onto a pre-moistened lawn. This needs to be done in the late afternoon because ENs are sensitive to the sun’s ultra-violet rays.
Upon release, the nematodes sense their target, move to it, and enter their prey through openings in its body. They then release bacteria that feed on the inside of the larva. The bacterium nurtures the nematode population, which builds up to the point where the larvae dies, rupturing to release a new generation of ENs into the soil.
Chemical control
Read garden chemical product labels carefully prior to purchase. Make sure the product is registered for use on home lawns for lawn beetle. There are three stages of the lawn beetles’ lifecycle for which a chemical may be registered. Use the chemical on the correct part of the lifecycle, strictly following the directions on the label.
Chemical control measures are most effective on newly hatched larvae. The presence of adult beetles is a cue to check the soil for early stages of the lifecycle, which are vulnerable to imidacloprid (Confidor) and thiamethoxam (Meridan) applications.
The organophosphate, chlorpyrifos (various lawn beetle and lawn grub formulations), is registered for the control of lawn beetle larvae and adults. In practice, the chemical is only effective on larvae if it infiltrates the soil and reaches the insect. It does not work well on larvae with high body fat. In addition, chlorpyrifos is highly toxic to the user and needs to be handled with caution.
Prior to treatment, water the lawn well to bring the larvae closer to the surface. Penetration of chemical will also be enhanced by mowing, then raking out thatch, before treatment.
The adult beetle is easier to control. Other chemicals registered for the control of adults have the active ingredients beta-cyfluthrin, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin (Baythroid) and diazinon (Pennside). Synthetic pyrethroids (such as bifenthrin and cyfluthrin forms) are safer to handle than organophosphates such as diazinon and chlorpyrifos. Pennside has been micro-encapsuled, reducing its toxicity to users.

Call 1300 882 787
Servicing the Blue Mountains
and Western Sydney
ACN 127 048 015
www.propertymaintenance.net.au

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

Coicheli Michelia

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Fri, 8 Oct 2010 15:06:00 -0700

Michelia figo
(Port wine Magnolia)
HEIGHT 3M AFTER 10 YEARS
WIDTH 2M AFTER 10 YEARS
FULL SUN
SEMI SHADE
FRAGRANT FLOWERS
CONTAINER PLANT

DESCRIPTION – An attractive evergreen shrub with glossy green leaves that slowly grows to its maximum height. It is an old favourite for many people because of it highly scented yellow-purple flowers that are produced during Spring, early Summer and Autumn.
CULTURAL - Michelias, a relative of the Magnolia, prefer a moist, fertile and well drained soil that is slightly acidic so when planting it helps if the position has been prepared that way. A warm, sunny aspect is best, though they do tolerate partial shade. We advise an annual application of good quality fertilizer in Spring, and mulching and watering during the drier months especially when the plant is establishing itself.
LANDSCAPE USE – Most famous for its small flowers-their strong sweet scent will drift about in the air so it is a great one for planting around entertaining areas or close to the home.

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

Greenlife*

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Wed, 29 Sep 2010 00:37:00 -0700

Hi people, you really should check this product out.

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.

Composting

noreply@blogger.com (propertymaintenance) — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 01:41:00 -0800

- Posted by The Zeal Group

What is composting?
Composting is nature’s own recycling program. In time, organisms will break down the ingredients listed below into rich, dark crumbly compost - nature’s own nutrient-rich fertiliser.

How does composting work and how long does it take?
Natural composting, or decomposition, occurs all the time in nature. Home composting generally takes two months or more. The more you turn and mix the contents - adding air in the process - the more rapid the composting action will be.

The right conditions include
the right ratio of nitrogen to carbon - equal amounts of ‘greens’ (kitchen scraps) for nitrogen and ‘browns’ (fallen leaves and woody material) for carbon
the right amount of water (feels like a damp sponge)
good drainage (to remove excess moisture)
enough oxygen (turned often)
What can you compost at home?
Vegetable and fruit scraps
Fallen leaves
Grass clippings
Finely chipped branches
Used vegetable cooking oil
Tea leaves, tea bags
Coffee grounds
Vacuum cleaner dust
Egg shells
Sheets of newspaper
Paper bags
Shredded paper
What can’t you compost?
Metal, plastic, glass
Meat and dairy products (attract rodents)
Large branches
Bones
Plant bulbs (need specialised treatment)
Droppings of meat-eating animals (e.g. dogs)
Grubs in your compost?
Sometimes in compost bins there are many segmented brown grubs. These are the larvae of the beneficial Soldier Fly. They are not pests, nor will they cause health problems.

Mulches
Mulches can prevent up to 73% evaporation loss and they are one of the cheapest and easiest ways to make the most of water in the garden.
The best mulch is a well-rotted compost which will also improve the soil structure and stimulate the biological life of the soil. Place the mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot.
Do not apply mulch more than 75-100 mm in thickness or water may not easily penetrate into the soil.

Pymble Gardening

Sandstone pathways

How to Grow Chervil

How to Grow Chervil

Planning the crop

Growing tips

Pests and diseases

Echium or pride of Madira

Planting: Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Pruning: Plants should be cut back hard before winter. Pests: Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Echium or pride of Madira

Planting: Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Pruning: Plants should be cut back hard before winter. Pests: Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Plants And Potassium

Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants

Effects Of Potassium On Plants

What Is In Potassium Fertiliser

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden. Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

Cankers On Trees

What is Humus

Pruning citrus trees sydney

Growing tulips

Managing camellias

Natural landscaping

Potassium

How To Make Humus Rich Soil

Plants, Camelia's

Cycads

lace Mites

Curl grubb

Coicheli Michelia

Greenlife*

Composting

Planting:
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Pruning:
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.
Pests:
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Planting:
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.

Pruning:
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.
Pests:
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.
Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.