The current plug-in car grants scheme allows anyone purchasing an electric car to claim a grant of up to 25% of the value of the vehicle, up to a maximum value of £5,000. New plug-in van owners can claim up to 20% of the van value which is capped at a maximum value of £8,000. For a van to qualify for the grant it must emit less than 75g/km CO2, be capable of traveling at least 60 miles between charges (10 miles in electric mode for hybrid vans), and be capable of reaching speeds of more than 50mph, finally to ensure the correct level of safety is met it must meet the ‘European Vehicle Type Approval’.

In 2011 there were 5 cars available on the market that qualify for the grant and 1052 eligible registered cars sold, of which the Government received only 892 applications for the plug-in car grant. With 5 more cars being released in 2012 along with the various vans on offer it will be interesting to see how many applications are applied for in 2012. The Government are hoping that their plug-in grant combined with low running costs and tax benefits will entice more people to make the move to electric vehicles.

A low running cost of less than 2p per mile will be the big attraction especially for companies running van fleets, but there are still many drawbacks which are putting businesses and private individuals off purchasing electric vehicles.

Because the technology is still in its infancy and production is on a small scale electric vans can be very expensive, approximately three times the cost of a diesel van. Forecast for depreciation in the first generation of fully electric vans is also a big problem as they are predicted to lose approximately 80% of their initial value over a three year period. Electric vehicle also need a secure storage to charge their batteries for several hours overnight and have a limitation on the number of miles that they can travel on one charge.

Despite these limitations the number of Eco-friendly vans and cars on our roads are on the rise and as the technology progresses and their production increases we should start to see a significant drop in the costs of these vehicles.

The much loved mini van which ceased production 30 years ago is set to return to the commercial vehicle market. BMW who own the mini brand are calling it the Mini Cargo which is set to make it debut at the 2012

Aimed at the style conscious business owner the new model van won’t have a new body shape but instead will utilise the current mini clubman base. The back and side windows will be removed and replaced by metal panels along with the rear seats to make way for a flat loading floor. It unsure yet whether the roof height will be adjusted to make way for more cargo.

Small commercial vans are already popular in the UK and throughout Europe so another addition to the market that looks just like a stylish mini is likely to be welcomed. Though its limited cargo area won’t suit all businesses it will make the perfect pizza delivery vehicle and may make an ideal vehicle for the style conscious florist.

Stunned Police in Northern China’s Hebei Province pulled over what they suspected was an overloaded van, only to find it packed with children.

The minivan which is usually designed to carry 8 passengers had a staggering 66 children aged between 4 and 5 crammed into the back.

The children who were on their way to school were all removed from the van while the driver was questioned.

To accommodate all 66 children the back seats of the van were removed and replaced with wooden benches. The driver was arrested and given a series of tickets from breaking various motoring laws. It took 12 police vans to pick up the children and take them home.

The London Low Emission Zone scheme (LEZ) was first introduced on February 4^th 2008 and covers most of Greater London. It was setup to help London meet its European Union (EU) air pollution obligations by reducing roadside pollution, which is a major contributor to the city’s airborne pollution problem. On January 3^rd 2012 the scheme will move into phase 3 which will affect older minibuses, large vans, 4×4 light utility vehicles, pickups and other specialist diesel vehicles with an un-laden weight greater than 1.205 tonnes.

If you vehicle has a 51 plate or older and was registered as new before 1^st January 2002 then the new regulations will affect you, regardless of whether your vehicle is used for private or commercial use. This means that vans with Euro 2 engines that don’t meet the emissions standard by 3^rd January and who drive within the Greater London area will have to pay a daily charge of £100 or risk a £500 penalty.

Which vehicles won’t meet the LEZ emissions standards in 2012

Do I have any options?

Aside from getting a newer van there are a number of options available if your vehicle doesn’t meet the LEZ standard and you still wish to use it within the Greater London LEZ zone.

• Pay a daily fine of £100 each time you enter the LEZ zone.
• Convert your van to run solely on LPG.
• Have a filter fitted that reduces your vehicles emissions enough to comply with the LEZ emissions standards. This involves purchasing the correct filter, having it fitted and then getting it certified which can cost up to £3000. Once a filter is fitted it will need to be re-tested every year and with a year’s fumes passing through it along with wear and tear, there is no guarantee that after 12 months is up, the filter will still be capable of ensuring the vehicle passes a second emissions test.

What are the changes to larger vehicles?

With regards to Lorries, buses & coaches and heavy specialist vehicles the current minimum standard is a Euro III engine, which will change to Euro IV from 3^rd January 2012. This means that larger vehicles will need to have been registered as new either on or after 1^st October 2001 to comply with the new 2012 emissions standards. Failure to comply with this new standard whilst operating within the Greater London area will result in a daily charge of £200 or risk a fine of £1000.

Larger vehicles that won’t meet the LEZ emissions standards in 2012

Which areas does the LEZ cover and how do they check?

The LEZ is monitored by cameras that check a vehicles registration plate against a database of registered vehicles. The database uses information from The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA), the Vehicle Operator Services Agency (VOSA), the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) along with information gathered from vehicles who have registered for the scheme. This enables the system to be able to automatically tell whether a vehicle has paid the daily charge, meets the minimum emissions standard or is subject to a fine.

This means that if your vehicle isn’t registered in the UK it wont be in any of the databases to be checked, so you can be fined even if your vehicle complies with the emissions standard. You can prevent this from happening by registering your vehicle if you intend to drive within the LEZ

How to register your vehicle

Is there a way of check to see if my vehicle is affected?

Yes you can check on the Transport for London website to see if your vehicle is affected by the new changes to come into place on January 3^rd 2012

Check your vehicle by type

Check your vehicle by Registration Plate

If the van only carries light goods or tools and you don’t consider the driver or passenger to be at risk from such cargo in the event of an accident, you may be surprised to find that you are wrong. In a collision at 31mph something as small as a 200g screwdriver will be propelled forward with a collision weight of 8kg, a coke bottle that’s left unsecured will become a 30kg missile. If the van happens to carry a payload of 100kg then in a 30mph crash the payload weight will increase by 40 times. That’s a 4 tonne force hurtle towards the front of the van which will killing anyone in its path is there are no measures taken to prevent this from happening.

With the progression in technology safety features like airbags, ABS, ESP, EBD and EBA have made vans a lot safer over the past few years, but none of these will protect passengers from an unsecured load. To protect the drivers cab from danger there are 3 options available; lashing down the load, installing a bulkhead and fitting a vehicle storage systems. It’s not always possible to tie the load down if it comprises of multiple small items so the other two ways will be provide a safer choice.

Bulkheads

Bulkheads are physical barriers that separate the driver and passengers from the cargo area they are available in a number of configurations and materials.

1. Solid Steel Bulkheads form a solid barrier between passenger and cargo area, they are extremely strong and have the benefit of blocking off any cargo from prying eyes. If you live in a hot climate and rely on air conditioning to keep the cab cool, they help so that the cool air stays in the cab eliminating the need to chill the entire van to keep cool.

2. Bulkheads with a window are full steel bulkhead with a solid Perspex window which provides strength and visibility through the rear window or to the cargo area.

2. Punched bulkheads usually offer a solid steel wall on the bottom half with a punched steel upper half which has a limited view to the cargo area through a grille window.

3. Metal grille bulkheads are lighter in weight, still offer a good level of protection and have the benefit of being able to see the cargo which is especially useful if you need to keep an eye on it.

4. Bulkheads with a door allow the crew easy access to and from the cargo area without having to leave the van.

5. Wooden bulkheads made from Plywood have the added benefit of being modifiable after they are installed where you can add wooden racking or shelves for storing very light weight materials. They are also a lot cheaper than steel bulkheads.

6. Plastic Bulkheads are made from Polypropylene which is a lightweight plastic that is extremely strong, you can take a sledge hammer to it and there will be no damage. The material is a lot lighter than steel and it doesn’t rust so it can also be used to line the whole of the cargo space protecting the interior of the van from rust and damage.

Van Racks

Once you have right bulkhead for the load you will be carrying choosing a professional racking system for securing loose items is the next step. Many businesses try and cut down the cost here by building and installing their own DIY storage units which may seem to do the job. Unfortunately they are not tested to withstand the impact of a crash and in many cases will just break free in the event of such a shock and kill anyone in the front of the van. In many countries having proper van racking to suit the materials being carried is a legal requirement. To fulfil this requirement companies like bott, Sortimo and Modul-Systems International (TEVO in the UK) have developed racking and storage solutions to meet businesses needs.

Whether you need cabinets, cupboards, shelving or even a workbench there are modular storage solutions to suit every requirement. All storage solutions are designed to be light weight yet extremely sturdy and most importantly load tested so that if the van should be involved in an accident you know that any cargo load will always be secure. Below are a range of clips highlighting just how important a bulkhead and van storage can be in the event of an accident.

In some EU countries such as Austria, Germany, Finland and even some of the states in the US and Canada it’s compulsory to fit a set of winter tires on your vehicle in the winter months. Winter tires which are also known as Cold Weather Tyres are not the same as snow tires as these have metal studs embedded in the tyre and are only suitable to use on surfaces completely covered in snow or ice. If you use studded snow tyres on tarmac they will damage the surface and could end up costing you a fine.

What’s the difference between winter and summer tyres?

Summer tires are made from a harder rubber than winter tyres so when the weather is hot and the tyres heat up they don’t wear as quickly. Summer tyres also grip better and have a shorter stopping distance than winter tires in the summer months. Winter tyres on the other hand are made from a softer rubber that doesn’t harden in the winter and are ideally suited to the colder winter months when the temperature drops below +7 degrees centigrade. Winter tyres also have a noticeably different tread pattern which is deeper with many thin wiggly slits in the rubber called “sipes”. This combination of tread technology and softer material that doesn’t harden in the cold means that the tires grip much better on the road and provide a much higher level of safety.

What weather are winter tyres suitable for?

Winter tyres are ideally suited to colder temperatures when the roads are wet, icy or covered in slush or snow. Continental a leading German manufacturer of tyres recently undertook some intensive testing on a vans breaking distance when travelling in icy conditions. The tests found that a vans breaking distance when travelling at 30mph increased by up to 31%. When travelling on standard tyres versus winter tyres it will take a van on average, an extra 13 metres breaking distance to come to a complete stop. If it’s a small car size van it will still take an extra 8m to stop, which is an increased breaking distance of 23%. On wet roads winter tyres also have a high level of protection against aquaplaning than conventional tyres. Winter tyres do have different speed ratings than conventional tyres so you do need to be aware of this fact as they are a little lower.

When should I change my tyres?

Ideally you should think about changing your tyres over at the October / November time and then changing them back to summer tyres in March / April when the temperature starts to rise. It’s important to note that if you do fit winter tyres then you need to change all four tyres not just the front or back two as a mixture of tyres can be dangerous. Rather than stripping the tyres from the wheels at the end of each season it’s sometimes better to fit the winter tires to a spare set of cheaper wheels. That way the tyres or wheels aren’t damaged each time they are changed over you just need storage space for the 5 wheels including the spare. There are a number of companies who offer a package for storing your tyres/wheels and changing them over twice a year when the weather changes.

The likelihood of having an accident is much higher in the winter months especially if there is snow or ice on the roads as most vehicle just aren’t equipped with the right tyres. Below are two clips that show a comparison between summer, all season and winter tyres have a look and you may be surprised just how much difference something as simple a tyre change can make to the handling of a vehicle. So if you run a fleet of vans or rely on the use of your van for your trade then winter tires should be a serious consideration for your businesses vehicles this winter.

• Visibility is extremely important so check all your lights are working properly and replace any worn bulbs. It’s a good idea to carry a set of spares which can be purchase as a kit containing all the bulbs you need for your van in one handy container.
• Windscreen wipers need to be in good working order, when necessary replace the wiper blades if they are worn and ensure that the water jets are not clogged. The windscreen reservoir bottle needs to be topped up with a mixture of water and wash/antifreeze to prevent it from freezing when the temperature drops. If you have an all season windscreen wash it will freeze at -5 degrees, where a quality winter wash/antifreeze will give you protection down to -30 degrees.
• As a final measure for ensuring that your van windows are kept clean it’s a good idea to carry a scraper and can of deicer, to ensure that your windscreen visibility has no restrictions. Also be aware that it’s not just your windows that need to be clear, if you drive your van with a roof full of snow the Police can pull you over for breaking rule 229 of the Highway Code, which carries a £60 penalty and 3 points on your license.
• Your vans engines cooling system also contains water and needs to have a mixture of 50/50 water and antifreeze in the winter to protect the engine. Failure to protect the cooling fluid from freezing can result in both the engine block cracking and the radiator breaking, as water tends to expands when it freezes, which can result in a hefty bill.
• Ensure that both the windscreen defroster and heater are both working properly as your heater will be essential for keeping you warm should you get stranded in the snow.
• One of the biggest causes of breakdown callouts is a flat battery, if your battery no longer holds a charge it’s a good idea to replace it before the bad weather comes as batteries generally become less efficient in cold weather.
• Having the minimum tire tread may be acceptable in good conditions but a 1.6mm tire tread will be completely useless in snowy conditions. A snow tire will have a much higher tread depth than standard tires ranging between 11-14mm in depth, so if you don’t have snow tires on your van make sure you at least have a reasonable tread left.
• Make sure that the van is in sound working order and if a service is required ensure that it’s carried out before embarking on a long journey, so that any problems can be fixed. If the van does have a service make sure that the mechanic checks all the hoses and belt for signs of wear and tear.
• It’s generally a good idea to keep your fuel tank topped when driving through remote areas or on the motorway. The harsh conditions are likely to increase your journey time and if the worst should happen and you get stranded, at least you have plenty of fuel to keep you warm until help comes or the roads are cleared.
• Remember that in icy conditions your vans breaking distance can be up to 10 times greater, so ensure that you keep ample distance between your van and the one in front.
• If the roads are icy and your van starts to skid don’t slam your foot on the break, instead try to turn the wheel to steer into the direction of the skid until the tires find grip and the van straightens out. An example of this is if your van is skidding to the right, smoothly turn the wheel to the right until the van gains control and then gently accelerate to gain control out of the skid.
• It’s a good idea to keep a winter survival kit for travelling in snowy weather, the kit should include:
  • First Aid kit
  • Snow shovel
  • Blankets
  • Warm Clothing
  • Water and Food (ideally high energy food)
  • Cell Phone and Charger
  • A Torch (Wind up torches can be quite useful as they don’t require batteries)
  • High visibility vest and triangle

Should the worst happen any you get stranded:

• If it’s safe to do so stay in your van and don’t go wondering off, the van will protect you from the weather and it will be easier to find. When everything is covered in snow it’s very easy to get lost or disorientated and with heavy snow and freezing temperatures staying in your van is the best option.
• If you have kept the engine topped up then you should have plenty of fuel to keep you warm. Run the engine for 10 minutes every half hour to keep the engine and passengers warm, but don’t run it permanently as you will use up all your fuel. When the engine is running keep the window slightly open to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
• If the van is stationery make sure that you check the exhaust pipe before turning on the engine as a blocked pipe will fill the car up with deadly carbon monoxide. It’s important to note that carbon monoxide fumes are odourless and colourless, so you will have no warning if you are breathing them.

Hopefully these tips will help to ensure that if you have to make a trip this winter in bad weather at least you have prepared as best you can, leave plenty of time for the journey and keep your speed down. The best advice of all is that if you don’t have to make the trip don’t, wait until the conditions improve.

1. ABS (Antilock Brakes) – Prevents the wheels from locking which would cause the van to skid out of control, ABS stops the van in the shortest possible time but gives the driver steering control in the process.
2. Balloon Payment – A balloon payment is a large sum payable at the end of some lease or hire purchase agreements where the monthly payments will be slightly less than an agreement where the total amount owed is paid through instalments only.
3. Box Van – This is a van with a cuboid shaped cargo area.
4. Bulkhead – This is a partition that provides an extra level of security by separating the cab area and the load area. Bulkheads come in half height, full height, solid, Grille/mesh and bulkheads with windows.
5. Chassis Cab – Also known as a cab chassis is a style of body. It consists of a cab and bare bones ladder frame which is the basic building platform to which the van can be converted to a tipper, dropside or box van.
6. Conversion Van – These are vans that have been modified by a third party whether it’s to cater for someone with a disability, for use as a motor home or other.
7. Crew Vans – Have an extra row of seats and can carry up to 6 passengers.
8. Dropside Van – These have an open top and shallow sides that drop down for easy access, they are commonly used in the construction and landscape/gardening industries.
9. EBA (Electronic Brake Assist) – In an emergency if you don’t apply sufficient force to the brake pedal EBA sensors detect its an emergency and compensates for deficiencies in brake pressure and raises the brake pressure to give a shorter braking distance.
10. EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution) – Works in conjunction with ABS what EBD does is adjust how much braking force both the front and rear of the van have. By using sensors it electronically monitors the road conditions, the speed and weight of the van to increase the vans ability to stop in the shortest distance under any condition.
11. ESP (Electronic Stability Programme) – Also known as Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) has been referred to by many automotive experts as the single most important safety feature developed since air bags and seat belts. When an emergency manoeuvre is performed ESP uses sensors to prevent the driver from losing control an example of this would be in situations such as slippery surfaces or sharp corners.
12. Euro 4 - This is a UV emissions standard that was first introduced in 2005 and means that your van is limited to a set level of emissions, so your van will be greener than an older model that doesn’t comply to Euro IV.
13. Gap Insurance – When you take out a lease agreement or repayment loan for a van the amount you still owe for the van can be more than the value of the vehicle due to depreciation. As insurance only pay out the value for the van at the time of theft or an accident which may result in a gap between the value you still owe in payments and the amount the insurance company pay out. Gap insurance takes care of this amount so that you are completely covered.
14. Gross Train Weight (GTW) - This is the maximum permitted weight of the van + the trailer being towed (this includes any loads being carried in the van/vehicle or trailer).
15. Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) - The gross vehicle weight is the maximum allowable weight of the van including the weight of the driver, passenger’s fuel and any load being carried.
16. Hire Purchase – This is where the hirer pays instalments to the hire purchaser for the use of the van, the van remains the property of the hiring company until the last instalment is paid. If the person or company hiring the van terminate their contract then the van goes back to the hire purchase company. It’s different from purchasing a van through finance instalments as this method of purchasing a van means that ownership of the van is transferred to the purchaser after they make the first payment instalment
17. HP (Horse Power) - This is the power responsible for acceleration, pushing the vehicle along and cruising under normal conditions. If you want to floor your van and see how fast it will accelerate then horsepower is the measurement you would be concerned with as its what gives you quick acceleration (see torque also).
18. Lease - Van leasing is where an individual or company rent a van for a fixed period of time and at the end of the agreement just return the van. When you lease you are only paying off the depreciation of the van over the term, so it can work out quite a bit cheaper than purchasing if you intend to swap vans every 3-4 years.
19. Load Space – The interior space of a van where goods can be loaded for transporting.
20. Luton Van – A Luton van has a box style body that extends over the cab, they are very popular with removals companies because they have a large internal storage capacity.
21. LWB (Long Wheel Base) - The wheelbase is the distance between the centre of the front wheel and the centre of the rear wheel. A MWB van is longer then a SWB but shorter than a LWB so is in the middle for size for base length.
22. MWB (Medium Wheel Base) - The wheelbase is the distance between the centre of the front wheel and the centre of the rear wheel.
23. Panel Vans - These have rigid non articulated bodies with good exterior protection to prevent bumps and scrapes. They are available in a wide range of shapes and sizes and are designed to be compact on the outside while maximising the internal load space. The most popular panel van is the ford transit, but there is no shortage of choice when looking for the right panel van for your needs.
24. PAS – Means power assisted steering which mates steering the van a lot less strenuous.
25. Payload Capacity - The Maximum cargo weight a van can carry.
26. Single Cab - This is where the van has just one row of seats which will allow up to 3 passengers to be carried depending on the van size.
27. SWB (Short Wheel Base) – The wheelbase is the distance between the centre of the front wheel and the centre of the rear wheel, so a SWB will be similar in length to a medium size car. You can’t fit as much in the van as a MWB or LWB but they are very useful for manoeuvring in small spaces and a lot more economical in fuel.
28. Tail Gate – Pickup trucks, tippers and dropside vans all have a panel at the rear that prevents anything from falling out of the back. This rear panel is called a tail gate on pickups and dropsides the tail gate is hinged at the bottom so that the tailgate can lower. On a tipper the tailgate is hinged at the tip so that when the loading area is raised the load being carried can easily slide out of the rear without getting trapped in the tail gate.
29. Tail Lift – Often seen on Luton vans or some panel vans a tail lift is a hydraulic platform that can be used for lifting goods or people from the floor to the load space level. Tail lifts fold up when not in use, but can be very heavy and decrease the vans payload capacity.
30. Tipper Van – Like a dropside van with an open top and shallow sides that drop, the difference being that a tipper has a hydraulic ram which mechanically raises one side of the load area to enable the contents to be emptied quickly.
31. Torque – Is the brute force behind the engines power and is used when moving from a stand still to get the vehicle into motion. If you are towing something behind the van, hauling heavy good or driving up a long steep gradient, torque is what gives you the power. Torque and Horsepower combine to give you your engines power.

1. Be a smart shopper
Most things we buy in life will vary in price depending on the outlet we choose to purchase from the same applies for fuel. A little shopping around can bring about a big saving on your fuel costs over a 12 month period. If you are not aware of local fuel prices then a great way to check is www.petrolprices.com a website dedicated to providing you with the best up to date fuel prices for your area. The site requires that you sign up for free after which a quick check showed a 10p difference if fuel prices per litre for my local area.

2. Keep your tyres inflated
Ensuring that your tires are kept at the correct pressure can make your van up to 3% more fuel efficient than driving with under inflated tires. It’s estimated that as many as 50% of the tires on our UK roads are under inflated which not only bumps up the cost of your MPG but shortens the life expectancy of the tires. Try and check your tires at least once a month as all tires will gradually lose air over time (approximately 1 psi per month). Its worth noting that tires can also experience a pressure drop in cold weather so it’s advisable to check your tires pressure when they are cold. When tires warm up the air inside also heats up expands in the process, which in turn can give you a false pressure reading.

3. Empty your van
Avoid carrying any unnecessary equipment and tools in your van for any given job as the more weight you carry the more fuel your journey will consume. De-clutter your van as much as possible so not only do you increase your fuel efficiency but you decrease both the vans breaking distance and the change of theft from your vehicle.

4. Remove any exterior racks
If you have a roof rack on your van that’s not regularly used it will be more fuel efficient to add it to your van as and when needed as a roof rack will greatly increase wind resistance.

5. Reduce drain on battery
Air-conditioning, rear window heaters and demisters all use up extra fuel a 2010 report by the AA suggested that using both front and rear demisters could increase your vehicles fuel consumption by 6%. Leaving your vehicle to idle while the van heaters clear your windows is both a waste of fuel and an unnecessary creator of pollution. If your windows are full of ice or condensation then spend a few extra minutes before you set out scraping the frost, or clearing the condensation with a cloth. In warm weather using air conditioning whilst driving at a low speed will be less economical than opening the window and letting the fresh air cool your down. If you are driving on the motorway at high speeds on the other hand, air conditioning will likely be more cost effective than having all the windows down.

6. Service at regular intervals
Keeping your van engine in peak physical condition by having a servicing at regular intervals will ensure that your van is running at its highest efficiency.

7. Top up regularly
Driving around with a full tank of fuel increases the weight of your van which in turn burns more fuel. If possible try and fill up small amounts more often as the less fuel your van carries around the more efficient it is. The exception to this rule may be if you are out and about on the motorway where fuel prices can be extortionate, it will undoubtedly be cheaper to ensure that you have enough fuel to see your days work through than to fill up at these services.

8. Downsize
If you only need the capacity of a large van a handful of times a year, it may be cheaper to downsize the van you use on a daily basis and hire a larger one as and when needed. A small van will be a lot more fuel efficient than a large heavy van even if you have the same size engine in both as you are carrying less weight around.

9. Reduce your speed
If you are up and down the motorway in your van there is a tendency to put your foot down to get there a little quicker, so you may be surprised to know how much extra the few minutes gained will actually cost you. According to the Department for Transport, driving at 70mph uses up to 9% more fuel than at 60mph and up to 15% more than at 50mph. Cruising at 80mph can use up to 25% more fuel than at 70mph.

10. Plan ahead and don’t get lost
Knowing your route before you set off on your journey can save a lot of time and wasted fuel if you get lost and end up driving miles out of the way. Be sure to check a route planner or a sat-nav equipped with real-time traffic alerts before you leave to ensure that you avoid any unnecessary traffic jams.

11. Economical driving
The most economical way to drive is to try and cut out any sudden stopping or acceleration so that your driving is as smooth as possible, as harsh breaking and heavy acceleration will drink up your fuel. Starting and stopping also uses more fuel so try and leave some distance between you and the driver in front, so that you can gradually slow or even roll along without stopping which is ideal. When driving try and use the highest gear that the engine is comfortable in for the speed you are doing this means changing up a gear at approximately 2000 rpm for a diesel and 2500 rpm for a petrol engine.

12. Conserving fuel
If you do happen to get caught in a traffic jam or long queue for more than 3 minutes turn off the engine to not only save fuel but reduce pollution in the process.

How many passengers?
As a basic rule of thumb most small vans will only have a driver and passenger seat, where as transit van size and above usually have a row of three seats. If you require more seats the next size up would be a crew van which is basically a van with a second row of seats much like a car. Because of a vans extra width, a crew can usually accommodate up to 6 passengers, behind which will be the cargo area. For the safety of any passengers travelling in the van you need to ensure that a full length steel bulkhead is fitted between the passengers and any cargo. A bulkhead will usually come as standard on most vans however some come with half height bulkheads which are acceptable as long as the load height falls below the barrier. If more than 6 seats are required then a minibus may be your best option which can be found in 9, 12, 15 and 17 seat versions.

What will the van carry?
Most van models come in a choice of wheel base lengths and heights to ensure that there is a big enough cargo area to hold the goods you intend to carry. Each van will also have a payload capacity, which is the maximum weight load the van can carry. Even though the van can carry a certain weight you need to be aware that there is also a maximum weight you can load on the front and back axles of a van. Before purchasing a big van consider how often will the van be carrying a heavy load? If it’s only a few times a year it may be cheaper to look at purchasing a smaller van with lower running costs and just hire a large van for a specific job as and when required. Transport police have the legal power to be able to pull a van over at any time and take it to the nearest weigh bridge. If the van is found to exceed any of these weight restrictions both the company and driver can receive a hefty fine, so get the right van for the job.

How will the van be loaded?
Along with having a big enough payload capacity and cargo space for your needs, you also need to consider how you will get the goods into the van in the first place. Depending on the method of loading your van whether it’s by fork lift truck, manually or even by crane if it’s a tipper or drop side van you need to ensure that your van has the correct access. Most vans come as standard with one sliding door, but you can have a door on both sides of the van if needed on a number of models. A vans rear doors can also differ and if you have to load up in a tight space having a van that has rear doors that only open up to 180° as opposed to 270° which is fully open can be a major inconvenience. If you are looking at a Luton van which is perfect for furniture removals, will a tail lift make your life much easier; if so don’t forget that the weight of the lift will mean a reduction in the payload that the van can carry.

Price
Price is a determining factor for every business we all have a budget to stick to which can sometimes mean that the van we want and the van we can afford aren’t the same. There are alternatives to purchasing a van outright such as leasing or hire purchase deal. They may not suit everyone but if yours is one of those businesses that will be looking to change their van every 3-4 years then its worth considering a lease or hire purchase deal. With a van leasing agreement you are only renting the van for a fixed period, where at the end of the lease you just hand the van back. Because you aren’t buying the van just paying for the depreciation of the van over the fixed duration, your monthly payments will be a lot lower enabling you to afford a better quality of van for your budget.

Fuel Economy
It’s a good idea to calculate a rough estimate of the monthly/weekly mileage the van you intend to purchase will cover. If you are interested in a number of models there are places online where you can get an estimate of the vans MPG which should enable you to work out the running costs for each van. You may be surprised to find that some vans are a lot more economical than others which can make a big difference to your pocket over the year. Finding an economical van has never been more important than now especially with escalating fuel costs, who knows how much the price at the pump will have risen to by the end of the year.

How comfortable is the van to drive?
You wouldn’t buy a pair of shoes without trying them on first the same should be said about a van because for many people they will be sitting in it for longer than they will be standing each day. Vans much like people come in all shapes and sizes which mean that your comfort level may differ greatly from one van to another dependent on your build and height. So make sure you try before you buy!

What Features do you need?
Vans these days come with a long list of available features depending on the make and model, some will come as standard while you have to pay extra for others. This will differ on all makes and models, where what’s standard on one van may be an extra cost on another. Work out exactly what you need your van to have, along with what you would like to have and then compare all the vans you have short-listed. If you are in and out of the van all the time features like remote central locking can be extremely handy, while safety features like ABS, TCS and airbags can certainly make a journey a lot safer.

Speak to an expert
If after looking at all your options you are still unsure then speak to a van specialist as that’s what they are there for at the end of the day, listening to your needs and giving advice to find the best van to suit your requirements. Just remember that once you have worked out how much your budget can afford stick to that figure and don’t go over it.