Quality Farm Supply - News

Why We're Done with Steel Sieves — And You Should Be Too

2026-07-14T09:00:16-05:00

If you've ever pulled a warped chaffer out of your combine at the start of harvest, you know the frustration. Steel components bend, rust, and wear — and they always seem to fail at the worst possible moment. That's why more and more farmers are making the switch to Harvest Services plastic bottom sieves, chaffers, and air foils. And once they do, they don't go back.

They're Lighter Than You Think — And That Matters

Steel is heavy. And all that weight takes a toll on your combine's cleaning shoe drive, bearings, and frame over thousands of hours of operation. Harvest Services plastic components are significantly lighter, which means less stress on your machine, less vibration, and fewer surprise breakdowns during the middle of a run. Your combine works hard enough — no need to make it carry extra weight.

Rust? Not a Problem.

Combines sit. They get wet. They go through seasons of dew, rain, and humidity. Steel rusts — and once a louver warps or a sieve stiffens up, your cleaning performance suffers. Plastic doesn't corrode. Your Harvest Services components will come out of storage next fall looking and performing exactly like they went in.

A Cleaner Sample, Every Time

Here's something most farmers don't think about: steel sieves are stamped, and stamping isn't perfect. Louver angles vary. Openings aren't always consistent. Plastic molding, on the other hand, produces the same geometry every single time. That consistency means more predictable airflow, better grain-to-chaff separation, and a cleaner sample out of the back of the machine. Less grain loss. Better quality. Every load.

Quieter. Seriously.

Run a combine with plastic cleaning components and you'll notice it immediately — it's quieter. That might sound like a small thing, but when you're in the cab for 14 hours a day, it matters. And a quieter machine makes it easier to hear when something else isn't right.

Drop-In Fit. No Headaches.

Harvest Services components are engineered as direct OEM replacements for John Deere, Case IH, New Holland, Gleaner, Massey Ferguson, and more. No modifications. No fabrication. Pull the old ones out, drop the new ones in, and get back to harvesting.

The Bottom Line

Better cleaning performance. Less machine wear. No rust. Quieter operation. And a fit that works right out of the box. Harvest Services plastic sieves, chaffers, and air foils aren't just a replacement — they're an upgrade.

👉 Ready to make the switch? Shop Harvest Services components at qualityfarmsupply.com

Combine Harvest Readiness Checklist

2026-06-29T12:35:39-05:00

Stay Running When It Matters Most

Around here, harvest windows don't give second chances. When the combine stops, everything else does too.

The growers who finish strong aren't scrambling in October—they're dialed in before the first field. A solid pre-season inspection is one of the simplest ways to protect your time, your yield, and your bottom line.

Use this QFS checklist to go through your machine front to back—so you're fixing things now, not in the middle of a perfect day.

1. Engine & Fluids — Start With the Basics

If it doesn't run right, nothing else matters.

Check engine oil level and condition (change if questionable)
Inspect coolant and confirm proper protection levels
Check hydraulic fluid for level and contamination
Replace fuel filters if you didn't at the end of last season
Check air system and clean or replace pre-cleaner
Inspect hoses and clamps for leaks, cracks, or soft spots
Verify DEF system is full and functioning (if equipped)
Check gearbox and feederhouse oil levels

💡 Tip: Fluids are cheap. Downtime isn't.

2. Belts & Chains — Prevent Easy Breakdowns

This is where small wear turns into big headaches.

Inspect belts for cracking, glazing, or fraying
Check tension across all major drives
Inspect and lubricate chains; replace any stretched sections
Check feederhouse chain alignment, tension, and slats
Clean out the stone trap before it becomes a problem

💡 If it looks "almost worn," it won't make it through harvest.

3. Header & Platform — Where Yield Is Made

Your header sets the pace for the entire operation.

Inspect knives, guards, and hold-downs
Replace worn cutting components—don't gamble here
Check reel condition and drive systems
Inspect auger flighting and fingers
Adjust header tilt and float for crop conditions
Check draper belts (if equipped) for tracking and tension
On corn heads: inspect deck plates, chains, and snapping rolls
Grease everything per spec

💡 Most harvest loss starts at the header—not inside the combine.

4. Threshing & Separation — Protect Your Bushels

Loss here is hard to see—and expensive.

Inspect concaves for wear or damage
Check rotor/cylinder for missing or worn components
Set concave clearance for your crop ahead of time
Inspect grates and walkers
Check chopper blades and replace as needed

5. Cleaning System — Keep Grain Clean

Efficiency here impacts both yield and quality.

Straighten or replace damaged sieve sections
Inspect fan blades and confirm speed control
Check clean grain and tailings elevator systems
Verify tailings return is operating properly
Clean out all leftover debris from last season

6. Grain Handling — Keep It Moving

Unloading issues cost more time than you think.

Inspect grain tank for cracks or leftover grain
Check auger flighting, tubes, and drive components
Test auger swing/fold functions
Clean and calibrate grain loss sensors
Verify yield and moisture monitors are reading correctly

7. Electrical & Controls — Avoid Frustration

Electrical issues never happen at a convenient time.

Test all lights (field and road)
Inspect wiring for rodent damage or wear
Check all cab controls and displays
Verify GPS and auto-steer calibration
Clean battery terminals and test charge
Test safety shutdown systems

8. Tires, Tracks & Undercarriage — Stay Mobile

Don't overlook what keeps you moving.

Check tire pressure and condition
Inspect for cracks, cuts, or excessive wear
For tracks: inspect tension and rollers
Re-check wheel torque after initial run time

9. Cab — Get Ready for Long Days

You'll spend a lot of hours here—make it count.

Clean out dust and debris
Replace cab air filter if needed
Test heat and A/C
Inspect seat belt and safety switches
Confirm fire extinguisher is ready
Stock tools, fuses, and operator manual

10. Safety — No Shortcuts

Protect yourself and anyone around your operation.

Replace missing or damaged shields
Check SMV emblem visibility
Verify decals are legible
Test backup alarm
Make sure everyone knows safety procedures

11. Run It Before You Need It

Don't wait for the field to find issues.

Start and warm up completely
Listen for anything unusual
Cycle all systems
Check for leaks under load
Make a short test pass if possible
Re-check fluids after the first hour

Stock the Parts That Keep You Running

Even with a perfect inspection, parts wear out. The difference is whether you're prepared.

What we recommend every customer keeps on hand:

Knife sections and guards
Key drive belts
Chain links and repair sections
Fuses and relays
Hydraulic fittings and hose repair parts
Grease and fluids

Why QFS Customers Stay Running

Most downtime isn't caused by major failure—it's waiting on parts.

At Quality Farm Supply, we focus on the wear parts and critical components that keep combines moving during harvest. When something goes down, you don't have time to "order it and wait."

Baler Belt Lacing: Which Type Is Right for Your Operation?

2026-06-17T07:00:05-05:00

When a baler belt lets go in the middle of hay season, most operators focus on getting a new belt ordered fast — but the lacing holding that belt together deserves just as much attention. The wrong lacing choice can lead to premature belt failure, tracking problems, and costly downtime. The right one can add hundreds of hours to the life of your belts.

Here’s a breakdown of the most common types of baler belt lacing and what each one does best.

1. Alligator Lacing (Rivet-Hinged)

Best For: General-purpose round and square baling, quick field repairs.

Alligator lacing is the most widely used belt lacing in agriculture — and for good reason. It’s fast to install, widely available, and strong enough for most hay and straw applications.

How it Works: A series of interlocking metal staples are driven through the belt ends and crimped in place, then connected by a hinge pin. The result is a flexible, low-profile joint that tracks cleanly through most baler systems.

Best Application: Alligator lacing is the go-to choice for operators who need a reliable, easy-to-install solution across a variety of belt widths and thicknesses. It’s also the best option for emergency field repairs — most farmers carry a roll in the toolbox.

The Advantage: Fast installation with basic tools. No press required.

2. Clipper Lacing (Wire Hook Style)

Best For: High-tension applications, square balers, and heavy-duty commercial use.

Clipper lacing uses a series of wire hooks that are driven through the belt and folded over, then connected by a hinge pin. The hooks create a stronger mechanical grip on the belt face than standard alligator staples.

How it Works: The wire hooks bite deeper into the belt carcass, distributing tension across a wider surface area. This makes Clipper lacing significantly stronger under high-load conditions.

Best Application: Square balers and high-density round balers that run belts under extreme tension. Also recommended for wider belts where belt tracking and joint integrity are critical.

The Advantage: Higher tensile strength than standard alligator lacing — better suited for demanding commercial operations.

3. Flexco Lacing (Plate-Style / Bolted)

Best For: Long-run commercial operations, maximum belt life, and permanent installations.

Flexco plate lacing uses metal plates that are bolted or riveted through the belt ends, creating the strongest and most durable joint available for agricultural belting.

How it Works: Steel plates sandwich both sides of the belt end and are secured with bolts or rivets. The result is a joint that approaches the tensile strength of the belt itself.

Best Application: High-volume commercial hay operations running belts continuously through long seasons. Also ideal for belts that are difficult to replace mid-season due to machine access or labor constraints.

The Advantage: Maximum joint strength and longevity. The best choice when downtime is not an option.

4. Lace-Style (Spiral / Zigzag) Lacing

Best For: Older baler models, smooth belts, and specialty applications.

Spiral or lace-style lacing uses a continuous wire or plastic coil that weaves through loops on both belt ends, similar to a shoelace. It creates a very flexible, low-profile joint.

How it Works: Loops are punched or formed along both belt ends, and a spiral coil is threaded through to connect them. The joint flexes easily in multiple directions.

Best Application: Older baler designs with tight pulley configurations where a rigid joint would cause tracking issues. Also used on smooth belts where other lacing types may not grip the belt face adequately.

The Advantage: Extremely flexible joint with a very low profile — ideal for tight wrap angles and small-diameter pulleys.

Key Factors When Choosing Baler Belt Lacing

Beyond the lacing type, keep these factors in mind:

Belt thickness — lacing must match the belt gauge for proper seating and strength
Belt width — wider belts require more lacing segments and higher-rated hardware
Pulley diameter — tight wrap angles demand more flexible lacing styles
Crop type and moisture — high-moisture silage puts more stress on joints than dry hay
Installation tools available — some lacing requires a press; others install with a hammer

Don’t Let a Failed Joint Halt Your Harvest

The best belt in the world is only as strong as its lacing. At Quality Farm Supply, we stock a complete selection of baler belt lacing and accessories — including Alligator, Clipper, and specialty lacing in a range of sizes and ratings — so you can keep your belts running strong all season long.

👉 Shop Baler Belt Lacing & Accessories

👉 Shop All Baler Belts

Round Baler Belts: Which Tread Design is Right for Your Field?

2026-06-16T06:00:10-05:00

When it comes to keeping your round baler rolling smoothly through hay season, your choice of baler belts is one of the most critical decisions you'll make. But choosing a replacement belt isn't just about matching the correct width and length for your John Deere, Vermeer, or New Holland machine—it's also about choosing the right tread pattern.

The texture on the surface of your baler belts directly impacts how quickly a bale starts spinning, how tightly it packs, and how well the machine handles different crop moistures. Running the wrong tread can lead to core-starting failures, belt slippage, or excessive leaf loss.

To help you maximize your tonnage and minimize field downtime, let's break down the most common types of baler belt treads and what each one does best.

1. Diamond Top Belting

Best For: All-around versatility, dry hay, and high-volume operations.

The Diamond Top pattern is the undisputed industry standard for modern round baling. Featuring a continuous grid of raised, diamond-shaped profiles, this design offers an incredible balance of aggressive grip and smooth operation.

How it Works: The diamond texture provides thousands of tiny gripping edges that bite into the crop immediately. This ensures a fast, reliable core start in the chamber, which is crucial for building dense, uniform bales.

Best Application: If you bale a mix of alfalfa, clover, and grass hays across varying conditions, Diamond Top is your go-to choice. It performs exceptionally well in dry, slick grasses that traditional smooth belts struggle to grab.

The Advantage: It cleans itself remarkably well, resisting the buildup of sticky crop residue that can cause belt tracking issues.

2. Chevron Top (Rough Top / V-Cutter) Belting

Best For: High-moisture silage, heavy crops, and demanding commercial use.

Chevron or V-tread belts feature distinct, raised “V” shapes molded directly into the rubber. This is the heavy-duty workhorse pattern of the hay world, designed for maximum mechanical traction.

How it Works: The raised ridges act like paddles, aggressively pulling crop material into the chamber and forcing the bale to turn under heavy pressure.

Best Application: This pattern is highly recommended for silage and wet baling. High-moisture hay is heavy and naturally slick; Chevron belts provide the raw mechanical grip needed to prevent the bale from stalling in the chamber under extreme weight.

The Advantage: Unbeatable core starting in tough, heavy, or springy residue (like corn stalks).

3. Mini Rough Top (Continuous Pattern) Belting

Best For: Delicate forage crops, high leaf-retention, and budget-conscious maintenance.

Mini Rough Top belting features a fine, uniform pebbled or textured surface. It provides a more subtle grip compared to deep diamonds or heavy chevrons.

How it Works: The low-profile texture provides enough friction to keep the bale turning smoothly without aggressively puncturing or tearing the crop material.

Best Application: Ideal for high-quality legume crops like pure alfalfa or clover where leaf retention is paramount. Because the texture is less aggressive, it minimizes “leaf shatter”—keeping the most nutrient-dense part of the plant inside the bale rather than dropping it on the chamber floor.

The Advantage: Gentle on premium forage while still offering significantly better traction than a completely smooth belt.

4. Smooth Belting

Best For: Older baler models, utility baling, and highly abrasive soils.

While most modern balers have transitioned to textured belts, many classic machines still rely on traditional smooth surface belting.

How it Works: Smooth belts rely purely on the tension of the baler’s hydraulic or spring system to create friction against the bale.

Best Application: Best suited for traditional dry utility grass hays or operations running older vintage balers engineered specifically for smooth tracking. They are also highly durable in sandy or rocky soils, as there are no raised profiles to chip or wear down from abrasive dust.

The Advantage: Exceptionally long wear life and highly economical, though they require ideal crop moisture to prevent core-starting slips.

Don’t Let a Worn Belt Halt Your Harvest

No matter which tread fits your operation, running belts past their prime is a recipe for field failure. Over time, textures wear smooth, edges fray, and lacing weakens—usually letting go at the worst possible moment.

At Quality Farm Supply, we stock a complete selection of premium, OEM-spec replacement round baler belts and Baler Belt Lacing & Accessories to ensure you spend less time turning wrenches and more time rolling hay.

Ready to upgrade your grip this season? Browse our full selection of Baler Belts or contact our parts experts to find the exact match for your machine.

Kondex KX7 Concaves: How Upgrading Your Concaves Can Improve Your Harvest Yields

2026-06-15T09:10:17-05:00

Introduction

When harvest season arrives, every bushel counts. And while most operators focus on header setup, ground speed, and rotor settings, one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your combine is often overlooked: the concaves.

Kondex KX7 concaves have earned a strong reputation among serious grain farmers for delivering cleaner separation, reduced grain loss, and better performance across a wide range of crop conditions. Here’s what you need to know.

What Are Concaves — and Why Do They Matter?

Concaves are the curved grates that wrap around the rotor or cylinder inside your combine. As crop material passes through, the concaves work with the rotor to thresh grain from the plant material. The quality of your concaves directly affects:

Threshing efficiency — how completely grain is separated from the cob, head, or pod
Grain loss — how much good grain passes over the sieves and out the back of the machine
Crop damage — cracked kernels reduce grade and dockage at the elevator
Throughput capacity — better concaves let you push higher ground speeds without sacrificing separation quality

The KX7 System: MaxThresh and MaxRound

The Kondex KX7 system is built around two complementary concave assemblies — each engineered for a specific role in the threshing chamber.

KX7 MaxThresh Concaves

KX7 MaxThresh concaves deliver a better, faster thresh than large-wire or small-wire concaves. The key is an angled-bar design that meets the crop head-on for more aggressive, immediate threshing. To protect against wear while softening contact, Kondex applies a laser cladding additive to the threshing bars — extending performance and life well beyond other high-wear options.

MaxThresh assemblies should be placed in the frontmost positions in your threshing chamber. This achieves earlier threshing and allows for more separation as your crop flows through.

KX7 MaxRound Concaves

KX7 MaxRound concaves also feature an angled-bar design for some threshing, but their primary function is separation. They’ve proven highly effective at preventing plugging, which directly lowers rotor loss. MaxRound bars are heat-treated for a 25% improvement in wear resistance over non-heat-treated concaves.

MaxRound assemblies should always be placed behind MaxThresh concaves to maximize separation performance.

How KX7 Makes You More Productive

The angled-bar design of both KX7 assemblies meets the crop head-on for more immediate threshing — increasing the overall capacity of your combine. This allows you to:

Raise your concave clearance
Reduce wear on your rotor
Gain more flexibility to fine-tune settings
Achieve more grain-on-grain threshing through increased airflow disruption

Greater Customization

At half the width of most traditional concaves, KX7 doubles your configuration options. Choose from MaxThresh and MaxRound assemblies, each with removable, replaceable, and reversible box inserts. This gives you the unique flexibility to customize your combine’s threshing chamber by crop type or field condition — something traditional concaves simply can’t match.

Precision Manufacturing

Every KX7 concave is robotically manufactured, with welds individually inspected by American Welding Society (AWS)-qualified welders. Kondex’s ISO-certified quality assurance process includes rigorous visual and robotic testing to ensure each component meets or exceeds expectations for fit and performance.

Which Crops Benefit Most?

KX7 concaves are particularly well-suited for:

Corn — improved separation in high-yield, high-moisture conditions
Soybeans — cleaner threshing with less pod shatter and cracked beans
Wheat and small grains — consistent bar spacing improves separation without over-threshing
Specialty crops — the reduced-aggression design is a strong fit for crops where sample quality is critical

Is It Time to Upgrade?

If your current concaves are showing wear, or if you’ve been accepting grain loss and cracked samples as “just part of harvest,” it may be time to take a closer look at what’s happening inside your combine.

Signs it’s time to replace or upgrade your concaves:

Visible wear on the bars or wires
Increasing grain loss at the rear of the machine
Elevated cracked grain percentages at the elevator
Inconsistent threshing across the width of the rotor

Shop Kondex KX7 Concaves at Quality Farm Supply

Quality Farm Supply stocks Kondex KX7 concaves for a wide range of combine makes and models. Our team can help you identify the right fit for your machine and crop mix.

👉 Shop Kondex KX7 Concaves — Click Here

Have questions? Contact our parts team — we’re here to help you get the most out of every acre.

How to Determine the Proper Wheel and Tire Size for Your Hay Tedder

2026-06-11T06:51:39-05:00

When hay season hits, timing is everything. You need your equipment running at peak performance to maximize nutritional value before the weather turns. The humble hay tedder plays a critical role in speed-drying your crop, but it can’t do its job effectively if it’s riding on the wrong rubber.

Operating a tedder with incorrect or worn-out wheels and tires leads to uneven fluffing, increased field debris in your hay, and unnecessary structural stress on the machine’s frame and gearboxes.

Whether you are running a classic John Deere, a high-capacity New Holland, or a precision Kuhn tedder, here is exactly how to determine and select the proper wheel and tire size for your equipment.

Selecting the Right Hay Tedder Tire

To find your hay tedder tire size, first check the sidewall for manufacturer markings (e.g., 15x6.00-6). If the text is worn off, use a tape measure while the tire is inflated to determine the overall diameter, section width, and rim size.

Step 1: Identify the Sidewall Numbers

Most implement and garden tires use a 3-number format (e.g., 16x6.50-8):

First Number — The overall outside height/diameter of the tire in inches (e.g., 16")
Second Number — The width of the tire section in inches (e.g., 6.50")
Third Number — The diameter of the wheel/rim in inches (e.g., 8")

Step 2: Manual Measurement

If the sidewall is illegible, measure the tire dimensions by hand while the tire is inflated:

Section Width — Use a tape measure across the widest part of the tire (sidewall to sidewall)
Overall Diameter — Measure straight across the center of the tire from the very top tread edge to the very bottom tread edge
Wheel/Rim Diameter — Measure from the inside bead lip on one side of the rim to the inside bead lip on the opposite side

Step 3: Ply Rating and Tread

Once you have your size, confirm the ply rating meets or exceeds OEM spec. For most modern high-capacity tedders, a 6-Ply (Heavy-Duty) tire is recommended for puncture resistance on rough terrain. Look for a smooth, ribbed, or turf tread pattern — tedder tires need to float over stubble, not dig in like a tractor tire.

Specification	Example Value
Tire Size	15" x 6.00-6 or 16" x 6.50-8
Overall Diameter	15" or 16"
Section Width	6.00" or 6.50"
Rim Diameter	6" or 8"
Ply Rating	6-Ply (Heavy-Duty recommended)
Tread Type	Smooth, Ribbed, or Turf

Selecting the Right Hay Tedder Wheel for Wheels That Slide Onto A Smooth Axle Spindle

If you are replacing the entire wheel and tire assembly — which is highly recommended to save time and eliminate the headache of mounting small pneumatic tires — you must ensure the steel wheel matches your tedder’s axle hub. Standard tedder wheels (like common 16x6.50-8 or 15x6.00-6 assemblies) rely on specific hub dimensions to fit correctly onto the frame.

Step 1: Hub Length

This is the most critical measurement to ensure the wheel does not slide on the axle or stick out too far. Measure from one outer edge of the wheel bearing (or hub) to the other outer edge, straight through the center.

Measure from one outer edge of the wheel bearing (or hub) to the other outer edge, straight through the center.

This is the width of the hole that runs through the center of the wheel. Usually measured by passing a pencil through and measuring the span.

Common hub lengths for hay tedders are typically around 2" to 3.25". For example, a common Hay Tedder Wheel & Tire Assembly — 16" x 8", 6-Ply — has a hub length of 3.18".

Step 2: Axle Bore (Bearing I.D.)

Measure the inside diameter of the wheel bearing to determine the size of the axle spindle it fits onto. Most standard tedders use a 1" bore (25 mm). This must match your axle spindle precisely to prevent wobbling or premature bearing failure.

Measure the inside diameter of the bearing (the hole the axles slides into) to ensure the new wheel will sit properly on your tedder’s axle.

Selecting the Right Hay Tedder Wheel for Wheels that use a Bolt-On Rim

Step 1: Bolt Pattern

If your wheel uses lug bolts rather than an integrated bearing hub, verify the bolt circle and lug count. Most smaller implements use a standard 4-bolt or 5-bolt pattern.

Measure the dimension from the one lug hole directly to the center of the opposite lug hole. You only need to know the bolt hole measurements if you hay tedder uses a bolt-on wheel rim rather than a smooth axle slide-on pin.

Step 2: Measure the Pilot (Center Hole) Diameter

(For non-bearing hugs or pilot mounted wheels). This opening must precisely match the axle spindle outside diameter.

You only need to know the bolt hole measurements if you hay tedder uses a bolt-on wheel rim rather than a smooth axle slide-on pin.

Specification	Example Value
Hub Length	2" – 3.25" (e.g., 3.18" common)
Axle Bore (Bearing I.D.)	1" (25 mm) standard
Bolt Pattern	4-bolt or 5-bolt (if applicable)
Pilot/Center Hole Diameter	Must match axle spindle O.D.

Summary: Full Measurement Checklist

Before ordering your replacement tire or wheel assembly, have these specs confirmed:

Measurement	Where to Find It	Example
Tire Size	Sidewall markings or manual measure	16" x 6.50-8
Ply Rating	Sidewall markings	6-Ply
Hub Length	Measure bearing-to-bearing through center	3.18"
Axle Bore	Inside diameter of bearing/center hole	1" (25 mm)
Bolt Pattern	Count lugs, measure bolt circle	4-bolt standard

By keeping these dimensions aligned with your specific manufacturer’s guidelines, you’ll guarantee a smooth ride, pristine hay, and a machine that’s ready to work hard all season long.

Looking for a rugged, field-ready replacement? Quality Farm Supply stocks premium, heavy-duty wheel and tire assemblies built specifically to endure the demanding conditions of hay tool maintenance.

Get Your Stripper Header Ready Before Wheat Harvest Shuts You Down

2026-06-05T13:30:05-05:00

Wheat harvest waits for no one. When the crop is ready, you have a narrow window — and a stripper header that isn't performing at 100% will cost you bushels on every pass. Worn stripper bats, damaged rotor components, out-of-spec rotor speed, and neglected bearings are the most common causes of yield loss and mid-harvest breakdowns on stripper-equipped combines.

This guide covers everything you need to inspect, adjust, and replace on your stripper header before you make your first pass of the season.

How a Stripper Header Works — And Why Maintenance Matters

Unlike a conventional cutting header, a stripper header doesn't sever the crop at the stem. Instead, a high-speed rotor fitted with flexible stripper bats combs through the standing crop, stripping the grain heads directly from the stalk and leaving the straw standing in the field.

The advantages are significant — higher ground speeds, dramatically reduced straw volume entering the combine, lower fuel consumption, and better performance in lodged or tangled crops. But the stripper rotor and its components operate under high rotational stress and constant crop contact, making regular inspection and timely replacement critical to maintaining those advantages.

Stripper Bats — The Highest-Wear Component

The stripper bats are the flexible rubber or polyurethane fingers mounted on the rotor that do the actual stripping work. They take a beating every hour of operation — flexing thousands of times per minute against standing crop at high rotor speeds.

What to inspect:

Bat length — worn bats that have shortened from abrasion reduce stripping efficiency and increase grain loss. Measure bat length against the manufacturer's specification and replace any bat that is more than 10–15% shorter than spec
Bat cracking or tearing — cracks at the base of the bat are a sign of fatigue; a bat that tears off in the field can cause rotor imbalance and secondary damage
Bat stiffness — bats that have hardened from UV exposure or age lose the flexibility needed for clean stripping; they grab and pull rather than flex and release
Bat spacing and alignment — confirm all bats are seated correctly in their mounting slots and that spacing is uniform around the rotor

When to replace:

Replace bats as a complete set — not individually. Mismatched bat lengths and stiffness levels create rotor imbalance, uneven stripping, and accelerated wear on the newer bats. If more than 20% of your bats are worn or damaged, replace the full set before the season starts.

Rotor Inspection — Speed, Balance, and Condition

The stripper rotor is the heart of the header. Rotor speed is the single most important operating parameter for stripping efficiency — too slow and you leave grain on the stalk; too fast and you increase shattering loss.

Rotor speed:

Confirm rotor RPM against the manufacturer's specification for your crop type and conditions. Most stripper headers operate in the 700–900 RPM range for wheat, but consult your operator's manual for your specific header
Check drive belt condition and tension — a slipping belt causes rotor speed to drop under load without any obvious indication from the cab
Inspect the rotor speed sensor if your header is equipped with one; a faulty sensor can mask actual speed variation

Rotor condition:

Inspect the rotor tube for dents, bends, or cracks — rotor damage from rock strikes can cause vibration and imbalance
Check all bat mounting slots for wear or deformation; a worn slot allows bats to shift position during operation
Inspect rotor end caps and mounting hardware for wear and security

Bearings — The Most Overlooked Failure Point

Bearing failure is the most common cause of mid-harvest stripper header breakdowns — and the most preventable. Bearings on the rotor, auger, and reel operate under continuous load and high rotational speed throughout harvest.

Pre-season bearing inspection:

Rotate the rotor, auger, and reel by hand and listen for grinding, roughness, or irregular resistance — any of these indicate a bearing that needs replacement before the season
Check for excessive radial or axial play at each bearing location — movement beyond manufacturer tolerance means the bearing is worn
Inspect bearing housings for cracks, corrosion, or seal damage that allows contamination

Lubrication:

Grease all fittings per the manufacturer's schedule — most stripper header bearings require greasing every 50–100 hours of operation
Use the correct grease specification for your header; mixing grease types can cause seal degradation and premature bearing failure
Don't over-grease — excess grease pressure can damage seals and introduce contamination

Replace proactively:

If a bearing showed any roughness or noise last season, replace it before this season starts. A bearing that makes it through one harvest may not make it through the next — and a bearing failure at peak harvest is far more expensive than a proactive replacement in the shop.

Crop Dividers, Auger, and Feed System

Crop dividers:

Inspect divider points for bends or damage from rock strikes — a bent divider disrupts crop flow into the rotor and can cause uneven stripping across the header width
Check divider mounting hardware for security; loose dividers vibrate and fatigue their mounting points

Auger and feed system:

Inspect auger flighting for wear, bends, or cracks — worn flighting reduces feeding efficiency and can cause crop to bunch at the feeder house transition
Check auger finger condition and retraction timing — fingers that don't retract properly at the correct position cause crop to wrap around the auger
Inspect the feeder house transition area for wear or buildup that restricts crop flow

Header tilt and float:

Verify header tilt and float settings are within spec for your field conditions — a header that doesn't float properly over uneven ground causes the rotor to run at inconsistent height, affecting stripping uniformity
Check all hydraulic cylinders and hoses for leaks or restricted movement

Pre-Harvest Setup Checklist

Use this checklist before your first pass of the season:

Inspect and measure all stripper bats — replace full set if worn or damaged
Verify rotor RPM against manufacturer spec
Check drive belt condition and tension
Inspect rotor tube, mounting slots, and end caps
Rotate all bearings by hand — check for roughness or play
Grease all fittings per manufacturer schedule
Inspect crop dividers for damage and security
Check auger flighting and finger condition
Verify header tilt, float, and hydraulic function
Confirm all guards and shields are in place
Run the header at operating speed before entering the field — listen for vibration, noise, or irregular operation

A stripper header is one of the most efficient tools in small grain harvesting — but only when it's properly maintained and set up. Worn bats, neglected bearings, and out-of-spec rotor speed quietly cost you bushels on every pass without any obvious warning until something fails.

Quality Farm Supply stocks Shelbourne Reynolds stripper header finger kits. Our parts team can help you confirm the right fit for your specific header before you order.

Get your header ready now — before wheat harvest shuts you down.

Shop Shelbourne Reynolds Stripper Header Finger Kits - Click Here.

Hay Rake Maintenance Guide: How to Inspect, Replace & Set Up Your Rake Wheels

2026-06-03T12:50:32-05:00

Introduction

Your hay rake is one of the simplest machines on the farm — and one of the easiest to neglect. But worn rake wheels, bent tines, and improper setup cost you more than you think: scattered windrows, excessive leaf loss, slower curing times, and lower-quality bales. A few minutes of inspection and the right replacement parts before the season starts can save hours of frustration in the field.

This guide covers everything you need to know about inspecting your rake wheels, knowing when to replace them, and setting up your rake for clean, consistent windrows all season long.

Section 1: How to Inspect Your Rake Wheels

Before the first cutting, pull your rake out of storage and give every wheel a thorough inspection. Here's what to look for:

Tine condition

Check each tine for bends, cracks, or breaks. Even a few damaged tines per wheel will disrupt the raking pattern and cause uneven windrows.
Look for tines that have lost their original curve or tension — flat or straightened tines won't lift hay cleanly off the ground.
Replace any tine that is bent more than 15–20 degrees out of its original position.

Tine attachment points

Inspect the clips, bolts, or retaining rings that hold tines to the wheel hub. Loose or missing fasteners allow tines to shift position or eject during operation.
Replace any worn or missing hardware — tine hardware is inexpensive insurance against losing tines in the field.

Wheel hubs and bearings

Spin each wheel by hand and listen for grinding or roughness. A smooth, free-spinning wheel indicates good bearing condition.
Check for excessive play in the hub — side-to-side wobble indicates worn bearings that need replacement before the season starts.
Grease all hub fittings per the manufacturer's specification.

Wheel frame and arms

Inspect the wheel carrier arms for bends or cracks, especially if the rake hit rocks or debris last season.
Check all pivot points and linkages for wear and lubricate as needed.

Section 2: When to Replace Rake Wheels

Rake wheels don't last forever, and running worn wheels costs you hay quality and raking efficiency. Replace your rake wheels when:

More than 20–25% of tines are damaged or missing — at this point, the wheel is no longer raking evenly and you're losing hay with every pass
Tines are consistently breaking — repeated breakage often indicates metal fatigue; replacing individual tines on an old wheel is a losing battle
The wheel hub is cracked or the bearing seat is damaged — hub damage can't be repaired reliably in the field
The wheel is visibly out of round — a warped wheel creates an uneven raking pattern and puts stress on the carrier arm

When replacing wheels, replace in matched sets on each side of the rake to maintain balanced raking performance.

Section 3: Choosing the Right Replacement Rake Wheels

Not all rake wheels are interchangeable. When ordering replacements, confirm:

Wheel diameter — common sizes range from 44" to 52"; match your OEM specification
Tine count — more tines per wheel generally means finer, more thorough raking; match your original configuration
Tine style — standard, heavy-duty, and pickup tines are available depending on crop type and field conditions
Hub bolt pattern and bore — must match your rake's carrier arm mounting
OEM compatibility — confirm the wheel is rated for your rake brand and model (New Holland, Kuhn, Sitrex, H&S, Vermeer, and others all have specific fitments)

Quality Farm Supply stocks rake wheels and tines for a wide range of rake brands and models — if you're not sure what fits your machine, our team can help you find the right part.

Section 4: How to Set Up Your Rake Wheels for Best Performance

Proper rake wheel setup is just as important as the condition of the wheels themselves. A well-maintained rake that's improperly adjusted will still produce poor windrows.

Ground clearance and tine angle

Set tine ground clearance so tines just skim the surface without digging in. Tines that dig into the ground pick up dirt and debris, contaminating the windrow and increasing ash content in the bale.
Adjust tine angle per the manufacturer's recommendation for your crop type — a more aggressive angle moves more material but increases leaf loss in legumes like alfalfa.

Wheel overlap

On multi-wheel rakes, ensure adjacent wheels overlap slightly to avoid leaving strips of unraked hay between wheels.
Check overlap after any wheel replacement, as slight diameter differences between new and old wheels can create gaps.

Rake angle and windrow width

Adjust the rake angle to produce a windrow width appropriate for your baler pickup — too narrow and the baler struggles to pick up cleanly; too wide and the windrow won't cure evenly.
For rotary rakes, ensure both sides are set symmetrically to produce a centered, consistent windrow.

Ground speed

Match ground speed to crop volume and conditions. Too fast in heavy hay causes tines to throw material rather than roll it into a clean windrow, increasing leaf shatter in dry conditions.
Slow down in thin or dry crops to minimize loss.

Section 5: Seasonal Maintenance Checklist

Use this checklist at the start of each season and after every 50–75 hours of operation:

Inspect all tines — replace bent, broken, or fatigued tines
Check all tine fasteners — tighten or replace as needed
Grease all hub fittings
Spin each wheel by hand — check for bearing roughness or play
Inspect carrier arms and pivot points for wear or damage
Verify wheel overlap and ground clearance settings
Check rake angle and windrow width settings
Inspect hitch and transport components
Confirm all safety shields are in place

Conclusion

A well-maintained rake with properly set up wheels is one of the most cost-effective investments you can make in hay quality. Replacing worn tines and wheels before the season starts is far cheaper than the hay you'll lose — or the downtime you'll face — running worn equipment through your first cutting.

Quality Farm Supply stocks rake wheels, tines, and rake parts for a wide range of brands and models. Shop online or call our team — we'll help you find the right parts for your machine and get them to you fast.

AgSmart Cutting Sections — How to Select and Replace Sickle Sections for Hay Mowers and Combine Headers

2026-05-31T11:30:01-05:00

Don't let a worn sickle section cost you yield, downtime, or a broken knife drive. Cutting sections are one of the highest-wear components on any hay mower or combine header — and choosing the right replacement makes the difference between a clean, efficient cut and ragged crop loss. Here's everything you need to know about selecting and replacing AgSmart sickle sections.

What Are Sickle Sections and Why Do They Matter?

Sickle sections are the individual serrated or smooth-edged blades that bolt onto the sickle bar and do the actual cutting work. As the sickle bar reciprocates rapidly, each section shears crop against a stationary counter-knife (guard). When sections dull, chip, or crack, the result is:

Ragged, uneven cuts that stress plant stems and reduce regrowth in hay applications
Increased knife drive load, leading to premature pitman arm, wobble box, or drive belt wear
Crop pushing and bunching instead of clean shearing, especially in heavy or tough-stemmed crops
Missed grain at the header in small grains like wheat, barley, and oats

Replacing sections at the right interval — not just when they fail — is the most cost-effective maintenance habit you can build into your harvest season.

1. Selecting the Right AgSmart Section for Your Application

Not all sickle sections are created equal. AgSmart offers several section profiles designed for specific crop types and cutting conditions.

Standard Serrated Sections: The workhorse choice for most small grain and hay applications. The serrated edge grips and shears cleanly through dry, upright crop. Best for wheat, oats, barley, and dry alfalfa.
Smooth-Edge Sections: Preferred for green, tough-stemmed crops like soybeans or wet hay. The smooth edge slices rather than grabs, reducing wrapping and plugging in high-moisture conditions.
Hi-Lift Sections: Feature an upward-angled profile that lifts lodged or down crop into the cutting zone before shearing. Ideal for storm-damaged fields or heavily lodged small grains.
Coated/Hardened Sections: AgSmart's hardened sections use a specialized heat treatment or coating process to extend wear life significantly in abrasive, sandy, or rocky soil conditions where sections dull rapidly.

Key fit consideration: Always match the section to your sickle bar's bolt pattern (typically 1-1/2" or 3" spacing) and confirm compatibility with your specific header make and model before ordering in bulk.

2. Reading Wear — When to Replace

Visual inspection before and during the season is your first line of defense. Replace sections when you observe any of the following:

Chipped or missing teeth on serrated sections — even one missing tooth creates a dead zone that pushes rather than cuts
Rounded or polished edges — a shiny, smooth bevel on a serrated section means the hardened edge is gone
Cracks at the bolt holes — stress fractures here mean imminent breakage and potential damage to the sickle bar itself
Bent or warped sections — caused by rock strikes; a bent section will contact the guard unevenly and accelerate guard wear
Excessive crop pushing in the field — if you're seeing uncut stems or the header is working harder than usual, worn sections are often the culprit before any mechanical issue

Pro tip: Replace sections in sets across the full sickle bar rather than spot-replacing individual sections. Mismatched wear levels create uneven cutting load and accelerate wear on the newer sections.

3. Tools and Prep Before You Start

Replacing sickle sections is a straightforward job with the right setup. Gather the following before you begin:

Sickle section riveter or bolt kit (AgSmart sections are available in both riveted and bolted configurations)
Sickle bar clamp or vise to hold the bar steady during installation
Punch and hammer for driving out old rivets if applicable
Torque wrench for bolted sections — over-torquing cracks sections at the bolt hole
Wire brush and penetrating oil to free corroded fasteners on older bars
Safety gloves — sickle sections are razor-sharp even when worn

4. Step-by-Step Replacement Process

Step 1 — Disengage and lock out the header.
Lower the header to the ground, disengage the knife drive, and follow your machine's lockout/tagout procedure. Never work on a sickle bar without confirming the drive is fully disengaged.

Step 2 — Position the sickle bar for access.
Cycle the sickle bar by hand (with the machine off) to position the worn sections in an accessible location. Many technicians work from the front of the header with the header lowered flat.

Step 3 — Remove the worn section.
For bolted sections, remove the nut and bolt. For riveted sections, use a punch to drive out the rivet from the back side of the bar. Inspect the sickle bar at each location for cracks, burrs, or deformation before installing the new section.

Step 4 — Install the new AgSmart section.
Align the new section with the bolt holes in the sickle bar. For bolted installations, hand-thread the fastener first, then torque to spec (typically 8–12 ft-lbs — confirm with your header manual). For riveted installations, use a proper sickle riveter to set the rivet flush — a proud rivet will contact the guard and cause immediate damage.

Step 5 — Check guard alignment.
After replacing sections, manually cycle the sickle bar and verify each new section passes cleanly through its corresponding guard with minimal side play. Bent or misaligned guards should be replaced or straightened at the same time.

Step 6 — Inspect the knife drive components.
A full section replacement is the ideal time to inspect the pitman arm, wobble box oil level, and drive belt for wear. Catching these now prevents a mid-season breakdown.

5. Extending Section Life Between Replacements

A few operational habits can meaningfully extend the service life of your AgSmart sections:

Maintain proper cutting height — running too low increases soil and rock contact, the fastest way to dull or chip sections
Keep guards tight and properly aligned — a loose or bent guard creates uneven shear load on the section edge
Lubricate the sickle bar regularly — a dry bar runs hotter and accelerates wear at the section-to-guard interface
Carry spare sections in the cab — a mid-field section failure doesn't have to end your day if you have replacements and a basic tool kit on the machine

Shop AgSmart Cutting Sections at Quality Farm Supply

Whether you're running a disc mower, a draper header, or a sickle-equipped combine, Quality Farm Supply stocks AgSmart cutting sections to fit the most popular JD, Case IH, New Holland, and MacDon platforms. Order online with confidence — our team knows ag equipment and can help you confirm the right fit before you buy.

Have a question about sickle section selection for your specific header? Contact our parts team — we're here to help you cut clean and harvest more.

Shop AgSmart Sickle Sections Here

Raptor Draper Belts — Selection, Inspection & Replacement Guide for JD and Case IH Headers

2026-05-28T10:41:47-05:00

Don't leave your profits in the dirt this season. Every bushel saved at the header is pure profit in the bin. Upgrade your combine header with Raptor Draper Belts today and experience smoother feeding, less maintenance, and maximum yield recovery.

Raptor® Draper Belting—originally developed by WCCO Belting and now part of Continental—increases field yields by directly targeting shatter loss, crop flow mechanics, and machine uptime.

While a standard belt simply moves material, Raptor belting uses advanced material science to fundamentally alter how gently and consistently a crop is handled from the cutter bar to the feeder house.

1. Controlling "Shatter Loss" with the Edge Defender®

Shatter loss occurs when mature, brittle seed heads (like wheat or soybeans) slam violently into standard header components, shelling grain before it ever reaches the threshing drum.

The Problem: Traditional straight cleats allow pods and seed heads to roll sideways or backward, often getting pinched or trapped against the rigid metal cutter bar, where they are crushed.
The Raptor Solution: Raptor belts utilize a patented Edge Defender® angled cleat design. These unique, sculpted cleats act as a directional guide. They actively funnel and sweep loose grain away from the abrasive cutter bar and immediately keep it toward the center of the belt canvas. This keeps the most fragile pods moving gently inward rather than dropping to the soil.

2. Eliminating Crop "Bunching" & Slugging

A combine harvester's threshing and cleaning shoes operate at peak efficiency only when they receive a smooth, uniform mat of material.

The Problem: Lower-grade belts slip under heavy loads. This causes the crop to temporarily pile up on the sides of the header. When the belt finally catches, it forces a massive "slug" of tangled material into the feeder house all at once. This causes a sudden RPM drop, poor grain-to-chaff separation, and significant grain being blown right out the back of the combine.
The Raptor Solution: Raptor draper belts are engineered with a specialized filament fabric weave that resists stretching and pulling under maximum load. By eliminating belt lag, the crop feeds into the combine as a highly consistent, uniform mat. The internal threshing mechanism stays perfectly loaded, optimizing separation and heavily dropping your tail-loss percentage.

3. Structural Mechanics: Stiffness and Tracking

How a belt behaves structurally on its rollers dictates how much grain escapes through the header's gaps.

Teardrop Fiber Reinforcement: Raptor belts incorporate an innovative, teardrop-shaped fiberglass rod vulcanized directly inside the center of each cleat. This gives the belt immense cross-directional rigidity, preventing the edges from curling up or folding down under heavy, wet crop weights.
Zero-Gap Tracking: By pairing a stiff fabric base with precise, molded V-guides on the underside, the belt tracks flawlessly straight on its rollers without walking. Flawless tracking means the gap between the belt edge and the header seals remains completely closed, entirely blocking small grains like wheat or canola from slipping beneath the machine.

4. Compounding Your Yield: Starting Earlier, Stopping Later

Yield isn't just measured in bushels per acre; it's measured in capturing the maximum crop volume during the absolute best weather window.

Friction vs. Skim Coatings: Raptor features a highly specialized dual-rubber design—a durable skim coat on top to fight stubble abrasion, and a low-friction coat on the bottom. This reduces mechanical drag and hydraulic pressure requirements.
Field Reliance: Because the belt pulls smoothly without bogging down the combine's hydraulics, harvesters can head into the field earlier in the morning when dew is still on the plant, and cut later into the damp evening without worrying about the belt stalling out or plugging. Expanding your operating window means harvesting more of your crop at its peak nutritional value.

Shop Quality Farm Supply's Selection of Raptor Draper Belts Now - Click Here

Why Kondex Disc Mower Knives Outcut the Competition

2026-05-21T07:00:02-05:00

🌾 When you're racing against the weather window, you can't afford a dull, ragged cut that slows down your dry-down time—or worse, a mid-field breakdown. That's why serious producers switch to Kondex Heavy-Duty Disc Mower Knives.

Since the late 1990s, Kondex has been leading the way in disc mower knife (DMK) manufacturing and testing — and their team was heavily involved in setting the industry standards. Because these knives spin at high rates of speed and can encounter obstacles during use, safety is paramount. But it's performance that truly sets Kondex DMKs above the rest.

🔩 How Disc Mower Knives Work

Disc mower knives are used on mower conditioners pushed or pulled by tractors. Typically, two DMKs are mounted on opposite sides of oval discs — also called turtle shells. Kondex DMKs are made to varying lengths, widths, twist angles, and mounting hole diameters, and are supplied to all major OEMs for both new production and service components. Quality Farm Supply stocks a full line of Kondex mower knives without the high dealer markup.

🔪 Machined Cutting Edge — Improved Sharpness

Kondex DMKs feature a precision-machined cutting edge that delivers superior sharpness right out of the box — and holds that edge longer under high-acreage field conditions.

💪 Milled Edge Stops Before Mount Holes — Greater Structural Strength

The milled edge is intentionally stopped before the mounting holes, preserving the structural integrity of the knife at its most critical stress point. Less breakage. More uptime.

🌀 Radial-Twist Design — Smoother Cut & Better Lifting Action

The radial-twist geometry improves lifting action as the knife spins, resulting in a cleaner, smoother cut that minimizes crop stress — and faster dry-down times that lock in peak forage nutritional value.

🔥 Superior Heat Treatment — Greater Impact Absorption

Through-hardened with a superior heat treatment process, Kondex DMKs absorb high-impact field conditions — rocks, stumps, and debris — without chipping or premature dulling.

✅ OEM-Quality Fit for All Major Brands

Kondex supplies DMKs to all major OEMs and designs their knives as direct, seamless replacements for Kuhn and other leading disc mower brands — ensuring perfect balance and smooth cutterbar operation.

📦 More Bales, Less Downtime

When you choose Kondex, you spend less time swapping blades in the shop and more time checking acres off your list. First cutting doesn't wait for anyone.

📦 In Stock & Ready to Ship Straight to Your Shop!

👇 Click below to get your replacement Kondex knives before you hit the field.

🔗 Shop Kondex Disc Mower Knives Here

Or browse our full Disc Mower Knives & Blades for more options.

First Cutting Is Here — Are You Ready? Your Pre-Season Hay Checklist

2026-05-18T13:50:17-05:00

The grass is growing, the weather window is opening, and first cutting season is officially here. Whether you're running a small operation or managing thousands of acres, getting your equipment dialed in before you hit the field can mean the difference between a clean, profitable cut and a costly breakdown mid-row.

Here's your complete pre-season hay checklist to make sure you're ready to roll.

🌾 1. Inspect Your Mower Conditioner

Check blades, knives, or disc mower blades for wear or damage — replace if edges are dull or chipped.
Inspect conditioner rolls or flails for cracks, missing tines, or uneven wear.
Grease all fittings per your operator's manual.
Check gearbox oil levels and look for leaks.
Inspect driveline shields and PTO shaft for damage.
Confirm cutting height is set correctly for your crop type.

🔄 2. Check Your Rake

Inspect rake teeth/tines — replace any bent or missing ones.
Check wheel bearings and hubs for play or roughness.
Verify rake width settings and adjust for your windrow target.
Lubricate all pivot points and moving parts.
Inspect transport locks and safety chains.

🌀 3. Tedder Readiness

Check all tine arms and tines for bends or breaks
Inspect gearbox and rotor bearings
Grease all fittings
Confirm rotor height is set to avoid soil contamination
Test PTO engagement before heading to the field

📦 4. Baler Pre-Season Check

Round Balers:

Inspect belts or chains for wear, cracking, or stretch.
Check net wrap or twine system — load fresh supply and test wrap cycle.
Inspect pickup tines and cam track.
Check bale chamber rollers and bearings.
Verify gate latch and hydraulic cylinders operate smoothly.

Square Balers:

Inspect knotter components — billhook, twine disc, stripper, and needle.
Check plunger knife and shear bolt supply.
Inspect pickup and auger for wear.
Load and test twine — confirm proper tension.
Grease all fittings and check chain tension.

🚜 5. Tractor & Operator Comfort

Check engine oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid, and tire pressure.
Inspect PTO shaft and confirm RPM matches implement requirements.
Test cab A/C — long days in the field demand a cool cab.
Check canopy or shade system if running an open station tractor.
Stock the cab with water, sunscreen, and a first aid kit.

🛠️ 6. Stock Your Parts Inventory

Nothing kills momentum like a breakdown with no spare parts on hand. Before the season starts, make sure you have:

Spare mower blades or disc knives.
Extra rake tines.
Shear bolts (multiple sizes).
Knotter twine and net wrap.
Belting and belt lacing supplies.
Common bearings for your equipment.
Grease, oil, and hydraulic fluid.

Quality Farm Supply stocks a full line of hay equipment parts — from TeeJet tips to replacement belting — so you can get what you need fast and stay in the field.

☀️ 7. Watch the Weather Window

Target 3–5 consecutive days of low humidity and no rain for first cutting.
Cut in the morning after dew has lifted for faster dry-down.
Monitor forecast closely — don't cut if rain is within 48 hours.
Consider a tedder pass to speed drying if conditions are marginal.

✅ Ready to Cut?

Run through this checklist before your first pass and you'll be set up for a smooth, productive hay season. If you need parts, supplies, or equipment accessories, Quality Farm Supply has you covered.

Shop Hay Equipment Parts

Have questions or need help identifying a part? Contact our team — we're here to help you get back in the field fast.

How to Choose the Right TeeJet® Nozzle or Spray Tip: Complete Selection Guide

2026-05-14T13:56:55-05:00

How to Choose the Right TeeJet® Nozzle or Spray Tip

Choosing the correct TeeJet® spray nozzle is critical for achieving accurate application rates, proper droplet size, and effective drift control. Whether you are applying herbicides, fungicides, insecticides, or liquid fertilizer, the right nozzle directly affects chemical performance, coverage, and compliance with product labels.

This TeeJet nozzle selection guide explains how to choose the best spray tip based on application type, TeeJet nozzle families, chemical requirements, and ISO color coding.

Why TeeJet® Nozzle Selection Matters

Spray nozzles control:

Droplet size and coverage
Drift potential
Application accuracy
Chemical effectiveness

Even the best chemistry cannot overcome poor nozzle selection. Using the correct TeeJet spray tip ensures the product reaches the target at the correct rate and droplet size.

Step 1: Match the Nozzle to the Chemical Application

Always follow the chemical label first. Most labels specify a required or recommended droplet size category such as Fine, Medium, Coarse, or Very Coarse.

Typical droplet size recommendations:

Contact herbicides – Medium droplets for coverage
Systemic herbicides – Coarse to Very Coarse droplets for drift control
Fungicides – Medium droplets for canopy penetration
Insecticides – Fine to Medium droplets
Fertilizer – Coarse droplets to reduce leaf burn

Step 2: TeeJet® Nozzle Families Explained

Understanding TeeJet nozzle families makes selection easier.

XR TeeJet® (Extended Range Flat Spray Nozzles)

XR nozzles offer consistent coverage over a broad pressure range. They are widely used for general broadcast spraying and produce Medium to Coarse droplets depending on pressure.

Best for: General spraying, flexibility across pressures

TT TeeJet® (Turbo TeeJet Flat Spray Nozzles)

Turbo TeeJet nozzles produce larger droplets than XR tips while maintaining uniform coverage. Their design reduces drift and improves performance in challenging conditions.

Best for: Soil‑applied herbicides, fertilizer, broadcast spraying

AIXR TeeJet® (Air Induction Extended Range Nozzles)

AIXR nozzles use air‑induction technology to create larger, air‑filled droplets that significantly reduce drift while preserving coverage.

Best for: Systemic herbicides, drift‑sensitive applications

TTI TeeJet® (Turbo TeeJet Induction Nozzles)

TTI nozzles maximize drift reduction by producing Very Coarse to Ultra Coarse droplets. These are often recommended when label restrictions require enhanced drift control.

Best for: Drift mitigation, sensitive areas, regulatory compliance

TwinJet® Spray Tips

TwinJet nozzles spray two opposing fans, improving coverage on dense or vertical targets. Available in standard and air‑induction versions.

Best for: Fungicides, contact herbicides, canopy penetration

Step 3: TeeJet® Chemical Nozzle Guide (General Reference)

Application	Recommended TeeJet Nozzle Type
Contact herbicides	XR, TT, TwinJet
Systemic herbicides	AIXR, TTI
Fungicides	TwinJet, XR
Insecticides	XR, TwinJet
Fertilizer	TT, TTI

Always confirm label requirements before final selection.

Step 4: TeeJet® ISO Color Coding Guide

TeeJet spray tips use ISO color coding to identify nozzle flow rates quickly. The color corresponds to the nozzle’s output at 40 PSI.

ISO Size	Color
015	Green
02	Yellow
025	Lilac
03	Blue
04	Red
05	Brown
06	Gray
08	White

Example: A Yellow 02 nozzle delivers 0.2 GPM at 40 PSI regardless of nozzle family.

Step 5: Match Flow Rate, Speed, and Pressure

Once the nozzle type and size are selected:

Verify travel speed
Confirm nozzle spacing
Check GPA using TeeJet nozzle charts

Using official TeeJet charts ensures proper calibration and consistent application results.

Final Thoughts: Let Nozzle Design Control Drift

Drift control should come from selecting the correct TeeJet nozzle—not excessive pressure reduction. TeeJet spray tips are engineered to deliver the correct droplet size while maintaining optimal pressure and coverage.

When in doubt:

Read the label
Choose the correct TeeJet nozzle family
Select the proper ISO size
Verify with TeeJet charts or SpraySelect®

Round Bale Hay Safety: What Every Operator Needs to Know

2026-04-15T13:30:01-05:00

Baling Season Brings Real Risks — Here's How to Stay Safe

Haying season is one of the busiest and most rewarding times of year on the farm. It's also one of the most hazardous. Round balers are powerful, efficient machines — but they involve high-speed rotating components, heavy hydraulic systems, and multi-ton bales that can move unpredictably. Every year, preventable accidents happen to experienced operators who let familiarity breed complacency.

This guide covers the most important round baler safety practices — from pre-season preparation to field operation to bale transport. Read it, share it with anyone who operates your equipment, and make it part of your seasonal routine.

Start with the Owner's Manual — Every Season

Before the first bale of the season, pull out the owner's manual and review the safety and operations sections. This isn't busywork. Manufacturers update safety guidelines, and a refresher at the start of each season reinforces habits that can prevent serious injury.

The manual will also specify the correct tractor size and horsepower range for your baler. Using an undersized tractor reduces control and increases the risk of instability, especially on hilly terrain. Always match your tractor to the baler's requirements.

Tractor requirements to verify before baling:

Tractor is within the manufacturer's recommended horsepower range for the baler.
Tractor is equipped with a rollover protective structure (ROPS).
Seat belt is functional and used — every time, without exception.

Pre-Season Baler Inspection

A thorough inspection before the first use of the season is your first line of defense against both mechanical failures and safety hazards. Walk through the entire machine and address anything that's worn, damaged, or missing before heading to the field.

Key safety-related inspection points:

PTO driveshaft shields: Inspect every shield section for cracks, missing pieces, or shields that don't rotate freely. A missing or damaged PTO shield is one of the most serious entanglement hazards on any farm implement. Replace immediately — no exceptions.
All other machine guards and shields: Verify that every guard covering belts, chains, rollers, and other moving parts is in place and secure. Never operate the baler with guards removed.
Hydraulic hoses and fittings: Inspect for cracking, chafing, and leaks. Use a piece of cardboard — never your hand — to check for hydraulic leaks. High-pressure hydraulic fluid can penetrate skin and cause serious injection injuries that may not be immediately apparent.
Hydraulic cylinder lock-out devices: Verify that lock-out devices are present and functional for any raised baler components you may need to work beneath.
Belts, chains, and rollers: Inspect for wear and damage. A belt or chain failure in the field creates both a mechanical problem and a potential safety hazard.
Fire extinguisher: Mount a 10-pound ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher on the tractor. Belt friction and equipment overheating are real fire risks during baling — having an extinguisher within reach can prevent a small problem from becoming a catastrophic one.

The #1 Rule: Never Leave the Seat While the PTO Is Engaged

Entanglement is the greatest risk during baling operations — and it is almost always the result of one decision: leaving the tractor seat while the machine is still running.

Round balers have multiple high-speed rotating components that can grab clothing, limbs, or hair in an instant. There is no safe way to reach into or around a running baler. The machine does not know you are there.

Before leaving the tractor seat for any reason — to clear a plug, check the bale, adjust twine, or anything else — follow this sequence without exception:

Disengage the PTO.
Place the tractor in park or neutral with the brake set.
Shut off the tractor engine.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Wait for all moving parts to come to a complete stop.

This sequence takes less than 60 seconds. An entanglement incident takes less than one. There is no shortcut worth taking.

Safe Field Operation

Terrain Awareness

Round balers have a high center of gravity — especially when a bale is forming in the chamber. This makes them susceptible to tipping on uneven or hilly terrain. Keep these practices in mind:

Reduce ground speed on slopes, uneven ground, and near field edges.
Avoid holes, ditches, and drop-offs. Scout unfamiliar fields before baling.
Avoid sharp turns while baling. The tractor's rear wheels can contact the baler tongue during tight turns, causing instability and potential loss of control.
When ejecting a bale on a slope, position the baler so the bale ejects perpendicular to the slope — not parallel to it. A round bale rolling downhill can travel a significant distance and is extremely dangerous to anyone in its path.

Plugging and Clearing

Plugging is one of the most common situations that leads operators to make unsafe decisions. When the baler plugs, the instinct is to get it cleared quickly and get back to work. This is exactly when the shutdown sequence above is most critical.

Never attempt to clear a plug with the PTO engaged or the engine running.
Shut down completely before reaching into the pickup, feeder, or bale chamber.
Use a clearing tool or stick rather than your hands when possible.
After clearing, inspect the area before restarting to ensure nothing is caught or wrapped.

Fire Prevention

Baler fires are more common than most operators realize. Belt friction, crop buildup around bearings and the driveline, and overheating components are the primary causes.

Clear crop debris from around bearings, the driveline, and the engine area regularly during the day.
Monitor bearing temperatures — a bearing that's hot to the touch after a short run is a warning sign.
Keep the fire extinguisher accessible on the tractor at all times during baling.
If a fire starts, prioritize your safety first. Disconnect the baler from the tractor if it can be done safely, and move the tractor away from the fire.

Bale Handling and Transport Safety

Moving Bales in the Field

A large round bale can weigh anywhere from 800 to over 2,000 pounds depending on size, crop type, and moisture content. Treat every bale as a serious hazard when it's in motion.

Never allow anyone to stand downhill or downslope from a bale being ejected or moved.
Keep bystanders — especially children — well clear of the baling operation at all times.
When stacking bales with a spear or grapple, ensure the area beneath and around the stack is clear before placing or removing bales.

Transporting Bales on Public Roads

Bale wagons and trailers that carry multiple bales offer real advantages — time savings, reduced tractor hydraulic strain, and better stability than single-bale spear transport. When using them:

Match the tractor to the loaded weight of the wagon or trailer. Verify the tractor has adequate braking power to stop the full load on a downhill grade.
Hitch the wagon properly to the tractor drawbar using both a safety pin and a safety chain.
Secure bales on the wagon with straps rated to at least 1.5 times the load weight.
Equip the wagon or trailer with a slow-moving vehicle (SMV) emblem, reflectors, and functioning warning lights before traveling on public roads.
If the load is wider than the tractor or truck and reduces rearward visibility, use an escort vehicle behind the load.
Pull completely off the road at a safe location to allow traffic to pass. Do not wave traffic around — doing so transfers liability to you if an incident occurs.
If using a pickup truck to tow bales, verify the truck's tow rating and braking capacity for the loaded weight before heading to the road.

A Final Word

Round balers are remarkable machines that make modern hay production possible at scale. Used correctly and maintained properly, they are safe and reliable. The accidents that happen with them are almost never the result of a mechanical failure — they are the result of a decision made in a hurry.

Slow down. Follow the shutdown sequence. Keep the guards in place. And make sure everyone working around your baling operation knows and follows the same rules.

Need baler parts, PTO shields, or safety equipment for your operation? Quality Farm Supply stocks a wide range of baler components and farm safety supplies. Contact our team — we're here to help you stay safe and keep your equipment running all season.

Why an A/C Kit Makes Sense When Overhauling Your Tractor or Skid Steer Air Conditioning System

2026-04-14T14:30:04-05:00

The Problem with Replacing A/C Components One at a Time

When an air conditioning system starts failing on a tractor or skid steer, the instinct is often to replace the part that's obviously broken and call it done. The compressor seizes — replace the compressor. The system won't hold a charge — find the leak, fix it, recharge. It's a logical approach, and it works in the short term.

But here's the reality: A/C systems don't fail in isolation. The components that make up a refrigerant circuit — compressor, receiver drier, expansion valve, and all the seals and O-rings that hold it together — age together, wear together, and contaminate each other when something goes wrong. Replacing one failed component while leaving the rest of the aging system in place is a setup for another failure, often within the same season.

That's exactly why complete A/C overhaul kits exist — and why they make so much sense for equipment that's been running for years.

What's in a Complete A/C Kit — and Why Each Component Matters

A quality A/C overhaul kit includes the core components that need to be replaced together for a reliable, lasting repair:

Compressor

The compressor is the heart of the A/C system. It pressurizes the refrigerant and circulates it through the entire circuit. When a compressor fails — whether from a seized bearing, worn seals, or internal damage — it almost always sends metal debris and contamination throughout the system. That debris doesn't stay in the compressor. It travels downstream into the condenser, expansion valve, and evaporator.

Replacing the compressor without flushing the system and replacing the downstream components is one of the most common reasons a repaired A/C system fails again within weeks. A new compressor pumping through a contaminated system won't last.

Receiver Drier

The receiver drier is one of the most overlooked components in an A/C system — and one of the most important to replace during any major service. Its job is to remove moisture from the refrigerant circuit. Moisture in an A/C system reacts with refrigerant to form acids that corrode internal components and degrade seals.

The desiccant inside the receiver drier has a finite capacity. Once it's saturated — which happens over time simply from normal operation and any time the system is opened to atmosphere — it can no longer protect the system.

The rule in A/C service is simple: any time the system is opened, the receiver drier must be replaced. It cannot be reused. Including it in a complete kit ensures this critical step is never skipped.

Expansion Valve

The expansion valve controls the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator, metering it precisely to maintain the correct pressure differential that allows the system to cool effectively. A worn or clogged expansion valve causes poor cooling performance, compressor overload, or both.

Expansion valves are vulnerable to contamination from debris and moisture — the same contaminants that damage the compressor. Replacing the expansion valve as part of a complete overhaul ensures the new compressor isn't working against a restricted or malfunctioning metering device.

O-Rings and Seals

Every connection in an A/C system relies on O-rings and seals to maintain a leak-free circuit. These rubber components harden, crack, and lose elasticity over time — especially in the heat cycles that agricultural equipment experiences. Any time the system is disassembled and reassembled, every disturbed O-ring should be replaced.

A complete kit includes the full set of O-rings needed for the installation, eliminating the guesswork of sourcing individual seals and ensuring nothing is reused that shouldn't be.

The Case for Doing It All at Once

Beyond the technical reasons, there's a straightforward economic argument for the complete kit approach:

Labor is the expensive part. Evacuating and recharging a refrigerant system, removing and reinstalling components, and properly flushing the circuit takes time — whether you're doing it yourself or paying a shop. Doing that work once with all new components costs far less than doing it twice because a second component failed after the first repair.

Refrigerant isn't free. Every time the system is opened and recharged, you're paying for refrigerant. A complete overhaul done right the first time means one recharge, not two or three.

Downtime compounds. A skid steer or tractor sitting in the shop waiting on a second A/C repair in the same season isn't working. In the middle of hay season, construction season, or any other peak period, that downtime has a real cost that dwarfs the price of a complete kit.

When Does a Complete A/C Kit Make Sense?

Compressor failure with debris contamination: Any time a compressor fails internally and sends metal debris into the system, the entire circuit needs to be addressed.
System that hasn't been serviced in years: If the A/C system has been running for multiple seasons without service, the receiver drier is almost certainly saturated and the seals are aging.
System opened for any major repair: The moment the refrigerant circuit is opened to atmosphere, the receiver drier must be replaced. If you're already in there, replacing the other wear components at the same time is the logical choice.
Purchased used equipment: When you don't know the service history of an A/C system, a complete overhaul kit gives you a known starting point.
Poor cooling performance with no obvious single cause: When the system is underperforming but there's no clear single failure point, aging components across the circuit are often the culprit.

Our kits include an aftermarket compressor, receiver drier, expansion valve, and the full O-ring set — everything needed for a complete system overhaul in one box. AP Air is a well-established supplier of agricultural and construction equipment A/C components, built to OEM specifications for fit and performance.

Kits represent significant savings over sourcing each component individually — and the convenience of having everything arrive together means the job can be completed without waiting on multiple orders.

Tips for a Successful A/C System Overhaul

Flush the system before installing new components. If the old compressor failed internally, flush the condenser and evaporator thoroughly to remove debris before installing the new compressor.
Use a vacuum pump to evacuate the system before charging. Pulling a deep vacuum removes moisture and non-condensables from the circuit.
Lubricate O-rings before installation. Use refrigerant oil compatible with your system's refrigerant type. Dry O-rings are more likely to leak or tear during assembly.
Charge to the correct specification. Overcharging is as damaging as undercharging. Use the manufacturer's specified refrigerant charge weight.
Check for leaks before buttoning everything up. Use a leak detector or UV dye to verify all connections are sealed before returning the machine to service.

The Bottom Line

An A/C system overhaul done right the first time — with all the wear components replaced together — is almost always less expensive, less time-consuming, and more reliable than a piecemeal approach. Complete kits like the AP Air QFS-890-2004AP make it straightforward to get everything you need in one order, at a price that makes the decision easy.

Quality Farm Supply stocks A/C kits and components for a wide range of tractor and skid steer makes and models. Contact our team if you need help finding the right kit for your equipment.

The Complete Pre-Season Hay Baler Maintenance Checklist

2026-04-13T13:30:05-05:00

Why Pre-Season Baler Maintenance Pays for Itself

A hay baler is one of the most mechanically complex implements on the farm — and one of the most expensive to repair when something goes wrong mid-season. Unlike a rake or tedder, a baler failure doesn't just cost you time. It can mean an entire cutting left in the field while you wait on parts, or hay that gets rained on while the machine sits idle.

The good news: the vast majority of in-season baler failures are predictable and preventable. A thorough pre-season inspection and service routine — done before the first cutting — is the single best investment you can make in your haying operation. This checklist covers square balers, small round balers, and large round balers, with notes on where the inspection points differ.

1. Knotter and Twine System (Square Balers)

The knotter is the heart of a square baler and the source of more frustration than any other component. It is also the most maintenance-sensitive system on the machine.

Knotter Inspection Points

Bill hook: Inspect the bill hook (twine hook) for wear, nicks, and proper spring tension. A worn bill hook is the #1 cause of missed knots. Replace if the tip shows any wear or rounding.
Twine disc and knife: Check the twine disc for wear on the notch that holds the twine during knot formation. Inspect the twine knife for sharpness — a dull knife leaves long tails or fails to cut entirely. Replace the knife if it won't shave the hair off your arm.
Stripper finger: Inspect for wear and correct positioning. The stripper finger removes the completed knot from the bill hook — if it's worn or misaligned, knots won't strip cleanly.
Needle timing: Verify needle timing is within manufacturer spec. Incorrect timing is a common cause of knotter problems that gets misdiagnosed as a knotter defect.
Twine tension: Check twine tension discs and springs. Incorrect tension causes loose bales or knotter failures.
Lubrication: The knotter requires precise, consistent lubrication. Clean all knotter components thoroughly, then lubricate every pivot, cam, and bearing surface per the operator's manual. Many knotter problems are simply the result of inadequate lubrication.

Net Wrap and Twine System (Round Balers)

Inspect net wrap or twine feed rollers for wear and debris buildup.
Check the net wrap knife for sharpness and correct positioning.
Inspect the net wrap tension system and verify consistent feed across the full bale width.
Clean all twine or net wrap guides of crop debris and old twine remnants.

2. Pickup and Feeder System

The pickup is the first point of contact with the crop and takes a constant beating from ground contact, debris, and high-speed operation.

Pickup tines: Inspect every tine for bends, cracks, or missing pieces. Worn or missing tines leave hay on the ground and create uneven feeding. Replace in sets to maintain balance and consistent pickup.
Pickup tine holders and cam track: Check tine holders for wear and proper spring tension. Inspect the cam track for wear grooves — a worn cam track causes tines to drag on the ground or fail to retract properly.
Pickup drive chain or belt: Inspect for wear, stretch, and proper tension. A loose or worn pickup drive causes inconsistent tine speed and poor pickup performance.
Pickup height and gauge wheels: Set pickup height correctly for your crop conditions. Inspect gauge wheels for wear and verify they roll freely. Seized gauge wheels cause the pickup to dig into the ground.
Auger or feeder fingers (square balers): Inspect auger flighting and feeder fingers for wear or damage. Check for crop buildup around the auger that could restrict feeding.
Rotor or stuffer (square balers): Inspect stuffer forks and timing. Verify the stuffer is timed correctly to the plunger — mistiming causes plugging and excessive wear.

3. Plunger and Crank (Square Balers)

The plunger compresses the hay into the bale chamber and is subject to enormous forces with every stroke.

Plunger knives: Inspect plunger knives for sharpness and correct clearance against the stationary counter-knives. Dull or misadjusted knives cause plugging and poor bale density. Sharpen or replace as needed and set clearance to manufacturer spec (typically 0.010–0.020").
Plunger head and wear strips: Inspect the plunger head for cracks or damage. Check wear strips or slides for wear — worn slides allow the plunger to rock, causing uneven bale density and accelerated wear on the bale chamber.
Crank and pitman arm: Inspect the crank arm and pitman (connecting rod) for cracks, especially at weld points and bearing journals. Check the pitman bearing for play or roughness.
Flywheel and shear bolt: Inspect the flywheel for cracks or damage. Verify the shear bolt is the correct grade and size — never substitute a stronger bolt, as the shear bolt is the only protection for the driveline and gearbox in a plugging event.

4. Bale Chamber and Density System

Square Balers

Inspect bale chamber sides and top for wear or damage that could cause bales to hang up.
Check density springs and adjustment mechanism. Verify consistent tension across both sides of the chamber.
Inspect the bale length metering star wheel and trip mechanism for wear and correct adjustment.

Round Balers

Belts (variable chamber balers): Inspect all belts for cracking, fraying, delamination, and correct tension. Check belt lacing for wear — a failed lace mid-season means a belt replacement in the field. Replace any belt showing significant cracking or wear at the laces.
Rollers (fixed chamber balers): Inspect all rollers for wear, flat spots, and bearing condition. Spin each roller by hand and feel for roughness or play. Check roller surface condition — worn or smooth rollers slip on the bale and reduce density.
Tailgate and latch: Inspect the tailgate hinges, cylinders, and latch mechanism. A tailgate that doesn't seal tightly causes loose, poorly shaped bales. Verify the latch engages and releases reliably.
Bale density and pressure system: Check hydraulic pressure settings and verify the density control system is functioning correctly. Inspect hydraulic hoses on the tailgate for chafing from repeated opening and closing.

5. Gearbox and Driveline

Gearbox oil: Check oil level in all gearboxes — main gearbox, pickup gearbox, and any auxiliary gearboxes. Drain and replace oil if it hasn't been changed in the past season. Look for metal particles when draining — a sign of internal wear. Use only the oil type and viscosity specified by the manufacturer.
Gearbox seals: Inspect all gearbox seals for leaking. A weeping seal caught now is a $20 fix; ignored, it becomes a gearbox replacement.
PTO driveshaft: Inspect U-joints for wear and play. Grease all U-joint zerks and the telescoping section. Check the slip clutch — exercise it by engaging and disengaging the PTO several times before the first use. Verify the PTO shield is intact and rotates freely.
Drive chains: Inspect all drive chains for wear, stretch, and proper tension. Measure chain stretch against a new chain — replace any chain that has stretched beyond the manufacturer's wear limit. Lubricate all chains per the operator's manual.
Drive belts: Inspect all drive belts for cracking, fraying, glazing, and correct tension. Replace any belt showing cracking or significant wear.

6. Lubrication — Full Machine

Lubrication is not a single checklist item — it's the foundation of every other item on this list. Before the first use of the season:

Grease every zerk fitting on the machine — work through the operator's manual lubrication diagram systematically and don't skip any.
Pay special attention to the knotter (square balers), pickup cam track, all chain drives, and rotor/roller bearings.
Use the correct grease type for each application — mixing incompatible greases can cause breakdown.
After greasing, wipe away excess grease from areas where it could attract crop debris and cause buildup.

7. Hydraulic System

Check hydraulic fluid level and condition. Fluid that is dark, milky, or has a burnt smell should be replaced.
Inspect all hydraulic hoses for cracking, chafing, and leaks — pay particular attention to hoses on moving components like the tailgate and pickup lift.
Check all hydraulic fittings for tightness.
Verify all hydraulic functions operate smoothly — pickup raise/lower, tailgate open/close, density control.

8. Electrical System

Inspect all wiring harnesses for chafing, rodent damage, or broken connectors — balers stored over winter are a favorite target for mice.
Test all monitors, sensors, and warning systems — bale counter, twine/net wrap monitor, moisture sensor if equipped.
Check and clean all electrical connectors. Apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
Verify all lights are functional if the baler will be moved on public roads.

9. Structural and Safety Inspection

Inspect the main frame and tongue for cracks, especially at weld joints and hitch points.
Check all safety shields and guards — replace any that are missing, cracked, or damaged before operating.
Verify all transport locks function correctly.
Check tire condition and inflation pressure on balers with running gear.
Inspect the hitch pin and clevis for wear — replace if the pin hole is elongated or the pin is loose.

10. Pre-Season Test Run

Before heading to the field, do a controlled test run:

Engage the PTO at low RPM and listen for any unusual noises — grinding, knocking, or squealing.
Run the pickup through its full range of motion.
On square balers, run a small amount of hay through and verify knotter function before committing to a full windrow.
On round balers, form a test bale and verify net wrap or twine application, tailgate operation, and bale ejection.
Check for any leaks — hydraulic, gearbox, or grease — after the test run.

Parts to Stock Before the Season

Having the right parts on the shelf before the season starts is as important as the inspection itself. At minimum, stock:

Pickup tines (full set)
Knotter bill hooks and twine knives (square balers)
Shear bolts — correct grade and size for your baler (square balers)
Belt lacing and repair kit (round balers with belts)
Drive chain (one full replacement length for your most critical chain)
Gearbox oil and seal kit
U-joint crosses for the PTO driveshaft
Twine or net wrap — verify you have enough for the season before you need it

Downtime during haying season compounds fast. A part that takes 3 days to ship costs you far more than its price tag when hay is ready to bale.

Final Thought

A baler that goes into the season properly serviced will almost always finish the season. A baler that goes in with deferred maintenance will tell you exactly what you skipped — usually at the worst possible moment.

Work through this checklist before your first cutting, keep up with daily lubrication during the season, and address small issues before they become big ones. Your baler — and your hay — will thank you.

Need baler parts before the season? Quality Farm Supply stocks pickup tines, knotter components, belts, chains, bearings, gearbox parts, and driveline components for a wide range of baler makes and models. Contact our team to get the right parts on hand before you need them.

What a Hay Tedder Does — and the Wear Parts You Need to Keep on Hand

2026-04-12T13:00:15-05:00

What Is a Hay Tedder?

A hay tedder is a forage conditioning implement designed to accelerate the drying of cut hay. After a mower lays hay down in a swath, the tedder picks it up, flips it, and redistributes it loosely across the field — exposing more surface area to sun and airflow. The result is faster, more even drying, which translates directly into higher-quality hay with better color, leaf retention, and nutritional value.

In practical terms, a tedder can cut drying time by 30–50% compared to leaving hay undisturbed. In regions with unpredictable weather windows, that time savings is the difference between putting up quality hay and putting up a moldy mess.

Tedders are available in several configurations:

Single rotor tedders — compact, ideal for smaller acreage and tight fields.
Multi-rotor tedders — wider working widths for high-volume operations; rotors are typically arranged in a line or offset pattern.
Trailed tedders — pulled behind the tractor on their own running gear, suited for very wide working widths.
Mounted/3-point tedders — attached directly to the tractor's 3-point hitch, more maneuverable in smaller fields.

How a Hay Tedder Works

The core mechanism of a tedder is simple but effective. Each rotor consists of a central hub with multiple tine arms radiating outward. Each tine arm carries two or more curved tines. As the PTO drives the rotors at high speed (typically 540 RPM), the tines sweep through the hay swath, lifting and throwing the material in a wide, airy pattern behind the machine.

On multi-rotor tedders, adjacent rotors counter-rotate, working together to move hay across the full working width without leaving gaps or bunching. The working height is controlled by gauge wheels or skid shoes, which keep the tines at the correct distance from the ground — close enough to pick up all the hay, but not so low that they dig into the soil and contaminate the windrow.

The key to effective tedding is timing and conditions. Tedding works best when the hay has wilted slightly after cutting (typically 2–4 hours after mowing) and when conditions are sunny and breezy. Tedding wet hay too aggressively or too late in the drying process can cause leaf shatter and dry matter loss — especially in legumes like alfalfa and clover.

Wear Parts on a Hay Tedder

Tedders are mechanically straightforward, but they operate at high speed in abrasive conditions. The following components are the most frequently worn or damaged and should be inspected regularly and stocked as spares.

1. Tines

Tines are the highest-wear item on any tedder — bar none. They are the only part of the machine in direct, continuous contact with the crop and, frequently, the ground.

What they do: Curved spring-steel tines attach to the tine arms and do the actual work of lifting and throwing the hay. Their curved profile and spring temper allow them to flex on impact and return to shape.

How they wear: Tines wear at the tip from abrasion against soil and crop material. They also fatigue and crack at the bend point from repeated flexing, especially if the tedder is run too low or in rocky conditions. A tine that has lost tip length becomes less effective at picking up hay cleanly.

Signs of wear: Shortened or blunted tips, visible cracks at the bend, tines that no longer return to their original shape after flexing, or tines that have broken off entirely.

Replacement interval: Inspect every season; replace when tips are visibly worn or any cracking is present. Always replace in complete sets per rotor arm to maintain balance.

Stocking recommendation: Keep at least one full set of tines per rotor on hand. Tines are inexpensive individually — running out mid-season is not.

2. Tine Holders / Tine Clips

Tines attach to the tine arms via holders or clips — typically a bolt-and-clamp or snap-in retainer system depending on the manufacturer.

How they wear: Holders loosen over time from vibration, and the clamping surfaces wear, reducing their ability to hold the tine securely. A loose tine holder allows the tine to shift position, reducing effectiveness and accelerating tine wear.

Signs of wear: Tines that rotate or shift position during operation, visible wear on the clamping faces, holders that won't torque to spec.

Replacement interval: Inspect at every tine replacement. Replace any holder that shows wear or won't hold torque.

3. Tine Arms

Tine arms are the radial arms that extend from the rotor hub and carry the tines. They are typically made from formed steel or cast iron depending on the design.

How they wear: Tine arms bend or crack from rock strikes or from operating with a seized or missing tine that throws the rotor out of balance. On some designs, the tine arm pivot point wears, allowing excessive play.

Signs of wear: Visible bends or cracks, arms that are not parallel to adjacent arms, excessive play at the pivot point.

Replacement interval: Replace immediately upon discovery of any bend or crack. A broken tine arm at operating speed can cause significant secondary damage.

4. Rotor Bearings

Each rotor spins on one or more bearings housed in the rotor hub. These bearings carry the full radial and axial load of the spinning rotor and its tines.

How they wear: Bearings wear from inadequate lubrication, contamination (dust, crop debris, moisture), and normal fatigue over time. High-speed operation makes contamination especially damaging — even small amounts of grit in a bearing running at 540 RPM cause rapid wear.

Signs of wear: Rumbling, grinding, or squealing from the rotor hub. Excessive heat at the hub after operation. Visible wobble or play in the rotor. In advanced cases, the rotor may seize entirely.

Replacement interval: Inspect at the start of each season by spinning each rotor by hand and feeling for roughness or play. Replace at the first sign of roughness — a failed rotor bearing mid-season can destroy the hub and rotor shaft.

Lubrication: Grease all rotor bearing zerks daily during the season. Use the grease type and quantity specified by the manufacturer.

5. Gearbox

The gearbox transfers PTO power from the driveline to the rotor(s). On multi-rotor tedders, a central gearbox distributes drive to individual rotor gearboxes via driveshafts.

How it wears: Gearbox failures on tedders are almost always caused by oil starvation (low level, leaking seals, or operating on steep slopes), contamination from failed seals, or shock loads from rock strikes transmitted through the driveline.

Signs of wear: Gearbox overheating, whining or grinding noise, oil leaks at seals or the drain plug, metal particles visible when draining oil.

Maintenance: Check gearbox oil level at the start of each season and every 50 hours during use. Drain and replace oil annually. Inspect all seals for leaking.

Stocking recommendation: Keep the correct gearbox oil on hand and know your seal part numbers. Catching a leaking seal early is a $20 fix; ignoring it is a $500+ gearbox replacement.

6. PTO Driveshaft and Slip Clutch

The PTO driveshaft connects the tractor to the tedder gearbox. Most tedder driveshafts include a slip clutch to protect the driveline from shock loads.

How they wear: U-joints wear from inadequate lubrication and excessive operating angles. The telescoping section wears and can seize if not lubricated. The slip clutch wears from normal slipping events and can seize during off-season storage.

Signs of wear: Vibration or shudder in the driveline, clicking at low speed (worn U-joints), driveshaft that won't telescope smoothly, slip clutch that slips under normal load or won't slip at all.

Maintenance: Grease U-joints and the telescoping section at the start of each season. Exercise the slip clutch before first use by engaging and disengaging the PTO several times. Inspect the PTO shield for cracks or missing sections — replace immediately if damaged.

7. Gauge Wheels and Skid Shoes

Gauge wheels or skid shoes control the working height of the tedder — keeping the tines at the correct distance from the ground.

How they wear: Gauge wheel tires wear from ground contact, especially in abrasive or rocky soils. Skid shoes wear on their contact face and can wear through entirely if the tedder is operated too low or in stony conditions. Worn gauge wheels or skid shoes result in inconsistent tine height, leading to soil contamination in the hay or incomplete pickup.

Signs of wear: Visible wear on the skid shoe contact face, gauge wheel tires that are cracked, flat-spotted, or worn through, inconsistent tine height across the working width.

Replacement interval: Inspect at the start of each season. Skid shoes are sacrificial wear items — replace before they wear through to the frame.

8. Rotor Drive Chains or Belts (Where Applicable)

Some tedder designs use chains or belts to transfer drive between rotors or from the gearbox to the rotor. These are less common on modern designs but still present on many older machines.

How they wear: Chains stretch and wear at the pin and roller interfaces. Belts crack, fray, and lose tension over time. A worn chain or belt slips under load, reducing rotor speed and tedding effectiveness.

Signs of wear: Visible chain stretch (measure against a new chain), cracked or frayed belts, slipping or inconsistent rotor speed during operation.

Replacement interval: Measure chain stretch at the start of each season. Replace belts showing any cracking or fraying.

Pre-Season Tedder Inspection Checklist

Before the first cutting of the season, work through this inspection:

Inspect every tine — replace any that are worn, cracked, or missing.
Check all tine holders and clips for wear and proper torque.
Spin each rotor by hand — feel for roughness or play in the bearings.
Grease all zerks — rotor bearings, U-joints, pivot points, and gauge wheel hubs.
Check gearbox oil level on all gearboxes. Look for leaks at seals and drain plugs.
Inspect the PTO driveshaft — U-joints, telescoping section, slip clutch, and shields.
Check gauge wheels and skid shoes for wear.
Inspect the frame for cracked welds, especially at rotor mounts and hitch points.
Check all hydraulic hoses and fittings for leaks or chafing (on folding models).
Verify all transport locks and fold latches operate correctly.

Parts to Keep on Hand

Tedder downtime during haying season is costly. These are the parts worth stocking before the season starts:

A full set of tines per rotor (minimum)
Tine holders/clips
Rotor bearings (at least one set)
U-joint crosses for the PTO driveshaft
Correct gearbox oil and seal kit
Skid shoes or gauge wheel tires

Knowing your make and model before you need parts is half the battle. Having them on the shelf when something breaks is the other half.

Quality Farm Supply stocks tedder tines, bearings, gearbox components, driveline parts, and skid shoes for a wide range of tedder makes and models. Contact our team to find the right parts for your machine before the season starts.

Common Hay Rake Failures: Causes, Symptoms, and How to Fix Them

2026-04-11T12:30:05-05:00

Introduction

Hay rakes take a beating. They operate in dusty, debris-filled conditions, often at high speeds, across uneven terrain — and when something fails mid-season, the cost isn't just the repair bill. It's the downtime, the delayed cuttings, and the forage quality lost while the equipment sits idle. Understanding the most common hay rake failures — what causes them, how to spot them early, and how to address them — is one of the best investments a hay producer can make.

This guide covers the most frequent failure points across all major rake types: rotary rakes, wheel rakes, and parallel bar rakes.

1. Tine Failures

Broken or Missing Tines

Cause: Tines are the highest-wear component on any rake. They fail due to metal fatigue from repeated flexing, impact with rocks or debris, operating at too low a height, or running at excessive ground speed. Tines made from lower-grade steel or incorrect spring temper are especially prone to early breakage.

Symptoms: Uneven windrows, hay left on the ground in strips, visible gaps in the tine pattern, or rattling/clanking during operation.

Fix: Replace broken tines immediately — operating with missing tines throws the rotor or wheel out of balance, accelerating wear on bearings and hubs. Always replace tines in matched sets on rotary rakes to maintain rotor balance. Use OEM-spec or equivalent tines; undersized wire diameter or incorrect temper will result in premature re-failure.

Bent or Misaligned Tines

Cause: Impact with rocks, stumps, or hard ground. Can also result from tines being installed at the wrong angle.

Symptoms: Tines dragging or digging into the ground on one side, inconsistent windrow shape, increased soil contamination in the windrow.

Fix: Bent tines cannot be reliably straightened — replace them. Check tine mounting angle against the operator's manual spec. On wheel rakes, verify that all tine bars are set to the same angle.

Tine Arm Breakage (Rotary Rakes)

Cause: Tine arms on rotary rakes are subject to high centrifugal and impact loads. Breakage typically results from severe rock strikes, operating with a worn or seized cam track (which prevents proper tine lift), or metal fatigue from extended use.

Symptoms: Loud bang during operation, visible missing or dangling tine arm, rotor vibration, uneven raking pattern.

Fix: Stop operation immediately — a broken tine arm can cause secondary damage to the rotor, cam track, and surrounding tine arms. Replace the arm and inspect the cam track and rotor for damage before resuming.

2. Bearing Failures

Wheel Hub Bearing Failure

Cause: The most common cause is inadequate lubrication — either missed greasing intervals or using the wrong grease type. Contamination from water, dirt, and crop debris accelerates wear. Overloading (operating at excessive speeds or with too much down pressure) also shortens bearing life significantly.

Symptoms: Grinding, rumbling, or squealing noise from a wheel hub. Excessive heat at the hub after operation. Visible wobble or play in the wheel. In advanced cases, the wheel may seize entirely.

Fix: Replace the bearing immediately. Inspect the hub bore and spindle for scoring or damage — a damaged spindle will destroy a new bearing quickly. Repack or re-grease per manufacturer specs. Establish a daily greasing routine during the season.

Rotor Bearing Failure (Rotary Rakes)

Cause: Same root causes as hub bearings — inadequate lubrication, contamination, and overloading. Rotor bearings are also vulnerable to damage from operating with a rotor imbalance (caused by missing or broken tines).

Symptoms: Vibration or wobble in the rotor, unusual noise from the rotor center, excessive heat at the bearing housing.

Fix: Replace bearings and seals as a set. Before reinstalling, verify the rotor is balanced (all tines present and matched). Inspect the bearing housing for wear or out-of-round condition.

Over-Greasing

Cause: While under-greasing is more common, over-greasing is a real failure mode. Excess grease can blow out seals, allowing contamination to enter the bearing.

Symptoms: Grease purging from seals, premature seal failure, bearing contamination.

Fix: Follow manufacturer-specified grease quantities. Grease until fresh grease just begins to purge from the relief, then stop. Use the correct grease type — mixing incompatible grease types can cause breakdown.

3. Gearbox Failures

Oil Starvation

Cause: Low gearbox oil level due to leaking seals, a loose drain plug, or simply missed oil checks. Operating on steep slopes can also temporarily starve gears of lubrication.

Symptoms: Gearbox overheating, whining or grinding noise from the gearbox, metal particles in the oil (visible when draining), eventual gear or bearing seizure.

Fix: Check and correct oil level immediately. Inspect all seals and the drain plug for leaks. If the gearbox has run hot or dry, drain the oil and inspect for metal contamination — if present, the gearbox likely needs internal inspection or replacement. Use only the oil type and viscosity specified by the manufacturer.

Seal Failure

Cause: Age and heat cycling cause seals to harden and crack. Contamination, incorrect oil type, and overfilling can also degrade seals prematurely.

Symptoms: Oil weeping or leaking from the gearbox housing, oil on the driveline or frame below the gearbox, low oil level without an obvious external cause.

Fix: Replace seals and refill with fresh oil to the correct level. If the leak is at the input or output shaft, inspect the shaft for scoring that may have caused the seal to fail.

Gear or Shaft Damage

Cause: Severe overloading, shock loads from rock strikes, or operating with a seized slip clutch that transfers excessive torque to the gearbox.

Symptoms: Loud grinding or clunking from the gearbox, loss of drive, metal debris in the oil.

Fix: This typically requires gearbox disassembly and internal inspection. In many cases, replacing the gearbox assembly is more cost-effective than sourcing individual internal components. Always address the root cause (slip clutch condition, operating practices) before reinstalling.

4. PTO and Driveline Failures

Slip Clutch Wear or Seizure

Cause: The slip clutch is designed to protect the driveline and gearbox from shock loads. It fails in two ways: it can wear out and slip under normal load (providing no drive), or it can seize and stop slipping (providing no protection). Seizure is common when the clutch sits unused over winter without being exercised.

Symptoms: Slipping clutch — rake loses drive or operates intermittently under normal conditions. Seized clutch — gearbox or driveline damage from shock loads that the clutch should have absorbed.

Fix: Inspect and adjust slip clutch torque setting per manufacturer specs at the start of each season. Exercise the clutch by engaging and disengaging the PTO several times before the first use. Replace friction discs if worn beyond spec. Never weld or lock a slip clutch — this eliminates the only protection your driveline has.

Universal Joint Failure

Cause: U-joints fail from lack of lubrication, operating at excessive angles, or impact damage. High-speed operation at steep angles dramatically shortens U-joint life.

Symptoms: Vibration or shudder in the driveline, clicking or knocking at low speed, visible wear or play in the U-joint cross.

Fix: Replace U-joint crosses and bearing cups as a set. Grease new U-joints immediately before use. Check PTO shaft angle — if the tractor hitch height is causing excessive driveline angle, adjust accordingly. Inspect the PTO shaft telescoping section for wear and proper overlap.

PTO Shield Damage

Cause: Shields are often damaged by contact with the ground, crop wrapping, or simply age and UV degradation.

Symptoms: Cracked, missing, or non-rotating shields.

Fix: Replace damaged shields immediately — this is a critical safety issue, not just a maintenance item. A rotating PTO shaft without a shield is an entanglement hazard.

5. Wheel Rake-Specific Failures

Flat Spots and Tire Wear

Cause: Wheel rakes rely on ground-driven wheels. Flat spots develop when a wheel locks up due to a seized bearing or hub, or when the rake is dragged during transport with wheels in contact with the ground.

Symptoms: Thumping or bouncing during operation, uneven raking, visible flat area on the tire.

Fix: Replace the tire. Address the root cause — inspect the hub and bearing for seizure. Ensure the rake is properly raised for transport.

Hub and Spindle Wear

Cause: Wheel rake hubs and spindles wear over time, especially when bearings are run dry or contaminated. Worn spindles allow bearing movement, which accelerates wear exponentially.

Symptoms: Excessive wheel wobble, bearing failures that recur quickly after replacement, visible wear or scoring on the spindle.

Fix: A worn spindle must be replaced — installing a new bearing on a worn spindle will result in rapid re-failure. Inspect spindle condition any time a bearing is replaced.

Gauge Wheel and Height Adjustment Failures

Cause: Gauge wheels wear or seize, and height adjustment mechanisms corrode or wear, especially when not lubricated regularly.

Symptoms: Inability to adjust rake height, uneven ground following, one side of the rake running higher or lower than the other.

Fix: Lubricate all adjustment points and pivot pins regularly. Replace worn gauge wheel tires and seized pivot hardware. Verify that both sides of the rake are set to the same height.

6. Rotary Rake-Specific Failures

Cam Track Wear

Cause: The cam track controls tine lift and deposit. It wears from continuous contact with tine arm followers, especially when followers are worn or when the cam track runs dry.

Symptoms: Tines not lifting properly at the deposit point, hay being scattered rather than deposited in a clean windrow, visible wear groove in the cam track.

Fix: Inspect the cam track and tine arm followers together — worn followers accelerate cam track wear. Replace both if worn. Lubricate per manufacturer specs.

Rotor Imbalance

Cause: Missing, broken, or mismatched tines create an unbalanced rotor. Even one missing tine on a high-speed rotary rake creates significant vibration.

Symptoms: Vibration during operation, accelerated bearing wear, visible wobble in the rotor.

Fix: Replace tines in matched sets. Never operate with missing tines on a rotary rake. After replacing tines, check for residual vibration — if present, inspect bearings and rotor mounting.

7. Hydraulic System Failures

Hose Chafing and Leaks

Cause: Hydraulic hoses chafe against frame members, sharp edges, or other hoses during operation. UV degradation and age also cause hose cracking.

Symptoms: Visible oil weeping or spraying from a hose, slow or weak hydraulic function, hose with visible cracks, abrasion, or bulging.

Fix: Replace damaged hoses immediately — a high-pressure hydraulic leak is a fire and injection hazard. Route replacement hoses away from contact points and use protective sleeving where chafing is likely. Never use tape as a permanent repair.

Cylinder Drift

Cause: Internal seal wear in hydraulic cylinders allows fluid to bypass, causing the cylinder to slowly retract or extend under load.

Symptoms: Rake height or fold position changing during operation without operator input, cylinder that won't hold position.

Fix: Rebuild or replace the cylinder. Inspect the cylinder bore for scoring — a scored bore will destroy new seals quickly.

8. Frame and Structural Failures

Weld Cracks

Cause: Fatigue cracking at weld joints is common on older rakes or those operated in rough conditions. High-stress areas include hitch connections, rotor mounts, and fold hinge points.

Symptoms: Visible cracks at or near weld beads, unusual flex or movement in the frame, paint cracking along a weld line.

Fix: Do not operate a rake with a cracked frame weld — the crack will propagate rapidly under load and can result in catastrophic failure. Have cracks professionally repaired by a qualified welder. After repair, inspect the surrounding area for additional stress cracks.

Hitch Wear

Cause: The hitch pin hole and clevis wear over time from the constant movement between tractor and implement.

Symptoms: Excessive play at the hitch connection, hitch pin difficult to insert or remove, visible elongation of the pin hole.

Fix: Replace worn hitch components. Operating with excessive hitch play transfers shock loads to the frame and driveline rather than absorbing them at the hitch.

Transport Lock Failures

Cause: Transport locks — pins, latches, or chains that secure the rake in transport position — wear, corrode, or are simply not used.

Symptoms: Rake unfolding unexpectedly during transport, transport lock that won't engage or disengage.

Fix: Always engage transport locks before road travel. Replace worn or corroded lock hardware. Lubricate lock mechanisms at the start of each season.

Preventing Failures Before They Start

The vast majority of hay rake failures share a common root cause: deferred maintenance. A consistent pre-season inspection, daily greasing during the season, and end-of-season service routine will prevent most of the failures described above. Key habits that pay dividends:

Grease every fitting, every day during the season — it takes minutes and prevents hours of downtime.
Walk around the rake before each use and look for anything that changed since the last pass.
Listen to your equipment — unusual noises are almost always early warning signs.
Keep a small stock of high-wear parts (tines, bearings, U-joint crosses) on hand so repairs don't wait on shipping.
Address small issues immediately — a $15 tine ignored becomes a $300 bearing failure becomes a $1,500 gearbox.

Need replacement parts for your hay rake? Quality Farm Supply stocks tines, bearings, gearbox components, and driveline parts for a wide range of rake makes and models. Contact our team for help finding the right parts for your equipment.

Rotary Mower Problems That Can Derail Your Hay Season — And How to Prevent Them

2026-04-10T07:30:03-05:00

When it's time to cut hay, your rotary mower needs to perform. A breakdown in the field doesn't just cost you repair time — it costs you a cutting window. Hay quality drops fast once it's ready to cut, and a mower sitting in the shop while the weather holds is money left in the field.

Here are the most common rotary mower problems hay producers face, what causes them, and how to stay ahead of them.

1. Blade Wear and Blade Failure

Rotary mower blades take a constant beating — rocks, dirt, stumps, and heavy grass all accelerate wear. Dull blades don't cut cleanly; they tear and shred the crop, which slows drying time and reduces hay quality.

Signs of trouble:

Ragged, uneven cut with frayed stem ends
Increased power demand from the tractor
Visible nicks, chips, or rounded cutting edges on blades

What to do: Inspect blades before every cutting. Sharpen or replace blades when the cutting edge shows visible wear. Always replace blades in matched sets to maintain rotor balance — an unbalanced rotor causes vibration that accelerates bearing wear throughout the mower.

💡 Pro tip: Keep a set of spare blades on hand. Swapping blades in the field takes minutes; waiting on a parts order takes days.

2. Blade Bolt and Blade Carrier Failure

Blade bolts are a wear item, not a permanent fastener. They're designed to shear on impact to protect the rotor — but worn or improperly torqued blade bolts can fail prematurely or, worse, allow a blade to come loose unexpectedly.

What to check:

Inspect blade bolts for stretch, corrosion, or deformation at every blade change
Replace blade bolts any time blades are replaced — never reuse old bolts
Check blade carriers (blade holders) for cracks or elongated bolt holes

A loose or failed blade is a serious safety hazard. This is not a place to cut corners.

3. Gearbox Problems

The gearbox takes the PTO input and drives the rotor at high speed. It's one of the hardest-working components on the mower and one of the most expensive to replace.

Common gearbox issues:

Overheating from low oil level or running at incorrect PTO RPM
Seal failure leading to oil leaks and eventual gear or bearing damage
Input shaft wear from misaligned or worn PTO driveline connections

Prevention:

Check gearbox oil level at the start of every season and top off as needed
Use the correct oil type specified in your operator's manual
Inspect gearbox seals for leaks before and during the season
Never operate at PTO speeds outside the manufacturer's rated range

4. PTO Driveline and Slip Clutch Issues

The driveline transfers power from the tractor to the mower. A worn or damaged driveline is both a performance problem and a safety risk.

What to watch for:

Vibration or wobble in the driveline during operation
Worn or cracked universal joints
Slip clutch that won't engage or slips under normal load

The slip clutch protects the gearbox from shock loads — hitting a rock or stump at speed. If the slip clutch is glazed or improperly adjusted, it won't protect the drivetrain when it needs to.

Maintenance: Grease all driveline fittings at the interval specified in your manual. Inspect U-joints for play or roughness. Test the slip clutch engagement before the season starts.

5. Scalping and Uneven Cut Height

Scalping — where the mower digs into the ground and cuts too low — damages the stand, slows regrowth, and introduces soil contamination into the hay. It's a common problem on uneven ground or when mower setup isn't dialed in.

Causes:

Skid shoes worn down or missing
Incorrect cutting height adjustment
Operating too fast over rough or rolling terrain
Worn or bent gauge wheels

Fix: Check skid shoe wear regularly and replace before they're gone. Set cutting height to leave at least 3–4 inches of stubble for healthy regrowth. Slow down on rough ground.

6. Bearing Failure

Rotor bearings and spindle bearings wear over time — and they wear faster when blades are unbalanced, the mower hits obstacles, or lubrication is neglected.

Warning signs:

Unusual noise or vibration during operation
Excessive heat at bearing locations after use
Play or roughness when spinning the rotor by hand

Prevention: Grease all fittings on schedule. Inspect bearings at the start of each season. Address vibration issues immediately — running a mower with a bad bearing accelerates damage to surrounding components.

7. Hydraulic Issues (Folding and Lift Systems)

On larger wing mowers, hydraulic problems can prevent proper folding, cause uneven wing float, or result in a wing dropping unexpectedly.

Common issues:

Slow or unresponsive hydraulic cylinders from low fluid or worn seals
Hydraulic hose wear from rubbing or UV degradation
Leaking fittings at cylinder connections

Inspect all hydraulic hoses and fittings before the season. Replace any hose showing cracking, abrasion, or bulging. Check cylinder seals for weeping or active leaks.

Stock Up Before the Season

Rotary mower wear parts — blades, blade bolts, blade carriers, skid shoes, and gearbox oil — move fast once hay season starts. Don't wait until you're broken down in the field to find out your dealer is backordered.

Quality Farm Supply stocks rotary mower parts for a wide range of makes and models, including blades, blade hardware, skid shoes, gearbox components, driveline parts, and more. Fast shipping — most orders leave our warehouse same or next business day.

Rotary Mower Pre-Season Checklist

Inspect and sharpen or replace blades
Replace blade bolts — never reuse
Check blade carriers for cracks or wear
Verify gearbox oil level and inspect for leaks
Grease all driveline and bearing fittings
Inspect PTO driveline and U-joints
Test slip clutch engagement
Check skid shoe wear and cutting height
Inspect hydraulic hoses, fittings, and cylinders (wing mowers)
Listen and feel for bearing noise or vibration at startup

Quality Farm Supply is your source for rotary mower parts, hay equipment components, and farm supply. Fast shipping. Competitive pricing. No dealer markup.

Pre-Season Sprayer Maintenance: Get Your Sprayer Field-Ready Before the Season Hits

2026-04-09T06:30:43-05:00

Spray season is right around the corner — and if you're waiting until the first application day to find out your pump is worn, your nozzles are clogged, or your boom has a cracked fitting, you're already behind.

Pre-season sprayer maintenance isn't just good practice. It's the difference between a smooth, profitable spray season and a costly breakdown in the middle of a critical application window. Here's your complete checklist to get your sprayer dialed in before the season starts.

1. Inspect and Flush the Entire System

Before you do anything else, flush your sprayer thoroughly with clean water. Residual chemicals left in the tank, lines, and boom over winter can degrade seals, corrode fittings, and contaminate your first load of the season.

What to check:

Tank interior for cracks, residue buildup, or sediment
Agitator function — make sure it's moving product evenly
All plumbing lines for cracks, brittleness, or chemical staining
Drain plugs and sumps for leaks

2. Check Your Pump

Your pump is the heart of your spray system. A worn pump means inconsistent pressure, poor coverage, and wasted chemical.

Roller pumps: Check rollers for wear and replace if flattened or cracked. Inspect the pump housing for scoring.

Centrifugal pumps: Check the impeller for wear and inspect seals for leaking.

Diaphragm pumps: Inspect diaphragms for cracks or pinholes and replace diaphragm kits annually as preventive maintenance.

💡 Pro tip: If your pump struggled to hold pressure at the end of last season, don't wait — rebuild or replace it now. Pump kits are far cheaper than a mid-season breakdown.

3. Inspect All Hoses and Fittings

Hoses take a beating — UV exposure, chemical contact, pressure cycles, and temperature swings all degrade rubber and plastic over time.

What to look for:

Cracks, bulges, or soft spots in hose walls
Brittleness or stiffness in suction hoses (especially EPDM and PVC)
Loose or corroded fittings and clamps
Worn O-rings at quick couplers and boom connections

Replace any hose that shows cracking or significant stiffness. A $40 hose replacement now beats a $400 chemical spill and lost application time later.

4. Clean and Inspect Your Nozzles

Nozzles are your most critical spray accuracy component — and the most overlooked. Worn or partially clogged nozzles throw off your rate, pattern, and droplet size, leading to poor coverage, drift issues, and wasted chemical.

Nozzle inspection checklist:

Remove all nozzle tips and soak in warm water or nozzle cleaner
Use a soft brush (never wire) to clean tip orifices
Check flow rate — a nozzle flowing more than 10% over its rated output should be replaced
Inspect nozzle bodies, caps, and check valves for wear or damage
Replace diaphragm check valves if they're not seating cleanly

💡 Pro tip: TeeJet and other major nozzle manufacturers recommend replacing tips every season or every 25,000 acres — whichever comes first. If you can't remember the last time you replaced them, it's time.

5. Test Your Boom

Walk the entire boom before you ever fill the tank.

What to check:

Boom sections fold and unfold smoothly without binding
All boom plumbing connections are tight and leak-free
Boom height indicators and leveling systems are functioning
End nozzles and boom caps are in place
Section control solenoids are operating correctly (if equipped)

If you run a rate controller or section control system, this is also the time to verify your flow meter calibration and controller settings before you're in the field.

6. Inspect Filters and Strainers

A plugged strainer is one of the most common causes of pressure problems and nozzle issues. Check every filter in the system:

Tank strainer/suction screen — clean or replace
In-line boom strainer — clean and inspect screen for holes or tears
Individual nozzle screens — clean or replace; match mesh size to your nozzle manufacturer's recommendation
Pump inlet strainer — often overlooked; check for debris

7. Check Tires, Wheel Bolts, and Lighting

If you're running a self-propelled sprayer, don't skip the mechanical basics:

Check tire pressure and inspect for sidewall cracking
Torque wheel bolts to spec
Test all lighting — field work often runs into low-light hours
Check fluid levels: engine oil, hydraulic fluid, coolant, DEF
Inspect air filter and replace if needed

8. Calibrate Before You Spray

Even a perfectly maintained sprayer needs calibration before the first application. Verify:

Actual vs. target flow rate at your operating pressure
Ground speed accuracy — GPS or radar calibration
Boom section control — confirm each section opens and closes correctly
Rate controller — run a calibration pass with water before chemical

A 5% calibration error across 5,000 acres of herbicide application is a significant cost. Take the time to get it right.

Stock Up on Sprayer Parts Before the Season Peaks

Parts availability tightens fast once spray season kicks in. Dealers and distributors run low on common wear items — nozzles, pump kits, hoses, fittings, and check valves — right when everyone needs them most.

Quality Farm Supply stocks a full line of sprayer parts and supplies, including:

TeeJet nozzles, nozzle bodies, and check valves
Ace Pump rebuild kits and replacement pumps
Kanaflex sprayer hose in multiple diameters
Boom fittings, quick couplers, and plumbing components
Filters, strainers, and screens

Order now and ship fast — most orders leave our warehouse same or next business day.

Pre-Season Sprayer Maintenance Checklist (Quick Reference)

Flush and inspect tank and agitator
Inspect and rebuild/replace pump
Check all hoses and fittings for wear
Clean and flow-test all nozzles
Inspect boom plumbing and fold function
Clean all filters and strainers
Check tires, fluids, and lighting (self-propelled)
Calibrate rate controller and boom sections

Quality Farm Supply is your source for ag sprayer parts, nozzles, pumps, hoses, and more. Fast shipping. Competitive pricing. No dealer markup.

Converting Your Tractor's R12 A/C System to R134a: What You Need to Know

2026-03-31T11:12:21-05:00

Converting an older tractor from R12 (Freon) to R134a is often a matter of necessity, but it also offers several practical advantages for long-term maintenance.

1. Cost and Availability

R12 refrigerant was phased out in the 1990s due to environmental regulations. As a result, it is extremely expensive and difficult to find. R134a is the modern industry standard, available at any auto parts or farm supply store for a fraction of the price.

2. Environmental Impact

R12 is a Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) that significantly contributes to ozone depletion. R134a is a Hydrofluorocarbon (HFC); while still a greenhouse gas, it has zero ozone depletion potential, making it the much "greener" choice for the environment.

3. Ease of Service

Because R134a is the standard for almost all modern machinery, most mobile mechanics and shops are fully equipped to service these systems. Finding a technician with the specific equipment and remaining stockpiles of R12 to vacuum and recharge an old system is becoming nearly impossible.

What Is Required for a Proper Conversion?

You cannot simply "drop in" R134a into an R12 system. A successful conversion typically requires:

Flushing the System: R12 systems use mineral oil, which does not mix with the PAG or ESTER oils used in R134a systems. If mixed, they can form a sludge that destroys the compressor.
New Receiver/Dryer: The desiccant (moisture-absorbing material) in an R12 dryer is often incompatible with R134a and can disintegrate.
O-Rings and Seals: R134a molecules are smaller than R12 molecules, meaning they can leak through older, porous rubber seals. Modern HNBR (green) O-rings are required.
Charge Ports: You must install retrofit adapters so that modern R134a service hoses can connect to the system, which also serves as a visual indicator that the system has been converted.

Performance Note

R134a is slightly less efficient at heat exchange than R12. In older tractors with smaller condensers, you might notice a small drop in cooling power when idling. This is why many farmers choose to upgrade to a Sanden-style compressor and a larger condenser at the same time they convert the refrigerant.

York to Sanden Compressor Conversion: The Smart Upgrade for Your Tractor

2026-03-31T11:09:10-05:00

Converting your tractor from a York compressor to a Sanden or Sanden-Style system is one of the most effective ways to modernize an older machine. While York compressors were the industry standard for decades, they are heavy, piston-driven units that lack the efficiency and smoothness of modern rotary designs.

Key Advantages of the Sanden Conversion

💰 Significant Power Savings
York compressors are known as "horsepower hogs." A Sanden-style compressor is much lighter and uses a rotary design that robs less engine power, leading to better fuel economy and more power available for your actual field work.
🔇 Reduced Vibration and Noise
Because the Sanden-style unit uses a rotary motion rather than the large reciprocating pistons found in the York, it operates with almost no vibration. This leads to a quieter cab environment and less wear and tear on mounting brackets and belts.
🛡️ Improved Reliability
The York's ceramic shaft seal is notorious for leaking, especially if the tractor sits unused during the off-season. Sanden-style compressors use modern lip seals that are far more durable and less prone to leaking.
🔧 Easier Maintenance
York parts are becoming harder to find and more expensive. Sanden-style units are the current global standard — they are widely available, affordable, and designed to work perfectly with R134a refrigerant.

Popular Conversion Kits

Most kits are designed to be "bolt-on," meaning they include brackets that use your original York mounting points so you don't have to fabricate new parts.

Feature	International Conversion Kit	John Deere Conversion Kit	Case IH Conversion Kit
Best For	IH 1066, 1086, 1480	JD 4040, 4240, 4440	Case 2090, 2294, 2394
Includes	OE Sanden, Manifold, Brackets	Sanden Unit, Mounts, Hardware	Compressor, Brackets, O-Rings
Refrigerant	R134a Ready	R134a Ready	R134a Ready
Design	SD7H15 Rotary Style	SD7H15 Rotary Style	SD7H15 Rotary Style

💡 Installation Tip

When you make the switch, it is highly recommended to replace your receiver-dryer and expansion valve at the same time. Most manufacturers require this to validate the warranty on the new compressor, as it ensures no old debris or moisture from the York system damages the new rotary unit.

York vs. Sanden: Side-by-Side Comparison

Feature	Original York Compressor	Sanden-Style Upgrade
Weight & Size	Heavy, bulky piston unit	Compact & Lightweight
Engine Power Draw	High — "horsepower hog"	Low engine drag
Vibration	High — reciprocating pistons	Almost none — rotary design
Seal Type	Leak-prone ceramic seal	Modern lip seals
Refrigerant	R12 (Legacy / Expensive)	R134a (Modern / Affordable)
Parts Availability	Scarce & expensive	Widely available globally
Off-Season Reliability	Prone to seal leaks when idle	Holds up through off-season

Ready to Ditch the York?

Browse our full selection of York-to-Sanden conversion kits — bolt-on fitment for International, John Deere, Case IH, and more. Everything included, ready to ship.

Shop York to Sanden Kits →

A6 vs. Sanden Compressor: Why Modern AC Conversion Kits Win

2026-03-31T11:04:40-05:00

Replacing the original Delco/Frigidaire A6 compressor with a modern Sanden-style rotary compressor is one of the most common upgrades for older tractors. While the A6 was a "workhorse" for decades, its design has several limitations that modern kits overcome.

Key Advantages of Sanden-Style Compressors

⚡ Higher Efficiency and Less Power Draw
The A6 is a heavy, piston-driven unit that requires significant horsepower to operate. Sanden units are lighter and more efficient, meaning they put less "drag" on the engine — leading to better fuel economy and more power available for the tractor's actual work.
🔇 Reduced Vibration and Noise
Because Sanden-style compressors use a rotary design rather than large reciprocating pistons, they operate much more smoothly — reducing vibration felt in the cab and noise level under the hood.
❄️ Modern Refrigerant Compatibility
Most A6 units were originally designed for R12 refrigerant, which is no longer produced. Sanden conversion kits are specifically built for R134a, including compatible seals and oils (like PAG 100), ensuring the system remains serviceable for years.
🛡️ Reliability and Leak Prevention
A major weakness of the original A6 was the ceramic shaft seal, which was prone to leaking if the tractor sat unused for long periods — common in seasonal farming. Sanden compressors use modern lip seals that are far more durable and less likely to leak during the off-season.

Popular Conversion Options

Most kits include the necessary mounting brackets and manifold adapters to let you use your existing hoses and belts.

Feature	John Deere Sanden Kit	International Sanden Kit	General Sanden Retrofit
Best For	John Deere 4440, 4630, 8440	IH 1440, 1460, 1480 Combines	Multi-model retrofits
Includes	Brackets, Switches, Adapters	OE Sanden, Manifold, Brackets	Compressor & Hardware
Design	SD7H15 Rotary Style	SD7H15 Rotary Style	Genuine Sanden Unit
Refrigerant	R134a Ready	R134a Ready	R134a Ready

Comparison: A6 vs. Sanden Conversion

Feature	Original Delco A6	Sanden-Style Upgrade
Weight	Very heavy (piston-style)	Compact & Lightweight
Power Consumption	High engine drag	Low engine drag
Seal Type	Leak-prone ceramic seal	Modern lip seals
Refrigerant	R12 (Legacy)	R134a (Modern)
Operation	Loud with more vibration	Quiet & Smooth

Ready to Upgrade Your Tractor's AC?

Browse our full selection of Sanden-style AC conversion kits — built for John Deere, International, Case IH, Kubota, and more.

Shop AC Conversion Kits →

The In-Season Planter Spare Parts Kit Every Farmer Should Have Before April | Quality Farm Supply

2026-03-11T08:26:33-05:00

The In-Season Planter Spare Parts Kit Every Farmer Should Have Before April | Quality Farm Supply

The In-Season Planter Spare Parts Kit Every Farmer Should Have Before April

Corn and soybean planting windows are unforgiving. When your planter goes down at 6 AM on a Tuesday in April, the difference between a half-day delay and a full-day loss often comes down to a $15 bearing or a worn disc blade you meant to replace last fall.

The most common cause of mid-season planter failure isn't catastrophic — it's small wear parts that were "good enough" at planting but never replaced. Bearings, bushings, springs, and guards account for the majority of in-field downtime. The farmers who keep moving are the ones who stocked the right parts before the season started.

At Quality Farm Supply, we've put together this spare parts kit checklist covering the most common mid-season failures — the parts your row units, gauge wheels, and closing assemblies depend on every single pass. Review the list below, build your kit now, and be ready before the field calls.

1. Bearings

Bearings are the #1 in-season failure. One seized bearing can destroy a hub or arm in minutes — and finding a replacement at 7 AM in a rural county is rarely an option.

Carry per planter:

(2–4) Disc opener bearings
(2–4) Gauge wheel bearings
(2) Closing wheel bearings
(1–2) Row cleaner bearings (if equipped)

2. Seed Tubes & Seed Delivery Parts

Cracked or worn seed tubes cause skips and doubles that are nearly impossible to spot until stand loss appears at emergence — by then, it's too late to recover the yield.

Carry per 2–4 rows:

(1) Seed tube
(1) Seed tube guard
(1) Seed tube retaining clip/spring
(1) Seed tube sensor (if equipped)

3. Parallel Arm & Row Unit Hardware

Excess play in parallel arms is easy to overlook in the shop but shows up fast mid-season when soils firm up and field speed increases. A loose arm means inconsistent depth — and inconsistent depth means inconsistent yield.

Carry per planter:

(2) Parallel arm bushings
(2) Parallel arm bolts/pins
(2) Grease zerks (assorted sizes)

4. Gauge Wheel & Depth Control Hardware

A bent gauge wheel arm or a lost shim instantly ruins depth control on that row. You won't know it's happening from the cab until the stand tells you.

Carry per 4–6 rows:

(1) Gauge wheel arm
(1) Gauge wheel shim kit
(1) Gauge wheel bolt & nut set

5. Drive System (Chains, Sprockets & Springs)

A broken spring or stretched chain quietly shuts off a row. No alarm, no warning — just a row that stops planting while everything else keeps moving.

Carry per planter:

(1) Primary drive chain
(1) Seed meter drive chain
(1) Chain tensioner spring
(1) Idler sprocket

6. Downforce System Parts

Loss of downforce causes instant depth inconsistency across the affected row. Whether you're running mechanical springs, air bags, or hydraulic downforce, carry the parts to get back to spec in the field.

Carry per planter:

(1) Down pressure spring
(1) Air bag repair kit (if air downforce)
(1) Hydraulic hose (common size)

7. Seed Meter Wear Parts

Meter wear shows up as population errors long before a full failure — and population errors cost yield without ever triggering a fault code. Don't wait for the meter to fail completely.

Carry per planter:

(1) Meter brush or knock-off
(1) Vacuum seal/gasket
(1) Meter belt or finger set

8. Electrical & Sensor Parts

Vibration, residue, and moisture kill connectors mid-season. A failed seed sensor or a corroded pigtail can take a row monitor offline and leave you guessing on population for the rest of the field.

Carry per planter:

(1) Seed sensor
(1) Short wiring pigtail
(2–3) Weather-Pack connectors
(Assorted) Zip ties

9. Closing System Parts

Broken closing wheel springs or wobbling wheels leave open seed trenches you won't see from the cab. Poor trench closure means poor seed-to-soil contact — and that costs germination.

Carry per 4–6 rows:

(1) Closing wheel
(1) Closing wheel arm bolt
(1) Closing wheel spring

10. Hardware & "Save the Day" Items

No kit is complete without the basics. These are the items that bridge the gap between a field repair and a tow back to the shop.

Always carry:

Grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers
Cotter pins & roll pins
Duct tape & electrical tape
Graphite lubricant
Penetrating oil
Grease cartridges

Build Your Spare Parts Kit Before the Season Starts

The farmers who lose the least time during planting season aren't lucky — they're prepared. A well-stocked spare parts kit costs a fraction of what a single day of downtime costs in lost planting acres, hired labor, and yield drag from late emergence.

Quality Farm Supply stocks all of the parts on this list, with fast shipping and deep inventory across major planter brands including John Deere, Case IH, Kinze, Great Plains, and more.

Build Your Spare Parts Kit Now — Shop Planter Parts at Quality Farm Supply →

Don't wait for the field to tell you what you're missing.

The Complete Guide to Selecting the Right Agricultural Sprayer Tip

2026-03-05T08:44:41-06:00

The Complete Guide to Selecting the Right Agricultural Sprayer Tip

Choosing the correct sprayer tip is one of the most critical decisions you'll make for effective crop protection and nutrient application. The wrong tip can lead to drift, poor coverage, wasted chemicals, and reduced efficacy. Here's everything you need to know to select the right sprayer tip for your operation.

Understanding Sprayer Tip Basics

Agricultural sprayer tips control three key factors:

Flow rate - How much liquid is applied per minute
Spray pattern - The shape and distribution of the spray
Droplet size - The size of individual spray droplets

Key Factors in Tip Selection

1. Application Type

Herbicides: Require medium to coarse droplets to minimize drift while maintaining coverage. Look for tips rated for 200-400 micron droplets.

Fungicides: Need fine to medium droplets for thorough canopy penetration and leaf coverage. Tips producing 150-250 micron droplets work best.

Insecticides: Similar to fungicides, requiring good coverage with fine to medium droplets.

Liquid Fertilizers: Can use coarser droplets (300-500 microns) since drift is less critical and you want efficient ground coverage.

2. Spray Pressure

Operating pressure directly affects droplet size and pattern quality:

Low pressure (15-30 PSI): Produces larger droplets, reduces drift, but may sacrifice coverage
Medium pressure (30-60 PSI): Balanced droplet size for most applications
High pressure (60+ PSI): Creates finer droplets, better coverage, but increased drift risk

Always operate within the manufacturer's recommended pressure range for your chosen tip.

3. Travel Speed and Boom Height

Your ground speed and boom height affect the gallons per acre (GPA) you'll apply:

Faster speeds require higher flow rates to maintain GPA
Lower boom heights need narrower spray angles to prevent gaps
Higher boom heights allow wider spray angles but increase drift potential

Formula: GPA = (GPM × 5,940) ÷ (MPH × nozzle spacing in inches)

4. Tip Color Coding

Most manufacturers use ISO color coding:

Orange: 0.1 GPM at 40 PSI
Green: 0.15 GPM at 40 PSI
Yellow: 0.2 GPM at 40 PSI
Blue: 0.3 GPM at 40 PSI
Red: 0.4 GPM at 40 PSI
Brown: 0.5 GPM at 40 PSI

Common Tip Types

Flat Fan Tips

Best for broadcast applications of herbicides and fertilizers. Provide even coverage with overlapping spray patterns.

Turbo or Air Induction Tips

Produce larger, air-filled droplets that resist drift while maintaining coverage. Ideal for windy conditions.

Flood Tips

Create very coarse droplets for high-volume applications and situations where drift must be minimized.

Cone Tips

Hollow and full cone tips provide 360° coverage, excellent for fungicides and insecticides requiring canopy penetration.

Drift Management

Drift is a major concern in agricultural spraying. To minimize drift:

Use air induction or drift-reduction tips
Increase droplet size when conditions allow
Spray when wind speeds are 3-10 MPH
Lower boom height to reduce droplet travel time
Avoid spraying in temperature inversions

Tip Maintenance and Replacement

Replace tips when:

Flow rate increases by 10% or more from new
Spray pattern becomes uneven or streaky
Physical damage or wear is visible
After approximately 500-1,000 acres of use (varies by tip material)

Pro Tip: Keep a flow meter and regularly check tip output to catch wear early.

Material Matters

Brass: Economical but wears quickly with abrasive chemicals

Stainless Steel: 3-5x longer life than brass, good chemical resistance

Ceramic: 10-15x longer life than brass, excellent for abrasive materials

Polymer: Lightweight, corrosion-resistant, good for acidic chemicals

Making Your Selection

Follow these steps:

Determine your target application rate (GPA)
Calculate required flow rate based on speed and nozzle spacing
Select tip type based on chemical and coverage needs
Choose tip size (color) to achieve desired flow rate at optimal pressure
Verify droplet size classification matches application requirements
Consider drift-reduction features for your conditions

Final Thoughts

The right sprayer tip is an investment in application efficiency, environmental stewardship, and crop performance. Don't compromise on quality, and always keep spare tips on hand for different applications and weather conditions.

Need help selecting the right tips for your sprayer? Browse our selection of agricultural sprayer tips and nozzles, or contact our team for personalized recommendations based on your equipment and application needs.

Your 10-Point Spring Equipment Checklist: Get Ready for Planting Season

2026-02-24T14:51:57-06:00

Spring is Here - Is Your Equipment Ready?

As temperatures rise and fields begin to dry, it's time to ensure your farm equipment is ready for the busy planting season ahead. Use this comprehensive 10-point checklist to prepare your machinery and avoid costly downtime when you need it most.

1. Inspect Hydraulic Systems

Check all hydraulic cylinders, hoses, and seals for leaks or wear. Replace any damaged components before they fail in the field. Don't forget to check hydraulic fluid levels and top off as needed.

2. Service Tillage Equipment

Examine disc blades, cultivator sweeps, and field cultivator components for wear. Replace worn disc blades (18", 20", 23" sizes) and sweeps to ensure proper soil preparation. Check disc bearings and hubs for smooth operation.

3. Prepare Planter Components

Inspect seed meters, disc openers, and closing wheels. Replace worn disc opener assemblies and check seed meter drive belts. Ensure proper spacing and alignment for accurate seed placement.

4. Check Tractor Fluids and Filters

Change engine oil, hydraulic fluid, and all filters. Inspect radiators and cooling systems - replace if showing signs of corrosion or leaks. Check antifreeze levels and concentration.

5. Inspect PTO Drivelines

Check all PTO shafts for proper lubrication, worn universal joints, and damaged shields. Replace any components showing wear to prevent breakdowns during critical operations.

6. Examine Wheels and Tires

Check tire pressure on all equipment. Inspect agricultural wheels (15", 16" sizes) for cracks or damage. Replace worn wheel bearings and ensure proper hub assembly.

7. Test Electrical Systems

Verify all lights, signals, and electronic controls are functioning. Check battery connections and charge levels. Replace any corroded terminals or weak batteries.

8. Lubricate All Grease Points

Grease all fittings on planters, tillage equipment, and implements. Pay special attention to pivot points, bearings, and chains that may have dried out over winter.

9. Inspect Chains, Belts, and Sprockets

Check drive chains for proper tension and wear. Replace stretched chains and worn sprockets. Inspect all belts for cracks, fraying, or glazing.

10. Stock Essential Replacement Parts

Keep critical spare parts on hand: disc blades, cultivator sweeps, hydraulic seals, bearings, hitch pins, and common fasteners. Having parts ready prevents costly delays during planting.

Don't Wait Until It's Too Late

Completing this checklist now - before you're in the field - saves time, money, and stress during the critical planting window. Most of these maintenance tasks can be completed in a weekend, and the investment in replacement parts pays for itself by preventing breakdowns.

Need Parts to Complete Your Checklist?

Quality Farm Supply stocks all the replacement parts you need for spring preparation:

Disc blades in all sizes (18", 20", 23")
Field cultivator sweeps and shovels
Hydraulic cylinders and seal kits
Planter disc openers and seed meters
Agricultural wheels and bearings
PTO driveline components
Tractor radiators and cooling parts
Chains, belts, and sprockets

Order now to ensure you have everything ready before the rush. Fast shipping available on all in-stock items.

Questions about which parts you need? Contact our team - we're here to help you get ready for a successful planting season.

Why You Should Replace Your Planter Bearings Every Year

2026-02-09T15:51:47-06:00

The Hidden Cost of Worn Planter Bearings

When it comes to planting season, every detail matters. While it might be tempting to squeeze another year out of your planter bearings, this decision could cost you far more than the price of replacement parts. Here's why annual bearing replacement should be a non-negotiable part of your pre-season maintenance routine.

Precision Planting Starts with Fresh Bearings

Planter bearings play a critical role in maintaining consistent seed depth and spacing. As bearings wear throughout the season, they develop play and wobble that directly impacts planting accuracy. Even minor inconsistencies in seed placement can result in uneven emergence, reduced stands, and ultimately, lower yields.

Fresh bearings ensure your planter units maintain the tight tolerances needed for precision agriculture. When you're investing in quality seed and variable rate technology, worn bearings can undermine all of that investment.

Preventing Costly Mid-Season Failures

There's never a good time for equipment failure, but a bearing failure during planting season is particularly devastating. When you're racing against weather windows and optimal soil conditions, even a few hours of downtime can mean the difference between planting in ideal conditions or settling for less.

Annual bearing replacement is insurance against mid-season breakdowns. The cost of new bearings is minimal compared to the expense of emergency repairs, expedited shipping, and most importantly, the yield loss from delayed or suboptimal planting.

Protecting Your Investment in Planter Components

Worn bearings don't just affect themselves—they accelerate wear on surrounding components. When bearings develop excessive play, they create abnormal stress on shafts, bushings, and mounting points. This cascading wear can turn a simple bearing replacement into a major rebuild.

By replacing bearings annually, you protect the more expensive components of your planter. It's preventive maintenance that pays dividends by extending the overall life of your equipment.

The Math Makes Sense

Let's break down the economics. A set of quality planter bearings represents a small fraction of your total input costs per acre. Compare that to the potential yield loss from poor emergence, the cost of downtime during critical planting windows, or the expense of repairing damage caused by failed bearings.

Most farmers find that the return on investment for annual bearing replacement is measured in the first few acres planted. The peace of mind and consistent performance throughout the season are simply bonuses.

Best Practices for Bearing Replacement

Make bearing replacement part of your off-season maintenance checklist. This gives you time to:

Inspect all planter components while bearings are out
Order quality replacement parts without rush charges
Complete the work without the pressure of an approaching planting window
Test and adjust your planter before you need it in the field

Choose Quality Replacement Parts

Not all bearings are created equal. When you're replacing bearings annually, it's tempting to look for the cheapest option. However, quality bearings from reputable manufacturers will perform more consistently throughout the season and are less likely to fail prematurely.

Look for bearings that are specifically designed for agricultural applications, with proper sealing to keep out dust and debris. The small premium you pay for quality parts is worth it for the reliability and performance they deliver.The photo above shows uneven emergence caused by inconsistent planting.

The Bottom Line

Annual planter bearing replacement isn't an expense—it's an investment in yield, reliability, and peace of mind. When you consider the critical role your planter plays in your operation's success, keeping it running at peak performance with fresh bearings every year is simply good business.

Don't wait until you hear grinding or feel excessive play. Make bearing replacement a routine part of your annual maintenance, and your planter will reward you with consistent, reliable performance when it matters most.

Ready to get your planter ready for the season? Browse our complete selection of planter parts and bearings to find exactly what you need for your equipment.

How to Select the Proper Sweeps Based on Soil Type

2026-01-28T15:18:50-06:00

Choosing the right sweeps for your field cultivator, chisel plow, or row-crop cultivator can have a major impact on soil finish, residue flow, fuel efficiency, and the quality of your seedbed. With dozens of sweep styles, widths, and materials on the market, knowing which one performs best in your soil type is key to maximizing tillage performance.

This guide breaks down how to choose the proper sweeps based on soil structure, moisture, residue, and your intended tillage depth.

Why Sweep Selection Matters

Sweeps influence:

Penetration and soil shattering
Weed control effectiveness
Residue movement and flow
Fuel consumption
Wear life and replacement cost
Seedbed consistency for planting

Using the wrong sweep can lead to streaking, poor mixing, uneven depth, or excessive wear—all of which cost time and money.

1. Light or Sandy Soils

Best Sweep Type: Low-disturbance sweeps or standard field-cultivator sweeps

Characteristics of Sandy/Light Soils

Easy to penetrate
Low compaction
Prone to blowing when over-disturbed
Minimal resistance on tillage tools

Recommended Sweeps

47° or 50° sweeps (less aggressive)
Narrower widths (7"–9") for controlled disturbance
Quick-change sweeps that maintain consistent pitch
High-wear chrome or carbide tips if sand content is high

Why These Work

Sandy soils don't need aggressive shattering. A less aggressive sweep maintains residue, minimizes blowout, and reduces fuel use while still providing adequate soil fracture for weed control.

2. Loam and Silt Loam Soils (Most Common Conditions)

Best Sweep Type: General-purpose sweeps, 50°–54°, 7"–12" width

Characteristics of Loam Soils

Balanced moisture retention
Moderate residue incorporation
Respond well to fracture and mixing
Versatile tillage conditions

Recommended Sweeps

50° general-purpose sweeps for full-width tillage
54° sweeps when additional lift or fracture is needed
10"–12" widths for broad sweep and weed control
Winged sweeps for full undercutting and weed kill

Why These Work

Loam soils allow for a full-spectrum sweep to mix soil and residue efficiently while maintaining a smooth seedbed. These conditions offer the most flexibility in sweep selection.

3. Heavy Clay and Clay Loam Soils

Best Sweep Type: High-pitch, aggressive sweeps

Characteristics of Clay Soils

High compaction potential
Can smear when wet
Require significant lift and fracture
Challenging for residue incorporation
High draft loads on equipment

Recommended Sweeps

54°–55° aggressive sweeps for deep lifting
High-strength shanks to handle draft load
Narrower sweeps (6"–9") if soil is sticky
High-wear chrome sweeps if soil is abrasive
Reduced width to prevent smearing in wet conditions

Why These Work

Clay requires more force to break up and lift. Aggressive pitch sweeps fracture compaction layers and leave a looser surface, improving water infiltration and root penetration for the following crop.

4. High-Residue Fields (Corn-on-Corn, Cover Crops)

Best Sweep Type: High-clearance, low-plugging sweeps

Challenges in High-Residue Systems

Hair-pinning of residue
Plugging between shanks
Uneven residue distribution
Reduced soil-to-sweep contact
Increased draft requirements

Recommended Sweeps

Narrow sweeps (6"–7") for smoother residue flow
High-clearance wing designs
Sweeps with extended necks
Sweeps with reduced pitch to prevent flipping residue into bunches
Twisted or curved shanks for better residue clearance

Why These Work

Narrow, streamlined sweeps maintain soil fracture while allowing massive residue to pass without plugging. This is critical in continuous corn or heavy cover crop systems where residue volume can overwhelm conventional sweeps.

5. Hard or Compacted Soils

Best Sweep Type: Chisel spikes or ripper points, not traditional sweeps

While not technically "sweeps," certain ground conditions call for different tools.

When to Upgrade to Spikes/Points

Fields with rutting or wheel-track compaction
Heavy livestock traffic areas
Long-term no-till transitioning back to tillage
Very tight clay in dry years
Hardpan layers requiring deep fracture

Recommended Tools

2" or 3" chisel spikes
Parabolic points
Low-draft ripper points
Carbide-tipped deep-till points
Bentleg shanks for deep penetration

Why These Work

Sweeps are designed for shallow, horizontal fracture. Severe compaction requires vertical tillage tools that can penetrate hardpan and shatter compacted layers without excessive surface disturbance.

6. Soil Moisture Considerations

Soil moisture at the time of tillage significantly impacts sweep performance and selection.

If Soil is Wet

Avoid wide sweeps that increase smearing
Use narrow, low-pitch designs
Reduce speed to avoid smearing and compaction
Consider delaying tillage until conditions improve
Watch for soil balling on sweeps

If Soil is Dry

Wider sweeps help maintain soil lift
Higher pitch improves soil shatter
Chrome sweeps reduce abrasive wear
Increase depth slightly to reach moisture
Monitor for excessive dust and pulverization

7. Material Choices: Standard, Chrome, or Carbide

Sweep material affects both performance and cost over time.

Standard Sweeps

Lowest upfront cost
Shortest wear life
Good for lighter soils with minimal abrasion
Require more frequent replacement
Pitch changes as they wear

Chrome Sweeps

2–3x longer wear life than standard
Best for sandy or abrasive soils
Maintain consistent pitch as they wear
Better value in high-wear conditions
Moderate price point

Carbide Sweeps

Longest life (5x+ standard sweeps)
Ideal for rocky or heavy clay conditions
Highest upfront cost
Best ROI in extremely abrasive conditions
Maintain sharp edge throughout life

Sweep Width Selection Guide

Width affects coverage, residue flow, and draft requirements:

6"–7" sweeps: High-residue fields, narrow row spacing, reduced draft
8"–9" sweeps: General purpose, balanced performance
10"–12" sweeps: Maximum coverage, weed control, lighter soils
13"+ sweeps: Specialized applications, very light soils, minimal residue

Sweep Pitch Explained

Pitch angle determines how aggressively the sweep lifts and fractures soil:

47°–50°: Low disturbance, residue preservation, lighter soils
50°–52°: General purpose, balanced lift and flow
54°–55°: Aggressive lift, heavy soils, deep fracture
55°+: Maximum lift, severe compaction, specialized applications

Common Sweep Selection Mistakes

Using the same sweep across all soil types
Choosing width based only on coverage, not soil conditions
Ignoring moisture conditions at tillage time
Replacing worn sweeps with different pitch angles
Mixing sweep types on the same toolbar
Buying cheapest option without considering wear life

Maintenance and Replacement Tips

Inspect sweeps regularly for wear and damage
Replace sweeps when worn to 50% of original width
Check bolt torque before each season
Replace all sweeps at once to maintain consistent depth
Keep spare sweeps and bolts on hand
Store sweeps in dry location to prevent rust

Conclusion

Selecting the right sweeps based on soil type results in smoother tillage, better mixing, improved weed control, and a more consistent seedbed. While there's no one-size-fits-all option, matching sweep pitch, width, and material to your soil conditions can dramatically improve field performance and reduce maintenance costs.

Understanding your soil type, residue levels, and moisture conditions allows you to make informed decisions that improve tillage efficiency, reduce fuel consumption, and create better seedbeds for optimal crop establishment.

Quality Farm Supply stocks a complete selection of sweeps in multiple pitches, widths, and materials for all major tillage equipment brands. Whether you're working sandy loam or heavy clay, we have the right sweep for your operation.

A Complete Guide to Disc Blade Types — and When to Use Each One

2026-01-28T13:18:11-06:00

Disc blades might look simple, but choosing the right type can make a massive difference in residue flow, soil penetration, wear life, fuel efficiency, and overall field finish. Whether you're running a disc harrow, vertical tillage tool, or no-till coulter system, the blade you select determines how your machine performs in different soil and residue conditions.

This guide breaks down disc blade types, profiles, materials, and exactly where each one excels.

1. Smooth Disc Blades

Best For: Light to medium soils, residue incorporation, secondary tillage, creating a fine soil finish

Smooth blades are the most common disc type and offer consistent cutting and mixing. Their continuous edge provides even penetration and uniform soil flow across the entire blade circumference.

Use Smooth Blades When:

You need a fine, level seedbed
You're working in soils with moderate moisture
You want good residue chopping and soil mixing
Performing secondary tillage or finishing passes
Working fields with light to moderate residue

Avoid Smooth Blades When:

You're in heavy clay or extremely hard soils
You need aggressive cutting power for thick residue
Soil conditions are very dry and compacted

2. Notched Disc Blades

Best For: Hard or compacted soils, heavy residue fields (corn-on-corn, cover crops), situations requiring extra bite or penetration

Notched blades have cut-out sections along the edge that grab residue and bite into tough ground. They're ideal for primary tillage where breaking through dense material is critical. The notches create an aggressive cutting action that smooth blades can't match.

Use Notched Blades When:

Your fields have thick residue that tends to slide over smooth blades
Soil is hard, dry, or compacted
You want extra cutting action and penetration
Working corn stalks or heavy cover crop biomass
Performing primary tillage in tough conditions

Avoid Notched Blades When:

You need a smooth finish (notched blades leave a rougher texture)
You're doing shallow finishing passes
Working in soft, friable soils where aggressive action isn't needed

3. Combination (Smooth/Notched) Disc Blades

Best For: Mixed soil types, operators who want versatility, moderate residue conditions

These blades alternate notched and smooth sections around the circumference. The notches help with biting and penetration, while the smooth sections provide a more polished finish. This hybrid design offers balanced performance across varying field conditions.

Use Combination Blades When:

You work across variable soil textures in the same field
You need some cutting action without sacrificing smoothness
You want a versatile all-around blade
Residue levels vary across your operation
You prefer one blade type for multiple applications

Avoid Combination Blades When:

Your residue load is extremely high (full notched is better)
You need maximum cutting force
You require the finest possible finish

4. Rippled / Fluted Disc Blades

Best For: Vertical tillage systems, minimal soil disturbance, high-speed residue sizing

Rippled or fluted blades have wavy edges that lift and size residue without aggressive soil inversion. They're commonly used on vertical tillage tools that aim for fast, shallow, high-speed work. The rippled edge creates a slicing action that sizes residue while leaving it on the surface.

Use Rippled Blades When:

You want residue sizing without burying it
You're promoting faster soil warming in spring
You prefer a low-disturbance system
Working at higher speeds (8+ mph)
Managing cover crops or light residue

Avoid Rippled Blades When:

You need deep penetration
You're doing primary tillage
Heavy residue burial is required

5. Turbo / Wavy Coulter Blades

Best For: No-till and strip-till systems, opening a narrow slice for seed placement, cutting residue ahead of planter openers

Turbo or wavy coulters are designed for high-speed slicing with minimal soil disturbance. Their shallow profile creates just enough disturbance to cut residue without disrupting soil structure. The wavy edge helps prevent hair-pinning and improves residue flow.

Use Turbo Coulters When:

You need residue cutting ahead of row units
You're planting into heavy mulch or cover crops
You want reduced hair-pinning
Running no-till or strip-till planters
Working at planting speeds

Avoid Turbo Coulters When:

You need soil mixing rather than slicing
You're working deeper than 3"–4"
Primary tillage is the goal

6. Concave vs. Flat Blades — Understanding Blade Profile

Blade profile (concavity) determines how aggressively the disc moves soil laterally and vertically.

Concave Disc Blades

Best For: Soil mixing, lifting, and lateral movement

Concave blades have a dished or cupped shape that scoops soil aggressively, creating inversion and good residue burial. The degree of concavity affects how much soil is thrown and how much mixing occurs.

Use Concave Blades When:

Performing primary tillage
You need significant soil movement
Creating raised, ridged passes is acceptable
Residue burial is desired
Working deeper than 4"

Flat Disc Blades

Best For: Vertical tillage and shallow finishing

Flat blades penetrate lightly and lift minimally, perfect for leveling and residue sizing without significant soil disturbance. They cut vertically with minimal lateral throw.

Use Flat Blades When:

You want minimal soil disturbance
You're preparing fields without burying residue
You're breaking crust or smoothing after heavy rain
Vertical tillage is the objective
Working shallow (2"–3")

7. Blade Thickness and Material Choice

Material and thickness directly affect wear life, cutting performance, and horsepower requirements.

Standard Boron Steel

Most economical option
Good for lighter and moderate soils
Adequate wear life in non-abrasive conditions
Typical thickness: 4mm–6mm

High-Carbon / High-Boron Blades

More durable than standard steel
Better for abrasive soils
Hold edge longer
2–3x wear life compared to standard
Better value in sandy or rocky conditions

Increased Thickness (6mm–8mm)

Significantly longer life
Better for rocky or sandy fields
Reduced flexing under load
May require more horsepower
Best ROI in high-wear conditions

Important: Thicker blades last longer but may require more horsepower and can affect penetration in hard soils.

8. How to Match Blades to Your Soil Type

Sandy / Light Soils

Smooth or combination blades
Thinner materials are usually acceptable
High-carbon steel recommended due to abrasion
Moderate concavity for mixing

Loam / Silt Loam

Smooth or notched depending on residue
Concave blades for mixing
Standard to high-carbon materials
Most versatile soil type for blade selection

Clay / Heavy Soils

Notched blades are best for penetration
Higher concavity for lift and fracture
Thicker blades to handle draft loads
Avoid working when too wet (smearing)

High-Residue Fields

Notched or fluted blades
Turbo blades for planters or strip-till
Moderate to high concavity for burial
Consider blade spacing and gang angle

No-Till / Vertical Tillage

Turbo or fluted blades
Flat or low-concavity profiles
Wavy or rippled edges
Minimal soil disturbance priority

9. Blade Diameter Considerations

Blade diameter affects penetration, soil throw, and operational depth:

18"–20" blades: Standard for most disc harrows, good balance of penetration and soil movement
22"–24" blades: Deeper penetration, more aggressive soil movement, higher horsepower requirement
26"+ blades: Heavy-duty primary tillage, maximum penetration and soil fracture
Smaller coulters (13"–16"): Planters and strip-till, minimal disturbance, residue cutting

10. Maintenance and Replacement Guidelines

Inspect blades regularly for wear, cracks, or damage
Replace blades when worn to 75% of original diameter
Check blade bolt torque before each season
Replace all blades on a gang at the same time for consistent performance
Store equipment under cover to prevent rust
Keep spare blades and hardware on hand

Common Blade Selection Mistakes

Using smooth blades in heavy residue (causes plugging)
Running notched blades for finishing work (too rough)
Choosing blade type based only on price
Ignoring soil moisture conditions
Mixing different blade types on the same gang
Replacing worn blades with different profiles

Conclusion

Choosing the right disc blade ensures you get the soil movement, residue flow, and finish your operation requires. Matching blade type, profile, thickness, and material to your soil conditions improves tillage efficiency, reduces fuel consumption, extends blade life, and creates better seedbeds for optimal crop establishment.

The difference between a $40 standard blade and a $75 high-carbon blade is negligible compared to the fuel savings, reduced replacement frequency, and improved field performance over multiple seasons.

Quality Farm Supply stocks disc blades in all major types, sizes, and materials for disc harrows, vertical tillage tools, and planter coulter systems. Whether you're working sandy loam or heavy clay, we have the right blade for your operation.

Pre-Season Planter Maintenance: The Checklist That Sets Up a Successful Planting Season

2026-01-28T09:07:57-06:00

Planting season only comes once a year—and when it hits, every hour counts. A planter that's running at peak performance can mean better seed placement, more consistent emergence, and ultimately stronger yield potential. The best way to make that happen? A smart, thorough pre-season maintenance routine.

Below is a complete, practical checklist you can use (or publish) to get your planter field-ready long before the first acre is planted.

1. Start With a Deep Clean

Dust, seed treatment residue, and last season's debris can cause issues you won't notice until you're in the field. Clean the following areas thoroughly:

Seed hoppers and seed tubes
Meters and meter housings
Sensors and optical components
Brush belts (for high-speed planters)
Bulk-fill hoses and manifolds
Closing wheels and gauge wheels

A small amount of residue can throw off singulation, interfere with vacuum pressure, or cause inaccurate population readings. Start clean—it pays off fast.

2. Inspect and Service Seed Meters

Meters determine whether every seed lands exactly where it belongs. Before the season:

Disassemble and inspect all meter components
Replace worn discs, brushes, knockoffs, or belts
Check singulators for wear or grooves
Calibrate each meter (bench testing is ideal)
Clean vacuum ports and check for blockages
Verify proper vacuum pressure at each row unit

If you're running finger pickup meters, inspect fingers for wear and replace any that are cracked or bent. For vacuum meters, check the condition of the seed disc and replace if grooves are visible.

3. Check Seed Tubes and Delivery Systems

Seed tubes take a beating from rocks, debris, and normal wear. Inspect carefully:

Look for cracks, splits, or holes in seed tubes
Replace any damaged or worn tubes
Check mounting hardware and brackets
Verify seed tube alignment with furrow opener
Inspect seed tube guards (if equipped)

Even small damage can cause erratic seed placement or bouncing, leading to uneven emergence.

4. Inspect and Adjust Row Unit Components

Each row unit should be inspected individually:

Gauge Wheels

Check tire pressure and tread wear
Inspect bearings for play or roughness
Verify proper spacing from opener disc

Closing Wheels

Check for wear, flat spots, or damage
Inspect bearings and bushings
Verify proper alignment and down pressure

Furrow Openers

Inspect disc blades for wear or damage
Check blade sharpness and replace if needed
Verify proper spacing and alignment
Grease all pivot points and bearings

Down Pressure Systems

Test air bags or springs for leaks
Calibrate down pressure settings
Verify sensors are functioning (if equipped)

5. Service Drive Systems and Chains

Drive systems must be synchronized and properly tensioned:

Inspect all drive chains for wear and proper tension
Replace stretched or damaged chains
Lubricate chains and sprockets
Check hex shafts for wear
Verify clutches engage and disengage properly
Test drive system timing across all row units

6. Hydraulics and Electronics

Modern planters rely heavily on hydraulics and electronics:

Hydraulics

Check all hoses for cracks, abrasion, or leaks
Inspect fittings and connections
Test hydraulic motors and cylinders
Verify proper oil levels and condition

Electronics

Test all sensors and wiring harnesses
Update monitor software if needed
Verify GPS and auto-steer functionality
Check ground connections and battery voltage
Test population and spacing accuracy

7. Fertilizer and Chemical Systems

If your planter applies starter fertilizer or chemicals:

Flush all lines and tanks thoroughly
Inspect pumps and check valves
Replace worn nozzles or tubes
Calibrate application rates
Check for corrosion on metal components
Verify proper operation of shut-offs

8. Frame, Toolbar, and Transport

Don't overlook the planter's structural components:

Inspect toolbar for cracks or damage
Check all mounting bolts and hardware
Grease all pivot points and bearings
Test fold and unfold mechanisms
Verify transport locks engage properly
Check tire pressure on transport wheels
Test lights and SMV emblem visibility

9. Lubrication Schedule

Proper lubrication prevents premature wear:

Grease all zerk fittings on row units
Lubricate gauge wheel and closing wheel bearings
Grease toolbar pivot points
Lubricate drive chains
Check gearbox oil levels
Grease fold cylinders and hinges

10. Calibration and Testing

Before heading to the field:

Run a full population test on each row unit
Verify seed spacing accuracy
Test vacuum pressure under load
Calibrate depth settings
Run the planter and check for unusual noise or vibration
Verify monitor readings match actual performance

Final Pre-Season Checklist

Deep clean completed
All meters inspected and calibrated
Seed tubes and delivery systems checked
Row unit components serviced
Drive systems and chains adjusted
Hydraulics and electronics tested
Fertilizer systems flushed and calibrated
Frame and toolbar inspected
Full lubrication completed
Calibration and testing finished
Spare parts inventory stocked

Stock Your Spare Parts Now

Don't wait until you're broken down in the field. Keep these critical spares on hand:

Seed meter discs or belts
Seed tubes
Closing wheel bearings
Drive chains and master links
Hydraulic hoses and fittings
Electrical connectors
Gauge wheel tires
Opener disc blades

Conclusion

A thorough pre-season maintenance routine is the difference between a smooth planting season and costly downtime when conditions are perfect. Take the time now to address every component, and your planter will reward you with consistent performance when it matters most.

Quality Farm Supply stocks the maintenance parts, lubricants, and tools you need to get your planter field-ready. Don't wait until the last minute—prep now and plant with confidence.