Quis Sum's Guide To Fashionable Living

Vale Quis Sum!

2008-02-11T16:41:00.000+00:00

Quis Sum has decided to hang up her hat!

I have decided to give up my blog, Quis Sum's Guide To Fashionable Living, in order to focus on other projects. I would like to thank you very much for your support and for reading my blog for all this time.

All the best,

Quis Sum

Valentino In Ten Interesting Facts

2008-02-06T10:35:00.003+00:00

The legendary Italian fashion designer Valentino retired this year after a career spanning more than four decades. To mark this fashion landmark, here are ten interesting facts that you may, or may not, know about the designer.

1. Valentino moved from his native Italy to Paris at the age of 17 to train in the art of couture.

2. After training, he worked for many of the major Parisian fashion houses of the day; Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Jean Desses and Guy Laroche.

3. After his sojourn in Paris, Valentino returned to Italy in 1959 and set up in Rome.

4. Soon after his return to Rome, Valentino met the man who would become his longterm business partner: Giancarlo Giammetti. Giammetti would prove fundamental to the success of the Valentino fashion house through his shrewd business acumen and by allowing Valentino himself to focus solely on the creative side of the enterprise.

5. Valentino's first Italian show was actually in Florence. At that time, Florence was the centre of the Italian fashion industry, thanks to a long history in the production of expensive silks and the location of some of the top Italian fashion houses of the time in the city. It was Valentino, and really Valentino alone, who in successive years was able to show successfully in his adopted hometown of Rome due to his international renown and following. His Florentine show marked the beginning of his success.

6. Valentino marked 45 years in the fashion industry in 2007 with a series of lavish celebrations in Rome from 6th-8th July. These celebrations included a major retrospective of his work in the Ara Pacis museum in Rome. This exhibition then continued until the end of October 2007.

7. One of Valentino's most famous clients, although he has had many of these, was Jackie Kennedy. She was a regular client from 1964 and Valentino designed her wedding dress for her marriage to Aristotle Onassis.

8. Valentino was the first major Italian designer to show regularly at the Paris Haute Couture shows, something he did for the last time on 23rd January 2008. Many of his dresses through the years have been in his trademark red - rosso Valentino.

9. An equity fund, Permira, took control of the Valentino Fashion Group in 2007. Previously, it was owned by Marzotto Apparel and, before that, by HdP. It remains one of the few fashion houses not owned by one of the major three fashion groups; LVMH, the Gucci Group and PPR.

10. Valentino was awarded the distinguished French decoration, the Legion d'Honneur in July 2006. This award was followed this year by the Grand Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris for his services to Parisian fashion. He had already been awarded the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award in 2000.

Apologies From Quis Sum

2008-02-01T12:39:00.000+00:00

Here at Quis Sum's Guide To Fashionable Living we have been having some server issues. This has prevented us from posting on Valentino as advertised. We would like to apologise for this and we hope that you will check back next week for the post on Valentino and all the latest news from New York Fashion Week.

Quis Sum

Feed The World, One Bag At A Time

2008-01-30T09:49:00.000+00:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
These days, we should all really be thinking of going plastic bag free, or at least, reducing our consumption of plastic bags. One great way to do this is to have one or more fabric bags to hand when you go shopping.

If you are looking for such a bag, there can be no better choice that the FEED 1 bag. This bag is an initiative of the UN World Food Program. In addition to being environmentally aware by lowering a user's consumption of plastic bags, each purchase of a FEED 1 bag has the added benefit of giving $20 directly to the World Food Program to feed one hungry child in an underdeveloped nation for the entire school year. Often, it is the lack of enough money to feed the child whilst at school which prevents a child attending school. However, the UN World Food Program states that,

"When boys and girls are given a free, nutritious meal in school, research has shown that attendance increases by 100% and performance improves greatly."

For many children, the meal provided at school is the only meal they have every day. It is therefore of vital importance.

The FEED 1 bag is reversible, with a burlap outer printed to resemble a bag which contains feed. The "inside" is white cotton and has the same print. There are three handy pockets on the white side, one in the back and two in the sides. These side pockets are ideal for bottles of water, sunglasses etc.

Availability of the bags varies worldwide. FEED 1 bags are available at Harrods in the UK and online through Amazon. For more information, please see the Program website:
http://www.FEEDprojects.org
http://www.amazon.com/feed

Spring/Summer '08 Haute Couture Report

2008-01-25T10:16:00.001+00:00

At the Spring/Summer '08 Haute Couture shows in Paris, we were once again treated to a series of shows which perfectly married those two fundamental elements of couture: sublime creativity and impeccable execution. Here is our "in a nutshell" guide to the shows:

Anne Valerie Hash - daring, mostly sheer fabrics used to great effect through layering, brightened by well chosen surface embellishments.
Armani Privé - another tailoring masterclass: this time exploring figure hugging and feminine themes whilst retaining a classically chic aesthetic. Flawless drape, perfect embellishment, magnificent use of fabric.
Chanel - fittingly for a collection shown around a giant, sculpted classic Chanel jacket, this collection was an homage to that mainstay of the Chanel brand. Many variations on the classic, in terms of length and cut, in a more muted palette, along with a whimsical approach to eveningwear.
Christian Dior - an imagination unlike any other. Exaggerated 60s silhouettes, acid bright colours and animalesque fabrics, glorious embellishment. Perhaps too much at first glance, becomes divine as always on a second.
Christian Lacroix - bold colours and patterns, along with bold mixes of patterns. Impeccable tailoring mixed with expert drape. Lacroix will never be to everyone's taste, although he is to mine, but the skill and execution is undeniable.
Jean Paul Gaultier - under the sea inspiration evident throughout: coral and seaweed prints, wet-look fabrics, giant sequins like scales, seaweed-esque fringing. Yet, in many respects, very wearable.
Givenchy - impeccable tailoring, harnessing flared skirts and nipped waists, along with longer-line jackets and drainpipe trousers.
Elie Saab - eveningwear from the eveningwear specialist. Sparkle and drape in a variety of light colours.
Valentino - Valentino's last couture collection before retirement was a fitting celebration of all that has made his long career so successful and that has made him peerless as a master of drape. Check back next week for our special on Valentino.
Versace - Versace did not produce a runway show but instead presented a capsule by appointment. A particularly impressive selection of red-carpet worthy eveningwear in magnificent colours with a rather wonderful use of cut.

Coming Up On Quis Sum

2008-01-22T10:32:00.000+00:00

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This week sees the Spring/Summer 2008 Haute Couture shows in Paris. Check back later this week for all the news and reviews.

Five Rules For Vintage And Second Hand Shopping

2008-01-22T09:44:00.000+00:00

Vintage has been a huge trend in fashion for a while now, and shows no signs of abating, for good reason. Today’s mass-market, quick turnover, high street fashion industry is creating a vast homogenisation of that sector of the market which is beginning to bleed into some sectors of the designer market. There are few alternatives, therefore, for those who want to be more individual in their dress. You can spend thousands on those designers whose work remains more distinctive, you can customise your own clothes, or you can go vintage.
Another great resource is the charity shop. There has always been a certain unnecessary stigma attached to shopping in a charity shop, although this has grown less in recent years, with the advent of ethical and ecological awareness in shopping. Buying from charity shops is just another good way of recycling. If you look at charity shops in certain areas, you have a good chance of finding excellent, high quality items, often never even worn.

However, if you are going to take a foray into the second hand market, there are five key rules which you must remember:

1. would you buy the item if it was new? This is a key question to ask yourself. There is just as little point buying second hand something which you are never going to wear as there is buying it full price. The only exception to this rule is if something is so cheap i.e. up to £10, that it really doesn’t matter.
2. pay attention to the quality of the object. Inspect seams, collars and underarms in particular. Take note of any pilling on knitwear. See if the price has been adjusted accordingly. If it hasn’t, then leave the item.
3. look out for accessories. Charity and second-hand shops can be a particularly good resource for belts, bags, scarves and jewellery. These items can brighten up or completely change an outfit.
4. don’t go into one of these stores looking for a specific item. Rather, let yourself be open to whatever there is. Regular trips are also recommended, because stock can change very quickly and is always varied.
5. try before you buy, especially with clothing and footwear. You cannot return items to second-hand stores and get your money back.

Remember, if you need to make way in your wardrobe for your purchases, you can donate your old clothes too!

Fashion Forecast

2008-01-17T11:04:00.000+00:00

For Quis Sum, fashion is not about trends per se, it is about taking what is out there and injecting this with your own spirit. However, it pays to know what is out there to pick and mix from.
Key ideas for the upcoming season are:
1. Future florals - Balenciaga's lavish florals, some culled from the archives, exaggerated and mixed with sculpted silhouettes are the epitome of this, but abstract florals could also be found on many other runways
2. Fifties' silhouettes - ample skirts and nipped in waists
3. Electric brights - colours from all over the spectrum, but the brighter, the better
4. "Tribal" prints - the influence of traditional American, African and Asian prints

Advance Warning...Allumer's "Flicker of Light"

2008-01-10T12:12:00.000+00:00

Photograph courtesy of Kabiri.
Ok, so it's Valentine's Day coming up. Usually, I try to avoid this vastly overrated holiday on Quis Sum. However, what to buy as a Valentine's gift is often a topic I get asked about.

Jewellery is a really good, classic gift idea for Valentine's Day. However, that doesn't mean that the jewellery itself has to be classic. There are some fantastic, quirky ranges out there that will ensure that your loved one receives a more unusual gift. One such range is Allumer. This London based range, already known for its whimsical but chic friendship-style bracelets, has just come out with a new line, "Flicker of Light". Perfect for Valentine's Day, there are three potential styles: 'XXX', 'ROCK' and 'LOL'. The meaning of these phrases is ambiguous and can, therefore, be personal to you as a couple or as an individual. The small gold or silver disk charm needs to be flicked to reveal the message. This line of bracelets features a delicate coloured ball chain.

Needless to say, this line, and indeed the whole range, could be just as useful for birthday presents, or just as a gift to yourself.
Available online at http://www.kabiri.co.uk

Quis Sum On FACEBOOK!

2008-01-07T13:39:00.000+00:00

Quis Sum has got a brand new page on Facebook. If you are one of our readers and you have a Facebook account, please login and visit:

www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=8521416262

Check it out and become a fan!
If you don't have an account, this is another good reason to get one...

Beauty Blast - Cornelia Skincare

2008-01-03T09:32:00.000+00:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
The Cornelia spa in New York has long been a well-loved institution in that city, known for the effectiveness of its treatments. In recent years, a range of products has also been formulated, meaning the benefits of Cornelia's expertise can be enjoyed at home too.
The product range is divided into three lines: Cornelia Signature, Cornelia Essentials and Cornelia Works.
Cornelia Signature products are for the body and hair, whilst Cornelia Essentials are designed to help delay the aging process and Cornelia Works target problem skin types.
Each line is packed with natural ingredients and all products are gentle on the skin, yet effective. The range of products is so wide that you are sure to find something to suit your skin type. For my skin, I find the Botanical Balancing Cleanser and the Sensitive Skin Calming Complex moisturizer (Cornelia Essentials) particularly effective. Both these products leave my sking feeling soft and the moisturizer is absorbed almost instantly.
The products are mid-range price wise but are worth it due to their effectiveness and the fact that you don't need to use very much at each application.
See www.cornelia.com for details. You can buy online. Also available at Selfridges in the UK.

Happy New Year From Quis Sum!

2008-01-02T20:19:00.000+00:00

I would like to wish all my readers a "Happy New Year".

Keep checking back because, despite a short hiatus, Quis Sum has returned with a vengeance. There will soon be new posts on beauty products, trend reports and much more!

Thanks.

Quis Sum.

Lady Grey Jewellery

2007-10-17T10:18:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Kabiri.
Once the mark of an eccentric spirit, skulls have proliferated recently: they are on jewellery, clothes, scarves, shoes, everything really. Which is shame, because I love a good, old fashioned memento mori. However, if you want to stand out from the crowd a bit, and, if you love eccentric, just this side of gothic, jewellery you might want to consider the new range Lady Grey.

Lady Grey is based in Brooklyn but is available in various locations including Kabiri in the UK and through the Kabiri online store. The jewellery is unusual, using unconventional motifs or conventional motifs in unusual ways. The aesthetic is somewhat stark, but, to my mind, effective. Some pieces have to be looked at a couple of times to work out exactly what they are. Unusual techniques and materials are also used, such as oxidized silver. All this adds up to a line which is definitely worth considering if you like the more unconventional, less widely available things in life.
See www.kabiri.co.uk and www.myspace.com/milkmade for more.

Just Another Man - ic Monday: The Secret Of Stylish Dressing

2007-10-08T10:37:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Burton.
I'm going to let you in to a little secret. Dressing stylishly is not that hard. You just need to follow three little rules:

1. be true to yourself
2. be comfortable in what you are wearing (this doesn't mean tracksuits at all times, it means don't wear something you feel like an idiot in)
3. if you don't have a huge budget, buy cheaper clothes and more expensive accessories (except suits, buy the best suit you can afford)

Luckily, just like with womenswear, the menswear market is rapidly expanding. This means that there are better, cheaper ranges out there. One good example is the recently launched Burton Black Label, a capsule of collection of 35 key pieces in neutral colors. This means that items can be mixed and matched, both with other items in this collection and clothes you already own. The collection is very competitively priced. I would suggest, however, in order to prevent too much uniformity, that you put your own spin on items: a bright belt, interesting shoes, something which shows your personality.

www.burton.co.uk for details

Name To Watch....Alexandra Vidal

2007-10-08T09:58:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Alexandra Vidal.
A contestant on the first series of Project Runway, Alexandra Vidal now has a burgeoning, eponymous fashion line. At the moment, it is only available in New York and Miami. However, we are predicting that her company is going to grow and grow and we suggest you keep your eye open for her name in the future.

The current collection, inspired by the macaroons and gateaux of famed Parisian patisserie Laduree, is a wonderful selection of delicate yet striking cocktail and evening looks. The palate is muted, with an emphasis on exceptional surface detail. It is no wonder than Vidal's designs are starting to be seen on some of New York's top social figures. Vidal also provides a custom ordering service.
See http://www.alexandravidal.com for more details.

Modern Classic - Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

2007-10-03T13:04:00.000+01:00

Launched with much fanfare in 2005, this discreet Hermes scent is both modern and timeless. I have a personal dislike of overly floral or musky scents, which makes this an absolute winner for me. Un Jardin Sur Le Nil is a clean, citrus-sy scent with base notes of sycamore and frankincense and top notes of grapefruit and green mango. The scent was created by Hermes' legendary "nose", Jean-Claude Ellena and immediately transports the wearer on a journey to the Nile. Another winning feature of this perfume is its elegant bottle - tall, stately, tinged with subtle gradations of green. The perfume is designed to be unisex but, unlike the majority of unisex perfumes, it does not feel too heavy for a woman to wear. It remains a modern classic amidst an increasingly crowded perfume field. One reason for this is that Hermes perfumes are characterized by their use of the best possible ingredients, resulting in a more natural smell.

Beauty Blast - Nails Inc Treatment Pack 4

2007-10-02T14:00:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Nails Inc.
In my experience, manicures in London can be fair to middling, for the most part. This is most strongly illustrated when one goes to New York and gets a magnificent, long-lasting manicure complete with complimentary shoulder massage for about $10 (that is £5, give or take). No wonder New York women have a reputation for being more groomed. Often in London, a manicure can leave you wondering why you bothered spending all the money - especially when it starts to chip the very next day. An exception is Nails Inc. These nail bars offer great service and good value for money. One manicure lasted a record seven days and this period included a trip abroad with its associated lifting of suitcases (usually such a guaranteed nail chipper that I don't even bother with a manicure). Nails Inc also offer a wonderful range of take home products for keeping your nails looking great all the time. My favorite pack is "treatment pack 4" which contains all the bits and bobs needed to help hard to grow nails: lotus oil slick pen, nail buffer, strengthening treatment, top coat and express remover wipe. The pack is well designed, practical and produces real results.
See http://www.nailsinc.com for more details on products and locations.

Just Another Man - ic Monday: Tretorn Hockeyboot Paninari

2007-10-01T14:24:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Tretorn.
Welcome to the inaugural edition of "Just Another Man - ic Monday". From now on, Monday posts will be dedicated to the world of men's fashion and accessories. Some of my male readers have been pestering me to do this for a while. So, enjoy, and excuse the pun!

Tretorn Hockeyboot Paninari
I would like to bring your attention to a stylish alternative to Converse high-tops. Not that I am saying there is anything wrong with Converse, quite the contrary. However, there is nothing wrong with a little variety.
Tretorn, a little known Swedish company, is slowly building a well-deserved following further afield. Whilst Tretorn also produces apparel, its sneaker line is especially successful. I am told that they are extremely comfortable. This model, the "Hockeyboot Paninari" is new for this season and features a padded, quilted-look upper which is a reference to the "Paninari" movement (apparently) which inspired the boot.
The boot is available in several colors and with either leather or polyester upper. Depending on how brave you are, you can pick anything from utilitarian black to bold orange. These sneakers are distinguished from the rest of the field by their discreet yet quirky design features married to innate practicality.
Tretorn also stock apparel, womens footwear and accessories.
http://www.tretorn.com
Stockists worldwide.

Milan Fashion Week Special - Profile Of Gucci Designer Frida Giannini

2007-09-28T12:08:00.000+01:00

Photograph courtesy of Gucci.
Gucci's spring/summer 08 show at Milan Fashion week was a mix of tempered femininity, elegance and wearability. Nonetheless, the show has managed to split the critics. Gucci's vision is driven by Frida Giannini, creative director for the label. Giannini made her first steps in high fashion at Fendi where she worked both in ready-to-wear and then in leather accessories. She continued to work with accessories, in particular handbags, when she transferred to Gucci in 2002 as "Handbag Design Director". Successively more high-profile roles have been added: creative director of accessories, creative director of women's ready to wear and then, finally, in 2006, she was named sole creative director of the label.

During her tenure in accessories at Gucci, Giannini was responsible for the reissue and reinterpretation of several of the label's key historical designs. "Flora" the delicate floral pattern favored by Grace Kelly, amongst others, proved popular all over again and was used on bags, scarves and shoes. The other historical designs and their modern counterparts have made Gucci a driving force in the accessories market. Of course, Giannini has built on the earlier success of the legendary Tom Ford, who can be held largely responsible for the reinvigoration of Gucci in the 90s (along with Domenico de Sole, former CEO). Indeed, Ford's shoes have been large ones to fill. His vision for "Gucci" woman was so definite and well-thought out: a vision of overt sexuality. The slinky white dress with the cut out hip embellished by a curvaceous gold buckle was an iconic fashion moment, as was Ford's sexy, for-women interpretation of male eveningwear (tailored, body-hugging pants, with a vibrant, but not crass, satin shirt tucked in).

Nonetheless, Giannini seems to have her own vision of the Gucci woman and it is proving to be successful, both aesthetically and commercially. She designs with the modern woman clearly in mind: sexy yes, but in a more restrained way; feminine, but not saccharine; wearable, but chic. Following on from the impressive, lush, noir-inspired fall/winter range which is currently in stores, the new spring/summer range is a celebration of this "Gucci woman". Working with a mainly monochrome palette (a bold idea for spring/summer), enlivened by splashes of egg-yolk yellow and blush pink, Giannini produced a neat collection of easy-to-wear elegance.

Some critics did not give this collection quite such a warm reception, criticizing a lack of "coherence". Admittedly, some of the checked pieces were perhaps weaker than the rest of the collection. However, no-one is likely to buy every single piece from the runway and then wear each item in exactly the same way as was done on the runway. Nonetheless, pieces would work well mixed and matched with other brands and with other Gucci pieces. The jackets on display were particularly strong: either loose and unstructured or tiny and fitted. Short evening dresses were elegant and whimsical at the same time. Giannini's designs are for the modern woman who knows her own mind.

Information Is Power

2007-09-26T15:03:00.000+01:00

Image courtesy of the Helen Bamber Foundation.
Here at Quis Sum? we believe that the best thing is to be as informed as possible about the world around us. Sadly, there are lots of dirty little secrets which are being swept under the collective carpet. We would like to direct our readers to the current campaign to raise awareness about the subject of sex trafficking. There is currently a large art installation in London's Trafalgar Square which seeks to raise awareness of some of the many issues surrounding this complex, little-discussed topic. The work takes the form of seven large shipping containers which chart the stages in one individual's journey from their homeland into sex slavery.
The installation is backed by the Helen Bamber foundation.
Please see http://www.helenbamber.org for more details. A petition can also be signed.

Spotlight on.....Dover Street Market.

2007-09-25T17:10:00.001+01:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Dover Street Market is a neat, multi-level boutique on Dover Street in London. It is favoured by fashion insiders due to its range of highly-sought after but hard-to-find designers, for example L'Wren Scott, Charles Anastase and, of course, Comme des Garcons (the store was the brainchild of the founder of that firm). Accessories, especially those by Pierre Hardy, are especially sought after. In addition to clothes, shoes and bags, there is jewellery, a vintage section, watches, perfumes, collectibles and much, much more. I could recommend specific items, but Dover Street Market is such an Aladdin's Cave, stocked with items to suit all tastes, that it is far better for you to explore it for yourself. Men's and women's ranges are equally well represented. There is a wonderful cafe, Rose Bakery, on the top floor. Dover Street Market also has an e-shop selling limited edition items and originals.
Dover Street Market 17-18 Dover Street, London, W1S 4LT. http://www.doverstreetmarket.com

Spotlight on.....Brocca.

2007-09-23T09:33:00.000+01:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Brocca is a wonderful jewel of a shop, to be found on the main shopping street in Venice, Italy. It is a small, yet incredibly well-stocked knitwear shop, which nearly groans with floor to ceiling shelving and has a huge amount of choice. It stocks both mens and womenswear, particularly jumpers, cardigans and scarves. Well-known ranges such as Missoni are present, as are other equally stunning but more unusual (and certainly cheaper) Italian ranges. The staff are very helpful and speak English if required. A "must" if you are ever in Venice.
Brocca
Mercerie San Marco 4858
Tel. 041 522 6605.

Quick Tip.....Fresh Sugar Lip Gloss

2007-09-23T09:28:00.000+01:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
This is a new addition to Fresh's make-up range, and it is a very welcome one at that. I am not usually a fan of lip gloss: I find it sticky and nasty. However, this example from Fresh has totally changed my mind and I am completely converted. It does not have the usual texture of a lip gloss. Indeed, based on Fresh's best-selling Sugar Lip Balm, it is more like a tinted lip balm than anything else. Lips are left feeling nourished and soothed. The gloss comes in 10 different colors, from the subtle to the bold. "Sugar Fairy" is great from imparting a natural, healthy color and shine.
http://www.fresh.com

Great New Bags For Fall - Tods' Pashmy Range

2007-09-23T09:19:00.000+01:00

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Sometimes a bag needs to be practical as well as stylish, especially if it is expensive. However, this is often like trying find the Holy Grail. This season, however, Tods have produced just such a range of bags which ticks both these boxes: the Pashmy range. The bags are made from "technical fabric", not leather and trimmed with patent edging and eye-catching, yet chic, gold hardware. The fabric is water-resistant (something which was well tested on a recent vaporetto ride in Venice) making the bags an excellent option for fall to winter. There are several different styles in the range, and several different colours. However, somewhat arbitrarily, all Tods stores don't stock all models. All models have comfortable carrying handles, good-sized external pockets and are lightweight. An excellent addition to any wardrobe.
http://www.tods.com

Name To Watch From New York.....Jeremy Laing

2007-09-10T12:04:00.000+01:00

It is always interesting to try to pick the next success story from amidst the up-and-coming designers at the shows. Jeremy Laing may very well prove to be the "next big thing" emanating from the NY shows. The Canadian designer announced himself at his third NY showing with a subtle collection featuring fluid drape, exquisite tailoring and magnificent surface effects. He is sure to find a market amongst women who like fashion to be simple and subtle, yet unusual and fresh.
Photographs courtesy of style.com.