Rabbit Care Guide

Netherland Dwarf Rabbit - Feeding and Housing

2013-10-14T16:31:00.000+07:00

The Netherland Dwarf is the smallest of the 45 breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, weighing in at a mere 2 lbs when fully grown.

Feeding

The digestive system of a Netherland Dwarf is sensitive, even by bunny standards. A constant supply of fresh water is a must; rabbits cannot absorb water from their food. A gravity water bottle attached to the inside of their cage will prevent spills and contamination. Also, a constant supply of timothy hay provides a great source of fiber and allows for all day nibbling. Alfalfa could be used but is higher in calcium and protein and lower in fiber. Too much calcium can lead to serious kidney and bladder problems. About 250 mg a day is sufficient for a mature Netherland Dwarf.

Rabbit chow should be limited to about 1 ounce per pound in weight daily, unless you have a pregnant or nursing doe, or a baby less than four months old, in which case a constant supply should be provided. Only buy a month's supply of chow at a time as the pellets can spoil or mold, causing illness. They can also lose nutrients important to your rabbit's physical well-being. Pet rabbits do well with a pellet that is 18-20% fiber, 14-15% protein and 2-3% fat. Once you find a good brand, stick with it. Frequently changing their food can cause dangerous digestive problems.

For rabbits over six months in age, you can supplement their basic diet with raw fruits and vegetables in quantities of about a teaspoon at a time. Introduce new foods over a couple of weeks to give their systems time to adapt. Kitchen scraps work great here, but foods close to spoiling are better for the compost pile than your bunny's belly.

Good choices are apples, grapes, pears, oranges, strawberries, cherries, raspberries, blueberries, papayas, pineapples, melons, mangoes, peaches, tomatoes, peas, beans, kale, carrot tops, mustard greens, dandelion greens, sugar beets, parsnips, parsley and potato peelings. Take care to remove any seeds or pits first.

Never feed your bunny lettuce. Lettuce contains lactucarium, which can cause severe diarrhea. Diarrhea can kill a rabbit. Romaine lettuce has the lowest amounts of lactucarium of the common garden varieties. Other foods to avoid include cabbage, parsnips and tomato leaves.

Housing

While every rabbit has its own unique personality, they and their owners can enjoy hours of interaction through play and physical contact. If you decide a Netherland Dwarf is the bunny for you, preparing a suitable habitat will be the first step in its overall care.

The Netherland Dwarf is the smallest of the 45 breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, weighing in at a mere 2 lbs when fully grown. But they are hardy little fellows and do quite well housed inside or out, even in winter.

A Dwarf cage needs to be at least three square feet, but bigger is better. Creating multiple levels connected with ramps is an easy way to increase the overall size of an enclosure without sacrificing floor space.

Outdoor housing must provide protection from the wet and cold of winter and heat of summer. A hutch made of heavy wood with wire sides and a waterproof roof, raised off the ground, is ideal. Even though your rabbit will be safe inside its hutch, it can still be scared to death by a menacing predator. Include an enclosed area inside the hutch to give your bunny a place to hide when scared, or just to get out of the weather. Bedding material should be provided in the form of wood shavings and/or clean straw. Indoor housing needn't be as utilitarian, but must still provide a safe, secure and comfortable home for your pet.

Traditionally, wire-bottomed enclosures have been used to allow droppings to fall into a tray for easier cleaning. Wire cages can be hard on bunny feet, however, and a solid area should be provided for comfortable resting. Alternatively, rabbits can be litter-box trained. Never use clumping cat litter or cedar chips, both of which can be harmful if ingested. Food, hay and water containers should be cage mounted to avoid spilling and contamination.

Regardless of how luxurious the accommodations, however, your bunny will still need room to romp and roam outside of its cage. Care must be taken to ensure your rabbit's safety anywhere you allow it to run. Inside spaces must be bunny-proofed. Outdoor spaces must be properly enclosed.

For more information visit: The American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club: www.andrc.com/

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Do Dwarf Rabbit Breeds Need Special Care?

2013-10-14T16:26:00.004+07:00

When it comes to breeds of rabbits there is a huge choice from the adorable Mini Lops to the massive Flemish Giants. But more and more people are choosing to open their hearts and homes to a dwarf rabbit. In fact the Netherland Dwarf is one of, if not the, most popular breed worldwide today.

Many people refer to their small rabbits as dwarfs and you will often find people saying they have a 'Dwarf Lop' or 'Dwarf Lionhead'. However, to be an official 'dwarf' breed a rabbit must carry one half of the dwarf gene. The American Rabbit Breeders Association recognizes just two true dwarf breeds - the Dwarf Hotot (around 3lb) and the Netherland Dwarf (around 2.5lb).

But regardless of whether your bun is an official dwarf or just a very small version of another breed the question is always asked if caring for a dwarf bun is any different than for other breeds.

So, do dwarf rabbit breeds need special care?

The answer to this is not really. There are a couple of things you need to keep in mind with dwarf breeds but in general their care is the same as other rabbits.

Here are a few things you need to watch out for:

Dwarf rabbits can often be more highly strung and harder to handle than larger breeds. And, while there are always exceptions to the rule, in general they actually need *more* space and exercise than a larger rabbit does as.
Because of their obviously small size, dwarf rabbits look very much like prey to cats and dogs, particularly to dogs such as terriers that are bred to hunt and kill rats, mice and even rabbits. You may be best to consider choosing a larger rabbit if you have a dog or cat in the house.
While it's not a proven scientific fact, many dwarf owners feel their dwarf bunnies have a more delicate digestive system. While that may or may not be the case with your dwarf bun, you still need to be very careful about the quantity of food you feed your bunny. Dwarfs are tiny creatures (2-3lbs) and can become overweight very quickly. A portion of 'treat' food e.g.: apple for a dwarf bun would be around a teaspoon!
If your cage has wire at the bottom, take care to ensure that your dwarf bun's feet are not so small that they can slip through the wire. Change the wire to a smaller size hole or put something solid over it instead such as newspaper or cardboard. As with any rabbit, wire-bottomed cages need part of the floor to be covered with solid material so that the bun can give their feet a rest.
Netherland Dwarfs are much more prone to dental problems because of their small, compact head shape and shortened jaw. This may mean a visit to the vet each month to have your bun's teeth trimmed which could become costly.

There is no doubt that dwarf rabbits and in particular the Netherland Dwarf, are very cute. However, as with any rabbit, they are not a low maintenance pet and it is 10-12 year commitment to take one on.

Make sure you're really ready to add a dwarf bun to your household before you fall in love with that cute little face and take him home.

Abbey Mitchell is a long-time animal lover and rabbit enthusiast. Looking for more information on breeds of rabbits? Visit RabbitsForPets.com for pet rabbit care information you won't find elsewhere online.
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Netherland Dwarf Rabbit - 4 Reasons Why it is the Favorite Pet Rabbit Breed

2013-10-14T16:24:00.005+07:00

The Netherland dwarf rabbit is probably the most popular rabbit breed when choosing a pet rabbit.There are a few reasons why people prefer them among other breeds.But like any others, they need good care to enjoy a healthy,happy lives.

* The Size

The Netherland dwarf rabbit is the smallest breed of rabbits.Their weight do not exceed 2 to 3 pounds.So of course they can have a smaller cage than the larger breeds.But they need just as much space to run and exercise on a daily basis.

* The Variety

Dwarf rabbits comes in 36 different colors.Breeders have been able to mix them so much than almost any color is available in this breed.That give them great popularity in the rabbit show industry.A lot of choices are available to people who wants to get a pet rabbit.

* Easy To Care For

Because they are smaller, they need less cleaning and less food than the larger breeds.Their diet should consist essentially in Timothy hay, Timothy hay based pellets,and a small daily portion of fresh green vegetables.Fruits should be given in moderation for their high sugar content.

* Great Personality

The Netherland dwarf rabbit has a playful,gentle and inquisitive personality.He may display some territorial and aggressive behavior if not spayed or neutered. It is important for the health of all rabbits to have them fixed by the age of 5 to 6 months old.First for health reasons, your rabbit will live a lot longer if altered and for social and behavior reasons.

Hope this little bit of information about the Netherland dwarf rabbit was helpful.To learn more about pet rabbits, go ahead and visit my blog at http://www.petrabbitcare.blogspot.com for a lot of free tips, great videos and enjoy learning about your new of future pet rabbit!

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Netherland Dwarf Rabbits - Understanding Your Little Friend

2013-10-14T16:21:00.005+07:00

Netherland dwarf rabbits have become by far the most popular breed of the pet rabbit world. Their size smaller than other rabbits is attracting to people who want a house pet. Understanding their personality is crucial to enjoying them as your new friend. Netherland dwarf rabbits do come from the Netherlands.They are basically the result of a breed of polish rabbit and wild rabbit. They have become very popular among breeders for their small size and their great variety of colors. They have a more shy,nervous and independent temper than bigger rabbits in general. So they may not be the ideal pet for young children who may squeeze them to hard or even step on them.

Once they reach mating age, some may display territorial and aggressive behavior. It is good advice to have your pet spayed or neutered if you want to keep him for a long time.Fixed rabbits will also live a much longer, happier life and will be so much easier to be litter trained successfully.

Netherland dwarf rabbits can be litter trained just like any other rabbits. It is absolutely out of question to live them outside in any season. They are very vulnerable to weather variations. Temperatures above 80F can be fatal for your rabbits, and anything below 50F can make them sick very quickly. They make absolutely lovely pets once they are altered and their lifespan can go up to ten years. Like any rabbit, they would be much happier in pairs and their small size makes it easier for pet owners to have two in the same cage.

But like any rabbit they should not be kept in cages, except at night. They need to have at least two to three hours of freedom per day to really exercise.Lack of freedom will eventually result in aggressive behavior, excessive chewing and health problems. If you decide to get a pair of Netherland dwarf rabbits, you will enjoy their curious,friendly and playful personality. It is also important to find a veterinarian who is specialised in exotic animals, not just dogs and cats.

I hope you appreciated this little bit of information about Netherland dwarf rabbits. Do you know what the best toys are for your little friend? Feel free to visit my blog at http://www.petrabbitcare.blogspot.com for a lot more free tips and great videos.Enjoy learning about your pet rabbit!

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Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Care - Breeding and Play Places

2013-10-14T16:20:00.004+07:00

Breeding

The Netherland Dwarf is the smallest of the 45 breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), weighing an average of 2 lbs when fully grown. Their tiny size makes them a popular pet breed, but also poses some unique breeding challenges. If you decide to breed Netherland Dwarfs, do your homework first; read books, talk to other breeders, attend a rabbit show. Very few breeders make a living breeding rabbits. Most do it out of love.

Small-breed rabbits can reach sexual maturity as early as three months, but do not breed them before six months of age. Dwarf litters produce only two to three kits at a time, compared to the six to twelve kits of larger breeds. Genetically, when two true dwarfs are bred, 50% of their offspring will also be true dwarfs, 25% will be "false dwarfs," which will grow to be proportionately larger, longer and heavier than their true dwarf parents, and 25% will be "peanuts." Sadly, none of these latter offspring live past three weeks of age. Many breeders euthanize peanuts, which are easily distinguished by their severely pinched hind quarters and bulbous heads, at birth.

If you are breeding rabbits to show, take time to understand color genetics. The ARBA recognizes 24 distinct color varieties for the Netherland Dwarf; more than any other breed. Also, only breed those rabbits which most closely adhere to the ARBA standards for Netherland Dwarfs. Never breed rabbits which have shown aggressive behavior. When first introduced, Netherland Dwarfs tended to be wild and skittish. Careful breeding has removed these tendencies. Today, a well-bred Dwarf is both gentle and docile, making an excellent pet for anyone who has learned to handle and care for them properly.

You won't be able to show a false dwarf doe, but she still possesses her parents' genes and is good for breeding with a true dwarf buck. The chances of false dwarf offspring are higher, but she can produce larger, stronger litters with no peanuts. Chose your does based on the same show characteristics looked for in true dwarfs.

Indoor Play Places

Regardless of how perfect you make your bunny's B&B, it will still need a safe place to romp and roam outside of its cage. The more space they are given, the more content they will be. For the safety of your bunny, and your belongings, however, indoor spaces must be carefully prepared before becoming rumpus rooms. Unless your rabbit has been properly trained, never allow it to roam unsupervised in your house.

Safety is always your first priority. Any potential dangers to your rabbit must either be secured or removed from the area. Primarily, this means electrical wires. Never rely on training alone to keep your rabbit from chewing wires, which could quickly kill a rabbit or cause severe burn. There are many products available from electronic and hardware stores for concealing or securing wires. Hiding wires under carpeting poses a fire hazard and should never be done.

Another danger is toxic house plants, such as dieffenbachia and philodendron. These should either be hung from the ceiling - don't assume they'll be out of reach on counter tops - or removed from the area. If hung from the ceiling, keep an eye out for fallen leaves. If you're not sure about a plant, remove it immediately and ask your veterinary doctor or other animal care specialist.

Bunnies are born nibblers. Spraying gently with a water bottle and firmly saying "NO" will help curb unwanted chewing, but you should also give your bunny suitable toys, such as sticks, magazines and cardboard tubes, to allow for this natural drive. To prevent nesting in couches and other low furnishings, a wooden frame, or other such obstruction, can be placed underneath to keep the space off limits. If all else fails, cardboard panels can be placed around the areas they can't seem to resist.

Make sure there's a litter-box and water bowl available if your rabbit can't return to its cage on its own. A heavy or weighted bowl will help prevent spilling.

Outdoor Play Places

Wild rabbits love to run, jump, chew and dig. Pet rabbits love to run, jump, chew and dig. Regardless of how perfect you make your bunny's B&B, it will still need a safe place to romp and roam outside of its cage. The more space they are given, the more content they will be. Outdoor play areas must provide protection from the elements, predators and other, less obvious dangers.

Safety is paramount. Even when out of the reach of predators, a rabbit can still be frightened to death, so never leave your rabbit out unattended, and never over night. Urban areas have their dangers, too, in the form of opossums, raccoons, dogs and even skunks.

A sturdy wooden frame with wire sides, top and bottom has all the makings of a good rabbit run. Be sure it is large enough for your bunny to play in. A wire bottom will keep your rabbit from burrowing out, but wire is hard on bunny feet, and should be covered with a layer of straw. This will also give your rabbit something to nest in and nibble on.

Providing a smaller, enclosed area in the run for your rabbit to rest and hide in will bring additional comfort. You'll also need a water bottle or bowl, a litter-box (never use clumping litter or cedar chips) and some bunny toys. Generally, what is safe in a baby's crib is safe in a bunny's cage. There are exceptions, however. When in doubt, ask your veterinary doctor or other animal care specialist. Clean the litter-box daily and change the straw weekly.

Despite being the smallest rabbit breed recognized by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association, the Netherland Dwarf is a hardy little creature and can enjoy their run year-round, except during extreme weather. Be sure to place the run well away from plants hazardous to rabbits, such as primrose, tulips and lily of the valley (if you're not certain about a specific plant, again, ask a specialist) and grass treated with pesticides and fertilizers.

For more information visit: The American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club: http://www.andrc.com

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To Bathe or Not to Bathe Your Rabbit - That Is the Question

2013-10-13T01:33:00.000+07:00

Did you know that if you bathe your rabbit, she could catch cold, become chilled and die in a matter of hours? Most people will tell you rabbits do not need to be bathed as they often groom themselves; however, there are those who bathe their rabbits regularly and have not had a problem yet. But from personal experience, I bathed my rabbit who suddenly started shivering uncontrollably, and two hours later, sadly I found her dead in her cage. To decide whether baths should be given to rabbits, the goal would be to make sure the rabbit stays as clean as possible so that numerous baths are not necessary, thus preventing the death of your rabbit.

A healthy diet that includes roughage is just one important way to prevent the need to give your rabbit numerous baths. Giving your bunny Timothy hay is good because it brings roughage to the body and prevents "messy bottom." Also, fruits and selected veggies are good for your rabbit. Some of these include clover, dandelion stems, collard greens, celery, basil, dill, mint, strawberries, raspberries, and bananas to name a few. If you want to give your rabbit a treat, just make sure it is either high fiber pellets with low protein or treats with low carbohydrates that limit sugar.

Prevention of dirt and waste buildup in the rabbit's environment will help keep the rabbit clean and bath free. The size of your home that you provide has a lot to do with keeping your bunny clean. To keep your bunny's paws clean while she's in the litter box, install a plastic grid. This will separate her from her waste and keep her clean. To make the litter box training easier, have your rabbit spayed or neutered so they will be able to focus on training. In case of an accident, when urine can soak into the sides of the cage, caulk around the edges and clean up urine quickly.

If it is absolutely necessary to bathe your rabbit, there are safe ways to do this without harming her. You can spot clean with animal wipes. Also, you can use a special dry powder cleaner to clean and deodorize your bunny. If your rabbit has "messy bottom," a partial bath can be done by placing just the rabbit's bottom in the bottom of the sink or tub with just enough water to cover her rump. That way, the rest of the body is not submerged in the water which could possibly create stress and speed up illness and death. Last but not least, bathe only with permission from your veterinarian who will recommend a special shampoo just for pets.

Even the most careful caretakers and pet owners can make a fatal mistake and cause the death of their pet rabbit. Where rabbits are concerned, it is best to play it safe and use non or partial bathing techniques to care for the rabbit. If absolutely necessary to give a full bath to your bunny, get permission from your vet first as they will be able to instruct you on the proper technique. Don't make the mistake I made. It can cost you your rabbit's life.

An absolute essential book that you should have in your library for reference is entitled Rabbit Care & Training Secrets. This book leaves no stone unturned when addressing many issues rabbits and rabbit owners have. Click on this link http://petrabbitcare.weebly.com/index.html for more information.

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Rabbit Hutch Plans - Things ALL Rabbit Hutches Should Have

2013-10-13T01:29:00.003+07:00

All pet rabbits need a place to call home. This allows them to rule their own territory - this is in their nature and make up to do so. But where should we keep them?

Indoor or Outdoor?

Before you decide to keep a rabbit as a pet, the first decision you will have to make is: whether or not you will keep it inside or outside. Some people nowadays choose to let their rabbits live indoors, but most people decide to keep their rabbit in an outdoor

rabbit hutch.

Outdoor Is Best:

Keeping your bunny outside is a great way to allow the rabbit to still live in an environment that is as natural as possible - yet still be a family pet. Our experience is that most rabbit hutches tend to lack the fundamental needs of a rabbit; and that it is better to build a custom outdoor rabbit hutch, than to purchase a pre-built hutch from a pet store.

Buying Pre-Built Hutches Verses Building Custom Hutches:

Pre-built hutches have common problems, they lack size, zoning, insulation, are difficult to clean, flimsy, and often have design flaws such as mesh wire on the floor. This is why we recommend building a custom hutch. Custom hutches also contain advantages such as the deliberate inclusion of solid walls, for those who live in areas where the temperature drops too low for the rabbits comfort. They allow the builder to add in their own personal and creative flare.

Learning how to build a on a budget would be wise, but the most important thing is to have the right rabbit hutch plans. As this will mean keeping your rabbit happy and healthy will be far easier.

This article focuses on the outdoor rabbit hutch and will give you 5 things ALL rabbit hutch plans should have.

Start with great how to build a rabbit hutch plans: You should know how to build the hutch correctly and efficiently. The common mistakes we hear about is when people just "jump in" and start without having proper rabbit hutch plans set out from the start. This can cause frustration down the track because materials and time are wasted when they have to undo or redo a particular section that was not well planned or made up "on the fly".

Size: You must take the size of your rabbit into consideration when building your rabbit hutch. Rabbits need plenty of room in which to be able to move and play, so make sure you are giving your rabbit adequate room around to move. The guide for a rabbit is that sizing is that it should be able to hop along 4 to 5 times without being impeded. By this I mean, it should be able to hop along 4 to 5 times without being forced to stop because of the wall and length of the hutch is too short. The length of the hutch is not the only issue. The height is also very important. And this is where the majority of rabbit hutches out there for sale fail to meet an adequate standard. The height should be twice (even better is 3 times) the size of the rabbit - when he/she is lying down and stretched out. Any hutch that is not sufficiently long, wide or high enough will restrict your bunny from being able to get enough exercise. One way to save space is to build a two-storey rabbit hutch.

Easy to Clean: OK, so here's one for the rabbit owner. The hutch should be built off the ground (the floor should be at least a foot up from the ground) and should be supported by four or more sturdy legs. Depending on the weight six legs may be required. Cover the floor of the hutch with material that will protect the flooring. Both these things will ensure the rabbit hutch is easy to clean. Remember when cleaning the hutch, rabbit pellets make great fertilizer for the plants in your garden!

Correct Finishing: Make sure that the hutch is free from sharp edges from nails or wood. Smooth down all rough patches on the wood with sandpaper. And any mesh wire should be inspected and file down any sharp burrs or metal splinters. As you have decided that your pet rabbit will be living outside instead of in the home with you, you should attempt to make sure the hutch is as comfortable and safe as possible for your rabbit.

Correct materials: The most appropriate Rabbit hutch plans include the correct materials. A wooden hutch is going to be the best bet, as it will be simple to build, sturdy, and easier to clean. Do not use chicken wire as rabbits can chew through it, and never, ever use the wire on the floor of the hutch, as rabbits can injure their paws on wire floors (paws can even become deformed this way). You can use thick, chew-proof wire to a wall and the doors, but make sure the openings in the wire, as well as throughout the hutch, are too small to let in predators (in particular snakes).

Rooms and Zones: You must take the year-round climate of the place you live into consideration when building your rabbit hutch. Outdoor hutches should have at least one room that is enclosed - with 4 walls and one door. Walls and should be designed so that they are sealed to protect your rabbit from weather and the elements. There also needs to be an open section where the rabbit can enjoy the warm sun and cool breeze. A hutch that is built with quality materials and weatherproofing in mind will protect your rabbit from the elements. However, be prepared to bring the rabbit indoors during extreme cold or hot temperatures, as these can kill your pet.

Conclusion: Please remember that you must know how to build a rabbit hutch properly. It is very important for the bunny to live in an environment that supports its health and well-being. If you follow these 8 things which all rabbit hutch plans should have - the result is that you will build a great rabbit hutch. Not only will it provide your pet with enough room to play and grow, but will also provide a safe home, and will keep him or her healthy for many years.

To learn how to build a rabbit hutch in less than 3 weeks click here to find out more information on DIY rabbit hutch plans

PLEASE NOTE: These rabbit hutch plans are designed to last 10 YEARS!

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Can You Give Your Rabbit Cilantro?

2013-10-13T01:27:00.000+07:00

Generally speaking, rabbits are low-maintenance pets. If you think taking care of your dog or your cat is easy enough, you will find it even easier to take care of a rabbit as a house pet. Just give them a stack of hay, a huge piece of lettuce leaf or pellets and your pet bunny should be fine. However, if you want to be strict in terms of your rabbit's daily diet regimen, it is best to have a mix of hay and green leafy vegetables so he or she has a variety to munch on. Like humans who love variety in the food they eat, rabbits also appreciate different mixes of hay and green leafy vegetables from time to time for their meals. If you have a small patch of herbs planted in your backyard, you can also include that in his diet. Herbs such as basil, dill, oregano, rosemary and the like are safe to include in his meal.

Can I Give My Rabbit Cilantro?

Yes.

Cilantro is a popular type of herb in Southwestern Asia, in Europe and also in North Africa. Cilantro is also called by other names like Chinese parsley and coriander. Cilantro is a popular herb used in making pesto, tikka masala recipes, salsas, soups, chutneys, salads and as extra flavorings for lamb, pork and Mexican dishes. A lot of people say that cilantro tastes unpleasantly and similarly like soap, but the experience definitely changes once you get used to it.

Feeding your rabbit should not be an issue as herbs are just like any green leafy vegetable that you feed your pet rabbit with. Herbs have high cellulose and high fiber which are great for a rabbit's digestive system.

However, not all herbs can be fed as the general bulk of a rabbit's diet. At the end of the day, a stack of hay and fresh and clean water should still form the main part of your pet rabbit's diet. Not all rabbits can appreciate herbs given herbs' powerful scent and taste. Just as we humans are not immediately attuned to having herbs finely chopped on our soup, your pet rabbit will not necessarily eat cilantros even if it is a green leafy vegetable. That said, it is best to give cilantro from time to time and not have it replace hay or any green leafy vegetable that your pet rabbit already learned to eat. Like treats, give cilantro sparingly in small portions and should not be treated as a meal substitute but rather just supplements.

Along with cilantro, basil, dill, peppermint, rosemary, sage and thyme are other kinds of herbs that you can feed your pet rabbit, but these also have equally powerful scents and tastes. Also, like cilantro, these should be fed to your pet rabbit sparingly and as infrequent as possible. If you choose to give herbs like cilantro to your pet rabbit, consider it a treat that you give every other day. Wild garden herbs, flowers, and weeds like chamomile, lavender, sow thistle, yarrow, dandelions, clover leaves and goose grass can also be fed to your pet rabbit, but in small and moderate portions.

If you want treats that your rabbit can surely love on the first instance, give him or her a piece of fruit that does not have seeds in them. Good examples of fruit treats are apples, bananas (even banana peels are okay), grapes, strawberries, tomatoes, kiwis, papayas, oranges, pears, pineapples and plums. The reason why fruit treats must be fed in moderation is that these have a high presence of carbohydrates and sugar in the form of fructose. Limit fruit treats every other day or just to two tablespoons per day.

Happy rabbits are those that are fed well, and this disposition usually reflects on the pet owner's responsibility and consistency in mapping out their daily meals. If you ever plan on giving your pet rabbit other kinds of green leafy vegetables, pellets, herbs or fruits that you are a little weary about, consult your veterinarian for sound advice. When introducing new food or treats to your pet rabbits, make sure that you introduce it as slowly as possible since you would not want to upset your pet rabbit's digestive system with an unusual and seemingly foreign meal. Introducing new food one at a time should do the trick in adding variety to your pet meals while at the same time maintaining their digestive system's homeostasis. Your rabbit's tolerance to food depends greatly on how their digestive systems receive it.

Alex is the author of canigivemyrabbit.com. If you want to know if you can give your rabbit Cilantro or other types of food or medication, than please visit my website.

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Netherland Dwarf breeds

2011-10-22T13:15:00.000+07:00

Rabbit breeds derived from breeding larger rabbits with the Netherland dwarf are known as dwarf breeds. Most smaller breeds, like the Mini-Rex, the Jersey Wooly, and the Holland lop, are results of such breedings. Generally dwarf breeds are slightly larger than the typical Netherland dwarf, not growing larger than 4 to 5 lb (1.8 to 2.3 kg). Most have shortened faces compared to larger rabbits, and some even preserve the rounded head, large eyes, or small ears of the Netherland dwarf.These features make them look little.

Most dwarf breeds are intended to bring a specialized characteristic, such as a specific fur type, into a smaller rabbit. Mini-Rex were created through the breeding of dwarfs with Rex rabbits, a fur breed with a short, plush coat, and retain both the dwarf's size and the Rex fur. Jersey Woolies are a dwarf version of the Angora rabbit, a wool-producing breed. Lop-eared rabbit breeds, interbred with dwarfs, were used to create Holland Lop. Despite its name, the Mini Lop is not a dwarf breed.

Breeding

When two "true dwarfs" (both buck and doe) are bred, the genetic pattern which makes them "true dwarfs" (Dwdw) ensures that a percentage of their offspring will inherent the lethal genetic combination DwDw. These offspring, often called "peanuts" by rabbit breeders, are destined to struggle with life for up to three weeks, and then to die. Reasons behind the death are unknown, but it is believed that peanuts have underdeveloped digestive tracts. The condition is 100% fatal, despite claims of some peanuts living to adulthood. Many ethical breeders humanely euthanize peanuts upon finding them soon after birth. Peanuts are easily distinguished from non-peanuts; they have extremely pinched hindquarters, a bulbous head, and their ears are often set further back than normal (sometimes almost onto the neck).

If two true dwarfs are bred, the statistical result will be 25% fatal 25% false, and 50% true. The actual numbers of true/false/peanuts in a real litter varies. "False Dwarfs" tend to have longer bodies, longer/larger ears, longer faces, and are often heavier than the 2.5 pound maximum weight for showing. While false dwarfs do not make good show rabbits, does from a good background are vital to a breeder's program. They have the same "good genes" as a true dwarf and are capable mothers, often having larger and more successful litters than true dwarfs. False dwarfs are easily judged for quality as the traits are generally the same, only bigger. Ear thickness/shape, fullness of hindquarter, topline, and other traits are the same.

It is common practice amongst Netherland Dwarf breeders to breed a proven show quality true dwarf buck to a quality false dwarf doe. This eliminates the chance of peanuts and yields quality offspring. The chances of false dwarfs is higher, but those offspring generally go toward breeding (some false dwarf bucks have proven themselves valuable to a breeding program) or are sold as pets.

Article Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netherland_Dwarf

Netherland Dwarfs as pets

2011-10-22T13:10:00.000+07:00

Behavior Netherland dwarf rabbits have the same basic behavioral traits as dogs or cats. They can be litter-trained, but success varies amongst trainers of any breed.

Netherland Dwarfs have a reputation of being skittish, wild, and/or of poor temperament. This is a leftover stereotype from the beginnings of the breed, when temperament wasn't the best. This has changed through selective breeding, making Dwarfs a docile breed. There are always exceptions, however, and there are testy individuals out there. In general, the Netherland Dwarf is curious and gentle. Those that are handled often learn to seek out human contact and enjoy companionship.

A well-bred Netherland Dwarf makes an excellent pet for both adults and children. They are hardy and, while small, are able to keep up with reasonable play and handling.

Diet
Like other domestic rabbits, dwarf rabbits have a sensitive digestive system that is less hardy than their wild rabbit cousins, and leafy vegetables such as lettuce and cabbage can give them health problems, such as diarrhea, if fed in excess. Young rabbits, up until about six months of age, should not be given vegetables for this reason. Adults can be fed safe fruits and veggies in moderation. In addition, sudden changes to a dwarf rabbit's diet can cause digestive problems, but it generally only lasts a few days and usually causes no real harm/lasting damage.

A very important aspect of rabbit care is proper diet. Many owners unintentionally fail at this point and that often spells disaster for their pet. Netherland Dwarfs have a digestive system even more sensitive than most breeds. The best diet consists of fresh, good quality rabbit pellets fed in limited amounts. It is crucial that the pellets be fresh and stored for no longer than eight weeks, do not use pellets which are moldy or have been contaminated. As pellets age they lose important nutrients, and a rabbit’s system will become susceptible to disease.

The owner should also check the label for the percentages of protein, fiber, and fat. The National Research Council lists minimum rabbit nutrient requirements for a maintenance diet as 14% crude fiber, 2% fat, and 12% protein. It is best to feed a pellet that is higher in fiber (18-20%) and lower in protein (14-15%) and fat (2-3%) to a pet rabbit. Once you find a good brand, stick with it; frequent changes in diet can cause digestive problems. If you need to change brands, be sure to mix the new feed in with the old and increase the amount of new to old over a week's time so the rabbit can adjust.

Netherland Dwarfs generally don't require much feed. A small handful each day is usually enough, but it is important to adjust for each individual to avoid malnourishment/obesity. It is also important not to overfeed a Netherland Dwarf. Hay, however, can be given in unlimited amounts.[2] A traditional ramekin dish full of complementary food and free access to water is always required.

Article Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netherland_Dwarf

Netherland Dwarf

2011-10-22T13:04:00.001+07:00

The Netherland Dwarf is a popular breed of domestic rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) originating in the Netherlands. Smaller than most rabbit breeds, Netherland Dwarf rabbits weigh 500 g to 1.6 kg (1.1 lbs to 3.5 lbs) and are usually kept as pets or exhibition animals. They are not typically used as sources of meat or fur because of their small size.(3 in.)

Most rabbits sold in rabbit shows are Netherland Dwarfs, Netherland Dwarf-derived breeds (often referred to simply as dwarf breeds), or Netherland Dwarf crosses. Their popularity as pets stems from their babyish appearance and their smaller cage space requirement compared to larger rabbit breeds. A lot of people also use Netherland Dwarfs for showing.

History

The Netherland Dwarf breed was first produced in the Netherlands in the early 20th century. Small Polish rabbits were bred with smaller wild rabbits;[1] after several generations the resulting animal was a very small domestic rabbit available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Netherland Dwarfs were first imported into the United Kingdom in 1948.[1] In the 1960s and 1970s the United States imported its first Netherland Dwarf rabbits. The breed was accepted by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association in 1969 using a modification of the British standard.[1]

Early dwarfs, even into the 1970s and 1980s, had fearful and sometimes aggressive temperaments. This was a result of breeders selecting wild breeding animals for their size. The first dwarf rabbits behaved more like these wild rabbits than domestic animals and were not good pets. However, through generations of selective breeding, the modern Netherland Dwarf has become a gentle, friendly pet rabbit, though it still retains a more energetic disposition than larger breeds.

Appearance

Netherland Dwarfs' heads and eyes are disproportionately large with respect to their bodies, and their ears are tiny and carried high on the head. Additionally, their faces are rounded and shortened. These features, a part of the animals' dwarfism, cause them to look infantile even into adulthood.
1½ year old red-eyed-white (REW) Netherland Dwarf.

Dwarf crosses frequently retain some of these characteristics, depending on the breed the dwarf is crossed with. However, crosses rarely look as babyish as the purebred dwarfs and are usually somewhat larger.

Purebred Netherland Dwarfs come in a wide variety of colors, including Himalayan, Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac, Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, Tortoiseshell, Chestnut, Siamese Sable, Opal, Lynx, Squirrel, Chinchilla, Otter, Tan, Silver Marten, Sable Marten, Smoke Pearl Marten, Orange, Fawn, Steel, Broken, Blue-Eyed White and Ruby Eyed White.[1] Other colors (including mismarks) exist in non-show-quality Netherland Dwarfs and in dwarf mongrel rabbits.

Article Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netherland_Dwarf

Everything You Need to Know About Rabbit Runs

2011-09-09T13:28:00.002+07:00

Who wants to know boring facts about rabbits? Not us!

Here are some fun, little-known facts that are a bit more interesting than your usual 'largest rabbit', 'longest ears' sort of stuff!

Rabbits hate baths (and don't need them)
Ok, so a few of you may know of a pet rabbit that doesn't mind the odd bath or shower (even with you!) but in general bunnies don't like baths and should never be given one. Their fur takes a long time to dry so they could catch a chill while drying plus moist fur can attract parasites. Rabbits like to spend a large part of their day grooming themselves and this, along with a little human help in the form of brushing, is usually all they need to stay clean and tidy.

Rabbits' claws don't retract.
Unlike cats' claws which extended to catch prey, hook a toy and scratch your favourite sofa, rabbits' claws are permanently extended. They need them for traction when they are walking so never get your rabbit declawed. It it a very painful procedure plus it makes it harder for them to walk on smooth surfaces.

Bunnies like chocolate
Bunnies have a sweet tooth and will happily munch away on chocolate, sweets and biscuits. That's not to say that you should be feeding these to your bun. They have no nutritional value and have no place in their diet! Buns also love vegetables and fruits that are high in natural sugars like carrots and apples but at least these are good for them in moderation.

Bunnies can sleep with their eyes open
If you've ever wondered why your bun sits in his cage and seems to stare at you with eyes wide open, it may be because he's asleep. The tell tale sign is his nose. If it's twitching he is still awake but if it's still then he's catching a few Z's.

Bunnies love to taste new things
Rabbits have over 17,000 taste buds in their mouths. Compare that to humans who have around 10,000. Your bun loves to try out new things and in the wild this comes in handy as they gather their daily nutrient requirements from taking a nibble here and there from many plants. You can cater to your bunny's refined palate by offering a wide range of vegetables, plants and fruit to eat along with his hay.

Rabbits really do breed like well, rabbits!
Female bunnies (does) can have a litter every month. Let's say just one mama rabbit starts out and has a litter every month and three of those are female babies. She and her babies will go on to have the same (3 baby girls, 12 times a year) as will their offspring. At the end of three years there will be over 50,000 rabbits and at the end of four years, just one year later, there will be 1.8 million... scary stuff!

Of course this example was just a bit of fun because conditions would not always be perfect (babies would die etc) but it does show what could potentially happen.

We hope you enjoyed these and they help you to understand a little bit more about your precious, intriguing and fabulous bunny.

More facts about rabbits.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3713701

Facts about rabbits as pets

2011-09-09T13:28:00.000+07:00

Bunnies are very popular amongst children. Story books, movies, and cartoons are all filled with rabbit characters that show a personality which results to the misconception that rabbits and children are perfect for each other.

Getting a rabbit for a young child could be disastrous. If you have been thinking of buying this pet, then you might want to take the time in reading the following considerations in caring for a rabbit. Of course, it is important that you never allow your child to have a pet in which he is not capable of taking care of.

There is really no need to be a very mature person to successfully own a pet rabbit. But, the fact is that these pets are much like having a toddler in the home. They are very fun and delightful, yet they can be quite a handful to care for. The need for time, effort, patience, and tolerance should be devoted in getting the best out of them.

Be ready to devote your time in training rabbits. Yes, they can be litter trained, also known as toilet training. They are highly capable of being trained, but you need to be prepared in meeting accidents first. A number of droppings and urine could be anywhere in the home, especially during the earlier stages of training. The key to a good training is patience. However, rabbits are intelligent by nature, and highly trainable. In fact, they even have the ability to learn a few tricks. With time, perseverance, and a little patience, your pet will be able to learn what is being taught in no time.

Rabbit-proofing some parts of the home should be emphasized. There are some areas in your house that the rabbits are not allowed to roam around as these could be potentially dangerous for both your family, and the pet.

Keep on watch during the time when the child interacts with the rabbit, especially during exercise. Aside from that, your pet should be allowed to spend time out of the cage for at last 3-4 hours daily.

In having a rabbit, always keep in mind that you need to sacrifice some of your belongings. Rabbits are simply inclined to chew and scratch as they are familiarizing themselves with their new home. These experiments are normal, and could be seen in virtually every pet mammal. However, there are toys and other equipment that could divert these specific needs to other means. Keep in mind that their natural instinct to chew and dig could vary according to different factors such as age, or if they have been neutered or spayed, along with what type of toys they have been provided.

Rabbits are delightful to have. They are very entertaining to look at, they have limitless energy, their ability to learn tricks is impressive, and they are capable of socializing with the people they live with, as well as other pets, if introduced. The responsibility of taking care of these fun creatures will not surpass the brightness they can add to your home.

Davidd Warren enjoys writing for The Rabbit Hutch Shop which sells rabbit hutch and rabbit hutches as well as a host of additional products.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Davidd_Warren

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5961179

All about rabbits

2011-09-09T13:26:00.000+07:00

If you're not ready for the abundant energy and care needs of a dog and a cat is just not your cup of tea, perhaps you should look into a rabbit as a pet. Rabbits have been a common household pet for a long time. There are several reasons for this. First they are a very gentle creature and do very well with children. Their soft fur and big ears make them irresistible to kids. Rabbits require very little in the way of care. A clean cage, a little food and water and the rabbit can pretty much be left alone. They of course prefer some human contact and love, but they can go long periods without it and not feel hurt.

Once you find a rabbit, you need to provide it with a hutch. The hutch should be spacious enough to allow the rabbit the freedom to do a little jumping around, especially if you don't plan to let it out regularly for exercise. Cover the bottom of the hutch with grass, hay or shredded newspapers to keep it clean. A sleeping area that provides the rabbit with a feeling of more security also should be included. The hutch should be covered for protection, especially if located outdoors. Many unfortunate rabbit owners have woken to a missing rabbit, taken by one of their many natural predators. Also, make sure the hutch is well ventilated to prevent the rabbits from overheating.

Food for the rabbit is a fairly simple affair. You can find rabbit pellets at any pet store and these pellets will provide the rabbit will all the nutrition it requires. Of course the poor rabbit will quickly tire of such a routine diet and it's always nice to spice it up a bit with some fresh vegetables. Though rabbits will eat carrots, they aren't as fond of them as Bugs Bunny would lead you to believe. They prefer lettuce and other green plants, including the tops of carrots. Keep in mind that a rabbit will graze continuously and can quickly become overweight if they aren't getting the proper exercise. Any processed foods designed for human consumptions should be avoided as rabbits are very sensitive to chemicals. Make sure the rabbit always has a supply of fresh clean water.

Rabbits have teeth that grow throughout their lives and therefore they need a way to wear them down. Foods that contain high fiber content, such as fresh grass and hay, are a good choice. This fiber is also essential to the rabbit's natural digestive process. Be careful giving them plants from a garden as they can be poisonous to a rabbit.
The last thing you need to do is provide your rabbit with love. These animals can form attachments to humans and are quite bonding. Rabbits are perfectly happy sitting at your side or in your lap while you watch TV.

This article was provided by Josh Hall of Pet-Super-Store.com, where you can find the Garmin Astro and Tri-tronics products.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Josh_Hall

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4277360

Complete Rabbit Food Ideas

2011-01-11T23:17:00.003+07:00

Raising a pet rabbit can be very easy and fun...that is, if you do it right. What are the things that you need to know?

What shall you do to start it right and to make it certain that you are on the right track in pet rabbit raising? - these are just some common questions that need to be addressed before you commence raising a pet rabbit.

A very important thing that you need to remember to begin your rabbit raising is to be knowledgeable on what foods necessary for your dear bunny. This is very basic that every pet rabbit raiser should know even before the actual rabbit raising. Being knowledgeable enough helps you to have a happy and healthy rabbits in your community.

To have a better chance to become a successful rabbit raiser, it is a great help to know the complete rabbit food resources. Meaning, to know the sources of foods that your pet needs to survive. What are some sources of rabbit foods?

Rabbits are herbivores in nature, meaning they only eat plants. They love to eat fruits and veggies. Some of what they enjoy eating are seeds, herbs, grass, twigs.

However, when it comes giving domestic rabbit foods , pet rabbits are also fed with instant, more easy to prepare foods - like pellets. There is no question about giving your rabbits with pellets for as long as you know you are giving the necessary nutrients they need. It is important that you keep an eye on nutrition composition of the pellets you give - you can do it by reading the labels of the product before buying - buy only the pellets that have the necessary nutrients.

When giving your rabbit with conventional or traditional foods, it is important that you know what are specific types that they love. It is imperative that you know about domestic rabbit foods. When you give something and they response well, certainly they like what you are giving. Otherwise, do not bother giving the same food again.

Common foods that rabbits would love to eat include lettuce leaves, carrots, apple branches ( be sure this is not treated with pesticides), herbs like cilantro, timothy or orchard hay. You have to remember also to avoid giving treats that are too watery, sugary, or salty. And, again, if your rabbits do not react well on what you are giving, stop feeding them with that or do not give it to them at all.

Rabbits love to eat, you can always see them chewing something. But it does not mean you give them foods as often as you like. Just like with other pets, giving to much is not good. In fact, too much can also be fatal to them. So, as a rabbit raiser, know what is necessary for them.

P.S. David Troy is a rabbit enthusiast who has successfully raised pet rabbit in years. He is also running an online resource which is aimed to give important information about effective pet rabbit raising at home through his website http://rabbit-center.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Troy

Protein in Rabbit Food

2011-01-05T23:14:00.001+07:00

How much protein do rabbits need?

Why do rabbit foods have different amounts of protein and how much do they really need? Is an 18% crude protein rabbit food worth the extra cost?

The answers to these questions really depend upon protein quality. If your rabbits poop smells strongly of ammonia then the protein in the feed is probably getting wasted.

Excess unbalanced and undigested protein produces ammonia when it reaches the ceacum (place where rabbits digest certain types of fiber). Normally good bacteria digest fiber in the ceacum but increasing amounts of ammonia will change the pH so that bad bacteria can grow causing rabbits to have digestive problems.

A word on Yucca root: Some rabbit foods try to cover this problem with yucca root because the saponins in it bind to ammonia.

Protein is made up of building blocks called amino acids. They need to be in the feed in a certain ratio. This ratio (and their digestibility) is what determines protein quality. For example, the many of the amino acids can be converted from one to another. However, certain "limiting" amino acids cannot be converted and must be obtained in the diet. When growing, the body of the rabbit will draw from a pool of amino acids. If one of them is in excess of need then it will get wasted. If one of the limiting amino acids is in short supply then the rabbit will have to eat more food to get that one amino acid and waste everything else. Balancing the amino acid profile of rabbit food can have a profound impact upon the health and feed efficiency of growing rabbits.

Depending upon quality, a 15% CRUDE PROTEIN RABBIT FOOD CAN BE MORE EFFECTIVE
THAN ONE THAT IS 18%.

To learn more about a scientifically balanced natural rabbit food...
Check out naturalrabbitfood.com

David Sherwood has grown up raising rabbits for fun and profit. His advanced academic and real world experience have given him extensive knowledge that will help you understand and solve many of the problems that face those who raise rabbits. To learn more about his qualifications and to get 'common sense' answers to rabbit questions, go to http://naturalrabbitfood.com

To learn more about the importance of using a balanced natural rabbit food and to see it's unique and proven formulation (now commercially available), go to: http://naturalrabbitfood.com/crude-protein/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Sherwood

Fiber in Rabbit Food

2010-12-29T23:10:00.002+07:00

Rabbits need the right types and sizes of fiber in their food!

You may already know that rabbits need a high fiber diet to prevent digestive problems, but did you know that they need the right types of fiber and, for optimal health, that they need them to be in certain sizes and ratios in their food? If they don't it could slow their digestion, stunt their growth, and reduce feed efficiency.

How can you tell if your rabbit food has the right kind of fiber in the right sizes?
Rabbits need two basic types of fiber: Indigestible, and digestible. The indigestible types need to be larger in size (approximately 1.7mm or larger) than the digestible types of fiber.

This is because, at the end of the digestive tract, rabbits sort the unabsorbed portion of their food based on size. The smaller particles are channeled into the ceacum to be fermented by bacteria. If the ceacum contains mostly digestible fiber then good bacteria will ferment it to produce nutrients vitamins for the rabbit. If the ceacum contains indigestible fiber or high amounts of grain or protein supplements then bad bacteria will grow causing digestive troubles like bloating and diarrhea for your rabbits.

The best way to tell if your rabbit food will cause problems is to take a pellet in your hands and break it apart.

If it is composed of mostly small particles then you'll know that all of it will likely end up in the ceacum and slow digestion as already discussed. If it has large particles then take a closer look at the large particles. If they are "woody" or stringy and tough fibrous plant materials then they'll probably do their job, but check the rabbit food label. If it has a lot of grain and grain by-products, or high concentrations of protein supplements like soybean meal then beware!

For more information and pictures regarding the right kind of fiber you should have in your rabbit food check out naturalrabbitfood.com/crude-fiber

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Sherwood

A Guide to Rabbit Food

2010-12-25T23:04:00.001+07:00

Providing a healthy diet for your rabbit is slightly more involved than simply filling his bowl with pellets every day. Rabbits need certain nutrients, just like people do, and with just a little effort, you can provide your rabbit with a healthy and complete diet. The following is a list of the commercial rabbit food and fresh produce you will want to feed your animal.

Hay
Hay is the most important food in a rabbit's diet, and it should be made available for your rabbit to graze on at all times. Hay contains the roughage, fiber, and other essential nutrients that a rabbit needs to stay healthy. There are different types of grass hay, such as timothy, brome, Bermuda, prairie, oat, and mixed orchard grass. Any is good. Alfalfa, however, is a type of hay you should avoid, as it is too high in calories and calcium to be given in large quantities.

Pellets
If you have an adult rabbit, you should choose timothy-based pellets, and not alfalfa-based pellets. Choose pellets that contain at least 20 percent fiber content. Buy only what your animal can eat in a month, as pellets will lose their nutritional value over time.

Vegetables
Vegetables and greens are an essential part of a rabbit's diet and should be given daily. Good choices include parsley, cilantro, endive, romaine lettuce, spinach, dandelion greens (do not pick greens from areas where pesticides may have been used), watercress, and carrot tops. Carrots should only be offered in limited quantities, as they contain sugar. Broccoli, kale, and cabbage can also be given, but should not be given in large quantities as they can cause gas. Beans, onions, rhubarb, corn, peas, nuts, and seeds are dangerous for rabbits, and should never be given. Before you feed vegetables to your rabbit, wash them and check for any bad parts. Be sure to cut those parts off before serving them.

Fruit
Rabbits have a sweet tooth, but as with humans, too much sugar can be bad for rabbits, including the sugar naturally contained in fruit. You should offer fruit very sparingly and only as a treat or a training reward. Fruit that rabbits are known to enjoy include apples (remove the seeds as they are toxic), strawberries, blueberries, peaches, pears, plums, watermelon, and orange slices (peeled).

Looking for a reliable, comprehensive guide on top rabbit food brands in the UK? The inside scoop now on http://www.burgesspetcare.co.uk/products/rabbit.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Andrew_Woodcock

Baby Rabbit Food

2010-12-21T22:58:00.001+07:00

Baby rabbits are healthier and grow faster with a specially designed baby rabbit food that is high in fat and fiber. In fact, baby rabbits are accustomed to the doe's milk that is high in fat and low in sugar (Coates et. al. 1964).

Baby rabbits don't produce enough enzymes needed to digest excess starch (sugar) until later in life. Feeding baby rabbits a diet with a lot of grain or grain by-products makes them more likely to get diarrhea. A rabbit feed higher in fat and lower in carbohydrates helps baby bunnies make the switch from the doe's milk at weaning and provides the energy they need for healthy growth.

As baby bunnies get older they still naturally use fat as an energy source. In fact, rabbits need a high fiber diet because good bacteria ferment fiber in the caecum to produce the healthy fats rabbits use.
Scientific studies show that increasing the fat content of rabbit food will improve protein AND energy efficiency as well as improve the feed conversion ratio (easily by 20%) for growing rabbits (Arrington et. al.1974).

Most commercial rabbit feeds don't have near enough fat and fall short of the needs of baby bunnies. Generally, they have less than 3% crude fat when research shows that baby rabbit food should have around 8% fat when balanced with high quality protein.

If you choose a healthy rabbit food that has a higher fat content for your growing bunny rabbits then make sure it is using oil from natural sources and not simply refined vegetable oil or worse, rendered animal fat. This is because when adding fat to a rabbit's diet you should also be adding vitamin E, which whole oil seeds from plants naturally have.

• Whole oil seeds are naturally high in vitamin E.
• Rendered animal fat or refined vegetable oils ARE NOT!

To learn more about a high fat natural baby rabbit food check out naturalrabbitfood.com
Arrington, L.R., J.K. Platt, and D.E. Franke 1974. Fat Utilization by Rabbits. Journalof Animal Science 38:76-80.

Coates, M.E., MargretE. Gregory, and S.Y. Thompson 1964. The Composition of Rabbit's Milk. British Journal of Nutrition 18:583-586

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Sherwood

Pregnant Rabbit Food

2010-12-17T22:54:00.003+07:00

Pregnant rabbits require food with a more energy than normal pet food to be able to support their growing baby bunnies. This is especially important during the last two weeks of pregnancy. The type of food should be different than one that is made for pet rabbits. Most commercial rabbit feeds will work fine as a pregnant rabbit food but some brands are far better than others (I discuss this in detail in my website).

After your rabbit gives birth to a new litter of baby bunnies it is best to switch her with a high-fat rabbit food. This is important to stimulate the milk production needed to support the health of growing bunnies (Fortun-Lamothe L. 1997). Research shows that you'll see major improvements in the health of growing baby bunnies and improved feed efficiency when using a high-fat rabbit food.

Most commercial rabbit feeds have very little fat. Additionally, those that claim to have added fat for "show rabbits" are simply adding a little "natural" vegetable oil. Two things are wrong with this scenario. First, these types of rabbit foods still have less than 4% fat when growing rabbits should be getting at least twice that amount! Second, vegetable oil is refined and and lacks the natural vitamins needed. Plants that use oil to store energy in seeds also package vitamin E with it. Feeds that use cheep refined soybean oil will not have the same amount of vitamin E as feeds that use whole natural oil seeds like flax, canola (rape), and others as an oil source. This is important because when adding fat to any diet you should also add vitamin E.

Following these dietary recommendations for feeding pregnant rabbits will improve their health. If you plan on breeding more rabbits then it is also important to learn how to rear Does before they become pregnant. The information found in the website below is guaranteed to improve your success and reduce the culling rates of nursing and pregnant rabbits and the mortality rates of their growing bunnies. It also details what you should feed your rabbits months before breeding them and how to find the best kind of pregnant rabbit food.

To learn more about his qualifications and to get 'common sense' answers to rabbit questions, go to http://naturalrabbitfood.com

To learn more about the importance of using a balanced natural rabbit food and to see it's unique and proven formulation (now commercially available), go to: http://naturalrabbitfood.com/sherwood-forest-natural-rabbit-food/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Sherwood

The Truth About Rabbit Treats

2010-12-17T07:56:00.000+07:00

Many rabbit owners come to think of their rabbits as children. They lavish their bunnies with all the indulgence and attention one might give to a small child, never missing an opportunity to slip Flopsy a treat. Unfortunately, rabbits that are consistently spoiled by overfeeding of treats, and especially the wrong treats, will suffer severe health problems. Excessive snacking is a common cause of obesity and other health problems in pet rabbits, but is easily avoided by following some common-sense guidelines.

It helps to begin with a basic understanding of the rabbit digestive system. When a rabbit eats, the food first passes into the stomach. Not much happens here- the food is simply sterilized to prepare it for further digestion. The food continues down into the small colon, where the majority of the sugar and protein is digested, as in humans. Indigestible fiber continues down the digestive tract, and although no nutrients are absorbed from it, it cleans out the tract and conditions the muscles that keep waste moving through the system, before being excreted as the hard, dry pellets you find in the litterbox.

At this point, though, a great deal of the mass of hay and grass the rabbit has eaten has not yet been digested. These tough, hard to digest materials are diverted into an organ called the cecum, which is home to a thriving bacterial metropolis. These beneficial bacteria do the dirty work of breaking down tough compounds like lignin and cellulose, which would otherwise be impossible to digest. The partially digested food, clumped into mucous-covered pellets called cecotrophes or "night pellets", is then passed back into the colon and excreted, only to be immediately re-ingested by the rabbit! This "coprophagic" behavior isn't something you want to think about much if you're squeamish, but luckily, it tends to happen out of sight- hence the term "night pellets." Pleasant or not, it is an absolutely essential biological process for rabbits, and anything that disturbs this process will lead to health problems.

The bacterial colony in the cecum is delicately balanced. Beneficial bacteria must compete with "squatter" bacteria that do not contribute to the digestive process, as well as adapting to the rabbit's internal chemistry.

They thrive on consistency- no news is good news, as far as cecal bacteria are concerned. When you give a rabbit a sweet, sugary treat, those bacteria suddenly have a rich supply of quick, easy energy to feed on, and their population explodes. The chemistry of the cecum shifts, and the bacteria have to struggle to adjust.

When this happens, rabbit owners often observe what is known in technical terms as "poopy butt syndrome." The rabbit's cecotrophes lose their consistency, and instead of passing cleanly from the anus and being re-eaten, they cake onto the rabbit's rear. This can lead to a whole host of other problems, and if the problem is not addressed, may end in death.

At this point, you might be wondering, "Why give rabbits treats at all?" The answer is pretty straightforward: for all the same reasons you would give a child an ice cream cone. It makes the child happy, which is its own reward, and it can be a great way to reinforce a positive behavior. Rabbits are the same. They enjoy those rich, sweet snacks just as much as we do, and a little dessert now and again will be a pleasure to your bunny.

Moreover, treats are extremely useful when it comes to litter training, teaching tricks, or simply establishing a pet-owner bond. When healthful treats are given in sensible quantities, the end results should be an improvement in the rabbit's overall quality of life.

Rabbit treats usually fall into one of several categories: Compressed cereal bars/sticks, mueslix, pellets or puffed kibble, and candied treats. What all types of rabbit treats have in common are high levels of sugar, fat, protein, and starch. Any one of these nutrients can lead to the kinds of problems mentioned earlier, so it's important to restrict your rabbit's intake of any treat. Yoghurt-covered cqandy drops are the worst culprits in this respect, and though many rabbits love these treats, they should probably be avoided except on the most special occasions, or when the rabbit is underweight. Seed and grain mixes seem are a better alternative, as they contain little sugar, but remember that seeds are rich, high-protein packages. Rabbits retain body fat even better than humans, so that they can keep warm while wintering, but since you should be keeping your rabbit indoors for the winter, you want to keep them from bulking up unnecessarily. As an alternative to packaged treats, try fresh fruit. Rabbits typically enjoy berries, melon, papaya, apple (without stem or seeds), and many others. Bananas are a bit more starchy and sweet than you really want, so they should probably be avoided.

At the end of the day, rabbits are individuals, and there are no hard and fast rules for them. The best way to give your rabbits treats in a sensible, healthy manner is to introduce them as gradually as possible. As you begin to give treats on a limited basis, keep observing your rabbit. If he loses appetite, develops diarrhea or becomes gassy, or begins to put on weight excessively, stop giving treats for a while. When the problem is resolved, you can try offering something else, ideally something with a lower sugar or protein content. Keep experimenting, but always be patient and conservative. You should be able to find a healthy balance for your rabbit, one that is stimulating and enjoyable without negatively impacting its overall quality of life.

Even healthy Rabbit Treats can have ill effects on your pet rabbit if you feed them excessively. It's hard not to spoil your rabbit but you must ration the amount of treats you provide them, to ensure your rabbit stays healthy and happy. In addition to treats it's of the utmost importance to provide your rabbit with quality Rabbit Cages to relax in.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Massaro

Baby Rabbit Care - What To Do If You Have Bunny Newborns

2010-12-17T03:27:00.000+07:00

The phrase "multiply like rabbits" isn't just a saying, rabbits are known for breeding a lot and quickly. Baby rabbit care is especially important in the first couple of weeks because they are very vulnerable to many outside factors even in a domestic environment.

It's important to check on your baby rabbits fairly often. It can be quite an exhausting chore, but is really important in the first few weeks of life. Mother rabbits generally feed their young in the early hours of the morning. A good time to check on these little guys is around 3-4am. Be sure that they're feeding well.

If it looks as though they are not, Kitten Milk Replacer (which you can find at your local pet store) is a very good substitute. However, KMR is not quite a caloric as rabbits milk, so you may want to add a tablespoon of cream per can, to raise the caloric level a bit.

The best way to feed baby bunnies is to use an oral syringe, which you can pick up at any pharmacy. This will allow you to measure adequate amounts for feeding as well as to be sure the rabbits are actually ingesting the food.

If one of the young manage to get away from the litter be sure to put them back as gently as possible. If they stay away from their brothers, sisters and mother for too long they will get cold, and it is extremely important that they stay warm during this time.

Sadly, one thing to keep in mind is that baby bunnies are very fragile creatures. Even those with the best baby rabbit care may not necessarily make it through infancy. Do not blame yourself if you lose any from a litter if you have tried your best. In some cases, there just isn't anything that can be done.

To give yourself the best opportunity to raise happy and healthy rabbits, be sure to look into getting a bunny care guide [http://www.bunnycare.info]. These guides will teach you everything you need to know about raising rabbits, training them, and keeping them as pets.

Rick is the author of Bunny Care a blog dedicated to helping rabbit owners keep their pets happy and healthy.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rick_Aspen

How to Raise Rabbits - Guide on Food and Grooming

2010-12-16T15:30:00.001+07:00

So, you have finally decided to get a pet rabbit. These adorable, fluffy creatures are really cute, but there's one problem: you do not know how to raise rabbits. Fear not! Although it will require you a bit of work and time, it does not take much to know the answers on how to raise rabbits. A little patience and a heart that loves bunnies would go a long way to keep the little bun buns happy and content.

The basic knowledge on raising rabbits is to know what kind of food and drink to give them. This is simple. For the food, give them a mix of hay, fruits and vegetables. Alfalfa hay is suited for younger bunnies, while timothy hay would please a grown up bunny more. Rabbits love fruits. Pears, apples, melons, peaches and strawberries are good choices for rabbit food.

You can cut them into bite-sized pieces for the rabbits. As for the vegetables, everybody knows that carrots are rabbits' best friend (or food, for that matter). Load their food bowl with carrots and leafy vegetables like spinach and broccoli. For rabbits that run regularly, you can let them eat dandelions as long as they are free from pesticide.

Some rabbit owners focus too much on food and forget that water is important on how to raise rabbits, too. The best way to provide water for your pet bunny is to place a water bottle outside its' cage, but still within reach. You do not want to put it inside because the rabbit can knock it off, and it will make rabbit house cleaning difficult for you. Change the water every day. Clean the bottle and nozzle regularly with warm water.

Humans want to look good, and so do rabbits! You have to groom your rabbit regularly. The frequency depends on the length of the rabbit's hair. For a rabbit with short fur, brush the fur once or twice a week with a brush that is specifically designed for rabbit fur. This can be bought in pet shops. For rabbits with long fur, it is important that you groom your rabbit everyday. Brushing the fur daily keeps it from getting matted. Alternatively, you can bring it to professional animal groomers who know how to raise rabbits and have the fur trimmed regularly to keep it short, so that you wouldn't have to brush it everyday. Brush the rabbit's fur gently.

Learn step by step the right way on how to raise rabbits the first time and avoid having to make painful mistakes that beginner rabbit owner's are prone too. Separate yourself from the average rabbit owner who will end up harming their rabbits without knowing it and you could learn more tips on raising rabbits from the guide here: http://www.howtoraiserabbits.com.

Don't forget to claim your FREE "4 Rabbit Care Tips That Every Rabbit Owners Should Know!" eReport!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gail_Paterson

Pet Rabbit Food Supplies

2010-12-14T22:40:00.001+07:00

Doctor Brown: Have you got a cute rabbit that wants quality food? What are the best types of food for your rabbit? Did you know a rabbit needs more than just pellets to stay healthy? Where can you get cheap quality food for your rabbit? Did you know rabbits love eating weeds, lawn and other vegetables? How can you make your rabbit healthy and happy by simply giving it vegetables and clean water?

Can you make your rabbit happy by feeding it delicious cheap food?

If you can imagine yourself as a rabbit then you too would like quality delicious food. Some of the vegetables that you grow or eat are also a rabbit's favorite delicacies. Please remember to wash the vegetables first because some vegetables have pesticides on them. You wouldn't want your rabbit to eat it. Rabbits are one of the simplest pets to have. They have a huge diet that varies from weeds to bread.

Rabbits are lovely, cuddly and peaceful animals. They are either eating, resting or mating. This is the life of a rabbit. In the wild they are running away from predators. They rarely make any noise. They have a diet that varies from carrots to different garden weeds. Although you may think weeds are disgusting but it is a rabbit's delicacy. It is important to allow your rabbit to eat a balanced diet and keep it healthy. Rabbits also need exercise.

It is important to let you rabbit out of its hutch as often as possible to give it fresh air, sun light and to warm its muscles. Your rabbit will be very happy because living in a hutch is like a jail. It is important to understand that your rabbit also needs exercise so remember to let it out more often. Rabbits love to roam and nibble at weeds around the home. They do not want to be stuck in a hutch all day long. Don't keep it outside overnight because cats can injure or kill your rabbit. Rabbits also love clean water especially in the hot summer months.

There are various types of food that you can purchase at the supermarkets. Here are a few types of food you could fee your rabbit:
1. Carrots
2. Cabbages
3. Capsicum
4. Cucumbers
5. Apples
6. Pears
7. Vegetables
8. Bread
9. Lettuce
10. Water melons
11. Corn
12. Potatoes
13. Broccoli
14. Cauliflower
15. Zucchinis

Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits don't need that much attention because they are timid and shy. Rabbit manure is a great fertilizer for your garden.

Lam Bong is an Author living in Sydney, Australia. He is interested in reading and creating websites. His latest website is about Pack Rafting Holiday Tips and finding the Cheap Pack Raft Shops on the web today.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lam_Bong

Top Tips For Pet Rabbit Care

2010-12-14T03:21:00.000+07:00

It's a Pet - Not a Toy
As a pet, rabbits do not necessarily come to mind as a pet that needs to have a lot of care and attention. However, just like cats and dogs, rabbits need a considerable amount of both of those things in order to live a long and truly healthy life.

Spay or Neuter Your Bunny
A very important decision to be made is to spay or not spay. Spaying or neutering a rabbit typically lengthens their lifespan by two or more years. But factually, there is evidence that points to be spaying a rabbit leading to a more manageable behavior. Rabbits that aren't spayed can become territorial and very possessive later in their reproductive lives. When they are spayed or neutered, possessiveness is reduced, as well as moodiness, aggressiveness, and excessive biting and chewing.

Fur Balls
To avoid excessive fur balls, brushing a rabbit regularly is highly advised. At times, rabbits may swallow the fur balls their bodies create and that is a problem mainly because they can't spit it back up. So, this could definitely derail future digestive problems. For a short haired rabbit, brushing at least once a week is the advised brushing time. Rabbits shed every three months and it is advised to brush them daily when they do this and to brush even more frequently during the heaviest part of the shed.

The preferred brush to use on a rabbit is one specifically designed for them because to skin is very delicate and tougher brushes may irritate or cause them pain quite easily. Angora rabbits, no matter what period of time it is, require a daily brushing because their hair tends to be much longer than shorter hair rabbits. Along with daily brushing, keeping their hair trimmed to about 1-inch is also advised.

No Rabbit Baths
Baths as a way to clean them is definitely not advised. Baths tend to cause rabbits to develop a very stressful state and it is better to rely on "spot cleaning" opposed to placing them in a bath. Spot cleaning allows you to focus on one dirty spot a time to clean instead of getting their entire bodies wet.

If bathing is absolutely positively necessary, it is best to clean the rabbit as quickly as possible and to remember it takes a long while for their fur to dry so try not to get them too wet. A blow dryer is advised to use to speed the drying process. But even though instructions are given, it is best to try not to rely on bathing your rabbit at all.

Rabbits Chew
Rabbits need hard items to chew on in order to keep their teeth healthy and strong. If you allow your rabbit to roam free in your house, try to rabbit-proof the place so that rabbits do not chew on your furniture, wires, etc.

Keep within their reach plenty of chewable items because it is very vital to their day-to-day living.

Other Factors
Security is also important to rabbits. They have to be held properly and in a way that makes them feel completely and totally safe. They are used to being hunted so they automatically become defensive or afraid if held improperly, which can lead to scratching.

Finding a great veterinarian who is trained in rabbit care is also important in terms of caring for a rabbit because they are considered to be an exotic pet and when something goes wrong, you want to know that you have someone you can call to be there for you.

If you are going to have a pet bunny, you should probably look at a few rabbit cages. Even if you have a rabbit-proof-fence for your yard or keep them in the house, bunnies need a safe and secure place to bed down for a good night's sleep. A rabbit hutch is also a good option. For more information and tips visit http://www.rabbitcagesforsale.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aravel_Johnson