ragbags and gladrags - Made by the Sea

I am Patterns - Irma Dress

2024-04-20T20:50:00.001+01:00

I was busy scrolling on my phone when I saw the most beautiful shirt dress pattern. The Irma Dress and Shirt by I Am Patterns. This pattern company was completely new to me. I have never seen their patterns or made any of them up before so with my Christmas money I bought the pattern, had a good look at it and decided which view and style I would make.

This is a roomy pattern and is designed to be very loose. I compared my measurements to the size chart and made the size 36. I am normally a size 38 in Burdastyle patterns. The pattern features two length options and two sleeve options. The dress version has a high/ low hem, concealed button placket and a deep back pleat, sewn in a flowy fabric that will swish beautifully while a more structured fabric will carry the shape well. The shirt version has an even hem and is just a little lower than the waist. It has the same button placket and back pleat.
The sleeve options are a standard shirt sleeve and a balloon-shaped sleeve with gathers at the cuff.

I decided to make the dress version. This pattern is drafted for 5ft 5in height. I am taller than that so I did a bit of investigating about the sizing of this dress and to see if I needed to make any initial alterations. After reading a few reviews I added 2.5cm to the length. I think this is just about right for me, and as I used a baby hem for the finish the length was perfect. I didn’t alter the length of the sleeve. I made the full gathered version and despite measuring my arm length and thinking this would be ok - it is a little short. To solve this issue instead of using the cuff pattern piece I doubled the width of the cuff, which gives a little more length, but it’s still a little bit too short. I will be adding about 5cm to the length of the sleeve for my next version.

Otherwise, the pattern is well-drafted and the instructions are pretty clear. It came together super quickly and I’m very happy with the result. This will be getting lots of wear as it’s a perfect transitional piece of clothing.

When I decided to make the I Am Patterns Irma dress I knew that I wanted something with some movement, but not too shifty and tricky to sew. I also didn’t want a stupidly busy print and I’m not really a fan of florals - with a few exceptions! I decided to use a viscose as I knew that the drape would be good. I noticed this fabric as I was browsing the lovely fabrics on Minerva and the slightly woodblockish design of this fabric had me hooked. I ordered the required amount for the pattern, but really could have done with a few cm’s more to allow me to lengthen the sleeves. I will know for next time!

As usual, I prewashed the fabric on my normal 30 wash. I did overlock the cut edges as this type of fabric can tend to snag and pull in the wash. Being quite light it dries quickly, even in my slightly cool house and pressing it was a dream. Medium hot iron and just a little steam and it was perfect. It was pretty stable to sew with. I did use a little side table to support the weight of the bigger pieces to prevent stretching while sewing, but had no issues with anything stretching out of shape. Due to the design of the dress, I interfaced all the plackets, cuffs and collar to give some structure in these areas.

I sewed this up using a microtex needle (my favourite type). I only used the overlocker to neaten the seam where the sleeves and bodice meet. Elsewhere all the seams are enclosed. I even took the time to do French seams on the sides/ sleeves as these would be visible due to the high-low hem. For the same reason I created a baby hem - It takes a bit longer but is worth it.

The only issue I had with the fabric was a few times when the threads snagged on the needle. I think this would have been way worse if I hadn’t used a microtex, but it would have benefitted from a slightly finer needle.

Enjoy all the swishiness of this dress.

Spotty Circle Skirt

2024-04-11T20:50:00.002+01:00

This is a ¾ circle skirt. As such there is no pattern. You can work out the sizes you need to cut using an online calculator. I had decided That I wanted a maxi-length skirt. I can’t remember which online calculator I used, but they are app pretty similar. You input your waist measurement, the width of your fabric and the length and fullness of the skirt you would like. It tells you which measurements you need and how to cut the fabric. The issue with using an online circle skirt calculator for this length of skirt is it will tell you that you do not have enough fabric to cut the skirt out - this is not true, but you do need to cut out more than one piece. You need to cut a front and a back and a waistband.

The calculator does give you the radius that you need for your type of skirt. I used this to help me check that I had enough fabric and could fit the front across the width of the unfolded fabric. As this fabric is 150cm wide, it fits well.

I spread the fabric out on our laminated floor which is part of the issue I had. The fabric moved around a lot, resulting in rather uneven cutting. If I were cutting smaller pieces for a smaller project I would use tissue paper to prevent the fabric slipping or a gelatin soak. For this project I should have cut out on my carpeted floor as it would have prevented the shifting, but it is a nightmare to cut on.

I used tailors chalk to mark the pieces directly onto the fabric. I also interfaced the whole of the straight waistband to give enough structure to hold the weight of the skirt. I stay stitched the top of the skirt pieces to prevent them from stretching out and interfaced where the zip was going to be inserted. I only had a green concealed zip in my stash, but as I always use the Kenneth King method I was happy to use this. At some point, I’ll use a bit of black nail polish on the pull so it blends in.

Unfortunately midway through this project I managed to break my overlocker - not sewing this, but it did mean I had to wait almost a week until I managed to get it sorted. Shout out to Ian at The Sewing Machine Guy in Ashington for getting it back to me in super quick time.

Once it was fixed, I finished sewing the skirt up and then hung it up for a few days. As part of the skirt is on the bias, it stretches out and can be much longer than the seams, which are cut on the straight grain. Once it had time to relax, I trimmed it level and sewed the hem using a baby hem method. I find this is perfect for heavily curved hems on very light fabrics. A good press at the end, meant that it hangs nicely. When wearing this it is slightly translucent and needs an underskirt/ leggings underneath. I hadn’t realised this as I made it or I would have added a lining. But you might want to consider that if using this fabric.

This type of skirt is flowy and ideal for the warmer weather I hope we’ll be getting soon. This is going to have to wait a few weeks for it to warm up though before it gets much wear as it’s flipping freezing right now!!!!!

New Year New PJ's

2024-01-07T12:42:00.000+00:00

When I originally saw this fabric I had thought that I would make the Solina Dress from Named Clothing’s Breaking the Pattern book.

However when it arrived I was just not feeling it - I think the pattern was just a bit too busy for that dress and it would have been too much.

As the fabric arrived just before Christmas and I had begun to notice the threadbare nature of some of my PJ’s I decided that this fabric

would make a cool set of nightwear. The smooth cotton sateen with a touch of stretch is a perfect luxury fabric and feels amazing against

the skin - almost like silk! What could be better for nightwear?

I scoured my stash of Burdastyle magazines for an appropriate top and found one in the January issue from 2017.

This top required piping - I didn’t have any, and once I had time to sew it was the Christmas break and my local haberdashery

was shut for the holidays. Being the impatient sort I am - I decided to use a flat ‘piping’. In other words - self made bias tape from some

white cotton sateen in my stash, without any piping cord in it. This was a mistake as it is incredibly tricky to make sure you have an even,

but tiny amount of the trim showing. Piping would have been easier.

The pattern itself is well drafted and I know that I can cut a size 38 in Burda and it will fit. This pattern came with more detailed instructions.

I followed them and wished I hadn’t. Some of the finishing techniques left a lot to be desired and there were some clunky joins that

I’m not that happy about! But Hey, apart from the slightly uneven trim - it’s only me that will see the bits I’m not happy with!

The PJ bottoms were self drafted and I used the same pattern as the green drill cargo trousers I made in the summer,

but without the drawstring or the patch pockets. I did keep the hip pockets though. I make the elastic waist just a little looser for evening

and sleep comfort.

I think these look classy and I can feel comfortable and stylish when lounging around at home in the evenings now.

It’s just a shame I didn’t have them completed in time for the holiday period, when lounging around is the perfect thing to do!

This was my most successful PJ set made (i’ve only made one set before - for my daughter). It’s not something I think about making often,

which is why most of my PJ’s are threadbare. It certainly won’t be the last pair I make. But it was quite involved and did need a lot of

concentration and accuracy to get a good finish.

Here’s to chilling out in your PJ’s!

Revisited Renfrew

2023-12-15T18:00:00.001+00:00

Many years ago, when I first started sewing I bought the Renfrew top by Sewaholic Patterns. At the time it was one of the top Indie pattern companies and a great beginner pattern for knits. Perfect for a newbie, as I was at the time.

Drafted for pear-shaped figures I thought it would be perfect for me. Back then I made the pattern - it was easy to follow and the results were good. BUT it didn’t really fit me. I could sew, but I had no idea about fitting. It was a friend who was a pattern cutter who advised me on making improvements to the pattern.

My first attempt fit well everywhere apart from the shoulders. I may be pear-shaped, but I still have wide shoulders and it’s forever an issue when I buy RTW knit tops. My friend had advised me to widen the shoulders and showed me how to do this without altering the armscye. I added 1.5cm to the shoulder - which is quite a lot. I never made the pattern again until this last weekend.

When this knit arrived from Minerva I knew that it would make a perfect long-sleeve base layer. The fabric is smooth and feels amazing against the skin. It has a good amount of stretch, but behaves pretty well - although it does curl at the edges quite a bit. I prewashed it and set to work.

I had forgotten that I’d already altered the pattern to lengthen the sleeves and sort out the shoulder issue. I checked the pattern pieces against my go-to long-sleeve knit pattern and it was close, so I got straight on with it.

I omitted the bottom band and added a slight curve to the hem. I also shortened the neckband by an inch or so as this fabric was much stretchier than the one I used in the past and I did not want a gaping neckline. I did the neckline straight after sewing the front and back together. I thought it would be simple, but I rushed it and ended up with a lot of puckers. Carefully unpicking the neckband took some time, but it was worth it as the finish is pretty good. I just used a zigzag stitch to top stitch it down.

The rest of the top came together very smoothly and I am so glad of a nice long-sleeved base layer to wear during the cooler months. I know the stripes don't always show up well in photographs but this is a navy and pale blue narrow stripe. I think it will be perfect with my dungarees and pinafore dresses.

One word on fabric requirements. I had about 2m of this fabric, which is just about what the pattern calls for. However, with some careful placement, you can make it out of less. I think I have enough for another t-shirt. I just need to dig out the pattern that I will use.

Apologies for the blurry photos - time for a new phone I think!

Crash!

2023-12-08T17:00:00.001+00:00

If you’ve followed my sewing journey for the last couple of years you will have seen me sew items suitable for rollerskating in. I started skating two years ago and love it. First I started on the flat and my local prom, but then I discovered park skating and have begun to enjoy throwing myself down ramps.

A year ago I had a nasty fall on the top of a ramp and landed with my coccyx on the coping (metal bar at the top of a half-pipe). It took a few weeks to heal and since then I have been skating with impact shorts on - also known as bum pads and crash pants. These are popular in board sports and ski/ snowboard sports. I got a pair from Facebook marketplace that was a little big, but they do fit well over leggings or skinny jeans. I wanted some that were more slimline to wear under my jeans, leggings and shorts.

I have done some reading into impact materials and discovered that a material called D30 is an impact-reducing material, that is often used in impact shorts for sportswear. It hardens on impact and then softens. However, the shorts with this in are very spenny! And you can’t just buy sheets of it, which is a shame.

I scored some junior impact shorts for £10 second-hand. I could get them on but they were tight!!!! I decided to try and make my own, using the padded sections from the ones I bought.

I started with a base leggings/ shorts pattern. For this I used the Ninja leggings from 5 out 4 patterns and cut the size small, grading to XS at the waist. I had made them before in S/M and there were a tiny bit too big. I used the Matt Activewear fabric as it has good stretch and recovery. I sewed the lot on my Pfaff, using a zigzag for the seam construction and creating a faux cover stitch effect by sewing the seam allowances down using an overlock stitch. The seams are external so that friction is reduced on the inside of the leggings.

Once I had the shorts made. I needed to get the protective pads in the correct place. I managed to pin in the hip pads and coccyx protection myself and then zigzagged them into place, using a zipper foot to get as close to the D30 Material as I could. The small pads that sit on the buttocks were harder to place and I had to get my hubby to help me position them and pin them before sewing them in.

I did consider adding an elastic waistband to them but I found that the high rise and fabric band is actually enough and they stay up very well.

I have seen some very stylish crash shorts with lovely fabric on the outside and I considered making an outer layer to the shorts to hide the pads. However, keeping these as a single layer reduces the bulk and gives me way more options. I can wear under my jeans and skirts and also under leggings. I used the remaining fabric to make a full-length pair of Ninjas. I can wear these over the top as you can see in the photographs, but they are also great to wear for my yoga or Pilates sessions. The fabric has such a good recovery and coverage I love these. I think I might not ever buy leggings again.

The vest top is the Itch to Stitch Lago tank sewn up in the Minerva exclusive Dancing Lights french terry fabric. I also made full length leggings.

Waste Not Want Not Jeans

2023-12-01T18:00:00.001+00:00

I love an upcycled project. and wearables ones are the best. Back in late August my son decided that he was getting rid of a couple of pairs of jeans. Before he threw them in the bin, I rescued them and examined the quality of the denim. The button area on the waistbands had gone and the zips were damaged. but all in all the fabric was in decent condition.

I carefully unpicked and took them apart. I intended to reuse as much of the fabric as I could. One of the waistbands was long enough for me to use of I cut away the damaged section. I reused the pockets and the belt loops.

The legs were disassembled from the inside, leaving the outer seams in tact. I used these leg sections to cut the front and back legs from.

I had to piece fabric to have enough for some of the smaller sections -such as the yoke and I added length to the legs in the same manner.

The denim was a stretch fabric and perfect quality for the Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns. Having made these a few times before The construction was very quick and I did all the top stitching in regular thread, which meant no swapping of machines or thread on this one.

The pocket bags are made from some Superman fabric that my hubby had for a project earlier in the year. I know the photos aren't great. The light wasn't good when I was taking them and my phone is old!!!!

These have already been worn several times and I have made a small win in the zero waste fashion stakes. Everything used was from my stash or was off cuts. I needed new jeans and here we are.

Second Hoodie

2023-11-17T17:00:00.001+00:00

Many, Many, Many years ago a friend passed on some clothes for my boys. The selection included a blue hoodie, which my elder son wore until he was about 14, and then grew out of it. My younger son wouldn’t wear it. So I did! It was a great fit and I didn’t have a zip-up hoodie. Over the years I have worn it a lot, to the point where it is stained and threadbare. And not much use other than gardening and DIY.

I decided it was time to make a replacement. I decided it should be lightweight and opted for French terry in a duck egg colour rather than heavier sweatshirting. I used my pinwheel to trace around the seams, which meant I could leave the original garment intact and continue to wear it until it actually falls to bits!

Once I had traced all the pieces I checked the measurements and trued up the seamlines before adding seam allowances. I weighted my pattern pieces to prevent the fabric from curling as I cut and cut all the pieces out.

The French terry has slightly less stretch crosswise compared with lengthwise, which meant that the zip opening really needed to be interfaced to ensure the zip went in without any puckers.
I initially used a stretch interfacing, but it was too lightweight and I ended up adding another layer of lightweight stable iron on interfacing. I should also have added this to the edge of the pocket that would also be caught in the zip as this did pucker a little.

I used a jersey needle and sewed the garment together with a narrow zig-zag, the edges were then overlocked for a neat finish. I did not have any matching ribbing for the hem band and cuffs. I originally cut these on the cross-grain at 90% width, but there was not enough stretch in the fabric for them to fit without causing puckers. I re-cut these pieces lengthwise and they went in with no issues.

The hood is self-lined and buttonholes are used to provide the exit points for the drawstring for the hood. I also decided to bind the inside neck edge to give a clean and neat finish, unfortunately, I didn’t have any cream jersey, so it ended up being white - it does give a nice neat finish though.

I hope this lasts as long as the original. It was on my back as soon as I had finished it. I’m already loving it!!!!!

Long Shirt

2023-10-27T17:00:00.001+01:00

This is one of those patterns that I have had on my ‘to make’ list for quite some time.
Since 2012 in fact. It’s pattern 117 from the 04/2012 issue of Burdastyle Magazine.

It’s a tunic-length shirt with a gathered flounce at the back. So it’s business in the front and party in the back. I’ll put it out there that it needs a much thicker belt - I’m going to make an obi style one to go with it and I think it will look fab with my pinstriped waistcoat. I also think it would benefit from being worn with slim trousers or leggings and a high heel. The length does shorten my already short legs!!!!! And accentuating the waist more will help balance my long torso. However, styling issues aside this is an absolute winner, mainly down to the fabric.

The fabric is a stable cotton sateen, which I have heard referred to as the dressmaker’s shirting, and I can see why. The hand of the fabric is smooth and silky to the touch. It’s light but keeps its shape and is a perfect transitional fabric. Light enough for cooler summer days and perfect for spring and autumn. I think you all owe me a huge shoutout today. It was the first time I wore this to work. I’m an art teacher and today involved clay, 3D modelling, acrylic paint, lino printing, painting and ink drawing and I still came home with this shirt clean - not sure how!

I love the weave on this fabric, it adds to the feel of luxury. It sews and presses beautifully, but I do recommend using a microtex needle to avoid any unwanted puckers.

As with most Burdastyle magazine patterns the instructions are minimal; for most patterns, I don’t use them. I normally cut a size 38, but for this shirt, I went down to the size 36 and I’m glad I did - the 38 would have been too big. The collar and cuffs and the top part of the back ‘skirt’ section are interfaced with iron-on interfacing. This is to support the weight of the ruffles, and it does pull back a little here, so it’s definitely needed. The collar is a flat collar designed to be worn open at the neck. I’m not a huge fan of this collar style and prefer a proper shirt collar, but I quite like it here.

I didn’t make any alterations for the main body, but I did flatten the sleeve cap and widen the sleeve a little as the original was very slim and I have wider biceps. The hem was sewn using a 3 step baby hem method, which I love to use on curved hems or fine fabric as it gives a nice flat finish.

I think this would make a good shirt to wear over the top of a slip dress or beach wear as it’s so light and airy. Here’s waiting for my holiday to arrive!

Traveller Trousers

2023-10-06T17:00:00.001+01:00

After my last make, which I love, I decided to try similar shape trousers, but with some unusual features. These are made from a pattern from the Burdastyle Magazine from a few years ago and are named the traveller trousers. I thought they'd be perfect in this purple linen. The sample in the magazine looked like it was made in a similar weight fabric to linen, so I went ahead with these.

Prior to making these, I prewashed the fabric as linen can sometimes shrink a little on its first wash and it always seems to have a nicer hand once it’s been laundered. I also carefully measured the pattern pieces to determine which size to make.

The illustration seems to imply these are a very loose fit, but the magazine photos looked quite snug. I did not want snug trousers! I usually cut a size 38 in Burdatyle, but I’m aware that my hips are at least a size 40 right now, mostly down to skating developing my thighs and butt!!!!

I ended up tracing the 42 leg, grading to 40 at the high hip and waist - I should have gone for the 38 at the waist!!!!!! There are lots of adjustment seams, but due to the construction methods, the back waistband is trickier to adjust once sewn.

The pattern features unusual seaming and pockets. There is a side insert that has two pockets, one at hip level and a deeper one at the thigh. The inserts then curve to a point at mid-calf where the front and back legs join. This pocket insert makes this at least an intermediate make and I wouldn’t advise it for beginners. The front has a fly and ties that are secured into the side seam of the waistband and run through the waistband as a channel, popping out through buttonholes.

It’s a very interesting design and was nice to sew in this fabric. I’m still in two minds about it and I think I should have graded to a smaller waist size. I ended up adding some elastic into the back waist, which is less than ideal to accommodate my sizing error. I do like the fit on the hip and legs though and this is a great one for travelling - It’d definitely going in my holiday suitcase. I just wish I’d taken a little more time to get the waistband fit right - hey but you live and learn and I made it work.

Going Green

2023-09-17T17:20:00.007+01:00

I have had a few projects in mind that required drill fabric. When Minerva offered me the chance to review this cotton drill, I made those projects a reality. First up was a utility kilt for my husband.

Last year he bought a bright blue one last year, thinking it was a little darker than it was. Of course, when it arrived I studied the construction and announced that I could make him one, and make it better - TBH it was very crudely made!

I asked him what he liked about it and what he didn’t. He announced that although he liked the pockets, the loosely attached one was annoying. So I went for a welt pocket on the back and D rings added to the belt loops so an additional pocket/ bag could be added if required. He also asked for a slightly longer length.

The purchased one had all the pleats stitched down in order to prevent them from falling out and this is wise in this type of fabric. I used the basic measurement of the original one to guide my making of the green drill one. This fabric is a little lighter than the original and needed some interfacing in the waistband.

I started with the centre back of the skirt. Each half was measured and the fabric was cut to length following the grain. I halved the fabric on the cross grain and used about 3m of length. This was less than I thought (look out for my next make!). The pieces were joined to make a long 6m by 70cm strip.

The hem was created first, using a double fold to encase raw edges. This was then pinned into pleats, pressed down and stitched in the front and reverse of the fabric. The original had some grading in towards the waist, but as my hubby has narrower hips than the waist I kept the skirt straight. The top 15cm of each pleat was stitched down to create a yoke effect.

I then added a single welt pocket on the back. Making this nice and deep as he has a habit of losing things from them falling out of pockets! The apron pieces at the front were temporarily pinned to approximately the correct width while the waistband was made.

The waistband included buckle straps at each end, Belt loops anchored in the seam and a couple of button holes to thread the inner strap through to allow it to be fastened on the outside. Once the length was checked the inner waistband was added and it was top stitched in place. The belt loops were secured and an additional strap was added to the top of the skirt to enable the hip to be adjusted.

The belt loops were added at the correct place and I used 5mm eyelets in the holes.

The fabric is perfect for a lighter-weight utility kilt for the warmer months. It was a joy to sew with as it pressed really well and kept its shape - perfect for pleats. It also didn’t stretch out too much when sewing and was beautifully stable.

I just need to add the removable pocket bag, but I’m still waiting for the hardware to arrive. My hubby is loving rocking this and it will also go well with the waistcoat I made him last year as part of his punk suit.

The second make from the bottle green cotton drill is a pair of cargo trousers. I have been loving the cargo pants trend, but I was struggling to find a pattern that suited my needs so I drafted my own.

I had just less than 2m of the fabric left after making the utility kilt. Perfect for a pair of trousers!

Most of the patterns I had seen for cargo trousers were fitted waistbands and wide legs. While I love that aesthetic I wanted something more casual. My aim was to create a relaxed fit with a slight balloon shape and be ankle grazing. I wanted pockets and an elastic waist with a drawcord.

When the cotton drill first arrived I thought it might be a little too stiff, but once it was washed it softened up really well, while still keeping a crisp pressed edge, which made these a dream to sew.

I had never drafted and sewn up a pattern without checking it and doing at least 3 toiles. However, I was confident that my drafting was good I decided to take a risk and go for it!

I used Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich. I drafted the easy-fitting trousers and used my measurements, rather than relying on the standard sizes. These are trousers designed to be made into baggy pants or dungarees.

Once I had the draft I traced the block, lowering the waist by 4cm and shortening the length to be at the high ankle. I added a slight balloon length to the side seams and tapered the ankle by a couple of centimetres. I then measured the waist seam before cutting a waistband. Here I nearly made an error. As I’m not a standard size - my hips are much bigger than my waist - I realised that the waist was not quite big enough for my hips. Not an issue if you are adding a zip but a big issue if the trousers are pulled on. I widened the waist seam by 1cm both front and back with equated to a 4cm increase, which was enough to get these over my butt.

I walked the seams and trued all the measurements, constructed slanted hip pockets and drafted a back patch pocket and an inverted pleat pocket and flap.

I interfaced the pocket flap and buttonholes with some lightweight interfacing. The fabric didn’t need anything in the waist due to it being elasticated. The wide elastic was stitched in place to stop it twisting in the casing and a cord threaded through the buttonholes.

I was actually pleasantly surprised with these. I expected there to be several issues that would need to be sorted, but they are pretty much as I intended. I haven't drafted anything in ages. I think I might try it again soon. Meanwhile, I have a cool pair of cargo trousers that has taken me through cooler summer days and into the autumn.

Purple Haze

2023-04-21T17:31:00.001+01:00

I have had it in mind to make a velvet suit for years and when I saw this purple cotton velvet I knew it would be a perfect choice. The only question was what style to go for. I considered a biker style jacket, puff sleeve jacket but then settled on this more fitted style with a curved front hem and patch pockets. You'll notice that there are not any pockets on this - that’s because I didn’t like the look of them when I pinned them on and decided to leave them off.

I had initially planned to make wide trousers, but as this fabric is relatively narrow, that would have meant a lot more length was needed and you do tend to end up with a lot of waste fabric in these situations. So I opted for slim-leg trousers, but not too fitted as this fabric has no stretch.

The fabric is glorious but quite delicate. As it is cotton velvet, it can be very easy to fray on the edges along the selvedge edge. It’s also worth overlocking it before prewashing to prevent any unnecessary fraying of the cut edge. It does wash beautifully and presses well. I recommend using a towel against the pile side of the fabric to prevent it becoming flattened during pressing. I also used a press cloth on the reverse.

It is super important to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction so that the ‘nap’ or pile of the fabric lays the same way, as it can appear to be a slightly different tone otherwise. This will require more fabric. For this project, I cut all the pieces in a single layer. It takes longer, but it stops the fabric shifting and allows you to make the best use of pattern placement to avoid wastage. The Jacket and trousers used a total of 4.5m of this fabric and I had a square of about 30cm square left.

Both of the patterns I used were from my stash of Burdastyle Magazines. I haven’t made either before and didn’t make a toile before sewing up. I usually sew a size 38 in Burda and sometimes grade to a 40 at the hip. For this make I made a straight size 38 for the jacket and a size 40 for the trousers, grading to 38 and the waist - I didn’t make any other changes to the pattern.

I think I could have sized down the body of the jacket as it does feel quite big across the bust. I did use some structural elements to support the fabric and improve the fit. The front of the jacket and the upper back is interfaced with a traditional hair canvas and the seems are catch stitched down to create a secure flat seam. An additional layer of batting is added to the upper chest and I used layers of batting from my stash to construct the shoulder pads. This allowed me to tailor the height exactly to what I needed.

I used traditional pad stitching to help shape the collar and lapel. This technique doesn’t work quite as well on this fabric as it does on wool, but it does help. I decided to use bound buttonholes and instantly regretted it. On this fabric, bigger buttonholes would work better in this technique, but the style of the jacket wouldn’t support it. I also felt they were too far from the edge. However, these are small points. The jacket is fully lined with pale pink satin, which I like with the purple velvet. I had enough left from a previous project but had to piece a couple of sections. The instructions for lining the jacket were rather clunky and I’m still not 100% convinced I like the double back vents. I’m going to let these simmer for a bit and decide if I like them or not. I can always sew them closed if I decide they are not for me.

Due to the amount of hand stitching the jacket has taken ages, and family issues have also impacted life recently, so It was a relief when the trousers came together in just a few hours of sewing. In my rush to get them finished, I didn’t really do any fitting and mock-up. Instead, I sewed the side seams with a long basting stitch to allow me to check the fit. I was happy with the outcome. I know they could be more fitted, but I need to be able to sit, walk and bend in them, so I actually like how they have turned out. I didn’t follow any instructions for constructing these as the construction of trousers is pretty straightforward once you’ve made a few pairs! I did make sure the pocket bags were secured in the centre front seam as I can’t stand flappy pockets!!! I used the last of the pink satin for this.

The waistband is interfaced with a firm iron-on interfacing and the inside is hand stitched as top stitching on this fabric can be rather distracting.
Overall I’m pleased with how these turned out. I think as a suit it might get an airing next winter in the run-up to Christmas, but as separates, this will be a lot more versatile. I already have outfits planned for the jacket!

I had to wait until a bright day, as this fabric is almost as difficult as black to photograph!

Red Jeans

2023-04-14T17:31:00.001+01:00

Forever I have wanted red jeans. These were not the jeans I imagined when I ordered this fabric but I still love them!!!!!
I am a roller skater and as such clothing that has some stretch and is really close fitting is ideal for my sport. It means I can pop my protective gear over the top and not have fabric bunching up underneath knee pads and crash shorts. I had fully imagined this fabric being a pair of slim-fitting Ginger jeans. However, I made an error in not checking the stretch percentage of this fabric. I knew this denim was a stretch fabric, but it did not have enough stretch for the ginger jeans pattern, so I ended up having a rethink. In my mind, I was aiming to create some wide-leg cargo-style jeans, but I couldn’t decide on the style of patch pockets to use and just ended up making wide-legged jeans - LONG ones.

I often wear my jeans with my platform Doc Marten boots and they can feel a little short, so for this make, I went for super long trousers. I had ordered 2m of the denim as that is what I’d have needed for the Ginger jeans, but I very quickly realised that I was going to struggle to get wide, long trousers out of 2m, I had to employ a bit of creative thinking.

The pattern I had decided to use was the same culotte pattern I used for my last make - it was to hand and I knew it fit and I could just lengthen the pieces. However, I just couldn’t get the pattern pieces to fit side by side on the fabric as it was not quite wide enough and the length I had was too short to place them in a staggered manner, also I find this leaves you with a lot of leftover fabric! I decided that I could afford to narrow the pieces and folded out 1cm on all the leg pieces - losing a total of 4 cm width. I figured that as the fabric had some stretch, and 1.5cm seam allowances I could make this work and adjust the seams if necessary. I was right up to the selvedge edge on some pieces, but these are mostly hidden in the seams of by topstitching. After a lot of head scratching, pattern tetris and careful cutting out I had my pattern pieces all sorted. The jeans came together quickly and I used some cotton poplin for the pocket bags. I even had just enough fabric left to create two back pockets. As I often do when sewing jeans I set up both of my machines so that I can have the top stitching thread on my Bernina and construct the garment on my Pfaff. I find it saves time in the long run.

I am actually very pleased with how these have turned out, despite it being a different make to the one I planned. However at the moment, I do feel I am dressing like a small child in all the primary colours as I’ve worn them with my cropped blue hoodie. They are quite lightweight and I think as the weather warms I might end up wearing these a little more during the summer.

Dancing lights

2023-04-07T17:33:00.001+01:00

I made this just before Christmas for Minerva Brand Ambassadors. The fabric is the new Minerva range Dancing Lights Loop back french terry. I love this print and that It’s bright and colourful without it being too in your face!
What with the cost of living crisis here in the UK and the freezing temperatures we've been having, I knew that this would have to be a long sleeve top to keep me warm over the winter months. I needed something to layer up and provide a good layer over the winter.

I love a good roll-neck top and have had the Monroe Turtleneck pattern from Tessuti in my stash for a while. I’ve never sewn this up before and wasn’t sure what it would turn out like. But safe to say since finishing it a week ago It has been worn and washed multiple times.

This fabric is perfect for a top like this. I didn’t find it quite as stretchy as I thought it would be but as this top is quite boxy it was not an issue. The fabric is soft and cosy but hasn’t stretched out much when sewing. It washes and wears beautifully and is a dream to sew. I found the edges didn’t curl much, which can be an issue with this type of fabric and it was easy to keep the edges aligned. I constructed this with a narrow zigzag stitch and overlocked seams. I used a stretch needle. The hems were simply turned and zigzagged down.

This is a pretty quick make. The top consists of a front, back, sleeves and collar and due to the boxy design is a very simple sew - suitable for beginners. The top comes in 3 sizes and this is the smallest. The neck is quite tight to pull on over my head - and I have a small head! However, once it’s on it is very comfortable. I also really like the narrow sleeves. These make it easy to layer up and as a skater, I know that I can get my protective gear over the top. I think if I made it again I’d make it a bit longer. It’s OK tucked in my high-waisted jeans, but not so good with lower-cut ones.

I have already styled this with different looks. As in the photos with my recycled denim culottes, with my black skinny Ginger Jeans and underneath my TAL apron dress. It would look fantastic under a pair of dungarees.

I think this might just be a winter/ spring staple. I might even make some more!

Screen printed shirt

2023-03-31T17:41:00.001+01:00

To accompany my hubby’s 3 piece punk-inspired suit he asked me to make him a punk-inspired white shirt. He had very, very clear ideas about what he wanted! The shirt had to be longer at the back, so it can hang out of the trousers, but be able to be tucked in at the front. Business at the front, party at the back. He also wanted the shirt to have a pop-over placket (not that he used that term).

We had several discussions about what sort of neckline he wanted and we toyed with the idea of a pussy-bow style, and a more high-necked regency style. Both of which we dismissed as he does not have a long neck and his beard would just get in the way of the shirt collar anyway. Finally, we opted for a grandad-style collar. This works really well with the suit, and my hubby’s styling, not to mention the nod to a clerical collar (He is a Baptist minister and was preaching at the wedding).

The shirt was drafted, using one he had, that was a good fit as a starting point and the design alterations added in. I used the pop-over placket pattern piece from the Kalle shirt and just lengthened it. I did forget to reverse it, so it buttons up as a woman’s shirt would. He’s not bothered by that, I think he just felt it was a bit strange buttoning it up the other way.

The shirt was constructed using the burrito method to enclose the raw edges of the yoke. The hem was finished with a bias facing, which in hindsight I’d have been better doing a baby hem, due to the curvature at the sides.

To add to the punk vibe of the shirt we added some appliqued design elements. A few months ago we bought a screen printing kit from Hunt the Moon and used it to create a design. The Text is a section of a letter written by Thomas Helwys, a baptist minister who was imprisoned by James I, who did not approve of his desire to separate church and state. He died in 1616 aged 40 in Newgate prison. The second screen print was made by using different letters from the piece by Helwys to spell the word ‘Dissent’. Both designs were printed on pieces of white cotton in blue ink, fixed by ironing and stitched into place - the edges were lightly frayed. The shirt was finished with blue buttons that matched the suit.

My hubby has already commissioned me to make more shirts, now he has a pattern that fits really well. I’ll just have to adjust the length and remember to swap the button packet to the other side!

Heyday Dungas - a review

2023-03-26T16:27:00.006+01:00

This is one of those makes that has been on my radar to make forever. I have loved seeing the Lucy and Yak style dungarees that my friends have worn and fancied having a go at making some in a simialr style.

The pattern is the Heyday Dungarees by Waves and Wild (formally Made by Jack's Mum). The pattern is is simple and there are no zips or buttons to install, making this a super easy make for beginners. You do need to be confident sewing through multiple layers of fabric though.

The fabric is an 8 wale cotton corduroy from Minerva and I bought just over two metres for the size medium. I think this ois the perfect weight for this type of make and not too thick.

The sizing is easy to understand and clear guidance is given for the height this is drafted for and how to adjust for differeing heights. I was in two minds about choosing between the small and medium sizes, so I printed the pattern with both lines, but ended up going for the medium. The fit is good on a stable woven, but if I had chosen a fabric with stretch the small would have been a better option.

The instructions are very clear and easy to follow on this pattern and there are two different options for fastenings - loops or buttons. I opted for the loops.

The construction means that all the edges are concealed on the hems and facings and seams are neatened by overlocker and then top stitched. I took my time with this, but it was still a quick make. It would have been even quicker if I hadn't have made a mistake with the pockets and cut a pair upside down, resulting in the nap being the wrong way and the colour looking odd - moral of this story is don't cut out in poor light! I removed them and cut a replacement pair, which was well worth it as now they look fab.

I can't wait to wear these and I hope they might be a summer staple - not to mention perfect skatewear!

Punk'd

2023-03-26T16:07:00.002+01:00

This has got to be the biggest sewing project I have ever undertaken. My hubby asked me to make his outfit for a wedding that we attended this weekend and he was very particular about what he wanted. The design process started months ago when he outlined the type of coat/ jacket he wanted. I began to think about drafting what was required. I tried a couple of other options but eventually ended up using Vogue 1853, you can read all about the pattern and changes that I made to it here.

The suit had to have a punk vibe and was heavily influenced by the work of Vivienne Westwood during the 70’s and 80’s. My hubby wanted bondage-style trousers and braces, a waistcoat and long jacket/ coat, plus a punk-inspired shirt, which you can read about here.

As this was to be worn at a wedding, the concept was that the straps and braces on the trousers and the back of the shirt would not be visible under the coat/ jacket, but once the coat was removed they would be very obvious. As my hubby was preaching at the wedding It was important to him that his suit didn’t distract anyone, whilst being completely and uniquely him! Definitely business at the front and party in the back!

The waistcoat is a standard classic waistcoat, drafted from the instructions in Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. I realised my error once it was drafted as I had used the chest measurement - which for most would be fine, but I should have used the waist measurement for my hubby. I had to make some alterations to the pattern but made a toile to ensure the fit was good. It was a fairly simple construction. As with the coat, I interfaced the front pieces fully and used heavier interfacing for the facing. This worked very well for this fabric. The back and lining were cut in the same navy poly charmeuse that I used to line the coat with.

The trousers were drafted by using a rub-off method from a pair of well-fitting trousers that had jeans styling. I think the back would benefit from being reduced a bit more. This wasn’t evident in the toile, but they are a little loose above the bottom. I constructed these in the same way that I would make a pair of jeans. The back pockets are patch pockets and the front ones are curved. I did line the trousers to the knee, attaching the lining to the waist and fly, which gave a nice neat finish. If I did this again I would probably underline the front and back pieces before putting the pants together! As this would make these sections more stable and support the fabric more.

The bondage straps are removable and secured to the trousers by D-rings at the side seams. There is also an adjustable strap at the centre back, also tightened by D-rings. Buttons were added next to the centre back and front belt loops so that braces can be attached.

I tried to match the pattern, where possible and I’m happy with the results. My hubby is certainly very happy and received lots of positive comments about his suit at the wedding on Saturday. Although the drafting and making of these items have taken quite a bit of thought and effort. I now have patterns that fit my husband and I can adapt them to suit what he might need in the future. I love this punk styling and it’s probably the only suit he’s ever had that completely sums him up. This is John in his element!

Hot Minute and Cool Culottes

2023-02-05T13:16:00.000+00:00

Wow, it's been a hot minute since I posted anything on my neglected blog!!!! I am waaaay behind with documenting my makes and thought it was about time I rectified the situation.

So here I am back with a co-ordinating make for me and my hubby. We both wanted culottes and I recieved this lovely poly/ viscose/ elastane suiting from Minerva before Christmas and set about making us matching culottes - no we are not sad enough to wear them at the same time. You can read the full details and see the fabric over on Minerva - but there are a few more photos here to give you more of a feel for the makes.

John's culottes were self drafted and took rather a lot of work to get the right shape and fulness that he wanted, but we got there in the end. My culottes and waistcoat are both Burdastyle Magazine patterns. I have made the culottes many times before and they are a go to pattern. The waistcoat was a new pattern to me and is cropped and as drafted very low cut. I did adapt this to make sure it was a little more modest.

I loved this fabric -and I'm not just saying that because i recieved it as part of Minerva's ambassador programme. It's actually really nice and i'll be ordering more to make John more trousers and waistcoats. It's probably one of the nicest suiting fabrics I have sewn with. I have had some really bad experiences with suiting fabric in the past, but this is a lovely fabric.

Anyway, check out the photos here and read more on Minerva and hopefully I'll be back soon with another make.

Animal Glow Peppermint Playsuit hack

2022-08-10T15:15:00.001+01:00

I don't know if you are aware but Minerva have created their own range of exclusive fabrics and I was lucky enough to be given the chance to sew one of them up. This is the Minerva Exclusive Viscose Challis in Animal Glow print.

I excitedly waited weeks for this to arrive and was away when it finally came through the letterbox. I had much excitement as I opened the bag to discover this beautiful drapey fabric.
The fabric is a white substrate with the design printed on top. It is a fine challis with a lovely handle and drapes beautifully and doesn’t crease too much either. Perfect for the very hot weather we are having right now.

I decided weeks and weeks ago what I would make with this. In fact I had the idea last year and have just been waiting for the ideal fabric to do this in. I’m not really an animal print sort of girl, but when I saw this and in this colourway I knew it was a perfect match.

The pattern is a hacked version of the free Peppermint/ In the folds playsuit pattern. The pattern can be downloaded free from the Peppermint magazine website, but you can pay as you wish if you are able to support them.

I have made the playsuit before - in recycled jeans for my daughter. We are the same size so I knew it would be a good base. I cut a straight size C (could have actually gone with the B in this fabric). I lengthened and widened the legs so they were more like a palazzo pant leg and omitted the patch pockets. I figured that they wouldn’t work so well in such a light fabric. Instead, I added one inseam pocket on the opposite side to the zip.

Otherwise I kept the construction the same. I added interfacing to the straps and the facing and should really have added a strip to the top edge of the bodice as it did roll a bit, despite understitching it. This was easily solved by stitching the facing to the shell along the seam lines - essentially stitching in the ditch. I can’t even tell where the stitching is and I’m wearing it right
now.

I used the overlocker to neaten and finish all the seams and the hems are a 3 step baby hem, which is perfect on this fabric.

Viscose challis is notoriously shifty to cut and sew, but I found this really stable. It didn’t stretch out of shape at all during construction, but it is well worth stay stitching this type of fabric.

My top tips for working with viscose challis:
Overlock the edge of the fabric before pre-washing to prevent any shredding.
Don’t trim seam allowances too closely to avoid holes developing later.
Use a new microtex needle for sewing.
Use a light interfacing with some stretch on light fabrics such as this - it helps prevent bubbling of the fabric over time and still keeps the characteristics of the fabric while providing support.
I think I might just be wearing this a lot this week - without the t-shirt as it is so cool against the skin.

Vogue 1524 Review

2022-06-14T20:14:00.001+01:00

Hello, Hello everyone. I’m so pleased to be able to share this make with you all! This is a high-neck, open-backed jumpsuit from vogue patterns. I’ve had my eye on this one for a while. And when I got a wedding invite, I knew it would be the perfect opportunity to make this. I made it entirely out of cotton sateen with a slight stretch.

First up, the pattern - it’s V1524 and it is a great intermediate pattern. You really need to know how to construct a garment and deal with seams and raw edges as this pattern does not hold your hand. The instructions are adequate but brief. I first came unstuck with the welt pockets - I managed to sew the welts the wrong way and had to unpick them after I’d slashed open the pocket.

Hence they are not quite as neat as I would like - I’m used to using a different method and I didn’t find this one particularly satisfactory, It was quite fiddly. However, this was the only part of the construction that I didn’t really like. The bodice construction is quite unique but does result in a very neat finish, with all seams enclosed.

I cut a straight size 12 after comparing my measurements to the size chart. I added extra length to the trouser hem as I want to wear these with high heels and needed to ensure they were long enough. I’m glad I did as the extra 5 cm is perfect.

I added about 2cm to the bodice length at the bottom to allow me to fit my long torso. And that was about right. I also added some length to the back band as on my first draft it was just a little bit snug.

The fabric was a cotton sateen with slight stretch from Minerva. This pattern calls for a knit fabric for the bodice and a stable woven for the trousers so it was a bit of a risk cutting the whole thing from the same fabric. The bodice is self-lined and the pocket linings are some cotton lawn I had in my stash (these are something I’d change- I’m not happy about the finish on them).

The fabric was easy to sew and pressed well and had enough stretch to accommodate the bodice pattern, but I do feel a knit fabric would be more comfortable here. The stretch allows the trousers to be comfortable, but I think I really need a tiny bit more room at the hip.

I love that this fabric has a slight sheen that gives an elegant touch to the garment. It is a stunning design and very eyecatching. I really would like to have another go at this in a crepe/ knit combo.

I also inserted bra cups and attached them to the bodice lining, as there is no way you could wear a bra with this. I am having second thoughts about this as a wedding outfit, simply from a practical point of view. This might be quite tricky to get in and out of to go to the loo. Mostly due to the separating zipper at the top part of the bodice. I can just about manage it, but it’s not easy and I’m not sure it will be easy when I’ve had a glass of wine or two and using outside loos!

The pattern calls for a parachute-style buckle for the back band, instead, I opted for a 25mm silver Bikini clasp, which I think is a much better option. The trousers close with a centre-back invisible zipper. I think this is the first time I’ve used a back zip on trousers. So while this is a stunning garment and very elegant If you need an accessible pattern, this probably is not one for you. I need help doing this one up, so for anyone with mobility issues, this is not user-friendly with 3 different back fastenings.

The jury is still out as to whether I will wear this for the wedding or make something else. I suppose it will depend on how long it takes to make my husband's suit. That will be a project worth sharing - I hope

Scrap busting

2022-05-06T17:00:00.001+01:00

Sewing clothing creates loads of scrap fabrics. Periodically I purge my stash and make a quilt. It's a great way to use up small remnants of fabric.

I have just finished piecing together the top of this quilt. It is not perfect, some of the edges are a little bit off and not all the points meet, but I'm not making it for competion or show. It's just for home.

The top is made completely of sewing off cuts, some of which I have had for years. The 'batting' is a flannel sheet which came from my mother in law and the backing is made from an old quilt cover donated by my mum and dyed with Dylon dye gifted from my local buy nothing group. So this really is a re-use item. It will find it's home on our bed once it's completed.

It's all pinned together and quilting it is the next step. I'm keeping this one simple and just following the design lines of the quilt.

Cropped Hoodie

2022-04-29T17:00:00.001+01:00

As my latest obession is skating. I have been considering clothing that is suitable for skating in. During the Spring and Autumn. It can be quite cold, but once you get warmed up, you don't really need a coat, but a hoodie is perfect. I have a fab hoodie that I wear a lot in the winter, but it is long and doesn't really go with my high waist trousers and wide legged jeans. I also wanted something that would serve as a cover up if I wanted to wear a longer dress or skirt, that wouldn't make me look like a sack.

I decided to use the Assembly Line hoodie dress as a basis for this make. It's drafted for a woven, but it is loose enough to work with this stretch fabric. I've used this pattern multiple times and the bodice makes a great woven t shirt.

I didn't have to make very many changes. I did lengthen the bodice by about 3 cm and then added on the hem band, which I cut slightly shorter than the circumference of the top. I considered leaving it unfinished on the bottom hem and that would have worked too.

The only other change I made was to make a hood lining in the same fabric rather than just adding a facing and I think this works perfectly.

The fabric is a dream to work with for a stretch fabric it is nice and stable and doesn't roll too much. It presses well, although I do recommend a press cloth.

This was a super quick make and only took one afternoon to finish it, and I've already worn it out for skating on numerous occasions. Perfect for cool spring days when I would be too warm in a coat, but it's still too cool to wear just shirt sleeves.

I think this will be super versatile - it is great for skating due to the length, I think it could also work over the top of a dress as an extra layer and this colour is just fantastic.

Pattern Review: New Look 6299

2022-04-22T17:00:00.001+01:00

I love a fit and flare dress. So when Minerva offered me the chance to review New Look 6299, I jumped at it!
The pattern has princess seams and the option of cap sleeve or ¾ sleeves. There is a boat neckline or a shirt collar - or plain jewel neck if you prefer. There are optional godets that will add more swing to the skirt. The skirt length is just above knee length but could easily be shortened to tunic length or lengthened to suit your preferences.

Originally I planned to sew this in a range of different plaid fabrics I had in my stash - but they were mainly polyester and of different weights and very different colour and patterns combinations. Once I had cut them out I realised I hated the combination. I raided my stash and found some more of the waxed cotton that I used for this Kalle dress.

It was a bit of pattern Tetris and I did have to piece one of the side back panels to get everything out of the fabric I had.

I decided to make view A - which is the cap sleeve version with the collar and no godets. I decided that a full-on collar would be a bit much so I used the collar pattern piece to draft a mandarin style collar instead.
There is about 9cm ease on top of body measurements for this pattern. Which is common for the big 4 pattern companies. My measurements put me in a size 12/14, after looking at the finished garment measurements I cut a straight size 10.

I sewed it up without any adjustments but realised I could have actually made the size 8 and it would have been perfect. The 10 is a little loose in some areas, but not horrifically so. Once sewn I took a smidge off the front princess seams above the bust and a little just below for shaping. I also took in the side seams at the waist. I could have gone further with this, but due to the structure of the fabric I didn’t need to - it holds the shape well.

The sleeves had a lot of ease in the sleeve cap, more than was really necessary, and again due to the nature of the waxed fabric, this was quite tricky to ease in without any puckers.

I considered shortening the skirt on this to be tunic length but decided to leave it at the full length. I’m 171cm tall, so this will be just above knee length with a small hem. I kept the hem at 2.5cm.

The dress is constructed with a facing rather than a lining, I think a lining would be a better option. As this is a summer weight fabric I can get away without it. I think this pattern is a good basic dress pattern with lots of options. I think it could be stunning in a brocade, or cotton velvet. I may just make this up as a party dress for next Christmas in velvet, with a detachable collar so I can wear my bling jewellery with it. But for now, this was a stash buster of a project. I’m trying to reduce fabric waste, and I’ve certainly done that with this one.

Hoodie Banket

2022-04-15T17:00:00.001+01:00

It's been a while since I shared anything here. I'm still sewing up items on a regular basis but my production has somewhat slowed, so my next few posts will be sharing some of the makes that I haven't blogged about.

First up is the Hoodie Blanket that I made for my daughter as a Christmas present - yes - it was that long ago!!!! This has to be one of my favourite and also easiest makes of last year.
My daughter has discovered a love of dinosaurs in her later teenage years! To the point where she is considering getting a dinosaur tattoo (she hasn't as of yet)! So when I saw this beautiful dino fleece I just knew she would love something made in it.
I had planned to make my sister a Billy Wearable Blanket, which is a free pattern from Do It Yourself Better Club. www.doitbetteryourself.club/product/the-bill.../

I made that version up in a plain fleece that I bought from a local shop. So I knew that the pattern would work super well for this fabric. The Fleece from Minerva was way superior to the locally bought stuff. It was thicker and more even in texture. It sewed up better and didn’t cause my machine any issues.

I decided to sew up the longer version, my daughter is a student and her room is quite cool so, something cosy to snuggle is is a perfect option. She has also told me it will be great to wear when the fire alarms go off in the middle of the night - don’t you just love student accommodation?

I constructed this pretty much completely on the overlocker, with the exception of the hood and it’s lining which was made from some Jersey from my stash). The pattern calles for rib cuffing, but I couldn’t find a close enough match or anything that would perfectly constrast so they were made from self fabric and are fine. I did check that hands would fit through these as the fabric isn’t very stretchy. One thing to note is that sleeves are quite short. Bear that in mind if you have long limbs.

This has A LOT of ease. I sewed up the XS size and it has plenty of room. The pattern features a hood and a large kangaroo pocket. There are options to make this without the hood or as a fully lined version. It would be a great with a waterproof outer and a fleecy lining as a changing robe for outdoor watersports. Or made in towlling for a beach change/ coverup. However, we like snuggles and comfort and I can say that my daughter has worn this on heavy rotation over the winter months.

She was rather reticent to model for me - so instead she took the photos and I was the model. I did convince her to let me take a quick photo though.

New Skate Set Up

2021-12-18T14:54:00.001+00:00

I've well and truly caught the skating bug. When I was looking to get back into skating, back in March, I wanted to make sure I bought a good pair of skates that I wouldn't need to upgrade quickly. I bought the Chaya Jump 2 skates. These are designed with park skating in mind and while I didn't really intend to do park skating, I've found I really enjoy it and it's allowed me to make lots of new skate friends.

I'm really happy with my park skates on the whole. I do find that my feet get very, very hot in them as they are mostly synthetic, with this in mind I started considering a second pair. I knew I wanted a leather boot that would mould to my foot and then had to decide what style of skate I wanted.

I want to continue to enjoy park skating, do some jam (dance) skating, cruise the streets and give Roller Derby a try. My current skates suit the park, but the wheels are a little soft and I could do with harder ones, especially for the indoor park. I could also do with some slideblocks to enable me to progress in the skatepark. With some harder wheels my current skates would also do for basic roller derby training. so they are staying.

As for dance skating, my current skates are flat and for some of the moves I need my weight to be further over the toe so I knew I needed a boot with a heel. I considered the Bont Parkstar as it has a small internal heel, but ruled it out as I already had park skates. I started looking at Moxi Lolly skates, which are a similar price to the Bont, the Moonlight Roller - which is a bit cheaper and Luna skates, which were out of stock everywhere.

After doing some research I discovered Wifa Skates. Wifa are an Austrian Brand that have been making Ice figure skates since 1920. Recently they have developed boots suitable for rollerskating and the come in a range of lovely colours. The boots are firm but comfy and much more sturdy than the Moxi Lolly. You can buy the boots directly from Wifa and have the option of boot only or two different plate set ups that use a plate designed and made in Italy. I opted for the orange boot only. Since I ordered mine, you can now buy them from Roller Girl Gang and they have a full fitting stock in to try.

My plan was to take my boots with me when I visited my sister in London and visit Double Threat Skates to sort out a plate and have them mounted. However, due to the broken arm, we didn't go to London. Instead I called DTS and had a conversation about a suitable plate and plate mounting. I sent off my boots to them and they fitted my Bont Prodigy plates.

While they were away being mounted, I started to consider wheel options. I knew I needed something big and soft for outdoor skating and something harder for indoor. I managed to get a set of Moxi gummy wheels and bearings on facebook marketplace. These are 78a wheels, which means they are soft and will be great for rough terrain outside. I also bought some Grindstone Smokeshow wheels from Be Good Skates. These are harder at 92a and will be better for skating on smooth surfaces, especially indoor. I wanted something that will work for both skatepark and roller disco, and possibly roller derby. This will be my first time using a harder wheel, so i'll see how I get on.

The final touch is some coloured laces and new skate socks which I got from Roller Girl Gang. I just need to make a new skate leash for hanging them up and carrying them.

By the time they had arrived and were set up my arm was pretty much healed. Unfortunately the weather has taken a turn to the worse and I haven't had much of an opportunity to try them out. I managed a short blast along the prom, but then with Storm Arwen, lots of rain and dark cold nights I haven't been outside in them again. I did notice that the Moxi gummy wheels are brilliant outside, they are as soft as my Chaya wheels, but much bigger so made short work of the rough pavements. I only got to try the Smokeshow wheels on Thursday as I managed to get 1/2hr in the sports hall at work (normally there are loads of clubs on). Short video on insta. They slide a lot more than my other wheels, but I soon got used to them. I'm still getting used to the heeled skates as the weight distribution is different to a flat boot, but it does allow me to get much lower. Hoping to get out some more on these in the next few weeks.

My Heart Will Go On Dress

2021-12-12T10:12:00.000+00:00

I love a quirky fabric and when I saw this one by Little Johnny on Minerva I knew I needed to make a dress in it. The pattern is the Saraste dress from the book, Breaking the pattern by Named Clothing. I have made the sleeveless version of this dress a couple of times so I knew it fit pretty well.

However, after making the shirt version I noticed some strange pulling on the shoulders. I did a bit of investigating and made some alterations. I made a square shoulder adjustment, which meant raising the armhole by 2cm and adjusting the slope of the shoulder to match and a 1.5cm broad shoulder adjustment. I used a straight sleeve from the Solina dress from the same book. I also drafted my own inseam pockets - I mean a dress with pockets is defo the way forward and I miss having them in my other Saraste dresses.

I knew that matching the pattern would be important with this fabric, so that meant some careful cutting out. The repeat isn’t too big so 3m was ample to match the key areas. I worked hard to match the centre front on the button placket and the yoke on the back - I think I’ve done a pretty good job with those. It’s harder to match the princess seams, but I tried to keep the pattern flowing as much as possible here. I did not try to match the pattern on the skirt sections - as they are gathered It’s pretty impossible to see any mismatch and it would have taken yards and yards of fabric and I hate fabric waste!

I’ve dubbed this dress ’my heart will go on’ dress. The pattern is lots of lovely heart shapes and as someone who doesn’t often do florals, It fits well with my likes. It’s a beautiful smooth fabric, presses well, It doesn’t crease particularly. The photos were taken after a full day at work and it’s still fairly crease-free. I have already worn it a few times to work. I am a natural fabrics person and don’t enjoy sewing or wearing synthetics on the whole, so having a long sleeve cotton dress to wear during the cooler months is a bonus. It saves me shivering in my classroom when the heating isn’t on.

I had hoped to get some photos outside, but what with storm Arwen and then torrential rain the next weekend. It’s had to be in the evening when I got in from work - Hate the dark nights - bring on the long days and sunshine!