CrochetKitten.com

Faerie Ears

2013-05-15T15:14:00.002-04:00

When the first baby laughed for the first time, its laugh broke into a thousand pieces, and they all went skipping about, and that was the beginning of fairies. And now when every new baby is born its first laugh becomes a fairy. So there ought to be one fairy for every boy or girl. ~ JM Barrie

I believe in a world where the magic of childhood doesn't have to end just because the child grows up. It takes just a little bit of imagination to bring that magic back, like that found in our imaginative Faerie Ears.

Made with a simple pineapple motif, the silver wire holds the wings' shape. They are easy and fun to make, so anyone can get back in touch with their inner faerie.

Materials

15 yd 28g non-tarnish silver wire

Size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook

Wire cutters

Faerie Ears - make 2.

Ch 13.

Row 1. Ch 1; turn. Sc in second ch from hook and ea rem ch across. Ch 6; join with sl st in first sc to form Ear Loop (shaping will come later). 12 sc.

Row 2. Ch 1; turn. Sc in ea unworked ch across, sl st in next sc; leave rem sc unworked. 6 sc.

Row 3. Ch 1; turn. Sc2tog over first 2 sc, 2 dc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc. 6 st and 1 ch-2 sp.

Row 4. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc); turn. Skip first st, dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 st. 9 dc.

Row 5. Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch); turn. Skip first dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, dc in next dc; rep from * across. 9 dc and 8 ch-1 sp.

Row 6. Ch 2; turn. Sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across. 8 ch-2 sp.

Row 7. Ch 2; turn. Skip first ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, *ch 2, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across. 7 ch-2 sp.

Rows 8-13. Rep row 7. 1 ch-2 sp.

Row 14. Ch 1; turn. (Hdc, dc, hdc, sl st) in ch-2 sp. Finish off. Weave in ends of wire.

Finishing

Fold Ear Loop back behind the wing. Slide Ear Loop over ear, stretching and molding the wire until it fits neatly over the back of the ear. Mold the wing into desired shape.

Abbreviations

ch chain

dc double crochet

ea each

g gauge

hdc half-double crochet

mm millimeter

rem remaining

rep repeat

sc single crochet

sl st slip stitch

sp space

st stitch

tog together

yd yard

Beginner's Guide to Crochet

2013-05-08T15:28:00.001-04:00

When I started this blog in 2007, my goal was to share my love for crochet with the world. My family was rather cash-strapped at the time (heck, we're still living frugally), so it was important to me to be able to share this love for free. After all, if The Animator's Wife couldn't afford to take hobby classes, why should we assume anyone else could?

This summer we will be going back to the original vision of CrochetKitten.com, so keep your eyes peeled for even more free tutorials and patterns. And to start things off, we thought we'd feature our original how-to-crochet series, presented as a lesson plan below. Even if you've never set hands on a crochet hook before, you can teach yourself to crochet with these tutorials. And if you have any questions, I'll be there to answer questions along the way.

Lesson 1: Getting Started
1. Take a moment to get acquainted with crochet by taking a look at The History of Crochet.

2. Read our brief primer on Yarn and Crochet Hooks. Learn how to hold the hook and yarn.

3. Don't worry--even well-seasoned crocheters mess up sometimes (and sometimes a lot!). Learn how to undo your stitches with a technique called Frogging.

Lesson 2: Basic Stitches
1. Almost all crochet starts with the chain stitch, so this is the first stitch you will need to learn.

Practice: Make 10 chains of stitches, each about 4 inches long.

2. The next step in learning how to crochet is knowing how to work subsequent stitches into the chain stitches. See About Stitches: Where to Insert the Hook and How to Count. And since some lacy patterns require stitches to be worked in a chain stitch, you'll also want to see Working in a Chain Space.

3. Now that you know the basics about stitches, it's time to learn the different stitches! Each stitch has a different size and some may produce different textures in the crocheted fabric. See the following tutorials:

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Single Crochet (sc)

Half-Double Crochet (hdc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Back-Post Stitches

Front-Post Stitches

Decrease (dec) a Single Crochet (sc) - aka sc2tog

Decrease (dec) a Half-Double Crochet (hdc) - aka hdc2tog

Decrease (dec) a Double Crochet (dc) - aka dc2tog

Working in Front or Back Loops Only

4. Once you get to the end of a row of stitches and are ready to start the next row, you will need to work what's called a turning chain. This is simply a number of chain stitches that "raise" the yarn up to the next row. The number of chains worked depends on the type of stitch that will start the next row. Slip stitches and single crochets require 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the row; half-double crochets require 2 chain stitches; and double crochets require 3 chain stitches.

Practice: Make a 4x4-inch square of each of the stitches listed above as follows:

Begin with a chain of stitches about 4 inches long. Skip the required number of chain stitches for the turning chain, and work whatever stitch you are practicing in each remaining chain stitch. Then flip the project over from left to right, so that the back is facing you. Work the required number of chain stitches for the turning chain, and work 1 practice stitch in each stitch across. Continue this way until your project is 4 inches long.

5. Once you're done with your project, how do you end it? See Finishing Off and Weaving in Ends.

Lesson 3: Reading Crochet Patterns

1. The first thing every new crocheter wants to do is try out their first crochet pattern! But crochet patterns have their own special language. See Reading Crochet Patterns to decipher them.

Practice: Take a look at any of our free patterns and see if you can rewrite them in longhand.

2. If you can't find the yarn used in the pattern, see Substituting Yarn in Patterns.

3. If your pattern is something for which size matters, you'll want to learn about Measuring Gauge.

Practice: Measure the gauge in the practice squares you made in Lesson 2.

Lesson 4: The Finishing Touches

1. Would you like to make a multicolored piece? Or perhaps you simply ran out of yarn and need to start a new skein. See Changing Yarn or Colors Within a Piece.

Practice: Pick a stitch from Lesson 2. Starting with a chain about 6 inches long, make a scarf with your chosen stitch, switching colors every 3 rows.

2. Some advanced patterns require the use of stitch markers to help you keep track of your stitches. See Using Stitch Markers to learn how to use them.

3. Some projects are made with more than one piece that are sewn together. The technique used is often Whipstitching.

Practice: Whipstitch 2 squares from Lesson 2 together.

Now that you know all the basics of crocheting, take a look at our more advanced tutorials to further your skills!

How to Make Crazy Daisies

2013-05-01T15:48:00.000-04:00

This week we're going to highlight a nifty little tool that has been in and out of crochet fashion: the Crazy-Daisy Winder, sold today as a Bloom Loom. They were popular in the 1940s and 1970s and appear to be making another comeback.

Vintage Crazy-Daisy Winder from the 1940s.

What can you make with crazy daisies? Why just about anything that you would normally crochet! Take a look at the Daisy Cover-Up pattern we posted last week for an example.

Now you may be wondering how to use this little gadget. Well wonder no more! We're here to answer that question for you today.

1. If you have the vintage winder, you'll need to turn the knob to release the spokes. The newer Bloom Looms have stationary spokes that are ready to go right out of the package.

2. Hold the winder in your nondominant hand. Lie yarn across center of winder, leaving the end of the yarn to extend about 1 inch past the bottom of the winder.

3. With dominant hand, wrap yarn around the spoke at the top (No. 1); then wrap yarn around the spoke directly opposite (No. 2); then wrap yarn around the spoke next to the first spoke (No. 3). Continue in this manner, wrapping the yarn once around each spoke in the order shown above, until all 12 spokes are wrapped.

Variation 1: Wrap the yarn around each spoke twice to make double petals.

4. End by bringing the yarn back down to the bottom of the winder. Cut the yarn, leaving a 4-inch tail for sewing.

Variation 2: You may also make wider petals by wrapping the yarn around 2 spokes at a time. Begin as shown in Step 1. Then wrap yarn around spokes 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 5 & 6, 7 & 8, and 9 & 10. Then continue wrapping around spokes 11 & 1, 12 & 3, 2 & 5, 4 & 7, 6 & 9, 8 & 11, and finally 10 & 12. End as described in Step 4, and continue with Step 5.

5. Thread the 4-inch tail into a yarn needle. Insert needle under 4 petals and draw yarn through tightly. Insert needle back under the last 3 of those 4 petals plus the next petal (making 4 petals in all); draw yarn through tightly.

6. Repeat Step 5 until you have made 13 stitches. Tie yarn off and cut the ends close to the center. Don't worry, this is the "wrong" side.

7. Remove the daisy from the winder by twisting the knob and drawing in the spokes (or simply lift it straight off the Bloom Loom). Flip the daisy over to reveal the "right" side. Admire your work.

Daisy Cover-Up

2013-04-24T15:41:00.001-04:00

I was asked recently about a project that The Animator's Wife had made several years ago.

This shrug, believe it or not, is crochet. It was made with the help of a nifty little gadget called a Crazy-Daisy Winder.

The one in the picture is the genuine article from the 1940s, but Boye sells a modern one called a Bloom Loom. With the looms, you can make little flowers out of yarn, ribbon, or raffia, which can then be crocheted together into a number of projects, such as the Daisy Cover-Up.

UPDATE: See this tutorial on how to make the daisies.

Pattern originally designed by Bernhard Ulmann Co, Inc (now in the public domain).

Size: One size fits most.

Materials

525 yd worsted-weight yarn

Size G-6 (4.0mm) crochet hook

Crazy-Daisy Winder or Bloom Loom

Yarn needle

Gauge: 1 finished daisy = 2 inches

Use winder or loom instructions to make 104 daisies with 12 double petals and 8 daisies with 12 single petals (to be folded in half and used as half daisies).

Joining the Daisies

Join yarn with sl st under both loops of a petal, inserting hook from right side of daisy, with care not to twist the petals.

Row 1 (Lower Edge). Ch 1; sc in same petal as joining, *ch 3, sc in next petal;* rep from * to * 6 times. **Sc in petal of a new daisy, remove loop from hook, insert hook in sc in 7th petal of first daisy and back in loop that was removed, draw loop through sc; rep from * to * 6 times, then rep from ** until there are 12 daisies in the row. Do not finish off. To finish the "free" petals of the daisies on the other side of the row, ch 3, sc in 9th petal of last daisy, *ch 3, sc in next petal; rep from * twice, ch 3, sc in joining st between last daisy and the next daisy, ch 3, sc in 9th petal of next daisy; continue in this way across all free petals. Sl st in first sc of first daisy. Finish off.

Daisies are joined from left to right. Join with sl st in petal of new daisy.

Row 2. Sc in same petal as joining, ch 3, sc in next petal, ch 3, sc in 3rd petal, remove loop from hook and draw through sc in 2nd petal to the left of joining st between first 2 daisies of last row, *ch 3, sc in 4th petal, remove loop from hook and join to next petal in row below, ch 3, sc in 5th petal, join to first petal of next daisy after joining st in row below, ch 3, sc in 6th petal, join to next petal in row below, ch 3, sc in 7th petal of last daisy, ch 3, sc in 3rd petal of new daisy, join to next petal of row below.* Rep from * to * until there are 11 daisies in this row. Finish the "free" petals of the daisies as in Row 1.

Join with sl st in petal of new daisy.

Row 3. Sc in petal of new daisy, *ch 3, sc in next petal; rep from * 3 times, remove loop from hook and draw through sc in 4th petal to the left of joining st between first 2 daisies in previous row, ch 3, sc in 6th petal, join to next petal in row below, ch 3, sc in 7th petal, ch 3, sc in 8th petal. Continue joining as before until there are 12 daisies in this row. Finish the "free" petals of the daisies as in Row 1.

Rows 4-9. Rep rows 2 & 3.

Side Edges

Fold a single petal daisy in half so that there are 6 double petals. With folded edge toward outer edge of short side, join first double petal to the 12th petal of first daisy in 1st row, ch 3, sc in next petal, join to 11th petal of first daisy; join next 2 petals to first 2 petals of first daisy in 2nd row; join 5th and 6th petals to 3rd and 4th petals of first daisy in 3rd row. Finish off. Fill in remaining spaces at side edges in the same manner.

Cuffs - make 2.

Ch 11.

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea rem ch across. 10 sc.

Row 2. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first sc, sc in blo of next 8 sc, sc in last sc.

Rows 3-52. Rep Row 2.

Finish off.

Finishing

Gather in side edges and sew to cuffs. Sew seam of cuff and continue sewing seam together up side edge of first few daisies at each side to form sleeve. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations

blo back loops only

ch chain

ea each

mm millimeter

rep repeat

rem remaining

sc single crochet

sl st slip stitch

st stitch

yd yard

April's Pearls

2013-04-18T16:12:00.000-04:00

We've been busy with Spring cleaning this week. Landscapers and carpet cleaners and maids--oh my! Today I was so bothered by everything I ran under the sleeper sofa for some quiet time... and got stuck! I don't know how I got myself wedged in there, but The Animator had to come rescue me after everyone left.

Despite my harrowing experience, I wanted to post a quick pattern for you. This necklace works up in about an hour, so even if you're bogged down by Spring cleaning, you have time to whip this up.

It attaches in the back with a clasp.

But don't worry--even you don't know a thing about making jewelry, all you need to know to make this lovely is the chain stitch.

Materials

Size 10 crochet cotton

57 fresh water pearl beads

2.75mm steel crochet hook

1 necklace clasp

1 beading needle

Directions

Thread pearls onto crochet cotton with beading needle.

Strand 1. Leaving a 10-inch tail, ch 6, *slide 1 pearl up to hook, ch 6; repeat from * 17 times. Finish off, leaving a 10-inch tail. 18 pearls.

Strand 2. Leaving a 10-inch tail, ch 6, *slide 1 pearl up to hook, ch 6; repeat from * 18 times. Finish off, leaving a 10-inch tail. 19 pearls.

Strand 3. Leaving a 10-inch tail, ch 6, *slide 1 pearl up to hook, ch 6; repeat from * 19 times. Finish off, leaving a 10-inch tail. 20 pearls.

Finishing

Lie all three strands flat and stretched out, one on top of the other. Tie the left ends together, then tie the right ends together. Sew left side of necklace clasp to the left side and right side of necklace clasp to the right side. Weave in all ends.

Crochet Stitch Marker Charms

2013-04-10T15:31:00.000-04:00

The Animator's Wife has an affinity for those fancy stitch markers that have been all the rage on Etsy lately. You know, the ones that sort of look like beaded earrings? She can't help it. She's a girly-girl and likes to have nice things.

The only problem with those stitch markers is they're kind of expensive and prone to getting lost. Well we've come up with a super easy way to make some inexpensive ones for yourself that includes a way to keep track of them.

Introducing stitch marker charms:

By attaching these stitch markers to a keychain or charm bracelet, you won't have to worry about losing these little gems. And since it's made from a thrifted charm bracelet or keychain, it's eco-friendly and cheap to make! (Note: See this tutorial if you've never used stitch markers before.)

Materials
1 charm bracelet or keychain with charms
Lobster claws (1 for each charm)
Small pair of needle-nose pliers

1. Begin with a charm keychain or bracelet.

2. Use the needle-nose pliers to open the jump ring connecting the charm to the bracelet.

3. Your charm should now be in two pieces: the charm and the jump ring.

4. Use the jump ring to attach the lobster claw to the charm.

5. Use the pliers to close the jump ring so that the lobster claw is securely attached to the charm

6. Voila! You now have a stitch marker with a lobster claw clasp.

7. Repeat steps 2-6 with all the charms and attach them to your bracelet or keychain.

Adding Hair to Amigurumi

2013-04-03T15:21:00.001-04:00

Have you ever wondered how some crocheters add hair to their amigurumis? Well we're here to answer that question for you today!

The easiest way is to use an eyelash yarn like Lion Brand Fun Fur, which will give your amigurumi the appearance of having fur, like this:

To do this technique, simply hold a strand of the eyelash yarn with a strand of regular yarn as you are crocheting. You may need to go up one hook size to compensate for the extra strand of yarn, though.

But what if you are making a little amigurumi person whom you would like to have hair, or an amigurumi animal that you would like to have long fur? Well technique for that is simple, and we'll demonstrate on our amigurumi Yorkie.

1. Start by making your amigurumi as usual. You'll add the hair after it's been stuffed and assembled. For the hair, you'll need to cut several strands of yarn that are at least twice the length you want the hair to be.

2. Insert your hook under a stitch in a spot where you would like to have hair. You'll want to start at the hairline, or if the hair is going to be parted, you can start by working along the part.

3. Fold 2 strands of yarn in half, and insert the hook in the folded end of the yarn.

4. Use the hook to pull the folded end of the yarn under the stitch and through the amigurumi, taking care not to pull the yarn all the way through. The ends of the yarn should remain on the opposite side of the stitch as the folded end.

5. Open up the fold of the yarn so that you have a loop.

6. Insert the ends of the yarn into the loop you just opened.

7. Pull the ends of the yarn tightly to cinch the loop down into a knot.

8. Let the ends of the yarn fall down wherever you'd like the hair to be.

9. Repeat steps 2-8 until you are satisfied with your amigurumi's hairiness.

10. Trim the hair to the desired length and style.

Crochet Easter Eggs

2013-03-27T14:16:00.001-04:00

Ladies and gentlemen, in celebration of Easter this weekend, I would like to present to you a new way of decorating Easter eggs. This one does not involve any artificial dyes (depending on what type of yarn you use) and yields eggs that you can keep for years to come.

That's right--this year The Animator's Wife decided to crochet her eggs.

Now you could do this the hard way, by poking a small hole on either end of a raw egg and blowing the egg out of the shell faberge-style, or you could do what The Animator's Wife did and use wooden eggs from the craft store. You can even use plastic eggs if you want. If you're a parent, I'm sure you'll have plenty left over from the Easter egg hunt!

The eggs pictured above were all made from free patterns the blue is the Striped Easter Egg Cover, the green is the Victorian Easter Egg Ornament (minus the ruffle), and the pink is the Granny Egg. All three patterns are super easy to make and use scrap bits of crochet thread or lace-weight yarn that you probably have lying around the house. Now you have no excuse not to make them before this weekend.

Happy Easter!

Sculpting Amigurumi Pieces

2013-03-20T14:28:00.002-04:00

A few months back we did a series on how to make amigurumi. Since The Animator's Wife is currently participating in an amigurumi swap on Crochetville, we thought it would be fun to share just a couple of more secrets to making your amigurumi extra-special.

So as not to reveal too much to The Animator's Wife's swap partner, this week we're just going to talk about sculpting amigurumi pieces.

Sounds scary, you say? You're a crocheter, not a sculptor? Well don't let the terminology scare you. It's so easy you'll be wondering why you weren't doing it all along!

Take a look these two legs.

Both of these legs were made using the exact same pattern, yarn, and hook. But notice how the leg on the left has sort of a bulbous foot compared with the leg on the right, whose foot is more, well, foot-shaped. How is that possible? The answer, of course, is because of sculpting!

Watch how easy this is.

1. After stuffing but before sewing the pieces closed, simply grab hold of whatever part of the amigurumi you feel needs shaping (in this case, the foot).

2. Now squeeze that part into the desired shape. Mash it and squeeze the stuffing around until you are satisfied with how it looks. You may end up removing a bit of stuffing in this step.

3. Now, using a yarn needle and yarn in the same color as the piece you're working on, sew the piece into place. If you make sure each sewn stitch only runs across one crocheted stitch, your sewing stitches won't be noticeable.

That's it! Happy customizing.

Tea Time Purse

2013-03-06T14:00:00.001-05:00

"'And ever since that,' the Hatter went on in a mournful tone, '[Time] won't do a thing I ask! It's always six o'clock now.' A bright idea came into Alice's head. 'Is that the reason so many tea-things are put out here?' she asked. 'Yes, that's it.' said the Hatter with a sigh: 'it's always tea-time, and we've no time to wash the things between whiles.'"

It's hard to believe Spring is just around the corner with the Snowquester that is pounding us today, but it is! And that means the season for showers, brunches, and tea parties is upon us, and of course you'll need the perfect purse for occasions such as these.

This pattern is actually a Crochet Kitten classic. It was originally designed for a California trip The Animator and His Wife took several years ago, but it was previously only published in our eBook, A Very Crochet Unbirthday. We thought we'd share it today for those of you who are snowed in with us.

Finished Size: 7.5” diameter.

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Materials:
175 yd 1/super fine weight yarn or sock yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
1/3 yd fabric for lining
Sewing thread in coordinating color
7” zipper
Six 8mm round beads
Five 15mm buttons
Eight 9mm buttons
5 yd 1/8” wide ribbon
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

NOTE: Pattern is worked without turning between rounds.

Panel – make 2.

Ch 4.

Rnd 1 (RS). 11 dc in fourth ch from hook (first 3 ch count as dc now and throughout), join with sl st in first dc. 12 dc.

Rnd 2. Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc and each rem dc around. Join with sl st in first dc. 24 dc.

Rnd 3. Ch 4 (beg ch-4 counts as 1 dc and 1 ch-1 sp now and throughout), skip first dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, *(dc in next dc, ch 1) 3 times, skip next dc; rep from * 4 times. Dc in last dc, ch 1, join with sl st in first dc. 18 dc.

Rnd 4. Ch 4, skip first dc and ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(dc in next dc, ch 1) twice, (dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) twice; rep from * 4 times. Join with sl st in first dc. 24 dc.

Rnd 5. Ch 3, 1 dc in first ch-1 sp, 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, next ch-1 sp, and next dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first dc. 60 dc.

Rnd 6. Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first dc. 72 dc.

Rnd 7. Ch 4, skip first 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, (dc in next dc, ch 1) twice, (skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1) 3 times, *dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc) twice, ch 1, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc,) 3 times; rep from * around. Ch 1, join with sl st in first dc. 42 dc.

Rnd 8. Ch 4, skip first dc and first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) twice, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, *(ch 1, dc in next dc 4 times, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times; rep from * around. Ch 1, join with sl st in first dc. 48 dc.

Rnd 9. Ch 3, skip first dc, (dc in next ch-1 sp and next dc) 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, *(dc in next dc and next ch-1 sp) 3 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first dc. 108 dc.

Rnd 10. Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first dc. 120 dc.

Rnd 11. Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first dc. 132 dc.

Finish off. Repeat rnds 1-11 for second panel.

Lining

Lay each panel flat on fabric to be used for lining. Use panels as templates, and cut fabric around the panels leaving a 1” to 1/2" margin, depending on how much “give” is desired. Sew the two fabric panels together around the edges, leaving a 6” opening at the top. Hem top edge, trimming excess fabric.

Assembly

Place crocheted panels wrong sides together. Join yarn with sl st through both panels in any dc of last rnd. Ch 1; do not turn. Sc in same ch as joining and next 33 dc; place first stitch marker for bottom edge. Sc in next 32 dc; place second stitch marker for bottom edge. Sc in next 33 dc; leave rem dc un-worked. Finish off. 99 sc.

Bottom Edge

Thread six 8mm beads onto yarn, then join yarn with sl st in same stitch as second marker placed for bottom edge.

Row 1. Ch 1, then working toward first stitch marker placed for bottom edge, sc in same sc as joining, sc in next sc, *ch 5, sl st in third ch from hook; picot made. Ch 3, skip next 4 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * 5 times, sc in same sc as first stitch marker. 6 picots.

Row 2. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first 2 sc, *ch 3, slide 1 bead up to last ch made, ch 4, sc in next sc; rep from * across. Sc in last sc. 6 beaded ch-sp.

Finish off.

Top Edge

Working in front panel only, join yarn with sl st in first un-worked dc of rnd 11.

Row 1. Ch 1, then working toward rem un-worked dc, sc in same dc as joining and next 32 dc. 33 sc.

Row 2. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first 2 sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, *skip next 2 sc, 6 dc in next sc, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc; shell made. Ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * twice. Sc in last sc. 3 shells and 4 ch-2 sp.

Row 3. Ch 1; turn. Dec 1 sc over first 2 sc, ch 2, *dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 5 times, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once. Dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 5 times, ch 2, dec 1 sc over last 2 sc. 3 shells and 2 ch-2 sp.

Row 4. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first sc, 2 sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 5, sl st in third ch from hook, ch 3, 2 sc in next ch-sp; rep from * across. Sc in last sc. 16 picots.

Finish off. Rep rows 1-4 for Top Edge of back panel.

Strap

With yarn, ch 240. Finish off, then make a second chain of 240. Finish off. With ribbon, ch 180. Finish off. Braid the two yarn chains together with the ribbon chain, knotting the braid together at each end. Sew one end of the braid into each corner of the Top Edge of the Baguette.

Finishing

Sew one 15mm button in each of the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions on rnd 10 of the front panel. Sew one 9mm button in each of the remaining number positions. Embroider clock hands with remaining 1/8” ribbon. Sew last 15mm in center of clock face. Sew lining in place at Top Edge of baguette, leaving shell edge free. Sew zipper in place according to zipper instructions. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
mm millimeter
rem remaining
rep repeat
rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
sp space
yd yard

Alice and the White Rabbit

2013-02-27T14:21:00.000-05:00

There was nothing so very remarkable in that; nor did Alice think it so very much out of the ordinary to hear the Rabbit say to itself 'Oh dear! Oh dear! I shall be too late!' ...but when the Rabbit actually took a watch out its waistcoat pocket, and looked at it, and then hurried on, Alice startled to her feet.

This is a pattern that was previously only available in our new book, A Very Crochet Unbirthday. Please do check out the book, as it has all of our Wonderland-themed patterns together in one place. But for today, we thought we'd make our Alice and White Rabbit pattern available for free. Enjoy!

Finished Size: 3” high
Skill Level: Experienced

Materials:
Size 10 thread
2.75 mm steel crochet hook

Alice

Ch 4.

Rnd 1. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st in top of beg ch to form a ring.

Rnd 2. Ch 3. (Tr2tog, ch 3, sl st) in same st as joining, (sl st, ch 4, dtr2tog, ch 4, sl st) in next dc, ch 2, hdc in next 2 dc, ch 6, sl st in hdc just made, hdc in next dc, ch 6, sl st in hdc just made, hdc in next dc, ch 2, (sl st, ch 4, dtr2tog, ch 4, sl st) in next dc, (sl st, ch 3, tr2tog, ch 3, sl st) in next dc, sl st in next dc, sc in next 2 dc, sl st in last dc.

Worked in rows from this point forward.

Row 1. Ch 1; turn. Sc in ea sc. 2 sc.

Row 2. Ch 1; turn. 2 sc in ea sc. 4 sc.

Row 3. Ch 3; turn. 2 tr in first sc, ch 8, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and ea ch across, hdc in last tr made, (tr, ch 3, sl st) in same sc as last tr, (sl st, ch 4, 2 tr) in next sc, (2 tr, ch 4, sl st) in next sc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 tr) in next sc, ch 8, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and ea ch across, hdc in last tr made, (tr, ch 3, sl st) in same sc as last tr. Finish off.

Row 4. Join thread w/ sl st in top of last ch-3 of row 3. Ch 3, dc in same ch as joining and ea ch across, 2 dc in t-ch. 7 dc.

Row 5. Ch 4; turn. (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in first dc, skip next dc, sc in next dc, (dc, [ch 1, dc] 3 times) in next dc, sc in next dc, skip next dc, (dc, [ch 1, dc] 3 times) in last dc. 3 shells.

Row 6. Ch 4; turn. (Dc, ch 1, dc) in first dc, *skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, (dc, [ch 1, dc] 3 times) in next sc; rep from * once, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in top of t-ch. 4 shells.

Row 7. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first 12 st (ch-1 sp count as 1 st), ch 8, hdc in 2nd ch from hook & ea ch across, hdc in last sc made, sc in next 4 st, ch 8, hdc in 2nd ch from hook & ea ch across, hdc in last sc made, sc in ea rem st across and in top of t-ch. Finish off.

White Rabbit

Ch 4.

Rnd 1. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st in top of beg ch to form a ring.

Worked in rows from this point forward.

Row 1. *Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in last ch and same st as joining, sc in next dc; rep from * once. Hdc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next dc; leave rem dc un-worked.

Row 2. Ch 5; turn. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 2 ch, (hdc, 3 dc) in first dc, dc in next 4 dc; leave rem st un-worked.

Row 3. Ch 3; turn. Dc in first 6 dc; leave rem st un-worked. 7 dc.

Row 4. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first 2 dc, hdc in next 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in t-ch.

Row 5. Ch 3; turn. Skip first st, dc in next st, dec 1 hdc over next 2 st, sc in ea rem st across.

Row 6. Ch 5; turn. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 2 ch, 2 dc in next st, tr in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st, hdc in last st, ch 3, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in end of row. Finish off.

Weave in all ends and block.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
dtr double treble crochet
ea each
hdc half-double crochet
mm millimeter
rem remaining
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
sp space
t-ch turning chain
tog together
tr treble crochet

Hellebore Tote

2013-02-20T14:50:00.001-05:00

As promised in last week's post on felting, today we are pleased to share with you the pattern for our Hellebore Tote! This one is a freebie, so enjoy!

Finished Size: About 12” wide by 13” high by 5” deep

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials:
Color A (White): 360 yd 4/worsted-weight wool yarn
Color B (Red): 120 yd 4/worsted-weight wool yarn
Color C (Black): 1090 yd 4/worsted-weight wool yarn
Size H-8 (5.0mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
4 (1 1/2-inch) D rings

Hellebore Square - make 26.

With Color A, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc. Finish off. 8 sc.

Rnd 2. Join Color B with sl st in any sc of rnd 1. Ch 1, 3 sc in same sc as joining (corner made), sc in next sc, *3 sc in next sc (corner made), sc in next sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. Finish off. 16 sc.

Rnd 3. Join Color A with sl st in 3rd sc of any 3-sc corner of rnd 2. Ch 4, (tr, dc) in same sc as joining, sc in next sc, (dc, 2 tr) in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc, *(2 tr, dc) in next sc, sc in next sc, (dc, 2 tr) in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. Finish off.

Rnd 4. Join Color C with sl st in any unworked sc in rnd 2. Ch 4, *sc in next tr in rnd 3, hdc in next tr, dc in next dc, 5 tr in next sc, dc in next dc, hdc in next tr, sc in next tr, tr in next unworked sc in rnd 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch.

Rnd 5. Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next tr, *sc in next 11 st, 3 sc in next tr; rep from * twice. Sc in next 5 st, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off. 56 sc.

Polka Dot Square - make 24.

With Color B, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc. Finish off. 8 sc.

Rnd 2. Join Color A with sl st in any sc of rnd 1. Ch 1, 3 sc in same sc as joining (corner made), sc in next sc, *3 sc in next sc (corner made), sc in next sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. Finish off. 16 sc.

Rnd 3. Join Color C with sl st in 3rd sc of any 3-sc corner of rnd 2. Ch 4, (tr, dc) in same sc as joining, sc in next sc, (dc, 2 tr) in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc, *(2 tr, dc) in next sc, sc in next sc, (dc, 2 tr) in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. Finish off.

Rnd 4. Join Color C with sl st in any unworked sc in rnd 2. Ch 4, *sc in next tr in rnd 3, hdc in next tr, dc in next dc, 5 tr in next sc, dc in next dc, hdc in next tr, sc in next tr, tr in next unworked sc in rnd 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch.

Rnd 5. Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next tr, *sc in next 11 st, 3 sc in next tr; rep from * twice. Sc in next 5 st, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off. 56 sc.

Solid Square - make 30.

Work as for Polka Dot Square, but all in Color C.

Front Panel

Arrange and whipstitch 13 Hellebore Squares and 12 Polka Dot Squares together as follows:

Top Row: Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore
2nd Row: Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot
3rd Row: Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore
4th Row: Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot
Bottom Row: Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore, Polka Dot, Hellebore

Back Panel

Arrange and whipstitch 13 Hellebore Squares and 12 Polka Dot Squares together in the same manner as for Front Panel.

Side Panels - make 2.

Arrange and whipstitch 10 Solid Squares together in 2 columns of 5 squares each.

Bottom Panel

Arrange and whipstitch 10 Solid Squares together in 2 rows of 5 squares each.

Assembly

Sc Side Panels to Front and Back Panels, then sc bottom in place.

Edging

Join Color C with sl st in top edge of Tote.

Row 1. Ch 1, sc evenly around. Finish off. Change to Color B.

Row 2. Ch 1, sc evenly around. Finish off. Change to Color A.

Row 3. Ch 1, sc evenly around. Finish off. Change to Color C.

Row 4. Ch 1, sc evenly around. Finish off.

Handles

Make 18 chains of 60 ch each. For each handle, braid 9 chains together. Sew each end of the braid to a D ring. Sew D rings to top of tote.

Felting

Wash in hot water in washing machine on setting with highest agitation. Add 2 tbsp baking soda to wash water for best results. Press Tote on flat surface to dry.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet
mm millimeter
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
tr treble crochet
yd yard

Felting

2013-02-14T13:49:00.000-05:00

The Animator's Wife is on a strict budget since deciding to become a stay-at-home mom, so when her carry-all tote bag began to disintegrate, she decided to do what any craft girl would do--make its replacement!

Of course, the big problem with crocheting a purse is that it's usually nice to sew in some sort of lining so that smaller objects don't fall through the stitches. But with having to chase a toddler around all day, she simply doesn't have time for such things. What's a busy mom to do?

The answer is felting! In the crochet world, felting is the process by which a crocheted woolen piece is submitted to an abrasive procedure that causes the fibers to shrink and matt together, creating a solid "fabric." It often happens accidentally when a woolen sweater marked "dry clean only" gets thrown in the wash, thereby ruining a perfectly good sweater. But it's a great thing to do with purses and pouches--projects where size doesn't matter too much--to create a thick, smooth, solid fabric in which the crochet stitches are discernible. For projects such as purses, it eliminates the need for a fabric lining because it closes all the holes between the crochet stitches.

This is the bag The Animator's Wife made, pre-felting (we'll share the pattern for it with you next week!).

And this is it after:

Notice that the bag is smaller after felting. The felting process shrinks the project by 75-95%; this is why size can't be essential to the project you're felting. You could try to get scientific about it and felt a gauge square to see by what percentage it shrinks, but your finished project may or may not shrink by that same amount, so it's best to be content with not being exact.

So how do you go about felting your projects?

1. Use 100% wool yarn. Do not use any wool labeled as "superwash." Superwash wool is specially processed to make it machine-washable, so felting won't work on it. Also, I would not recommend using hand-dyed yarn, as the color may fade during the felting process.

2. Wash the project in the washing machine with hot water on the setting with the most agitation. The more agitation, the better. Feel free to throw a pair of jeans in with it to increase the agitation. Adding a tablespoon or two of baking soda to the water also helps to increase the abrasiveness of the environment. You may need more than one wash to get the desired degree of felting.

3. Once the project is felted to your satisfaction, lay it out on a flat surface. Press it with your hands into the desired final shape, and leave it to air dry.

4. Once dry, brush the project gently with a soft boar bristle brush to ensure all the fibers lie in the same direction.

And you're done! Treat your final felted project with care, as any additional machine washings may felt it further. If it must be cleaned, I would recommend washing by hand.

Stiffening Crochet (Plus Stiffener Recipes)

2013-02-07T15:00:00.000-05:00

Apparently there's a weird virus going around that doesn't cause much by way of cold symptoms, but leaves the victim utterly exhausted nonetheless. That virus came to visit our house this week. First the Animator, and then The Animator's Wife, which is how it came to be that we purchased one of Stitch Diva's patterns.

The Animator's Wife enjoys the challenge of creating her own patterns, but sometimes it nice to just sit and work on a project and not worry about how it's going to be constructed, especially when you're so tired you can barely function enough to be a mother. You see, The Animator and His Wife were invited to a Mardi Gras party this weekend, and The Animator's Wife just had to crochet her own mask. Well Stitch Diva has a lovely crochet mask pattern--why not use hers?

So alas, we do not have a new pattern for you this week as we had originally planned. But we did think this would be a good opportunity to go over crochet stiffening techniques.

Why would you want to stiffen your crochet? Well perhaps you crocheted a Christmas ornament that you'd like to hold its shape. Or maybe you're making a lacy crocheted bowl. In our case, it was a face mask that we needed to hold it's shape.

You can use a number of different mediums to stiffen crochet. Premade formulas are available at most craft and yarn stores, but we'll share our favorite recipes at the end of this post. The process is the same regardless of the medium.

1. Begin by preparing your medium in a bowl or platter large enough to contain the crocheted piece.

2. Make sure the crocheted piece is completely finished. Weave in all ends before stiffening.

3. Dip the crocheted piece in the stiffening medium and mix well. Make sure it is completely saturated in the stiffener.

4. Spread the crocheted piece out on a flat surface (or in the case of the crocheted mask, a styrofoam head) to dry. Be sure to stretch and mold the crocheted piece into the final desired shape before it dries, especially if you're using a permanent stiffener.

Crochet Stiffener Recipes

Cornstarch Stiffener

This is a non-permanent stiffener that washes out with soap and water.

Ingredients

1 part cornstarch

1 part cold water

3 parts boiling water

Directions

Dissolve cornstarch in an equal amount of cold water. Bring remaining water to boil on the stove. Add cornstarch mixture to boiling water. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened and transparent. Allow to cool until cool enough to handle. Stiffen crochet as illustrated above. Store excess in a covered container in the fridge.

White Glue Stiffener

This is a permanent stiffener. It dries transparent, but may leave a matte finish on your crochet. For a shiny finish, use the cornstarch stiffener (above) or glitter glue stiffener (below).

Ingredients

1 part white craft glue

1 part water

Directions

Whisk ingredients together with a fork or whisk until well blended. Stiffen crochet as illustrated above. Store excess in a covered container.

Glitter Glue Stiffener

This is also a permanent stiffener. It dries transparent, but glittery.

Ingredients

2 parts white craft glue

1 part glitter

3 parts water

Directions

Whisk ingredients together with a fork or whisk until well blended. Stiffen crochet as illustrated above. Store excess in a covered container.

Crochet Classes: Spring 2013

2013-01-30T13:05:00.002-05:00

The Animator's Wife will be teaching the following classes at Nature's Yarns in Fairfax, VA this spring.

Friday, February 15th & March 1st, 2013, 11a-1p: Hairpin Lace
Registration Fee: $30
This class will teach you everything you need to know to get started in hairpin lace! We'll go over how to use the hairpin lace loom while working on a beginner scarf.

Level: Intermediate

Student Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size H crochet hook
Hairpin lace loom

Monday, March 11th & March 25th, 2013, 2:30p-4:30p: Crochet Easter Eggs
Registration Fee: $30
Put away the egg dye and learn how to decorate Easter eggs with crochet! Cardboard eggs will be provided.

Level: Intermediate

Student Materials:
Lace weight yarn
Size F crochet hook
Tapestry needle

Saturday, March 16th, 2013, 1p-3p: Irish Crochet Lace
Registration Fee: $30
Learn the basics of making Clones Lace! In this class we'll focus on how to crochet over padded cording and how to arrange individual motifs into a finished piece

Level: Intermediate

Student Materials:
Sock weight yarn
Sport weight yarn in matching color
Size 2.75mm crochet hook
Straight pins
Contrasting color sewing thread
12x12-inch piece of fabric

Monday, April 8th, 2013, 2p-4p: Crochet Cables
Registration Fee: $30
Cables aren't just for knitters anymore! Learn how to use post stitches to work cables in crochet to give your projects a textured look.

Level: Intermediate

Student Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size H crochet hook

Location for all classes:
Nature's Yarns
11212 Lee Hwy
Fairfax, VA

Call (703) 273-3596 to sign up. Students receive 10% off their purchase of class materials from the store when they register.

Hook to Heal the Homeless

2013-01-23T13:43:00.003-05:00

A while ago I shared The Animator's Wife's story about how she first got into crochet. In the beginning, it was therapy, but now it has become much more than that to her. Crochet is her creative outlet--that which keeps her sane.

Kathryn Vercillo, author of Crochet Saved My Life, seeks to explore the creative side of crochet and how people can use it for personal growth in her next book, Hook to Heal. She's got big plans for this project. Not only will it include creativity exercises, but she's also planning to hold online creativity classes that will be taught in tandem with the book.

The Animator's Wife is very excited about this book, because later this year she will be teaching crochet classes to children at the local homeless shelter. The creativity exercises would be perfect to share with the kids--a great way to focus their energy on positive things.

Unfortunately, a book as in-depth as Ms. Vercillo is planning requires some funds to get off the ground, so we'd like to help get the word out about it. And since the crochet classes also require some resources, we've come up with a way our readers can help both causes at the same time.

For every skein of worsted weight yarn donated to The Animator's Wife to use for the crochet classes, CrochetKitten.com will donate $1 to Ms. Vercillo's Indiegogo fund to help get her book off the ground. The $1 donation will get you listed in the book's acknowledgements when Hook to Heal is published, and the yarn will be gifted to the children at the homeless shelter.

To participate, please send your donations to:

Crochet Kitten
PO Box 4832
Manassas, VA 20108

Yarn must be received no later than February 28, 2013 in order to get your name in the book acknowledgements. Please send an email to selena k {at} crochet kitten {dot} com when you send your donation so we know to be on the look out for it.

And of course, you can also contribute directly to Ms. Vercillo's Indiegogo fund here.

A Very Crochet Unbirthday

2013-01-17T15:48:00.003-05:00

What do you get when you combine two of The Animator's Wife's favorite things? Our latest eBook!

A Very Crochet Unbirthday features 6 popular patterns already published on CrochetKitten.com, plus two brand new patterns never seen before, and instructions on how to hook your own party decorations!

The new patterns include our Tea Time Purse...

...and Alice & White Rabbit motifs that can be used to embellish thank-you cards.

And of course, no Wonderland crochet book would be complete without our Alice Pinafore Bib (as seen on the cover), the Cheshire Cat Costume, the Flamingo Croquet Mallet Covers, the Mad Hatter Hat, and the Queen of Hearts Crown. See all the patterns and purchase your copy here.

How to Use a Yarn Ball Winder

2013-01-09T14:20:00.000-05:00

This morning The Animator walked into the kitchen to find what he called the Amish doomsday device.

It was The Animator's Christmas gift from Grampo, and it was not a doomsday device, it was a yarn ball winder.

In the past I've talked about how to use a yarn swift and how to wind a center pull ball by hand, but I have yet to talk about the nifty little machine known as a yarn ball winder. If you're the type of crocheter who likes to buy luxury yarns by the hank, this device is a must.

There are many varieties of yarn ball winders, some more heavy duty than others, and they range in price from $20 to well over $200. The one that Grampo bought for The Animator's Wife is the Strauch Jumbo Ball Winder, which accommodates large balls and bulky yarns. Regardless of the type you get, they all work essentially the same.

Yarn ball winders are best used with a yarn swift to keep the yarn flowing smoothly and evenly, so please start with this tutorial if you will be using a swift with your ball winder. Then make sure your ball winder is clamped firmly to the table before getting started.

1. Begin by threading the end of your yarn through the yarn guide toward the ball winder.

2. Then secure the end of the yarn in the notch of the ball cylinder.

3. The yarn ball will turn out the most even if it is started halfway down the cylinder. This is done by using a finger to press the yarn down to the halfway point.

4. Slowly begin turning the crank to start the ball winding.

5. Be careful to keep your fingers out of the way of the cylinder as it spins.

6. After the first few turns of the crank, you can remove your fingers from the cylinder and let the ball winder do its thing.

7. If you are having trouble with the ball winding to loosely or too tightly, you can help adjust the tension by grasping the yarn on the opposite side of the yarn guide.

8. When you are finished, you should have something that looks like this.

9. To remove the ball, first pull the starting end out of the notch. Then gently pull the ball up off the cylinder.

10. And there you have it! One perfectly formed center-pull ball, ready to crochet.

Baby's First Belly Dance Costume

2013-01-02T12:52:00.001-05:00

Happy New Year, Everyone!

I sure hope you have some crochet-related resolutions for 2013, be it learning a new technique, or finally making that dream project! Here at Crochet Kitten, we've resolved to get more involved in the crochet community. The Animator's Wife will be giving free crochet lessons to children at the local homeless shelter this year, and we're also planning on participating on lots of crochet swaps at Crochetville.

Unfortunately, we were unable keep two of our resolutions from last year: Video tutorials proved to be too time-consuming to do with a toddler running around, and we had too many other projects that took our time away from the hyperbolic crochet coral reef. The reef is still on our list for this year, but the video tutorials likely will be put on hiatus until Little Lovely starts preschool. But, we did manage to finish the wedding afghans last year. Yay for small victories!

Another resolution The Animator's Wife has for this year is to get back into belly dancing. She's been doing it off and on for the last nine years, but had to take a hiatus when she become pregnant with Little Lovely due to financial constraints. She's decided this year is the year to get back into it so she can lose those last 10 pounds of baby weight!

Little Lovely has been into dancing lately, too, now that she can walk.

Little Lovely & The Animator's Wife at the Renaissance Faire in September.

The Animator's Wife is wearing her Josephine halter and scarf in the photo. And being the belly dance enthusiast that she is, it was only a matter of time before she made Little Lovely her own belly dance ensemble.

And to celebrate her return to belly dancing, we'd like to share the pattern with you. Happy New Year!

Finished Size: Preemie (Newborn, 0-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-18 months, 18-24 months)

Skill Level: Easy

Materials:
DK yarn (tutu & halter)
Sock yarn (headband)
Size J-10 (6.0mm) crochet hook

Size D-3 (3.25mm) crochet hook

Gauge: 4 hdc = 1 inch (with DK yarn and J hook)

Special Stitch: Popcorn.
2 dc in 4th ch from hook (first 3 ch count as dc), remove loop from hook, insert hook in top of first dc, pull removed loop of last dc through. Popcorn complete.

Tutu

With DK yarn and J hook, ch 45 (49, 53, 57, 61, 65).

Row 1. Hdc in 3rd ch and ea ch across. 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64) hdc.

Row 2. Ch 24; turn. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea rem ch; tie made. Sl st in first hdc, *ch 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44), popcorn, ch 2, sl st in next 6 ch, sc in next ch, 2 hdc in ea rem ch, sl st in next 2 hdc, ch 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38), popcorn, ch 2, sl st in next 6 ch, sc in next ch, 2 hdc in ea rem ch, sl st in next 2 hdc; rep from * across, ending with a sl st in t-ch. Ch 24, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea rem ch; second tie made. Sl st in end of row.

Finish off.

Halter

With DK yarn and J hook, ch 3.

Rnd 1. 7 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with sl st in top of beg ch to form a ring. 8 hdc (beg ch-2 counts as hdc now and throughout pattern).

Rnd 2. Ch 2. 2 hdc in flo of same st as joining, hdc in flo of next hdc, *3 hdc in flo of next hdc; corner made. Hdc in flo of next hdc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. 16 hdc.

Rnd 3. Ch 2. Hdc in flo of same st as joining, hdc in flo of next hdc, 2 hdc in flo of next hdc; increase made. Hdc in flo of ea hdc across to next corner, *3 hdc in flo of center hdc of next corner, hdc in flo of ea hdc across to next corner; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. 24 hdc.

Rnd 4. Ch 2. Hdc in flo of same st as joining, hdc in flo of next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in flo of next hdc; increase made. Hdc in flo of ea hdc across to next corner, *3 hdc in flo of center hdc of next corner, hdc in flo of ea hdc across to next corner; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. 32 hdc.

Rnds 5-6 (5-8, 5-10, 5-12, 5-14, 5-16). Continue in the same pattern as rnds 3 & 4, working 2 additional hdc before first increase of each rnd, and working 3 hdc in center hdc of each of the 3 corners.

Rnd 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17). Ch 75. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea rem ch, sl st in same st as joining, sl st in ea hdc across to 2nd hdc of first increase, ch 75, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea rem ch; strap made. Sl st in ea of next hdc across to next corner, ch 6, sl st in 6th ch from hook, *sl st in next 2 hdc, ch 10, popcorn, ch 2, sl st in ea rem ch; rep from * to last corner. Ch 6, sl st in 6th ch from hook, sl st in ea rem hdc around. Join with sl st in first st. Finish off.

Assembly
Thread each strap through the ch-6 loop on the opposite side, crossing the straps in back. Pull straps until halter fits snugly against the body, then tie straps together in back.

Headband

Worked in the round, without joining or turning between rounds.

With sock yarn and D hook, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. (Sl, ch 3, sl) in flo of ea sc around. 6 ch-3 sp.

Rnd 3. 2 sc in ea unused loop of rnd 1. 12 sc.

Rnd 4. *Ch 4, dtr3tog in flo of next sc, picot, ch 4, sl st in flo of next sc; petal made. Rep from * around. 6 petals.

Rnd 5. *Sc in next unused loop from rnd 3, 2 sc in next unused loop; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 6. *Ch 5, trtr4tog in flo of next sc, picot, ch 5, sl st in flo of next sc; petal made. Rep from * around. 9 petals.

Rnd 7. *Sc in next 2 unused loops from rnd 5, 2 sc in next unused loop; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 8. *Ch 6, dtrtr5tog in flo of next sc, picot, ch 6, sl st in flo of next sc; petal made. Rep from * around. Ch 75; first tie made. Finish off, leaving a 3-inch tail. 12 petals.

Join yarn with sl st between two petals on opposite side of first tie. Ch 75; second tie made. Finish off, leaving a 3-inch tail.

Abbreviations

beg beginning

ch chain

dc double crochet

dtr double treble crochet (yarn-over 4 times before starting stitch)

dtrtr double treble treble crochet (yarn-over 6 times before starting stitch)

ea each

flo front loops only

hdc half-double crochet

mm millimeter

rem remaining

rep repeat

rnd round

rnds rounds

sl st slip stitch

sp space

st stitch

t-ch turning chain

tog together

tr treble crochet (yarn-over 3 times before starting stitch)

trtr treble treble crochet (yarn-over 5 times before starting stitch)

Carnation

2012-12-27T11:42:00.002-05:00

A couple of months ago, we posted a tutorial on crochet stockinette that so far has been wildly popular. We showcased the stitch pattern on an infinity scarf that was embellished with a crochet carnation. The carnation was chosen because the scarf was a birthday gift for my aunt, a January baby, and carnations are her birth flower.

One commenter asked if a pattern was available for the carnation. Ask and you shall receive! It's an incredibly easy pattern that can be made from scrap yarn, but word to the wise--it does take more yarn than you would expect.

I'm not going to list yarn type or hook size, because that all depends on you! Use whatever yarn you like and a hook slightly smaller than you would normally use for that thickness of yarn. For the carnation pictured, The Animator's Wife used worsted weight yarn and an F hook.

Carnation

Ch 6. Join with sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1. Ch 3. 17 dc in ring. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch. 17 dc.

Rnd 2. Ch 3. Dc in same ch as joining, 2 dc in ea rem ch around. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch. 35 dc.

Rnd 3. Rep rnd 2. 71 dc.

Rnd 4. Ch 1. Sc in same ch as joining, *ch 3, sc in next dc; rep from * around. Finish off.

Separate petals and locate the starting ring of the carnation. Sew the ring to the desired object. Fluff the petals into a nice flower shape.

Abbreviations

beg beginning

ch chain

dc double crochet

ea each

rem remaining

rep repeat

rnd round

sl st slip stitch

Baby Gift Card Beanie

2012-12-18T13:12:00.001-05:00

Only one week left until Christmas! Have you finished your holiday crocheting yet?

As I mentioned last week, The Animator's Wife swore off crocheted Christmas gifts several years ago in order to preserve her sanity. But that doesn't mean she doesn't make any gifts in December. My aunt Brown-Eyed Girl was a January baby, and she will be receiving two infinity scarves. And one of my cousins (I have so many!) just had her second baby and was in need of a crocheted goodie this month.

Of course, time for crocheting is hard to find in December, but The Animator's Wife still wanted to make something.

Enter the Baby Gift Card Beanie--the perfect quick project for every newborn in your life! It's made with a little pocket that fits a gift card of your choice.

In my opinion, it's quite an elegant way to give new parents the two things they enjoy most: a handmade keepsake and money.

Finished Size: Preemie (Newborn, 0-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-24 months)

Materials

Color A: 180 yd baby weight yarn

Color B: Scrap baby weight yarn

Color C: Scrap baby weight yarn

Size H-8 (5.0mm) crochet hook

Yarn needle

Gift card

HAT

With Color A, ch 4.

Increase Rounds

Rnd 1. 12 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st in top of beg ch. 12 dc.

Rnd 2. Ch 3; turn. 2 dc in ea dc around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 24 dc.

Rnd 3. Ch 3; turn. *Dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 36 dc.

Preemie size skip to Even Rounds below.

Rnd 4. Ch 3; turn. *Dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 48 dc.

Newborn size skip to Even Rounds below.

Rnd 5. Ch 3; turn. *Dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 60 dc.

0-6 month size skip to Even Rounds below.

Rnd 6. Ch 3; turn. *Dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 72 dc.

6-12 month size skip to Even Rounds below.

Rnd 7. Ch 3; turn. *Dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. 84 dc.

Even Rounds

Rnds 4-9 (5-12, 6-15, 7-18, 8-21). Ch 3; turn. Dc in ea dc around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch. Finish off.

BAND AND POCKET

Join Color B with sl st in t-ch of last rnd.

Rnd 1. Ch 3, dc in ea dc around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch.

Change to Color C.

Rnd 2. Ch 3; turn. Dc in ea dc around. Join with sl st in top of t-ch.

Pocket is worked in rows from this point forward.

Row 1. Ch 3; turn. Dc in next 9 (12, 15, 18, 21) dc; leave rem dc un-worked. 9 (12, 15, 18, 21) dc.

Rows 2-3 (2-4, 2-5, 2-6, 2-7). Ch 3; turn. Dc in ea dc across.

Finish off.

EDGING

Join Color B in any dc of last rnd worked. Sc evenly around bottom of hat and around pocket flap.

FINISHING

Fold pocket flap up so that it lies flat against the hat. Sew sides of the pocket flap to the hat, leaving the top open so that a gift card can be slipped in.

Abbreviations

beg beginning

ch chain

dc double crochet

ea each

mm millimeter

rep repeat

rnd round

rnds rounds

sc single crochet

sl st slip stitch

t-ch turning chain

yd yard

Snowflake Holiday Greeting Cards

2012-12-12T13:10:00.001-05:00

It's no secret that crocheters are some of the most caring, generous people out there. How many crocheters have you met who proudly proclaim that they have never crocheted anything for themselves? There's even an entire community of crocheters who crochet solely for charity! Obviously The Animator's Wife has crocheted plenty of things for herself, but she also enjoys making gifts for friends and family. And you'll notice that our crochet patterns for children are always free. Raising kids is expensive enough without having to pay for patterns to make them things!

I'm sure most crocheters would crochet something for everyone on their Christmas list if they could, but that would be ludicrous, wouldn't it? The Animator's Wife tried it for a year or two, but as her Christmas list grew, she eventually had to swear off crocheted Christmas gifts. Too much work and too little time to do it! But this year she had an epiphany: why not just crochet something little for everyone?

And by "everyone," she meant everyone.

A couple of years ago, it occurred to The Animator's Wife that she was just going through the motions of sending out Christmas cards. Those on her list were her most beloved friends and family, and yet all she was sending to show her affection was a mass produced card with some family photos and a signature. Wouldn't it be nice if she could send a gift, however small, with the cards instead?

That's when she got the idea to start making Christmas ornaments to send with the cards. A ha! A handmade gift for everyone on her Christmas list! And this year she took it to the next level by crocheting those ornaments.

Now, I don't want you to think that The Animator's Wife has completely flipped. These snowflakes were made using Not So Granny's Quick Picot Snowflake pattern. They're only two rounds, so they work up fast enough that you could easily make 60 without crying yourself to sleep over it (yes, The Animator's Wife had 60 on her Christmas card list this year).

Go ahead and give it a try. What could be sweeter than a handmade ornament for each of your loved ones?

What You'll Need

Lily Sugar'n Cream cotton (white) - 95 yd makes 15 snowflakes

Size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook

5x7 blank cards with envelopes

Raffia

Directions

1. Crochet the desired number of snowflakes using Not So Granny's fabulous pattern (found here).

2. Write a short message on the back of the card. It could be a poem or a personalized note. The Animator's Wife wrote "My holiday blessings fall upon you like so many snowflakes."

3. Tie one snowflake to the front of each card with the raffia.

Done and done!

Toe-Up Sock Techniques: Part Two

2012-12-05T16:09:00.001-05:00

Welcome to part two of our Toe-Up Sock Techniques tutorial! If you joined us last week, you should now have a sock consisting of a toe and a foot. If you missed Part One, please see this post to get started on your sock, then come back and join us here.

This week we're going to go over how to do the heel and leg of your sock.

What You'll Need:
Sock-weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.5mm) crochet hook
Measuring tape
Stitch marker

Note: As explained last week, in the tutorial we are making a baby sock, but the technique is exactly the same if you'd prefer to make a child-sized or adult sock. Also, although we are using sock-weight yarn, you can really use any yarn you want. Thicker yarn will yield more of a slipper-type sock than a sock that can be worn in your shoes, so keep that in mind. And be sure to use a larger hook if using thicker yarn.

Last week we ended with Step 5 (the foot), so we're going to pick right up where we left off.

Step 6: Another Measurement
Before you start the heel of the sock, you'll need just one more measurement: around the widest part of the leg that will be covered by the sock. This may be around the ankle, calf, or even the thigh, depending on how tall you're planning on making the sock. If your socks aren't going to be much higher than the ankle, this measurement will often be the same or close to the Foot Circumference.

Actual Leg Circumference = the widest part of the leg that will be covered by the sock = 6 inches for Little Lovely

Step 7: Just a Couple More Quick Calculations

You're just four math equations away from finishing your sock. Don't give up now!

Maximum Number of Heel Stitches

Remember when we calculated the Number of Stitches Around the Foot last week? Take that number and divide it by two. This is your Maximum Number of Heel Stitches.

Maximum Number of Heel Stitches = Number of Stitches Around the Foot / 2 = 16 for Little Lovely

Minimum Number of Heel Stitches

Now go back to your Starting Chain number from last week and subtract 1. This is your Minimum Number of Heel Stitches.

Minimum Number of Heel Stitches = Starting Chain - 1 = 8 for Little Lovely

Sock Leg Circumference

Remember last week when we calculated our actual foot measurements by 0.9 to give the sock negative ease? We're going to do the same with the Actual Leg Circumference today. Again, you can round to the nearest half inch.

Sock Leg Circumference = Actual Leg Circumference x 0.9 = 5.5 inches (rounded) for Little Lovely

Number of Stitches Around the Leg

We calculate this number the same way we calculated the Number of Stitches Around the Foot last week. Multiply your Sock Leg Circumference by the number of stitches per inch in your gauge square.

Number of Stitches Around the Leg = Sock Leg Circumference x Stitches per Inch = 32 for Little Lovely

That's it! Make sure you write those numbers down before we continue.

Step 8: The Heel
This is the second tricky part in making socks. If you did last week's tutorial correctly, you should have a sock that looks something like this:

Now let's get oriented. Hold your sock so that you're looking at the tip of the toe, with the starting chain lying horizontal. The stitches above the starting chain are going to on be the top of the foot. The stitches below the starting chain are going to be on the bottom of the foot. Got it?

Lie your sock flat again so that the bottom of the foot is on top. Note where your stitches end. On Little Lovely's sock, they end about halfway across the bottom of the foot. That'll never do.

Go ahead and continue whatever stitch pattern you chose until you get to the far left of the bottom of the foot, like so (at this point you can remove the stitch markers):

Now chain 1 and flip the sock over so that the top of the sock is facing up.

Single crochet in each stitch across until you have the Maximum Number of Heel Stitches. You will leave the remaining stitches un-worked, as the heel is going to be worked in what are called "short rows." On Little Lovely's sock, we have 16 single crochets across.

Chain 1 and turn again. Single crochet in each single crochet across, leaving the last single crochet un-worked. You should have one less single crochet in this row than in the previous row.

Repeat the last step until you have the Minimum Number of Heel Stitches. Each row will have one less single crochet than the previous row. When you're done, you should have a flap that looks like a step pyramid. Little Lovely's heel flap ends with 8 single crochets.

Chain 1 and turn. This time work 1 single crochet in every single crochet across...

...then work 1 single crochet in the end of the row below...

...then slip stitch in the un-worked single crochet below that. You should now have one more single crochet than you did in the last row.

Repeat the last three steps until you are back up to the Maximum Number of Heel Stitches. Each row should have one more single crochet than the last row. When you're done, your sock will look like this, with a completed heel:

Step 9: The Leg

If you've made it this far, you're pretty much home free!

Open your sock so that you're looking into it. See that round hole? All you need to do to make the leg is crochet all the way around that. And like the foot, you can use whatever stitch pattern you like. If you use the same stitch pattern as the foot, it will look like a continuous piece.

Begin by continuing your stitch pattern across the back of the heel.

When you get to the foot, slip stitch in the last end of row of the heel, then make your first stitch in the first un-worked stitch of the foot. Place a stitch marker in this stitch to mark the beginning of future rounds.

Now continue your stitch pattern across the top of the foot. When you get back to the heel, slip stitch in the end of the first row of the heel before continuing the stitch pattern across the back of the heel.

Now that you have the first round of the leg done, just continue as you did the foot, working the stitch pattern evenly around each row, and moving the stitch marker up each row to mark the beginning of each round. Continue until the leg of the sock is the desired length.

But wait! Why did we have to calculate the Sock Leg Circumference again? Well the "average" person likely has a leg circumference similar to their foot circumference, in which case you don't really need to worry about the Sock Leg Circumference. However, if your leg is larger or smaller than your foot, than you will need to add or subtract a few stitches each round on the leg until you reach the Number of Stitches Around the Leg that you calculated. I would recommend not adding or subtracting more than 6 stitches in any given round, and folling that round with a round worked evenly. This will make your shaping smooth and gradual.

Once you're done with the leg, you can cut the yarn and call it a day, or you can add a pretty edging to give it a finished look. For Little Lovely's sock, we added a scalloped edging and a little loop to hang it from our Christmas tree.

Fits like a glove! Or a sock, as it were.

12 Days of Crochet Christmas 2012

2012-12-04T10:53:00.002-05:00

"On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..."

Well if crochet is your true love, then you're in luck, because Crochet Concupiscence is hosting the 12 Days of Crochet Christmas giveaway! Every day for each of the 12 days leading up to Christmas, readers can enter to win a new crochet-related prize. And at the end of the 12 days, the three readers with the most entries will get a signed copy of Kathryn Vercillo's new book, Crochet Saved My Life!

We are pleased to announce that we are one of the featured sponsors of the giveaway, as well as:

Dly’s Hooks and Yarns

Remembering Rowan

and of course, yours truly and Crochet Concupiscence!

To enter the 12 Days of Crochet Christmas giveaway, all you need to do is visit Crochet Concupiscence each day from December 13th to 24th, and follow that day's instructions for entering. Prizes include crochet patterns, yarn, books, and more! Full details of the giveaway can be found here.

Merry Christmas, everyone!

Toe-Up Sock Techniques: Part One

2012-11-28T19:01:00.000-05:00

Christmas is coming, and crocheters everywhere are planning their handmade gifts (if they haven't started them already). Personally The Animator's Wife swore off crocheted Christmas gifts years ago after one year when she over-extended herself and made gifts for way too many people (some of whom didn't even appreciate the effort). So now she reserves crocheted gifts for birthdays so that she can spread them out over the year, and does mini crochet projects for Christmas.

This year we thought it would be fun to do a Little Lovely-sized stocking to hang on the Christmas tree. Since we are using actual crochet sock techniques, we thought this would be a good opportunity to put together a crochet sock tutorial.

This will be a two-part series on crocheting socks from the toe up. We will not be covering socks from the sock down, as The Animator's Wife just does not have patience for that technique. Socks crocheted from the top down usually require a gusseted heel and seem to have a lot of guess-work involved, whereas socks crocheted from the toe down can be tried on as you go, and as long as you have a person's measurements, don't require nearly as much guesswork if you're making them as a gift. So in our opinion, toe-up socks are the superior technique.

The two most difficult parts in any crochet sock pattern are the toe and the heel; master these two parts, and you'll be a sock making machine! That's why we're making this tutorial a two-part series. Today we'll go over the toe and the foot, and next week we'll talk about the heel and leg. (UPDATE: See Part Two of this tutorial here!)

What You'll Need:

Sock-weight yarn

Size F-5 (3.5mm) crochet hook

Measuring tape

Two different stitch markers

Note: In the tutorial we are making a baby sock, but the technique is exactly the same if you'd prefer to make a child-sized or adult sock. Also, although we are using sock-weight yarn, you can really use any yarn you want. Thicker yarn will yield more of a slipper-type sock than a sock that can be worn in your shoes, so keep that in mind. And be sure to use a larger hook if using thicker yarn.

Step 1: Gauge Square

Don't even think about crocheting something wearable without first making a gauge square, even if you are using a pattern! Everyone crochets with varying degrees of "tightness" or "looseness," which affects the finished size of the project. So before you begin your socks, crochet at least a 4x4-inch square (6x6 inches is better) all in single crochets using the same yarn and hook you will be using for your socks, and measure how many single crochets are in each inch. See this Crochet 101 lesson for more on measuring gauge.

Gauge for Little Lovely's Stocking: 6 single crochets and 6 rows = 1 inch

Step 2: Measurements

Next you'll need to measure the foot that will be wearing the sock. Use a flexible tape measure--the type found at fabric stores--to get the most accurate measurement. Those metal ones from the hardware store aren't going to cut it.

To get started with your socks, you'll need two measurements: the Foot Circumference and Foot Length.

Foot Circumference = the widest part of the foot. Little Lovely's foot is only 6 inches around (aw!).

Foot Length = a straight line from the tip of the longest toe to the middle of the ankle. For Little Lovely, that's 4 inches.

Step 3: Calculations

Wait--don't leave yet! I promise this is easy. You've stuck with me this far, so just hear me out!

Sock Measurements

Take both of your foot measurements and multiply them by 0.9. Why? Because socks have negative ease, meaning they are slightly smaller than the actual foot measurement, so that they can stretch nicely over the foot without being baggy. So multiply both of your foot measurements by 0.9, and feel free to round to the nearest 1/2-inch.

Sock Circumference = Foot Circumference x 0.9 = 5.5 (rounded) for Little Lovely

Sock Length = Foot Length x 0.9 = 3.5 (rounded) for Little Lovely

Number of Stitches Around the Foot

Multiply Sock Circumference by the number of stitches per inch in your gauge square. This is the number of stitches you will need to fit around the foot. Round to the nearest number divisible by 4.

Number of Stitches Around Foot = Sock Circumference x Stitches per Inch = 32 (rounded) for Little Lovely

Starting Chain

Divide the Number of Stitches Around Foot by 4, then add 1. This is the number of chains you need to start the sock.

Starting Chain = (Number of Stitches Around Foot / 4) + 1 = 9 for Little Lovely

That's it! No more math needed to start your socks.

Step 4: The Toe

Okay, now that you've got all your numbers written down (you did write them down, didn't you?) you're ready to begin!

Begin with the number of chains that you calculated above.

Round 1. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and each chain across. Place a stitch marker in the last single crochet to mark the side.

Continuing along the bottom, single crochet in each unused loop of the beginning chain, placing a different stitch marker in the last single crochet. This stitch marker will mark the opposite side and the beginning of each round. (Note: If you did this round correctly, you should have the same number of single crochets on both the top and the bottom of the beginning chain. For Little Lovely's sock, we have 8 single crochets on top and 8 single crochets on bottom.)

The rest of the toe is worked continuously without joining or chaining between rounds (see this post for more on continuous rounds).

Round 2. This is an increase round. Continuing back around to the top, single crochet in each single crochet until you get to the stitch before the stitch with the next stitch marker. Work 2 single crochets in the stitch before the stitch marker.

Remove the stitch marker and work 1 single crochet in the stitch it was in.

Then replace the stitch marker and work 2 single crochets in the stitch after it.

Repeat the last 3 steps to increase in the same manner on the other side, working 2 single crochets in the stitch before the stitch marker, then 1 single crochet in the stitch with the stitch marker, and 2 single crochets in the stitch after the stitch marker. In this way, you will be adding 4 single crochets in each increase round.

Round 3. This round is worked evenly, meaning you work 1 single crochet in each single crochet around. When you get to a stitch marker, remove it, single crochet in that single crochet, and replace the stitch marker. This way the stitch marker "moves up" as you go to mark the sides of the sock.

Repeat rounds 2 & 3 until you have the Number of Stitches Around the Foot that you calculated above, or until the toe fits snugly around the foot, as shown below. Be sure to end with a round 3 repeat. The toe may look a little pointy when you're done, but that's okay--it will stretch out and look more rounded when the sock is completed and on the foot.

Step 5: The Foot

This is the fun and easy part, because the foot is all worked evenly--no increases or decreases! Simply work evenly until the sock measures as long as the Sock Length you calculated earlier (measure from the tip of the toe to the last round worked). In Little Lovely's case, we needed a sock 3.5 inches in length.

You may choose to work evenly for the foot by continuing to work 1 single crochet in each single crochet around, but you can really use any stitch pattern you like. For the sock in this tutorial, The Animator's Wife alternated single crochets with double crochets each round in the foot to make it look interesting and work up faster. Whatever stitch pattern you decide to use, just remember to keep moving those stitch markers up each round so that you can keep track of where the sides of the sock are (they will come in handy when you go to do the heel later).

Congratulations! You now have half a sock. Stay tuned next week and we'll go over how to do the heel and leg.