RANCHO SUSPENSION

What is the best length shock for my 4WD suspension lift kit? Long-travel shocks

noreply@blogger.com (www.4WD1.com) — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 22:46:00 +0000

Daily, we get calls and emails from people that go like this:

"I've got a (- insert your vehicle here -) with a 3" lift kit, and I'm chasing shocks that extend out 3 inches more than original, but compress down to the same amount as the factory shocks..."

It's not an unreasonable question. I can see the logic here. Unfortunately, the logic is wrong.

Firstly, let's assume that the vehicle with a 3" suspension lift kit, will benefit from 3" longer shocks. (more about this in a minute).You can't have a shock absorber that is 3 inches greater in the extended length compared to original, yet compresses down to the same length (body length) of the original shock. This is because the shock body (which is your compressed length) must be greater in order to allow for the greater extended length (rod length).

Memorise this.

The body length of the shock must also be greater in order to provide the greater extended length.

The body length of the shock must also be greater in order to provide the greater extended length.

The body length of the shock must also be greater in order to provide the greater extended length.

The extended length of the shock, is determined by the length of the chromed piston rod, combined with the length of the shock body itself. On full compression of the shock, the chromed piston rod is contained within the shock body (almost halving the length of the unit compared to when fully extended). If we made say, just the chrome piston rod longer, and left the shock body length the same, on full compression of the suspension, the shocks chrome rod would simply smash through the base of the shock body. Game over.

Back to the bit about needing shocks 3 inches longer for a vehicle with a 3" lift.

Perhaps your 4WD does need the shocks that are 3" longer to suit the 3 inch suspension lift. However, often this is not the case.

Firstly, even with a 3" lift suspension kit fitted, the potential amount of extra movement or extra travel between the shock mounting points may be minimal. This may be due to the way that the suspension is configured relative the positioning and angle of the shocks to the axle and the wheel. It may be that the sway-bar mechanics on the vehicle are holding the travel of the suspension back, rather than the shocks. It could be that (in the case heavy-duty springs) that the extra spring rate creates less flexibility in the suspension, negating the benefit of fitting a longer shock.

If we go ahead and fit the 3" longer shock, in the case of a coil-spring vehicle, the coils may not remain captive on extended travel (the coil falls out). That's a big deal.

On compression travel (because the shock body is longer) you might crunch (destroy) the shocks as the vehicles suspension pushes down past what the body length of the shocks specification will allow. Ouch!

If the longer shocks do allow for more suspension travel than original, your brake-lines may be too short (stretch and tear). You might put a lot of extra load or tension on your sway-bar. In some cases, your drive-shaft or tail-shaft may pull apart.

I'm not a drama queen (really), so this is how it works...

On most popular Australian-sold vehicles with a suspension lift up of to 50mm of lift. The shock absorber length supplied (in almost any brand in the marketplace) is about the same as the original unit. This is because in most cases there is sufficient travel in the shocks stroke to allow for this type of lift. Particularly as the amount of extra stretch between the shock mounting points is usually less that the amount of vehicle lift height.

I'm not saying you could not get extra travel by fitting a longer or slightly longer shock, but the modifications and checklist involved are usually more involving that what the average family-orientated 4wd wagon owner wants to be involved with.

"But I want maximum travel!"

OK. I hear you.

If your vehicle can benefit from fitting longer shocks than original and you are happy to do what you have to do to maximise the travel - here are some guidelines to start with.

First up, determine the travel your vehicle is capable of with no shocks fitted (none). You usually need to drive your vehicle up onto a dedicated travel ramp for each corner of the vehicle. If you don't have access to a dedicated travel ramp, you can achieve the same thing by jacking up each corner of the car with a forklift (one corner at a time), or finding some off-road terrain (or adapting some) that allows you to fully work the suspension.

Do this with great care. Regardless of the method that you use, you don't want to roll the vehicle over or it to fall on you and crush you. If it is a coil-sprung vehicle (as the shocks are removed) you don't want the coils to drop out.

Record the distance between the shock mounts on full travel each direction. Also for reference, measure the distance between the shock mounting points while the vehicle is parked on flat ground. This measurement is often called the "static" or "rest-height" position.

Then work with your supplier of shocks for the closest match to both the open and closed measurements. The closed (upward travel) is just as import as and the extended (downward travel). This is because in the case of a solid-axle type suspension system, one side of the vehicle must be leveraged up in order for the opposite side to be pushed down.

A technically perfect application sees a shock absorber opened to the the half-way position while the vehicle is parked on flat ground. So, if a shock had 10 inches of travel, the shock, as fitted to the vehicle at normal ride height, would have the ability to extend out 5 inches before coming to the end of its travel, as well as compress 5 inches from the normal rest height position before crunching the shock.

A technically perfect application is not always possible, due to shock length availability, or the travel characteristics of the vehicle (may have more travel in one direction than the other). Essentially, as long as you have optimum travel in both directions, you have a good long-travel shock application.

I mentioned earlier about modifications required to fit genuinely longer shock absorbers than original.

In most cases, extending the axle bump-stops is required. This is to protect the shock from "crunching" and becoming damaged on full compression of the suspension as ...the body length of the shock must also be greater in order to provide the greater extended length.

Extending the axle bump-stops means you are reducing the bump-stop gap, so the rubber bump-stop makes contact with the new metal strike plate position before the shock crunches into itself. Extending the axle bump-stops (reducing the bump-stop gap) sounds counter-productive to the intention of maximising wheel travel. While it does include some inefficiency, the benefit of doing so together with the genuinely longer travel shocks, still outweighs the performance of a high-lift suspension kit fitted with factory-original length shocks, particularly on the bigger-type lifts.

A way of eliminating the need of extending the axle bump-stops and maximising the travel of the suspension is to relocate the 4x4's shock mounting points, so that they are spread much further apart. Weld-on shock hoops are one example of how to do this. It's means that you can fit a shock with a massive amount of travel (more travel than what the vehicle is capable of in any direction). So here, no need for extended bump-stops or inefficiencies in the bump-stop gap travel. No need to worry about crunching the shock on full compression of the suspension.

Next check you brake lines. Purchasing extended-length ones is often part and parcel of custom suspension because the suspension can now articulate further than factory intention. Check (in the case of a coil-sprung vehicle) that the coils remain captive (can't fall out) under the travel of the suspension. Check the stress on other related components on the vehicle such as sway bar and link pins. If you fit longer link pins or extend the original ones, this might alleviate some problems. It might also cause other problems too.
The extra suspension travel achieved may also mean that parts of the suspension or axle may make contact with other parts and accessories of the vehicle. You will need to counteract and compensate for this. Lots of extra travel can even allow your CV's, drive-shaft and tail-shaft to be damaged, slip out or fall apart. Again, you need to compensate for this.

All the things you need to do and check for are beyond the scope of this post. Also, (and this is where I have to do the legal stuff) you need to make sure that any modification you make to a vehicles suspension will not affect the safe and reliable operation of the vehicle, or contravene any applicable regulations, rules, laws or insurance requirements. This is your responsibility. Don't shoot the mail-man.

An alternative we could look at to eliminate a lot of hassles associated with long-travel shocks, is if we started to make the shocks out of rubber. This way, a customer could simply stretch the rubber-made shock out and in to whatever length they want. They could get the exact open length they want, together with the ideal closed length they want also.

It would be good business sense for us too. We would only need to stock one part number on the shelf, rather than the hundreds of different part numbers we currently do.

I'd probably get a raise!!!

So, if you are interested in purchasing the new rubber shocks for your next suspension application, please click here

Cheers,
KB
Posted by Kirk Barker.

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How do you adjust the Rancho shocks and what is the best setting?

noreply@blogger.com (www.4WD1.com) — Tue, 09 Dec 2008 23:22:00 +0000

Each RS9000, RS9000X or RS9000XL shock has a small adjustment knob fitted to the base of the shock body. You simply turn the knob with your fingers. No special tools are needed, and you don't need to remove the shock from the vehicle in order to make the adjustments. Usually it takes 60 seconds to go around and adjust all four units.

The adjustment knob has numbered settings embossed into its face (nine different positions). There is also a small arrow stamped into the shock body so you can align the adjustment dial setting you want to the arrow.

Number 1 is the softest setting and can be achieved by twisting the knob as far as possible anti-clockwise. The firmer settings are achieved then by turning the knob clockwise. Position 9 is the firmest.

After a few months from fitment, the reality of your shocks appearance is that they could be covered with dirt, grime, or mud, making it hard to see the numeric numbers embossed on the ride-adjustment knob or the small arrow mark stamped into the shock body.

Don't worry. Remember, twisting the knob as far as you can go anti-clockwise takes you to the softest setting (number 1). Then, you can feel the clicks when twisting clock-wise from there, '2-3-4-5' etc. so you will know which position you are at. This means that even with your eyes closed, you can adjust the shocks precisely to your personal preference.

Which settings are best for certain purposes?

Usually you make adjustments to the shock based on four variables.

The amount of weight or load carried. This includes accessories fitted, passengers, gear, tools and towing. Extra weight places greater demand on your 4WD's springs, requiring more control or damping from the shocks to ensure good ride-control. Typically, under heavier loads, you are using a setting between positions 5-9.

The speed you are travelling verses the terrain type. For example, highway and freeway driving is typically high speed work (unless you live in Los Angles!) and the roads are smooth. In this instance, look to firmer settings for more sports-car like handling. Firmer settings provide better control at high speed, and because the roads are smooth, little spring action is required - so tight control over the springs is OK.

Inherent characteristics in a vehicle type or 4WD brand. Like people, most vehicles have their quirks. Suspension systems not excluded. (Too soft. Too stiff. Too jerky etc.) On some vehicles with IFS (independent front suspension) there can be complaint about how soft the front-end of the vehicles control and handling is. With the Rancho adjustable shocks fitted, you can dial the units firmer to compensate to a reasonable degree. Or, if the vehicles springs are notably stiff, you can soften the shocks in many circumstances, for a much more comfortable ride.

A combination of all the above. Driving on gravel and corrugated roads often requires good control and handling (firmer settings), yet some 'give' in the suspension (softer settings) is also required or the vehicle may track and skitter. To achieve the best compromise between control and comfort, the load in the vehicle, the speed you are travelling at, and the inherent characteristics of the vehicle all play a part in deciding which settings are ideal to achieve the best compromise between control and comfort in this instance.

From experience, in any situation, you are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability.

Mantra... You are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability.

.....You are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability.

.....You are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability.

Sounds too complicated? It is only a matter of a little experience before you are the master of 'optimum' settings. Plus, if the shocks you purchase aren't adjustable, what would you do if you weren't happy with their performance?

Usually our customers will play with the shocks like a kid with a new toy for a few days. Then they will have confidence in the settings that they choose.

I recommend that when you first receive your Rancho RS9000XL shocks, set them to mid-range (position 5). This is probably the closest to the amount of control you get from the original factory-fitted shocks. Then, from this mid-range setting you can simply 'up' or 'down' the shocks according to your needs.

Don't be afraid to try different settings front/rear either.

Cheers,
KB
Posted by Kirk Barker.

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Click. Rancho Myride wireless remote in-cab system in detail.

noreply@blogger.com (www.4WD1.com) — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 01:52:00 +0000

Do you remember the movie 'Click' starring Adam Sandler?

Michael Newman (Adam Sandler) goes in search of a universal-function remote control for his household appliances. He meets Morty (Christopher Walken), an eccentric inventor who gives him a remote control unit from the "Way Beyond" section of his store, and warns Michael that it can never be returned.

To Michael's amazement, he finds out that the remote is 'literally' universal. It controls the universe and interprets his wishes, even learning to anticipate them. After having some fun with it, he decides to do something serious and fast-forwards to the job promotion he thought to be three months away. When he fast-forwards, a year goes by instead. He receives the promotion, but he and his wife are now in marriage counseling.

The remote is smart, self-programming based on past experiences and is automatically set to skip or fast-forward through sickness, showering, traffic, arguments with Donna (his wife), and job promotions.

What does this have to do with the new Rancho wireless Myride remote control system?

Nothing!...I was getting you thinking though!

The new Rancho Myride wireless remote control system is a gadget. Love them or loath them, this one is great for serious off-road enthusiasts, outback touring families and gadget freaks alike.

What is it and what does it do?

For vehicles fitted with Rancho externally adjustable shocks (Rancho RS9000, RS9000X, RS9000XL) this device (fitted additionally) means that you can control the shocks stiffness (therefore the control and ride characteristics of the vehicle) simply by pushing buttons on a hand-held remote. You can even adjust the shocks settings on-the-move.

Choose either firm ride or soft, or somewhere in between. There are four preset configurations, or you can select your own.

Like the previous versions of Rancho remote kits, the wireless Rancho Myride unit uses air pressure to control a mechanism inside the shocks.

When the shocks are used as boxed with their factory-fitted, finger-tuned, 9-position ride-adjustment knobs, the position of the knob has a telescopic effect on the reverse side of the fitting. This telescope determines the position of a small spring-loaded piston. Where the small piston is placed determines the metering of the rate of oil flow inside the shock, and hence, you receive your differences in shock absorber damping or firmness.

With the Myride unit fitted, elbow joint air fittings replace the manual adjustment knobs, and it is air-pressure which determines the placement of the small spring-load piston at the base of the shock. The system is almost always pressurized. When you install air into the system, the small spring-loaded piston gets pushed back, restricting the oil-flow and increasing the damping rate or firmness. When you relieve air from the system, the small spring-loaded piston comes forward allowing for faster oil-flow and less damping or a softer ride.

The kit we supply includes everything you need for installation apart from your own time. The hand-held remote (about the size of a mobile phone) sends the signals to a box-style receiver. The receiver is wired to the air pump and tells the pump to either fire up or drop air from the system. The air-pump has air-lines and other simple plumbing that extend down to each individual shock absorber.

It's really quite simple, and very functional.

Here are some pics of the components as fitted to my JK Wrangler Rubicon.

This one features the small box-style receiver. We made an L-shape bracket for it to be mounted off the engine pulley bracket.

This picture shows the air compressor (quite compact) mounted between the Jeep's fuse box and battery.

The last picture here shows the air line as connected to the shock. Note the new elbow-joint air fitting that replaces the manual adjustment knob.

How hard is it to fit?

I would be happy to say "easy, but time consuming". If you only needed to link it up on the lounge room floor, you could get it together and going in 20 minutes.

Because you want everything to mounted on the vehicle nicely, both in presentation and durability of fit, it takes a lot of time. The air-lines are really strong, but the same as with lockers, you want the air-lines to be out of harms way as much as possible. You want to ensure enough travel of line to the shock to allow for the travel of the wheel, yet you don't want loose airline flapping about off-road.

Recap.... Easy to fit, but time consuming. If you are a novice without prior experience, take your time. Make it a weekend project and you'll have a great result.

It is worth the expense?

Yes. I have to say that don't I?... but I reckon it's true.

The adjustment feature on the shocks is fair-dinkum. If you own dual-purpose vehicle, say a Toyota Hilux dual-cab, and the Hilux is used for both work and family, alternative brand uprate-type shocks cannot give you both the control you desire under load or towing, and also provide a great unladen or lighter-load ride.

Same deal for 4WD family wagons that perhaps spend 90% of their time 'around town', yet load up to tackle more serious terrain on weekends and holidays.

With a set of Rancho RS9000X or RS9000XL shocks under your vehicle, is it great to be able to dial up firm for maximum control when required. When unladen or with lighter loads, you can dial the shocks valving right down (even much softer than the factory shock valving if you like). This allows the relatively stiff 4WD springs to operate more freely, and results in a significantly better, more comfortable ride.

It really does make a big difference.

When it comes to terrain, problem is, rarely will you stop the car, get out and adjust the knobs for a short range of travel. You probably wouldn't do it for 5km of driving, let alone a shorter stretch of road, or less.

With the new Rancho wireless Myride system fitted, you make much more use of the shocks adjustment. You maximise their value and function - because it's easy. Because it's now push-button technology.

With the new Rancho wireless Myride system fitted, you really provide yourself with a different vehicle. One with the ability to operate at the optimum level of ride control and comfort whatever the pace and rate of change in terrain.

Is it reliable?

This is the fourth generation of Rancho in-cab remote system in the marketplace and also the best. Earlier systems have been used on full-size ambulance vehicles in Australia with great success. The components are solid-state style and quality. Rancho is a brand and a following as much as a family of products. Rancho engineering and marketing people know that brand maintenance is achieved by continuing to create and uphold great products.

The people at Rancho listen and interpret their customers wishes, anticipating their thoughts and expectations.

Perhaps the Myride remote control unit is from Adam Sandlers movie 'Click' after all....

Cheers,
KB.

Posted by Kirk Barker.

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What is the difference between the Rancho RS9000X and Rancho RS9000XL shocks?

noreply@blogger.com (www.4WD1.com) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 21:47:00 +0000

Good question. The Rancho RS9000XL shocks supersede the RS9000X as a series or brand line. They are not an additional product line to the Rancho family.

Much of the new range is about fresh branding. New look (nice metallic silver finish). New graphics design (charlie would approve). New packaging.

Feature-wise, all new Rancho RS9000XL shocks have a beefier 18mm hardened and double-chromed shaft. The original 16mm shaft was plenty. You'd wouldn't break it unless you radically mis-applied the shocks. Plus, the beefier shaft looks cool.

Next, the 9000XL shocks are supplied in 3 different body diameters (reserve tubes). These are 55mm, 60mm, and 'super-duper' 70mm. Which size you get is application specific. You don't get to choose. The shocks for a 1999-2004 Ford F250 feature the 70mm body shocks front and rear. The shocks for a coil-sprung Nissan Patrol have 55mm body shocks at the front, and 70mm body shocks at the rear.

The 55mm body units are generally over-size compared to original-equipment shocks. A fatter shock body means more oil-content. More oil content means greater heat dissapation (cooling), so your shocks can perform at their best for longer. The 60mm body units look really tough, and the 70mm body units look like the rocket launchers on a military tank.

Finally, the new Rancho RS9000XL shocks are gas-charged. This means that the shocks contain nitrogen gas to pressurize the oil within the shock body. The pressure on the oil greatly assists with preventing the oil from boiling (when the shock is working hard). Boiling/foaming causes the shock to fade and reduces performance. Pressurizing the oil means optimum performance in off-road conditions.

The superseded RS9000X were foam-cell shocks. We have always been big fans of foam-cell shocks. They control the oil and prevent foaming, but in a different way to the gas-charged units. Instead of containing nitrogen gas, inside the shock body is a "foam-cell" sleeve (it looks like a piece of wetsuit material). Under normal driving conditions, the foam-cell material retains its regular appearance. When the shocks are working hard and the oil gets hot and wants to bubble and boil, the foam-cell material expands to pressurize the oil in that instance, preventing it to do so, and allowing for maximum performance.

Gas-charge shocks can prevent fade and boiling slightly better than foam-cell shocks. However, compared to the average-supply of gas-charged shocks in the market place, the foam-cell units can have an advantage in terms of life-span or durability. This is because the foam-cell shocks only place pressure on the top seal of the shock when the shock is working very hard. On a gas-pressure shock, there is load (tension) on the the top seal of the shock 100% of the time. Less stress on the top seal of the shock is better as premature failure of the top seal means premature failure of the shock.

You might have had the experience at some time where you have owned a 4WD vehicle from new, and after a number of years (possibly more than 8) needed to replace the original-equipment shocks. Then you did with an aftermarket brand touted as a premium product. The aftermarket shocks were not much more than some minor variation of a generic manufactured shock re-marketed, and after a couple of years (just outside their 2-year 40,000km warranty), the shocks start leaking (top seal) and you need to buy new shocks.

For a gas-charge shock to provide great long-term performance, top seal retention is everything and the quality, fit and function has to be just right.

The Bilstein brand of shocks get it right with their gas-charged shocks and they provide long-term performance. Rancho get it right with their RS9000XL shock series and we put our money where our mouth is on warranty.

Where most of the shock brands in Australia feature a 2-year/40,000km warranty (whatever comes first), 4WD1 offers on their approved purchases, a 3-year warranty with no limit to the kilometers travelled within the 3-year period.

We realize that a lot of people these days travel 40 and 50,000km per year, so a 2-year/40,000km warranty is really no warranty at all. We would not want to offer the warranty that we do to Aussie off-roaders if the product was going to come back to us - especially given our market and user type.

So gas shocks can provide the very best on and off-road performance provided that the quality and design is first-class, and Rancho get the RS9000XL product right.

All the other amazing features of the 9000X and RS9000XL shocks are the same. Same amazing 9-position external ride-adjustment knob with around 800% difference between the first and the ninth setting. Same exclusive use of 15-stage velocity-sensitive valving. Same micro-polished cylinder walls with teflon band piston seal, etc, etc.

Cheers,
KB.
Posted by Kirk Barker.

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Why this blog and what is a lurker? - Rancho shocks | Suspension

noreply@blogger.com (www.4WD1.com) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 02:52:00 +0000

I'm hoping this blog will be different.

In business, it's too easy to make your blog a sausage factory for recycled news and propaganda.

This is the plan.

We're gonna be real. Real info and tips. No jargon or sales-spiel. You can ask questions in the comments. We'll say it how it is.

We'll be approachable. Sometimes we forget that businesses and corporations are people. Simply - a group of people. We're a real company run by real people.

You can learn stuff. Stuff that's good to know, or just plain fun.

Enough 'we'... What about you?

Don't be a lurker. That's a person who shuffles around cyberspace and forums gleaning it for info and entertainment, but does not contribute. Talk to us. Say g'day. Share some stuff with others, and post some feedback.

Come back to our blog. Bookmark it.
Cheers, KB.

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Posted by Kirk Barker