Range Ridins Horse Training Blog

FOR ALL HORSE TRAINERS AND CLINICIANS

2006-08-27T08:28:00.000-07:00

Ok before I start let me say I am not trying to attack.... I am not attacking anyone's form of training or teaching here. This is simply my thoughts.

I read an article this weekend by a very respected horse trainer that I have learned a bit from that had some disturbing statements in it. Now I am not going to make direct quotes but I am going to say a few things here and if the shoe fits, wear it.

Everybody is trying to use different words for the same thing so one can't say to the other one you copied me I am gonna sue. Now I understand we all gotta make our money but I thought we were also trying to get good information out to the other horse people trying to learn. Whether you use the word desensitizing, or sacking out or what doesn't really matter. If you in any way trying to get your horse used to a new situation those words probly fit period. And to say that doing these things is only good if you are never going to take your horse somewhere or do anything with them is just plain ludicrous. I agree that sometimes the bag color might change or even be a different type of object all together. However the " sacking-out" or "desensitizing" process or riding them around to get them used to smells, or what ever you choose to call it serves several important functions.

1. It gets the horse used to some things some may have never seen.

2. Probly most importantly! It builds a bond between horse and man to let them know that you are in control of the situation and if they listen you will take care of them.

To say that this very thing is not needed in any shape or form will get people hurt in the long run. Furthermore someone could indeed get crippled or killed. Then we as a whole carry the burden of that accident as a whole body of trainers and clinicians. Especially those guys out in the lime lite of the public eye.

So I guess what I am saying here is this. Pick and choose your words carefully my friends and fellow horsemen and horsewomen because someone is following you and trying to learn. Don't be an obstacle. Be a Key. God Loves you and so do I . "FOR WHAT IT"S WORTH" , Range

questions on haltering

2006-08-25T09:33:00.000-07:00

As with all questions these are just my veiws and how I work them so just take it and see if it works for you. Question from Dixie Darlin on yahoo "OKay.. This is good info that I am ready to get started on. It's the direction I have been going w/ him, but is it too early? When is the right time? He's 4 mo old.. and was weaned when w3e picked him up last weekend. He's still trying to figure my other horse out. Second part: Should I always work w/ the baby seperate from Bandit?" Very good questions here. "but is it too early? When is the right time? He's 4 mo old.. and was weaned when we picked him up last weekend." No it is nat too early to start this. He is at a crucial time when he needs to bond with someoneor something, so why not you? I like to start my colts off and go through alot of this ground work and I guit young colts right before saddling and repeat the whole process every day till he's got it then turn him out and let him grow up mentally and physically a lil more, then do a lil more and return him to turnout cause he still has to learn to be a horse as well. And he will figure the other horse out in time. With a young colt this age I keep my work to 15 to 20 minutes. No sense in overdoing it and have him dread your coming. If he just isn't getting something he will eventually because basically this first part we are teaching are the same herd dynamics he was learning with momma. second part: "Should I always work w/ the baby seperate from Bandit?" At this stage in the game I do work them seperate althought if we have any separation anxiety I may tie the partner horse outside the round pen away from the gate. Although this will make keeping the colts attention very hard indeed. And as we progress through the training I take away the other horse. You want the colts mind on you. Also let the colt see you working the other horse. Maybe even ride in the pasture with the colt loose until we get throught the next session which will be teaching the horse to give to the halter. Question from Christine on yahoo "You didn't talk about how to get the horses head down, in order to get your arm over the horses neck to pick up the tie end. To get the head down is what I do is I push down on the head just behind the ears, hold lil pressure till he lowers his head. Even just the little bit of try from the horse release immediately. Practice this several times while petting him, getting him ready to put the halter on. And as for holding the lead, I don't make no loop. Just in case the horse bust out,then it won't take me with it. I usually just have about 3 feet of it in my hand and the other throwed over my shoulder, then hold on the the nose band directing the halter over the horses nose, and at the same time reaching over to get the head tie. Is that right Range Rider?" You are right Christine I did not talk about getting the horses head down yet using pressure and yes that is one of the techniques I use to get the head down. I do alot of petting over the horses neck from the on side as I explained. Most of my horses will drop they're heads when they are comfortable. Maybe it is not as low as I'd like but I can work on this during my next phase as I dont want the horse to be able to completely leave me using that technique. But yes your are right. next part: I'm not saying you are wrong here. I don't put the halter lead over my shoulder as I don't like even the idea of a rope burn on my shoulder or neck. However I did not explain the loops well. If I loop them which is rarely the case,(that was a warning) I place it in the crook of my arm where it will be jerked loose if something goes amiss. I prefer ot give myself some slack tossing the tail over the crook of my left so as if I drop my arm I am loose. I have yet to tie my halter so this is not as big an issue. I can help guide the nose band some with my thumb after I have picked up the tie end from the other side just depends on how you are comfortable. And again you are Correct. As I do this I am also in the position of being able to use the halter to direct the horses nose to the proper hole. I try to build on this until he will do most of the guiding for me basically haltering himself. This takes some time to develop but is really handy down the line when you may have to be in a hurry because of circumstances. Please remember guys I am using the long approach that I use on colts with not much handleing at all. If you have a horse that has been handled more that is fantastic. I still won't take a chance on missing a step ar jumping past a step. I will however combine steps on a gentler horse. John 17:11 " And now I am no more in the world, but these are in the world, and I come to thee. Holy Father, keep through thine own name those whom thou hast givin me, that they may be one as we are." Until next time. Remember Jesus Is the way home, Range

2006-08-24T18:32:00.000-07:00

Haltering

2006-08-24T17:41:00.000-07:00

First let me say this. You are going to proceed to rubbing the horses jowls, head and nose with and without the halter until they are comfortable. If at any time they want to leave you drive them for a little while and remind them they want to be your friend. Otherwise if they get uncomfortable go back to a spot they are comfortable and continue to push the horses barriers a little at a time till you got it. Now let us talk about the ole halter for a second because there are lots of em out there. What I am talkin about Is a good old fashioned cowboy halter otherwise known as a rope halter for some reason. Leather halters and nylon all have they're uses of course but I prefer these halters for training and all round use. Want more info check out my tack page and I should have it up by the end of the weekend. Alright now so we got him comfortable with you rubbing him all over the neck and head with the halter and with your arm going over the top of his neck up close to his head. I want to have my halter prepared and ready with the lead draped over my left arm, (do not put your arm through the loops of the lead or halter) with the halter straight and the loop between my thumb and forefinger. My tie end I drape over my little finger. Now as I move this under my horses neck I reach over the horses neck and pick up my tie ends guiding the horses nose into the halter as I pick up slowly, keeping my arm over the horses neck. Meanwhile I am constantly talking to the horse in a relaxing tone. Notice I haven't moved to tie this halter yet?

Now I slide the halter off and repeat the process several times before I am ready to actually tie this halter. I may even move away and give him a break after he lets me do this easily. At this point if I tie the halter and he panics there is the lead rope to wrap around his legs, or my arm if you didn't pay attention to my warning. I have even seen the tail of these ropes wrap around a leg and drag people. Next time INTRODUCING THE HALTER don't miss it.

John 4:23

"But the hour cometh and now is, when the true worshippers shall worship the Father in spirit and in truth, for the Father seeketh such to worship Him."

Thanks for your time, and may God bless and keep you, Range.

2006-08-22T12:37:00.000-07:00

First approaches

2006-08-21T08:54:00.000-07:00

Ok so you are now driving your horse while getting the direction and speed you want fairly consistent but hey it is still the first day in the pen. I am sure now that you have worked the horse enough he is slightly tired and ready to stop and take a break. Great time for the first approach. After I draw the horses eye an/or chest and neck towards me I am ready to make the approach. When I make my first approach I again take the neutral body position, with my hand slightly raised palm up as if to feed this horse from my hand (don't use feed that is just how I hold my hand...), but I walk slowly but confidently towards the horses neck watching for any change to leave by the horse. If the horse starts to leave I will do either a 90 past the horses head (most will leave away from you) or a 180 and leave the horse. He's thinkin ".... Wait, he's the boss, where's he goin...." Because by driving and drawing your horse you have made him think you are the leader of his herd. I go back to the center of the pen and start over. Trying to always change direction before the horse leaves. DON'T GET IN A HURRY AND TRY TO RUSH! Rushing here can make catching horse nightmares. We can be a lil more demanding and I will cover that a lil later in this section. As I get close enough to the horse for a touch I DO NOT reach out to the horse. I wait for the horse to smell my hand. As soon as he does I retreat and give him a break because 9 out of 10 will probly leave. If he does leave here I will drive him at a hard trot for a minute or so then I will try again. Horses are just like most of us. They would rather stand still and be a tad lazy. So I am going back and forth to the horse and to the center and the horses attention is totaly on me. If I lose it I will drive him back to me with the driving exercises. We can move forward when, I can approach and he is not threatened and smells my hand and I, will give him a short stroke on the jaw or neck as. I retreat back to my center position. I will continue to build on this until I can pet and approach from both sides. Anytime the horse goes to leave at this point, I drive him and let him work himself to the point he is ready to continue, WITH ME. Sometimes I will get a hard case in who just won't let my touch him. Maybe my approach is off or he had a bad experience with another trainer, or whatever .... he just won't accept me the first day.. That is fine, I do have the facilities to keep him there all day only getting something to eat or drink on my terms which means being close enough to me he has smell and eventually brush up against me. However rather than have this go on for an eternity I do have some other options. I don't always have time to do it this way so...... What are those options. 1. If I am confident the horse is not going to try the panels or me I will up the ante by driving the horse at a hard trot or lope, turning him into the fence every half round of the pen until he is readyt to slow down for a reward which will now be only if he will trust me to pet him. 2 I may decide it is in my horses best interest for me to just rope him. If number one is used keep reading. If number 2 is used please read on for the info you will need to back up and get it if you don't Ok so now we are petting the horse on both sides and I am slowly positioning myself closer to the neck and facing forward every time. (Side note: DO NOT PUT YOURSELF BETWEEN THE FENCE AND THE HORSE!!!)I am also starting to reach my hand on top of the mane and closer to the ears as well as pettin the other side of the neck over the top with both hands now petting. (NOT PATTING) anytime I think he wants to leave here I will not stop petting but will move my hands back to where he is more comfortable. constantly pushing my boundaries while respecting his. When I can pretty well lay my arm over the top of the horses neck and pet and reach on the other side I will repeat the process with the halter in my hands while petting. If he leaves I can use the tail of my lead rope to drive him. Next will be First haltering. Eph 3:17 That Christ may dwell in your hearts by Faith; that ye, being rooted and grounded in Love 18 May be able to comprehend with all saints what is the breadth, and length, and dept, and height: 19 And to know the love of Christ, which passeth knowledge,that ye might be filled with all the fullness of God. Thanks for your time And God's Blessings be upon you all, Range

First steps to Trust and Respect

2006-08-21T08:47:00.000-07:00

I generally like to start in the roundpen on the ground although I will start some from another horse and a very small percentage outside of a roundpen on a lunge line but lets not get ahead of ourselves. In the round pen before I turn in my horse are my physical tools. My saddle (my rope is usually attached) on a stand with the bosal over the horn.(Some of you probly prefer the snaffle and this is ok.) my blankets over that, and my halter laying on top. ( I use a cowboy halter or rope halter with a 12-16 foot lead rope. I also have another cowboy halter with a long lunge line tied in laying under the saddle rack so as not to entangle the horse.) I have my lunge whip(rarely used)lying flat on the ground, beside my sorting stick.(Simple fiberglass pole used for sorting cattle with a rubber tip. This is not one that makes noise with a paddle on the end.) Some of your horses will be somewhat halter broke. Others well you get em in the pen. You can start without all the tools in the pen on a really rangy colt but I like having them there. I'll let the colt in the pen and just let him work himself a lil bit say 15 min to half an hour. If he wants to play with my tools great. I want him/her comfortable. Horses not haveing much human contact before I get them in may first learn of me while I am standing at the gate watching and studying them. I won't look them in the eye. Only a predator will try to stare them down on initial contact. I'm usually also talking to someone or humming. This gets them used to my voice. Once I know the animal is not going to toss itself against the fence, I will enter the pen in a neutral type stance, being careful I am not driving the animal. I want the animal comfortable as I move into the center. With some, I have had to wait just inside the gate and take it one step at a time ,so they didn't throw themselves into the fence and hurt themselves. Neutral position I heard once referred to as "making yourself small". I think I am trying to cram myself through a 1 foot door. My shoulders are drooped forward with back slightly bent, I am watching the animals lower body but my head is down where he cant see my eyes for my hat. On occasion I have had a horse charge although this is rare. When this happens simply erect your body and come eye to eye with the animal. You may even raise your hands and make a noise or yell to convince the animal to back off("Making yourself big." has been used for this) and with your eyes up you know if and when to move. This type of animal may need more of a hand than some of you reading this are ready to be yet. With most horse who are already used to human contact I will go ahead and pick up my sorting stick here and lean on it( if you only have a whip use it. like the stick holdint the loong pooer to the whip itself. Some of you may want to only use a rope. I explain the use of this further along in the series.) I want the horse to stand and watch. If he moves off I will take the neutral position while leaning on my stick and wait for the horse to stop on his own.. I didn't ask him to move so at this point I will let him figure out I am not a threat and stop on his own. If he starts to challenge the pen or gate I will simply drop the stick and keep my neutral position ( I can wait all day I got a saddle to sit on and usually someone around to bring me a drink of tea if I need it. Otherwise they are outside quietly sitting away from the pen where they can watch). When he is calm I will ask for his attention. I will ask for attention by standing up erect and raising my eyes to his nose first. Wild colts will panic if you go looking into the eye first. If still if the horse doesn't look at me I will go for the eye but I still haven't moved my feet or my sorting stick. Ok he still won't look at me I will keep my sorting stick down in a non threatening position and take a step forward of the horses head not towards his head. If he looks at me I will resume my neutral position. Take one step back to where I was. If he leaves me I will go back to the center and start over.This step I will repeat over and over until I can get his attention without his leaving me. Anytime he looks away I step back forward in his eye to get his attention back. This usually doesn't take very long on a domesticated horse however don't negate this step. I spent years knowing how to work a horse freely and refused to do it because it took more time than I wanted. I wonder just how much better some of those horses who had great careers (Some not so great but were still good horses), could have been had I known then what I teach today. He should start to follow you with his eye and you can start taking a few steps back or to the side without him leaving you. If he follows you this is great but, the minute he goes to leave, go back to neutral in the center and start over. The minute he quits looking at you get back in his eye. Notice I have yet to raise my stick. I usually haven't tried to pet this horse at this point either as we are not yet acquainted you see. You gotta waltz with the girl before you can try to kiss her so to speak.(Sorry Buck couldn't resist.)Next we want our horse to move forward. Now up till now I have been watching the horses head or eye for the most part,an and keeping a mostly neutral position as I have moved around the pen. I now need this horse to move away from me so I will take an direct step back and towards the tail as I change my eye focus to the horses hind quarters. And I will make my erect (see making yourself big) as I step towards that thigh, Pointing with the hand closest to the horses head as I kiss( Generally the way the horse is pointed is the way I ask for in these early stages also some folks will ask for a walk, trot, ect... However if he trots off when you say walk what did he learn. If we keep it simple early without adding bad habits we can always add this later in the game), and lifting my stick lifting the stick only enough for the horse to move. Now right here some of you will need to get loud and maybe spin the stick towards the hindquarters. Others may need to stop and change to the whip not to hit the horse but to pop behind the horse. I have even used bags but I try to reserve those for use later. STILL OTHERS may need to back off immediately and take the neutral position in the middle to avoid the horse panicking. Whenever the horse gives you the slightest movement forward you make yourself small to the center and wait for a stop. Your horse wants to stop and that is his reward so to speak. One thing I have failed to mention so far is once the horse gets what you want he will lick his lips and most will drop they're head slightly. This is a herd maneuver saying "OK I got it." I look for this in between every step. I must have it before I move on. On Driving your horse which is what you are now doing. Go slow as you need to to keep the horse from panicking and trying the, fence, the gate or you. And stay calm and confident maybe even pretend you have done this hundreds of times before. My stick while I am driving at a walk is constantly moving a small low circle at a walk with my feet keeping time with the horse as we stay in the driving position. Caution here if you get to close you may get kicked so stay outside the fight zone ok!!!! When he is comfortable walking and you guys have figured out that cue you can now advance to a Trot my stick will raise slightly still pointing at the hip maybe swinging it over my hand slowly a time or two and picking up the pace with my feet. Once he gets it moving I'll go back to my neutral position in the center and wait for him to stop(SEE REWARD AGAIN) The same principle will apply to the lope or canter.Don't go too fast make sure the horse understands each gait, and you can get a lap or 2 or 3 without any bobbles at each gait. A simple change of direction can be achieved by moving 180 degrees across the pen and blocking that path making yourself Erect enough not to get run over. If you cut this too short you will send the horse against the fence or over you. Panic mode and you gotta start again. Another change harder to achieve would be as the horse stops now try stepping back, keeping your body in the neutral position and try to draw the horse towards you, Changing hands with the stick behind your back. As he comes towards your position to drive from this side and start again slowly. A horse is a two sided creature who doesn't always get what happened on the other side of his body. Also now that your horse is learning to stop when you go back to neutral central simply say whoa just as he stops. Now I know some of you are way past this. That is great. MAKE IT BETTER,. Now for a short message. 1Tim 2: 1-5 "I exhort the therefore, that , first of all supplications, prayers, intercessions, and giving of thanks, be made to all men. 2 For kings ,and for all that are in authority; that we may lead a quiet and peaceable lifein all Godliness and honesty. 3 For this is good and acceptable in the sight of God our Saviour; 4 Who will have all men be saved, and come unto the knowledge of the truth. 5 For there is one God, and one mediator between God and men, the man Jesus Christ. "Thank you Lord for the blessing of being able to share these lessons with others as you have had others teach me." Ronnie Next I will go over first approaches.

Introductions

2006-08-21T08:35:00.000-07:00

Hi I am Range Ridin aka Ronnie Cook. After training horses the old harsh ways I came to realize ther was a better way. It is my hope to share that with you here. Horsemanship is not just a abstract philosophy but is a tangiable tool to make you and the horse better attuned to the needs of the other. Peaple call it "Natural Horsemanship"," a feel"," a dance",ect, ect, ect.... I guess all those things do apply but it doesn't really tell you what it is because one word just won't do it. It is not a quick fix (most horseman are ever getting better and a great horse takes years of training the right way to reach his utmost potential.) or a gimmick. (although there are alot of peaple out there trying to use it as a gimmick.) What horsemanship is to me, is the way God intended us to be with these animals. It is a partnership and bond between two of God's creatures to get the job done that needs to be done. A partnership of trust on both sides and a bond to be there for each other when everything falls apart. In other words God says he'll never leave you or forsake you but he is there for the long haul. You are saying the same to that horse and the horse to you. Most horses give more than they're human counterpart ever does. And the human rarely admits the mistake was his and not the horse. However I believe this is changing as peaple are starting not only learn to look at it from the horses point of view but are starting to use the horse sense that we lost as we industrialized our world and no longer needed our trusty steed. Riding and/or training horses is much like training a child. First you must build a trust, train the child in what he must do and give them the opportunity to make a mistake. I wonder how many parents whipped the child for pooping his diaper before he was potty broke. So why beat a horse about the head and spur him till blood runs out because he won't turn over his hocks or do a flying lead change when you haven't taught them how to do that yet? Each manouver is a building block for the next one. As I share some of our blocks, including leg,body and hand positions as well as horse position, with you here over the next months, years, whatever, remember always reward the smallest try . We will also be posting some stuff just for arena ropers. Why? Because the really great ropers have horses who know most of this stuff. We are gonna try to break this down from beginner to advanced so if you are farther along than we are please email me or message me on the side to let me know where you are at. Alot of the material we are posting here is our own material, learned from others, which is awaiting copyright so please be respectful. Next week we'll start with our"ground work series" redundant but well worth your time. Till then Ride the Range with God