EDWIN Surplus Capsule Collection

EDWIN have just released their newest collection, namely the Surplus Capsule Collection. EDWIN is one of the biggest names in denim and is well known for a consistently producing a wide variety of raw, washed denim, and non-denim clothing. With the Surplus Capsule Collection, they’ve set out to create a more minimalistic collection that focuses tightly on using unique and dead-stock fabrics.

EDWIN 14.5oz Pure Indigo Dyed Selvedge Denim

The Surplus Capsule Collection features several styles of pants, denim, and shirts that are all unwashed and have little extra trims besides for a subtle ‘+’ symbol. Their denim selection includes a 14.5oz pure indigo dyed selvedge jean, 11oz light weight organic jean, and a 12.5oz black (black warp/white weft) jean. While the majority of the pieces are traditional and minimal, a couple standouts include a blanket Japanese denim chino and a hickory stripe denim 3 button jacket.

To those familiar with EDWIN, this collection does not stray too far from what is already available from the brand. The combination of simple styling, lower price point, and quality fabrics should interest those seeking items that can be easily integrated into the everyday wardrobe.

The Surplus Capsule Collection can be found in various stockists in Europe as well as online.

Details of EDWIN Selvedge Denim and Blanket Denim

EDWIN Blanket Japanese Denim Chino

EDWIN Hickory Stripe Jacket and Japanese Black Chambray Shirt

The post EDWIN Surplus Capsule Collection – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

BEAMS

BEAMS x Levi’s 513 Fit

BEAMS feel particular pride in the moderate inseam of the jean, maintaining the moderately tapered characteristic 513 fit. They also appear to have enjoyed the back design, highlighting the vertical arrangement of the pocket which contour nicely around the hip and look visually quite clean. Further, there’s an elegantly designed collaborative patch spinning off of the traditional Levi’s patch to include the BEAMS title. The jean will be releasing this fall in both a rinsed indigo denim and a black denim for around $130, or ¥12,600.

BEAMS x Levi’s Details

Details:

• Name: Levi’s x BEAMS 513 Straight Raw Denim
  
• Weight: Currently Unknown
• Fit: Medium Rise, Slightly Tapered Straight Leg
• Denim: Rinsed Japanese Selvedge Denim
• Available at: Levi’s Japan for ¥12,600

The post Levi’s x BEAMS 513 Straight Raw Denim – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Lennaert Nijgh from Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) recently took us through a preview of his new 2013 Fall/Winter collection, which should be released this coming August. This collection is based on three different cuts, the BDD-006, BDD-047 and BDD-071; each of which is presented individually below.

Since Nijgh finished his education at the Asmterdam Fashion Institute, he has been collecting experience working at denim stores as well as more recently in product development for a handful Dutch brands. Now feeling ripe for this new challenge, Nijgh is confident in his abilities as he launches his new collection. As he says, “I don’t create fashion. Instead, I create timeless products.” Let’s see.

The BDD-006

Details

• Denim: Selvedge denim, right hand twill
• Weight: 14.7 oz.
• Fit: Slim fit top block, slim legs, slightly tapered
• Other details:
  • Extra dipped yarns
  • Tight weaving construction
  • Unwashed and sanforized

The BDD-047

Details

• Denim: Selvedge denim, left hand twill
• Weight: 13.5 oz.
• Fit: Regular fit top block, straight legs
• Other details:
  • Unwashed, sanforized
  • 3 different yarns used in the warp to create an irregular structure
  • Brown weft color

The BDD-710

Details

• Denim: selvedge denim, Left hand twill
• Weight: 14.7 oz.
• Fit: Regular fit top block, Tapered legs
• Other details:
  • Unwashed, sanforized
  • Zimbabwe cotton
  • Greencast color

While each is clearly different, the jeans do share a number of unifying BDD characteristics which we’ve illustrated below. Specifically, the hidden coin pocket, Union Special chainstitched hems, debossed leather patch and chambray lined pockets are all aspects highlighting BDD‘s commitment to detailed finishing.

Asymmetrical back pocket

Button fly detailing

Hidden pocket

Beltloops stitched under waistband

Union Special chainstitched hems

Reversed debossed leather patch

Chambray lined backpockets

Rivet details

The post Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) 2013 Collection – Sneak Preview appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – EAT DUST Fit 67 (21 Months, 1 Wash)

Antwerp, Belgium may seem like an unlikely place to start a denim brand, but that is exactly where Eat Dust denim calls home. Founded by friends, Keith and Rob, who share a passion Harley Davidson motorcycle and denim, Eat Dust has been producing quality, unwashed selvedge jeans for a few years now. Since their launch, they’ve managed to whittle their offerings down to three fits and truly focus on producing only the highest quality products.

Marking the first Fade Friday feature on Eat Dust, this week showcases a well-worn pair of the Belgian line’s Fit 67 that belongs to one of our readers, Olaf. After being worn for 21 months and washed just once in cold water, we see a nice set of deep, high-contrast fades.

Interestingly enough, though the jeans have been worn for almost 2 years, they seemingly still have a lot of life left in them and are sure to hold up well over many wears to come. Also, contrary to denim folklore that claims raw denim must be worn tight to achieve “proper” fades, these jeans have developed clean, clear contrast lines despite the relatively loose fit.

Details

• Name: Eat Dust Fit 67
• Weight: 13 – 14 Oz.
• Fit: Loose straight
• Denim: Double ring spun Japanese indigo selvedge denim
• Other Details:
  • Reinforced back pockets
  • Signature Z-bar stitching
  • Faded copper buttons and hardware with Eat Dust logo
  • Heavy Cotton pockets
  • Triple stitching featured throughout for added durability
• Available at: Eat Dust for €189.00

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – EAT DUST Fit 67 (21 Months, 1 Wash) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Nudie Jeans Organic Pima Grim Tim Selvedge

Nudie Jeans arguably helped push raw denim into the spotlight with their many cuts, fabrics, price-point as well as their ideology popularizing the idea that raw denim shouldn’t be washed for long periods of time. Since breaking onto the scene 14 years ago, the brand hailing from Sweden has consistently released new models of jeans in myriad fabrics; including their most recently released, the Grim Tim Organic PIMA selvedge denim.

Front and Back of Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic PIMA Selvedge

Pima cotton is an Extra Long Staple (ELS) cotton that is known for its durability, strength, and softness; making it more commonly used in higher-end bedding and shirts. Nudie first sources their organic pima from a small farm in New Mexico, USA, weaves the cotton into selvedge fabric in Japan, before finally stitching the fabric together in Italy. The result is a 13.5oz denim that has a slightly streaky appearance and will break in nicely over just a few wears.

Details on the Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic PIMA Selvedge jeans

Limited to just 480 pairs, the jean is only being sold in their webshop and in various concept stores. Each pair is numbered from 1-480 on the leather patch and boxed with an informational booklet about their organic pima cotton. They also feature many of the typical details seen in Nudie‘s previous selvedge releases, such as branded silver buttons and rivets as well as a selvedge coin pocket.

After 2 weeks of wear

Details:

• Name: Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic PIMA Selvedge
• Weight: 13.5 Oz.
• Fit: Mid/Low-Rise, Slim Taper Leg
• Denim: Japanese selvedge denim made from PIMA cotton
• Other Details:
  • Sewn in Italy
  • Selvedge coin pocket
  • Silver branded buttons and rivets
  • Limited to 480 pairs
  • Numbered leather patch
• Available at: Nudie Webstore for $265.00 USD

The post Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic PIMA Selvage – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

One of the oldest debates among denim heads has always been the concept and technique of the wash. Or more specifically, when, how and if at all you should wash your jeans. There have been convincing arguments on the side of never washing your jeans though there is also plenty of weight behind the side arguing for the more frequent washing of jeans.

While this momentous decision is often up to the wearer, one common ground we can all reach is to use a sensible solution for keeping your jeans fresh and clean for as long as you can. This solution comes in two specially formulated options from the Australian company, Mr. Black.

The first of the two products being offered is Mr. Black’s Denim Wash. As the name entails, this is the stuff you want to use if and when you decide to wash your raw denim. The product is formulated so that your denim retains more of its original color and shading throughout each wash, all while minimizing shrinkage and any unpleasant garment stretching.

The second product offered up from Mr. Black is their Denim Refresh; ideal for those who are more reluctant about washing their jeans. In my personal opinion this may just beat out the traditional shake out and freezer methods for sprucing your jeans up.

The formula that is used in Denim Refresh is intended to prevent dirt, oils, and other undesirables from settling in to the fibers of the denim, thus reducing funky odors that sometimes spring up after prolonged wearing.

Having launched just under a year ago in July 2012, Mr. Black is still a fairly new brand on the scene and yet to make a mark. After some investigation though, it seems they are beginning to gather momentum with their growing number of stockists. For a full re-cap of the company and their current offerings, watch the video below.

The post Mr. Black Garment Essentials – Keeping Your Denim Clean and Fresh appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Jason Heath in his natural habitat

I’ve been pitching the idea of interviewing Los Angeles repair shop, Denim Doctors & Hollywood Trading Company, for some time now. What makes this shop different is the care and exceptional detail they give every pair of jeans that passes through their doors.

They offer hole repairs, full leg tapers, hems, patchwork and even boot repair, all while running their store as a small “home-like” boutique; selling vintage items including denim jackets, shirts, leather belts and boots.

As I’ve personally had work done at the shop multiple times and never walked away disappointed, it was a pleasure to sit down with store manager, Jason Heath, for a bit of a chat. I’ve met Heath countless times before this interview, and have always been impressed with his wealth of experience pertaining to denim repair, as well as his strong interest in vintage products.

RD: So Jason, what is raw denim for you?

JH: Raw denim is everything to me, being a denim enthusiast that’s pretty much all that we wear around the store. That comes from Zip Stevenson’s inspirations, you’ll never see Zip wearing anything but raw denim.

RD: Knowing that Zip is sole owner of the company, how did Denim Doctors/HTC start?

JH: It first started up in 1994, when I was still pretty young and still in grade school. It started up from Zip’s passion for all types of denim. Denim Doctors started up first and then later expanded with the addition of Hollywood Trading Company (HTC). He’s always loved denim and anything vintage so those two went hand-in-hand for him.

Hollywood Trading Company’s Boot Wall

RD: What makes you different from the other denim repair shops in the Los Angeles area?

JH: What’s unique about us is that we’re actually two stores in one. Denim Doctors resides inside HTC which is something I don’t think you can find elsewhere in California. Denim Doctors is as good as it gets. We get work in the mail from Japan, Europe and all over the country – New York, Texas, Florida, even middle of nowhere North Dakota for our repairs.

As a store we also carry various brands like Sunny Sports, Velva Sheen and our very own HTC  high quality leather belts made with a kick-press. The thing about them is that they look “vintage but are new,” which in itself gives it added value.

RD: Speaking about your belts, I’ve noticed you recently had a collaboration with Self Edge down the street. Can you elaborate on that?

JH: Yes, we make a lot of belts for various different companies, like Self Edge, which is a lot of fun. Our most popular belts are the p-53 which we nickname the “Peanut” belt. It is made from 100% Cowhide Black Leather and hand applied Nickel Studs.

Wall of Belts

RD: Having had so many of my personal pairs of denim repaired so well at this store, I’m curious – what’s your repair methodology?

JH: Well, there are some secrets that we’ll keep. I will say that everything is worked on by hand on vintage sewing machines. We also have thousands of pairs of scrap denim in stock so if your jeans have a rip on them we’ll cut materials from a scrap pair that is similar and fill in the missing piece with the right color and texture.

The invisible repair is probably the most popular thing that we do. What we do is fill in the missing piece with a similar martial. The material is neither inside or outside, it just literally fills in the hole. Then we add a thin backing layer made out of a gauze-like material and finally stitch it down while following the grain of the jean so it’s camouflaged as well as possible.

One of my favorite things though, is that if you have vintage items like 1930-40′s pairs or a Levis’s Type I denim jacket, we actually have vintage denim to do the repairs with. We don’t put new denim in there, we would cut the scrap pair and replace it in so it’s all from the same time period.

Denim Doctors Alterations: Before (Left) and After (Right)

RD: Knowing your store has such a large interest in vintage items, what do you think is your rarest item in the store?

JH: Hands down one of my favorites are two sample pairs of Mini-Levi’s. Back in the day Levi’s would create a very small fit to scale model which is completely propositional to scale. The minis are actually from 1937 and were given to stores by traveling salesmen.

When a salesman would go to a store to do a pitch, they would leave a mini pair for the owner as a gift, and also so the owner could see a good model of the jean. Apparently it was easier than lugging around a pair of the jeans; plus in the event that the owner wasn’t present when the salesman arrived, he could leave a pair behind for the owner to see when he/she returned. The funny thing is customers usually think they’re for a baby or something!

1937 501XX Mini-Levi’s

RD: Any last words?

JH: That’s a good question, any parting words for Mr. Ramos. Honestly, Denim Doctors & Hollywood Trading Company is my passion. It’s really a unique place, and if anything it would be worth your time to come down and take a look. I also consider it a little slice of going back in time when you get in here.

RD: That’s some great insight Jason, always remember – Stay Raw!

JH: I like that – Stay Raw!

The post Interview – Jason Heath, Denim Doctors & Hollywood Trading Company appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

The GRO Project – The Intersection Between Craftsmanship And Streetwear

In following their brand mantra, “Stay inspired and always go after your passion before trend,”  The GRO Project have developed their own right hand twill selvedge denim marrying American denim craftsmanship with their drive to create a high quality streetwear garment. The finished product is Cardinal Denim, a one model brand with iterations in the denim as GRO looked around the world to source the best possible mills and manufacturers.

The initial inspiration for the Cardinal Denim was the White Oak 1968 Cone Red Selvedge, a high quality denim made in the USA. This fit nicely within the bounds of a traditional selvedge denim and a vintage look and feel; qualities which were being actively sought after. Having then tweaked the fit, which we will touch on, Cardinal Denim had the choice to either hold firm with their one quality product, or actively push harder and go further abroad.

The GRO Project – Cardinal Denim

Clearly, extending the Cardinal to other mills was the right choice. Next up was a trip to Italy, during which the Candiani Mill captured GRO‘s attention due to innovative and sustainable practices. This eco-friendly, 100% organic cotton denim quickly became the second iteration of the Cardinal, providing a denim which harmonizes between comfortable construction and maintained rigidity, all without any synthetic additions.

Finally, the Cardinal took itself to the quality denim hotbed, and streetwear mecca, of Japan, where two further denims were added. Both an aqua and a black speckled denim from the legendary Kuroki mill were given the Cardinal treatment. The Kuroki process is considered widely to be one of the best in the world, having refined their ability to bridge past and present techniques down to an art, making it a natural step for the Denver, Colorado brand to take.

The GRO Project’s Cardinal Denim Fit

With four high quality international denims behind it, Cardinal is certainly a denim to be reckoned with, but would have been little without a highly designed fit. The fit is, in the most simple terms, a take on the original straight leg cut, with slight tapering at the ankles.

Part of the original goal of the Cardinal was to avoid the slim and skinny denim trends, but still make a jean that would be wearable for just about anyone. The resulting fit seems to accomplish this nicely, creating a streetwear accessible jean that doesn’t conform to the modern slim trend.

Selvedge Lined Belt Loops

A secondary pride point of the jean’s design lies in the storage and drying functionality, specifically in the waistline dry tag and front two belt loops. The dry tag is comprised of a sturdy micro suede material, while GRO incorporated selvedge into the front two belt loops in the form of a holster-loop stitch.

As a result, the wearer has several options of properly hanging the denim for storage or post-wash drying purposes. As well, the denim is strengthened against traditional belt-wear as well as when attaching accessories from the loops.

Micro Suede Hang Dry Tag

The Cardinal is available at Blue Jeans Bar for those in the Denver, CO or San Jose, CA area or by phone order (970-429-8028).

The post The GRO Project – Melding Craftsmanship And Streetwear appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

i love ugly Japanese Selvedge

New Zealand-based company i love ugly has been making waves recently in the menswear game, working its way from obscurity to regular appearances on Hypebeast and similar style sites within a year. Making it in North America and Japan from a New Zealand origin is no small feat, but i love ugly were able to accomplish it.

To make it that much more surprising, until now their collection was missing a denim offering. Highly anticipated among those following the brand, they’ve finally turned this around and have released their first run of jeans.

While sometimes a jean added late into a fashion collection can seem forced, i love ugly recognize the art of crafting a perfect jean, explaining their pursuit with the following quote.

Jeans are a form of art, right down to the cut, style, colour, stitching and zippers. We’ve kept this in mind and used Japanese Selvedge Denim and assembled it in Beijing by skilled denim craftsman.

Given the way they’ve stormed through menswear, I see no reason not to expect them to become a well recognized force in denim in the coming months.

Unlike some standard denim models, i love ugly, has opted to pepper a range of details throughout this denim – including the additional pen pocket above the left pocket, back pocket loop, and triple stitched hem.

However, one department that they may need to rework is the sizing of the jean. They’re currently sized in a S/M/L/XL/XXL format, which gives the jean a more relaxed fit for most people. Of course, there’s always the option of sizing down a bit, but you’ll want to pay attention to the measurements section of the online store.

Details

Details:

• Name: i love ugly Japanese Selvedge Denim
  
• Weight: 12 Oz.
• Fit: Tapered fit
• Denim: Japanese selvedge denim
• Further Details:
  • Osaka lining
  • Custom embossed button fly “when nothing goes right go left”
  • Genuine leather patch “I Love Ugly denim – made to wear”
  • Back pocket loop
  • Coin pocket on right side
  • Pen pocket on left side
  • Embossed rivets
  • Triple stitched cross hem
• Available at: i love ugly for $220.00 NZD

The post i love ugly Raw Selvedge Denim – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Burg & Schild – Denim, Vintage Wares and Motorcycles

Many people love the fact that a store can reflect the authenticity of the people behind it, a perfect example being Berlin-based retailer Burg & Schild. The shop was founded in 2007 by Kay Knipschild and Shane Brandenburg, whom during this time also launched the Red Wing Store in Berlin and Hamburg.

Burg & Schild Interior

Brandenburg describes his shop as “an authentic and consequent mens store with jeans and vintage from the heart”, which is exactly what someone feels when walking inside the store. Authenticity with considerable heart.

Burg & Schild retails brands like Tellason, Eat Dust, Pike Brothers, Viberg Boots, Our Legacy, 3sixteen, Buzz Ricksons, Aero Leather, Pendelton, Edwin and Stetson. Despite the abundance of brands the shop has in stock, Brandenburg keeps a special place for four brands that has been with him – and support of him – since the start of the store. Each holds a particular story.

Indigofera, a small Swedish brand, has supported Burg & Schild since the very beginning. Brandenburg and Mats Anderson, owner of Indigofera, became good friends through the years, consolidating a strong relation in and outside business.

Davida helmets and Pendelton blankets

Indigofera jeans with handmade Zip Stevenson belt

Red Wing Shoes, the American boot maker, showed their ties with the store by manufacturing a collaborative model. Burg & Schild is the only store in Europe that have their own model, the 2007, referring to the opening year of the store. This boot is limited to a 100 pair run.

Red Wing 2007, the only collaboration in Europe

The third brand that Brandenburg offers with close ties is Mister Freedom. Visiting L.A. at least once per year, Brandberg and Burg & Shild keep a great relationship with Mister Freedom‘s Christophe Loiron. Brandenburg admires his natural “coolness” and the way his authenticity is accurately reflected in his clothes.

Mister Freedom and Stetson

Last, but by no means the least, is Stetson; who was in support of Brandenburg prior to opening his shop and have produced a special hat for Burg & Schild.

There are several other notable collaborations Burg & Schild has created with important brands. For example, to commemorate their fifth anniversary, they released the Black / Black Kaihara Raw Denim with Edwin, a pair of Model 2007 boots with Red Wing, and black bandana together with Indigofera.

Collaborations wall Edwin, Stetson, Red Wing, Indigofera and the Anniversary T-shirt

Not to pigeonhole themselves as just a retailer of jeans, the store also carries a selected collection of vintage garment; curated by Brandenburg every year at the Rose Bowl Flea Market in California. What once started as a hobby, vintage goods have now become an important part of the selection offered by the shop. Deck jackets, leather coats, motorcycle jackets, CPO jackets, flannels, belts, t-shirts, helmets and much more find their way across the Atlantic to Burg & Schild’s shelves.

Vintage leather jackets

Vintage deck jacket and accessories

Brandenburg can’t hide his excitement when he talks about motorcycles. He admits to be a crazy about them, and as proof there is a fabulous motorcycle on display at the store. He himself designed the bike using a Knucklehead 1945 as a base before having it built by “Motortechnic Mfg.” “I’m in love with that bike, it is everything that I wanted, exactly…” he explains before sets out to describe and explain all the customization involved on it.

The motorcycle that Brandenburg designed, based on a Knucklehead 1945

Burg & Schild exudes an interesting authenticity that is a melting pot of various eras and sub-cultures from the last century. If Berlin is ever on your radar of cities to visit, do yourself a favor and drop by shop.

The post Burg & Schild – Denim, Vintage Wares and Motorcycles appeared first on RawrDenim.com.