Coffee Shops

We know Seoul is the coffee shop capital of the world* on every corner and each one with a personality. Our first Seoul coffee shop was Coffee Libre, with its brilliant wrestler theme. Then there was Hit Coffee, with its beautifully branded cups, and Conhas Coffee  up a lot of steps near the Design Museum, playing 1920s music throughout. That wasn't even the only jazz-adjacent discovery of the trip; Cafe EoE served me a cinnamon cappuccino while gentle jazz drifted around us. Seoul still has the coffee game well and truly mastered.

One of the loveliest experiences of the whole trip was at Gwanjang Market on a Monday morning. Ilho Coffee operates takeout only, had a constant queue, is run by a barista champion, and had the most warm service. It's the kind of place that reminds you why you seek these things out.

Yes, I came across another Ralph Lauren café  and yes, it was probably the priciest coffee of the trip. Still love it.

Seoul is also a city that has Dunkin' and that pleased me enormously. There's a Tim Hortons too, but the one evening we were in the right neighbourhood for a nightcap, it had already closed at 9. Dunkin' across the road it was - though "across the road" is generous when you're navigating wide Seoul intersections. The branch was staffed rather delightfully by older ladies, and the whole experience felt a little like popping round to your aunt's and being handed a sugary warm drink slightly too close to bedtime. I didn't mind at all.

Blue Bottle first visited in Singapore and revisited in Tokyo last year,  was pleasant if uneventful. Although I did love that they write on the trays here so staff know who to deliver to. Ours translated, roughly, to 'Western Couple.' That obvious, were we?

After wandering the traditional houses of Bukchon Hanok Village in the Jongno district, we stopped at Oat Coffee,  exactly what you want after all those beautiful, maze-like lanes. And Kossette, another one up some steps, came as a reward after the brilliant BBC Earth shop discovery (more on that shortly).

Art and Quirks

We braved the wind and cold (don’t let the beautiful blue sky we enjoyed every day) to see all 24 Walls of Art, an exercise in free public art that brought together 24 designers, including our very own Stella McCartney. From the sprawling red heart on the steps of the Design Museum to 'people creations' on benches to moving art installations in office block walkways, there is always something for the mind to focus on (other than our issues and challenges). This, together with the city's focus on nature, seating everywhere and late-opening bookshops that look like galleries, makes the country so accessible.

Food

This trip, our mission was more Korean food. On our first night, we took the simplest possible approach: we walked down our hotel stairs and into a local place for a very enjoyable pot rice dish. Mission accomplished immediately.

One of the genuine surprises was revisiting the office tower we'd found for food last time. It's worth the reminder: always look up at office buildings in Seoul. This time we ate at Dehou, a Chinese restaurant inside and the surprise within the surprise is that I'm not generally a huge fan of Chinese food, yet this place was a complete delight. The walkway out afterwards gave us beautiful moving art to stroll through, which felt like a rather extravagant bonus.

Thai food is my favourite, but Thai 24 was my least impressive meal of the trip, but at least we had one Thai experience.

Bills, a firm favourite from Tokyo, turned up again inside the enormous Lotte shopping centre. Always lovely to see a familiar plate.

Agra was a wonderful memory from 2018, and although they'd moved, we tracked down a branch in a shopping centre. The food was still great, even iif served with slightly less fanfare than before.

When nothing more flavourful could be found for dinner one evening, a decent bowl of pasta at Pomodoro did the job perfectly well. Seoul's shopping centres really are self-contained worlds.

And then there was the meal of the trip: TanTan Noodles at Hyundai in Yeouido. So good that we went back the very next day. 

Shops

Shopping in South Korea is as endless as it is in Tokyo. From the largest department store in Seoul, Hyundai in Yeouido, to the largest store in Busan, Shinsegae, which is less a department store and more an entire district that has simply decided to be under one roof.

First stop is always Muji, even more so since our local branch closed. I go with a list and come back with innovations. Walking into the first Muji of the trip on a Sunday morning, it very much felt like going to church.

Innisfree, once one of my favourite brands, has left me a little cold. We know from our previous visit to Seoul just how intense the shop assistants can be in skincare stores. What was comical in 2018 had become irritating. I tried several branches, timing my entries for the busier moments hoping to browse in peace, but they seemed to breed staff specifically for the purpose. One was always following me, and I was particularly irked by being steered repeatedly towards anti-ageing products. I am, for the record, very pro-ageing. I eventually bought some masks in Busan, but I won't be returning to this brand in Korea. I do hope I'll feel differently when I encounter it in Malaysia and I have such warm memories of first discovering it in Hong Kong, with wonderful service.

The best skincare experience of the trip was going direct to the source at Skin1004. The service was excellent, exactly as the reviews said and I bought a travel pack that we both tried once we reached Busan. I had fully intended to return and buy the full-sized products on our way back through Seoul, but my heart wasn't in covering the old ground. As it turned out, my favourite online beauty shop Beauty & Seoul had a sale on when I returned which meant I paid the same price from home. [Update: I’ve since discovered it has arrived in Boots and so it's already hitting the mainstream.]

It’s always great to see Body Shop and Lush abroad too.

The surprise discovery of the entire trip? BBC Earth Shops. Spotted entirely by chance down a side street in Hannam. That unmistakable BBC logo pulling me into an amazing array of Korean-inspired wares. I bought the bag I went in for, replacing my well-worn one, plus an uncharacteristic hoodie. I assumed I would wear it infrequently, having bought it partly for my pink-themed Board Away Day on Valentine's Day. It was pink wool, it had 'Earth' on it, and it supports sustainability. I have worn it constantly.

And Finally: Toilets

My memory from the last visit was that public toilets are never far away in Seoul and this held true. Not all were Japanese-style toilets - or as they say in Korea, bidet toilets - but virtually every subway station had facilities, as did every shopping centre, department store, and office block (which, given how many restaurants are tucked inside them, makes perfect sense). I didn't once have to plan a coffee shop stop around the facilities.

Seoul; still inspiring

January 2025

The first of three hotels on this South Korea trip, and our longest stay, so we went with space. The ENA Suite is located in Namdaemun, a couple of minutes' walk from City Hall station, if you come out of the right exit.

Rather delightfully, we arrived to find snow on the ground. What I hadn't counted on was side-stepping ice as we dragged our cases up the hill for those couple of minutes to the entrance. Even more surprisingly, none of this ice was cleared by the businesses lining the route during our entire stay.

The ENA is a thoroughly modern hotel, right down to the digital doorbell and housekeeping sign, with superb staff on reception and everything we needed. We specifically look for hotels with laundrettes and needed some help with this; staff rushed straight upstairs to assist without hesitation.

We specifically look for hotels with laundrettes and needed some help with this; staff rushed straight upstairs to assist without hesitation.

The Room

The room had exactly the space we came for: a good-sized bed, sofa, large desk and a comfy chair, plus bedside tables, one of which had a drawer. Further storage came by way of a wardrobe with another drawer, plus one in the fridge unit.

I mention drawers specifically because they are increasingly rare in hotels and I have never fathomed why. Here, they were very welcome.

There is also a handy shelf under the large wall-mounted TV, plus a windowsill to spread out a little more. A new hotel tends to have plenty of plug sockets and USBs, and this one delighted us further by including a UK socket, meaning we never had to unpack our adaptors once.

Bathroom

The bathroom also had ample storage.

Wall-mounted shower gel, shampoo and conditioner, and rather randomly, a small C.O. Bigelow body lotion. In the land of skincare, I was surprised to find anything other than Korean brands on the shelf.

Various other amenities were, sadly, unnecessarily wrapped in single-use plastic where paper would have done just fine. Better still; have them available on request only, as other hotels have started to do (see Tokyo).

Two bath towels, two hand towels and a bath mat.

Best of all: a Japanese toilet. Or as they more commonly call it here, a bidet toilet. Always a highlight.

Food and Drink

A kettle with instant coffee and standard teas, and two mugs. Breakfast was lacklustre, so we supplemented whatever we could manage to eat there with our first coffee stop of the day.

Amenities

Fridge, safe, hairdryer, and rather lovely bath robes, along with slippers.

The pavement outside could have done with a little more attention, but the ENA Suite delivered on every front and set the bar nicely for the two hotels to come. 

January 2025

This is the best hotel room I have stayed in recent months.

Apart from being a spacious room with a separate bedroom and views over Lisbon, it offered many of the features lacking in modern hotels:

• Bedside tables - on both sides with drawers

• Wardrobe - in bedroom

• Hand towel rail - on the sink unit

• Bidet - with its own towels on a rail

• Spare blankets in the wardrobe

• Drawers, drawer, drawers! By the bedside, in the wardrobe and the desk, plus a cupboard in the lounge

• Easily controllable heat

• Fridge

The location, while having the views, had a downside, as it meant trekking up and down steep slippery hills each day, but the wonderful room was a good payoff.

The breakfast was average, but acceptable and the service was excellent.

November 2025

A return to Lisbon for the beloved’s birthday celebration, exactly seven years after the first trip. The city feels different; it was more challenging.

Our hotel was located atop a hill near the castle, which we never ended up visiting, but it offered stunning views. However, when we arrived at the train station with our luggage, we found ourselves searching for a way to reach the hotel. The only option we encountered was a long, steep hill to climb. Our initial information indicated that no cars could reach the hotel, but after our arduous trek, we learned that this was misleading. While cars cannot park directly outside the hotel, they can park just a few minutes' walk away. It was truly a case of getting lost in translation. On our way back, we decided to book an Uber instead.

Despite or because of the location, our street had restaurants, including fine dining establishments. We decided on a local restaurant for the first night. It was expensive, the fish was chewy and almost inedible, and for most of the evening, several police officers appeared to be in the restaurant doing an audit like it was the most normal thing to do on a Friday night.

I recall hills and steps and lifts but I don’t recall the pavements being so slippery; it was incredibly unsteady to walk at times, which both slowed me down and put me on edge.

I missed the opportunity to buy a local decorative ceramic tile last time, so I decided to look for what I thought would be a discarded one at a second-hand shop. However, I found online advice warning against this, as it was likely that many tiles were stolen. Tiles had become so valuable that people were stealing them from properties. As a result, I came home tile-less.

The Lisbon 48-hour coffee crawl started at Basix and we took in Sense, The Folks, Kiosk, Fabrica and back to a different Folks for brunch and coffee on our last day.

After the chewy cod on the first day, we decided to go to the trusted Timeout food hall, which had been a highlight from our first visit. However, this time our bus didn’t arrive, and after waiting for 15-20 minutes, we decided to walk 15-20 minutes to Timeout. When we arrived, we found it chaotically packed. I enjoyed a lovely Thai meal while my beloved had a burger, but it was much more challenging than last time. Later, we learned that the city was busier because there was a Christmas lights event happening. We could have just attended that and avoided all the hassle.

The next night, the beloved's birthday took a turn for the better as Gunpowder, a London restaurant, delivered one of the best dining experiences in some time. We celebrated by going to Derelium for beers, a holiday tradition..

Also returned to CoopLayday for brunch that included zucchini pancakes and truffle scrambled eggs, and stunning looking (ordinary tasting) iced tea.

Last time I talked about the good shopping experiences and we certainly revisited some of the same places, El Corte Inglés provided a few decs for this year’s green Christmas theme amongst it’s fantsatic displays. . However, our trip to the Centro Colombo, which I raved abut last time was disappointing, especially after enduring a rain-filled journey to get there. It seemed like they had forgotten to put up any signage, so we had no idea what shops were available and ended up leaving quite quickly.

The highlights were the sunny beachside walk, the birthday dinner and the architecture that still takes my breath away.

November 2025

I've made it a habit to visit the UK City of Culture ever since a happy trip discovering Hull and Bradford was equally delightful.

My second trip to West Yorkshire this year had us visiting the Turner Prize exhibit - my favourite turned out to be the winner. Bradford is very easy to get around by walking or as in this case, jumping on a bus from outside our centrally located hotel.

The exhibit was in Cartwright Hall Art Gallery in Lister Park, so visiting gained us a delightful autumnal walk too. I loved Bradford Industrial Museum, where we spent hours rather than the anticipated minutes, as there was so much to look at from Back to Backs with bedrooms reminiscent of my older sisters in the 1970s to printing presses, vintage cars and an excellent exhibition showcasing working life throughout the years.

In terms of food, on our first night, we chose a traditional, established local restaurant that was quite a trek outside the city. The portions served were so large that we barely managed to finish half of our meals.

The next day was my birthday, and we learned Stuart Copeland was in town chatting about life before, during and after The Police and it seemed a good an activity as any for my birthday evening, especially as it was in the legendary St George’s Hall.

We enjoyed a lighter and most enjoyable meal at Taste of Thai within the Darley Street Market. We’d visited earlier and bought some bits from the market stalls and vowed to return. We did this the following day for burgers from Mr TS before getting the train home.

One thing that Bradford surprisingly lacked was coffee shops. The only one worth mentioning is Jamaica Blue in the excellent shopping centre, discovered on the last afternoon. Otherwise, we would have enjoyed a breakfast there.

I long to return to see more of and embrace the culture, architecture and welcome of Bradford. Unlike Hull, it’s a lot closer to home.

October 2025

Bradford’s Midland Hotel is a beautiful old building in the centre of the city with a stunning lounge, sweeping stairways covered in plush printed carpet.

Although our room would be designed differently if this were a modern build, it was kitted out with many of the essentials that newer hotels leave out; there was an actual wardrobe - one with doors, bedside tables - on both sides, mugs and two of the most elusive elements of modern hotels, hooks and drawers.

The room also had a small table and chair, a desk/dressing table where the TV sat, an additional power socket, ideal for plugging in hair devices in front of the mirror and a stool. There’s an additional longer mirror on the wall.

It had good lighting but no USBs, plus a kettle, mugs, biscuits and a supply of instant tea and coffee. There’s also an actual phone, which we very much needed to call down for a heater.

The duvet on the double bed was quite thin and we only had two pillows. We could have done with more of both.

Bathroom

This windowed room is huge and has a good-sized bathtub with a handheld shower over, sink and vanity unit, towel rail, plus a radiator.

• Amenities include two plastic cups and mini toiletries (shampoo, body lotion, shower gel, and a shower cap), as well as tissues and sanitary bags.

• There’s a request not to put wipes in the loo; a covered bin is provided for this purpose.

• The bathroom is equipped with two bath towels, two hand towels, and a bath mat. A good-sized bathtub is placed awkwardly with vacant space at one end.

The bathroom needs a complete overhaul as there is so much space that could be used as a dressing area, leaving the bedroom a little clearer, although everything worked.

The downside of our stay, which affected our overall rating, was the lack of control over the heating. Although the radiators were controllable, the heating was centrally managed and switched off at 9 PM, right when we needed it to be on. As a result, our room was freezing when we returned after dinner on our first night. Fortunately, the hotel made up for it by providing a portable heater. They took about half an hour to bring it to our room, but once we turned it on, the room warmed up almost instantly, allowing us to lower the temperature after just five minutes.

The heater clearly consumed a lot of energy, so the next day, we decided to leave the radiator heating on a little while we went out, which kept the room warmer for our return, and we only needed the portable heater for a few minutes.

It seems that allowing guests to control the heating according to their needs would be more economical, and housekeeping could adjust it if a guest is wasting energy.

Hopefully, this is on the list of improvements.

We loved going down the beautiful staircase from our second-floor room, although there is a lift.

We opted for breakfast on one of the mornings, which needed to be booked the night before. It was very affordable at under £10, but turned out to be a lacklustre hot and cold buffet. Seeing as it was my birthday, I did appreciate the Coco Pops, though!

As for service, the only time we were kept waiting was when we waited several minutes for staff to turn up at the bar when we decided on a nightcap for my birthday. Other than that, the staff were always friendly and courteous.

October 2025

Back to Liverpool, except this time, we stayed in Birkenhead. While the beloved was (working) at the UK Drum Show, I explored this town across the Mersey. The Premier Inn we were in was quiet on a Saturday, the town centre was bustling with activity and undergoing a significant facelift.

Their Waterstones is fabulous, with a large cafe and - get this, toilets in the cafe. It’s possible to do this! I also noticed a signed book by a Liverpool author, which I had just purchased and was glad to have signed at the Birmingham Literature Festival.

A bit of research revealed the library was worth seeing. In my eyes, every library is worth seeing, and I walked a good 15 minutes out of the town centre to reach this beautiful Georgian building perched on a hill surrounded by trees and autumnal splendour.

I heard music when I popped in; not what you expect in a library. It turned out to be a fundraiser and a couple of people were singing a Beatles number - because that’s the law in this part of the world; you can’t go more than 3 minutes without a Beatles reference in Merseyside.

I discovered murals of Paul O’Grady while looking at the map by chance. On my last day, I decided to check them out on my way back to the station, dragging my wheely case behind me. As I passed the station and headed towards the riverfront, the rain started to fall and soon became heavy. I spent about 15 minutes walking in the pouring rain, trying to navigate a map that led me to dead ends along the river. It didn’t help that I was in a quiet industrial area with hardly anyone around. However, I’m glad I persevered.

Once I reached Liverpool, I treated myself to an extravagant Sunday brunch for one at Ezra & Gil. I spent the rest of the afternoon browsing the excellent shops and reading my book in various coffee shops until it was time to head home.

Popping between Liverpool and Birkenhead over the weekend proved simple and inexpensive, and we headed back into the city for dinner on the Saturday evening. The Met Quarter has a newly opened food hall and I was delighted with finding Little India, which served excellent food and offered attentive service.

Birkenhead is on the mend, and Merseyside never disappoints.

The hotel is well situated in the city centre, offering views of the bridge and conveniently located across the street from the central train station, which has plenty of dining options for last-minute cravings.

While our room was an upgrade in comfort compared to our previous hotel, we were placed in a newly acquired building around the corner, so our room did not exactly resemble the photos on the website. Nevertheless, it still maintained a charming old-world atmosphere.

In terms of customer service, with no room phone or instructions, there was no straightforward way to contact the staff, and since we were in a different building from the reception, we couldn't simply go downstairs for assistance. However, when we asked them to look after our luggage for a few hours on our last day, they were friendly and accommodating. Customer service seems to vary depending on who is on duty.

Bathroom

The bathroom needs an update, which I suspect will come, but it has all the essential features. The bathtub didn’t quite reach the walls, but we enjoyed a handheld shower overhead and some storage space. The toiletries provided were full-sized and included shower gel, hand soap, shampoo, and conditioner. There were also two glasses, which I found helpful since I usually use one for storage. The bathroom also featured a hairdryer, good quality towels hanging on a rail, and a bath mat.

Our bed was quite comfortable, comprising the standard two beds joined with separate duvets. I particularly appreciated having a seat by the window; the Elite Savoy offered two cosy armchairs at a coffee table, where I spent most of my waking hours enjoying the view of the many sights outside.

Storage

Common sense was evident in the storage solutions. There were actual wardrobes next to the front door, directly opposite the bathroom. One wardrobe contained several proper wooden hangers, while a second open wardrobe had a hanging rail with enough space for luggage. Additionally, there was a desk/dressing table equipped with two drawers, a mirror, and lighting. Next to the desk was a good-sized desk and chair, with a shelf, another mirror, and power sockets, although there were no USB ports. I imagine those will be forthcoming during the future refurbishments of this building, that is once they finish updating the main one that is currently shrouded in scaffolding.

Food & Drink

Our hot breakfast buffet was adequate, but the experience felt a bit like being in a Travelodge. During a quick walk as we prepared to leave from the main hotel building, I realised how much more comfortable the other restaurant/breakfast room was. I feel like we pulled the short straw on the communal facilities.

In our room, we had a kettle, two mugs, two glasses, and some instant drink sachets neatly arranged on a tray.

For the first time in many years, I was pleased there was no air conditioning to deal with. We could open the window of our first-floor room, and there was a fan and a heater available for self-regulation. The room turned out to be one of the more comfortable ones of recent years - warm and cosy. Additionally, ironing boards and irons were accessible from the corridors, which also led to the first-floor courtyard. Access to our room was via either a lift or a beautiful, wide, winding staircase.

I feel that if we were to stay here again, we would enjoy an even more comfortable experience.

Stayed in room 1105 in August 2025

Situated on the outskirts of the city, we found ourselves surrounded by construction sites as well as several newly constructed buildings. The train and bus station is just across the road, but it's about a ten-minute walk, especially when including waiting at pedestrian crossings.

I’m okay with this since I have a keen interest in construction logistics (even though I often dislike the final results), and I am somewhat obsessed with cranes. However, I know that none of this will be here the next time we visit, especially if we wait another eleven years.

We reached our room and made the unfortunate mistake of forgetting to check if our room had our usual hotel request of a bathtub. Down we went again to find that this monster of a hotel, with all its 451 rooms, was fully occupied. We were to check in the morning to see if we could change - no offer of them coming to inform us.

This is our third stay at a Scandic hotel because we loved the first two, but this lack of service has put me off. We spend hours searching for hotels with bathtubs because I believe a hotel should be at least as comfortable as my home; otherwise, it doesn't feel like a holiday.

Scandics usually offer a fantastic breakfast included, plenty of lounge areas, and decent restaurants. And the rooms are generally comfortable.

To add to our woes, our room was freezing. It’s about 21°C outside - perfect weather for some reason; the policy seems to be to have the air conditioning on full blast when guests arrive. It never warmed up. The following morning, in the second room (which we had to request again), we tried simply turning off the air conditioning and opening the curtains to maximise the sunlight. We could always open the window later if it got too warm.

So, onto the room.

The bed is fine, or rather two beds pushed together with separate duvets, as is the Nordic norm.

However, there is limited storage; no drawers, which is increasingly common (aaaggghhhh!), but get this, no wardrobe. Instead, there is a unit that you might normally find by the front door for coats. And there are, mercifully, some coat hooks near the entrance. There’s also a small cupboard that functions as a desk, as well as a slimline one where we managed to stow some belongings. Luckily, it was just three nights, so we basically lived out of our suitcase.

The bedside tables were tiny, with mine featuring a shelf. Every bit of storage was appreciated. Strangely, there was enough space for a small wardrobe that could have accommodated all our belongings.

Interestingly, they provided the oddity of a shoehorn.

Rather delightfully, there’s a small coffee table and two chairs placed by the window.

We were fortunate to request a kettle from reception when we changed rooms so we could boil water for our coffee filter bags.

In the lounge near the entrance, there is a tap for filling water bottles. We could also pick up a limited selection of refreshments, such as instant coffee and tea bags, available at reception. The freestanding TV is positioned opposite the bed, with no wall mount, as we have windows on two walls inviting in warming sunshine.

Bathroom

• Bathtub

• Two absorbent bath towels and matching hand towels

• Bath mat

• Bathtub with a hand shower

• Full-sized toiletries: shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, and hand soap

• Towel rail beneath the sink

• Limited storage around the sink

• A hook

• Two glasses

Features:

- Good lighting, including reading lights and several USB ports

- Luggage rack, but little else

- A shoehorn, which I’ve never used in my life

- Some decorative pots and vases occupy space

- Pictures of actual people that seem unnecessary

The breakfast was decent, and the lounge was excellent. We enjoyed pizza and beers there one night.

I think we will think again before booking a fourth Scandic. Or maybe they are just better in Norway.

August 2025.

Having popped over for a day from Copenhagen, I was looking forward to more time in Malmö, at the southern tip of Sweden. Our centrally located hotel allowed us to easily explore more of Sweden’s third city.

Our first stop was the Nordic Brewlab, housed in a large space with a roastery but no viable seating for people to be comfortable. Still, since we were there, we perched on a bench while waiting for our coffees, overhearing a coffee tasting session taking place with three people at the bar. It’s surprising how much people can talk about the taste of coffee. We bought some beans, which we only do when we have experienced both good coffee and service. Indeed, they included a small sample of the coffee I had since they no longer had any for sale.

Later, I had chai and a citrus biscuit at the rather poorly named but very friendly Qoffee. This is next to one of my favourite Scandinavian brands, Normal. An affordable shop where you can find whatever specific item you’re looking for and a few you never thought about.

For our first night in Malmö, we headed to the Möllevången neighbourhood and dined at the extremely popular Krua Thai, where I was served more food than I could manage. Another walk was needed before we visited a Mikkeller - a travel tradition. Sadly, all seating was outside, and by this time, it was far too cold to sit outside, and my late summer jacket wouldn’t keep me comfortable. I felt a little under the weather later, which also had a knock-on effect on the next day.

However, the beach was on our plan for the next day, which I was very much looking forward to. I had a lovely memory of visiting last time. It’s much quieter in winter, mind. Between long walks, we popped into the Bakery and then returned to the Espresso House that started it all, on that first trip, for lunch. I couldn’t sit in the same seats as it was far too warm in the late summer sunshine, but we still sat looking out to the coast and beyond to the sleek Øresund Bridge that connects Sweden to Denmark.

The following day, we enjoyed a splendid train journey to Ystad. It’s is a pretty coastal town with plenty to keep the eyes entertained, from ships and beaches to old buildings and a decent shopping street lined with small versions of High Street stores. It’s home to Wallander, the fictional Swedish detective - if that’s your thing.

We couldn’t find any decent indie coffee shops but enjoyed cinnamon buns and plenty of people watching at the spacious, comfortable, airy Espresso House looking out the the square.

From there, we headed to Lund, a university town with plenty of affordable eateries. We shared a spectacular, freshly cooked bowl at the Five Flower Noodlebar, which was arguably the best meal of the trip, a step up from the decent noodles we shared from China Box in the square in central Malmö. The afternoon coffee was at Love Coffee, where we squeezed onto a small table among dozens of students and animated professors.

Back in town, we had excellent bowls of Papi's Pasta at the Malmö foodhall. Pasta is a household staple, so I would never usually order it in a restaurant, but we were lucky to get it as some stalls had already run out of food and were closing.

We needed a good dinner as we planned a lengthy beach walk to catch the sunset on our final evening.

On our last morning, we extended our goodbyes by staying in town and enjoying two coffee stops. The first was in the garden of Lila Kaffeebar. I have fond memories of visiting here during a day trip a few years ago, but this time, it had queues at the door when we arrived in Malmö on Saturday. On a quieter, yet still lively Tuesday, it felt much calmer, especially in the garden. After another walk, we stopped for our final Swedish coffee at Solde Kaffeebar before settling on a bench in a busy park, trying to spot dogs.

Then it was time to catch the train over the bridge to Copenhagen before heading home on our flight. We leave another impeccably clean city with an excellent train network, because the best cities are the ones that just work.

August 2025

The first time I was in Gothenburg (Göteborg) was for my birthday in 2014, and we went to 2112* for my birthday meal. So we made a beeline for it on our first night; it’s good to see something has survived all these years and still seems as popular as ever.

The next morning, after frantically moving hotel rooms to the one we had originally booked, we went on a boat ride for some island hopping. I couldn't help but smile when I saw that our boat was named Eloise, which is the name of my goddaughter's older sister. Our coffee experience at Morgon Coffee Roaster was even more delightful. Being in a university neighbourhood always brings inspiration, and the architecture here is stunning.

After a return visit to a branch of Da Mateo coffee shops to catch up with one of the beloved’s old friends, we then enjoyed a stunning dinner with a long-standing friend and his family at their beautiful and distinctly Swedish home. They sent us off with some freshly cut flowers from their fabulous gardens.

Another boat trip the next day took us to Obergska Coffee, a rural walk up to the peak viewing point, and a visit to a pet shop with rabbits. What more do you want from a morning?

Back in town, we tracked down the superb café, Caféva, where I had a memorable lunch all those years ago. It’s still there, still popular, and still offering affordable soup, salad, a sandwich, and hot drink in the middle of Gothenburg.

On the way back, we found a fabulous old-school Italian coffee shop, Mannini, just like the ones I grew up with in Bedford, so we also shared a cheesecake with the coffee.

My notes tell me we had a bad (and pricey) tapas experience, of which I have no photos. After that, we returned to the hotel and shared a reasonably priced pizza from the ground-floor restaurant. We managed to end the Gothenburg leg on a good note before packing our suitcases to catch the morning train to Malmö.

*2112 is billed as ‘fine dining’ (but to me, a burger place) with a heavy metal soundtrack. Founded by former members of the Swedish metal band, In Flames, who are clearly Rush fans.

August 2025

The best Premier Inn in the world

I didn't expect to be pleased to see a British hotel chain in Germany. When I travel, I want to immerse myself in the local culture, although I always smile when I see homegrown brands like Costa, Lush and Body Shop. Now, we have Premier Inn in Germany, and they certainly don’t create them like this back home.

The interiors paid tribute to the building’s history, featuring classic 50s armchairs and rounded-edge wardrobes reminiscent of the 30s.

Best of all -and I truly mean the pinnacle of the experience - was the preservation of the old-style moving office lifts. The paternoster lifts are doorless and continuously in motion, so you never have to wait. So efficient. Unfortunately, these lifts were securely behind locked doors, and I lingered for a bit, hoping to see someone from the office side of the building use them. I would have loved the chance to ride one!

I learned that the Saturn Building, which houses the hotel, was constructed in just 135 days in 1925, although there were some stoppages, making the total construction time over 15 months. It was the city's first skyscraper and one of the earliest in Germany.

For a brief period, its proper name, the Hansahochhaus, was the tallest building in Europe. It is a stunning sight to behold, and it feels like a privilege to be in a historic building exactly 100 years after it opened.

After discussing the architecture and interior design, the functionality of the hotel room during our two-night stay seems almost secondary.

Suffice to say, the room was incredibly comfortable, spacious, and filled with light. The fantastic wardrobes facing each other, along with a shared mirror in between, offered ample storage space that could accommodate us for a week. The bathroom was large and modern, while the bed was as comfortable as the chaise longue. There were bedside tables on both sides, and additional storage was available in a cupboard topped with a beautiful round light.

We went out, so we didn’t participate in the supplementary breakfast served in the lobby area, which was next to a fantastic, colourful lounge with plenty of comfy sofas surrounded by books.

The room includes several amenities: a kettle, a safe, a low unit for unpacking your luggage beside the desk and chair, and a TV mounted on the wall opposite the bed. The bathroom is well-equipped with plenty of quality towels and full-sized toiletries. In line with Premier Inn's policy, there are additional pillows available to ensure a comfortable night's sleep, keeping with Premier Inn’s promise.

The highlight was definitely the classic mid-century chairs; they made the space feel like home.

June 2025

Cologne is Germany’s fourth-largest city, and visiting it meant I have now had the privilege of experiencing the four largest cities and seven of the top 15.

Known for its cathedral, which we walked to as soon as we checked into our hotel, we then discovered much more. When we visited in late June, the city was preparing for its Pride festival. Cologne offers multiple riverside walks along the magnificent Rhine, with plenty to see. We spotted spectacular green birds, which we could barely see clearly as they were so perfectly camouflaged in the trees, fluttering speedily in and out of view.

As an architecture enthusiast, I noticed the trio of buildings in the distance and decided that sunset would be the coolest time to walk to that area. The three Crane Houses in Cologne’s Rheinauhafen are breathtaking, and I love the contrast between this kind of residential architecture and the Gothic Old Town, of which Cologne has many fine examples. I also admired how their modernised train stations looked beautifully retro, reminiscent of the mid-20th century. However, the most impressive architectural highlight of this trip turned out to be our hotel.

For shopping, Cologne has both a Hema and Muji. The former left the UK some time ago, and we usually only see it now in its native Netherlands, which we visit regularly for essentials. The latter is still mourned in Birmingham.

Regarding coffee, our first attempt nearby was nothing special; below average, expensive, and very slow, with only one member of staff. People People Coffee was in a lovely area, although again, with just one staff member and a long queue. However, I appreciated being able to use the loo, which are often lacking in Germany, with some shopping centres charging for access, even in food courts.

We also visited Rhein Street Coffee, but I don’t have any photos or clear memories of that visit. The heat played a part, but the lack of coffee and photos now seems curious as I reflect on this trip weeks later.

We enjoyed breakfast at the dog-friendly Kaffesaurus so that we could explore Belgisches Viertel, the Belgian Quarter.

Our one lunch was at a delightful supermarket, Alnatura. Once again, in typical German fashion, there was no loo available. We decided to explore the neighbourhood further. With no independent coffee shops nearby, we entered a chain establishment and asked about facilities before ordering; they had none. When asked further, they suggested a supermarket further down the road, which had complimentary loos. Go figure.

I recall enjoying good dinners at Hoai Viet and, on the last night, having tapas with a little carafe of wine at Salera, recalling the first time we shared a carafe and giggled all the way back to our hotel in Milan. This time, we managed a long walk to the Crane Houses.

Aside from the hotel, the highlight of this trip for me was the Lindt Chocolate Museum, which actually discussed very little about Lindt itself and focused more on social history. On a busy Saturday, the place was packed - everyone escaping the heat - and all seemed fully engaged as there was something for all ages. I loved seeing the old Suchard packaging, as my mum used to work for them; they were the makers of Toblerone in Bedford.

Although visiting three cities in six days was a bit tiring, travelling by train and returning via Eurostar made it more enjoyable. It was certainly a week full of discovery.

June 2025

Another modern hotel that is conveniently located next to the conference centre, which means it’s close to the main train station. We learned that Nuremberg is known as the City of Toys, and indeed, toys are prominently displayed in the lobby. As you enter, there's a jigsaw puzzle that I intended to work on during our waits at the front desk, but we never encountered any check-in or check-out queues, so that never happened. We didn't need any assistance from staff during our stay. In addition to the toys, there are jars of sweets next to the complimentary flavoured water.

Our room overlooked the main street and was bright, fairly spacious, and offered ample storage. It featured sliding doors that opened to a wardrobe with plenty of hanging space - at least ten hotel-style hangers, plus a couple of fabric hangers in an additional wardrobe, along with large drawers underneath.

The room included two bedside tables, a desk with a modern chair, and a comfortable armchair with a side table. The comfy bed had a choice of three pillows on each side, with the TV positioned directly opposite the bed.

Refreshments

The hotel offered a stunning breakfast buffet with the largest selection of loose tea leaves I have ever seen. Although I only drink coffee, the tea selection was tempting, and I wish I had more time to enjoy breakfast each day, but we had a city to explore.

In the room, we found a bottle of water, two glasses, a pod coffee machine, a kettle, and various teas and instant coffee. There were four coffee cups available, which I didn’t initially notice but can confirm with photographic evidence.

Additionally, we discovered two more glasses in the well-stocked bathroom, which also included tissues, a hairdryer, sanitary bags, a wall-mounted shaving mirror, and a spare toilet roll. The thick, absorbent towel set included handy face towels, hand towels, bath towels, and a quality bath mat. The spacious bathtub had an excellent showerhead, and full-size shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel were attached to the wall. Over the round basin - similar to ours at home - were hand soap and hand/body lotion, which saved me the need to use my own.

There is a window between the bedroom and bathroom, meaning the light coming on can disturb, although there is a handy, less bright mirror light.

There was also ample storage around the sink, along with a convenient low shelf to keep empty toiletry bags from getting wet.

Regarding practical aspects, there were plenty of plug sockets (though I don’t recall any USB ports), good lighting, and manageable air conditioning that was quick to turn on and off. The elevators were located to the right of the check-in desk. We never had to wait long for them, and there were plenty of games to entertain us if we did.

The NH hotels served us well, protecting us from the searing June heat.

June 2025

It’s always a thrill to visit a city for the first time and Nuremberg provided a delightful experience

Upon entering our hotel, I learned that Nuremberg is known as the City of Toys, which they did a great job of showcasing.

Our first coffee stop was among the oddest we've had - and we’ve been to some. (Remember the home interiors store and coffee shop in Rotterdam?) Instead of being a place to enjoy coffee, Rosttrommel Kaffeerosterei, Josephplatz was more of a shop. There was only one place to perch - I can't really call it sitting. Architecturally, there was plenty to admire, though the coffee itself was average.

In contrast, the Yellow Tile Coffee Project, located near a Woolworths, which is a brand I miss in the UK, was a much more welcoming spot.

Nuremberg's fantastic old town left a lasting impression on me. Most of the city is steeped in medieval history, dating back to at least 1050. Given its significance to the Nazi Party, I was surprised by how much has survived, or perhaps they have done an excellent job of rebuilding. I’ve read that the Allies bombed 90% of the city in a single hour, and it was famously the location chosen for the trials of German officials accused of war crimes.

To escape the afternoon heat, we took shelter in the sizable German National Museum and this could have easily taken up a whole day.

One of my culinary highlights was a fantastic healthy café we found on our doorstep (I believe it was called Frozen Yogurt & Salatbar), conveniently located just around the corner from the station. Lunch is a meal we often forget to enjoy while traveling and here they made up your choice of noodles or salad bowls.

We also had a wonderful Thai meal at Mako and Burger Heart was decent.

I have distinct modern memories from my visit. One that stands out is hearing the big hit from The Outfield while ordering a small beer inside a craft beer place called Bierwerk, after descending from the Imperial Castle. I love that track! Coincidentally, I had just recently heard it on the bus, where a rude person was playing it too loudly, prompting me to look it up since I had forgotten the artist. What a serendipitous moment!

June 2025

I have three clear memories of this, the first stop on our latest European adventure.

Our flight was delayed, so we just managed to make last orders for food around 11:30 PM. We were so happy to share a hot pizza together, even though it was close to midnight.

The room was icy - so cold that I hesitated to step inside for fear of freezing my muscles and ruining the holiday before it even started. This has happened to me too many times in the past. My beloved had to turn off the aggressive air conditioning and unpack some essentials while I walked up and down the corridor outside for about ten minutes.

The hotel was conveniently located next to the Vyšehrad metro station; we could be on the platform within two minutes of exiting the building.

This Grand Hotel is a 26-floor building from the 1980s, offering exemplary service. They even quickly cooked up a pizza for us before we had a chance to take our luggage to our room. Had our flight been on time, we would have gone straight to our room, turned off the air conditioning, and returned to eat, by which point our room would have felt a bit more welcoming.

Once the room reached above freezing point, I quickly wrapped myself in luxurious robes as soon as I walked in.

The bathroom felt luxurious, featuring ample storage space, a good bathtub with proper handles to help you lift yourself up, and an overhead shower. The toiletries were surprisingly from The White Company, perhaps a nod to the British clientele? It’s also unusual to see miniatures and single-use plastics these days, unless they will be refilled.

A towel shelf above the bathtub housed the main towels, and there was a rare towel bar on the side of the sink.

For storage, we had a double wardrobe with shelves above it, along with a single unit that housed a large safe and a fridge. Bedside units appeared on each side with lamps on top. However, I was more focused on escaping the arctic conditions than on properly documenting the room details

The hotel website pictures show that they have drawers and a table with a chair by the window. There's also a desk with a drawer, though I can't confirm whether it was the TV or a mirror above it.

The fridge contained the traditional mini-bar, so we needed to make room for our own water bottles, which required constant refilling in the June heat.

As a four-star hotel, it had everything we needed, despite the air conditioning unit that had only two extremes: icy cold or too stuffy. The amenities included:

- A kettle

- A hairdryer

- Those all-important thick bathrobes

Food & Beverage

We enjoyed an excellent breakfast in their wonderfully airy restaurant, which offered something for everyone.

Overall, great service from a well located hotel with all the comforts I needed.

June 2025

To start our European adventure, we fly into Prague, a mere eleven years after our last visit. It’s as striking as I remember, with its ancient buildings, the river as wide as a field, and its streets still cobbled, though smooth.

My memories from 2014 include the fast-moving escalators in the underground that you had to do a run up to get on, workers hanging off ladders with little regard for safety, and a glass of beer costing less than an orange juice (36p comes to mind). 

This time, it’s much warmer, and like in Mexico - also unseasonably hot in June two years ago - we looked for shelter from the afternoon peak heat. It was around 30°C, and we’ve sadly grown accustomed to being immobilised in the summer afternoons. Our window for travel is shrinking even more; September to May is now the only breathable bracket. After this, maybe Scotland may be the only option. 

Prague is noticeably pricier this time around. We decided on the Pilsner Urquell Experience (about £22) to stay cool. The underground chill offered some relief, although neither of us are fans of Pilsner and I’m a very light drinker. Still, like most modern ‘museums,’ it was an immersive experience with plenty of interaction, including an automated talk via the headset that responds to your position, along with a tasting beer halfway through, which I couldn't finish, and a choice of two beers afterwards, of which I managed one before switching to a soft drink. The beer experience focused on the foam, which would normally put off an occasional (mainly Belgian) beer drinker like me, but it was quite fascinating. 

Instead of workers hanging off buildings, Prague’s sustainability efforts now brilliantly extend to paper poo bags displayed alongside street bins. 

Although not as affordable as before, Prague still draws an international crowd, as evidenced by the many accents we heard. 

We only had two nights here, and a flight delay meant we only just made the hotel by the 11:30 cut-off for pizza on the first evening. So, one coffee was enjoyed at Cafe Hrnek after breakfast at the hotel, followed by dinner at B4, a chess-themed bar and restaurant. This was lovely, aside from my salmon being quite chewy and hard to eat, made worse by the heat.

We enjoyed a lovely long walk to see many of the central sights, including the medieval astronomical clock and Charles Bridge. Afterwards, we ended up buying a refreshing ice cream from McDonald's to sit in their cooling basement. Unfortunately, Prague has adopted Germany’s practice of charging for toilet use in restaurants. We don’t carry cash anyway, but this feels like a regression in wellbeing standards.

However, a highlight was our hotel, one of the best located, as you can walk straight onto the train platform after exiting. It’s well-connected, being next to the Conference Centre, so that’s a tip for future hotel choices.

Onwards to Germany.

June 20205

Situated proudly on the High Street - just one reason we love the Coaching Inns - this elegant 18th-century Georgian gem brims with the charm of a bygone era.

The service is exemplary. If we had to point out a downside, it would be the car park: about six spaces, and once the daily rate is paid, there’s no guarantee of a spot after a day out. We opted for the main public car park five minutes away; half the price and, thanks to a generous stranger, free on our first day via an unused ticket.

This kind of simple gesture stands out in contrast to today’s parking dance: download yet another app, enter car details, and pay a service fee just to pay for parking. A universal contactless option would be far more sane.

The Room

The bathroom featured the customary rubber duck, a generous bath with a large handheld shower overhead, and gloriously soft towels. A deep vanity drawer and discreet wall shelves offered ample storage, plus a surprising amount of space behind the toilet. And yes, a hook in the bathroom. A rarity worth celebrating.

The double wardrobe had actual doors, uncommon these days, and it came with a side of shelving. Both sides of the bed featured bedside units, one of which doubled as a desk/dressing table. By the window, more storage in a low shelf unit below the wall-mounted TV. One bedside unit offered a single drawer, while the other was lost to the safe.

Plug points were sufficient, though somewhat congested around the desk where the only mirror in the room was. Lighting included large bedside lamps, reading lights, and (I think) an overhead entrance light.

Food & Drink A kettle was provided, but unfortunately, none of those lovely filter coffee bags we have gotten used to. Instead, the dreaded pod machine, which, I hope is not a sign of a chain-wide shift. Thankfully, the hotel lounge still serves filter coffee in a cafetière, with a delightful shot glass of Maltesers alongside. And the restaurant remains as impressive as other Coaching Inns we’ve visited.

In-room drinkware was thoughtfully varied: mugs, cups and tall glasses. The plastic water bottle is a disappointment, though. One day, perhaps, hotels will offer a simple tap for drinking water.

Amenities The iconic Roberts radio (still on my wishlist) made an appearance, as did physical games, a hairdryer, and a safe.

This 300-year-old building doesn’t offer a lift or ground-floor rooms, but the sweeping staircase is a beauty, albeit only for the able-bodied.

Another wonderful stay with the Coaching Inn family, featuring great breakfasts, excellent dinners, and a sense of continuity with Georgian charm and small-town service.

April 2025

Though I’ve explored every corner of Yorkshire, Richmond, tucked away on the northern edge, had always escaped me. That changed this Easter with a visit framed by Coaching Inn comfort and charm.

The first thing we saw after parking and carrying our cases to the hotel was a game of cricket underway. This initial glimpse of Richmond is as quintessentially British a summer scene as you can get.

One of the reasons I love the Coaching Inns is that they have fantastic restaurants, saving us the hassle of finding places to eat. We also enjoyed lunch at Sip Coffee and dinner at Rafael'o, a rare visit to a UK Italian restaurant for us, as I find them overpriced. Everything here was beautifully presented. I had a satisfying salmon and a too-big Tiramisu to tick off my greatest Italian foodie hits.

Some distinct memories:

• The street names include Ryder’s Wynd, Newbiggin, Park Wynd, and Frenchgate. Although Edinburgh seems to have quite a few ‘gates’.

• There is a Banking Hub which seems to be a collaboration between Barclays Bank and the Post Office.

• A 'hole in the wall' pharmacy where you can collect prescriptions via automated click-and-collect

• The Richmond Waterfalls are a stunning, unexpected bonus. We went to ‘hear’ the waterfall during a dusky walk and returned in daylight to see it bathed in sunshine.

• Having Wensleydale just a short drive away was also a treat. If you're a Wallace & Gromit/Shaun the Sheep fan, you’ll enjoy it.

And on the drive back south, we were able to call into Tamper Coffee in Sheffield just before closing time.

Richmond reminds us that even familiar counties hold surprises. From decent Italian restaurants and tiramisu to waterfalls heard before seen, this northern escape quietly left its mark.

April 2025

I first heard about the Portobello bookshop, which like many bookshops during the pandemic, gallantly fought to stay afloat through online sales. It made me look up this Edinburgh neighbourhood that I'd not come across during my city visits.

It was the first place I wanted to seek when I got to Portobello Beach. However, I always like coming across places by chance, rather than looking them up, and that's how I happened across what already felt like a special bookshop.

A couple of years ago, I saw a fantastic photograph of Portobello Beach during Birmingham Open Studios. The image, created by the Open Studios organiser Owen Visser about a decade ago, proved to be the catalyst. I was tempted to buy it but felt I needed to visit the place first to see if I actually like it. In any case, I have no wall space left for new art - I need to move.

I love Portobello Beach.

My beloved was away on tour so I took advantage of this time and invited my elder sister, who only in recent years has started travelling, mostly on cruises. This was our first trip together and possibly her first long-distance train trip - something I have enjoyed many times to Edinburgh, around the UK and across the world. I was happy to show an alternative mode of transport other than the car.

I booked us an Airbnb as there are very few hotels in the neighbourhood. The city centre has 100s of options but accommodation is as pricey as London. In any case, I like to experience places as a local so the delightful Airbnb studio built at the bottom of the host's garden was perfect. Especially as they had a wonderfully friendly dog for which they kept treats in our studio. It was so homely - they even have the same crockery mine.

I haven't used Airbnb for almost a decade - it's always a last resort as I prefer the security and structure of hotels. However, this 'tiny house' is much nicer, perfectly located and it came with a dog bonus.

The beach is about a 15-20 minute walk away, and the High Street with aforementioned book shop and plenty of coffee shops, restaurants and stuff shops is reached about 5 minutes before. We had a choice of different routes to get there so over our 3-day weekend, we explored different avenues - especially as we both love architecture.

It was uncharacteristically warm in April so everyone was eating outside cafes, which meant we managed to find brunch, even on a busy Saturday, inside one of the beachside eateries. I think we landed at Miros, where I enjoyed simple pancakes looking out to the sea. We tipped well for the service as the staff first moved us away from the front door that was ever-opening as hopeful diners tried their luck and then popped us in the window seat.

We also enjoyed a window view with our seat from Tills & Company, a High Street book shop and cafe, although that view amusingly was of Greggs.

During our day in Edinburgh, we managed two visits to a Soderberg; the original one, which, when it was still called Peter's Yard is one of my happy places in the world, so I was thrilled to introduce this to my Sis. The second one was for lunch later in town after a visit to the always intriguing Dean Village.

When in town, I also bought a mystery book from Golden Hare Books. This is something I have always wanted to do and here I could have picked up half a dozen from the staff's wonderful descriptions. They also stock Edinburgh-made Quirky chocolate.

This was all before returning to Portobello Bookshop, where I knew I was going to spend some money. I bought yet another tote bag for the collection. This one I use to carry my little writing laptop when I am out of town. (When in Birmingham, I faithfully use my Faculty Coffee bag).

I bought two books for the bag; the one from my list, Careless People, which sadly was not worth the hype and I should have borrowed from the library rather than carrying back the pricey hardback (see my take on it here). The book of Nicola Sturgeon's speeches, signed by the former First Minister of Scotland, is 100% more inspiring.

Oh and I have new bookmarks from both stores. I now seem to have quite a bookmark collection. I am as good at avoiding picking these up when offered as I am at going into bookshops and libraries that I pass.

I did source a print from one of the many art/stuff shops on Portobello High Street. I was taken by the swimming image that is seen everywhere in the neighbourhood and after much flicking, I found a small version; actually a large greetings card that I have framed and added to my travel images in our bedroom.

Portobello Beach sure seems like a creative enclave and we spotted posters of Sunday's art and crafts fair but didn't think we'd have time before our mid-afternoon train. Then came across it on our last beach walk and spent more money there than all the book shopping. I could have spent a lot more, but my case and my book bag were already full. I bought a couple of candles from the Canadians in Scotland who run Black Bear & Pine Candles. One that smells of maple syrup - easy one - and the other, the one that drew me in, that promises the smell of an (old) library. Before that, I bought some hair/headbands from a Japanese maker, Wee Joys, which are true to their brand name.

All my favourite countries collided in this one visit: Japan, Canada and Scotland.

This market is added to the long list of highlights of visiting Portobello Beach. I'll be back in town soon.

April 2025