Argentina Wine, Travel, Culture & Food | The Real Argentina

AND THE BEST SOMMELIER IN ARGENTINA IS…

2017-12-12T13:09:21Z

After participating in five demanding competitions over the past decade, Martín Bruno has finally nailed it to become Argentina’s best sommelier. He will now represent his country in the Americas’ cup in 2018.

A triennial contest open to Argentine Association of Sommeliers (AAS) members, Martín – brand ambassador for Pernod-Ricard, executive somm at Tegui and a teacher at CAVE wine school – joins an elite league that includes Paz Levinson, currently the world’s fourth-best sommelier. A new AAS rule stipulated former winners cannot compete, thereby opening the the path for a new generation.

Nineteen candidates blind-tasted and undertook service tasks after having studied furiously to fill their minds with denominations of origin and world wine regions to compete in the AAS-organised semi-final last Saturday. Just three made the final cut; of note is the fact that former finalist Valeria Gamper, competition newbie Stefanie Paiva from Venezuela, and Martín have all passed through the Fierro Hotel, officially now a cradle for nurturing top somms.

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Following a nerve-wracking two-day break, the trio was then put through the grinder on Monday at Usina del Arte, showcasing the art of service, suggesting pairings and blind-tasting among other tasks for a stringent group of ‘diner’ judges, a tricky and demanding crew that included International Sommelier Association (ASI) president Andrés Rosberg and AAS head Matías Prezioso.

Over the past decade, Martín has racked up valuable experience in New Zealand, at Michel Bras in France, plus several years in Buenos Aires at the Fierro Hotel, Florería Atlántico and Tegui, the latter two ranking in the World’s 50 Best Bars and Restaurants lists respectively. That, combined with his additional passion for the world of spirits, came together; with little time for on-stage nerves, he became the first man to clinch Argentina’s top somm title. While winning came as a surprise to him, it was less so for those who of us who have followed his career.

Andrés recounts: “My father and brother worked near Tipula in Martínez, Zona Norte, where Martín was head sommelier. They’d have lunch there every other day, and enjoyed it so much that I started going myself. Tipula then closed down and when the Fierro opened, Martín was a natural choice. As I’m the hotel’s executive somm, we chose the glassware and designed the cellar together. He was very hands on, responsible, efficient, talented, smart and fun. We had lots of fun. He also loves the bar aspect, which is important.

“Having participated in national contests as well as 2016’s world championship, Martín was certainly a strong contender to win.”

Meanwhile, Germán Martitegui, owner-chef of Tegui, said: “Martín and I have worked together for several years, so this is great news for us. We’ve watched him grow and though he works here on a part-time basis, he’s still very involved with the wine list. We’re so happy for him.”

I’d also like to share my own experience working with Argentina’s best sommelier. Around six years ago Martín and I pepped up the expat social calendar with the Thank Fierro It’s Friday cocktail happy hour. I’d host a bunch of cool drinkers with Martín Rosberg, legendary local bartender Fede Cuco would mix the drinks while Martín ensured slick service. One of the first sommeliers I ever met, his knowledge and confidence were certainly an impetus for my own journey into the world of wine. And, just look at him now…

The burden of responsibility naturally comes with such an accolade, so as an ambassador for Argentina’s wine industry, what one change would he make? “We need to be better communicators, and to drink more – and better – wine. When I see Argentina topping soft drinks consumption rankings, well, that hurts. We have such a great tradition and history with respect to wine, but sadly we are drinking less of it. We need to get people sharing a bottle again.”

Despite the victory, there’s no rest for the wicked – or Argentina’s best sommelier. Martín will be hitting the books and blind-tasting once again from next Monday with Flavia Rizzuto and María Barrutia, co-directors at CAVE, as he prepares to train for 2018’s Americas contest.

AAS somm contest fun facts:

AAS vice-president Valeria Mortara slapped on the lipstick to ‘kiss’ 60 wine glasses ahead of the polishing task.
All three finalists have worked at the Fierro Hotel in Palermo Hollywood.
Martín celebrated his win with sparkling wine – “I can’t remember which one” – and Canadian whisky, appropriate because he will now compete in the America’s cup… in Canada in 2018.
Second-placed Valeria Gamper will also represent Argentina next year.
The afterparty took place at 878 in Villa Crespo.
Martín and I share the same birthday (though I may be older than him).

BUENOS AIRES’ MEATY FEAST CHAMPIONSHIP

2017-12-12T13:10:22Z

Competing to be crowned kings of the Campeonato Federal del Asado 2017.

Under the shadow of the Obelisco in the centre of 9 de Julio – the widest avenue in the world – some serious meat appreciation was going down on Sunday afternoon. More than 350,000 people thronged the smokey, meat smelling streets as Argentina’s 23 provinces and hosts – Buenos Aires – represented at the second annual BBQ contest.

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Meat lovers packed out 9 de Julio Avenue for the event. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

Honouring Argentine Tradition

If UNESCO existed in terms of food – I’m pretty sure most Argentine’s would happily slap a heritage sticker on their beloved asado (BBQ). It’s in their bones. “An asado is the answer to everything,” is the strapline of one of my Porteño (Buenos Aires resident) friends here. “It’s all about the ritual, from preparing the fire to sharing a delicious bottle of red wine with good conversation and laughs around the fire with friends and family,” says Rafa.

It’s about time too. Slowing it down real nice and savouring some well spent moments. Panza llena corazón contento goes the phrase here (full belly, happy heart,) and nothing tops the menu like a good asado. It’s all your Christmases at once, except it comes more than once a year – for most it’s a weekend ritual. I mean these guys even give up a round of applause for the asador (person manning the BBQ) when their magic is done!

THE NATIONAL CONTEST

The Competitors

On a scale this big, the asadores (BBQ chefs) work in pairs, the asador – hand in hand with their ayudante (helper). The eager contestants were selected through the Union of Tourism, Hotel and Gastronomy Workers of the Argentine Republic (Uthgra). Master Chef style – parrillas (BBQ’s) and tables were neatly set-up side by side as each province showed-off their culinary talents in the “Estadio del Asador” (BBQ Stadium) where the parrillas’s sizzled on into the late afternoon.

What’s Cooking?

The 24 teams cooked up all the classic cuts of the blue and white BBQ; un corte de vacío, un asado de tira ancha, una colita de cuadril and chorizos.

Inspecting the meaty goods for the perfect punto. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

Here’s a quick Real Argentina inititation in to what that all means:

Vacío / Flank

Delicious and often overlooked flank from around the belly of the cow. You don’t normally see this outside of Argentina, so take advantage of this best-cooked slowly strip which delivers on flavour and has an addictive crispy fat, smothering the exterior.

Asado / Ribs

So this is confusing. Asado is the name for BBQ in Argentina but it also refers to the large section of the rib cage that produces the finger-lickin’ tasty morsels of short or spare ribs. You want them a bit crispy on the outside to contrast with the tender meat inside. Pure salty goodness.

Nothing puts a smile on a parillero’s face more than turning the asado. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

Cuadril / Rump Steak

Used for everyday cooking in Argentina, the classic rump is nothing to write home about but is nevertheless a thick, meaty cut of reasonable quality. And you get a lot of it for your pesos.

Chorizo / Sausage

Moist, fatty, meaty. A good chori is a total pleasure. Shove it in a bread roll and it becomes the humble feast of kings known as the choripán from the chori-zo (sausage) and pan (bread). Pile on the typical local herby and spicy chimichurri sauce and you’re good to go.

Fire starters

Using their own tools, chefs chose their fire of choice: charcoal, quebracho wood – a hard wood native to South America – or both.

Finally the master parilleros had to pre-decide how they were going to cook each cut and chalk up their choices on mini blackboards before the judges got down to tasting the cuts.

The breakdown goes like this:

JUGOSO: Officially this means medium-rare in Argentina, but it tends to be more on the medium side for most parilleros (the grill chefs).

A PUNTO: Medium, still a bit pink in the middle but not so juicy.

COCIDO: Well done. Well dead.

The Judges

When the parrillero’s work is done, the judges tuck in – tasting and scoring at each stand. Made up of a technical panel representing some of the best porteña parrilla restaurants and other gastro institutions and critics including the renowned chef and presenter Francis Mallman – this year’s edition also threw in a couple of Buenos Aires’ neighbours who were chosen in a social network competition.

Someone’s feeling confident – judging time with Francis Mallmann. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

The Winners

Visibly exhausted but pent up with excited anticipation, the parrilleros and ayudantes stood around eagerly awaiting the drawn out winning announcement. The renowned wine region of Mendoza scooped the prize last year.

I took the chance to chat to the woman next to me to cut the angst a little. “Asado is just fabulous,” Porteña Maria Ekter told me with a huge smile on her face. “To me it means sharing. It’s about family get togethers. There’s often about 30 of us if you add up all the partners, kids and grand-kids now.” She nodded to the señora sat in the chair below us – that’s my mother, she’s 86. She never misses an asado.”

After presenting medals to all 24 couples – the winning team was finally called out. The provincia of Santa Fe, around 500km North West of Buenos Aires, had done it. All that work, heat and meat had paid off. Marcelo Herrera and his helper Javier Ramall stepped up to the stage. Their trophy? A mini silver parilla each of course!

Santa Fe champions, Marcelo Herrera and his helper Javier Ramall celebrating. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

“I’m really moved. This is huge for me. I think it’ll only hit me tomorrow that I won out of all the 23 provinces,” winner Marcelo Herrera told press. “I’d arrived with every faith in winning,” he added.

It’s a profession, which has seen the Rey de la parrilla (King of the BBQ) travel from Chile to Italy with his gastronomic grilling skills which all started when he was 27 years old.

BA’s Gastronomy Dreams

“We are so proud of this festival,” said BA’s Head of Government Horacio Rodríguez Larreta as he presented the awards. “The idea is to make it even bigger and better every year.” It’s all part of a plan in the making to head up Buenos Aires as the gastronomic capital of Latin America.

Food Trucks

Newly given the green light in the city – gourmet food trucks and food fairs have quickly become a favoured food trend in the city and the Campeonato Federal del Asado 2017 didn’t disappoint in it’s selection.

Meaty favourites such as the crocante choripan (crispy sausage sandwich) with chimichurri (the classic saucy concoction of herbs and spices; onion, garlic, coriander, parsley, oregano, thyme, chili, lemon, olive oil and vinegar) to steak sandwiches with rocket, mustard and caramelized onions. Even veggies were catered for in this meat haven with lentil burgers and veggie kebabs in basil pesto.

Crowd pleasing food trucks offered up traditional, trendy and international flavours. Photo courtesy of BACapitalGastronomica.

And if you just wanted to say basta! (enough) to the choripan-mania then you’d be well catered for at the Patio de las Colectividades which offered up international taste bud ticklers such as Austrian, Jewish, Lebanese, Mexican, Colombian, French, Italian, Japanese and even Vietnamese cuisine.

As the sun shone on the BBQ’d streets, live traditional folklore music and dances played out on the main performance stage to accompany the serious wall to wall chowing-down. People of all ages milled around celebrating this grand Argentine tradition which to be honest – takes some beating.

To find out more about Argentina’s meaty story and what to ask for at the steak house read my other blog A Meat Lover’s Guide to Beef Cuts in Argentina.

More information about the Campeonato Federal del Asado here and on Facebook.

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO THE PERFECT ARGENTINE ASADO

2017-06-16T20:50:22Z

The fastest way to make enemies in Argentina is to compare the asado to a barbecue. It’s the same, right? No, the locals will tell you, through gritted teeth, it is not the same. Your gas-fuelled blow-torching of conveyor-belt beef patties has nothing in common with our sacred asado. They’ve got a point. Asado is cooking in its purest form – just fire, grill and meat – so it’s important that you get it right. Otherwise, you’ve got yourself a barbecue.

Here is our step-by-step guide to an authentic Argentine asado:

1. Start your fire. Make a stack of dry wood sitting on top of a heap of lump charcoal under the left-hand side of your parrilla, a cast-iron grill which can be adjusted to different heights.

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2. If he (always he) is having problems getting his fire to light, an Argentine will throw on a few pine cones – not briquettes, which taint the meat (and severely damage your rep as an asador).

3. Once the grill has heated up, give it a vigorous clean with newspaper to remove all yesterday’s carbonised cow and arm yourself with the tools of the asador – the shovel and rake – for moving embers around.

4. When the flames and smoke of your initial fire have relented, you will have a pile of smouldering charcoal to the left of your grill, from which you rake across glowing embers to sit under the right.

5. Lower the grill to 15cm above the smouldering bed of coals. Waiting in the wings are your cuts of meat, very specific to the asado, so introduce the biggest cuts first, starting with the tira de asado (short rib).

6. Allow 500g of meat per person. It sounds crazy, but the average Argentinean eats around 60kg of meat a year and half a kilo a head works out about right.

7. Keep the hottest coals aside to avoid fat dripping and flares of smoke, which spoil the flavour of the meat. Vacio (flank) and entraña (skirt) are two other flavoursome cuts, which respond beautifully to asado cooking.

8. It’s impossible to overcook beef in Argentina, as the locals like it medium to well done. If the meat is good, they say, this is the best way to cook it: low and slow.

Argentina meat sausage (chorizo) and meat short ribs (Tira de asado)

9. The steady cooking process – fiddling is frowned upon – will give you plenty of time for the social element of the asado, conducted over a glass of Malbec and a few picadas (cheese/ham/salami/olives on sticks).

10. Next onto the parrilla are the achuras (offal). The entry-level offal is mollejas [moh-shay-has], sweetbreads that are grilled to smokey crispness and served with a squeeze of lemon. Often these are the only achuras served, but they can also be accompanied by chinchulines [chin-choo-leen-ez] – intestines – and riñones [rin-yon-ez] – kidneys.

Chinchulines (achuras)

11. Now it’s the turn of the chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) and provoleta (discs provolone cheese) – last in, first onto plates.

12. Once all three are crisp on the outside and oozing within, the locals usually cut them into small pieces and serve them with slices of baguette, spread onto or sandwiched.

13. Once the meat is ready, your team of sous-chefs should have finished making your salads. Of course, a true Argentino doesn’t need a side of salad to justify his meat consumption (this is, after all, the country where vegetarians are served chicken) though an ensalada criolla – tomato, lettuce and onion dressed with oil and white wine vinegar – cuts through the richness of the meat perfectly.

14. Chimichurri, surprisingly, isn’t a fixture on Argentinean tables. And if it is, it’s certainly not glowing with fresh herbs – it’s based largely on dried oregano. You’re likely to find (more) salt on the dinner table, as well as some tangy salsa criolla, a fresh condiment made from red peppers, tomato, onion, parsley, oil and vinegar.

15. If you’ve done this right, you should be sitting down to a table groaning with meat and Malbec round about midnight. Serve the meat in the order that it’s ready.

16. Enjoy ‘un aplauso para el asador’ when you sit down. It’s no reflection on the quality of your output – applause is granted whatever the standard of the cooking – but by this point, you’ve earned it.

TELL ME HOW YOU CELEBRATE, I’LL TELL YOU WHAT TO UNCORK

2017-06-28T09:00:46Z

There aren’t many days on the calendar that offer an excuse to toast the old man, remember those who aren’t there yet, or celebrate a first Father’s Day when it’s time for a debut.

Every celebration, every encounter, every get-together, deserves a special wine. But what should you buy? What should you honour this day with? Whether in a large group, the family or just the two you, tell me how you celebrate, I’ll tell you what to uncork.

THERE ARE A THOUSAND OF US

It’s always the same scenario: Dad, the kids, grandparents, uncles, neighbours and the friend who joins every Sunday promising to grill. This gathering already assumes one sure outcome: several bottles will die in battle. So choose a variety of wines, not “give me a case of this or that”. If we’re going to buy six bottles, let them be six different ones.

The other key is the certainty that the affair will go on for hours, so my recommendation is to look for easy-to-drink wines that are wallet friendly, young and low alcohol. A juicy Malbec such as Esquinas de Argento can be a great starting point.

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Esquinas de Argento Malbec 2015

One more point: the time before the grilling starts is a good opportunity to prepare a very easy homemade Clerico. Fill a pitcher one third full with fruit cut into large chunks (at this time of year we use red apple, banana, orange slices and the last grapes of the season), a generous amount of sugar and half bottle of white vermouth. If there’s time, we let this macerate all night in the refrigerator. Then we pour in a bottle of rosé wine and top up the pitcher with soda.

JUST US TWO

The occasion merits it: you have to uncork a great wine that Dad enjoys. If not now, when? Here the point is to recognise what the old man prefers. It doesn’t matter if he likes intense reds that dye his lips violet, that Syrah with honey in the mouth and affable nose, or the Bonarda he enjoys ‘shocked’ with a splash of soda. In short, it’s his day, so we’re not going to hold it against him. No today, at least.

Argento Bonarda

There is an alternative that we reserve only if Dad is truly self-indulgent. We go to our wine merchant friend and set up a vertical tasting of his favourite wine. No more than three or four bottles of the same label, but different vintages. That Cabernet Sauvignon we know can hold up, his trusted favourite, we get it in, say, the 2016, 2015, 2014 and 2013 vintages. That night we will uncork them all together, pour into separate glasses and, between chewing the fat, we will enjoy how the years have made him, us and that red much wiser.

GRANDAD IS JOINING US

If Grandpa is in on the game, the game gets good.

In recent years, the style of Argentine wine has changed dramatically. The bottles that Grandad used to drink smelled of wood and the wisdom of time; the reds were lighter and it was difficult to find a trace of residue at the bottom of an emptied glass. Let’s just say that little to nothing remains of that profile. But for an occasion like this we could replicate it very easily.

Let’s go to the wine cellar, if we have one, or to the wine merchant, and look for the oldest vintage bottle to be found, the one that’s been forgotten since who knows when. Let’s pop the cork. We can even decant it, that is if we have a friendly relationship with that beautiful clear-glass vase that looks so nice on the table and complicates our life to rinse out. Let’s take the time to see how it unfolds in the glass, how those orange tones of age shake out, how it evolves minute after minute. And enjoy passing the time with grandad, who knows a lot about that.

IT’S THE FIRST FATHER’S DAY

You slept poorly yesterday, last week was full of interrupted nights and, you know, today the scenario is not going to be much different. Here comes a handy gift to yourselves, merited for the beautiful job (but job nonetheless) of being dads.

Argento Reserva Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc remains a strong contender. A sweet perfumed varietal like Malbec and a bit harsher in the mouth, a bit rougher, that today gives us some of the most intriguing Argentine reds. The Argento Reserva Cabernet Franc is a perfect medium-bodied wine to mitigate a heavy lunch during fresh autumn days. If there are lentils, game meats, stuffed pasta and plenty of carbohydrates, don’t hesitate.

And for dessert? Yes, the final uncorking should probably be sparkling. In recent years, Argentina has opened an infinite range of alternatives, venturing into different times of harvest, levels of residual sugar, combinations of grapes and methods of processing, but the best thing is that it’s virtually impossible to find something we don’t like.

Let us partake. After all, today we can beg for a well-deserved nap if lunch was too intense.

Get the grapes in! Mendoza’s Vendimia Harvest Festival

2017-05-15T20:29:01Z

Mooching around Mendoza’s vineyards is never a bad idea, but head there at the end of summer and you’ll be lucky enough to catch the cultural highlight of the Mendocino calendar – la Fiesta de la Vendimia. Vendimia literally means grape harvest, when fincas (wine estates) across the region are bursting with sugar sweet grapes hanging heavy and plump on the vines under the late summer sun – soon to be picked, processed and poured into a large wine glass near you. And that’s what Vendimia is all about – celebrating all the bountiful produce and hard work that goes into making Mendoza, Argentina’s top wine producer. But don’t mistake this for being a tame affair – things can get wild – especially at the alternative Gay Vendimia party where just about anything goes.

Naturally, The Real Argentina was there doing the hard work this year and in our photo grape guide you’ll find out all the need to knows. So sit back, read-up, and drink-up a delicious glass of Argento wine as you slurp down the background and get set for the next time Vendimia rolls around.

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Vintage Vendimia poster 1936. Photo: vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar

Early roots…

The earliest harvest festival on record dates back over a century to April 1913 when floats and parades filled the streets at the end of the Congress of Industry & Commerce. The vamped up and frankly extravagant version that exists today was only officially inaugurated on April 18^th, 1936.

Festivity Line-up…

Vendimia fever really starts building towards the end of February but the showy rituals are mostly condensed into a few heady days over the first weekend in March, which see all carnival bases covered – from religious ceremonies to old-skool beauty queen contests.

Bendición de Los Frutos

The bendición – or blessing – see’s Mendocino’s pay homage to the Virgin of the Carrodilla in gratitude for the bumper load of grapes bestowed on their vines that year. Held during the last week of February – the Archbishop of Mendoza leads the ceremony, supported by various government heads, truckloads of locals, tourists and – to make things look extra pretty – the beauty queens voted for from across the province.

Vía Blanca de Las Reinas

The praying soon gives way to parades and partying and the first Friday in March is when Vendimia excitement rolls out on to the streets – literally. First, a glass is raised in honour of the nominated beauty queen’s of the year at the Presentation of the Candidatas al Trono Nacional, and once that’s over – it’s time for the nocturnal treats to begin.

Fancifully decorated, the glitzy, music pumping floats representing Mendoza’s 18 districts weave their way through the whooping and cheering crowds. Themed with all things grapey and good about Argentina – tourists and locals bob and weave to get a good gawp at their favourite Vendimia Queen hopeful as they smile and wave and smile and wave and…blow kisses to their admiring public.

Top Tip: Avoid the gridlock. Ditch the car and head out on foot to muscle-in on the fun of the floats. Most main roads around the city are cut-off and it’ll be a bugger to find parking – get in – get out or indeed – anywhere. Proceedings kick off around 10pm, but with crowds of up to 200,000 each year, you’ll need to bagsy a spot early on if you want to see anything.

Carrusel de Las Reinas

Why have one parade when you can have two? After the Vía Blanca de Las Reinas, Vendimia continues with a slightly bleary-eyed 9am start on Saturday morning. This is the chance for proud Mendocino’s to really show-off their criollo roots with traditional shows of folclore music and dancing. Gauchos strut elegantly in their bombachas (traditional country trousers) and berets whilst others show off their horsemanship finesse. Segue that scene into a culture clash of sequined costumes and visceral drums which must mean the murgueros have arrived! The traditional marching bands of percussionists and dancers bring the booty shaking carnival beats to the table – quite a wake up call!

The Carrusel parade through Mendoza’s streets 1953. Photo: vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar

Top Tip: Go local and bring a basket or fishing net along (seriously) so you can catch the random produce thrown from the passing floats. It’s a classic Vendimia thing, but be warned – this is no joke for locals and you might get elbowed by an abuela (grandma) in the scrum for the fruits and veggies chucked overboard.

Explosions of confetti and colour in the Acto Central. Photo: vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar

El Acto Central

The biggest draw of Vendimia – El Acto Central is a huge stage show spectacle. Think abridged Olympics opening ceremony and you’re getting the idea. Held in the Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day amphitheatre just outside town – you’ll see strobe lights and hear the whipped up crowd before you enter the hallowed gates.

‘Con el vino en la piel,’ was this year’s theme. Loosely translated as ‘wine is skin deep,’ it goes to show – as if proof were needed – just how integral wine is to Mendocino’s. 2017 also marks the 200-year anniversary since General San Martín (1778-1850) led the nation to Independence from Spain and the theme set up the night’s performances. Over 1000 athletic performers took spectators on a historical dance-filled journey through Argentina’s past from folclore to waltzes, polka to tango. Huarpes, the original people of the Cuyo region were honoured as well as recognition of the multitudes of immigrants which have landed on the continent’s shores. Claudio Brachetta directed the gifted band of live musicians who shone across all genres.

Honouring General San Martín in the Acto Central extravaganza.

Things kicked off a day later than planned this year due to a near fatal accident where a crane fell on to the stage during rehearsals, bringing part of the rigging down with it. Consequently, all the performances were pulled and its credit to director Héctor Moreno and the performers who managed to improvise and rapidly adapt so the show could go on. It wouldn’t be Argentina without a protest though and a number of performers circled the stage at the finale, one hand over their mouths, the other pointing at where the crane had fallen.

Top Tip: The ticketed event is often a sell-out so make sure you get in early on ticket sales by keeping an eye on Mendoza’s government press web. Saturday night is the main show down where the Vendimia Queen is announced but if you miss out – the performance is repeated the following two days – minus Queens – but with the Sunday addition of folclore bands and rock nacional on Monday night. If you’re really out of luck with tickets or just don’t fancy paying, join other locals and scale to the top of the Cerro de la Gloria hill which the auditorium is built into. The hosts even given the hill dwellers a shout-out as they soak up the on-stage action.

The Queens

The hopeful Vendimia Queens to be really are treated like royalty. Not the most modern element of the celebrations, they’re still integral to a tradition that goes back to the 1930’s. Each of the 18 districts vote for their own Queen who enters a battle of the beauties against the rest of the regions chosen ones. People love it. I was genuinely taken aback by the overflowing enthusiasm.

Celebrating with 2017’s Vendimia Queen & Vice Queen. Photo: vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar

Not without its controversy, 300 randomly selected spectators casted the deciding votes this year in a first for a new voting system. Masses of fans bussed in to support their fave girls and giant sized posters of the candidates – some even lit up with fairy-lights – were brandished with pride until the final votes came in. Whoops and screams bubbled up effusively from the super fans as their girls were mentioned.

Victoria Colovatti – a 20 year old psychology student from Maipú stole the crown this year alongside the Vice Queen, Romina Pettaro from San Carlos. But among the cheers a wave of ‘boo’s’ also erupted in response to one rival who’d apparently spoken about a ‘women’s place being in the home with the children.’ I think the irony was lost on the adoring fans enjoying the contest.

Queens of a different kind…

If all this harvest festival lark just sounds too tame for your liking – check out the alternative side at Vendimia Gay where the Queens are not always what they seem.

Colourfully camp at at Gay Vendimia. Photo: Diariouno.

The LBGT community knows how to put on a party and has been flying the festival flag for the last 20 years. The biggest gay shindig outside of Buenos Aires’ Pride festival sees headonists from around the world getting down under the banner, ‘Vendimia for Everyone.’

Events go on throughout the second week of March and like the Acto Central – are topped off by a brazen extravaganza at the Arena Maipú Stadium. Queens and Kings are crowed here in an altogether more sensationally sexed up mix of drag artists, pole dancers and DJ’s. Not for the uninitiated!

Top Tip: This years tickets were sold via Evenpass.

MENDOZA’S TOP 5 CAFÉS

2017-04-04T17:09:57Z

You notice very fast that the people of Mendoza take their café culture seriously. Spending a day strolling the streets of Argentina’s wine capital you breathe in the atmosphere of a city where people enjoy life and sits in cafés sipping coffee and chatting. As one of the most European-like cities in Argentina, it’s no wonder Mendoza’s people take their café culture seriously. Strolling around the city passing by its coffee places and the abundance of outdoor servings along the streets and avenues, Mendoza invites you to enjoy its buzzling café life. Sit down, grab a coffee and a pastry or even a healthy pot of flavoursome tea. It’s just the right place to soak in the city’s relaxing atmosphere. Here are five of our top picks.

Bröd

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The trendiest and sleekest café in town, Bröd, serves yummy apple crumbles, sandwiches, custard tarts garnished with fresh berries, pumpkin and carrot rolls and thirst-quenching lemonades with mint and lemon and juices. Run by Sebastian Flores, former chef at beautiful Cavas Wine Lodge in Luján de Cuyo, you won’t be disappointed by the high standards of this place. Located right on street Chile 894 in the centre of town, it’s perfect for when you want to get a decent start to your morning, with poached or scrambled eggs and a variety of bread and pastries. Staff is young and hip with matching outfits and the ambience intimate. Drop by on Sunday after 11am when this trendy place serves one of those rare Argentinean brunches.

Bröd, Chile 894, +54 261 425 2993

Bonafide

No city in Argentina is complete without a Bonafide. This no frills café chain serving good quality coffee and selling a range of chocolate never seems to disappoint. This is the place you go for a tasty cappuccino and a classic Argentine tostado (toasted sandwich with jam and cheese). The different types of coffee beans from Brazil and Colombia and variety of roasted blends serve as a base to the classic café con leche (coffee with milk) and their range of flavoured cappuccinos. For those who are not as dedicated coffee lovers there is also a decent choice of flavoured frappuccinos and smoothies, as well as yummy hot chocolates to choose from. No matter what you like one should not visit Mendoza without having a cup in this straightforward café that has a few branches dotted around town.

Bonafide, Av. San Martín 1483, +54 261 423 3575

Jebbs

In the leafy suburb of Chacras de Coria lies this hugely popular and classic café and bakery. With a big outdoor seating area perfect for breezy summer afternoons and a traditional counter with pastries, sandwiches and irresistible medialunas (Argentine croissants) it’s hard not to feel at home here. The ambience invites to long and very relaxing afternoons sipping coffee (although they also make delicious hot chocolates and thirst quenching freshly squeezed orange juices) and reading the newspaper and soak in the amicable atmosphere of Mendoza life. Once you managed to leave you can pick up some bread to enjoy later for dinner or a classic ham and cheese empanada to savour on the way.

Jebbs, Mitre 1460, Chacras de Coria, +54 261 496 2183

Silla 14

The most stylish and sophisticated café in town serves coffee made by passionate baristas Maximiliano García Blanco and Carlos Arón Rojas, lighter food composed by skilled chef Vitaly Kozelkov and beautifully created cakes by baker Macarena Arancibia. Silla 14 is owner Julieta Soldini’s dream of what a great café is, serving high quality coffee and delicious food and cakes to match and devour. The elegant and airy interior heightens the experience and if you want coffee seen as an art form this is the place to go. Try the croissants and scones or if you feel a bit indulgent a cup cake or alfajor.

Silla 14, San Lorenzo 656, +54 261 423 8837

Tea and Company

There’s a lot of focus on coffee in this Italian and French inspired city called Mendoza, but for tea aficionados there are places like Tea and Company. It has chosen to specialise in healthy infusions and aromatic brews and with one branch out in Chacras de Coria and another one in Godoy Cruz, this is for when you’re in the city’s suburbs and long for a steaming, relaxing cup of tea. The place has a huge variety of flavours to choose from. In summer go for the blood orange or lemonade iced teas and on cool days opt for tea flavours like Belgium Nougat or Hot Compat – a blend of plum, pear, apple, cinnamon and chilli. If you really feel like splurging out on delicious sweet and spoil yourself, Tea and Company also serves afternoon teas.

Tea and Company, Viamonte and Larrea, Chacras de Coria, +54 261 496 1051

THE BEST CORNERS IN BUENOS AIRES FOR ANY SOCIAL OCASSION

2017-04-03T14:58:19Z

Buenos Aires is a city for living. Weekday or weekend, morning or evening, Argentina’s capital is abuzz with joie de vivre, and nowhere is this more apparent than on the city’s corners. Yes, that sacred space at the end of every block where the buildings’ edges clip back at all four points, opening the intersection up for an urban hug. Street life is a great indicator of the spirit of any city, and judging by las esquinas alone, Buenos Aires excels at living life to the full. We round up some of the best junctions for any social occasion to help you live your best Buenos Aires life.

Best Corner for a Date

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Esquina Julian Alvarez and Jufre, Villa Crespo. Ph: Sorcha O’Higgins

This junction has all the ingredients a perfect Villa Crespo corner should possess; cobbled streets, quiet roads, bike lanes and drooping tree canopies. It also has a double-whammy of perfect date spots – traditional cantina La Mamma Rosa and quaint wine bar Cava Jufre. La Mamma Rosa dates back to 1988 and is a favourite spot among locals, who flock here for Sunday lunch with their families, but on a weeknight it is an ideal destination to bring a guy or girl that wants to be wooed the old fashioned way. Wood paneled interiors, white-curtained windows and waiters straight out of the Buenos Aires book of old-school onda, La Mamma Rosa will have you Lady And The Tramp-ing your way through their delicious plates of pasta and playing footsie under the table-clothed tables. The restaurant is also steeped in local legend: sadly, the eponymous Rosa, was actually killed by thieves who broke into her house a number of years ago. If that’s too much of a tearjerker, skip dinner altogether and head straight to Cava Jufre across the road for the decent picada and great selection of wine. Choose between comfy couches, kerbside tables or seats in the window but watch out for the flirty waiter, he might try and steal your date!

Best Corner for Bars

Esquina Billinghurst and Guardia Vieja, Almagro. Ph: Sorcha O’Higgins

Often overlooked in favour of the hipper Palermos, Almagro offers a low-key and local alternative to Palermo’s tourist-led prices and patrons. Guardia Vieja has it all going on, and choosing between the corner of Bulnes or that of Billinghurst was tough, but Billinghurst took the crown mainly because of El Banderin, one of the city’s most loved bares notables. Dating back to the mid 1920’s, El Banderin’s interior is an homage to the devout worship of Argentina favourite sport, football. Covered with bunting from different soccer teams, El Banderin is the perfect place to enjoy a litro and some empanadas, in contrast to its uber porteño neighbour across the street, which is where you wanna go with a group of friends and order a platter and some strong Fernet y Cocas. Guarda La Vieja is just one of the bars on this street that have similar and confusing names, so make sure you specify cross streets to your friends or they’ll most likely end up at La Vieja Guardia back near Bulnes. Get to Guarda La Vieja early or you’ll have to wait, as this bar evokes 90’s nostalgia in both its vibe and decor and is thriving pretty much every night of the week.

Best Corner for Food

Esquina Francisco Acuña de Figueroa and Humahuaca, Almagro

There are many corners that could have taken this title, but this unassuming esquina in Almagro wins out because of the diversity and quality of its restaurants in the space of just one corner. Slow clap it up for arguably one of the best Peruvian restaurants in the city, so good it only has a few tables that fill up quickly, so be sure to reserve in advance. Lúcuma gives nothing away from its exterior, but the deliciousness of the perfectly presented plates will leave you rubbing your belly in satisfaction. Order the tamarind pork for something a little different, or go with old faithful ceviche, and they also make a damn good Pisco Sour. Across the road, local flavours abound in this most typical of barrio parrillas. A huge hit with both locals and foreigners alike, Lo De Mary is a no-frills joint that makes up for what it lacks in customer service (the owners are notoriously cantankerous) in mouth-watering meat and generous portions, so come hungry. A big mural on the Centro Cultural Teresa Israel depicting Che Guevara and accordion-toting tangueros will keep you occupied as you wait for your food.

Best Corner for Tourists

Esquina Costa Rica and Gurruchaga, Palermo Soho. Ph: Loving Buenos Aires

A stone’s throw away from both Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia, this lively corner has funneled the best Palermo has to offer into one happening esquina. The splayed corners of the buildings seem to pull back even further and good use is made of the extra space, giving the intersection a distinctly European feel and tricking you into thinking you are in Rome or Barcelona. Colourful buildings in pastel pink or green are paired with striped awnings and wooden chairs and tables, inviting you to sit outside and sip a coffee while watching the beautiful people of Palermo pass by. Don’t expect great food as this is more a spot to see and be seen, so crack out your best shades and soak up the ambience.

Best Corner for Trendsetting

Esquina El Salvador and Fitz Roy, Palermo Hollywood

There’s never a dull moment on this esquina – with bars, restaurants and plenty of dining al fresco, it’s definitely a contender for trendiest corner in the consistently growing Palermo Hollywood, if not the city. On one side is the ever-popular restaurant Las Cabras, whose outdoor patio is always packed to the brim with customers who come for the cheap eats as well as the buena onda. There’s usually a wait to sit outside to come ready to queue, as Argentines love to do. On the opposite side of the street, the sleek Negroni bar serves up potent cocktails in a classy setting, with the walls peeling back to connect the inside with the outside, giving you the full corner experience. Not exactly on this corner but deserving of an honorable mention, is tapas restaurant Esperanza de los Ascurra on Fitz Roy, also worth checking out.

Best Corner for Roof Terraces

Esquina Niceto Vega and Humboldt, Palermo Hollywood

This corner on the limit of Palermo Hollywood and Chacarita beckons those night-owls who prowl the clubs lining Niceto Vega on a Friday or Saturday night. Live music venue Carnal and neighbouring tropical pub Tiki Bar both have badass terrazas upstairs and are the ideal place to go for a few drinks before the night really begins, which we know in Argentina is not until about 2am. Overlooking Niceto Vega, this corner is also in close proximity to two other terrazas of note – Ferona across the road on Humboldt, a hook-up spot with good music and a friendly vibe, and Gull, a craft beer bar on Humboldt and Cabrera that has great burgers, a long gin menu and some cool street art on the wall above.

CUATRO ESQUINAS: FOUR CLASSIC CORNER RESTAURANTS IN BUENOS AIRES

2017-03-28T19:53:46Z

You’ve got a favourite corner restaurant in Buenos Aires, haven’t you? Whichever neighbourhood you live in or have stayed in, there’s surely one establishment, a restorán de la esquina, that’s captured your heart. Thanks to their very architecture, corner establishments in Buenos Aires stand out for that bevelled, three-sided entrance (known as arquitectura en ochava in Spanish) that lets diners and drinkers inadvertently interact, gazing out at a city in movement. And many of these classic establishments date back to the 19th century, oozing history, stories – oh, the tales these floors and walls could tell! Here, The Real Argentina visits four emblematic restaurant esquinas in Buenos Aires.

EL IMPERIO DE LA PIZZA, Chacarita

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Photo by Jorge Soto

Not only is El imperio de la pizza perfectly placed on the cross streets of Avenues Corrientes and Federico Lacroze, one of Chacarita’s busiest esquinas, but this emblematic pizzería cleverly set up shop slap bang in front of a prime transport hub as well as Argentina’s largest cemetery; the living still have to eat, after all. Night manager Jorge Soto explains El Imperio’s success since opening its three sets of doors in 1947.

“This corner sees a lot of people from diverse backgrounds pass through: street vendors, office workers, labourers. They all stop by as we’re right in front of Federico Lacroze train and subway stations and from the moment El imperio opens in the morning, we’re full. All day, all night, people come and go.

“Monday to Friday we open at 5am and close at 2am, while we never close at weekends. At 5am, people come for pastries and coffee then go to work, maybe to a building site or take the train or subte. Others start coming in for a slice of muzza and fainá at 11.30am, then, when the home crowd returns from work, they drop by religiously for a slice at 7pm or 8pm.”

Although public transport in Buenos Aires has improved in the past couple of years, a porción of muzza or fugazetta is the perfect pick-me-up after a tough journey. Jorge adds: “Commuters come out of the subway, desperate for a slice of pizza, and they eat it standing.”

In addition, one man’s loss is another’s gain, given that the floor-to-ceiling windows of this emblematic esquina also overlook Argentina’s largest burial ground. He says: “El imperio is also located opposite Chacarita cemetery so people used to come to hold a wake for their dearly departed.”

What to order: a slice of muzza, obvio

Address: Corrientes 6895, Chacarita

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Pizzería Santa María, Corrientes 6801

LA CABRERA, Palermo Soho

It will be 15 years in December since chef-patron Gastón Riveira turned a former mattress factory on the esquina of Thames and Cabrera into one of Buenos Aires’ most renowned steak houses. Born and bred in Palermo, Gastón always knew he’d open his first restaurant in his barrio – and that it would have a corner location.

He says: “This zone used to be filled with all kinds of workshops and the building La Cabrera occupies started out as a mattress factory; it later became a bar where people played cards, consuming the famous vermouth and soda from a syphon.”

“I was the chef at Buenos Aires News [nightclub] when I started to think about my first restaurant. Corners are a selling point with added value because of the double street view. I wanted it to look like a French bistro that was fun but broke all the fixed ideas that a restaurant usually offers. And this really is an esquina del barrio.”

“As I’m from Palermo, I have a lot of faith and affection for the barrio. I went to primary school on Güemes and Uriarte plus my grandfather had a furniture shop here; lots of pieces from his store are in the restaurant today.”

What to order: bife de chorizo to share, with fries

Address: Cabrera 5099, Palermo Soho

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Don Julio, Guatemala 4699

DAMBLÉE, Almagro

Sit at a table on the ground floor of Damblée, and sooner or later you’ll feel the throb of Buenos Aires, the A line rumbling underneath your thighs coupled with a steady stream of traffic heading north out of the city. In fact, this fish restaurant started out life on the opposite corner of Avenida Rivadavia 19 years ago before moving to the east side of this Almagro esquina in 2012.

Owner Gustavo Cano Vila says: “This corner dates back from 1935 to the 1960s when it was a casa de bailes carnival, then from 1965 onwards it was home to tango salon, Bailemos, on the first floor. A chocolate shop and bookstore have also functioned on the ground floor.”

“While we spent 18 months restructuring the interior, opening in 2011, we didn’t touch the outside so this corner still has those original typical high windows, with large openings.”

“This Almagro esquina is a typical Buenos Aires one; Carlos Gardel was born in this barrio. Our corner is precisely named after two Sánchez: Sánchez de Bustamante and Sánchez de Loria, two leaders who played crucial roles in the fight for Argentina’s independence. Avenida Rivadavia is pretty mystical too, as it’s considered one of the longest avenues in the world.”

Besides its emblematic esquina location, Damblée is one of Buenos Aires’ top seafood restaurants. Dine here and order chunky anchovies and grilled sardines – a rarity in BA – best paired with Argento’s Esquinas Pinot Grigio.

What to order: Grilled sardines with an apple salad

Address: Av. Rivadavia 3401, Almagro

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Confiterías Las Violetas, Rivadavia 3899

LO DE JESÚS, Palermo Soho

Ph: Lo de Jesús

A bright turquoise esquina on Gurruchaga and Cabrera, this Palermo corner has always had a foodie, drinkie theme to it. Starting out as a small bar run by El Turco in the 1920s, Jesús Pernas took over the space in 1953.

It was Don Jesús’ cured ham sandwiches, cut with a Berkel slicer, and wife Lola’s matambres that really put this place on the map. Locals used to come to this general store to play cards, have a snack and sip vermouth or red-hued plonk back in the 1950s. These days, however, it’s home to one of Buenos Aires’ most pictueresque bodegones, Lo de Jesús. Original details such as paving stones shipped over from Europe remain, as does much of Don Jesús’ décor.

Martín Tomás Sammartino, owner, says: “This corner is bien de barrio, and Jesús used to live on one of the opposite esquinas. When we opened in 2002, the intention was to continue Don Jesus’ project from 1953 but making it more sophisticated, maintaining its essence and mysticism, but also serving steaks.”

“The interior dates back to the era: soda syphons, the mirrors, chandeliers, hams hanging from the ceiling, stained glass installed in 1906 plus we still have the Berkel slicer Jesús used to use. But the contemporary touch is that we open every day of the year at midday and close at 1am; the kitchen never shuts so if you desire a bife de chorizo at midday or 5pm, you can have it.”

As for Don Jesús himself, he’s still alive at 95 though he resides in a retirement home these days.

What to order: jamón crudo followed up by rib-eye or grilled pacú fish

Address: Gurruchaga 1406, Palermo Soho

Another notable bodegón corner worth a look in the barrio: Club Eros, Uriarte 1609

Romance in Argentina: Dating Tips and Advice

2017-02-10T18:03:27Z

This is not a Facebook relationship status but trust me, it’s complicated. Embarking on the minefield which is Latin dating can be riddled with uneven paths and furious explosions as well as tears, suffering and angst. Over the top? No way, José – I was married to an Argentine for nine years and could be the person to get you clambering over the initial hurdles with some first dating tips.

My lessons in Argentine love kick off with a psychology degree. If you’re already qualified, then you’re streets ahead of the rest of us. Your journey and my story end here. Three extra years of studies aside, a peek at the national psyche won’t hurt: around two-thirds of Argentines’ roots belong in the birthplace of the pizza (classic date fodder, by the way) and if anyone likes a drama, it’s the Italians. The eruptions, the bubbling passion, the fire – Vesuvius might as well be mixed into the Argentine gene pool.

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“You have to work much harder, that’s for sure” – British man

Blowing hot and cold is all part of the game so take an Argentine-size pinch of salt when embarking on a new adventure. One blogger simply calls it a “rollercoaster”. In fact, you’ll have to work even harder since being single is apparently in fashion, even when Tinder and Happn are the most popular dating apps these days (with 20 and 10 million users each other). Or what it’s even worse: “We are the generation who doesn’t want a relationship but the problem is is that, at the end of the day, we actually do” – The Huffington Post.

A media naranja (other half) is kept on their toes from the early stages, needy and anxious like a sick puppy on a drip feed. Will he ring? The answer’s no, not for three days, WhatsApp messages will be key in the beginning. Will she reply to my text to go for a drink? Unlikely and what if your castellano isn’t up to scratch? Knock back two pints of Dutch courage to call, indulging her in an ego massage and putting your own vulnerable pride and linguistic skills on the line. Warning one: texts invariably “don’t” arrive when it’s convenient for them not to. Warning two: many Argentine women give booze a wide berth so perhaps coffee and a cupcake is a better first-date option… they’re sweet of the tooth, you know.

Romantic stroll on the sand – Ph by Yolanda

“Argentine men are unfaithful and annoying” – Salvadoran woman

Although it would take a giant-size broom to clean up that sweeping statement, the general consensus is that Argentines are histericos (hysterical) – but even they agree with that. Like a river, every twist and turn brings about a new drama or excuse so brace yourself for a rocky ride, and don‘t be surprised if the object of your obsession already has a media naranja. Always have a plan B to accommodate for forgotten birthday parties and cousins’ graduations when the inevitable last-minute bailout message arrives. Come up with your own “must-go-to” house warming bash mid-date and see how they like the tables being turned. They’ll probably love it – and be back for more.

Conversely, the ones you wouldn’t touch with that giant broom are persistent. An American sommelier met a bus driver in a bar. Over dinner, the guy called her four times, with nothing relevant to say. By the time we paid, even I was over him.

Game of Two Halves

Asking foreigners about dating Argentines offered up a huge amount of feedback but there are principally two lines: dates from hell and those with happy endings. One girl tried to stab a French-Canadian friend with scissors; another story involved a gay Satan worshipper picked up at San Telmo’s Sunday fair, who was later found to have a net hanging above his bed. Who knows how many unsuspecting gringos have been caught up in his web? Conversely, plenty of foreign friends are in a state of marital bliss with Argentines, babies and all, so try not to assume all Argentines carry sharp implements about their person.

On the upside, chivalry has a strong pulse in Argentine’s culture so ladies should expect – and embrace – a return to old-school manners. I went for coffee with a former colleague in London. He marched into the café and bang! I was left with a Starbucks-shaped logo on my forehead. In Buenos Aires I rarely pay for coffee, a cocktail or dinner – unless I’m out with a foreign guy – and my forehead remains logo-free.

“Smile because I love you” – Ph by Daniel Lobo

Flexibilty is crucial in making dating work in Argentina, according to Annie Ory, a dating and relationship coach from the US, so maybe I should let that debt go. Working in Buenos Aires for three years with “blended” couples, she says: “Be flexible and adaptive when it comes to local dating and relationship etiquette, keep a firm hold on your own values, and don’t judge. Belief systems, standards of behaviour and assumptions will be different. It’s very common to experience extreme disconnects in communication, expectations and behaviours. When this happens it is fair to tell your partner that certain behaviours are unacceptable to you, but avoid saying things that might make your partner feel you are judging them personally. Remember you are in their world and it is likely that your behaviour is unusual or unexpected. This doesn’t mean you should let go of your own standards of behaviour, just that it is helpful to remember theirs are just as valid.”

By taking on board an expert’s pearls of wisdom as well as my emergency love kit comprising a salt cellar, a titanium-encased heart and a life jacket, perhaps your Facebook status might have to change in the near future.

*This post has been re-edited on February, 2017.

CUATRO ESQUINAS: FOUR NOTABLE CORNER BARS IN BUENOS AIRES

2017-02-06T13:54:53Z

You’ve got a favourite corner bar in Buenos Aires, haven’t you? Whichever neighbourhood you live in or have stayed in, there’s surely one watering-hole, a bar de la esquina, that’s captured your heart. Thanks to their very architecture, corner bars in Buenos Aires tend to be the prettiest, standing out for that bevelled, three-sided entrance (known as arquitectura en ochava in Spanish) that lets diners and drinkers inadvertently interact, gazing out at a city in movement. And many of these classic establishments date back to the 19th century, oozing history, stories – oh, the tales these floors and walls could tell! Here, The Real Argentina visits four emblematic esquinas in Buenos Aires.

LA FLOR DE BARRACAS, Barracas

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An insider view of the corner. Ph by La Flor de Barracas

While paperwork confirms that La flor de Barracas has operated since 1906, it’s more likely this corner bar opened nine years earlier in 1897, according to current co-owner Carlos Cantini. But it certainly wasn’t one of Barracas’ emblematic esquinas back then…

Carlos says: “Originally called Fonda genoa (Genovese Tavern), this establishment has always served up food and drinks. And back then, right opposite, was the railway repair yard. That attracted all sorts of changarines (casual labourers) and characters working there; so many, that this area was known for its knife fights.”

Known variously as Luna Tarzan and even Luna Park – a boxing reference given those engine repairmen’s penchant for punch-ups – La flor is fortunately blooming once again. A family affair, Carlos, his wife, brothers and cousin took over the premises two years ago, keen to retain its centenarian ambience. This bar goes beyond vintage, it’s undoubtedly authentic, bien de barrio. Well-worn black-and-white floor tiles must have witnessed more than a few tangos, the vast L-shaped wooden bar is well stocked with vermouth, while those all-important sash windows look south. That daily panorama has changed substantially in 120 years from pampa to cityscape but regulars still love those window seats, according to Carlos.

As for décor, the original parrilla complete with sliding cover is enjoying retirement in the patio bar, old milk jugs double up as vases, while wine highlights are penned across a mirror. One of Buenos Aires’ most authentic esquinas, that’s for sure.

What to order: Homemade veggie ravioli

Address: Suárez 2095, Barracas

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: El Progreso

EL HIPOPÓTAMO, San Telmo

Facade. Ph by Sorrel Moseley-Williams

Overlooking cobblestoned Calle Defensa, Parque Lezama and Avenida Brasil in one hit, one of San Telmo’s most picturesque and historic esquinas, El Hipópotamo started life in 1909 as a grocery and beverage delivery store called Estrella del Sur. And, 108 years later, business is still booming at this corner tavern, frequented by both faithful residents and visitors passing through. Managed for the past 12 years by inimitable matriarch Ana Sala, she recounts a little hippo history.

“Workers from the nearby port used to come here to drink wine and play cards. And while we’ve undertaken some renovations, the bar is original and there are still hooks in the ceiling that fed ropes laden with goods into the basement. We replaced the red paving stone floor four years ago, though. I think Christopher Columbus brought it over, it was so ancient,” she says.

With sausages and legs of ham suspended above the service bar, El Hipópotamo’s soul is very much a Spanish one, even serving cider on tap. And here, the kitchen makes many dishes from scratch, including dough for a wide array of pasta dishes.

At any given moment – and given that this bar opens at 7am and closes at 2am, later at the weekend, it really can be any given moment – an unobtrusive parade of hawkers passes through the Hipopótamo, bandoneón players hammering out mournful tangos or vendors selling hair accessories, but it’s all part of the makeup that gives this bar, in this neighbourhood, its unique character.

What to order: cider on tap and a charcuterie plate to share

Address: Brasil 401, San Telmo

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Bar Sur

FLORIDA GARDEN, Retiro

Florida Garden. Ph by Nicolas de Fribourg

One of writer Jorge Luis Borges’ preferred haunts, Florida Garden is a modern corner classic that opened its doors in 1963. And while ceiling-to-floor panels and curved copper-covered stairway and mural replace the standardised bar notable format of sash windows and lashings of wood, regardless, this is time-warp gold from a different era.

Career waiters, many of whom have worked the two salons for 20, 30 and even 40-plus years, are decked out in white jackets, white shirts and black dicky bows; perhaps only the Alvear Palace Hotel could claim to employ more elegant staff.

Laid across two floors that look out over Calles Florida, a shopper’s heaven or hell depending on your perspective that also doubles up as bustling Microcentro, and Paraguay, the ground floor divides up into an Italian-style, bakery-espresso bar for caffeine on the hop, a main salon and back bar that serves up clericot and apéretifs. Here, you really can watch the world go about its business. The mezzanine’s quieter ambience, however, is more conducive to conversation and, dare I say it, illicit meetups.

What to order: tostado mixto with your caffeine of choice

Address: Florida 899, Retiro

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Confitería Saint Moritz

LOS GALGOS, San Nicolás

Los Galgos corner. Ph by Santiago Ciuffo

“Los Galgos is located on an emblematic corner, which is why it’s lasted so long. That identity comes from its corner, an esquina porteña. It’s always been a meeting point for politicians, musicians and artists, and it’s close to the UCR political party’s headquarters. Tango musician Enrique Santos Discépolo used to come here, as did bandoneonistas and composers Aníbal Troilo and Astor Piazzolla. Fortunately, it’s not just a melancholic tourist place but one with identity that maintains its past, and adapts to the present while looking to the future,” says co-owner Julián Díaz.

Dating back to 1930, Los galgos’ (The Greyhounds) recent past has been checkered, closing down briefly after the owner died a few years back. But when Julián took it over in 2015 to give it a new lease of life, he very much wanted to retain the story of this, one of San Nicolás’ most emblematic esquinas.

The bar’s woodwork is original, as are the oak walls, doors and sash windows, and while a white ceramic greyhound watches from its perch above the bar, its black friend has mysteriously disappeared, according to Julián. “Cients such as Ricardo have been coming for hundreds of years; he’s totally part of the furniture,” he adds.

What to order: frogs’ legs for dinner

Address: Callao 501, San Nicolás

Another notable corner worth a look in the barrio: Café Mar Azul

What’s your favourite bar de la esquina in Buenos Aires? Tell us in the comments below.