Amazing Australian Adventures

Lake Cullulleraine: So COOL it's HOT!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 11:44:00 +0000

Late Afternoon from the Bushman's Rest Caravan Park at Lake Cullulleraine, Victoria

I'm not sure why it's never occurred to us to stop at Lake Cullulleraine, 58 km west of northern Mildura and deep in the heart of the Victorian Mallee.

Until now.

HHHMMMmmm... wonder how many others have captured this Lake Cullulleraine tree?! Victoria

Only 3½ hours from Adelaide, the Cullulleraine (as it is shown on more modern maps) is a perfect example of why it's SO worth exploring places not so far from home, something us long-distance road-trip experts tend not to do.

Misty Morning at Bushman's Rest Caravan Park, Lake Cullulleraine

So when we left home much later than anticipated, and spent an inordinately long lunchtime at the FAAAAABULOUS Renmark Patisserie Café/Bakery AND then crossed the border into Victoria thereby gaining half an hour, we realised we'd be getting to Mildura on dusk.

Something Pilchard swore we'd never do.

So we pulled in to the Bushman's Rest Caravan Park for a drive by.

That's a euphemism for 'check and see if it looks like it's full of psychos and axe murderers before we commit to staying', in case you were wondering … and if it doesn't pass the 'whaddayareckon' test, we – yes, you guessed it – drive by!

This sign's doctored, right? RIGHT?????

Bushman's Rest passed with flying colours, (despite the sign in the amenities block ...) especially when the manager, unprompted, gave us a 10% discount!

Even without knowing he was speaking with Red Nomad OZ – although I guess this post will give the game away ...

The huge lawned lakefront site with power and a view to die for as the sun started sinking behind the clouds, far enough off the Sturt Highway to muffle the traffic noise and with no one else much around may mean we never stay in Mildura again!!

It also meant we stayed an extra day. Even though we woke to heavy fog and winter temperatures.

Cormorants in the Mist, Lake Cullulleraine, Victoria

A few kilometres north (although not enough to make any difference to the weather) is the Lock 9 weir, constructed in the mid 1920's and one of 13 locks along the Murray River (or River Murray, depending on which school you went to, and how long ago).

Lock 9 and its SIGN! Murray River, Victoria

Absolute virgin territory (ie neither of us had been there before), it's a wild stretch where few houseboats venture.

Although the sign at the lock warns of a different danger ...

Although Lake Cullulleraine is 9 metres above the river level, there's still a lot of floodplain in between that would have been inundated during the massive 1956 floods, the benchmark against which all floods in these parts are measured. With 100 times the volume of water than that flowing through the river now!

The 184 hectare Lake, once an ephemeral wetland, has been topped up since the 1920's to provide a permanent water supply for a post-war farming scheme in the Millewa district.

Lake Cullulleraine Supply Channel, Victoria

The 10.4 km walking trail circumnavigating the lake (8.6 km if you take the shortcut!) passes through a number of habitats, over the Supply Channel Bridge AND – most unexpected of all – past a now disused Scenic Public Toilet on a rise behind the old boat ramp.

From which that killer sunset is best viewed …

Sunset over Lake Cullulleraine from the Scenic Public Toilet ruins, Victoria

As we relaxed on the lake front after our 8.6 km stroll (yes, we took the shortcut!), the manager gave his boat plane a workout from the jetty directly in front – presumably in preparation for the upcoming R/C Float Plane event in early July! Little did he know he – and his plane – would soon be appearing on my blog …

The Float Plane flies TOO HIGH! Float-planning from Lake Cullulleraine Jetty, Bushman's Rest Caravan Park

Albeit separately - my sports photography skills being insufficient to get a clear shot of the plane in the air!

The Float Plane has Landed ...

As dusk fell, and countless Purple Swamphen gathered in anticipation of beating the possums to our leftovers, we knew we'd lucked out.

It had never before occurred to us to stop at Lake Cullulleraine.

But we won't be making that mistake again – we've still got the attractions on the southern side of the highway to explore!

And there's not an axe murderer in sight …

Read MORE:

Walking around Lake Cullulleraine, Victoria

6 Random Moments at the Broome Bird Observatory!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 13:41:00 +0000

Blue Sky, Blue Sea - and RED Pindan, Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory

1 The Gun Birder*

As far as I could tell, driving a bouncing 4WD with 4 passengers along a rough station track in search of Australia's rarest bird wasn't cramping the gun birder's style one bit. All I could see were the vast, rolling plains of grass and samphire stretching to the horizon against an endless blue sky.

But our driver and guide on the Broome Bird Observatory Yellow Chat tour, unfazed by the spectacular scenery, could spot a bird at a hundred paces.

Calling birds to the left, right, in front and behind, he parked the 4WD at the massive lagoon, our destination and site of multiple Yellow Chat sightings, handed out the telescopes and set off at a brisk trot through the probably snake-ridden samphire towards the middle distance. The non-birdo Melbourne yuppie couple who'd joined us on the tour glanced at each other apprehensively. I was guessing the tour wasn't proving to be exactly what they'd thought.

A-birding we will go! Hunting the elusive Yellow Chat, via Broome Western Australia

Then I saw it. Over by the lagoon, a dark bird shape lurked on the shore! I pointed it out to Pilchard. And the yuppies. AND the GUN BIRDER! Who immediately trained a telescope in the general direction and invited me to step up and identify the bird. As if.

But I obligingly hoisted my camera out of the way and peered through the eye-piece, immediately diagnosing why the bird hadn't moved.

Because even when they're bird-shaped, pieces of driftwood rarely do.

At least the sudden and immediate loss of credibility left me free to take photos. And I DID see the elusive Yellow Chat – although YOU won't! Not here, anyway. They were too far away to get a good shot.

But who'd doubt a gun birder??

*Gun Birder = Birding expert

Low Tide at Roebuck Bay, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

2 The Massive Blush

Warning Sign, Roebuck Bay

Although one of the most significant migratory shore bird sites in the world, where thousands of waders – more than 300 species – congregate each year, it's still apparently OK to drive along the pristine shores of Roebuck Bay.

Because successfully negotiating the huge 9+ metre tide, treacherous rocks, mangroves and soft sand hazards would REALLY give those driving skills a workout, wouldn't it?!

Having to phone a friend to pull you out when you're bogged might be a little embarrassing.

The tide rolls in ...

But then who do you call when BOTH of you are hopelessly bogged and that massive tide's rolling in??

Tide's out!

However, the chances of a massive all-body blush on the skipper who had to explain why two vehicles were trapped in the bay below the Broome Bird Observatory to the insurance company were actually very low.

Because from all accounts there WAS no insurance …

3 The Fog

In north-west western Australia's Broome region, the Indigenous Yawuru people's season of Barrgana is characterised by day after punishing day of endless blue sky, daytime maximum temperatures between 28° and 31° C, coolish nights and no rain.

Foggy Morning, Broome Bird Observatory, Western Australia

That's why the smart travellers head to Broome during the Aussie winter from June to August.

Fog and Dew - isn't this the DRY season?

The smart birders head to the Broome Bird Observatory in August as the temperatures increase because that's when the migrating wading birds start to arrive.

A change dropping the temperature by a few degrees was a welcome respite from the mini-heatwave in the depths of the moistureless and arid dry season.

But who knew an early morning fog would momentarily change the landscape into a magical wonderland??

4 The Birds, the BIRDS!

After my embarrassing sighting of the rare driftwood bird (see #1 above), I spent the rest of our BBO stay with my mouth firmly – and uncharacteristically – shut. I and my small camera with the non-detachable lens were decidedly outclassed by the big lens birding brigade, so my photos from the Broome Bird Observatory show embarrassingly few actual birds.

Maybe my big bird photography lens envy was cramping my style.

Mostly Red-necked Avocet - Spot the ODD one out!!!

As I swung our borrowed 'scope (that's 'telescope' for you non-birders out there) along the length of 'Wader Bay', the morass of what I thought to be pebbles and rocks at the waters edge jumped into focus to as hundreds and thousands of birds!!

But despite the excitement of clocking up lifer after lifer (birds we'd never seen before) through the magical magnification of 'scope and bins (binoculars!) the huge mixed flocks moving ever closer with the tides remained resolutely rock-like in my photos.

And in league with Yellow Chat, many birds unaccountably failed to present in perfect photographic pose, best side conveniently facing my looming lens.

Colours of Roebuck Bay, Western Australia

Is it so wrong to prefer mediocre landscape photography to mediocre wildlife photography?

Birds spotted at Broome Bird Observatory!

5 And the Birders ...

Those who know me will undoubtedly assure you I'd never be so impolite as to point out the faults of others (and you can probably hear them laughing wherever you are right now ...).

NOT Birds - Mulla Mullas!!

NOT possessing the birding gene can work against one at the Broome Bird Observatory, but it isn't necessarily a character flaw! It's actually an advantage to budding anthropologists wishing to observe the ups and downs of daily life for participants in the extreme sport of bird-watching.

And causes endless amusement to those, who like me, have a fine sense of the ridiculous …

Of course it'd be rude to point out the birder's quirks, flaws and foibles.

So instead, I've listed a few observations to demonstrate the subtle differences between ME and the REAL birders:

Seeing a bird – ANY bird – in the distance isn't a signal to stop what I'm doing.
'Eating' and 'Birdwatching' are mutually exclusive activities. So are 'Conversing' and 'Birdwatching'.

Pindan Road to Broome Bird Observatory
I'm a recovering non-birder with a photographic fixation. Don't hate me because some of my photos don't have birds in them.
Call me crazy, but I've been known to select holiday destinations without knowing what birds I'll see there. And I collect brochures about attractions other than birding hotspots.
'Good Morning' means 'Good Morning'. NOT 'How many birds have you seen already today and what were they?'
I don't know how many birds are on my 'lifer' list. No, I don't want – or need – any help with that.

6 Is the Sea Blue? OR BROWN?!

Fresh from King Sound and the highest tides in the Southern Hemisphere, the school group from just up the coast in Derby descended on the Broome Bird Observatory viewing platform like a flock of rampaging emus.

Roebuck Bay at Low Tide, Western Australia

Any self-respecting bird would run a mile.

But the famous Roebuck Bay tranquillity slowly worked its magic. Well … that and a few well-chosen witticisms from the long-suffering teachers.

'Send me a postcard, mate,' one teacher called out over the hubbub to a young student indulging his not-so-secret passion for telescope wrangling.

'What, miss?' He turned, puzzled.

'Because if you keep that up, you'll be WALKING home to Derby,' she shot back at him.

Chastened, the group calmed and looked out over the famous blue, Blue, BLUE of the bay.

'Where's the mud, miss?' another student ventured.

This time I was puzzled. Until I recalled that not so far up the coast, the tidal movement of the 9^th biggest tide in the world moves tonnes of mud up and down King Sound.

Brown Tide rolling in at Derby, Western Australia

So for these students brought up on its shores, the sea is BROWN! Who says travel doesn't broaden the mind?!?!

Tawny Frogmouth, Broome Bird Observatory

But hiding in the twisted branches of a tree just a few metres away from the fractured peace of this rollicking school excursion, Tawny Frogmouth slept on, safe in his daytime disguise ...

A few kilometres north of Broome and run by Birdlife Australia, the Broome Bird Observatory is a rare opportunity to explore a different side of Australia. If you're not afraid to rub shoulders with birdos, the BBO offers accommodation, a camp-ground and tours to birding hotspots.

You don't have to be a twitcher (ie birdwatcher) to explore the stunning coastline, discover amazing wildlife and wildflowers, walk the trails through woodland habitats or relax around the evening campfire.

But if you DO get the chance to experience this staggeringly scenic hideaway, I bet you'll be back for more ...

Read MORE:

Roebuck Bay at Broome Bird Observatory, via Broome, Western Australia

Surviving Nature's Window – Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sat, 08 Jun 2013 00:37:00 +0000

Nature's Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

The sun wasn't that hot. The track wasn't that long. The going wasn't that tough.

And yet, all along the short walk to Nature's Window, people were dropping like flies.

Despite the detailed warning signs above the steep staircase accessing the track below the gorge rim, the walk to Kalbarri National Park's favourite attraction looks deceptively easy.

View from Nature's Window over Murchison River, Kalbarri National Park

Nature's Window is a mere 400 m (1312 ft) from the car park. AND hikers straggling along the track towards the knot of people on the ridge below are clearly visible from the trailhead. AND the light breeze above the rim keeps the temperature mild.

So who WOULDN'T assume they could knock this walk over in shoes more appropriate to, say, streetwalking?

Without water?? A hat??? Or a reasonable level of fitness????

From Nature's Window Ledge, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

Below the rim, the temperature in the gorge is much higher and the sun beats down mercilessly with no breeze to cool the air. It's hot. It's stuffy. And the return walk is relentlessly uphill all the way.

Just like the warning sign said.

But surviving Nature's Window is easy.

Wear real shoes.

Carry water.

Take your time.

And don't, under ANY circumstances, attempt the walk with a hangover!

Or use the countless spring wildflower photo opportunities as an excuse for multiple rest breaks ...

Kalbarri Sandstone

While awaiting our turn for the obligatory Nature's Window photo, the staggering view of the Murchison river far below, lazily curving around the rocky spur on which we stood was a momentary distraction from the bickering English honeymoon couple already in the fast lane to divorce.

And the backpacker with an impossibly complex camera that would have captured the amazing panorama superbly had he actually known how to use it.

And the bogan family from hell endlessly conversing about the sneakers they'd be buying when they got to Bali …

Undeterred by the above average probability our Window photos would bear an astonishing similarity to everyone else's, it was finally our turn to record our first Tumblagooda Sandstone experience despite the danger of cliché.

Spot Nature's Window carpark from the Loop Lookout! Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

A few kilometres away, the Loop Lookout put Nature's Window into perspective. And also showcased the aggressively scenic – with a far greater risk of heatstroke – 8 km (5 mile) Loop trail winding down to the river below and starting and ending at the Window car park.

Next visit we'll take the necessary precautions to walk the Loop trail! Leave early in the morning. Carry food and water. Wear appropriate clothing. Don't walk with hung over backpackers. And leave the stripper shoes at home ...

Another cliché shot of Nature's Window, Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia

But for now, we're content with surviving Nature's Window!

Read MORE:

Aussie ABC: N is for Nullarbor

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Tue, 04 Jun 2013 06:06:00 +0000

Love at First Bight ... 1st land-level view of the Great Australian Bight, Eucla, Western Australia

I was 4 – nearly 5! – the first time I crossed the Nullarbor. Xmas day, and we were on the Indian Pacific* heading for Adelaide. We'd spent Xmas eve in a pub somewhere in rough as guts Western Australian gold-mining town Kalgoorlie, but I don't remember that – maybe I blanked it out …

In September 2012, I made my second Nullarbor crossing, this time by car along the Eyre Highway. And while it was hot, dry and dusty with a killer sand-laden wind fresh from the furnaces of hell, I couldn't suppress the frisson of excitement that travelling this iconic landscape gave.

Nullarbor's Western Edge - Through the Windscreen ...

Because the Eyre Highway's 1660 km length**, crossing two monster states, three time zones and the world's largest limestone karst shelf covering 200,000 km² makes a Nullarbor crossing the ultimate Australian rite-of-passage road trip!

The Nullarbor is WAY more than just a long, dusty drive from A to B.

With unique Australian AND World Exclusives jostling for position amidst magnificent coastal scenery, remote roadhouses and the opportunity to be truly alone, who WOULDN'T want to experience the wonders of the treeless (Null = none; arbor = tree) plain?

BUT … if you're having trouble picturing how a Nullarbor crossing – perhaps the ultimate Australian travel adventure – is a good thing, here's 6 trip-teasers so you can see what you're missing!!

1 The Golf:

OK, you're on the Nullarbor on (arguably) Australia's greatest road trip and I'm talking GOLF??

Yes.

Even if – like me – you're NOT a golfer, you'll surely want to add a World Exclusive like World's LONGEST golf course to your repertoire, right??

Nullarbor Links stretches 1365 km (848 miles) over 18 holes from the 'CY O'Connor' and 'Golden Mile' holes in Kalgoorlie to 'Denial Bay' and 'Oyster Beds' at Ceduna with 14 other aptly named holes – think 'Skylab' at Balladonia, 'Nullarbor Nymph' at Eucla and 'Dingo's Den' at the Nullarbor Roadhouse – along the way. And you don't have to lug a whole lot of (to me) superfluous golfing gear around either! Hire clubs at each hole!!

Brumby's Run, Madura Pass Roadhouse, Nullarbor

MORE about Nullarbor Links!

2 The Bight:

Once across the border into South Australia, the highway skirts the Bunda cliffs with their white base of Wilson Bluff Limestone.

A dramatic edge to the Great Australian Bight – that 1160 km long mouthful shaped chunk that eats into Southern Australia – the impressive 200 km of unbroken cliffs is part of the longest sea-cliff line in the world.

The Bunda Cliffs and Bight, Eyre Highway, South Australia

From here, there's NOTHING between you and Antarctica except what we Aussies call the Great Southern Ocean. To the rest of you, it's just part of the Indian Ocean.

MORE about Great Australian Bight and Great Australian Bight Marine Park

3 The Whales and other Wildlife:

Between May and October each year, up to 60 Southern Right Whales migrate to this area to breed and calve. One of the best places to sight them is the northernmost tip of the curve of southern coastline, imaginatively called Head of Bight!

Whales at Head of Bight, South Australia

Get below the cliff line on the Great Australian Bight Marine Park's viewing platform that puts you as close to the whales as you can get without getting wet! But don't just drop in like we did – break your journey at the nearby Nullarbor Roadhouse so you can spend all the time you want whale watching.

If whales aren't your thing, birdwatch at the Eyre Bird Observatory – Nullarbor Quail-thrush is only found on the Nullarbor!

Failing that, foolishly driving from dusk onwards will virtually guarantee sightings of wildlife up REAL close ...

MORE about Head of Bight's Whale Watching AND Eyre Bird Observatory

Bunda Cliffs up close, South Australia

4 The Exclusives:

A Nullarbor road-trip really is the best way to appreciate Australia's size and scope as well as some experiences to be had nowhere else in Australia – or the World!

During the trip, experience the longest straight stretch of road in Australia!

Just how long IS 90-mile straight?? Of course … it's 91.1 miles or 146.6 km!!

And if you miss the bight and longest line of sea-cliffs in the world because you're travelling by train, make up for it by riding the longest straight stretch of railway line in the world – 478 km (297 miles).

90 Mile Straight, Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Under the world record breaking limestone karst, worn by the weathering of millenia, lies the world's longest cave system complete with rockholes and blowholes, including Koonalda Cave and Murrawijinie Caves near the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Eucla Signpost, Western Australia

At 2.5 million acres, Rawlinna station is the biggest sheep station in the world! Yes, that makes it bigger than quite a number of countries … although the dry sheep equivalent out here is pretty low!

Taking a photo of the big nothing emptiness isn't too difficult … on roads this long, there's not a lot of other traffic to get in the way!

5 The History:

Perhaps because of its isolation, harsh climate and unique features, the Nullarbor's fascinating history can be experienced along the way.

Several settlements and roadhouses are built around the Telegraph line, like Eucla, near the WA/SA border, once the busiest Telegraph Station outside the capital cities when it opened in 1877. Drowning in sand, the ruins can still be accessed by 4WD.

The Eyre Bird Observatory was once an historic Telegraph Station, itself on the site of a watering hole used by Edward John Eyre during his Nullarbor Crossing. Back on the highway, nearby Cocklebiddy was once an Aboriginal mission. Indigenous legend and history is further explored at the Head of Bight Interpretive Centre.

Storm Approaching, Madura Pass, Western Australia

If you can remember back to 1979, spare a thought for Skylab when you reach Balladonia – debris was found at Woorlba Sheep Station 40 km east. A Cultural Heritage Museum in the hotel complex also recreates the area's history including Aboriginal Dreaming legend and Afghan Cameleers.

Not so Scenic! Nullarbor Rest Stop ...

To cement YOUR place in history, pick up a Nullarbor Crossing Certificate from the Norseman Tourist Centre!!

6 The Nullarbor Nymph:

The story of a blonde white woman living among kangaroos on the Nullarbor Plain was first reported, perhaps unsurprisingly on the day after Xmas, 1971.

After some footage of a woman wearing kangaroo skins was released – did I mention she was half-naked?? – the small town of Eucla (then with a population of 8) on the Western Australian side of the border with South Australia, was swamped by journalists from around the world.

If you don't get to see the real thing ... make do with this! Eucla, Western Australia

Sadly, the Nullarbor Nymph was outed as a hoax in 1972, although perhaps she remains a subliminal fantasy for in the 'best' Aussie tradition, the story of the nymph has been immortalised in a (you'll not be surprised to hear low-budget) film.

The BIG Galah, Kimba, South Australia

Most – if not all – travellers won't get to see the nymph, so will have to content themselves with this Aussie BIG Thing at the Half-way Across Australia mark instead …

MORE about the Nullarbor Nymph AND more about the FILM and Kimba's BIG Galah!

* Famous Australian train running from Sydney to Perth ie between the Indian and Pacific oceans!!

** From Norseman, Western Australia to Port Augusta, South Australia – with the accepted limits of the Nullarbor Plain being the ~1200 km from Norseman to Ceduna. The actual distance from Perth to Adelaide is 2700 km.

Just between us, this is only the beginning ... there are WAAAAY more than 6 reasons to attempt a Nullarbor crossing! But I'll leave finding the rest up to you!!

Interested? Intrigued?? Incited??? THEN … Read MORE:

The Nullarbor Plain, South Australia and Western Australia
Travellers Guide to the Nullarbor

Last shop for 1000 km, Penong, South Australia

ALL the Aussie ABCs:

1000 Words About ... Corrugated Iron!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Fri, 31 May 2013 10:26:00 +0000

Corrugated Iron, Eurelia Railway Station Goods Shed, South Australia

While a penchant for neatness, order and logic most likely explains my affinity for corrugated iron, the unkind would probably attribute it to the inflexibility and pedanticism of a full-blown control freak!

Whatever it is, corrugated iron's neat rows and precise undulations with their resultant patterns of light and shade hold an artistic appeal that actually increases as the decay inevitable in Australia's harsh climate starts breaking it down.

Inside the Eurelia Railway Station Goods Shed

To me, anyway.

Tiny and nearly deserted railway siding Eurelia, in South Australia's mid-north just south of Carrieton is symptomatic of the decline and fall of the rural railway network once linking remote outposts and delivering mail and supplies across the country.

The decay of the unused structures at the station now rusting, falling apart and succumbing to dry rot echoes the decay of a rail system once the life-blood of rural Australia.

But the other side of decay is its unexpected beauty.

Eurelia Railway Station Goods Shed, South Australia

The fading paintwork on the corrugated iron of the Eurelia goods shed ruin, overlaid with the graffiti inevitable to a large, deserted and empty building is a stunning patchwork of colour, light and shade. And the crumbling cut-off 44 gallon drum is a prop I couldn't have bettered in a million years ...

Eurelia's inadvertent art installation owes much to the fine properties of corrugated iron in decay. And while it's unlikely the rail network will be resurrected in my lifetime – if ever – the clean-lined rusting beauty of its decay overlaid with fading colours and random signatures will just get better as the years roll on.

Eurelia Railway Station, South Australia

But maybe that's just my inner control-freak talking!

Read MORE:

For different takes on beauty in decay from around the world by the City Daily Photo community click HERE! (AFTER 4:00pm 1 June, Australian Eastern Standard Time)

Ride the Ragged Ranges: Arkaroola's RED-HOT Ridge-top Tour!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Mon, 27 May 2013 11:50:00 +0000

Coulthard Lookout View, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour, South Australia

'Now we'll see some REAL scenery!' Doug announced, herding us away from the spectacular outlook from Coulthard's Lookout towards our convoy of two vehicles.

I was sceptical.

The ragged mountain ranges (yes, I'm channelling Aussie poet Dorothea Mackellar*) glistened and glowed in a glorious 360° panorama in the perfection of a clear Outback day. I thought Doug was joking.

Split Rock Lookout with Freeling Heights in the Background, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour

He wasn't.

Our guide, commentator, driver AND Arkaroola's most wanted man (if the caption under the photo of his younger self in the dining room spoke the truth), Doug rocked the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary's ultimate 4WD adventure Ridge-Top Tour and elevated it from excellent to extraordinary.

Ridge-top Tour Road, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

If mining company Exoil hadn't followed up on the wartime uranium exploration in this area (with the only radioactive spring in the world!), and 'developed' this 'road' in the late 1960s, it's unlikely we'd have been jolting our way deep into the otherwise trackless wilderness through this more remote, wild and sensationally beautiful South Australian landscape.

Scarily, carving – and then USING – this rugged road from the edge of civilisation into the ragged mountain range wilderness was logical to someone.

Even more scary, once the uranium exploration was done it was logical to someone else to turn this rugged road into a tourist drive! Despite the $AUD40,000 it costs to restore the track after each of the 1-5 washouts it gets each year.

Is that a road? Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour

And scariest of all? $AUD120 gets you a berth on the 4WD bus.

Yes, tourists actually pay for the privilege of 4 hours of jolting in an open tray-top on this track with its near-vertical climbs and plunges across sheer rock seams interspersed with creek beds full of boulders, wheel ruts the size of irrigation drains and ridge-tops so exposed the strong gusts of wind could suck the unwary into oblivion.

Not the best choice of tour for acrophobics, back-seat drivers or vertigo-sufferers! And if wide-open spaces give you the heebie-jeebies? Maybe you're better off on an air-conditioned bus ...

As our vehicle shuddered over a particularly large rock, the seatbelt round my waist the only thing preventing an ungraceful slide into the tailgate - or beyond - my experimental photography technique – developed especially for this tour – was working surprisingly well, all things considered.

Driving through the Creek, Arkaroola Ridge-top Tou

But I wouldn't have taken that morning walk of several kilometres if I'd known just sitting in the back of the truck on THIS tour would give me a full body workout!

As an added bonus, being the odd ones out in our two-vehicle convoy with a 10-camper group who must have vowed never to be separated by more than 100 metres at any given time made each stop an fascinating anthropological experiment. But I didn't need the childish thrill that wandering into random strangers' group photos gave.

Travelling through the stunning scenery, varied land forms, unusual rock formations and unique vegetation in these wild mountains provided enough thrills for a lifetime. But following the track past the imposing Mt Painter, and Mt Gee – composed of quartz crystals – was gasp inducing on several levels. These aren't even particularly high mountains, even by Australian standards. Why bother building a road in lazy curves when perpendicular gets you there faster??

The ascent to Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, South Australia

After an ascent so steep I was starting to think we couldn't possibly return this way without dropping off the face of the earth, we reached the final climb to the ultimate pinnacle of the tour – Sillers Lookout. Named, as I should have guessed, for then-chairman of Exoil.

Ragged Mountain Ranges, Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Luckily, Doug could turn the vehicle on a dime because the 'space' on top of the lookout left no margin for error. High atop a rocky knoll overlooking the rugged grandeur of the Freeling Heights that drop suddenly and completely away to a vision splendid of sunlit plains extended (AB Paterson said it first and best**) WAY out across Yudnamutana Gorge to the vast salty expanse of Lake Frome, I leaned against the (thank god someone built one) fence feeling a little weak at the knees. Strangely not from the hair-raising ride, but from the vista of such awesome and utter FAAAAABULOUSNESS I was struck by the uncharacteristic feeling of being lost for words.

Superlatives, anyway.

The Freeling Heights from Sillers Lookout, Ridge-top Tour, Arkaroola

'Does the drive ever make you nervous?' I inanely asked the driver of the 2^nd vehicle – with 20 years experience of regularly making this drive twice a day – as we enjoyed an Aussie lamington for afternoon tea.

At Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

He looked at me with a strange mixture of confusion and pity that clearly indicated nervousness wasn't part of his psyche.

'Sometimes it's difficult when it's wet,' he conceded.

Wet? People drove on this road when it was WET????

Insane.

But, after establishing there was no alternative route back, I realised being scared witless was pointless.

Blasé was WAY better.

After a while, negotiating steep slopes, deep ruts, sheer rock surfaces and a road surface so uneven the pedantic would call it a paddock just became commonplace. Ho hum, another minute, another sheer wash-away. Or descent down a rock wall. Or major wheel-wrenching boulder slick ...

The descent from Sillers Lookout, Arkaroola, South Australia

So, the return trip became uneventful, unless you count the strong gust of wind that lifted Pilchard's hat giving us both a nasty Green Island flashback. Oops, it was happening again. But this time, the chin strap caught and held. Now all he had to worry about was whether saving the hat was worth being garrotted …

Minerals at Mt Gee, Arkaroola Ridge-Top Tour, South Australia

After calling in at Mt Gee to view a selection of minerals and an unscheduled stop to admire Yellow-footed Rock Wallaby, we arrived back at Arkaroola Village exhausted AND exhilarated by our extreme 4WD adventure.

South Australia is often overlooked as an Aussie tourist destination in favour of better known natural attractions like … well, YOU know.

Yellow-footed Rock Wallaby, Arkaroola, South Australia

But for the ultimate, jaw-dropping, unforgettable, super-sublime Aussie adventure? Trust me – and take the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary's Ridge-Top Tour***!

* Dorothea Mackellar's great Aussie love-poem My Country

** Andrew 'Banjo' Paterson's classic Aussie lament Clancy of the Overflow

*** Yes, I'm still struggling with appropriate superlatives. No, they're not paying me. More's the pity. But if they did, I'd trade it in for another go at the tour. Yes, it really IS that good!

Read AND See MORE:

See it LIVE on YouTube ---> Final ascent to Sillers Lookout
Arkaroola Ridge-top Tour
Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary
Arkaroola Dreaming – my Flickr photographic fantasy

The Death-Trap Dam Wall Dunny – Australian Scenic Loo #35, Blowering Dam

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:35:00 +0000

Blowering Dam Scenic Public Toilet - the RED circle marks the spot! Via Tumut, New South Wales

The chances of the overly excitable, the imaginative and the paranoid of finding their Blowering Dam Wall public amenities experience more than a little stressful are better than average.

View from the Blowering Dam loo, via Tumut, New South Wales

While answering nature's call in this relief station's unusually picturesque setting amidst the heavily wooded Tumut River Valley is a positive pleasure, its placement is a potential death trap.

And while considering the possible perils would probably only occur to the excitable and/or imaginative and/or paranoid, that doesn't make them any less real.

Because behind the 114 m (374 ft) high dam wall towering above the amenities and stretching for 747 metres (2450ft) is holding back 1.6 MILLION megalitres (sorry, Imperial measurement countries, you're on your own with this one) of water! When it's full, that is.

And this little loo in the picnic area below the dam wall is right in the firing line!!

Blowering Dam on the Tumut River 13 km upstream from the small town of Tumut in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains in the New South Wales Riverina Highlands isn't Australia's biggest lake, nor is it a natural one. Completed in 1968, it's not even the biggest lake in the Snowy Mountains Scheme for irrigation and hydro-electricity of which it is a part.

Blowering Dam from Dam Wall, via Tumut, New South Wales

But the staggering view from atop the dam wall is a fitting place for the successful World Water Speed Record attempt on 8 October 1978.

Although it's doubtful that still current world record-holder Ken Warby was taking in the view while travelling at 511 kph (317.6 mph) in his boat 'Spirit of Australia' … there's an 85% chance of a fatality amongst those who have attempted this feat!

See that white speck? Yep, that's a camper ... Blowering Dam, New South Wales

Nowadays, there's plenty of room for camping, fishing and water sports around the edge of the dam's 44.6 km2 surface area. As we saw on our March 2012 weekend visit. But the picnic area below the dam remained strangely devoid of visitors … did the locals know something WE didn't know??

While the odds of a dam wall failure delivering a 1.6 million megalitre Royal Flush instead of the 12 litres usually required for loos of this vintage are pretty long, low risk isn't quite the same as NO risk, is it?!

This local was sitting tight in the Blowering Dam loo ...

Not to the neurotic, anyway!!

Or is that just me?

Read MORE:

The Bizarre Back-of-Beyond Bakery – Farina, South Australia

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sun, 19 May 2013 09:56:00 +0000

Is that a Bakery I see before me? Farina, Outback South Australia

The sign shimmered through the haze of dust and heat like a mirage. Or the product of too much wishful thinking. Or the BEST kind of fantasy ...

Old bottles, Farina Ruins, South Australia

Whichever it was, the Bakery Baking Today sign at the Farina turn-off in the middle of the South Australian Outback just HAD to be too good to be true.

Because over 600km (370+ miles) north of Adelaide, the last stretch of continuous bitumen for several hundred kilometres had receded into the middle distance behind us to the south.

We'd already passed the beginning of the tyre-shredding Strzelecki track, a notorious stretch of dirt through the Strzelecki desert connecting tiny Lyndhurst with Innamincka, 469 km (291 miles) to the north east.

The Underground Bakery, the Marquee and a random ruined fireplace! Farina, South Australia

And now, we were travelling north towards Marree, a remote outpost at the southern edge of the Lake Eyre basin and home of legendary Outback mailman Tom Kruse. Yes, that's his real name.

Farina Bakery Marquee from General Store Ruins, Farina, South Australia

From Marree, the only way out was either east along the Oodnadatta track, a 607 km (377 miles) dirt track through the remote Outback that joined the Stuart Highway at Marla; or the fabled Birdsville track to – you guessed it – Birdsville, 519 km (322 miles) further north.

Yes, we were on the outskirts of Australia's Boys Own Adventureland – a 4WD and/or motorcyclists' heaven traversed by groups of three (WHY ALWAYS THREE???) blokes – and we would, for the first time, visit the start of each of these iconic tracks in one day.

Now, en route to Marree, Farina was a ghost town full of ruins.

Wasn't it??

The white marquee rising incongruously above the partially restored stonework of the Farina ruins in the distance suggested otherwise.

Bron and Syd, Farina Bakery Volunteers, Farina

As did the banner indicating South Aussie icon Laucke Flour's personal interest in this little bakery in the middle of nowhere.

Clearly, further investigation was required, so I turned to Pilchard – but the car had already swerved towards the turn-off. No bakery-seeking-sensor required in THIS car!!

As we drew closer to the knot of vehicles gathered around the cluster of old buildings surrounding the marquee, the smell of freshly baking bread gave the game away.

Yes, there really WAS a fully functional bakery in this remote ruin. And judging by the roaring trade being done with the constant arrival of incredulous visitors from both north and south, a Back-of-Beyond Bakery was just what the doctor ordered.

Martin, Farina Bakery Baker extraordinaire!

In a masterstroke so civilised it should be made mandatory, the underground Bakery was the first building to be restored to full working order by the Farina Restoration Group Inc (FRG).

Ironic, given that Farina is, of course, the Latin word for flour. And the town was so named in expectation of it becoming the 'Granary of the North'. Sadly, the unpredictable climate, remote location and lack of water ultimately meant its decline, despite its one-time position as the railway head for all northern lines.

But in one of those undeniably symmetric coincidences, Farina is finally living up to its name, with the Bakery now a focus for fund-raising, publicity and – of course – a completely unexpected opportunity for an excellent Back-of-Beyond Bakery pig-out.

Bakery Props, Farina, South Australia

This was one of those times that sacrificing myself for the sake of my blog became not just a duty, but a pleasure*!

Bron and Syd, volunteers from FRG that keeps the Bakery operational for 6 weeks in May and June, expertly fielded queries, served customers and – in my case – mopped up the coffee I overturned in the excitement of finding this bizarre bakery.

All while posing for photos!

The FRG, now about 5 years old, was founded by Tom Harding who with current station owners Kevin and Anne Dawes, saw Farina's potential as an historic site and set about restoring it as a tourist attraction.

Apart from partnerships with various organisations and professional stonemasonry, all work is done by volunteers.

Those who are planning a similar venture should not underestimate the effectiveness of the Bakery drawcard … word of mouth is already working its magic as winter's onset signals the start of the Outback Adventure season and all sensible travellers head north for warmth.

Farina Campground, Outback South Australia

Of course it helps that Farina station has also set up an excellent campground with barbecues, fire pits, toilets and hot showers, all for $5 per person per night. It's an excellent staging post en route to the rough stuff of the tracks further north. But it's an attraction in its own right with walks along the river and no-longer-used railway tracks, and story boards detailing the history of the town's rise, fall and restoration.

Farina Railway Bridge - part of the old Ghan Railway, South Australia

The Group's volunteers stay on site in the campground for the annual restoration activities in May and June – some are reportedly the bakery's best customers – and work on a roster system to ensure the bakery stays open.
I almost joined up on the spot!

Bron with the Goods, Farina Bakery

Of course it also helps that the Bakery goods are absolutely top shelf – the old Scotch oven in the underground kitchen turns out an astonishing array of sweet, savoury and plain bread rolls, sausage rolls, individual and family sized pasties.

Martin, the baker du jour, dexterously whipped trays of superbly baked goods out of the oven while telling us he'd co-opted a few of his baker buddies to volunteer for a stint at Farina.

'Well, they USED to be my friends,' he laughed, while proving – at least to MY satisfaction – that 80 years of disuse didn't seem to have affected the oven's effectiveness.

Its underground location probably also helped to preserve it – one of the many storyboards produced by the FRG and dotted around the ruins mentions the destruction of outside dunnies in violent storms … which means no Scenic Public Toilet pic from the Farina ruins.

But I digress ...

A Portal to Paradise? About to descend into the Farina Bakery depths ...

After a particularly dry summer and autumn, driving to and from Farina across the arid lands of the South Australian Outback – driest part of the driest state in the driest continent on earth – there's no mistaking the hardships faced by the early settlers in towns like Farina where today's green and fertile pastoral country could be tomorrow's dust bowl.

But the FRG's hardy bunch of volunteers are putting Farina back on the map by offering their unique Bakery at the Back-of-Beyond experience!

And that puts it well and truly on the map for THIS Aussie traveller!

Read MORE:

* Oscar Wilde said it first, and best

Weird Stuff #9 - Magnetic Hill, South Australia

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Tue, 14 May 2013 10:42:00 +0000

The Magnetic Hill Magnet, via Orroroo, South Australia

Discovering the Daleks of Khancoban in a remote Snowy Mountains hideaway was, I thought, the pinnacle of my paranormal participation in the world of real-life Australian sci-fi.

But that was before South Australia's Magnetic Hill struck back.

Pushing for a place in the paranormal pantheon, and surrounded by this mid-North peaceful pastoral panorama, the sign promised a strange and bizarre extrasensory experience.

Magnetic Hill sign

And raised a few questions ...

Like would we be able to stop the Magnetic Hill tractor beam from sucking the car off the face of the earth and into some interplanetary vortex?

Or at the very least, off the edge of the hill??

Which way would a hip-replacement recipient roll???

And … perhaps most importantly – what WAS our car really made of????

Ready to ROLL, Magnetic Hill, South Australia

Putting aside the real possibility of being beamed into another dimension, we followed the instructions carefully.

In the interests of full disclosure I offer the following disclaimers:

Pilchard SWEARS he didn't touch any of the car controls
The angle of the shot doesn't fully capture the slight incline behind the car
Out of the force field the car behaved quite differently
The tremor visible on the footage is caused by either the magnetic force field OR the excitement of this extraordinary experiment ...
The resulting video quality may mean some features of this exciting moment have been lost forever ...

Just between us - my first thought was that the car must really be made of plastic ...

SO ... is Magnetic Hill an elaborate prank? Or a real touch of the Paranormal?? Or is the explanation a little more prosaic??? YOU decide!!

Read MORE:

RED Alert #9: RED turns to BLUE in Geneva!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Fri, 10 May 2013 11:58:00 +0000

Kath and Sapphire ... in Spain, so they can't be goofing off, right? RIGHT???

I first 'met' my RED Alert guest KATH through her blog Gone Chocco, now sadly inactive BUT required and compelling reading for anyone with more than a passing interest in the wonderful world of chocolate. Of course this led me to her non-food-related blog, Blurb from the Burbs, which with a enviably cunning and deft sleight of hand was reborn as Goofing off in Geneva when she, husband Love Chunks and daughter Sapphire moved to … well, yes, I'm sure you get the picture.

Of course I 'followed' her halfway across the world to see what happened. And when Kath commented that I'd made her cry on a blog post about South Australia's Yorke Peninsula (I hope due to homesickness, rather than poor photo quality) she became one of my muses. Not that I deliberately try to make her cry.

But I DO sometimes think of Kath when I'm choosing photos …

RED: Kath, welcome to RED Alert. What's your favourite colour?
KATH: BLUE!

RED: Thank you! That concludes today's interview!!! Only kidding … I guess we can take a break from RED if you want, so selected this one especially for you …

Port Clinton Public Amenities Block, Yorke Peninsula

RED: Although I'm sure you'll agree the touch of RED sets it off superbly! As do the roses in your pic of Sapphire's FAB BLUE fingernails! Do you find it disturbing that she MAY be moving away from RED?

No WAY is this Goofing off in Geneva!!!

KATH: She’s always been a green and blue girl and her bedroom (which is very tastefully done) is testament to this. Perhaps red clashes with her blue eyes...? Plus, what teenager wants to wear a colour that her MOTHER favours?

RED: Hahaha … and yet your favourite colour is … what was that again?? Maybe BLUE is the new RED! Or maybe combining them is the fashion statement of the twenty-teens?? Why ISN'T RED your favourite colour?
KATH: RED always seemed too bright and commanding and, being so white, it always highlighted any time I blushed or felt hot or had a new pimple forming on my fluorescent face....

Fashion Accessory? Or Going CHOCCO?!?! YOU decide!!

RED: So it's logical that you'd choose Easter Eggs as a fashion accessory! Would you recommend them?
KATH: Yes, but only in cool climes. As someone who once ‘forgot’ that she had a bag of mini eggs in her pocket, it only ends in tears and a poo-brown coloured crotch that’s impossible to explain.

RED: Hahaha, I bet LOTS of other people found an explanation! What made you choose Cadbury Creme Eggs as your alternative eyes?
KATH: They’re rarer than chicken lips over here and were bought during Sapphire’s and my weekend jaunt to Edinburgh back in February.

RED: (Note to readers: make a KILLING in Europe with black-market Cadbury Creme Eggs) Is it any coincidence there's a Nestle poster in the background?
KATH: None whatsoever. Sapphire found an advert from my birth month and year (November 1968) (RED: Surely not!) featuring Swiss-made Nestle, bought it on e-Bay and had it framed.

RED: If you can narrow it down, what are your 3 favourite RED chocolates??
KATH: Kit Kat – who doesn’t want to eat one of those when they clap eyes on the wrapper? Foil-wrapped cherry liqueurs. Possibly an embarrassing relic from the 1970s, but I love ‘em.
RED: Me too!
KATH: Lindt Lindor in all its sizes, forms and boxes. Melt in the mouth heaven.

RED: And what's the best RED thing to eat or drink in the cold?
KATH: Vin Chaud (hot, spiced red wine). The perfect drink after skiing, especially if seated in an outdoor cafe with your puffy jacket and pants still on.

A hard day on the ski slopes doesn't count as GOOFING, does it?!

RED: Now that you've got us all salivating, did you buy Love Chunk's FINE RED jacket??
KATH: I did indeed – it’s a good colour to stand out in on a white ski field and I bought it second-hand for only 25 francs, a saving of 375 francs!

Killer RED Watch!!

RED: Bargain! Do you wear a lot of RED?
KATH: I never used to, but since Love Chunks brought me back a bright red Casio watch (RED : I'm SO jealous!) during his work trip to the US last year, it’s become an excuse to move from striped everything or black. I now have two pairs of red shoes, several red t-shirts, a spotted red handbag, a red jacket and several scarves.

RED: Before you know it, you'll be breaking out into RED all over! Does he appreciate your RED fashion sense?
KATH: Bless him; he wouldn’t notice if my face was on fire most of the time! I’ve had my hair coloured, make up on, new top and he’ll just say, ‘why have you got lipstick on, I can’t kiss you now.’

RED: For how long did Love Chunks hold that teapot pose?

I'm a little ... Love Chunk!

KATH: Not very long – he detests having his picture taken.

RED: For how long could YOU hold it?
KATH: I’d be able to do it for ages but usually wind up face first in the snow or shut my eyes at the exact second he presses the button.

RED: Hahaha! Maybe that's a better alternative to photographic 'Red-Eye'?! Is RED a factor in your relationship??
KATH: Yes. We selected the previous house and current apartment’s RED accessories together, he bought me a RED running watch and makes me laugh until I’m RED in the face.

RED: What else makes your face RED without fail?
KATH: Laughing loudly. Being embarrassed – we natural blondies have a hard time disguising blushes!And running. Even several hours later after cooling down and showering, I glow.

RED: Glowing is SO Australian! Is Australia the REDdest country you've been to?
KATH: Nothing beats the dirt of Central Australia or seeing The Rock at sunset.

RED Glow from Running!

RED: Where are your favourite REDs downunder?
KATH: Port Douglas (Queensland) – RED sunset and often RED , sunburned skin; Adelaide (South Australia) – the RED brick of Beehive corner, RED roses in Eastern suburbs (where we used to live), the red stripe in the Crows’ uniforms, big red wines; Melbourne (Victoria) – the big ‘RED comb’ on the City Link tunnel (because we lived very near it in Flemington); and Victor Harbor (South Australia) – the REDish pink flowers in my parents’ garden!

RED: That's a GREAT cross-section! Just goes to show you can find RED everywhere … Have you visited many European countries since moving to Geneva?
KATH: England, Scotland, France, Spain, Luxembourg, Austria and Germany!

RED: In terms of distance, I guess that's like saying you've visited all the states in Australia! Which was the best?
KATH: Seeing my two most favourite people in the world see (and love) London for the first time and other times since.

RED: And the worst?
KATH: Marseille, France. Ugly, dodgy and very unwelcoming. A frightening place to take my parents to.

RED: Remind me not to go there … who is praying in Spain?
KATH: My goodly self. We were in the 11th Century Moorish gardens in Ronda, in the underground tunnels carved out of the cliff rock overlooking the river. The beam of sunlight beckoned me over and I couldn’t help but sing a ‘La la laaaaaa’ as Sapphire quickly snapped the moment with her iphone.

Kath in Spain

RED: Silly me. I was thinking it was something serious. But speaking of serious, what made you start blogging?
KATH: In 2005 I was at home recovering from a complete mental and physical breakdown after working far too hard, for too long for people who didn’t care what was happening to me. A friend started one up and I realised that it might be a good thing for me, too. The first entries are appallingly bad – as are a lot after that – but somehow I got into the groove of it and felt that I might have something to say that could entertain or inform or just make people feel better about themselves and their own stupidities and failings.

RED: Well, take it from me you've succeeded. What keeps you blogging??
KATH: A good question... It's a way of keeping friends and family up to date without the need to sit down every week and write a ‘Dear All.....’ email. I’ve also made some really good friends (some I’ve met in person, others I haven’t) whose feedback and opinions mean a great deal to me. Plus, my brain and fingers get itchy and an idea strikes at the strangest of times and tells me that it needs to be blogged about. I think too that when you become a regular blogger your writer’s ‘eye’ becomes sharper, noticing conversations or trends or events that should not be forgotten. All that and the need to look like I’m busy when really I’m on Cute Overload, D-Listed and better blogs than mine!

RED: Who inspires you to blog?
KATH: EVERY BLOG that I follow. Which reminds me, I need to update my ‘Links I like to lurk at’ column on the right hand side of my blog.

RED: I'll be checking that right after I hit 'publish'! What are your 3 blogging pet hates?
KATH: People who, despite you visiting their blog and regularly commenting, never repay the favour. Articles that are advertising. Keep it separate, people! And too many films, GIFs and dooflanger widgets that take ages to download and usually crash.

Milly at Bath Time - she'd rather be goofing off ...

RED: (Note to self: DON'T do these things ANY MORE!). Along with many other readers of your blog, I love hearing about your dog Milly's adventures in Geneva. How would you describe her colour?
KATH: Technically she’s a white and tan Jack Russell/Corgi mix (we call her a ‘Jorgi’) but in the sunshine she’s orange, so I often refer to her as my little orange.

RED: That's RED enough for me!! How did she get her name?
KATH: She was at the dog shelter at six months old, handed in because the old lady had died and her husband clearly wasn’t fond of her. They had apparently called her ‘Caro’ (presumably due to her caramel colouring), which we hated. Driving back home with new ‘little orange’ in the back of the station wagon, tail wagging eagerly but making no sound, Love Chunks said, “I think she’s a Milly.”

RED: How does Milly react to RED?
KATH: It’s all around her. Her bed is red, her blanket is red, the rug in the lounge room that she likes to sun herself on is red, her bath time towels are red. I guess it means ‘home.’

Rhapsody in RED

RED: HHHMMMmmm... Are you SURE you don't want to re-think that favourite colour? Do you have any final RED words of wisdom for our readers?
KATH: Hopefully one day, a RED carpet will be laid out for all of us!

RED: It's what I live for! And I hope my readers follow the RED carpet right over to your blog Goofing off in Geneva!!

Read MORE RED Alert Interviews (take it as read that they've all got an exclamation mark after the title ...):

#9 Kath (Blog): Goofing off in Geneva
#8 Iris: A Double Half of RED
#7 LadyFi: RED Glory in Sweden
#6 Terri: Terri Rocks RED ROCKS
#5 Christopher: I Must be Off in the RED Zone
#4 Diane: Adventure Before Dementia goes WEST
#3 Riet: Red and REDDER in the Netherlands
#2 Annabel: Get in the Hot Spot sees RED
#1 Jim: Holes in my Soles goes to Africa!

Life on the Edge ... Carrieton, South Australia

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sun, 05 May 2013 09:33:00 +0000

Horseshoe Range from Carrieton, South Australia

Live on the edge from just ten bucks a night.

That's all it costs for a powered site at Carrieton's Horseshoe View Caravan Park with the Stay-2-nights-Get-2-nights-FREE deal*.

Horseshoe View Caravan Park Campsite - on the edge in Carrieton

And that's a small price to pay for a chance to explore Carrieton, perched on the edge of the vast expanse of the Minburra Plain stretching east with virtually nothing civilised to stop it until it hits the Barrier highway en route to Broken Hill.

That doesn't really count as civilisation either!

Three hours north of Adelaide on the alternative route to the Flinders Ranges, Carrieton is a hidden jewel in South Australia's mid-north that's often ignored in favour of the big ticket items further north.

But bypass Carrieton and you'll miss some of the least well known, but most intriguing and delightful Outback scenery in South Australia!

It's no hardship to stay for 4 nights – necessary to get the full benefit of the Horseshoe View's special deal. The superbly set up AND quiet little caravan park off the main road in the old school grounds the community purchased when the school was closed a few years ago has everything.

Anglican Church, Carrieton, South Australia

And if you aren't a camper, you'll LOVE how the locals have converted the old school buildings into cottage and bunkhouse style accomodation …

The locals are used to living on the edge. Yanyarrie Whim on the outskirts of town is all that remains of the watering point on the 1800s North/South Stock Route and mining trail responsible for putting Carrieton on the map.

Carrieton Rodeo and Campdraft Posters

Partly responsible for keeping Carrieton on the map these days are the annual December night Rodeo – one of the largest in South Australia – and April/May Campdraft & Gymkhana.

On the wrong side of the Goyder Line, surveyed in 1865 to determine the boundary of cropping land, the district's low and inconsistent rainfall drove many from the land leaving only a legacy of stone ruins behind.

Later when the Prince Alfred mine closed in 1907, then the railway in 1981, followed more recently by the school, Carrieton faced an uncertain future.

Johnburgh Ruin, via Carrieton

But also taking responsiblity for keeping it on the map is a determined and forward-looking progress association who refuse to let the town die.

Community owned and run, the caravan park is just one innovation to keep the town afloat. The excellent and well stocked general store – also a community initiative – means visitors don't have to leave town to purchase fuel or food.

But the REAL reason to base yourself on the edge in Carrieton is to explore this amazing part of South Australia that many Aussies haven't even heard of, let alone seen!

A selection of sightseeing options will make up several day trips – and don't forget to factor in some time to relax in the beautifully kept school grounds, and chat to the friendly locals.

So here's one version of how to spend 4 days on the edge in Carrieton:

Day 1: Eat and Explore

Drive 44 km north to the Cradock Hotel for lunch. Sightings of the ghost of former publican 'Lawrence' aren't guaranteed, but you WILL get a great meal served up with country hospitality!

Catholic Church, Carrieton

When you return, explore Carrieton's attractions like Yanyarrie Whim and the excellent 12 metre Mosaic Mural depicting the town's history on the Public Toilets (!). Ask for directions to the creek behind the caravan park and walk up the creek bed where massive river redgums and high red cliffs tower above you.

Sunset at Carrieton Creekbed, South Australia

Then set up a date with the sunset over the Horseshoe Range ...

Day 2: Ruins and Redgums

Oladdie Road, via Carrieton, South Australia

Take a picnic lunch and drive 20 km west on the Oladdie road to Johnburgh. The superb mountain scenery includes farmland, many ruins and unusual rock formations.

After looking around almost-ghost-town Johnburgh, take the Belton turnoff and follow the marvellous Bendleby Ranges to the Weira Creek crossing.

River Redgum Random, Weira Creek via Carrieton

The massive River Redgums are locally known as 'widowmakers' because a branch big enough to crush a house can fall without warning …

After lunch, return to Carrieton via the Belton road – and watch for the clouds of pink dust billowing behind you on this oddly coloured road surface.

Rhapsody in Pink: Bendleby Ranges from the Belton Road, via Carrieton, South Australia

Oh! And the scenery's not bad either ...

Day 3: Lookouts and Landscapes

Magnetic Hill Sign, via Orroroo, South Australia

Drive 35 km south to Orroroo then further south via Pekina (check out the Pub and Coffee shop!); to Magnetic Hill, an intriguing natural phenomenon.

Return via Black Rock and take a detour to the Black Rock Lookout for superb views across the valley to the Pekina Range.

In Orroroo, the Tank Hill Lookout has superb views to the north and a superb cafe in the main street. Then check out South Australia's largest River Redgum, the old Railway Bridge and the historic buildings in town.

On the way back to Carrieton, stop at Walloway, site of a nasty train crash in the early 1900s then the Eurelia railway siding for a sample of the area's history.

Black Rock Magic, South Australia's Mid North

For a total heritage experience, take a detour and return via the historic town of Hammond.

Day 4: Ranges and Rocks

Take another picnic lunch and drive 28 km west through the superb countryside of the rocky Horseshoe Range towards Moockra Tower. When the road gives out, hike to the Tower for splendid views over the Range and Willochra Plain to the west.

Ranges behind Carrieton from Belton Road, South Australia

Back in Carrieton, after testing out the golf course circumnavigating the town, make another date with that sunset ...

Old seeder at Yanyarrie Whim, Carrieton, SA

And thank me – along with the locals!! – for introducing you to this little-known wonderland. It won't take much to make Carrieton part of your South Australian Flinders Ranges, Mid-North or Outback experience.

Although my stay in Carrieton undoubtedly assisted the local community in a small way, it didn't take long to realise the locals were doing ME a favour by making it easy for me to stay and enjoy life on the edge!

* Subject to availability; 10% Seniors Discount also available

Carrieton Sunset

Read MORE:

Code RED, Competition and the Creative Artisan – Bendigo, Victoria!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Wed, 01 May 2013 10:51:00 +0000

Through the Conservatory Window ... Fight Scene Statue in Rosalind Park, Bendigo, Victoria

Playing the tourist on a 3 day Bendigo bender re-awakened my latent gold-mining tendencies, suppressed for too long following a ~~total lack of~~ disappointing result in the creek running through our property.

But the Bendigo region's got the golden goods! The world's biggest alluvial gold nugget – the Welcome Stranger – was found nearby. With a 71+ kg (3123 oz) record to beat, the stakes AND incentives are high!

So while strolling through the excellent Bendigo CBD's Rosalind Park, finding a hunk of melodramatic marble (albeit beautifully sculpted) instead of a large gold nugget was somewhat anticlimactic. Apparently a previous mayor thought a statue of a thinly clad youth fighting off two wild creatures yet to be found in the Aussie bush would make a fitting reward for the citizens of Bendigo.

Fight Scene Statue Detail, Bendigo, Victoria

Although the marble monolith was superbly disguised as a gift, I for one would have preferred a more practical present – like a share of the gold revenue, or a complimentary gold nugget! Or even a selection of the wonderfully artistic and creative Journey Jottings products I spotted in Bendigo's Visitor Information Centre.

And as if she'd read my mind, my favourite Creative Artisan, the FAAAAABULOUS Linda, owner and creator of Journey Jottings Map Journals and Accessories donated a prize pack of her all-Aussie products for one lucky reader to win!!

Journey Jottings Product PRIZE Pack! See below for entry details ...

All because Bendigo is just one of SIX Aussie HOT Spots featuring in my most recent guest post on Linda's Blog (yes folks, she's a sucker for punishment ...).

SO … to be in the running to win 2 Notebooks (pix below), a Puzzle Postcard and a Sydney Map Magnet, all you have to do is:

Australia Notebook Detail

Read my guest post on Linda's Blog HERE; and
Return back here to THIS post on MY blog; and
Leave a comment telling me a) which of the 6 destinations you'd most like to visit AND b) why you'd like to win!

The entry that makes me laugh the most will win – from anywhere in the world!!

You have until midnight, Wednesday, 8th May (Australian Eastern Standard Time).

South East OZ Notebook Detail

All I need to do now is disguise my Google details so I can win it for myself …

But that would be wrong ...

Because there can be only ONE winner, Linda is offering a special deal for the month of May EXCLUSIVE to Amazing Australian Adventures readers!

Order any Journey Jottings product in May from http://journeyjottings.com/ AND add 'Code Red' to the order comments AND receive another one FREE! Order 2 Notebooks, for example, and get 4! Order 3 Maps - and get 6!

Treat yourself - AND solve all your Birthday & Christmas gift dilemmas at the same time!!

So be a winner either way with Journey Jottings and Amazing Australian Adventures!

The Creative Artisan comes in many guises … for more takes on this theme from around the world, visit the City Daily Photo Theme Day Meme!

Unnatural Attractions: The Super Pit, Kalgoorlie-Boulder, Western Australia

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 09:30:00 +0000

Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mine Super Pit, Western Australia

So what creative uses are there for a whacking great hole in the ground?

A hole 3.8 km long, 1.5 km wide and 600 metres deep that can make a 680 tonne shovel look like a kitchen utensil?? Or a 166 tonne truck like a Matchbox toy???

A hole so large it's colloquially known as the Super Pit?

Red meets Shovel at the Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

That's the question the Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mine (KCGM) needs to answer in approximately 8 years time when the Golden Mile Dolorite Seam runs dry. Post-mining regulatory obligations are quite specific about mining infrastructure, pit sides and site rehabilitation.

And it'd be pretty hard to just bulldoze it over and hope for the best ...

In the meantime, the twin towns of Kalgoorlie-Boulder never sleep.

And not just because of the perfectly natural attractions of the Questa Casa, Australia's oldest working brothel, either.

The thrum, clatter and vibration of fortunes being made is a continual counterpoint to all other activity 24/7, 365 days per year.

Because here in Kalgoorlie-Boulder, perched right on the edge of the massive KCGM Super Pit, the gold rush that started when Paddy Hannan first discovered gold in 1893 never stopped.

A Truck at the Super Pit, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

And the Golden Mile on which it sits is the richest square mile of gold-bearing earth on the planet.

Although none of the extensive mining activity that's continued unabated ever since would have been possible without the vision of Irish engineer Charles Yelverton O'Connor who defied critics to plan and construct the world's (then) longest freshwater pipeline over the 530 km (330 miles) from Mundaring Weir near Perth to Mt Charlotte Reservoir at the Goldfields.

Mt Charlotte Reservoir, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Eight years in the making, The Goldfields Water Supply Scheme still supplies water to the goldfields. It's also still the world's longest steel pipeline and in 2009 was recognised as international historic civil engineering landmark, along with the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Snowy Mountains Scheme.

Kalgoorlie Clock Tower, Western Australia

Mining giant KCGM has a lot for which to thank O'Connor, who tragically took his own life during a public campaign of press vilification, including accusations of corruption and incompetence before the scheme was completed and his genius realised.

In the bad old days, a clutch of smaller companies and individual holdings jockeyed for position and battled for survival along the Golden Mile. Then – depending on ones point of view – visionary entrepreneur/environmental vandal Alan Bond started buying up the leases with a view to merging into one big company – and one giant pit. Economies of scale, and increasing size of operation mean greater profits all round.

But just how worthwhile is this consolidated venture? According to signage at the Super Pit lookout, 1600 tonnes of material is processed each hour – containing gold valued at around $AUD70,000. All up, around 800,000 ounces of gold per annum are taken from the Super Pit and neighbouring mine, Mt Charlotte.

SO worth it, that maybe I'll become a 'Void Engineer' after all …

I'll never understand why this wasn't presented as a valid career path in High School careers class – its appeal as a passport occupation conversation starting point is FAR greater than 'nurse' or 'teacher'. I guess those same folks who many years later failed to predict the Global Financial Crisis were cutting their teeth by not being able to predict a future mining boom at that point ...

It's a LONG way down ... Super Pit, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

From the vantage point of the lookout, it's hard to believe the trucks crawling like ants way WAAAAAY down in the depths of the Pit are HUGE machines worth $AUD4 Million.

Or that the shovels loading each truck with the 4 scoops of high grade ore it takes to fill it weigh 680 tonnes, hold 55 tonnes (and 36 m³) and cost $AUD10+ Million!

Or that each load of this high-grade ore averages gold worth over $10,000.

But on this clear and sunny Outback winter day in August 2012, we only care about the Pyrotechnic Demolition Explosion Choreographer! Although such people are far more likely lumbered with dull, meaningless titles like Blast Engineer ...

As speculation ran hot over the day's exact blast location in the public viewing area overlooking the Super Pit, I could have run a book if I'd had even a little of Bond's entrepreneurial spirit.

Blasting at the Super Pit, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

The Visitor Information Centre in Kalgoorlie's main street is advised of Super Pit blast times, and visitors are welcome to take the rocky road to the caged-in viewing area. It's a fine view even without the blasting, no matter what the closet pyromaniacs tell you.

Over an hour after the advised blasting time, the countdown started and cameras poised, ready to capture the moment.

It took us awhile to realise the dust and smoke at the top of the Pit was actually the explosion, with Pilchard and several small children devastated the whole cliff face didn't fall away.

But, we'd seen a real, live Super Pit explosion!

Blasting at the Super Pit, Kalgoorlie

Returning to our campsite seemed a bit anti climactic after that. Strangely, I was finding it quite easy to resist the excitement of purchasing a Black Caviar poster from our campground neighbour. Given that Black Caviar is a horse – albeit the greatest racehorse in living memory – who signed the poster?

But I digress.

So to balance the unnatural with the natural, we took a walk in nearby Karlkurla Bushland Park. Although spectacular, however, landscape like this hasn't been seen along the Golden Mile for over 100 years.

Karlkurla Bushland Park, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

It's difficult to imagine Kalgoorlie-Boulder without the iconic Super Pit continuing to keep gold mining front and centre. Invoking St Barbara – patron saint of mining, in case you were wondering – just won't cut it once the gold stream runs dry.

While it's tempting to suggest that the Super Pit be fully restored to the original landscape, to completely erase all signs of 'unnatural' mining activity would be to erase Kalgoorlie-Boulder's heritage.

Unnatural Attractions: Kalgoorlie Mining Activity

If that happened, the Pipeline and all other traces of human habitation – also 'unnatural' – should be erased as well to be consistent. Which would be a unnecessary and unrealistic.

So what's an environmentally conscious, community-minded Super-mining company to do with their enormous hole in the ground?

My suggestions:

World's highest Below-Ground-Level Bungee-Jump. Or Sky Dive
World's first Outback International-Standard Ice-Skating Rink
World's largest Below-Ground Cemetery and Crematorium

Section of Super Pit, Kalgoorlie, Western Australia
World's first underground Arboretum and Botanic Gardens

Yeah, OK. I'm not as creative as I sound.

SO … what would YOU do with the largest defunct open pit mine in Australia?

Read MORE:

KCGM Super Pit
Kalgoorlie-Boulder, Western Australia
Western Australia's Goldfields

The Pines, the Portal and the Parallel Universe!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:03:00 +0000

Sugar Pine Walk, Bago State Forest, New South Wales

I'm convinced the Bago State Forest has a portal into another world. Or at the very least, to a parallel universe ...

A few hundred metres down Kopsons Road, off the main road between Batlow and Laurel Hill on the South West Slopes of the New South Wales High country, and you're already in a part of Australia that doesn't look anything like anywhere else in Australia.

Then take just a few steps into the forest – and the world as you know it disappears …

For a start, the pine needles – probably inches thick – muffle the sound.

Walker in the Woods, Sugar Pine Walk, Bago State Forest

Incidentally, fellow Australians concerned that I've reverted to the distant past by my lapse into the long abandoned imperial measurement system of yesteryear need not fear. I'm just paying homage to the provenance of the magnificent Sugar Pines (Pinus lambertiana) towering above me.

Sugar Pine Bark

Because they're native to the US Pacific Coast and common in well known Yosemite National Park, where the tallest recorded specimen, 'Yosemite Giant' at 82m (269 ft) was found until it succumbed to bark beetle attack in 2007.

I'm also paying homage to the great age – greater even than mine – of these spectacular Sugar Pine specimens. Planted in 1928, the trees were still going strong during our March 2013 visit; hardly surprising given their life span in their natural habitat has been estimated as up to 800 years.

Besides, 'centimetres' just doesn't scan …

Needles and Pins

So what's a forest of North American timber doing in a country where the ubiquitous eucalypt – the only genus in the world found in every habitat from Coastal to Alpine – is far more likely to be the tree du jour?

And when, despite the notorious Sugar Pine longevity, they're so prized for timber they'd normally be felled long before reaching this stupendous size??

AND when past experience reluctantly informs us that cash-strapped governments aren't always known for planning beyond the next election, let alone leaving a lucrative 2.4 hectare stand of Sugar Pines uncut for 85 years???

Maybe it's just another manifestation of the magic in the air …

Sky High at Bago State Forest Sugar Pine Walk, New South Wales

Wandering the walk – thankfully short, our 13 km Kosciuszko challenge only a few days past – through the Sugar Pines, time stands still and the warmth of the day does not penetrate. A family enters the forest behind us, children uncharacteristically quiet, and take a side track.

Sugar Pines, Bago State Forest, New South Wales

Do they reappear? Not while we're watching …

… perhaps the portal worked for them?!
But I'm too intrigued by the challenge to the first-world dilemma of childhood obesity inherent in these prodigious pines.

An inbuilt mechanism prevented the Native Americans, for whom the sugary sap from the heartwood was a delicacy, from over-indulging in the crisp, candy-like beads.

Because eat too much, and the sugar's laxative properties would kick in!

The fat kid solution is so obvious I bet no one's actually thought of it!

Do I detect a consultancy opportunity coming on???

The staggering natural beauty of this plantation of the largest of the pines is enough to warp time and give the visitor a taste of a universe where things work differently.

Sugar Pine Portal

And a glimpse of what could be in such a world.

Perhaps that's the portal's REAL magic.

Read MORE:

Aussie ABC: M is for Mount Kosciuszko

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 12:36:00 +0000

Mt Kosciuszko from Charlotte Pass Lookout, Snowy Mountains

'Good on ya, love,' a bloke sang out, one of a trio of pensioners trotting past me as I trudged wearily up the last ~~slight~~ ~~steady~~ impossibly steep incline before the Mt Kosciuszko lookout. Leaving the summit behind I only had 2km of the 13 km (8 miles) round trip summit hike to go, and altitude sickness was kicking in.

Ramshead Range, Mt Kosciuszko Summit Hike

At least, that's the only way I can explain the shortness of breath that had turned this last uphill stretch into a taxing climb.

'You're the only person we've passed all day,' chirped the pensioner in the exact tone of voice that made me want to slap him silly as the trio left me in their wake.

Cheeky beggar!

Pedantic peak-bagging purists don't include Mt Kosciuszko as a valid 'climb' for the 7 Summits despite it being Australia's highest point.

Kosciuszko National Park from Mt Kosciuszko Summit

Puncak Jaya (aka Carstensz Pyramid) in Papua, New Guinea is more than twice as high, they say. And the Australian continent includes New Guinea, they say. And the island of New Guinea is on the Australian continental shelf, they say. The purists climb both, thus extending their 7 Summits to 8 peaks. That SO makes sense … NOT!

Looking down to Rawsons Pass Loo - Highest Public Amenities in OZ!

Although that COULD be the terminal laziness that dogs my footsteps talking ...

The smart money says the REAL reason to exclude Mt Kosciuszko has nothing to do with peak bagging and everything to do with mountaineering elitism.

Blue View to Thredbo

The ambitious scope, rigorous training schedule and technical skill required to complete the 7 Summits make it a challenge so great that only ~350 climbers have completed since it's 1985 conception …

… compared to the estimated 100,000 climbers who conquer Mt Kosciuszko each year.

So hardly a mountaineering exclusive, although people like me DO take training seriously and prepare for the rigours of the 2228m (7313 ft) summit ascent by a test climb on Mt Wycheproof, the world's smallest mountain!

Yes, you heard it here: The summit climb is embarrassingly easy!

13 km to go! Start of Kosciuszko Summit Walk

Especially given the most difficult section of the climb – the 600 m (1982 ft) elevation from ski town Thredbo to the Eagle's Nest restaurant (highest in OZ) – can be completed by chairlift. YESSSSS! From there – a tiny 3.5° C (38° F) the day we climbed – we were above the tree line with a 6.5 km (one way) trek to the top undulating upwards over a 300 m (991 ft) elevation.

Its place in the 7 Summit pantheon isn't the only controversy surrounding the mountain. A neighbouring peak was originally thought to be the highest and dubbed Mt Kosciuszko, with the current Mt Kosciuszko called Mt Townsend. When a survey showed the mistake, the names were switched so that Kosciuszko remained the name of Australia's highest peak!

Although 'peak' isn't the right word – it's more of an imposing rounded dome rising above the surrounding landscape often enough to provide a tantalising glimpse of journey's end. Or at least the half-way mark because the shortest way back is to return to the chairlift the way you came.

Looking towards Victoria - and a bunch of schoolboys ...

But all that is well in the future at the start of the hike with spectacular views WAAAAAY down to Thredbo and up along the rocky Ramshead Range. The kilometres pass quickly along the raised metal walkway that took 17 years to construct that protects the fragile alpine heathland.

Kosciuszko Dead Ahead! 4.5 km to go ... Snowy Mountains, New South Wales

It's a nostalgic moment as we cross the headwaters of the Snowy River. Pastoral country until being phased out in 1969, Aussie poet 'Banjo' Paterson's classic poem 'The Man From Snowy River' superbly captures the legend of this wild high country before the National Park was proclaimed in 1944 and the river harnessed for the Snowy Mountains hydro-electric scheme from 1949.

Headwaters of the Snowy River, Mt Kosciuszko Summit Track, Snowy Mountains

We climb up to a saddle from the river, and now the Australian records come thick and fast. Lake Cootapatamba - highest lake and one of 5 mainland glacial lakes; Rawson's Pass, overlooking highest permanent settlement Charlotte Pass, and location of highest Scenic Public Toilet at 2100 metres; then the final ascent – a relentless climb along the old Charlotte Pass road circling round the dome to the top.

View over Lake Cootapatamba, Australia's highest lake, Kosciuszko Track

And the staggering 360° view over the Main Range, Monaro tablelands and Victorian High Country.

Explorer Paul Strzelecki Statue, Jindabyne, New South Wales

Explorer Count Paul Strzelecki, whose commemorative statue in nearby Jindabyne portrays him as a cross between previous OZ prime minister Bob Hawke and Dracula, was the first to actually record a climb in 1840, although the peak is likely to have been climbed beforehand by local Indigenous people, who called the mountain Tar Gan Gil, and white settlers.

Until 1974, when the road was closed to traffic to help preserve the fragile environment, visitors could drive to the top. And I'll bet the couple who pushed a pram all the way, and the young man carrying two small children in a backpack wished the road was still open …

Waiting our turn for the obligatory summit shot while an endless stream of school groups took more than their fair share of time at the marker cairn, the clouds rolled in – and justified the winter clothes we'd bought in far below Jindabyne! Although it was worth the purchase price to hear the young salesman describe his phobias – Snakes and even a recent snakebite didn't bother him; but Spiders? No way! Mad fool!! But I digress …

Summit Proof Shot! Who are these people??!!

The return trip punctuated by the obligatory tinkle in the highest public toilet in OZ, countless ~~rest~~ ~~exhaustion~~ photo stops, and a voluntary go-slow when I tired of the student wisdom pouring out like … well, lets just say waste … behind me.

'Sir said life is short,' one adenoidal youngster stated to a gaggle of giggling comrades. 'That is incorrect. Life is the longest thing you do,' he concluded triumphantly.

Words to live by? Words to live without … they passed me, chattering inanely …

No thanks, I can jump from here! View from Kosciuszko Express Chairlift

The only cure for altitude sickness is to lose altitude quickly, which the Kosciuszko Express chairlift descent delivered in spades. It's almost impossible to take photos while indulging in a long, silent scream with both hands locked in a white-knuckled death grip on the 'safety' bar – the only thing between me and the 600m drop to Thredbo …

Thredbo getting closer ...

And just like that, my birthday present Kosciuszko adventure was over, leaving me with a fine sense of anti-climax and an almost irresistible urge for a tacky piece of memorabilia like a 'Kozzie' snow dome or a 'Get High' T-shirt to mark the occasion.

But I settled for posting some photos on Flickr and writing this blog post instead.

Besides … I've been to the summit before! As shown by this photo from the year … well, I'm sure it'll be immediately identifiable by the superb example of what the well-dressed mountaineer – a random stranger lucky enough to be captured by Dad's camera – was wearing! A small clue – we apparently drove to the top …

Mt Kosciuszko Summit in 19??

Tragically, this means I can't claim to have climbed it twice – but even if I could, it probably doesn't count if I can't remember it ...

So I'm claiming Kosciuszko as Peak #1 in my 7 Summit Challenge! But don't hold your breath for the next instalment – I'm going for the slowest 7 Summits ever!

Read MORE:

7 Summits
Climbing Mt Kosciuszko – Route Alternatives
Climbing Mt Kosciuszko - Flickr Photos
Kosciuszko National Park
The Man From Snowy River by Andrew 'Banjo' Paterson
Mt Wycheproof – World's Smallest Mountain
Charlotte Pass

RED Alert #8: A Double-half of RED!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 07:23:00 +0000

Culture in the Box!

Be honest. If YOU saw a blog called Double-half or One Ten without Ham you'd just HAVE to check it out, right?

I first saw Iris' blog name in the sidebar of one of the blogs I followed so, unable to resist, I took the link. And that's how I 'met' Iris! Although she's on the other side of the world in Germany, she's a BIG fan of Australia so we virtually visit each other via our blogs quite frequently!

The photos on her blog are full of RED – so my brilliant analytical mind immediately deduced that this could be one of her favourite colours! Which, as I'm sure you'll agree, makes her the obvious choice for RED Alert Guest #8!

RED : Welcome, and thank you for agreeing to be my next RED Alert guest! You've travelled to Australia twice in the 1990's. What are your favourite memories?
IRIS: I´m so thankful my parents made it possible for me to travel your beautiful place for 6 and later another 7 months. Whenever I feel bad I think of the clear-blue sky at night, the Southern Cross. Western Australia is my fave.

RED : You've probably seen more of OZ than many Aussies! What are your 3 TOP places to visit?
IRIS: Perth, Broome, Carnarvon. Seems like I'm a bit stuck in WA! Loved the Outback, the driving, the stars at night. But I have sweet and funny memories of the rest, too! A retiree who obviously thought "Oh! Guys from WA - and they won´t fit in the deep-garage!!!!" He gestured like crazy, we knew we had about 2-3cm left. Still makes me laugh. Mean, I am, huh?

RED : And your least favourite Australian place?
IRIS: I guess that was Hervey Bay - the (free) showers were awfully cold. I didn´t give Adelaide or Melbourne much of a chance, either, sadly (time-problem).

RED : That's what 'next time' is for, right? What is your favourite colour?
IRIS: It is indeed RED . And green!

COOL Red Keyboard!

RED : Good answer! How do I get one of those cool RED keyboards?
IRIS: Go to Saturn! :-) No really! http://www.saturn.de/!! Aren´t keyboards like that available in your place? I can send you one!

Red Card

RED : Haha! I wonder will we ever get to go to Saturn for real in our lifetime … That's a cute card! What do the words mean?
IRIS: The card says "There are days full of happiness. Think back to them when things arent just good right now”. And in RED - "everything will be ok".

RED : It's nice to be reminded of happiness. What makes you happy?
IRIS: Health, love and good weather! Family!

RED : Is this card at work or home?
IRIS: At home. At work I have the last birthday card, it shows a beach and my boss wished me "fun at work"!

RED : He must have a great sense of humour!! What does the colour RED mean to you?
IRIS: RED is a symbol for love. RED is powerful, fast. It can be warm as well as funky.

RED : That table is SO COOL! But what's on it?
IRIS: My purse - with pics of my partner Ingo... and Elmo, last one RED , like the purse (am I childish? Aww, well!)

Cool Table ... with RED Purse!

RED : Being childish is not a bad thing, is it? If so, then I'm in BIIIIIG trouble! Is Ingo happy to be next to a photo of Elmo?
IRIS: About 18 years ago (oh, help!) Elmo somehow ended up being a mascot for us - he was always with us, also throughout Australia, so, yes, I think Ingo is happy with it :-) We were the only adults without kids in "Elmo in Grouchland" in Kalgoorlie...

RED : I know that feeling! That's a cool RED box with the frog (top photo). What is it?
IRIS: It means “Culture in the tent” and it's an "emergency-suitcase" for an event I never went to so far, cause I missed it the one time I was interested! My friend put it in the advent-calendar she makes me since my Dad´s passing.

RED : What is in your emergency suitcase?
IRIS: In our real emergency suitcase is the stuff packed by the producer, oh, how lame this answer is! We never had to open it! It can be hot. Or cold. Rainy with mozzies (Autan). There is rhythm, that´s what the egg is for.

Emergency Box Contents

RED : Did you ever need an emergency suitcase in Australia?
IRIS: It may be a wonder: No! We gathered firewood with bare hands in 1995... Yes. That IS stupid, dang stupid.

RED: Sadly, I've seen a lot worse from my fellow Australians … What was the worst problem you had in Australia?
IRIS: Insects! Ewww. And I needed to go to the hospital in Wyndham, but the doc fixed me in a sec (back-problems) and didn´t want any money, either! And he gave us tips where to go next.

RED : That's just what us Aussies are like!! Well ... some of us, anyway! When are you coming back to Australia?
IRIS: That is hard to answer! I´d love to hop in a plane right now, but being realistic... it can be a while. But one day I will be back!

RED : Bring on retirement, huh?! This is just one corner of your condo and it's full of RED ! What are all these things?

IRIS: I love IKEA, at times. I need to put real pics in that photo-thingy! The pink suitcase is for my Niece, the "stuff" goes in there in time. The "stones" are for my parents. The first says, "when time ends, eternity begins", the other "You left our lives, but you stay in our hearts". I miss them so much! My Dad died 11 years ago, my Mum just recently. Cancer.

RED : I'm sorry to hear that. They are beautiful thoughts for your parents. The knife guy (below photo) is deadly - what would you MOST like him to destroy?
IRIS: Cancer.

Red Stuff!

RED: Most people I know have been affected by cancer in some way, so you will have a lot of support for that wish. There's a lot of RED in your condo – Why?
IRIS: 13 years of weekend-relationship may be the cause. Our apartments since living together have been colorful! Another wall is orange, there is a green wall and a green "chamber". Colors make us happy.

RED : The knife guy is surrounded by interesting things! Tell us about them!
IRIS: Our kitchen is too small, so this "knife-guy" lives here. With RED . And green. And a frog ;-). And with the Australian flag :-) OH!!!! No relation between those two!! Sigh! Sometimes you see things different through a lens, right? And yes, I love frogs...

RED : What is your most precious RED thing?
IRIS: A heart Ingo gave me http://www.drachenfels-design.de/) I wear it on a "necklace" of leather!

RED : I'm jealous! I want one!! What is the meaning of your blog's name?
IRIS: Originally it was "Double half" only - having everything twice due to a weekends-only relationship (with Partner Ingo), and feeling like a half from Mon-Fri. Then when we moved in together in my place I had to give up on my occasional favourite Pizza in my hometown. I don´t know the name so called it "Ten without Ham" because it´s been my favourite since I was 12 or 14 (I bet they changed the menu-card), it used to be #10 and I don´t like the ham on it. The guys know me and even my Mum ordered a "Zehn ohne Schinken" to surprise me. The Pizza guy, Nico, said, "ah, for Braunschweig!" So “One Ten without Ham”!

Knife Guy

RED : What is the best thing about blogging?
IRIS: Keeping the memories, reflect on your life more - and making new friends! And when your Spouse says, "nah, it wasn´t like that!", you may have prove you´re right (or he is! Aw, well...)

RED : Who are your favourite bloggers?
IRIS: Well, yours is one of them :-)

RED : HHHMMMmmm... Good answer!!!

IRIS: In general I like to come back to Australia via blogs at least, so these are great, too (just a few!):

And although I don't have kids, I also love family blogs, especially these:

RED : I look forward to reading them! Do you have a favourite quote?
IRIS: Despite not liking sweets I love the quote used in Forrest Gump, "Life is like a box of chocolate - you never know what you get." I´m glad for not knowing, life would be awful at times!

RED : Do you have any RED words of wisdom for my readers?
IRIS: I do! Visit the beautiful RED places in Australia! And don´t wear white clothes doing so ;-)

RED : Hahaha! Couldn't have put it better myself! Thank you Iris! If YOU have some RED photos and would like to be my next ~~victim~~ guest on RED Alert, let me know! I'm sure you won't regret it ... no, REALLY!

Want MORE? Read ALL the RED Alert Guests:

#8 Iris - Double-half or One Ten Without Ham (blog)
#7 ladyfi - Red Glory in Sweden
#6 Terri - Terri ROCKS Red Rocks!
#5 Chris - I Must Be Off in the RED Zone!
#4 Diane - Adventure Before Dementia Goes WEST!
#3 Riet - Red and Redder in the Netherlands!
#2 Annabel - Get in the Hot Spot sees RED!
#1 Jim - Holes in My Soles goes to Africa!

And ... for even MORE, visit Our World Tuesday for glimpses of life from all round the world!

The Landslide Legacy – Australia's Scenic Public Toilet # 34, Wool Bay

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 22:26:00 +0000

Wool Bay Jetty (and public loos) from old Limestone Kiln, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia

Looking down over the steep limestone cliff into the multicoloured waters of the Southern Yorke Peninsula's Wool Bay can be a parallel universe moment as the flat and unremarkable pastoral country – often dry and arid – gives way to the vividly coloured and splendid panorama of the bay.

Wool Bay from the Jetty, Yorke Peninsula

High on the cliff the now disused limestone kiln, the only remaining one of several which once gave this tiny town its purpose towers above the jetty that gave the town its current name.

The jetty, while built for limestone transportation, is apparently wide enough to roll a bale of wool down and therefore became known as the Wool Bay Jetty. Of course whether anyone ever indulged in the (tragically) lost art of jetty-wool-bale-rolling is unknown AND irrelevant – because the fact of being able to was enough to change the town's name from Pickering to Wool Bay.

Wool Bay Limestone Kiln from Loos, Wool Bay, Yorke Peninsula

Just as well it wasn't re-named 'Limestone Bay'.

Despite the fanfare and great expectations of the opening ceremony on 11 August 1910, the variable wind conditions meant that although Miller's Lime Kiln Co became the main supplier of lime for the Adelaide building industry, the three clifftop kilns were not successful.

Wool Bay's Limestone Landslide Legacy, the Temporary Toilets! South Australia

So what's a nice temporary toilet doing in a place like this?

Clifftop sign, Wool Bay

Previous Loo site, Wool Bay

A couple of years ago, an uncharacteristically heavy storm dumped so much rain in the area that the fragile limestone cliff above the previous 'permanent' public amenities collapsed and took out the loo.

BUT … every cloud has a silver lining!
The magnificent coastal views from the new amenities for the many visitors who use the jetty for fishing, diving to spot leafy seadragons and other recreational pursuits are far more extensive than from the old site!

The waters of Wool Bay

The panorama from the top of the old limestone kiln is enhanced by the distinctive 'building site blocks' that add a focal point to the car park and wharf!!

Limestone Kiln, Landslide and Loos from the Wool Bay Jetty

And the temporary toilet's convenient location virtually on the jetty ensures far less 'down time' when nature calls!!!

What's NOT to love?!?!

SO … who needs a lasting loo when these fine fly-by-night fixtures are already a semi-permanent part of the Wool Bay jetty landscape?

The legacy of Wool Bay's limestone landslide might just turn out to be permanent after all!!

Watch this space ...

Read MORE:

Wool Bay, South Australia
Yorke Peninsula, South Australia
MORE Australian Scenic Public Toilets

The Conveniences Context: Wool Bay Jetty, Loos and Limestone Kiln with Pt Giles Jetty in the background

Birds, Ballads and Billabongs: Australia's Wild West!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 10:43:00 +0000

Birds of Marlgu Billabong

It's hardly surprising, given the lyrics of Aussie folk ballad Waltzing Matilda* are responsible for most people's entire knowledge of billabongs**, that to visit a real one raises certain expectations.

So the unexpected dearth of swagmen, coolibah trees, jolly jumbucks and troopers at the Marlgu Billabong, oasis in the Kimberley west of Kununurra, was a staggering disappointment.

BUT ... at least we didn't have to wait long to find out why!

Bizarrely, while technically accurate, the two-sentence teaser from the Glove Box Guide to the East Kimberley didn't fully capture the essence of Marlgu Billabong or prepare us for its many attractions.

A boardwalk and shaded bird hide have been constructed over a billabong within the Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. A birdwatcher's paradise.

The extensive Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham & Kununurra, Western Australia

Although that would – and did – capture a twitcher's attention, it probably wasn't quite enough to reel in the crowds this unexpected jewel-like Outback oasis deserves.

En Route to Marlgu Billabong, via Wyndham, Western Australia

And the roads in weren't doing it any favours either.

But then, it's probably just as well. Massive crowds at Marlgu – an Aboriginal word meaning 'wild bird' – Billabong would almost certainly affect the quality of an experience dependent on listening, observing and patience. But bigger crowds would significantly enhance my own secret indulgence – people watching!

Pas de Deux: Green Pygmy Geese at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

And watching the visitors who think Marlgu Billabong is an amusement park with performing animals just waiting for their pix to be uploaded onto a random strangers FaceBook page are funniest of all. Because the creatures who frequent this remote and sometimes inaccessible spot are wild, unpredictable and – oddly – don't seem to have the tourist experience at the top of their agenda!

But a quiet observer is usually rewarded … and although it's possible to come here and NOT see anything, that didn't happen to us!

Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

On the alternative back route (read 'rough 4WD track') from Kununurra to Wyndham, the Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve of which Marlgu Billabong is a part, is a RAMSAR*** wetland of international significance as it's on the shorebird migration route.

Magpie Geese in flight above Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

Although shorebirds are the last thing you'd expect to see after driving through the magnificently dry and arid East Kimberley landscape en route to the Billabong. The parched dry season landscape doesn't look as if it's EVER been wet, let alone wet enough to support a large and thriving permanent waterhole.

That isn't just used by the birds ...

None of the 60+ bird species we observed on our two July 2012 visits (totalling 3-4 hours) seemed overly concerned by the ever-present – and quite large – crocodiles that delighted the random selection of tourists who actually saw them.

Maybe because the big crocs rarely bother with such small prey – the energy burned by catching them is far greater than the small amount replaced by eating them!

They're after larger prey. Like swagmen and jumbucks ...

Killer photographs aside, witnessing direct interaction between the crocodiles and the bird life would have been a bit ghoulish – so thankfully, despite the aggression imbalance, the scene remained peaceful and serene.

Our caravan park neighbour also seemed happy enough not to be involved in a direct human/croc interaction, albeit for different reasons. Upon hearing he was to travel northern Australia in a campervan, his Swiss friends were apparently convinced he'd fall victim to a crocodile attack.

'So I CAN'T be taken by a crocodile, you see,' he explained. 'I'd never live it down!'

Telegraph Hill, Parrys Lagoon Nature Reserve via Wyndham, Western Australia

I'm sure the car hire companies would be intrigued by footage of the random selection of vehicles jolting down the rough, rocky track to the waterhole from the old Telegraph Station on – yes, you guessed right: Telegraph Hill – overlooking the Billabong.

But inadvertent entertainment aside, they were only a brief distraction from the main attraction – starting with the pair of Brolga in the carpark, the massive selection of ducks in the shallow waters surrounding the main pool, the astonishing array of birdlife on the billabong itself, and – of course – the crocodiles!

Brolga at Marlgu Billabong, Kimberley, Western Australia

The non-existent amenities block and the crocodile's natural tendency to police taking nature's call from behind a tree ensure most visitors move on after a relatively short visit. Whether or not it's a deliberate strategy to reduce human impact, tragically it means the billabong won't be featuring in my Australian Scenic Public Toilet series …

… and also turns the Waltzing Matilda fantasy tableau - a swagman boiling his billy while camped beside the Billabong with a freshly killed sheep ready to roast – into Waterhole Massacre.

Crocodile at Marlgu Billabong, Western Australia

But with all the crocodile, tourist and other wildlife action, who cares?

Kimberley Landscape near Marlgu Billabong

* Refer to lyrics from Waltzing Matilda, arguably the most popular Aussie song of all time

** Billabong = Oxbow lake

*** Ramsar Wetlands

Read MORE:

Marlgu Billabong & Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve
Aussie Crocodile Hot Spots
Waltzing Matilda
Click HERE to see Slim Dusty singing Waltzing Matilda

1000 Words About … Pedestrians Crossing!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Mon, 01 Apr 2013 08:53:00 +0000

Pedestrians at the start of the Tunnel Creek Crossing, Western Australia

The advantages of long legs were immediately apparent as we entered the enclosing darkness of the Tunnel Creek cave system east of Derby – and stepped into the thigh high cold water.

Sparing a thought for legendary Indigenous leader and activist Jandamarra, who used these remote caves in the depths of the Western Australian Kimberley region along the infamous Gibb River Road as a hideout in the late 1800's, I felt for the creek bed I couldn't see through the gloom with every step.

Eerie in the dim light of our torches, intricate limestone formations towered above as the creek swirled silently around my legs and a keyhole of light in the distance showed the end of our crossing.

Pedestrians at the other side of the Tunnel Creek crossing, Kimberley, Western Australia

Inaccessible during the wet season when Tunnel Creek sometimes fills the vast caverns of remnant Devonian Reef dwarfing the tiny pedestrians crawling beneath it, the most dangerous part of our dry season ~750m crossing to the oasis at the far end of the caves was the possibility of wet – um – nether regions!

Back home, we should be so lucky if our crossings as urban pedestrians were as danger- and trouble-free!!

Tunnel Creek just before it enters the cave system, Tunnel Creek National Park, Western Australia

'Pedestrians Crossing' is the City Daily Photo community theme for this first day of April. Why not go HERE for the different interpretations of this theme from around the world?

Read MORE:

Tunnel Creek National Park and Gibb River Road
Jandamarra
1000 Words About ...

RedHeads ROCK the Liebster Award!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 10:11:00 +0000

She travels.

She blogs.

She's a REDHEAD!

She's a LOT like me!!

SO … what's NOT to love about Vicki of redheadedtravels.com fame?

Especially now that she's passed me the poisoned chalice of the LIEBSTER Award …

It seems that the origins of this blog-lovin' award that recognises blogging fabulousness (well, I got it, didn't I?) by highlighting selected blogs and profiling the bloggers who made them happen have been lost in the mists of time!

So, today I'm sticking with Vicki's rules – here's how to play!

Share 11 Random Facts about yourself
Answer Vicki's 11 questions
Share the ~~pain~~ joy by nominating another 11 bloggers. Give them your own 11 questions to answer; and tell them you've nominated them!

Red Nomad Revealed: 11 Random Facts about ME!

My left eye is blue and my right eye is black. I've scared a lot of young children by pretending I'm an alien …

Red & Pilchard at Mt Kosciuszko Summit - Highest Point in Australia!

… which technically I am. I was born in New Zealand! But if you want to observe a real, live deportation, you'll be disappointed. I'm an Australian citizen!!

AND … a loud and proud Aussie traveller. Just don't ask me where my favourite place is – I'm so fickle it's generally the last place I've been to! At this point, that makes it the Snowy Mountains ...

...where the highest I've ever been (without flying) is 2228 metres – the top of Mt Kosciuszko, highest point in Australia …
… which I climbed to celebrate a significant birthday. I'll leave you to guess which one!

BLACK Sunset at Lake Pamamaroo, Menindee Lakes, New South Wales

BLACK is my favourite colour. But for those ~~pedants~~ purists who insist it's NOT a colour, RED comes a very close second …

What's NOT to love about RED? When it looks like this Eucalypt bark in the Snowy Mountains, that is!

… closely followed by other colours like Blue. And Green! Actually, ALL the colours of the Rainbow – so I've started some Pinterest boards to capture the Colours of OZ!

But RED features prominently in many parts of OZ – including my choice for quintessential Aussie landscape photo!

Dingo at Ormiston Gorge, Central Australia

I'm loudly and proudly an amateur photographer! My photos complement my diary as a visual record of what I actually see on my travels ...

Sugar Pines near Batlow, New South Wales

… which means I rarely leave the house without my 'camera equipment' (aka one point and click camera) …
… and I leave creating art by post-production photographic manipulation to the experts! If my camera doesn't do it, it doesn't happen SO ... this is as good as it gets for me!

RED HOT: The GRILL – from Vicki:

My answers to Vicki's questions:

1 What is your favourite Ice Cream Flavour?

I've been told not to bother turning up to dinner parties unless I bring my own concoction involving fresh cherries, cranberries, brandy, nuts, lemon juice, brown sugar and ginger swirled through a homemade vanilla ice cream base and covered in chocolate sauce. OMG I love my own cooking ...

2 What is something you wish you could do really well?

Oldest Bakery in Australia - Gundagai, New South Wales

Lose weight! But … that's probably not going to happen in THIS lifetime with so many as yet undiscovered Aussie bakeries just waiting for a Red Nomad OZ visit!

3 If you had the chance to have lunch with one person (living or dead) who would it be?

That would depend on the lunch location.

So for example, it it's in the Outback, I'd choose Aussie poet Andrew 'Banjo' Paterson or Eulo Queen Hotel publican Isabel Robinson. In Central Australia, I'd choose activist for Aboriginal rights Olive Pink or Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira. In the Riverland, I'd choose Aussie author Nancy Cato or explorer Captain Charles Sturt.

But for lunch on top of Australia's highest mountain Mt Kosciuszko? There's only ONE choice!! Pilchard's the man!

The Big Trout, Adaminaby, New South Wales

4 What makes you smile?

The anticipation of finding another Aussie BIG Thing! Or a cool Travel Sign!!

5 What activity recharges your energy?

Apart from travelling and eating?

That frisson of excitement when landscape, experience, colour, texture and novelty amalgamate into an instant of such staggering perfection I gasp involuntarily. And try to photograph it!

6 What is the best Festival you've ever been to?

I'm an each-way bet kinda gal. So it's a toss up between the Bedourie Camel Races and the Kununurra Agricultural Show!

Camel Racing at Bedourie, Outback Queensland

How DO you decide between a) eating a plateful of Cocky's joy while watching the boys from the bush clear the racetrack after a whole mess of camels have thundered down it; or b) watching your very first Cane Toad race while sucking down a frozen chocolate coated banana with a mango smoothie chaser??

A little diversion before the race - Thommo's strange way with Cane Toads ...

7 What social network do you use the most?

The 'actual' one. You can't beat talking to real, live 'people' – even better if they're literal 'friends' – using actual 'words' in a 'conversation'.

Old Pub sign, Hamilton Hotel via Winton

But its also gr8 2 cre8 Twttr msg 4u with linx 2 cool #OZ #travel stuff & killer #Aussie pix 2 make u ask OZ? YNOT? All in ONLY 140 chrctrs!

For a piece of THAT action, visit @RedNomadOZ!

8 Why did you start your travel blog?

The short version? To share the best of OZ with the world.

The long version? Check out my first post HERE!

9 Where did you get your first passport stamp?

HHHMMMmmm … too young to remember. Quite possibly Fiji – but I was on my Mum's passport then. Does that count?

Arty Sunset Shot - Boab tree at Derby, the Kimberley, Western Australia

10 What one item do you never travel without?

It's a tough choice between good maps, travel insurance and ear-plugs. In fact, I can't decide. So YOU tell ME – which is the most important?!?!

Snake on the road, Mt William, Grampians, Victoria

11 Dogs or cats?

Neither. A mongoose is the ONLY choice for an Ophidiophobic.

Share the Liebster LOVE:

And here are the lucky(!) bloggers I've nominated (in no particular order) …

Saucy Kod at Saucy Kodz Blog
Fun 60 at After 60 – the Next 10
Jo at Zigazag Mag
Kerry at A Novel Journey
Carole M at Caroles Creative Corner
Glen at Glens Life
SFlaGuy at South Florida Guy
Jill at Life Images by Jill
Tina at Not Just Another Mother Blogger
Rose at Rose ~ from OZ
Beach Bum at Life and Times of a Carolina Parrothead

Your questions, should you choose to participate, are as follows:

What's your favourite colour?
What is the absolute BEST thing to eat?
You're on a deserted island and you can choose one person to join you. Who is it?
What scares you rigid?
What's your favourite way to pass the time on a long journey?
Where are you going for your next holiday?
If you were to visit and/or travel in Australia, what would you most like to see?
What's your all-time favourite book?
What's your most popular blog post (define that however you like!)?
What was your most embarrassing moment?
What's your favourite quote?

Poplars at Lake Jindabyne, Snowy Mountains New South Wales

And as I leave you with this gratuitous arty shot of Poplars reflected on Lake Jindabyne, I hope you've enjoyed the Liebster as much as I have!

The “Daleks” of Khancoban

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 09:56:00 +0000

Khancoban Pondage at Sunset, New South Wales

Aglow in the setting sun, the Khancoban Pondage encircled with impossibly high mountains* was a calendar shot just waiting to happen**.

So picturesquely pleasing, the scene seemed perfect.

Too perfect …

Reflections at Khancoban Pondage, Snowy Mountains, New South Wales

From the vantage point of our campsite in the Khancoban Lakeside Holiday Resort we wondered if instead of just crossing the border over the River Murray from Victoria into New South Wales, we'd inadvertently stumbled through a portal into another country.

Was this REALLY Australia?

Who knew what may have been unleashed when the tunnels deep beneath the Snowy Mountain Range towering behind us were blasted over 60 years ago??

Still life with Pelican at Khancoban Pondage, New South Wales

Ahead of its time and considered one of the engineering wonders of the modern world, the complex series of tunnels, lakes*** and dams of the Snowy Mountains Scheme that harness and divert the Snowy River for irrigation and hydro-electricity flow ever downwards to the Khancoban Pondage.

Where in a setting so soporifically serene its hard to imagine what's buried within the mountains behind, we fall asleep only to awaken to the rising sun, lighting the pondage from the other side.

Dawn at Khancoban Pondage, Snowy Mountains, New South Wales

Yes, it really IS too otherworldly.

BUT … there's good reason for it.

Murray 1 Power Station, Khancoban

Just a few kilometres up the road at the start of the Alpine Way traversing the Snowy Mountains to link Khancoban with the much higher skiing village of Thredbo, the Murray 1 Power Station viewing platform looks down to an astonishing sight.

Through its windows far below, we spotted them.

Yes, although they're cunningly disguised as generators, their distinctive and unmistakeable shape wouldn't fool a die-hard Dr Who fan for a moment!

Daleks? At Khancoban??

The "Daleks" of Khancoban

Did the Snowy Mountains Scheme blasting that tunnelled under the mountains apart crack open a portal? Maybe the influx of 100,000 overseas workers who helped build the Scheme include some aliens?? Or perhaps they've been enslaved – doomed forever to produce clean, green energy for Australia, the uncanny perfection of the Khancoban Pondage a distraction from what lies beneath …

Although the authorities will doubtless deny that the Snowy Mountains Scheme was just a front to contain a Dalek invasion of Earth, it's surely not impossible.

Is that a Dalek I see before me?!?!

Is it??

* By Australian standards!!

** But not for long …

*** aka 'Pondages'

Read MORE:

G - this one's for you!

PS For a fresh look at Water from around the world, visit Nature Footstep's Waters! You won't regret it ...

Australia's TOP Toilet! #33 – Charlotte Pass, New South Wales

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:18:00 +0000

Charlotte Pass Amenities Block, Mt Kosciuszko National Park, New South Wales

As the road wound inexorably upwards through rocky peaks and alpine meadows studded with non-operational chairlifts, the temperature dropped, then dropped some more. Fresh from the 39°C of an Adelaide autumn heatwave, we'd plunged right along with the temperature into the parallel universe of the Mt Kosciuszko National Park in the heart of the High Country.

Overlooking Charlotte Pass, New South Wales

At the 1835 metre (6020 ft) mark, the road stopped. From here, tracks led in several directions. Down the road to ski resort village Charlotte Pass, at a mere 1760 metres (5774 ft) Australia's highest permanent settlement. Along the ridge to the Main Range lookout. Up to the chairlift and lookout point across the Snowy River to the – yes, Aussie imagination runs wild – Snowy Mountains. And a track to Mt Kosciuszko, Australia's highest point.

Mt Kosciuszko (highest point at right with people at summit), Snowy Mountains, New South Wales

Named for Charlotte Adams, the first non-indigenous woman to scale the mountain, Charlotte Pass was a crossover point for the last 9 km (~5 miles) for what used to be the drive – yes, the DRIVE – to the top of Mt Kosciuszko's 2228 metre (7310 feet) peak. Now it's the starting point for one of several walking trails to the summit – from here, an 18 km (~11 mile) round trip.

Go before you go at Australia's highest Public Toilet, Charlotte Pass, New South Wales

Of course before you go, you need to GO, right?

So here on Charlotte Pass at the trailhead to the Mt Kosciuszko summit is a conveniently placed public amenities building – at 1835 metres and just below the tree line, ALMOST Australia's highest Public Toilet! But unless you catch the Kosciuszko Express chairlift from Thredbo, or climb Mt Kosciuszko from the chairlift summit, it COULD be as high a loo as you'll get in OZ! That's TOP #1!

Flame Robin at Charlotte Pass, New South Wales

Completely snowbound in winter, Charlotte Pass also trumps the rest of the country with Australia's lowest recorded temperature, -23°C (-9.4°F) on 28 June, 1994. I'll pause for a minute for the Northern Hemisphereans to stop laughing … but that's TOP #2!

From the Main Range lookout, the highest of the high Snowy Mountain range forms a magnificent backdrop to this isolated amenities block.

With Mt Kosciuszko and Mt Townsend (Australia's 2^nd highest peak), and a whole bunch of other really high mountains (by Australian standards) visible to the right of the Charlotte Pass conveniences from the Main Range Lookout, that makes TOP #3!!

Charlotte Pass Public Conveniences (circled at left) with Mt Kosciuszko (left arrow) & approx location of Mt Townsend

So if my planned assault on Mt Kosciuszko later this week is foiled by lousy weather or terminal muscle meltdown, at least I'll have had the pleasure of doing my business in ALMOST the TOP little toilet in OZ!

Read MORE:

Charlotte Pass
Mt Kosciuszko
MORE Australian Scenic Public Toilets!

PS 21 March 2013 ... HOW EMBARASSING!!!! Charlotte Pass ISN'T the highest public loo in OZ! It's not even the 2nd highest ... SO I've updated this post accordingly, and will shortly be posting about Australia's REAL highest public loo ...

6 ALMOST Secret TOP Aussie National Parks!

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Tue, 12 Mar 2013 06:31:00 +0000

At LAST I've got the answer to that irritating question – Have you been to all of Australia's National Parks?

I'll just get out my recently released 2^nd edition of Explore Australia's excellent Explore Australia's National Parks! And point out that to visit ALL of Australia's 500+ National Parks would be a life-long project.

The question comes up because many stop counting after Uluru-Kata Tjuta, the Great Barrier Reef, Kakadu and the Blue Mountains. But what about the other 500 or so? Over the years, our travels in Australia have taken us to some spectacular National Parks where, in many cases, we've had them all to ourselves.

Using Explore Australia's National Parks will help to narrow the field. And I'm not just saying that because I was lucky to get a complementary copy - check out the inforgraphic at left, then take a little armchair tour of these 6 less well known Australian National Parks and you'll see what I mean!!

Then keep reading to see how YOU could win a copy for yourself!

1. Great Australian Bight Marine National Park, South Australia:

Whale with Calf, Head of Bight, South Australia

Driving the Nullarbor is the ultimate road trip – part of a 4000 km journey from one side of Australia to the other, its big chunks of nothing broken only by roadhouses, rest stops and 'roos! And stopping for the obligatory photo of yourself in the middle of a long stretch of empty road with nothing all around ...

But the drive through the Nullarbor Regional Reserve is an adventure in itself with several world exclusives, including Nullarbor Links, the world's longest golf course; the Nullarbor itself, world's longest, flattest limetone formation; and the Bunda cliffs – longest unbroken stretch of cliffs without a natural harbour in the world.

Whales in Bight, with Bunda Cliffs behind, South Australia

For those unimpressed by such things, the Great Australian Bight – that big concave bit along the bottom of the continent – is a world reknowned Southern Right Whale nursery and migration path.

And on a good day – May to October – literally dozens of whales and calves can be spotted up and down the coast from the Head of Bight viewing platforms.

Such a spectacle, in fact, that I almost didn't notice the scenic public toilet!

Read MORE: Whale Watching at Head of Bight

2. Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria:

For a complete change of pace, Victoria's Mallee country is a surprise to those who thought the Outback was confined to Australia's more central parts.

Wonga Campground, Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

Only 450 km north-west of Melbourne, visit Wyperfeld's eastern section from nearby Hopetoun or Rainbow, but for a real outback experience camp in one of the park's two campgrounds and explore the park on foot.

Dunes at Wyperfeld National Park, Victoria

With walking trails to suit all levels of fitness, the park is part of a complex lake system and is a known habitat for the endangered Mallee fowl.

During our May 2012 day trip, we saw two other cars. But we're hoping that when we return to stay, we'll be on our own!

And when you're done, drop in to nearby Patchewollock for the BIG Mallee fowl!

Read MORE: Patchewollock and Hopetoun

3. Cape Range National Park, Western Australia:

The poor relation of Exmouth's two parks, Cape Range is often overshadowed by the world famous Whale Sharks of Ningaloo Reef. And while these Western Australian Coral Coast offshore attractions are undeniably spectacular, Cape Range was so intriguing on our August 2012 visit, we saved Ningaloo for next time.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

After escaping our campsite between the twin delights of the amenities block and the backpacker accomodation, Yardie Creek Gorge along the western side of the range running down the middle of Northwest Cape was a welcome surprise.

Yardie Creek Gorge, Cape Range National Park

It's not every day you get to see a classic Outback Gorge with a river running into the ocean!

The eastern side of the range was even more dramatic. A very rough, narrow, winding and steep drive along the aptly named Charles Knife Road revealed more rugged Outback scenery – with staggering views across to the ocean.

And in the height of tourist season, with caravan parks and campgrounds full to bursting, we lucked out with only a couple of other vehicles!

Although one contained quite possibly the only sarong-wearing Frenchman in the world ...

Read MORE: Exploring Cape Range National Park

Charles Knife Road Lookout, Cape Range National Park, via Exmouth, Western Australia

4. Keep River National Park, Northern Territory:

Described to us as the 'mini Bungle Bungles' in a nod to one of Western Australia's big ticket items, the Northern Territory's Keep River National Park actually abuts the WA border. And makes a mockery of the 1½ hour time difference! Although we left Kununurra early, by the time we'd visited the Ranger station and nearby Cockatoo Lagoon, then driven to the 7km Jarnem Loop walk trailhead, the morning had all but gone.

Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

No matter.

White-quilled Rock-pigeon, Keep River National Park

This spectacular walk through bizarre rock formations to the 360º lookout, then down through a lightly wooded valley past more rock formations to an Aboriginal rock shelter complete with paintings was virtually people free!

Add a lifer – White-quilled Rock-pigeon – for twitcher Pilchard and I see a return to this remote Top End park in our future …

I can only imagine the views at sunset and sunrise – but one day we'll stay in one of the campgrounds for a few days and find out!

And when one day we visit the real Bungle Bungles, we'll see how it got it's nickname!

5. Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales:

Jolting along the rough road from remote opal mining town White Cliffs towards Paroo-Darling National Park's Peery Lake, we spotted a Winnebago parked in the middle of the road. Stopping to make sure the owners were OK, we asked where they'd come from. The middle aged couple exchanged guilty glances and seemed strangely reluctant to tell us.

Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park, via White Cliffs, New South Wales

'You're not Park rangers, are you?', she finally asked. Then the penny dropped! They'd illegally stayed at the lake overnight.

'It's not really camping,' she continued. 'We're fully self-contained!'

And that was our introduction to both Paroo-Darling National Park and the new definitions of 'camping'.

Paroo-Darling National Park, New South Wales

The park is a string of seven old pastoral leases, several of which form one of the only reserves on the Darling River floodplain.

The park's only campground – the Coach and Horses – is in this section, more easily reached from Wilcannia.

In the northern sections, along the Paroo River Overflow before it meets the Darling near Wilcannia. In this part of the park, the massive bulk of Lake Peery, full during our 2010 visit, supports abundant birdlife but when dry its unique mound springs become visible.

Then we returned to White Cliffs for 7½ minutes in Paradise!

Read MORE: White Cliffs, New South Wales

6. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland:

Back in 1998 on our first and only visit, Queensland's Lawn Hill was considered a remote destination with the riverbanks at closest town Gregory Downs a makeshift stopover campsite before the rigours of 100 km of bulldust and gravel.

Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

Nowadays, nearly 15 years later, it's still a long, hard 100 km of unsealed road. With either mud or dust, depending on the time of year.

But it's still one of the most spectacularly memorable National Parks in Australia, an Outback oasis with a soaring red rocky gorge system, clear water and staggering scenery. The canoe trip from the camping area up the gorge, then over the portage point into the higher gorge is an amazing experience. Get close to the wildlife too! Swim with the giant carp, spot freshwater crocodiles lurking in the gorges – and watch out for snakes in the water! My first instinct was to paddle like hell when my oar nearly hit a snake in the water; but Pilchard wanted to paddle back to see what he'd missed.

Lawn Hill Upper and Middle Gorges, Boodjamulla National Park, Queensland

I guess that's the essential difference between us!

Back at the campground's cold showers, the high limestone content in the water gave a whole new meaning to 'sculpted hairdo' ...

Expansive view from Jarnem Walk Lookout, Keep River National Park, Northern Territory

While travelling to these National Parks may take a little longer, the trip is well worth the extravaganza of stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and extraordinary experiences you'll encounter.

If YOU would like to explore Australia's National Parks further, Explore Australia has a copy of Explore Australia's National Parks to give away! You're eligible to enter if you have an Australian postal address as the book will be posted to the winner.

Just tell me the Australian National Park you'd most like to visit AND that you're entering the competition in the comments below! Please also ensure that I can contact you by email.

The competition will close at Midnight, 20 March 2013, Australian Eastern Daylight Saving Time, and the winner will be randomly selected. Good Luck!

Now you see it … OZ Scenic Public Toilet #32

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 08:20:00 +0000

Semaphore streetscape, Adelaide, South Australia

What's a nice Scenic Public Toilet doing in a street like this?

Who knew that exploring Adelaide beachside suburb Semaphore would reveal such an intriguing blend of almost tasteful camouflage and cutting edge convenience technology?

Is that a toilet I see before me???

Actually, who knew there WAS such cutting edge convenience technology??

Accidentally wandering into the main street's residential zone after trawling the Semaphore shops for loot, as one does, I'd already turned to go back when Pilchard nudged me.

'Look over there,' he murmured with a coded jerk of the head that the unaware and/or unkind would immediately dismiss as a muscle spasm.

I looked.

I saw nothing. Pilchard smiled evilly.

'What?' I demanded, exasperated. This wasn't the first time he'd pointed out something I would find 'exciting', like a bird on the fence or an unusual plant. But this time, apart from an undeniably attractive streetscape offset against the blue South Australian summer sky, I could see nothing.

The well-disguised public amenities on a Semaphore Street, South Australia

'Can't you see the toilet?' Pilchard asked, with more than a touch of smugness.

This time I looked more carefully. The antique lamp posts, some stone fronted cottages, a bus stop. And – another bus stop?

Actually, no.

In case you were wondering ...

The tiny structure's muted tones, a carefully executed mural showing bare-branched autumn trees behind a wrought iron fence against a sepia sky, blended in nicely with the stonework behind.

It was almost a shame to desecrate such a brilliantly cunning disguise with a blatant sign that was a dead giveaway. If approaching the building from the street, that is. As the average user probably wouldn't, given that this loo was no drive-in!

And the appropriately yellow pedestrian signs on the footpath warned that this was a potential crossing point for approaching users.

I could only imagine how much more effective such a disguise would be in autumn, when apart from the sepia, the actual trees would match their mural counterparts.

I wondered how many people mistook it for the bus stop.

Which one's the bus stop? Semaphore street, Adelaide, South Australia

No matter.

I grabbed my camera and took off.

'Do you actually need to use the loo?' Pilchard called out behind me.

'No'

It won't be tasteless if I call it 'Semaphore Reflections', right?

'That's sick,' he murmured and headed for the bus stop. Quite rightly too.

Not everyone would accept that a lone man hanging around a public facility with binoculars in hand was actually birdwatching …

While his partner was inside taking photos ...

A symphony of sterile stainless steel, automated accessories and instructive communications, enhanced by the piped music softly playing to – I guess – assist one's performance, the glare of the interior made it difficult to effectively capture the ambience in the 10 minutes I had before the door would automatically open.

I couldn't help but wonder how the visually impaired users for whom the braille translations must be intended would actually find all the signs given their random scattering around the inordinately large interior.

More than a basin - this is a WORKSTATION!

How would one know, for example, that the soap/water/dryer basin inset wasn't a urinal? And whatever one thought it was, why would one then think to test for braille instructions along it's top??

And who could guess without looking how far below the toilet tissue touch button the tissue actually emerged???

That's if it DID emerge – I would have had more luck if I'd hit the button with a hammer, or a well-executed karate kick. Neither of which would have been remotely possible if I'd actually been seated on the loo.

I hoped the next user appreciated the toilet tissue I left behind …

Other than graffiti left by the imaginatively spelt 'Ebanie' (now preserved forever right here!), the only sign with NO braille accompaniment was the instruction for exiting the amenities in the case of power failure.

Grafitti - and non-Braille instructions!

Of course while the power was ON, everyone would know exactly where to find the large exit button at the LEFT of the right-opening door, wouldn't they?

But of course I could see whether or not the door was locked by the lights next to what surely must be (or why use it) the international 'lock' symbol – an open or closed padlock, although visually impaired users might have some difficulty given the absence of a) braille or b) raised surfaces.

And while I was unperturbed by the absence of a flush-button – these clever conveniences flush themselves, an action triggered by a) using the handbasin/urinal; or b) exiting the amenities – I wondered what an illiterate person or a child would make of it.

The visually impaired person would, of course, find the braille instruction to this effect while feeling around for the flush-button, right??

Door sign, Public Conveniences, Semaphore

While tempted to see what happened when the door opened of its own accord in 10 minutes, I returned to the street. After all, in a country with few public amenities outside parks, gardens, shopping centres, service stations and rest stops, this rare example of suburban street amenities next to a bus stop MUST be in demand! Or why build it there in the first place?

Surely by now there'd be a queue??

But the street was inexplicably empty.

After a few steps, however, the solution was clear.

Of course! The camouflage was working!!

Read More:

Adelaide, South Australia
South Australia
RED in Adelaide, South Australia
More Australian Scenic Public Toilets

The Carnamah Connection

noreply@blogger.com (Red Nomad OZ) — Mon, 04 Mar 2013 11:24:00 +0000

Carnamah Mural, Western Australia

Watch your coincidences, the writers manual said. Spread them out, with no more than three or you'll lose readers. So just WHAT was I supposed to do about all the Carnamah coincidences?

We arrived in Carnamah on Mum's birthday. Coincidence #1.

A distant relative I'd never met before was staying in the caravan park. Coincidence #2.

The Carnamah Historical Society president knew more about my background than I did. Coincidence #3!

Then there was … but wait! I'm getting ahead of myself.

Entrance to Carnamah, Western Australia

Being in Carnamah at all was no coincidence.

But although it was a) the heart of the fabled Western Australian wildflower country;b) a convenient distance from our previous camp site on the coast; and c) where my mother was raised, we approached it with some trepidation.

A selection of Carnamah Wildflowers, Western Australia

The last town we'd gone through wasn't particularly inviting (nothing will induce me to divulge its identity!), and there wasn't much about Carnamah in the tourist directories.

The new location 'lucky dip' worked both ways. Sometimes it was great. Sometimes it was OK. And sometimes it was crap.

Carnamah Streetscape

'We don't have to stay here, you know,' said Pilchard as we turned into the main street.

But my curiosity about this small town, the buckle in the Western Australian wheat belt where my mother spent her formative years, had increased the closer we got. We had to stay one night because THIS was where she'd walked three miles to school every day (whose parents didn't?). Where she lived on the family farm. Where she got her first job.

And where the wondrous wildflowers of the West of which I'd heard such glowing reports all my life actually were.

Nothing, but NOTHING comes close to the Western Australian wildflowers, I'd heard many times. Actually, EVERY time we saw any other wildflowers. Anywhere. Ever.

My nasty-girl side SO wanted to disprove that theory, I'd been almost disappointed to see what looked like 'Wildflower World' unfolding before me on the side of the road as we neared our destination.

But then we were driving down the main street and into the Carnamah Caravan Park. For a small town – hell, for ANYWHERE – this was a keeper. Neat layout, level sites (some drive-through), off the main road, new amenities, FREE WASHING MACHINE! Score!

Carnamah Bell (Darwinia carnamah)

Then to the Visitor Information Centre – and Score! The friendly helpful volunteer told us exactly where to find Mum's favourite – the Wreath Leschenaultia. AND the Carnamah Bell (Darwinia carnamah), exclusive to Carnamah! Score!!

Out on the street, Black Cockatoos circled over the pub, singing their sad, sweet song. But these sounded different. They WERE different! Carnaby's Black Cockatoo only found in Western Australia and a lifer for twitcher* Pilchard! Score!!

It almost made up for not finding a bakery.

And as we walked the town's botanic garden trail in successful search of the not-so-elusive Carnamah Bell, we agreed we'd lucked out. A family connection and a clutch of coincidences weren't the only reasons to explore this area.

Carnamah Farming Country, Western Australia

Mum spent her early years out of town on a farm. During the Depression of the 1930's, local farmers, including my grandfather, had petitioned the government for a school, then donated time and materials to construct a suitable building. My mother and her siblings were among the Billeroo school's first pupils, and my mother its last teacher.

I had to at least try to find it. Or what, if anything, was left of it.

The Carnamah Historical Society's excellent website and databases gave a lot of detail about the area and its people – including my grandfather and the farm. Supplementing the actual museum, the website included a virtual museum and blog – a mini-masterclass in historical data management (Score!).

Fields of Everlastings near Carnamah, Western Australia

And their blog had a post about wildflowers in the area. Yes, they looked mighty fine.

So why not spend an extra day here, and see the sights?

Downtown Carnamah, Western Australia

Back at the caravan park, the neighbouring van turned out to contain my grandmother's nephew, and therefore my 2^nd cousin once removed. He'd dropped in to Carnamah on his way home to see if anyone knew what had happened to my grandmother's family. He'd apparently asked at the Visitor Centre about 10 minutes after I'd been there, and coincidence blessed with the magic of small town connections had done the rest!

But so far, I was drawing a blank on the school location.

Tathra National Park Wildflowers, Western Australia

Pilchard and I had always planned to return home via Carnamah, but arriving on Mum's birthday was also a coincidence. When I rang later that night and told her where I was, she didn't believe it at first. That changed when I asked for directions to the school. But unfamiliar with the relatively new caravan park, she could only give me a rough idea.

But no matter. Already elated by the cousin coincidence and Carnaby's Cockatoo and Carnamah Bell sightings, I was beginning to feel my connection to Carnamah. Almost.

Wreath Leschenaultia - not fully out!

The next day, our hunt for the wild wreath leschenaultias took us the back way to Perenjori. Whatever you're thinking is the correct pronunciation probably isn't, but after channelling the vibe, I could rattle off 'P'renjsh'ree' like a local. AND put it firmly on the 'Wildflower World' map!

After being in Carnamah 24 hours, I'd already had several independent referrals to the president of the Historical Society, who apparently knew everything there was to know about the area. But I hadn't visited him at the historical museum. For a start, it wasn't going to be open during our visit. And I'm not particularly nostalgic, sentimental or family oriented, so did it really matter if I found the school or not?

Anyway, what would a total stranger know – or care – about my long-ago connection to Carnamah?

A sign - Pot of Gold at Carnamah Caravan Park, Western Australia

After a hard day on the wildflower trail, the sky darkened into a sign – of sorts. And another caravanner – who turned out to be no relation whatsoever – suggested that as she'd lived here, my mother would appreciate photos of the Tathra National Park wildflowers. Coincidence?

Actually, more like Score! After booking in for a 3^rd night, we discoveredthe national park's unspoiled, rain-enhanced beauty was a photographer's fantasy. Who knew wildflowers could look like this? And as another back road tour took us to Carnamah via Three Springs, another town I'd heard Mum mention, the canola fields glowed in the sunlight.

But, the Billeroo school location still eluded us. No one at the Visitor Centre knew where it was. But in an almost miraculous coincidence, the Historical Society Museum was open. And when I finally met president George Fowler, 'Coincidence' and 'Score' for once combined as I found my family's next farm neighbour; my uncle's best friend; and a motherlode of information about the area all rolled into one.

The Silver Bullet at the Billeroo School site, via Carnamah, Western Australia

And THAT coincidence made my Carnamah connection complete.

We came to Carnamah for several reasons. But now we've got several reasons to return!

Red and George at the Carnamah Museum, Western Australia

Read More:

Carnamah Historical Society Blog AND My guest post about my experience in Carnamah and with the Carnamah Historical Society
Carnamah Historical Society Website
Western Australian Wildflowers
More Carnamah Photos on Flickr
Carnamah

* Twitcher = Bird watcher. Don't ask me why ...