When I first moved to Granada over 7 years ago, I (and friends) noticed the very conspicuous lack of books, bookstores and libraries.  Nobody seemed to read.  Children had never seen a picture book.  The schools had no text books.  We realized that culturally, reading was hardly a priority, and financially, in this very poor country, books were a rare luxury.  Very little in-country publishing exists, and the imported books available, mostly in Managua, were expensive even by our standards.

A friend and I started collecting books to distribute among the children we knew.  As teachers, we were, and are very aware of the importance of reading for pleasure an integral part of education.  The early childhood development in our countries has a strong basis in listening to stories and being familiarized with picture books.  In fact, global research has shown time and again that the best students in the world, regardless of economies or cultures, all share a common trait:  they read for pleasure, and were read to as children.  The hours a student spends reading for pleasure, in or out of class, and being read to as a child, strongly correlates with later academic and economic success.  We realized that if Nicaragua was going to ever get out of its educational and economic rut, reading had to become a priority.  Reading for pleasure, that is.  And where does almost anyone in the developed world go for free books?  The lending library of course – practically non-existent in this country.

As we began to collect more and more books and lend them out to neighbors from our individual houses, we became aware of an extremely successful lending library in nearby San Juan Del Sur, a small fishing village on the Pacific Coast.  This library had been started by a friend, Jane Mirandette, and was one of the first lending libraries in all of Nicaragua.  We visited several times and were inspired to start our own small operation.

We began by hooking up with the local Ministry of Education and gave several workshops on the importance and the basics of reading to children for pleasure.  The teachers found it wonderful, but how could they apply this new knowledge without books?  So we began our library project by lending 5 books a week to the first grade classes.  They swapped the books among themselves in their respective schools so that the classes could hear a new book every day.

We asked all our friends, and all tourists coming down to bring or send Spanish books.  We wondered how we could ever collect enough books for a city of over 120,000 people.  But the books kept rolling in.  Eventually someone offered their very large front sala (living room) as a free space and we opened our first actual lending library 4 years ago.  Nobody in Granada had ever seen a lending library, so this was culturally very strange.  All our local friends, including teachers, Ministry of Education educators, and library association personnel told us we would lose all our books to thievery if we dared to loan them to children.  The opposite happened and our return rate has continuously rivaled North America’s.

Since then we have grown to 3 physical locations, and have installed mini-libraries in many of the local public schools and outlying rural communities.  We routinely train teachers and community leaders.  Our school lending program has expanded to over 25 schools.  We have probably collected close to 10,000 books over this time, though many of these have been given away to local schools and libraries.  We have connected to other similar NGOs (non-government organizations) in the area, such as Building New Hope (www.buildingnewhope.org)  and Libros Para Ninos for mutual support.

All of this development really happened quite organically.  We thought we would have trouble getting books down, but as soon as we put the word out, they literally came flooding in.  We have always managed to find someone to donate space for the central lending library itself as well as the two reading centers we run in the city.  We manage to employ a full time librarian and several assistants.  Despite the fact that nobody on our board has experience with fund-raising, we always manage to get enough grants and donations to keep on going.

The only advice I would offer is to really keep the goal in mind, maintain a strong commitment, keep organizing as you grow, and communicate with everyone you know.  I strongly believe that it was our passion alone that spurred this project along.  Now our main problem is keeping up with our expansion.

Visit us at www.buildingnewhope.org/puedo-leer.html.  And feel free to write us if you want to start a similar project.

In this Interview with Amy Bushnell who lives in Granada, Nicaragua, we discuss the expat life challenges and successes of being an entrepreneur and working overseas….Enjoy!

A couple years ago I began taking art lessons (oil painting) from my friend, Amy Bushnell.  I’ve been very impressed with both her teaching, and with how well the art studio/gallery has been doing.  Amy is a wonderful painter and teacher.  Many of her students who were complete beginners when they started, myself included, are now actually selling their work.  I interviewed Amy so that she can share her expertise with others.  The gallery has become an integral part of the community at large, including both expats and locals.

What inspired you to open a studio?

I went to a studio back home (in the U.S.)  for many years, run by Andy Braitman.  He had a large space in a warehouse and offered many classes.  Fees included instruction and all materials.  It was a great environment.  Students could work at their own pace and receive as much or as little instruction as they wanted.  I learned more from him than anyone – he was a master.  So that was my inspiration, and I purposely modeled the studio after Andy’s.

Can you talk about the process of starting your studio in Granada?

I bought all the materials, had easels made, and then started the studio out of the front sala (great room) of our home here in Granada.  Soon people were coming, just by word of mouth.   I operated out of the house for the entire first year of operation.  Then, a friend offered me space in a large colonial house which was being used for a boutique, property management offices and massage, and that’s where we are now.  It’s a wonderful space:  excellent light, perfect location right off the main square with lots of walk-by traffic.  I don’t pay rent, just commissions off sales and the owner gets free classes.  I do pay to keep the space maintained and in good repair.

Just like Andy’s studio, fees cover all the materials except canvases, which can vary greatly in cost.  I offer instruction in oils, acrylics and watercolors.

How do you promote the studio?

I usually get new students by word of mouth, and some find me on our website. www.nicaragua-guide.com People come generally from the U.S. or Canada, and Costa Rica.  The operation is still small, with a core group of about 15 students, mostly residents here.  Some folks are here only part of the year.  We also have volunteers who offer to do free art classes for the children in the neighborhood during their vacation times.  Occasionally we have a guest artist who will give a special workshop in his or her expertise.

What about children´s classes?

I occasionally receive donations of money and/or materials so then I can offer free children´s classes or provide scholarships for those who can´t afford lessons.  Other children of expats or middle class families pay for the classes.  We have one very talented teenager referred to us by a local private school run by a small NGO and he has a patron who is paying for all his classes and canvases.  We hope to eventually send him to art school in the U.S. as he´s very talented and serious.  I´m preparing him with portfolio work.  I did the same for another talented teenager so she could enter an art high school in Atlanta.  They were very impressed with her portfolio.

Where do you get materials?

There are several art supply stores in Managua, and we have the easels and canvases made here in Granada.  Prices for paints, etc., are comparable to the U.S. so it´s expensive, and not all brands and types are available here.  Brushes are of inferior quality and the pencils are terrible, and you never know what is going to be available from one week to the next, like everything else here.  Local artists actually use house paint.

Can you talk about the gallery and sales aspect of the studio?

Shortly after opening in our new location, due to the high volume of walk-by traffic, we started having small evening events to promote and sell our work.  Every few months we have an event with cocktails, wine and appetizers, and sometimes we have live music as well.  We also had posters made of  the paintings so tourists can buy a very portable, affordable  piece of art.  Our clients have included local expats, tourists, folks from Managua, and locals.  A hotel recently commissioned a number of pieces.  We ship anywhere – I just sent a large framed painting to Dubai.  The boutique “Öle” in the same building here refers clients to us, and vice versa.  We´ve also just started Granada house tours which meet here at the gallery.

Any advice for someone who wants to start an art studio/gallery in their new community?

Sure – be realistic.  You´re not in San Francisco or Paris so you´re not going to get those high prices.  Many of our pieces are priced between $150-700.  Also, you can´t always get the exact materials you´re looking for.  The buildings here are very open so there is a lot of dust, bats and insects to contend with.  There are always potential art students.  I only charge $5 per 3-hour class here and that is realistic for this community as many people are on limited incomes and live frugally.  So it´s not about making a pile of money.  It´s my passion and it´s fun.  I have great students and I get to paint every day in a beautiful, tropical environment.   I believe that anyone can learn to paint and will get a lot of enjoyment from it.

Do you have questions about starting an Art Gallery in your area?  Let me know and I’ll see if Amy can help you out.

Do you have similar stories to share about the Art World and getting a business started?  We’d love to hear from you.

If you are interested in more “Expat Life” stories check out Starting a Health Club

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

2. GOOD, RELIABLE UTILITY SERVICES This would include high-speed internet that always works, decent phone service, electricity that doesn’t shut off without warning and isn’t run by the local mafia, water – ditto.

3. CLEANLINESS I needn’t go into great detail here. Everything is just a hell of a lot cleaner. Stepping in horse or pig manure just never seems to be a problem. Nobody’s throwing their garbage in the street or lake. There are rules about hygiene and cleanliness which just don’t exist where I live.

4. CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS High quality windows that actually fit the wall space without gaps, quality doors and cabinetry, walls, tiling, house systems.

5. AVAILABILITY OF SOLAR AND WIND POWER

6. INFRASTRUCTURE Good roads, bridges, high speed freeways, etc.

7. GENERAL EDUCATIONAL LEVELS Lots of highly educated folks to talk to, though I’m not really impressed with the general educational levels in the U.S. However, people do read and there are fabulous libraries everywhere.

8. OTHER: NPR (National Public Radio) or whatever they call it these days, public TV stations, recycling, CSAs, good vitamins, bookstores.

It’s a lot! But I’ve been here 7 years now and am happily getting along without most of the above. I have to say that I still haul down things like supplements, and organic seeds, nuts and spices. Most of the rest I live without and it’s probably good for me not to be surrounded by great stuff to buy. Maybe you have your own list, but I hope this helps anyone considering a move.  Retiring overseas is a great option, but you have to consider what you´re giving up as well.

I interviewed my friend Warren Ogden, who started the first full service health club and wellness center, PURE, here in Granada, Nicaragua (www.purenica.com). PURE has become a truly transforming presence in this community. Residents and tourists alike are extremely grateful to Warren for providing spa services, a fully equipped gym, and a large variety of classes: yoga, Pilates, aerobics, dance. Warren himself is an experienced yoga teacher and personal trainer, and an excellent role model for healthy living.

Can you talk about the process of starting PURE?

I’m not a retiree so I did need some way to make a living. And this is what I’m most interested in: health, yoga, nutrition and fitness. It’s what I really like to do. We started in the front room of my house with one-on-one personal training and healthy meals to-go. I happened to already own a decrepit, large old building so I started fixing it up over the course of a year. So the business evolved slowly, which was a positive factor in our success, as key decisions and plans could be well thought-out.

Did you do any marketing research beforehand?

I had already lived here for a while and the need was obvious, just from talking to people. A full service wellness center would be a brand-new business here with no competition to speak of. I did a survey with interested friends, mainly residents, to determine price-points as we deal with a wide variety of demographics here. Our first clients were fairly well-off expats as they had the knowledge, education and desire for these services, as well as the means. Now, we also service middle class Nicaraguan locals (poor by our standards) who might only pay $5/month for a limited package. Tourists pay the most as they are here only for a short period of time, so aren’t doing memberships or discount packages.

What services does PURE currently offer?

We have classes in yoga, Pilates, aerobics, dance, and kickboxing; one-on-one training with qualified personal trainers; spa services such as massage, shiatsu, pedicures, manicures; juices and snacks; and a fully equipped gym with weights and machines.

What are the benefits of opening a health club/wellness center in a developing country, compared to North America?

The cost of establishing and running this type of business is only a fraction of what it would cost in the U.S. So the risk is far less. And, in the US, you’re competing with big franchises like Bally and other 24-hour clubs who can offer very cheap prices based on their volume. So unless your niche is very specialized and different you really can’t compete. Also, in Nicaragua, big capital layouts and chains just don’t exist – foreigners are less likely to invest here.

What are some of the challenges you’ve faced?

Finding and building gym equipment was a challenge. This is also related to the challenge of finding competent trades people and professionals. Standards are much lower than what we are accustomed to, and there is no standardized education, training, or certification in most trades. Also, there is no quality control or oversight for any trade. The process is very much trial and error. Since very few complex machines are produced here, building good weightlifting machines was difficult. For electrical equipment like elliptical machines, we had to import from abroad. Even yoga mats are non-existent so I’ve had to lug down hundreds of pounds of mat material from the U.S.

How does Nicaragua compare to Costa Rica in this type of industry (health clubs, wellness center, yoga, etc.)?

Pilates, yoga, meditation, etc, here are mainly for foreigners. There has been a big transition in Costa Rica over the last 20 years or so, and they are about 15 years ahead of Nicaragua in every respect. Here, it’s all new.

What marketing and promotion do you use?

We have a website and lots of promo around town. We have a very good presence in all the upscale hotels with fliers in reception areas and every room, and we offer gym services to their guests for free. These guests always end up buying other services such as massages, classes, health drinks. We are listed in the Lonely Planet guide and are in contact with Moon and Footprint for their next editions.

What about profit margins and return on investment?

I estimate it will be four years before I break even and pay off all starting costs. Also, I’m continually investing more in new services and equipment. There has definitely been a positive cash flow over the course of each year. This is not, however, a way for someone to make loads of money.

Any advice to would-be entrepreneurs who want to go into this business?

• Learn the language of course
• Budget 10-20% more for unforeseen snafus. There’s not as much information here as at home, and there are bound to be a lot more surprises.
• Notice what locals do and do that. If they sit out in front of their houses every day from 5-7, you do it, too. You’ll be better received and more in touch with the community. Relationships with neighbors are important and you’ll adjust more quickly to the pace of life here. Your life will be more sustainable and pleasant if you can adapt. And, if you can’t adapt then go home.
• Realize that in Nicaragua, and probably some other developing countries, there is sometimes an attitude of entitlement and expectation that you as the “rich gringo” should simply subsidize the poor. In any project, or as an employer, make sure you are empowering and educating people to stand on their own and do their own work rather than just giving something for nothing.

See www.purenica.com for more information.

Do you have similar stories to share about getting a business started abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

When I tell people I live in Nicaragua they look at me like I’m crazy. May as well have said I live on Mars. Yet, there are more and more North Americans moving here every day. And who are these lunatics? You’d be surprised at the assortment: aid workers/volunteers, students, retirees, academics, families with young children, entrepreneurs of every age, republicans, democrats, communists, socialists, capitalists and libertarians, to name a few. In other words, people from all walks of life are discovering new lives outside of their native country.

So what is life like here in Nicaragua? I live in the small colonial city of Granada, which is very picturesque and quaint. One and two story multicolored houses line the residential streets and building laws are quite strict in regards to preserving colonial style and ambience, so there are no high rises or ugly concrete block structures. On my street there are very few cars. Instead, horse carts and horse carriages, and people walking and selling their wares on foot or bicycle make up the majority of traffic. Occasionally I see someone walking their pet pig. From my second floor bedroom which looks down on a large tropical garden, I can see the Mombacho volcano, and from my back window the beautiful cupola of the grand cathedral in the Central Square is surrounded by trees and red tile rooftops. Yet, despite the old style environment, amenities such as cable TV, WIFI, and modern appliances are readily available.

After building a house 6 years ago, I started renting out rooms for some income, and then bought a small house to rent out long term. When things go well, that covers all of my daily expenses, which amount to about $1,100 per month. Other endeavors I have pursued here include volunteer work, teaching yoga, translating, guiding university service learning groups, working on websites, writing, painting and art work… and plenty of rest, travel, relaxation and recreation. Many of my friends have businesses, including import/export, restaurants, gyms, art studios, web design, property management, and of course there are those who have done very well buying and selling real estate. Almost everyone I know, working or not, contributes in some way to the community, as poverty is a fact of life here.

Here is a typical day for me, though I have to point out that no one day is necessarily the same as any other. After feeding my pets, working out and having breakfast, I might spend the morning painting in our nearby art gallery studio. Then, lunch at home, or at a nearby café with a friend. In the afternoon, I’ll probably spend a few hours on the computer writing, raising money for our library project or working on my websites. Then it’s an hour free and I’m off to the lake to enjoy a cold drink with friends. The restaurant overlooks the water, dotted with its many little islands. Distant volcanoes fill the horizon and the overhanging palm trees and flowers frame an idyllic picture of local fishermen on their simple boats. Afterwards, need to spend some time meeting with our Board of Directors for the lending library we founded. A weekday evening is usually quiet. I walk my dog down to the lake, make some international calls via Skype, cook a dinner with fresh produce from the market, water the garden and probably hit the sack early. Weekends there are plenty of things to do: someone seems to always be having a party or small dinner, there may be music at a local club, and occasionally we head to Managua to see an opera or concert.

One of the reasons I chose Granada was its walkability. I don’t have or want a car, though most of my gringo friends do. I walk everywhere and at night might take a taxi, which is 50 cents door to door anywhere within the city. The city center is only a few minutes from the house, as is the main market, and there are many cafes, restaurants and shopping areas nearby.

There are plenty of negative aspects to life in a developing country, and for this reason, such a life is definitely not for everyone. Most significantly, there is great poverty and a fair amount of begging here. Even for those who try and contribute to efforts in education, nutrition, health, micro-lending, and housing, the conditions can be overwhelming and disturbing. And then there are those who simply ignore or steer clear of the poverty, head to the nearest bar and spend their days half soused. Other minuses include electric and water cuts, incredible bureaucracy and disorganization, lousy roads with very large potholes, and, obviously, the language barrier, conquered by some and complained about by many. Well, you can either laugh or cry, as one friend says, but when you start getting angry it’s time to travel. In any case, life is always interesting and I hope the daily challenges here are at least staving off Alzheimer’s for a while.

Because I have run into so many travelers here who seem to be keenly interested in the prospect of living somewhere outside their country, I decided to write a guide to help people choose the right place for their particular needs and lifestyles, guide them through some of the steps to reach their goal, and avoid some of the mistakes others have made before them.

Do you have similar stories to share about expat life and moving abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

Interview with my friend “J”

I interviewed my friend “J” as she probably has more experience with the Nicaraguan medical system than anyone.  She has Polycystic Kidney Disease and is waiting for a kidney transplant, so she’s had to have all sorts of tests, biopsies, etc., and also has a husband with Type 1 (childhood) Diabetes, who has required Emergency Room services more than once.  I once asked her why she didn’t return to the U.S. in light of all the medical requirements, and she said “Are you kidding?  It’s much better and easier here!”  So I thought I’d interview her for my blog and get her experiences and thoughts.

What kind of medical services have you been receiving, and how have the service, quality and standards been?

All of my tests and appointments have been very quick, and the care is so personalized.  I can easily arrange any test I need, including MRIs, and other high-tech services, within a week.  I’ve had every kind of blood and urine test, MRIs, ultrasounds, radiology, biopsy, etc.   Full batteries of all kinds of tests and very full check-ups are easily scheduled and arranged, and are very comprehensive. The only kind of testing/treatment not available in Nicaragua is nuclear medicine.

The private labs, especially those in Managua, are all clean, and they meet first world standards.  The equipment is new.  The doctors are highly trained and most have done residencies in other countries such as the U.S., Canada, France, Mexico, etc.  Many, if not most, are bi-lingual in English.  And, they spend time with you.  An appointment is 40 minutes, not 5 minutes.  They are not heavily over-scheduled and rushed, like the docs in the U.S.  You sometimes have to wait for an appointment due to an emergency, but the wait is never unreasonably long.  And, the doctors always give you their private cell phones so they’re very accessible.

The private hospital (and lab) I usually frequent is Vivian Pellas Metropolitano in Managua.  It’s new and immaculate.   When I have to stay overnight, I get a very nice private room and the food is excellent.  The nurses are RNs and are not only competent, but very warm and friendly as well.   They can arrange a translator if you don’t speak Spanish.

What about prices and insurance coverage?

 Here are some sample prices at the high end of the scale, i.e. Vivian Pellas hospital, which is the newest and most expensive in the country:

• Blood Tests range: . . . . . . . . . . $5-10 each
• Ultrasounds range: . . . . . . . . .  $40-50
• MRI: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$450
• Surgical Anesthesia, 3 hr: . . . .  $120
• Comprehensive Cardio Profile:    $80
• Electrocardiogram: . . . . . . . . .  $20
• Echocardiogram: . . . . . . . . . . . $75

I have a very comprehensive (U.S.) Blue Cross/Blue Shield policy, which actually covers all my tests, treatments, and prescription drugs here.  The Vivian Pellas lab is accredited by Blue Cross/Blue Shield.  For prescription drugs, the original prescription has to be written by a US doctor for coverage, so I just take the prescription to a pharmacy and buy what I need.  Technically you don’t need a prescription to buy any kind of medicine here, and you can buy it by the pill rather than the package.  Medicare does not cover services outside of the U.S., but if you have secondary insurance, they will often cover international treatments and medicines and you can deal with them directly for coverage (unlike the U.S., where you have to deal with Medicare first).  Of course, every policy is different.

If you live in Nicaragua, you can become a member of the Vivian Pellas Hospital for around $15/month, and you receive discounts on many tests and services.  The longer you’re a member, the higher the discount.  This is a good option for people who have no insurance.  Interviewer’s Note:  I’m a member of this hospital and my emergency laparoscopic appendix surgery, including ER services, meds, 4 nights in a private room, follow-up, cost $2,000 instead of $3,000.   So the $15/month is very good value.

What about getting the medicine you need?

It’s available here with or without prescription.  Prices vary.  Many are less expensive, and some are just as expensive as the U.S.   I can also get medicines that are not available in the U.S. yet.  For example, the medicine I take for osteoporosis is European and doesn’t yet have FDA approval at home.  I think it’s better than what’s available in the U.S.  As I said before, my insurance covers any U.S. physician prescribed medicine.  What I can’t get here, I have sent from the U.S.

How has your husband’s care been?  (he has childhood Diabetes)

We’ve had very good doctors and the Emergency Room care has also been excellent with no waiting.  When specialists are needed, they are called in immediately.  As I said, his doctors are accessible, available and we have their cell phone numbers – they actually do return our calls.  I find the doctors here to be much more caring and available.

Have you had any other medical experiences here that you want to comment on?

 I’ve had excellent dentistry here as well, especially in Managua.  You can find dentists with the latest equipment, and specialists such as periodontists, odontologists, etc.  The prices don’t even compare; they are so much cheaper.  You can easily get implants, bridges, crowns, etc., in addition to routine services such as cleaning and fillings. (Interviewer’s note:  I’ve had crowns for $150-200, fillings $25 each, checkups and cleaning $20).

My husband had laser eye surgery here and this experience, too, was excellent.  The eye surgeon had the latest equipment and the results and follow-up were very good.

Are there any medical situations where you would choose to be in the U.S. rather than Nicaragua?

I wouldn’t even think of going back to the U.S. for medical care unless there was something very specific that I couldn’t get done here; for example, transplants or open-heart surgery, or nuclear medicine (Open heart surgery is done here but not as frequently as in the U.S.  The hospital Salud Integral in Managua began doing open-heart surgery in 2004 and to date has performed just over 100 operations.)

Interviewer’s Note:  Keep in mind that Nicaragua is the second poorest country in the Americas, after Haiti, yet private medical care is very good.  Medical services and hospitals are even more developed in countries like Costa Rica and Panama, but prices are also higher.  The Vivian Pellas hospital referred to here is about as modern and efficient as any that you’ll find in Latin America.

Do you have similar stories to share about expat life and living abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

I asked my friend Darrell Bushnell to talk about his work in the community and his life in Granada, Nicaragua:

With the sun rising over the lake, the green parrots begin awakening. A large family of them has nested in the roof of our colonial home in Granada, Nicaragua. Their chattering attracts more parrots from the fruit trees of our neighbors. Granada is known for its many colonial homes painted from a palette of bright pastel colors and lies on the western shore of Lake Cocibolca, one of the largest fresh-water lakes in the world. Many of the expatriates here refer to Granada as the city of doors since most homes have massive wooden doors which seems appropriate considering the walls of the homes are often three feet thick, probably due to the many years of resisting pirate attacks. You may open a door and enter a hovel of a poor family or open a similar door to enter a restored colonial home fit for a king.

Our own home is a relatively new, restored colonial built over 150 years ago. We like it because it is on a corner facing the lake winds and it has a large garage which is rather rare here. While the bedrooms are enclosed, our living area is a large patio that wraps around the pool and the courtyard. Even the kitchen is outdoors though under a roof.

My wife and I had traveled to many countries, read all of the living overseas books and we knew we would retire eventually overseas but in early 2006 we decided we did not want to wait until the normal retirement age. Since we would be leaving the USA earlier than expected we had to find a country with a low cost of living and there had to be opportunities since neither of us was ready for the rocker. Many of the countries of South and Central America attracted us but we kept coming back to Nicaragua. Remembering we only had one life to live; we sold everything in Charlotte, North Carolina, moved to Nicaragua and never looked back.

One of the oldest rules in retiring overseas is to live in your chosen location for several months before buying anything. We ignored the rule, bought a house on the Pacific Coast, spent four months watching the surf and became thoroughly bored. We sold the house and moved to Granada where there were more expats and many more activities. Different strokes for different folks!

Many of the expats here are very community oriented. I am probably more active now then when we lived in the states. I work with the first lending library, Puedo Leer, in Granada where we try to bring the love of reading to Nicaraguan children. There are so few books here including very few school text books. Among library activities I help deliver books to 21 schools, started a conference of similar organizations, collect books and I write a newsletter for them. Other activities include:

• Working with Amigos de la Policia to improve relations between community and police.
• Show a movie every Friday night for the kids and neighbors – we do this outdoors by projecting it against the neighbor’s house.
• Every few weeks I rent a boat and take the neighbor kids fishing.
• Could not find a good informative website on living in Nicaragua so wrote and implemented www.nicaragua-guide.com. Includes over 300 pages of diaries about life here.
• The website brings in a lot of enquiries from people thinking of moving to Nicaragua so I’m spending considerable time answering questions.
• Found sponsors for eight soccer teams
• Help other organizations with newsletters and foundation efforts.
• Teach English Sundays to neighbors
• Teach English Wednesdays at a local school and helping them build a library.
• Trying to improve the image of Nicaragua to the outside world.

After almost four years we are still enjoying life here. All of the restaurants are within a short walk and the central park is only four blocks away. Anyone living in Latin America knows the central park is the heart of every city. We have music concerts, horse parades, caring neighbors and a lot of friends (both native and expats). The main airport is 45 minutes away and the ocean beach is 1 ½ hours away. Did I mention miles of beach with no one in sight? Vendors come to our door selling everything from fruit to seafood. Our only regret is that we waited so long to make the move. My background is financial operations and corporate management so I admit I sometimes think about getting a job or starting a business but the moment of insanity usually passes.

ATMs and Internet make living overseas much easier now though we do sometimes miss family and friends back home but it is just two and ½ hours to Miami or Houston. We are actually closer to our family here than if we lived in Los Angeles. We have no desire to return to living in the states.

This is not Cancun and there are some negatives. It is a different culture and things occur that I simply do not understand. Nicaragua is a poor country and the poverty is pervasive. The locals think we are wealthy which brings in a lot of requests for assistance. The politics become tiresome at times but I was also critical of President Bush. After four years I thought I would be more fluent in Spanish but part of the reason is I’m much older now, remember less and more crotchety. I will continue trying.

One of the hardest things upon arriving here had nothing to do with Nicaragua. We were supposedly retiring and suddenly I was with my wife 24/7. In the states we were both workaholics so we did not see each other that much. Being together so much created a lot of friction as we learned to live together again. We constantly must be careful to respect each other’s privacy and you must have your own projects and lives. Yes, I know there are couples that do everything together but that’s not us though we depend a great deal more now on each other’s opinion. See, you do get wiser as you grow older!

Since I am now older you probably want some sage advice from me on living overseas. OK! Live in several locations of the country you decide upon. Nicaragua has mountains, beaches, lakes, valleys and major cities. This means you can choose from cool climates to hot climates, farms to cities or waterfront to valleys. When we first arrived we were sure we wanted to live on a beach away from everyone else. We found we preferred living in the city and just visit the beach when the mood hits. Now we’re talking about building a beach home with some other couples since we could never use it more than a week a month.

Learn at least some of the local language. Part of the reason for living overseas is to learn a new culture, and language is a major component of culture. Besides, it is fun, the locals appreciate the effort and you never really stop learning until you are ready for the rocking chair.

Be ready for some frustrations. It is not your country and not your culture. You are the guest here and you cannot demand your rights. Seemingly simple things in the states may be more difficult here and the rules are different. Relish your new life!

See Darrell’s excellent website about everything Nicaragua:  www.nicaragua-guide.com

Do you have similar stories to share about expat life or moving abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

If you are interested in more “Expat Life” stories check out Starting a Health Club

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

My Friend Nancy:  Hotelier, Real Estate Agent, Property Manager

Granada, Nicaragua

I interviewed my friend Nancy Bergman, an extraordinary entrepreneur and hotelier here in Granada, Nicaragua.  At one point Nancy owned and managed four full time businesses:  two thriving hotels, a property management agency and a real estate agency.  In this interview, we focused on her experience starting and running the Casa San Francisco, one of the first boutique hotels of Granada.

How did the Casa San Francisco get started?

My sister and I came to Granada in January 2002 and the city was just exploding – a real estate boom.  We initially didn’t want to start a business together but we realized that combining resources would be the smartest way to go.  I had experience in the travel industry, in hospitality, decorating, and had successfully run several different businesses in the States, as had my sister, Terry.  And, we both had extensive travel experience.  Our Peace Corps experience seemed especially relevant to this environment and we realized we had a lot of skills to offer the community.

Our trip was very short and we were actually headed to the coast, but in the few days we were in Granada, we started looking at real estate and getting ideas.  We were staying in a very lousy hotel, and the few good ones were full, so there was an obvious need for good hotels.  But, we had no concrete plans at all, and everything seemed to flow and come together organically.  When we looked at the property (which is the current site of the hotel) we just realized it was a perfect place for a charming boutique hotel and we started playing around with design ideas.  Renovating this large colonial house and turning it into a hotel was a huge renovation and building project.

We knew very little about how to do things here and the few builders we did hear of in town were all busy.  We hired a young Nicaraguan (whom we eventually replaced) as our builder, and a good friend, an architect from San Francisco, was kind enough to do our plans and drawings and we went from there.

We learned everything by doing it and by asking around.  We had to find the best places to buy paint, tiles, have furniture made, everything.  We didn’t even realize at first that we needed building permits, but soon found out and obtained these.  Finally, after some problems with our first builder, we were able to get a very reputable contractor who finished the first phase of the hotel.

How long did all this take?

From start to finish, we were able to open in 15 months with four rooms, a restaurant and bar.  Six months later we added five more rooms and the swimming pool.  We also finished my sister Terry’s house, which has several more rooms that serve as an annex for the hotel as it’s right around the corner.

How did you market the hotel, and how long did it take to be profitable?

 Initially we advertised on travel websites, but our biggest marketing campaign was word of mouth.  People traveling to and from Costa Rica spread the word.  Also, at that time, there were very few similar boutique hotels in Granada so we were filling a specific, needed niche.  It took about a year and a half to get into the guidebooks and after that we were continuously full.

To what do you attribute your success?

Our hotel is charming, attractive, and comfortable and the atmosphere is very relaxed.  The service is good so people want to come back.  The staff is trained to be friendly and helpful.  The location is excellent as well – an easy walk to the center, but not too close to be noisy or close to heavy traffic.

What are some of the obstacles you’ve faced as a hotelier here?

 There are cultural differences, which we have to be sensitive to, especially when dealing with staff.  We try to maintain North American standards and staff who have no personal experience staying in a similar type of hotel have to be trained accordingly.  Physical maintenance of the property is challenging due to low quality materials and the tropical climate.  We have to deal with water and electricity shutdowns as well.  We had to learn the legal system and requirements for operating a hotel and restaurant, and register with the proper offices.

Is it easier or harder to start and run a business in Nicaragua (compared to the U.S.)?

 I think it’s much easier here than in North America, because:

• There are fewer laws and requirements;
• Initial capital investment is much less;
• The fees are less – for example, a liquor license is $20 and zoning consists of asking neighbors if they object to your business;
• Despite the stereotypes people have, we’ve never had to bribe anyone to get the right permits, pay taxes, register the property, get health certificates.  Everything has been on the up and up.

On the down side, you really have to learn everything as you go, and figure out how the system works here.  But you can easily learn by asking for help –there have been plenty of Nicaraguans and foreigners with experience who helped us learn the ropes.  It’s also important to obtain residency so you can get a bank account, credit card access, and run your business.

Any advice?

Learn the language, that’s very important for communicating with staff, clients, suppliers and contractors.  It’s important to be culturally sensitive, contribute to the community and be open to the needs of your clients and your staff.

Get help when you need it and hire consultants who are professional and will help you learn the ropes, and come recommended.  Hire good lawyers for legal matters and beware of the first person who befriends you as there are scams.

Observe and listen to your clients.  Based on client needs, we started a small tour agency for day trips in and outside of Granada.  Also based on client requests, I started a real estate agency, and opened a second hotel on nearby Laguna Apoyo, as most of our guests wanted to go there and many wanted to spend a couple nights.

Anywhere you go there is always room for more businesses.  I often give talks at seminars for relocating abroad or living in Central America, and despite the development over the last several years, I can think of 20 businesses that would fulfill a niche market here.

Also, you should have enough capital to see you through the initial phases of your business.  You’re not going to be immediately profitable.  It took us a year to break even and a couple of years to be earning good profits.

Interviewer’s comments:  Nancy and Terry’s hotels are truly charming and their staffs are well known here for their high standards and caring service.  See their websites for more information:
www.hotelcasasanfrancisco.com
www.sansimian.com
www.casagranadaproperties.com

I had always wanted to visit Patzcuaro, one of Mexico’s “magical towns” high in the mountains of Michoacan, the state touted by Mexicans as the most beautiful in all the country.  After my friends built their house there, I had no excuse to wait any longer.  Patzcuaro was actually one of the places I had once planned to visit as a potential place to relocate many years ago, but I got waylaid and ended up elsewhere.  So I was doubly excited to finally get there.

Happily, Patzcuaro did not disappoint.  Built on the remains of an historic P’urepecha town, the colonial city retains the ambience of an ancient culture.  The two central plazas, Plaza Chica and Plaza Grande, are impressively clean and well manicured.  Cafes, food stalls and restaurants open on to the parks and are always lively and full of (mainly) busy, middle-class locals.  The “gringo” presence here is barely felt at all, though Patzcuaro gets its fair share of tourists.  The full time resident extranjero population seems negligible, though I’ve been assured it is indeed growing.  Striking red and white old colonial buildings line the steep, narrow cobblestone streets and the ubiquitous stone churches and little plazas open on to delightful courtyards with well-appointed artisan shops.  Slugging up a hill always pays off in a spectacular view of the city and its lake below, or the surrounding lush, sparkling green countryside with its rolling hills and forests.

My friends built a three story, three-bedroom house very close to the center of town, in the historic district.    The rooftop terrace looks out on the whole city, with expansive views in three directions.  All told, it had cost around 200 Gs, but they now have a potential moneymaker vacation rental, and a very comfortable, pretty living space.  In fact the house was already rented out for future dates before it had even been finished.  So there seems to be great demand in this area.  I spent a couple mornings looking at real estate and based on what we saw, figured I could probably purchase a small, fairly central lot and build a 1,000-1,300 sq ft house for 100-150 Gs, if I really looked hard and negotiated.

The little colonial villages around Patzcuaro are very picturesque and sweet, and most are famous for a particular craft.  For example, Santa Clara is a copper paradise.  I didn’t even think I liked copper until I got there and was blown away at the remarkable artistry.  We agreed that it was worth building a house in Patzcuaro solely for the pleasure of filling it with copper ware from Sta Clara.

Well, that’s Mexico for you – quality handicrafts and art of every sort to die for.  This locale is certainly no exception.

Here are my Pros and Cons of living/retiring in Patzcuaro.   Pro’s are:

• Cost of living and price of real estate still reasonable
• Charming, scenic city that’s not too big and not too small
• Good opportunities for businesses that will be needed if more expats come:  art galleries, translation service, ethnic restaurants, etc.
• Proximity to Morelia (45 minutes) and the international airport, a city of 1 million that is a Unesco World Heritage Site in its own right, with lots to see, plenty of stores and goods that might not be available in Patzcuaro.
• Proximity to beautiful countryside for hiking, horseback riding and other outdoor activities.
• Very, very safe city – low crime rates, burglaries almost unheard of.
• Temperate climate, though a little on the cool side for some.  December and January can be downright chilly, though it doesn’t snow.
• Not too “gringo-ized”; retains its strong Mexican culture.
• Surrounded by lovely villages, easily accessible by public transportation.
• Good walking town.  You don’t really need a car if you don’t want one.
• Good infrastructure and services:  excellent roads, reliable water/electricity/phone/cable/internet, public transportation excellent and taxis reasonable.

Con’s:

• Not a large gringo population so it might be hard to meet people.  And you’d better speak Spanish. (of course, this could be considered a Pro, not a Con)
• Not much to do at night
• Limited selection of restaurants
• The lake is dirty and needs a serious cleaning.  There is some talk of a project in the works.

I just can’t think of any others!   All in all, Patzcuaro rates very high on my list of potential living/retirement/real estate investment locations, and as I write this, I’m seriously considering putting some money down on a lot.

Do you have similar stories to share about expat life or moving abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!

A Few Days in San Miguel de Allende (SMDA), Mexico

I hadn’t been here in about 12 years, so I wondered whether today’s San Miguel would live up to my somewhat exaggerated memories of this most magical of cities, and I have to say that despite the increase in traffic, gringos, and prices, it did not disappoint.  The architecture and views here attract artists and photographers from all over the world.  Breathtaking surprises loom around every new corner and at the top of each steep cobblestone street.  The climate is practically perfect year-round.  I never tire of walking and climbing, climbing and walking, to find the next perfect photo opportunity.  The main church (La Parroquia) in the central garden (El Jardin) might be one of the most impressive small churches in the world.  Lit up at night, you feel transported to some unearthly, sparkling fairyland.

But, come on, $15 for a medium sized pizza in Mexico is a bit much!  Really, this city seems as expensive as any southern California chi-chi town.  $50 bought me a room in an aging dump of a hotel and the rest of my money burnt through my pocket in a record-breaking blaze.  However we did see the virtuoso violinist Timothy Fain in a Carnegie Hall-worthy performance featuring the premier of a new Phillip Glass work – for $20.  No complaints there.  The night before that we saw a local, professional production of a Tennessee Williams play and listened to some excellent live music while dining at one of SMDA’s many fine restaurants.  My daily life in comparatively culture-less Granada began to pale in comparison.

Because I knew this city was not in my real-estate range and I had no intention of ever investing here, I didn’t do any serious shopping around.  However, I talked to many folks who had built, renovated, and bought at various times over the last 20 years.  Any real estate around the historic center is, as expected, incredibly expensive.  We’re talking half a million and up, even for small houses.  Outlying areas still apparently have some “deals” (new 1 bedroom condos for $150 Gs and up, for example), but tend to be 20 minutes or more walking distance from the center, and a steep climb back home.

With the influx of so many gringos, mainly retirees, and the subsequent growing wealth of the Mexican middle class, the number of cars has drastically increased and the high volume of traffic is not attractive.  Also, there are so many older North Americans here I sometimes felt like I had stumbled into an Assisted Living residence.

Folks who live in SMDA really love it.  They have lots of friends, life is comfortable and easy, and there are so many activities to choose from, day and night. But you really better have the income to support the SMDA lifestyle.  I was assured by some of the ex-pat residents that there were cheaper restaurants and lifestyles – but then, wouldn’t you be denying yourself of the best that the city has to offer?  Who wants to live in a constant state of penny-pinching self-denial?

So here are my Pros and Cons to living in SMDA.  Remember, this is just my opinion and this world-class city is totally worth a visit whether you are thinking of living there or not.

PROS:

• It’s drop-dead GORGEOUS – you will never get tired of simply looking and exploring;
• There is a huge variety of activities, entertainment, classes, and food.  Learn to be a film-maker or photographer, study yoga or pilates, hear world class music while eating international cuisine…you get the idea;
• It’s easy to meet other ex-pats and Spanish language needs are not as immediate as in less popular areas;
• Great climate, pretty much year-round, though a bit dry for my taste;
• Close to the international airport in Leon (about 90 minutes);
• Good infrastructure:  roads, utilities, city services, hospitals, dentists, doctors;
• Don’t really need a car if you live in town.  Local transportation is plentiful and reliable;
• Nearby Queretero has goods such as hardware, home décor, and anything else you can’t find in SMDA.

CONS:

• Sooo many gringos, bringing the threat of urban sprawl and over-development;
• God-blessed expensive;
• Prone to droughts – this is the high desert so in periods of no-rain the surrounding countryside can be very brown, dry and dusty;
• Possible water issues in the future due to over development.

But don’t take my word for any of this – go visit SMDA, splurge and avail yourself of its many wonders.  And don’t forget day trips to the nearby cities of Guanajuato and Queretaro, two other colonial jewels well worth your time.  Who needs Europe when we have Mexico?

Do you have similar stories to share about expat life or moving abroad?  We’d love to hear from you.

Leave a comment below and don’t forget to share this article if you enjoyed it!