Retro Food Kink

Beef Fizz

2020-06-28T08:01:00.001-04:00

A delicious and unusual summer drink.

Sauce pot chocolate cake

2016-08-06T21:41:00.001-04:00

Sauce pot chocolate cake

3 oz baking chocolate

1 c brown sugar (packed) or white sugar.

1 T molasses optional

3 eggs (large)

½ c coffee, water or milk

2 T butter

2 t vanilla extract

2 c cake flour

2 t cream of tartar

¾ c milk

1 t baking soda dissolved in ¼ c of warm water

Prepare a 13x9 inch cake pan by lining with wax paper.

Place oven rack to the center.

Preheat oven to 350º

Melt chocolate, sugar, coffee in a 3 qt saucepan.
Beat eggs and add chocolate mixture. Return to heat and cook until it is like a custard sauce. Continually stir and watch carefully.
Remove pan from heat, stir in butter and vanilla and let cool. I put the pan in a larger pan of cold water. It can take 30 min or more to cool (body temp) without a water bath.
Mix flour, cream of tartar and milk (¾ c) into the chocolate and beat until smooth.
When the oven is ready, pour the baking soda water into the batter and stir. You'll see bubbles and it will get lighter and increase in volume. Use a spatula to make sure all the batter is mixed through.
Pour batter in pan and bake on the middle rack for about 40 minutes.

RK0012 - Emily Dickinson's two coconut cakes

2014-01-03T18:02:00.002-05:00

Several years ago I heard a story on NPR about a recipe that Emily Dickinson had sent a friend in a letter. The recipe was for coconut cake. And it is very simple:

1 lb. sugar
½ lb. butter
½ lb. flour
6 eggs
1 grated coconut

So this is recipe I used. Emily's exact recipe except I am figuring that when she wrote 1 Lb she used the equivalency chart and used 2 cups.

2 c sugar (Light brown sugar or half , makes the cake taste like a Butterscotch Krimpet)
2 c flour
1 c butter (I use a high fat butter like Kerry Gold)
6 extra-large eggs or equivalent in duck eggs (these are fantastic for baking)
1 c finely chopped dry unsweetened coconut. (optional, you can use extract flavorings. A vanilla bean is terrific for this.)

(1 t kosher salt) add to eggs

(1 t cream of tartar) add to eggs

(1/2 t Gum Arabic or Guar Gum - mix in the flour)

All ingredients at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 350º.
Use a half sheet pan lined with paper
Beat eggs until frothy and gently add 1 cup of sugar, salt, flavoring, and cream of tartar. After about 10 minutes the eggs will have increased seven-fold. The eggs should be very thick and fall in ribbons off the beaters.
Cream the butter until glossy and add the second cup of sugar until they incorporated and smooth.
Add the flour and guar gum to the butter and work it with your fingers like you are making pie crust or shortbread. (This is reverse creaming.)
Add the beaten egg to the flour in 2 or 3 parts. At first you are folding in the egg and when it's all in, beat for 2-3 minutes until it is a nice batter. Make sure to scrape the bottom and sides.
Fold in the coconut.
Spread evenly on the sheet pan and bake for 30-35 minutes. Cake should be light brown. Test for doneness.
Let cool. Cut into 1 x 3 inch rectangles.

Leave a comment if you have any questions.

RK0011 - Pickled Cantaloupe

2011-07-04T12:15:00.003-04:00

Last summer I was on a cantaloupe kick. I ate cantaloupe every morning with cottage cheese. And when I didn't have cottage cheese, I sprinkled it a little salt. The salt idea is from my grandmother, who always served juicy halves of cantaloupe with salt. I have a distinct luscious memory of sitting on my grandmothers' porch on a hot summer day and eating cool cantaloupe with salt. Bees buzzing in the Rose of Sharon, cicadas singing as they clung to the willow tree and warm lusty breezes surrounding me. Comforting me. Oh, those lazy, magical days of childhood.

When I started eating the cantaloupe last year, I posted it on Facebook. Who doesn't do that? I know many people don't like that kind of thing, posting mundane crap, and it does annoy me some too, even though I am guilty of doing it. But I don't regret having done it in this instance. My aunt saw it and we had a conversation. She told me that she still eats cantaloupe with salt. And that started a conversation. We talked about my grandmother and the house she grew up in. We talked about the family holiday dinners there and my grandfathers garden. It was great, I asked her questions, learned about my family and it was all because I posted I was eating cantaloupe with salt.

What is significant about this, and more so in hindsight, is that my aunt and my family had been estranged for many years. It was a terrible family dispute that lasted too long. A few years ago the thaw started and we were soon back in each others lives. But, my aunt is dead now. She died of cancer. She had a good life, she lived much longer than her doctors expected her to and she died very peacefully. She had just shut up the house, sat on the couch, had a brandy, took her teeth out and then she expired. She was found sitting on the couch.

So before you judge those mundane Facebook posts, know that they can be the start of changes, lead to reconciliations and memories. Even though they seem stupid, they are truthful. I was eating cantaloupe with salt.

I made pickled cantaloupe last year for the first time. I found a recipe for pickled pears and that lead me to pickling the cantaloupe. And it is yummy. Yesterday I made the first batch of pickled cantaloupe this year. And as I was preparing them, I thought of long ago summers, my aunt and how wonderful it is to be alive.

Enjoy the cantaloupe.

Here's the recipe:

Pickled Cantaloupe

1 large cantaloupe [just about ripe, still slightly firm]
White vinegar
Water
salt
sugar
Pickling spice
(2) 1-Quart mason jars with lids

1. Wash and dry the mason jars and lids.
2. Remove the hard rind from the cantaloupe.
3. Cut cantaloupe into 3/4 in pieces.
4. Fill mason jars evenly with cantaloupe pieces. Note: A large cantaloupe fills two jars.
5. Fill one of the just packed jars with vinegar and strain the vinegar into a sauce pan.
6. Do the same thing, but use water.
7. Add a teaspoon of salt & sugar to the vinegar-water and bring to a boil.
8. Add 1 Tablespoon of pickling spice to each jar of cantaloupe. Note: This amount of spice makes for an intense flavor.
9. Pour the boiling vinegar-water over the cantaloupe.
10. Using a table knife, make sure the cantaloupe has no air pockets and the spices start to circulate through the liquid.
11. Put the lids on. Take a towel, wrap it around the hot jar, pick it up and give it a few good shakes.
12. Let cool then refrigerate.
13. Cantaloupe will be ready by the next day.

Kentie

RK0010 - Chance

2011-05-30T20:02:00.002-04:00

In the Philadelphia area, a favorite treat is the TastyKake Krimpet. They are tiny cakes, come three in a pack and there are two types - Butterscotch and Jelly. Both types of Krimpets use the same cake. The Butterscotch Krimpet is distinguished by a frosting and the other one by a jelly filling.

When I think of them, I'm reminded of my childhood. They are indelibly linked to it. During every season and occasion there were TastyKake Krimpets.

Eating Krimpets was a ritual. The first thing that was addressed was removing the wax paper wrapper without disturbing the frosting. Of course, this only pertained to the butterscotch variety. Often times, all of the frosting would stick to the wrapper while it was being removed, especially on a hot day. It was like a game of chance. What would happen? Would all the frosting stick to the wrapper?, or maybe just the frosting from one or two of the cakes. If none of the frosting stuck, "You won". If you weren't so lucky, there was always another chance during the next time you earned the treat. You've probably guessed that the guaranteed method of removing the wrapper without disturbing the frosting was to freeze the cakes first. That works, but then you have to wait for the cake to defrost and who wants to wait that long!

The cake was spongy and had a delicate sweet flavor. It was toothsome. I never thought to question what kind of cake it might be. I knew it wasn't like the boxed cakes my mother made. I assumed that the special/different qualities of the Krimpet cake, as compared to boxed cake, was a result of being made in a factory. It was just something that could never be reproduced in a home kitchen. It was a company secret recipe that could only be reproduced in the company factory.

A few months ago I made a Burnt Sugar cake. I've been meaning to make one since espying it in the Meta Given's Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking, Volume 1. I thought it was unusual and I like unusual cakes. However, the recipe makes a large cake and I didn't have an occasion to make that large of a cake. The recipe makes a cake that requires a party of 12-20 people to polish it off. I would have eaten the whole thing by myself if it stayed in my house. I like to bake, I just can't afford to stuff myself with the results. I am following a bodybuilding routine and I do want the chance of seeing my abs at sometime.

So I did some research and found other recipes for Burnt Sugar cake. The earliest recipe I found was in the original Joy of Cooking, 1931. The latest one was in the Ladies Home Journal cookbook from the 1960's. Of the six recipes I found, there was a definite evolution. The earlier recipes called for a half cup of burnt sugar syrup, while the later ones required only three tablespoons. However, all of them made a three layer 9 inch round cake. Which would only mean death to my abs if I made it.

So I decide to experiment. I adapted a Kitchenette cake, which is a one bowl method cake. The Kitchenette cake is wonderful. It makes an 8x8x2 inch square cake or sixteen cupcakes. It is perfect for a small party and can be flavored as you like. For the adaptation I substituted some of the sugar with burnt sugar syrup and added two extra eggs to make the batter less thick.

When I finally tasted it, I realized that I was eating a Butterscotch Krimpet. It had the same spongy quality and it was the burnt sugar that gave it that special sweet flavor I remembered. I also suspect that the burnt sugar syrup aids in making the cake moist and spongy, but I don't have any scientific proof, just a hunch.

So I came across, by chance, the secret to the Butterscotch Krimpet. I guess factories are not so special.

Here's the recipe:

Burnt Sugar Cake
1 1/3 c cake flour
2/3 c sugar
2 t baking powder
1/2 t salt
1/3 c shortening
1/3 c milk
1/3 c burnt sugar syrup
1 t vanilla
3 large eggs

1. Preheat oven to 350º.
2. Prepare the burnt sugar syrup. See recipe below.
3. In a bowl combine the dry ingredients.
4. Add the shortening and rub it into the flour until it is crumbly.
5. Add the milk, burnt sugar syrup, vanilla and one egg. Beat for 2 minutes scraping the sides of the bowl once.
6. Add the remaining two eggs and beat for an additional 2 minute scraping the sides of the bowl once.
7. Bake in a tube pan for 50 minutes. Or fill 16 cupcake tins and bake for 20-25 minutes.
8. Once cake is done let cool and frost with Burnt Sugar frosting.

Burnt Sugar syrup
2/3 c sugar
1/2 c cold water
1/2 c hot water

1. In a heavy sauce pan add the sugar and water.
2. Heat until the sugar is a deep golden color.
3. Remove from heat and carefully add the hot water.
4. Return the pan to the burner and over low heat stir until the sugar is dissolved and is syrupy.
5. Cool. There should be about 2/3 cup of syrup.

Burnt Sugar frosting
1/3 c burnt sugar syrup
2 t powdered egg whites
1 T shortening
1/4 t flavoring [I like orange extract]
cold water
powdered sugar

1. Mix the burnt sugar syrup with the egg white powder.
2. Add enough powdered sugar to make a very thick frosting.
3. Add the shortening and flavor and beat. The mixture should be fairly thick.
4. Add about two tablespoons of cold water one teaspoon at a time and beat until frosting is of spreadable consistency.

Let me know if you make it and if you do please post a comment.

Love,
Kentie

RK0009-A Valentines Day Meal Menu

2011-02-13T12:20:00.000-05:00

Valentines Day is a holiday that is both overly commercialized and a needed holiday. Like other 'holidays', Valentines Day has been taken over by card companies, jewelry stores and chocolate makers. And it is easy to understand how this holiday is monetized because marketing for this holiday is easy. It all has to do with FEELINGS. A basic rule of advertising is to target peoples FEELINGS. Selling things has nothing to do with selling a functional, beneficial or useful object or service, it has to do with how buying the object or service makes you feel. It is a dog trick. And Valentines Day is all about FEELING and specifically erotic love. And erotic love is powerful and basic to our bodies, just as powerful as fear.

But this holiday is needed and we should celebrate it. But celebrate it on your own terms.

Celebrate it by making love.
Be transgressive and take back and enjoy your erotic desires.
Be joyful with your body and relish how good it feels to be with another or yourself.
If you are gay, make sure you flaunt your love in public just as much as heterosexuals do, which is often and wet.

So with this in mind. I have a Valentines Day menu for you to serve to your sweetheart, friend, or yourself. It is a transgressive menu which I hope will help you break the chain to our corporate overlords. I perused my favorite retro cook books and came up with the following rocking menu.

Cheddar cheese and crisp crackers

Salmon in Cucumber Aspic

wine: Chardonay

Braised Heart

wine: Pinot Noir

Carrot and Turnips in Tomato

Mashed Potatoes

Gravy

Lemon Sorbet

Grandma's Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Mocha Frosting

Coffee or Tea

Nuts

wine: Port

Here are the recipes:

SALMON IN CUCUMBER ASPIC
From Modern Priscilla Cook Book, 1924.
2 large cucumbers, peeled and seeded and chopped
1/4 chopped onion or 1 T dry onion flakes
salt and pepper
1 t lemon juice
1 1/2 c water
1 T gelatin
1/4 c cold water
3/4 c flaked salmon

1. Sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/4 c of cold water.
2. Boil the cucumber and onion in the water for 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and purée the cucumber and onion mixture, add the lemon juice and season. There should be about 2 cups of liquid.
4. Add the gelatin and stir until gelatin dissolves. Chill until it is at the soft set stage.
5. Stir in the salmon and fill greased individual molds and chill until firm.
6. Un-mold the aspics on lettuce leaves and serve with radish roses and lemon wedges.

BRAISED BEEF HEART
From Modern Priscilla Cook Book, 1924.

2 small calves' hearts or 1 Lb. Beef Heart
2 slices of salt pork
1 c beef stock
2 stalks of celery cut into 1/2 in pieces
1 large yellow onion, sliced
3 medium carrots cut into 1 inch pieces
1 medium turnip, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 bay leaf
3 cloves
1 t dry parsley or a T of fresh.
1 c crushed tomato

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Render the salt pork in a frying pan.
3. Flour, salt and pepper the hearts and brown them in the salt pork fat. Do not clean pan.
4. Place browned hearts in a roasting pan and add the beef stock, celery, onion, parsley, bay leaf and cloves. Bake for 1 1/2 hours covered.
5. A half hour before the heart is finished cooking, add the carrots, turnip and tomato to the pan use for browning the heart. Cook on medium-low heat covered until vegetables are as tender as you like.
6. Remove the hearts to a platter and cover with tin foil.
7. Strain the pan juices and thicken it with flour and butter.
8. Slice the hearts and place cooked carrots and turnip around the hearts and serve gravy in a separate dish.

MASHED POTATOES

3 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and roughly cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 butter
Milk
Seasonings

1. Boil the potatoes until tender then drain and let sit with the cover off to dry a bit.
2. Add the butter, seasonings and mash.
3. Add milk a little at a time until creamy yet firm enough to eat with a fork.

GRANDMA'S CHOCOLATE CAKE
Adapted from the Woman's Day Encyclopedia of Cookery, Vol 3, 1966

1/2 c. butter
1/2 c. shortening
1 Lb. light brown sugar
3 eggs
1 c. sweet milk
2 3/4 c. all-purpose flour
1 package of fast rising yeast
4 oz. bakers chocolate
1 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. vanilla

1. Preheat oven to 200°F, leave for 10 minutes and turn off oven and keep the oven door closed.
2. Prepare a 10-in angel food pan [with removable bottom]. Grease the bottom of the pan lightly with vegetable shortening, lay down wax or parchment paper and greasing that lightly. Do not grease the sides of the pan.
3. In a sauce pan put the milk, chocolate and 1/3 of the sugar. Heat this until the chocolate has melted. Place on a wire rack until it has cooled to about 105°F.
Meanwhile
4. Combine thoroughly the flour, yeast and baking soda.
5. Cream butter and remaining sugar.
6. Add eggs one at a time and beat at least one minute before adding the next egg.
7. Add the vanilla to the egg mixture and add 1/3 of the flour and 1/2 of the chocolate mixture and beat until combined. Repeat and finally add the last of the flour. Beat until flour is incorporated into the batter. Do not over beat and make sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

6. Pour batter into the angel food pan and place in the oven and close the door. Let it sit for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

7. Take pan out of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Bake cake for 50 minutes. Test with a toothpick to check for doneness. [For newbies, you stick the topic into the center of the cake between the hole and sides. Pull it out. If the toothpick is 'clean' the cake is done, if batter is on the toothpick, bake for another 5 minutes and test again.]

8. When cake is done, place on a wire rack and let cool. When cool enough, place plastic wrap over the cake and let cool completely.

Removing the cake is simple. Run a knife along the edge of the sides and center of the cake. Pull the cake out. Invert so the cake drops out and remove wax paper. Place on a plate and frost with Chocolate Mocha Frosting.

CHOCOLATE MOCHA FROSTING
1 Lb Confectioners sugar
2 t powdered egg whites [also called meringue powder.]
1/2 c cocoa
1 T Sanka [dry instant coffee]
1/3 c Spry or your favorite brand of vegetable shortening.
warm water

Cream the shortening with the egg whites, coffee and cocoa. Add 1/3 of the sugar and 1 teaspoon of water, repeat until all of the sugar is used.

The frosting may need more water. Add a teaspoon at a time until it is of spreading consistency. Be patient and beat for at least 5 minutes and scrape the sides of the bowl. Also I recommend that you use an electric hand mixer.

I hope you like the menu and recreate it. If you do, please post a comment.

Happy Valentines Day!

Love,
Kentie

Finally a Grapefruit cake!

2011-01-30T20:41:00.002-05:00

I have been having a dickens of a time finding the perfect grapefruit cake. I made several. The first one was from the Culinary Arts Institute cookbook, circa 1940. It was okay, but not really grapefruity enough and makes an enormous cake - a three 9-inch round layer cake! Yikes! The second recipe I tried was one based on an orange cake recipe, where I substituted grapefruit. It was better, but really it was just a cake with a grapefruit glaze. This second cake made a 9x5 loaf - the perfect size IMHO. The last cake I made was also based on an orange-raisin cake recipe. The recipe is unusual because the whole orange, including the rind, is ground with raisins and added to the batter. It is a really an intense, moist orange cake. And when I substituted grapefruit, Voila! GRAPEFRUIT cake! Really!

I think one problem when cooking with grapefruit, is that grapefruit changes its character when cooked. That was my experience. The grapefruit loses its citrus character and is replaced with a floral one. Some of the bitterness is present, but not enough for one to recognize grapefruit. I think that using the whole grapefruit, including the peel/rind made this last recipe a success. I imagine that there must be loads of flavor in the rind. But I am only guessing here.

Grapefruit Loaf Cake
Based on an Orange Cake recipe from, Make-a-Sweet Cookbook by Barbara Zeitz, 1969.

2 c cake flour [I use Soft as Silk]
1 1/4 c sugar
2 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
1 t salt
1/3 c vegetable shortening
3/4 c milk
1 t vanilla extract
2 large eggs
Grated rind of one pink grapefruit
Juice of half a pink Grapefruit [about a 1/4 c]

1. Prepare 9x5 in loaf pan and preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Dry measure the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl and stir to thoroughly combine.
3. Add the shortening and grated grapefruit rind and cut into the dry ingredients.
4. Add the milk, flavoring and 1 egg. Beat on high speed for 2 minutes.
5. Add the remaining egg and grapefruit juice and beat an additional 2 minutes on high speed.
6. Bake for 45 minutes.
7. Frost with grapefruit frosting.

Grapefruit Frosting

1/2 t powdered egg whites
1 c powdered sugar
1 T shortening
grapefruit juice
red food die if you like pink.

1. Combine the dry ingredients and shortening into the metal bowl and stir.
2. Cut the shortening into the sugar.
3. Add a teaspoon of grapefruit juice and stir. Add more juice by the teaspoon until the frosting spreadable and beat adding more grapefruit juice until fluffy yet firm enough to spread.

Note: You may want to read my entry on Devils Food Cake from January 9, 2010. It is also a one-bowl method cake.
**************************************************************
Ultimate Grapefruit Cake which beats Paula Deens' puny Grapefruit Cake cake
Based on Rainbow Grange Raisin Cake recipe from, Woman's Day Encyclopedia of Cookery, Vol. 4 , 1966.

2 large eggs
1 1/2 c sugar
1/2 c butter, melted
2 1/2 c All-purpose flour
1 t baking soda
1 t salt
1/4 t nutmeg or mace
1/2 c sour milk or buttermilk
1 c golden raisins chopped
1 pink grapefruit, split in half and seeded. Note: You can use regular grapefruit too, but pink is prettier.
Brandy
sugar

1. Take half the grapefruit and cut into 1 inch pieces along with the rind in a bowl. Add the raisins and place in a food processor and grind it up until fairly smooth.
2. In a large bowl, beat eggs until thick and creamy.
3. While beating, gradually add sugar and melted butter.
4. Stir together dry ingredients.
5. Beat the dry ingredients alternately with the sour milk to the egg mixture.
6. Fold in the grapefruit-raisin mush.
7. Pour into a prepared 9x9x2in pan and bake for 50-55 minutes at 350°F.
8. Optional: After the cake has cooled in its pan. Spread a thin glaze of grapefruit juice, brandy and sugar over top the cake.

The cake is very rich and moist. It really does not need frosting.

PS If you want to make the orange cake, substitute a whole orange for the grapefruit.

Thanks and let me know if you make any of the cakes!

Kentie

Pickled Pears

2010-09-05T19:55:00.007-04:00

One thing that turns me on is unusual recipes. I like old recipes that when I look at it, I can not imagine it's flavor, texture or even how it might be served. One of the first recipes I resurrected was an Avocado and Grapefruit cocktail from the Modern Priscilla cook book. That was easy to make and now I can't not imagine how good it tastes. There is a another recipe in that book for Sardine Cocktails, which I really want to make but haven't mustered up the courage and I like sardines. However this post is about a recipe I found in the First edition of the McCall's Cook Book (1963).

I found the cook book at the local town dump book swap, where I've found several other interesting cook books there as well. This book is interesting for several reasons. It has it's share of casserole and cake recipes, but also has unusual ones as well. It is like someone took an 'old' cookbook added a few new recipes, stuck a cool cover on it and PRESTO! A modern swinging cookbook. However the cook book doesn't know that. It's like dressing Granny in a mini skirt. To give you a flavor of the book, one recipe is exhaustive; it has fourteen steps and takes FIVE hours to prepare and it only serves six people. Who has that kind of time? Did anyone ever have that kind of time, anytime in history?

Luckily there are easier recipes which are interesting. The one that caught my eye the other day was for Pickled Pears. It is super easy and makes a great side for meat dishes, like pork chops, ham or lamb.

Pickled Pears

1 29 oz. can of Pear Halves

1/3 c cider or white vinegar

1 T pickling spice

1. Drain the Pear Halves and reserve the liquid.

2. In a medium saucepan add the liquid and the pickling spices.

3. Bring the pear liquid to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

4. Add the vinegar and pears to the hot liquid.

5. Let cool and place in the refrigerator until chilled.

6. Serve as a side for meat dishes.

Enjoy!

Kentie

Master Recipe

2010-08-08T14:36:00.001-04:00

You probably know by now that I love baking. My favorite cakes to make are prepared with the one-bowl method. Using this method, you can make a homemade cake as easily as using a boxed mix. And you should want to make homemade cakes because boxed cakes taste cloyingly similar, it's like they came from some sort of fascist bakery. Also, with homemade cakes you have control over the ingredients. You can choose to make a cake with varying amounts of sugar, flour or eggs. You also have control over how much cake you are making. If I am baking for a party I make a 9-inch 3 layer cake and if I am having only a few friends over I'll make an 8-inch layer cake. I have the recipes for each of these sizes of cake as well as everything in between.

The recipe for today will be for a 3 layer cake. When I was in Philadelphia a couple weeks ago, I made this cake for my nephew's birthday. For Eddie's cake I made it plain vanilla with chocolate frosting and I baked it in a 9x13 layer pan, to make it easier to serve and store. When I got back from Philadelphia, I had another birthday cake to make. This one was for Gillie, my mother-in-law and I made a coconut cake. Again I baked it in a 9x13 layer pan. But this time I used 2/3 of the batter for the layer cake and used the remaining batter to make mini bunt cakes.

And I have another birthday cake to make later in August. It is for John's niece, Mia. She wants an orange cake like Gillie makes. I knew that Gillie's orange cake was a one-bowl cake, but I wanted to know how she flavored it so I could doctor my Master Recipe. So I spent the afternoon with her and she told me her secret recipe. Details to follow.

Here's the recipe:

Triple-Tier Party Cake
from Spry Shortenings' pamphlet, 10 Cakes Husbands Like Best, no date.

2 3/4 c cake flour [I use Soft-as-silk]
1 3/4 c sugar
2       t baking powder
1/2    t salt
1       c Spry [Since Spry is no longer sold, just use your favorite vegetable shortening]
3/4    c milk
1       t almond extract
1       t orange extract
4          large eggs
1       c finely cut coconut [OPTIONAL]

1. Prepare (3) 9" cake pans and preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Dry measure the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl and stir to thoroughly combine.
3. Add the Spry and cut into the dry ingredients.
4. Add the milk, flavoring and 1 egg.   Beat on high speed for 2 minutes.
5. Add the remaining 3 eggs and beat an additional 2 minutes on high speed.
6. Stir in the coconut.
7. Divide among three 9-inch layer pans and bake for 25-30 minutes.
8. Frost with 7 minute frosting and sprinkle with coconut.

Notes:
*   If you want to make a plain vanilla cake, use 2 t vanilla extract and don't use the coconut.
* To make Gillie's orange cake: Add 2 T of grated orange rind and 1 T of orange juice and change the flavoring to 2 t orange extract. Also, don't add the coconut. But you can if you want! : )

Fool proof Seven Minute Frosting

You will need to have a hand mixer that can reach the stove top, a large metal bowl and a large sauce pan.

2 t powdered egg whites
1 1/2 c sugar
2 T water
2 t light corn syrup
1/8 t cream of tarter
dash of salt
1/3 c water
1 t flavoring extract

1. Combine all ingredients into the metal bowl and stir until the sugar is mostly dissolved.
2. Add 2 cups of water in the large sauce pan and bring the water to a boil.
3. Place the metal bowl over the boiling water and turn burner to low.
4. Beat the egg white mixture with the electric hand mixer on high for at least 7 minutes. At the 7 minute mark the mixture should be fluffy, yet firm enough to spread.

I've tried making this with fresh egg whites, but the result is very drippy. If you use egg whites use less water. With powdered egg whites I know exactly what I am getting each time. Save yourself a headache and get some powdered egg whites.

Gillie's Orange Frosting

2 Lb bag of confectioners sugar
1 T grated orange rind
1/4 c soft butter, Spry or oleo
milk

1. Combine the sugar, orange rind and butter into a large bowl.
2. Cut the butter into the sugar.
3. Add milk a teaspoon at a time and beat with a spoon until the mixture is spreadable. ONE EXTRA TEASPOON OF MILK CAN MAKE YOUR FROSTING A SOGGY MESS. BEWARE!

Note: I think this will frost a large triple-tier cake. I doubled Gillie's original recipe which frosts an 8-inch tube cake.

That is the recipe. Please leave comments, especially if you make this recipe.

Thanks,
Kentie

P.S. You may want to read my entry on Devils Food Cake from January 9, 2010. It is also a one-bowl method cake.

Ginger Pear Jam

2010-05-31T18:49:00.001-04:00

One of my favorite cookbooks is The Modern Priscilla Cook Book. I have the 1924 and the 1930 editions. I love to collect various editions of cookbooks to see what changed. This cookbook is also the first "retro" cook book I bought. If you can believe it, I wanted to find public domain cookbooks to talk about recipes on my podcast The Flatus Show.    I chose old cook books because I was paranoid about being sued. It turns out that I really like the old cook books better than the newer ones and I developed an interest in the history and flavors of American cooking.

This memorial day weekend I decided to make some jelly. My first choice was to make October Jelly. I had bought the grapes on sale awhile back and made the grape juice and froze it. However as I read the instructions, I should have prepared the grapes differently.   You'll have to wait until I find some more grapes on sale and when I do I promise I will October Jelly and give out the recipe, or least my working recipe. Just so you don't fret, I didn't waste the grape juice. I made regular grape jelly.

As I was looking at the jelly, jam and conserve recipes and I noticed a recipe for Ginger Pear Jam. I was intrigued by the name but also the ingredients. It called for canned pears! My first politically incorrect thought was "How white trash is that!". But I changed my mind. It did, after all, call for crystallized ginger.

For the recipe I measured out 2 1/2 cups of canned pears and chopped them. I ended up with 3 cups of finely chopped pears. I measured out 1/2 c of crystallized ginger which is six pieces. I chopped that up too. The rest of the ingredients were straight forward except for the pectin. The recipe called for 1/2 cup of pectin.   I searched on the Internet for a pectin equivalence chart, but found very little information on how to exchange liquid pectin with powdered pectin. I did find one site which gave this equivalence: 2 Tb of liquid pectin = 2 t powdered pectin. It ends that one box of Sure Jell pectin equals 1/2 cup of liquid pectin, according to the formula.

I was a little leery about using the whole box of pectin because I knew the recipe was only going to make four 8-ounce jars of jam and I've made eight jars of grape jelly and used only one box. So my thought was that the jam could come out like a brick. Since pears are a low acidic fruit I decided that the extra pectin wouldn't hurt. It is the pectin, along with the acid in the fruit and the sugar which make the jelly gel. So I used the whole box.

Some low acid jams and jellies can take up to two weeks to "set" and I was going to wait the two weeks for my jam to set before testing it, however my curiosity got the better of me and I opened a jar today. At this time it is the same consistency as marmalade. I wonder if it will become firmer in a few weeks? Besides its consistency, it is a terrific tasting jam. It is a hearty flavor, very gingery with a hint of the pear just beneath the surface. I tried it with cheddar cheese on a cracker and it was the right accompaniment to the cheese. I think it might go well with chicken, especially a chicken salad. And of course it would make a nice cake filling.

Here's the recipe:
Ginger Pear Jam from The Modern Priscilla Cook Book, 1924.
2 1/2 cups of canned pears drained [3 cups of finely chopped fresh pear]
1/2 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger [6 rounds of crystallized ginger]
2 lemons and rind
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 box of pectin (1.75 oz/49g)

1. Place the finely chopped pears and ginger into a large sauce pan. Add the grated rind plus juice of the two lemons and the sugar.
2. Cook slowly [low continuous boil] for 10 minutes.
3. Add the pectin and boil rapidly [higher heat] for 5 minutes.
4. Pour into (4) 8-ounce jelly jars to within a 1/4 of the rim. Place the lids on the jars and screw the rings tightly. Process in boiling water for 10 minutes. Make sure the jars are completely submerged in the water. There should 1 to 2 inches of water covering the jars.

Thanks,
Kentie

Please note: There is a whole process I do not explain. You need to wash the jars and lids. Boil the lids and rings and keep them in the boiling water until they are used. Also, you need to boil the jelly jars and place them on a clean towel upside down until they are ready to be filled with the hot liquid. When sealing the jars wipe off any jelly that might be in the rim.

Read the The Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving for exact details for making jams and jellies.

Lost Recipes

2010-03-14T19:33:00.001-04:00

There must have been a time when the American cook stopped making sauces. That is not to say that we stopped making gravies for Thanksgiving and Hollandaise sauce for our asparagus, but for the most part, the art of sauce making has been reduced to wine reductions with a plop of cold butter. And these are delicious and have a place on the table, I've even made a few great wine reductions over the years. But what I am referring to is the relative wealth of sauce recipes in our older cookbooks, which seemed to dry up as each succeeding edition was published.

I did a short study with my collection of American cookbooks, which were published between 1890 and 1986. The cookbooks from the late 19th century have the most savory sauce recipes averaging about 50 recipes per book and of course you can bet they have their own chapter. Each recipe not only details its preparation, but also suggests how it is served and how to vary it.

I followed one recipe to see how it fared over time in my cookbooks. The recipe is for Drawn Butter. Recipes for Drawn Butter seem to have disappeared after 1939. The newest cookbook I have with a 'Drawn Butter' recipe is my facsimile copy of The Joy of Cooking and it is a recipe in name only. The recipe is just melted butter with crumbs. So I could venture that the recipe 'disappeared' at an earlier date.

When I first saw the recipe I skipped over it, thinking that it is just melted butter, but then I looked a little more closely at it and it wasn't that simple. Drawn Butter is a combination of Butter, Flour, Water and Salt at it's simplest. In the various cookbooks, variations are given such as adding vinegar, lemon, capers, chopped hard cooked eggs and anchovies. This sauce is used for fish, and especially so if you include vinegar, or so Mrs. Rorer says in her delightful New Cookbook.

I decided to try it, so I culled together various Drawn Butter recipes, sans Erma Rombauers, and created a Frankenstein-like recipe, which I think is pretty darn good. Here is my recipe:

Kentie's Drawn Butter recipe from the ages

1/2 cup unsalted sweet butter
5 Tablespoons all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon of salt or to taste
2 cups boiling water

1. Melt the butter and blend in the flour and salt.
2. Pour the boiling water onto the butter/flour mixture and stir constantly to avoid lumping.
3. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes stirring constantly.

There you have it! Drawn Butter. Knock your socks off and try it.

The sauce is versatile and it welcomes various flavors. My favorite variation is to take 1 cup of the drawn butter and add 2 Tablespoons of chopped capers, along with 2 Tablespoons of celery vinegar*. Yum and excellent with fish!

Kentie

Another old-time recipe and it's terrific on cucumbers.

*Celery Vinegar - Take 1/2 cup of celery seed and crush them in a mortar or in a spice grinder and put them in a heat resistant glass jar. Pour 2 1/2 cups of boiling vinegar over the seeds and let cool. Cover and place in the refrigerator. Shake every days and after a week, strain the seeds and use the vinegar. Of course the flavor strengthens the longer you let the seeds steep in the vinegar.

A Tale of Two Cakes or That's a lot of baking powder.

2010-02-28T15:21:00.000-05:00

I love baking, and I love old recipes, which you already know. This past month a co-worker lent me some old cookbooks that belonged to her grandmother. One was a slim collection of New England recipes and the other was a cookbook used in the Brookline, MA school system to teach Home Economics. Both were published in the 30s and both had an assortment of unusual recipes, which are the ones I like best.

   The New England Cookbook had a recipe which popped right out, Cambridge Favorite Cake. What struck me were the instructions for preparing the cake. It was like a mash up between a butter cake and a classic sponge. Not only did you cream the butter with sugar, but in addition to beating the egg whites, you whipped the yolks with sugar and use five teaspoons of baking powder. This recipe uses a lot of bowls, but it is worth it. Did I mention that it makes three 9-inch round cake layers! It is some cake.

Intrigued with the unique preparation of the cake, I looked through my collection of old cook books to see if I could find any other cake recipes which used a similar preparation model. I wanted to date the cake by trying to find the earliest recipe. I found a similar recipe in a facsimile edition of the 1896 Fannie Farmer cook book. In that book the cake recipe is called Boston Favorite Cake. The instructions aren't as detailed as they are in the New England Cookbook, but the ingredient list is almost same, including the FIVE teaspoons of baking powder. That amount of baking powder amazes me. I wonder if there is an earlier account of this fine recipe? I'll have to do some more sleuthing.

I knew I wanted to make this cake and I mentioned it on Facebook. A friend, Erica, asked me if it was a precursor to Boston Cream pie. I told her I didn't know, but did tell her I was concerned about the amount of baking powder in the recipe. I am not sure when double-action baking powder was invented, but was sure it wasn't as early as 1896, which is the earliest published date of the recipe I could find. I thought that maybe I should halve the amount of baking powder.   This is when Stephen Exel entered the thread and wrote that he had a copy of the recipe from a 1947 Culinary Institute of Chicago cookbook. Since double-action baking powder was established by this time, he thought that the five teaspoons was correct. He went on to say that:
>>the cake is meant to be 3 layers and is described as "tall, light, and elegant"<<

Stephen also told me that this recipe appears in the latest edition of Fannie Farmer (100th Anniversary, 1996), but the recipe was modified to make two 8-inch round layers. He also said that he wanted to make the cake as well, being equally intrigued by it.

So with all this information and curiosity I decided to bake the cake on a Saturday morning and , Stephen was also baking his cake the same day. I had just started the Metropolitan Opera broadcast of Ariadne auf Naxos [because you need the right music for baking, or at least I do*] when I checked my email. There was one from Stephen, he gave me a warning - Check the expiration date of the baking powder! He checked his and it was way out of date. I double checked my baking powder and it was fine.   I had thought I had just bought it and I was right, but memory sometimes fails. I also decided to read the instructions on the baking powder label. Did you know that you are supposed to shake the baking powder before using it? I didn't. This made me think of a helpful hint, why not write the expiration date on the lid of the baking powder as well as a reminder to "SHAKE FIRST".

Okay here is the recipe Stephen emailed me, which is the same one I used:

Cambridge Favorite Cake
From the Culinary Institute of Chicago, 1947
Ingredients
3 1/4 c flour
5 t baking powder
1/2 t salt
2/3 c butter
1 3/4 c sugar
4 eggs, separated
1 c milk
1 t vanilla extract
Directions
    1    Line 3 9" cake pans with parchment or waxed paper and preheat oven to 350°F.
    2    Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.
    3    Cream butter and 1 cup of the sugar together until light and fluffy.
    4    Beat egg whites to stiff peaks.
    5    Beat egg yolks with remaining sugar and add to butter mixture.
    6    Add dry ingredients to batter alternately with the milk; beat thoroughly.
    7    Add the vanilla and fold in the egg whites.
    8    Pour into prepared pans and bake for 30 minutes or until cakes test done.

Kentie's notes:

I used cake/pastry flour and I sifted it before measuring it and then blended the baking powder and salt into it.
I beat my egg whites with 1/4 teaspoon of cream or tartar. I also used a metal bowl which I wiped with vinegar beforehand. I also did this before creaming the butter and beating the egg yolks. If there is any oil on the beaters or in the bowl, the egg whites won't whip up.
I beat the yolks until they were a pale yellow and very thick. I mixed this into the creamed butter/sugar on a low speed for 30 seconds or so.
The butter should be very soft. I used the microwave to soften it. I put it in a bowl and zapped it at 10 second intervals until it was very soft, but not melted.
I added the vanilla extract to the milk. I increased the amount of vanilla to two teaspoons.
When adding the flour alternately with milk, I started and ended with flour. I added 1/3 of flour, 1/2 milk; 1/3 flour, 1/2 milk; and ended with the last third of flour. I read about this technique somewhere and I think it is so that you don't over beat the flour and toughen the gluten. While, adding the flour and milk, I beat on medium speed until the flour and milk was incorporated. It took maybe 30 seconds. After all the flour was in, I beat it at high speed for a minute and scraped the sides of the bowl. Make sure not to over beat!
Be delicate when folding the egg whites into the batter and fold them in just until you can't see any more egg white.
I divided the batter between the pans using a spoon. I put a dollop of batter in each pan, repeating until the batter was evenly distributed among the pans. Make sure you spread the batter to the sides of the pan before baking. There should be a noticeable dent in the center of the batter. This will reduce the risk of a round cake top.
A note on oven temperature: My copy of the recipe indicated baking the cake layers in a 375º oven. Since I used dark non-stick metal pans, I reduced the temperature to 350º. But even this was too hot. When I checked my cakes at the 25 minute mark, they were done, and almost starting to burn. I should have checked it at the 18 minute mark. Next time I make this cake, I'll reduce the oven to 325º, if I use the dark metal pans again.

So what do you do with three layers of delicious cake? You fill and frost!

My filling and frosting idea came from John. He suggested banana cream filling with a chocolate frosting. Stephen filled his with a lemon curd and blueberry jam and covered it with a coconut butter-cream frosting.

Here are the recipes:
Lemon Curd

From Better Homes and Gardens New Cook Book 14th Edition (aka “the Red Plaid”)
1     c sugar
2     T cornstarch
3   t finely shredded lemon peel
6     T lemon juice
6     T water
6     egg yolks, beaten
1/2 c butter cut up

In a saucepan stir together sugar and cornstarch. Stir in lemon peel, lemon juice, and water. Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened and bubbly.
Stir half of the lemon mixture into the egg yolks. Return egg mixture to the saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly over medium heat until mixture comes to a gentle boil. Cook and stir for 2 minutes more. Remove from heat. Add butter; stir until melted. Remove from heat. Cover surface with plastic wrap. Chill 1 hour.

The coconut butter-cream frosting recipe will be in the April 2010 issue of Traditional Home.

The banana cream filling and chocolate frosting both come from the Fannie Farmer cookbook, 11th edition.

Banana Cream filling
1     c milk
1/2 c light brown sugar
3    T flour
1    egg
1    c pureed banana
2   T lemon juice

Puree banana with the lemon juice.
Cook the milk, sugar and flour until thick.
Add the egg and beat. Cook for a few more minutes.
Add the banana and beat.
Press some wax paper on the surface of the filling and cool in the refrigerator.

Creamy Chocolate Frosting
Note: Don't make this frosting until your cake is ready to be frosted. This frosting is put on the cake immediately after it is cooked. It is almost like a thick pudding.

For a triple layer 9-inch cake, double the recipe (if you're frosting the outside only).
2 ounces of unsweetened chocolate
1 c light brown sugar
3 T cornstarch
1 c boiling water
1 T butter
1 t vanilla

Melt the chocolate and add the sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan.
Add the boiling water. Mix well and cook until thick and smooth. Stirring constantly.
Remove from heat and add the butter and flavoring and beat for 3 minutes.
Frost your cake right away, don't dally!

If you decide to make this cake. Leave a comment. Better yet, send me some pictures to post. You'll love this cake and I am sure it will be the one you will make for special occasions from now onward. It's that good!

Kentie

STEPHEN EXEL is a freelance food editor, writer, and recipe developer. He is contributing food editor for Traditional Home and a former food editor for Better Homes & Gardens magazine. His work has appeared in FreshHome, Cooking Club of America, DSM, Country Home, Figure, Deck Patio & Pool, and Beaverdale Living magazines. Recipe development clients include Quaker Oats and Heineken. A native Chicagoan, Stephen’s culinary career spans almost 30 years and includes food editorial; restaurants; and public relations and marketing for chefs, restaurants, food commodity boards, and branded food clients.

Erica keeps a blog at MakeaRoux.blogspot.com

*As a side note, I found out that Stephen was listening to Maria Callas when he baked his cake.

Kentie's Delightful Nutmeg Cake

2010-02-13T17:11:00.001-05:00

Preheat oven to 350º

2 1/4 c cake flour
3/4    c light brown sugar
1/2    c white sugar
1/4 t salt
2 1/2 t baking powder
1       t ground nutmeg
3/4    c Crisco
3/4    c milk
1       t lemon extract
3         eggs

    1    Sift together in a bowl the dry ingredients, including the nutmeg.
    2    Add the Crisco, most of the milk, flavoring and 1 egg. Beat with an electric mixer 2 minutes or 200 strokes by hand.
    3    Add remaining eggs and milk. Beat with an electric mixer 2 minutes or 200 strokes by hand.
    4    Divide into (3) 8-inch round cake pans or (2) 9-inch round cake pans and bake at 350º for 30-35 minutes. Or make as cupcakes and bake for 20-25 minutes. This recipe makes about 20 cupcakes, you can probably stretch it out to make a full 2 dozen.

Note: Preparing your pans by greasing them with oil and lining with wax paper.

Also, use shiny silver pans, or disposable aluminum pans. If you are using dark pans, reduce the oven temperature by 25º

Memories, Friends and Ketchup

2010-02-06T19:30:00.000-05:00

Over the past few weeks I've been reading through The Virginia Housewife by Mary Randolph. I bought a facsimile of it in P-Town in 2008 while I was shopping with Kalvin of San Fransisco, from Hello Waffles fame. Kalvin was in P-Town for a Bear convention and I wanted to meet him. I'd communicated with him for over a year, but never met him. So I popped down to P-Town, had lunch with him and then we went shopping.

Since that time I've perused it many times imagining the dishes. It may be my favorite, post colonial American cookbook. It was originally published in 1824 and came about after Ms. Randolph's fortunes were diminished. She was a well known for giving the best dinner parties before she lost her money, and afterwards ran a boarding house, which only sharpened her cooking savvy. So what's a gal to do when she's down and out? Collect her recipes and publish them. This is similar to how The Joy of Cooking came in to being. Do I see a pattern?

The first recipe I tried from The Virginia Housewife was Walnut Ketchup. We have a Black Walnut tree and it just seemed like fate. I had just bought the book when the walnut tree just sprouted young tender green walnuts. Just what was required. Also, it sounded unusual and I really was curious about the taste. And how did they taste? Young walnuts, that were soaked in brine, taste like lime. I was surprised. The finished product, the Walnut Ketchup, was closer in flavor to Worcestershire sauce. I will make it again, when I don't forget to harvest the young walnuts. Maybe this summer.

Until that time, there are plenty of other ketchups and sauces to make. Just the other day, while I was looking through the book and thinking of the Walnut Ketchup I made in 2008, I come across a recipe for Oyster Ketchup. At first I thought it was kind of disgusting, but then I remembered that fish based sauces have been around a long time. The Romans had Garum, a type of fermented fish sauce. Today, cooks use anchovies for flavor and the Asian cooks was all sorts of fish sauce, which can be purchased in the international food aisle in the grocery store. So I decided that Oyster Ketchup might not be so bad. Also the recipe was super easy to make.

Oyster Ketchup
8 oz Fresh Oysters or canned [I'll talk about this later.]
8 oz dry white wine
2 T kosher salt
1 t ground mace
1 t cayenne pepper
brandy

1. Put the ingredients, except the brandy, in a blender and liquefy the oysters.
2. Put into a pan and boil for 15-20 minutes, skimming off the scum. Reduce to about 1 1/2 cups.
3. Put into a 2 cup bottle and add 1/2 c of brandy, more or less.
4. Keep in the refrigerator. I've had mine for several weeks and is still fresh.

That's my take on Mary's recipe. I've made it twice. The first time I used 8 oz. of 'fresh' oysters and the result was a thin, milky, tasty liquid. The second time I used two 4 oz cans of oysters and the result was thick and green, but still tasty.

Mary suggests that Oyster Ketchup is best used in white sauces. So I made a white sauce with the oyster ketchup and served it with fish. It was good. It is hard to describe the flavor. You can taste the oyster but together with the mace and cayenne pepper, you have a unique flavor. Try it out and let me know what you think of it and how you use it. I was talking with a friend of mine, Leila, and she thought it would be good cooked with olive oil and garlic and served over pasta. I haven't tried that, but I think it is a good idea.

Next time I may write about the Mushroom Ketchup I am making right now.

Kentie

Devil's Food Cake

2010-01-09T16:31:00.001-05:00

It has been a while since my last entry. I figure I owe you, dear reader, something scrumptious. So with that in mind and also to fulfill a promise to my Facebook friends I am going to give you a recipe for Devil's Food cake which taste's, at least to me, like Devil Dogs minus the filling [and I've got a recommendation for that too.]

I found this recipe by chance. I was at the town dump's [Note: That would be transfer station for the nouveau riche upwardly mobile types] book exchange hut, where I found volume 1 of Meta Given's Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking. It has a weird design, this volume has not only cake and cookie recipes, but also recipes for appetizers and fish dishes. I wonder what fills volume 2?

So naturally I begin by reading the cake recipes, because I love baking cakes. At the end of the cake section, Meta describes a new method for mixing cakes. It is the one-bowl-method. I thought to myself, "This looks familiar." And it was familiar because it was the same method used in the SPRY cake cookbooks. And for those of you that know me, know that I love making those old fashioned SPRY cakes. It makes me yearn for real SPRY, but alas I have to use substitutes.

Basically the one-bowl-method is based on mixing the ingredients in a precise order: Dry ingredients, fats and some milk - Mix at medium speed for 2 ins, then add the eggs and remaining milk/liquid - Mix at medium speed 2 min. It is important to add the fat first so it coats the flour and to only beat for 2 minutes at a time so you don't toughen the gluten. At least that is my understanding. The results are something else, the cakes bake evenly, rise well and nice and soft, yet firm enough to make a nice slice. These cakes are something to be proud of.

Anyway, here is the recipe. Leave a comment if you make it and let me know how the cake turned out.

Devil's Food Cake

3 oz of unsweetened chocolate [usually 3 squares] melted over hot water and cooled to room temperature.
2 cups of cake flour [Note: I didn't sift the flour.]
1 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1 1/3 c sugar
1/2 c shortening [I used very soft butter]
1 c milk [I used it right from the fridge]
1 t vanilla extract [I use my own homemade extract which beats all brands]
2 eggs [If you can get fresh eggs, they make a big difference in your cake]

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. If using glass or dark pans reduce heat to 325 degrees.
2. Prepare two 9 in cake pans by lightly greasing and lining the bottoms with wax paper. Don't grease the sides of the pans, just the bottoms and the wax paper.
3. Blend the flour, baking soda, salt and sugar in a bowl. [Sift if you want, but I can't be bothered. I simply don't have the room in my kitchen.]
4. Add the melted chocolate, shortening, 3/4 cup of milk and beat with a hand mixer at medium speed for 2 minutes, while scraping the sides of bowl with a spatula.
5. Stop beating and scrape the sides of the bowl and beaters.
6. Add the remaining milk, eggs and vanilla extract and beat with a hand mixer at medium speed for 2 minutes, while scraping the sides of bowl with a spatula.
7. Divide batter into pans, pushing the batter up around the edge of the pan.
8. Bake 20 min or until cakes test done.
9. Cool on racks and frost with French Butter Cream Frosting.

French Butter Cream Frosting

2/3 c sugar
1/4 c all-purpose flour
1/4 t salt
3/4 c milk
1/2 Lb. cold butter, take it out of the fridge an hour before you start and leave it in a fairly cool spot [i.e. not near the stove.] It should be cold but malleable.
1 t vanilla extract or whatever flavoring you like.

1. Combine the flour, sugar, salt and milk and cook over medium heat until it is very thick. I use a whisk and stir constantly. You've got to watch the pan closely, so don't fart around in the kitchen while this is on the stove.
2. After the flour mixture is cooked, beat it until is smooth over a bowl of ice until it is room temperature. It has to be cold enough so it won't melt the butter. This is like making Pâte à choux but you don't add eggs.
3. Now for the fun! With a hand mixer, beat the butter into the mixture a tablespoon at a time. make sure the butter is incorporated until adding more. It should take 8-10 minutes.
4. Lastly, beat in the flavoring and chill 5-10 minutes before frosting the cake.

Thats it! Hope you have fun making the cake and if you do make the cake, leave me a comment here.

A Taste of Ancient Rome

2009-12-18T18:39:00.001-05:00

I love cookbooks, especially A Taste of Ancient Rome. It is a history of ancient roman recipes and the author has translated them so we can try to experience the taste sensations of ages past. I especially found the chapter on meat fascinating. Did you know that Romans kept dormice in clay jars? Yep. And when Suetonius had a hankering for dormice stew, all he had to do was crack one open and slaughter the sleepy beastlet and throw him in a pot with some turnips.

If you have a Retro Food Kink, this book should be in your library.

Kentie

Marrow pudding and what this blog is all about!

2009-12-13T20:57:00.000-05:00

    Hello!

    This blog was inadvertently named by one of my Facebook friends, Amy. She made a comment about one of my food thoughts and called my interests "Retro Food Kink". Indeed it is. I love old cookbooks and history. My favorite cookbooks are 19th century cookbooks, but I really can't resist any cookbook. I just love them, and always have.

    So now you know why my blog is named Retro Food Kink. I plan to capture my food adventures as I cook recipes from my "retro" cookbooks. Although, some of my entries may not be from any cookbook, but rather from my imagination, only based on old cooking techniques, ingredients, etc. Or it might be an answer to a question such as , " What would Mrs. Bridges do?" [Note: Mrs. Bridges was the cook on Upstairs, Downstairs].

    Beside individual dishes and cooking techniques I am also interested in how food was served. One of my plans is to have a traditional 19th century/early 20th century full twelve course meal. I have read about them, seen them in movies, but I dream of planning, cooking and serving one. I have been working on my menu for over two years and I realize that I will need some help when I finally make it. Have you ever cooked a twelve course meal?

    Lets get on with a recipe. This weekend I made Marrow Pudding. I read about it on HistoricFood.com. So I looked through my cookbooks for various recipes, one of which was in the Mary Randolph cookbook, and surfed around on the web. I discovered that Marrow Pudding is Bread Pudding with marrow. To be honest, when I first saw the recipe I was horrified, but then I became curious. Why would someone think that it would taste good to add bone marrow to a sweet dish? I had to taste it myself.

    This is what I did. I combined several recipes and created a new recipe.

    1 quart of milk
    Lemon peel
    1 t cinnamon
    1/4 t nutmeg
    1/2 powdered cloves
    1/2 c sugar
    8 eggs
    1/2 t salt
    1/2 c of chopped bone marrow
    Loaf of day old bread
    1 c orange marmalade
    3/4 c raisins
    3/4 c chopped dried apricots
    brandy

    1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
    2. Butter a pan. Spread the marmalade on the bread and lay it in the pan like roof shingles. Spread the raisins, apricots and marrow evenly over the bread.
    3. Put the milk, salt, lemon peel and spices in a pan and scald the milk.
    4. Beat the 8 eggs gently and carefully add the hot milk.
    5. Pour the egg mixture over the bread. Let it sit a few moments so the bread has been really soaked with egg mixture. You can use a spoon to gently push the bread down.
    6. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, turn the heat down to 350 degrees and cook another 30-40 minutes until the top is puffed and golden brown.
    7. Remove from oven and let cool. Sprinkle some brandy over the pudding. Serve warm or cold alone or with cream, custard, whatever really.

Try it and let me know how it came out!

Kentie