Revue Magazine

Cardinal Red

2012-02-08T09:00:06-08:00

Rojo (photo by Rudy A. Girón)

This rich red color cries out for attention, from ALTO signs to garden blossoms to a flag announcing fresh meat at the village butcher. No wonder that cardinal signs are used by the big cola companies, a big phone service and most market chains. Your assignment this month, however, is to spot more subtle touches of cardinal-red among the bright blues and greens and browns and whites of Guatemalan towns and farms.

Finding cardinal in the fruit and vegetable markets is easy: apples from the Highlands, red pepper and chili in baskets, fat radishes in neat pyramids. Cardinal coffee berries are mostly picked by now, but enough still dot the fincas to catch the eye of passers-by. Some huipil weavings, such as the woman’s blouses of Patzún, are dazzling cardinal red; other brocades from San Antonio Aguas Calientes weavers have more subtle touches of cardinal.

It’s in gardens and along roadsides that sprinkles of cardinal stand out. Actual cardinals flutter by year-around in the Petén jungles, and macaws preening in their cardinal feathers munch seeds in some hotel-garden cages. Cardinal poppies dot the highway from Mexico to Salvador, springing up in dirt patches from recent slides. Tanagers and woodpeckers flash their cardinal feathers as they take their morning splash in our fountain, while the neighbor’s poinsettias don’t realize that the holidays are over and continue their cardinal show against the white walls.

But the best displays of cardinal in February come in crayon Valentine drawings from a child, and in a bouquet of long-stemmed red roses from a lover. May you be fortunate enough to receive either or both this month in Guatemala!

Interview: Franklin Contreras

2012-02-07T09:31:35-08:00

From building houses out of cardboard boxes in his parents’ electrical store when he was a child, to designing candy stores at the university, Franklin Contreras was always destined to be an architect.

The talented Guatemalan now owns his own firm, which employs over 200 people, and their designs stand out as pieces of art, especially along the streets of La Antigua Guatemala.

Having grown up in the historic city, the architect long ago fell in love with its distinctive Spanish Colonial style.

“It still surprises me every time I go inside a house here; each door hides something new,” says Contreras. “It’s a privilege to work in such a beautiful place: There’s no stress and no problem with traffic slowing down construction.”

Within his work, the Guatemalan architect draws upon Moorish motifs, such as Moroccan brickwork, domed cupolas and water features, to soften the Spanish Colonial style.

After graduating from Francisco Marroquín University, Guatemala City, in the late 1980s, Contreras’ first project was to build a furniture workshop on a plot of land his father had bought him in Antigua. However, it soon became apparent that the young architect had bigger plans: He constructed an elegant two-story building with a central patio and interior gardens, where his company still resides, and from there his career took off.

First he built for foreigners and then for locals, with many clients moving into their homes before they were even completed. Each of his designs is unique and intended to surpass the customers’ expectations. “I like the challenging clients; when people agree with me too often, it’s boring. I like it when people have their own ideas, and I have to find ways to fulfil them,” says Contreras.

Contreras acknowledges his style has changed since he first became an architect over 20 years ago. “I think that over time you’re exposed to different sources of inspiration. I like to travel and that has definitely changed my way of designing spaces and architectural details.”

The designer remains unaware of what makes his style of architecture unique to him. “I don’t know whether it’s the curved ceilings, the materials we work with, or the use of axis that remains a constant, but people often tell me they recognize my designs—I hope that’s a good thing!” he laughs.

Even his modern designs retain their traditional roots and the architect is able to perfect the balance between preserving the traditional and evolving with the fashions.

“Before, kitchens were closed areas for the cook, but now cooking’s become a family activity so I like to design open kitchens and eating areas, which become the heart of the house.”

Contreras believes in maximizing one’s surroundings—he uses roofs as places to entertain friends while enjoying the mountains and volcanoes of Antigua, and internationally, glass walls to provide a contemporary feel while showing off beautiful views in Mexico City.

However, working in a World Heritage site such as Antigua, does come with a few difficulties, and failure to abide by the rules can have costly consequences. CONSEJO, an institution established in 1969 to preserve the city’s heritage, imposes strict limitations on construction within the historic center. For example, there are height limitations, second floors are forbidden and restoration projects are closely monitored.

“It’s complicated working in the center, but if we didn’t have these rules we would have lost the city years ago,” states Contreras. He admits he used to prefer the freedom of working outside the historic center, but now enjoys the challenge of restoring buildings inside it.

In the past, he has designed houses and hotels, many of them in Antigua, but he now wants to do something to benefit the whole community. “We have a special treasure in our country as people still know how to work with their hands,” states Contreras. He hopes that an upcoming project will help artisans to promote their crafts and goods around Antigua.

Stem Cell Therapy

2012-02-04T17:00:25-08:00

The future of curing disease and restoring youth

Your body is in a constant state of renewal. With every breath you take, the stem cells inside your body are renewing and regenerating themselves. These seemingly miraculous cells have the ability to transform themselves into brand new healthy cells to replace the sick or worn out cells in your muscles, organs, tissues, brain, glands, joints and bones—virtually any cell in your body. Many scientific studies now indicate that increasing the number of circulating adult stem cells in your body is probably the single most important thing you can do to maintain optimal health.

Adult stem cells are released from bone marrow into the bloodstream. Then they go searching for tissues and organs in distress. For example, if the heart sends out a cry for help, the traveling stem cells exit the bloodstream, migrate to the heart, multiply and become brand new healthy heart muscle cells to replace the sick or worn out cells.

Dr. Byron Sanchez, medical director of the Medi-Center Stem Cell Research Clinic in zone 10 of Guatemala City, is an oncologist and hematologist with 15 years of experience in stem cell research and transplantation. The highly skilled medical team at Medi-Center offers stem cell transplantation therapy to patients with the same degree of success as any other country in the world, from the United States to South Korea, but at a fraction of the price.

Dr. Sanchez explains the process: Stem cells are derived from the patient’s own bone marrow or umbilical cord. Blood, fat and skin are also excellent sources of stem cells. In adults, these cells are rare, isolated at a rate of about 1 in 1,000. Immunological reconstitution is done by isolating the patient’s natural killer cells, T cytotoxic cells. They are extracted, isolated, stimulated and processed in the laboratory. The new, multi-potent cells are restored to the patient intravenously, in a method much like chelation therapy or dialysis.

With just a few days of treatment and observation, our patients in Guatemala now have the opportunity to live better and longer without resorting to dangerous drugs or invasive surgical techniques.

As an anti-aging property, stem cell regenerative therapies are increasingly used in cosmetic formulations. They work to slow down the aging process of the skin and the supporting muscles to restore not only a youthful appearance, but the vitality and functionality of the organs as well.

In all cases, success rates depend on the patient’s age, lifestyle, genetic composition and metabolism.

The most exciting therapeutic possibility of stem cell transplantation is that it enhances the body’s own natural inclination to heal itself, effectively reversing the effects of disease and aging. We now have the opportunity to live longer, healthier, happier—feeling “good as new.”

written by Lori Shea, medical tourism facilitator

For more information, contact Guatemala Medical Travel at agents@GuatemalaMedicalTravel.com or call 7873-9826 or 5737-3023

Hiking Laguna Chicabal

2012-02-03T17:00:37-08:00

In the Newberry Award-winning book (and Disney movie) Holes, the hero Stanley Yelnats and his friend Zero survive in a barren desert after discovering a hidden lake tucked on top of a mountain. Though Guatemala´s Western Highlands are far from barren, scaling the breathtaking Laguna Chicabal makes you wonder if the author of Holes drew any inspiration from this local gem.

A microbus ride away from Quetzaltenango, the lagoon rests in the collapsed top of a dormant volcano. Not terribly large —perhaps a mile all around—the lagoon impresses visitors at once not only with its sheer beauty, but also with how isolated it is. More northern Minnesota than Lake Atitlán, this is the perfect day trip if you´re staying in the area and one of the few destinations that is probably more popular with locals than tourists.

The hike to Chicabal´s concave peak is a little over a mile from the base. The cloud forest around you and the rolling mountains beyond mean you will be more than happy to stop, and the view provides a better excuse than the elevation. The vista also makes the journey seem like every other Highlands hike—until glimpses of blue through the trees hint at something you´ve never quite seen before.

Part of the laguna´s appeal is its mystical (and mythical) history, a doorway to another world for many Mayas. While we watched from a lookout deck, clouds rose over the bluffs with remarkable speed, gathering strength and body before they twisted downward like an extinguished candle in reverse. Casting shadows that morphed across the water’s surface, it looked as if spirits from above were diving down to converse with creatures rising up from the depths. Before contact, the fog stopped and hovered at the surface, the black creatures below doing the same. The two never touched. Then sunlight broke through and the mist disappeared.

The lagoon impresses visitors at once not only with its sheer beauty, but also with how isolated it is.

The water is surrounded by signs marking the 20 sacred days of the Mayan calendar, translated into both K’iche’ and Mam (and it’s the Mam who find the location particularly hallowed). Because it’s used for rituals and sacrifices, swimming is not allowed. But that doesn´t stop an endless stream of locals from camping out on the surrounding shore. While a friend and I walked around, 20-somethings were setting up tents, families were building bonfires, and women were clustered around crosses with fresh ash at their base.

From Quetzaltenango, a microbus near Parque Benito Juárez can get you to the town of San Martín Chile Verde in about 40 minutes, depending on the traffic. Follow the signs until you reach a dirt parking lot with drivers offering to take you to the park’s official entrance. You don’t have to accept, but the hike will take you 90-plus minutes of uphill gasping, sucking in the dirt from locals who opted for the pickup. We chose the ride. (I was, however, probably ripped off paying a Q100 round-trip fee. Try for a lower fare). You’ll be dropped off near a large soccer field and some unfinished cabins. Pay the Q15 entrance fee, and you’re off to the top.

photos by Blake Nelson

Guatemala: Launch Pad 2012

2012-02-03T13:33:53-08:00

When we moved to Guatemala four years ago, we honestly thought we were on vacation! With each passing day it became evident that there was more to explore in this mystical land, and much more to discover. Everyone was talking about the “2012” experience—and now here we are!

There is a shift that is happening globally with many energies coming into play. Whether you are seeking it or not, the energy that is the heart of Guatemala will reveal itself—if you just give yourself a moment to discover it.

You may find you have the ability to feel things you have not ever felt before. You may touch things you have not ever touched before. How you break free and navigate these core feelings will be influenced by your reactionary system, which is habitual.

We are collectively at the “if not now, when” moment, and the time to let go of old habits is upon us. How and where is your future to go? Where do you want it to go?

While you are in Guatemala exploring the wonders of nature and the smiles of the people around you, this might be the perfect moment to give yourself the gift of loving your life. If you have been looking for the place to find your greater life’s purpose, congratulations, perhaps you have already begun!

written by Sri & Kira

You can contact Sri and Kira at www.sriandkira.com

Why has there been so much speculation about the Mayan 2012 calendar?

2012-02-02T09:00:28-08:00

Calendars reflect how cultures and societies view the organization of time and space over the centuries. Many calendars have emerged and many have disappeared or been modified: the Julian calendar, the Republican calendar, the Gregorian calendar and the Mayan calendar to name a few. Each one involved astronomical calculations and incorporate harvests and religious or spiritual fiestas.

I remember in the late 1970s, we all studied how it would be the “End of the World for the Maya” in 2012; we thought it was “pretty neat” as to how it tied into other doomsday calculations of other cultures. With very little bibliography by Maya writers at the time (in fact none in English), we continued to believe that indeed the world—at least in Mesoamerica—would end in 2012. I have recently referred to this as a “California spin.” Watching a recent TV program on the subject, I noted that the experts were all from California. I wondered why a Maya expert was not a participant!

Talking to the experts, we find it is the end of a Mayan calendar cycle and a rebirth of the Mayan culture for the new cycle. Some great references include: The Order of Days: the Maya World and the Truth about 2012 by David Stuart (Schele Professor of Mesoamerican Art and Writing, University of Texas/Austin), 2012: Science & Prophecy of the Ancient Maya by Mark van Stone, Ph.D., and Ri Rejqalem Kisamaj Ri Ajk’ Exelom Chuqa ‘Ri Ajq’ija by Calixta Gabriel (Maya spiritual guide/Thesis Universidad Rafael Landívar), which are all outstanding. Also, refer to the Dresden Codex.

The Mayan Long Count calendar started at 13.0.0.0.0. (not “0”) in 3113 B.C. and comes to a complete cycle at the winter solstice this year. This marks a new cycle. There are two calendars that work together. The solar year (365 days), known as haab, has 18 months (20 days each) and a five-day period before the next year. A day (q’ij), a 20-day month (winäq), a year (tun), a 20-year cycle (katun) a 52-year cycle (tzolkin) and so forth up to the end of a b’aq tun (Kakchikel spelling). The sacred calendar, known as tzolk’in, has 13 months (20 days each), for a 260-day count. Each day has a nawal, look yours up in the calendar.

The new b’aq tun begins on the winter solstice 2012—time for another fiesta but this one will be BIG!

Shake Your Booty: Carnival in Mazatenango

2012-02-01T09:11:43-08:00

There are special moments when the sheer exuberance and joy of the human spirit, shining so brightly, transcend all the negative forces and we find ourselves walking on air!

Another in a long list of Guatemala’s best-kept secrets is the fantastic annual Carnival of Mazatenango: an event virtually unknown to those outside the Pacific Coast region.

I do not recommend “Mazate” for those who need luxury accommodations and require that everything be according to an orderly schedule. Mazate is typical of the Pacific coastal towns in Guatemala, the hustle and bustle of the multitudes in the sweltering heat can be daunting, and the cacophony of children shouting, buses honking and vendors hawking creates a kaleidoscopic, swirling, sensory barrage that can be disarming for a lightweight or rookie traveler. But for those of you who are adventurous or wish to begin to be so, Mazate may become for you, as it is for me, a magic wonderland.

Carnival is a period of public revelry typically held the week before Lent in accordance with the Catholic calendar. According to some sources the word “carnival” comes from the phrase: “carne para baul” or “meat for the devil” because it was the last lustful celebration and feast before lengthy fasting.

Lent is the period preceding Easter that in the Christian Church is devoted to fasting, abstinence and penitence in commemoration of Christ’s fasting in the wilderness. It runs from Ash Wednesday to Holy Saturday.

Carnival is celebrated all over Guatemala with small parades and events. If a little child sneaks up behind you and breaks a colorful egg stuffed with confetti on your head, this is to be taken as a sign of affection. It is a tradition in Guatemala. So, when you notice people all over the place with confetti in their hair, now you know why. Only in Mazate do we find big carnival parades. They cannot compare in opulence with the events held in Trinidad, Veracruz or Merida. But what the “Mazatecos” lack in financing they make up for with their exuberant spirit. If you look closely, all the costumes are homemade. Mother’s work all year to do the very best with what the family has to create costumes of incredible color and variety for their chil-dren. One costume may be made of white satin adorned with painted peanut shells and other common objects made magical through the ingenuity of its creator. Other girls will be wearing real grass hula skirts likewise painted in psychedelic colors. It is all for maximum fun and the big party of the year for the entire population.

I know now why kings of old were entertained by dancing girls. In my normal life I am a wildlife photographer and it is my job to seek out and photograph the incredible beauty I find in nature. But nothing is more beautiful than to see the girls of carnival dancing through the streets of Mazatenango. During carnival week every day there is something different. There is the children’s parade in the morning, the parade of carnival floats, a horse parade and the wild nocturnal adult parade. The carnival culminates with a masked ball at the municipal salon.

Feb. 3-17: cultural activities and the election of the queens.
Feb. 18-26: more cultural events and parades.
Feb. 21, Tues 9am: Carnival! Beginning at 1a
av., z. 1 the parade ends at the Campo de la Feria. This carnival has been celebrated for 127 years. (For more details/times see DateBook on page 22 and RevueMag.com)

Amazing Sunsets at Finca El Pilar Nature Reserve

2012-02-01T07:00:09-08:00

Extraordinary sunsets in the Volcanic Heights of the Mayan Highlands

Last night the view down to the Pacific coastal plain lit up and came on fire. It looked like the coast was covered in a sea of incandescent lava. My mind was just overwhelmed with the beauty and majesty of the glorious and sublime moment. Ephemeral it was, only lasting for a few minutes. We are all part of this wonderful creation called Earth and how wonderful it is indeed. At this time we are called upon to remember to honor, cherish and defend the natural life systems of our Mother Planet. These photos give a little taste of the Magic World, born every day by the marriage between Father Sun and Mother Earth. The synergistic marriage of Radiation and Gravity is LOVE!

February 2012 in Revue Magazine

2012-02-01T06:00:09-08:00

Mazatenango Carnival by Thor Janson - bushmanollie.com

Hello, thanks for picking up the February issue of Revue. The first-of-the-year is behind us and it’s time to continue on with 2012. With that in mind, we have filled the pages with all kinds of fun stuff to do in Guatemala.

For those who feel the need to dance in the streets (or at least observe others doing so), Thor Janson invites you to Shake Your Booty at the annual Carnival in Mazatenango.

Other travel stories include two interesing locations on Guatemala’s Exotic Pacific Coast by Tara Tiedemann, and a breathtaking spot outside of Quetzaltenango called Laguna Chicabel, written by Blake Nelson.

Anna-Claire Bevan interviewed the well known and very talented designer and architect Franklin Contreras, who shared some of his thoughts and insights.

Dr. Nicholas Hellmuth takes us on a Search for Original Mayan Cotton. And Kathy Rousso fills us in on the tradition of The Chajul Basket.

Elizabeth Bell answers the question, Why has there been so much speculation about the Mayan 2012 calendar? And Ken Veronda searches for subtle touches of Cardinal Red in the Guatemalan countryside.

We happily introduce two new columns this month: 2012 Spirit by Sri & Kira, and Healthy Solutions by Lori Shea.
And as always, throughout the pages are photo gems by our ever-amazing contributing photographers.

Just a reminder, REVUE is I-Pad and Tablet friendly, you can read our pages by just tapping on our website.
Alert: the Revue Monthly Photo Contest begins in March. Send your favorite photo of people to photos@revuemag.com and become eligible to win a prize.

Have fun, and see you online with updates at Facebook.com/RevueMagazine.

—John & Terry Kovick Biskovich

The 2012 Mayan Meetings Beyond the Glyphs: Mayan Inscriptions as Literature

2012-01-31T17:40:23-08:00

After decades of hard work at deciphering Mayan hieroglyphs from c. 300-900 AD, we are left with thousands of texts written in Classic Mayan. How do we go about studying these sources as true texts? What were the different genres of writing, and how did they vary over time and space? How did scribes design their texts rhetorically and visually to convey and highlight information? How does the ancient Mayan literary tradition relate to later literary expressions from the early colonial period and after?

March 12-14—WORKSHOPS: Beginner Hieroglyph (English & Spanish); Advanced Hieroglyph (English); Narrative Structures of Mayan Texts (English)

March 15—SYMPOSIUM: The 2012 Maya Meetings in La Antigua Guatemala will be the first international conference devoted to the topic of ancient Mayan literature. For additional information and updates: www.utmesoamerica.org/maya/; Facebook, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Austin-TX/The-Maya-Meetings/128001023897735?

¡No gracias!

2012-01-25T09:35:56-08:00

It’s very practical…

Face to Face with El Cristo Negro

2012-01-12T16:07:16-08:00

The most important day at the Basilica of Esquipulas is January 15, when many thousands of pilgrims flock from all over Latin America.

Ask most Guatemaltecos what is in Chiquimula and you will invariably receive the reply: “El Cristo Negro,” often followed by, “That is all there is in Chiquimula …” Undaunted by such disparaging remarks and the prospect of a long journey, I set out from Guatemala City on a trip that would end in the Basilica of Esquipulas, face to face with El Cristo Negro (the Black Christ).

The city of Esquipulas is a five-hour drive from the capital in the department of Chiquimula, which is in eastern Guatemala, close to the borders with Honduras and El Salvador. The Catholic faith arrived in the region in 1525, brought by the Conquistadors, and, after intense resistance waged by the indigenous inhabitants, a peace treaty was signed in 1530. After this reconciliation, a church was founded in honor of Santiago, the patron saint of Spain, and it was here that the rise of El Cristo Negro was initiated in 1595.

The sculpture was commissioned the previous year by Bishop Morales, from a Portuguese artist, Quirio Catano, a long-term resident of the area, who was familiar with its particular history.

Two competing versions account for the color of El Cristo Negro. The first explanation suggests that it was the result of an administrative oversight, and that the required color and characteristics of the figure of Christ were not specified to Catano. Catano delivered the finished sculpture in the naturally dark color of the wood it was made from and it was accepted. Another version credits Catano as being a man of grand philosophical vision, who clearly conceived of the black Christ as a work of national importance, a uniquely Guatemalan symbol, that would fuse the suffering inflicted on the native population with that endured by Christ. On a more practical level, he also thought his creation likely to prove a sensation with pilgrims, a presentiment borne out in the five centuries since.

Made from lemon wood and darkened further with the fumes from incense, the Cristo Negro was installed in March 1595. For the next century and a half, it resided in the church of Santiago until, in 1759, it was transported a kilometer or so to the newly built Church of Esquipulas, where it stands today. Upgraded to the status of basilica in 1961, the imposing church was financed by a group of men from La Antigua. Maintained in pristine white with a wonderful brown-orange dome, the Basilica of Esquipulas stands in its own gardens, where visitors relax shaded by enormous palm trees.

Throughout the centuries, numerous miracles have been attributed to El Cristo Negro, and large displays inside the church document these personal stories. In recognition of divine assistance, pilgrims have presented small plaques, expressing gratitude or simply small silver images of the particular body parts healed by El Cristo Negro, and these can be viewed on the approach to the statue itself. While for many centuries, visitors were at liberty to approach and kiss the statue, and did so, fervently, wear and tear (and perhaps common sense) have since dictated that El Cristo Negro retire behind a glass screen; he is now watched over by a security camera.

As I stood there, waiting my turn, pigeons flew in from a hole in the dome, swirling in circles and swooping into the midst of an ongoing service. Nobody paid any notice. The man in front took care as he photographed the statue with his cellphone, and then, after a few silent moments before the figure, he retreated, walking backward away from El Cristo Negro, a traditional Catholic show of respect when visiting such icons.

Walking around the outside of the church, visitors may be surprised to discover a second El Cristo Negro, in a covered area where thousands of candles burn, these offerings tended diligently by a priest. This El Cristo Negro is a recently commissioned replica, a practical measure that permitted the candles to be relocated outside, as over the years they had caused significant damage to the floor of the basilica.

The most important day at the Basilica is the 15th of January, when many thousands of pilgrims flock to Esquipulas from all over Latin America, in scenes reminiscent of Semana Santa in La Antigua. The people come both to request assistance from El Cristo Negro and to fulfill promises to return, made in exchange for assistance that was gratefully received. In years past, it was common for cars and buses to park inside the gardens in the days preceding the 15th, stretching out sheets of tarpaulin and creating an impromptu settlement. Today, a perimeter fence thwarts vehicles, but it is still common for pilgrims to camp in the grounds, to secure a prime spot on the big day. Another practice that is observed is that many visitors, in a display of humility, approach the basilica on hands and knees, crawling the few hundred meters or so, from the entrance to the park, up the steps, and to the church itself, before joining the long lines waiting for their turn with El Cristo Negro.

Having made the journey myself, without knowing what I would find, I was delighted to discover such a magnificent building and so many rich details of the experiences that have occurred there. One cannot help but be impressed by the atmossphere that centuries of reverence and awe have created around the figure of El Cristo Negro, and with the thought of the many thousands who have passed here before, each with their own unique story. While there may be a grain of truth in the notion that all Chiquimula offers visitors by way of attractions is the Cristo Negro at the Basilica of Esquipulas, the church stands as a singular statement of religious faith in Guatemala and a visit there can be at once a pleasure and an inspiration.

Astrophotography in Guatemala

2012-01-09T17:29:54-08:00

We are happy to share with you some marvelous samples of astrophotography from Guatemala captured by the patient lens of Ivan Castro Peña. Just last week we published a time lapse video entitled Una noche en tu gracia made by mister Castro during six different nights in the locations of Alotenango, Amatitlán, Los Pocitos Pacaya, Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa, Mazatenango and Puerto de San José. You can visit Ivan Castro’s blog to learn the technical details and background information behind this gallery at IvanCastroGuatemala.Blogspot.com

Big Changes in Absentee Voting for US Citizens Abroad

2012-01-09T07:30:20-08:00

2012 marks an important election year in the USA. If you are a U.S. citizen living abroad and plan to vote, you need to act now, even if you think you are already registered. New regulations under the Military and Overseas Voter Empowerment Act (MOVE Act) for overseas voting went into effect in 2010.

To vote while you are outside the USA, you must send a completed federal post card application (FPCA) available at www.votefromabroad.org, to your local election official every year. This applies even if you voted in the previous election and you automatically receive a ballot from your local election official.

Why is this important? If an election is challenged, then un-requested ballots will not be counted. You are strongly urged to get in the habit of submitting a new FPCA every January so that you receive ballots for all the elections in which you are eligible during the calendar year and your ballots are counted. Beyond the November general elections held every other year, you may also be eligible to vote in federal or state primary elections, special elections, emergency elections and runoffs.

The first presidential primary contests take place in January 2012. Plan to submit a new FPCA as early as possible, so your election officials will have time to send you an absentee ballot, and you will have time to vote. Because elections are managed individually by all 55 states and territories, there are 55 sets of rules for absentee voting, but the basic steps are simple:

• To vote and request an absentee ballot, fill out the FPCA at www.votefromabroad.org, and mail
it to your local election official in the state or territory in which you are eligible to vote. This can
now be done electronically for many states and territories.
• The election official will approve or reject the FPCA or request additional information.
• If your FPCA is approved, the election official will send you an absentee ballot. Under the
MOVE Act, all states can send the ballot electronically if requested by the voter.
• Vote and return your ballot to your election official by your state’s deadline. Note that the voted
ballot has to be sent by surface mail from your Guatemala address.
To successfully vote absentee, you should:
• Allow plenty of time to request, receive and return your ballot.
• Notify your local election official each time your mailing address changes.
• Become familiar with the absentee voting laws, procedures and deadlines for your state or terri-
tory to make sure your ballot is properly executed and will be counted.
• Note for Democrats: If you vote in your state’s 2012 primary for Congress members, do not vote in the presidential portion of the primary ballot. You can only vote in one presidential primary, and we want you to participate in Democrats Abroad’s primary, which will be held in Guatemala in May 2012. See www.democratsabroad.org/resources, (scroll down to state parties) for information regarding Democratic Senate and House primaries in your state.

Regardless of your political party or interests, we are ready to assist you in determining how procedures apply to you, so please feel free to contact Democrats Abroad Guatemala at mayadems@yahoo.com, or at 7832-4581. For additional information see: http://travel.state.gov/travel/living/overseas_voting/overseas_voting_4754.html

Time-lapse video: Sunset at Lake Izabal

2012-01-06T14:28:20-08:00

Here’s another time-lapse video made by Roberto Quesada, but this time he captured the sunset at Lake Izabal. Enjoy!

Time-lapse video: Sunset at Lake Atitlán

2012-01-04T22:39:19-08:00

One of our favorites photographers from Guatemala, Roberto Quesada, has prepared this time-lapse video of a winter sunset at Lake Atitlán. Enjoy!

Amazing time-lapse video: Una noche en tu gracia

2012-01-02T00:00:43-08:00

Long-time Revue collaborator Ivan Castro Peña has produced this time-lapse video based on 4,000 photographs that he took during six different nights in the locations of Alotenango, Amatitlán, Los Pocitos Pacaya, Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa, Mazatenango and Puerto de San José. You can visit Ivan Castro’s blog to learn the technical details behind the production of this video at IvanCastroGuatemala.Blogspot.com.

9th Annual Photo Issue of Revue Magazine

2011-12-31T23:00:29-08:00

A good snapshot stops a moment from running away. —Eudora Welty

January 2012 in Revue Magazine

2011-12-31T22:00:31-08:00

Sosteniendo el mundo by Guillermo Rafael Cuyún Figueroa - www.flickr.com/photos/elguie/

88 photographs grace the pages this month of our 9th Annual Photo Issue. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do. There are interesting, beautiful and thought-provoking images sent to us by recreational and professional photographers alike.

We sincerely thank all of you who submitted photos this year. We received a few after the deadline, and those we will include in future issues in the coming months.

This year’s photos and past photo issues are available for viewing on our website at RevueMag.com where you can also find a useful Business Directory, maps, videos, a cultural calendar, and a host of articles.
From all of us at Revue…

Happy New Year 2012!

—John & Terry Kovick Biskovich

The Zen of Tiempo, Vez & Rato

2011-12-26T05:00:50-08:00

Some of us Anglophones disdain the phrase ‘at this point in time’ It is a redundancy that probably made its inventor look articulate but which today is so much filler. I once had a supervisor who had very little to say, but she never had to pausebecause she could always use these five syllables when a more word-frugal person could simply say ‘now’ or (when emphasis was needed) ‘right now.’

But if you have been in Central America long enough, the geometric implication of this phrase has a special significance. Think of a point on a number line (called T for time), which has a fixed beginning and, in the other direction, an arrow indicating openness. In our parts, this ‘point in time’ is a like a bead on an abacus, subject to jiggling by anyone who can reach it.

When the handyman says he will be over at las cuatro horas, this likely does not mean four o’clock. In theory it could, but experience will teach you that the reality is otherwise. Four o’clock, as you understand it, is las cuatro en punto. The word punto is, of course, kin to our word, point. Do you see my, um, point?

This immediately raises the question of what plain old las cuatro means. As near as I can tell, it is anything from the theoretical fixed beginning (4:00) to 4:59. If the handyman really thinks he cannot make it by 4:59, and if he is a man of good faith, he should tell you las cinco. Time flies—el tiempo vuela.

All this has less to do with zenniness in the language than with custom. Most of the Hispanic world is closer than we are to a past when psychiatrists did not charge $120 an hour (or some tax accountants up to double that). If you got the handyman to your house, and he fixed the toaster by sundown, well, then, you both got something done that day.

Spanish has two basic words for time. Vez defines the point on the number line marking the handyman’s visit. Tiempo describes the space between his arrival and his departure. The former is, perhaps nine times in ten, seen in plural form, veces. The latter is almost always singular. Veces are instances, recurrences, occasions; tiempo is the abstraction, the thing that is invested cada vez (each time) we do something.

You would not ask someone ‘cuántos tiempos’ does she call her mom in Tulsa each week, but ¿Cúantas veces a la semana llamas a tu mami? Note that vez is feminine, which makes it easy to recall that Father Time is not ‘El Padre Vez.’ The common phrases algunas veces and a veces have a nuanced difference that apparently parallels that between ‘sometimes’ and ‘at times.’ But for ‘sometime” or ‘someday’ I find algún día works, except when my wife is asking when we can hire a babysitter so we can dine romantically at Circus Bar—something we should do de vez en cuando (from time to time).<

To express ‘awhile,’ ‘a time,’ or ‘a season,’ you need tiempo. Another word, rato, also means while, but only short whiles. If the handyman fixes the toaster while you wait, that is un rato. But if it takes him all week, with ordering parts and whatnot, then he needs un tiempo or más tiempo.

But tiempo is an overworked word. Not, by any means, as overworked as time. But there is something zenny in el tiempo being the word for ‘the weather.’ There is some logic to this, since weather changes with time. Yet el tiempo describes what things will be like for the next rato, or the rest of the day or week. When we speak of weather in cyclical or geographic contexts, the word is el clima. This is cognate, of course, with our word climate. If Aunt Mavis is coming to Guatemala to visit for a week, you need to tell her about el tiempo. But if she’s coming to retire or open a massage clinic in Panajachel, tell her about el clima.

Reader, I’ve run out of tiempo (Se me acabó el tiempo). ¡Hasta la próxima vez!

photo: Time after time by Akors (cc license)

Sights and Sounds of Christmastime in Guatemala

2011-12-25T05:00:51-08:00

Ventas navideñas de los campos del Roosevelt (photo by Roberto Urrea)

Christmas colors in Guatemala don’t stop with red and green, and dreams of a white Christmas must also include the entire rainbow. Yes, the brilliant red poinsettias and fragrant green pine needles, the ripe red berries and deep green leaves of the coffee trees, give all Central America the traditional Christmas colors of much of the world, but holidays in Guatemala don’t stop there.

Despite the usual spring-like weather, under a deep bowl of sky-blue, every other color comes to brighten December in Guatemala. Fire-red begins the month, with bright bonfires flaming against deep dark skies on the night of December 7 with the Quema del Diablo, the Burning of the Devil. Meanwhile, plants and trees that don’t bloom in the winter of the northern hemisphere burst into Christmas colors for Central America: purple jacarandas, scarlet pie-de-gallos, bright little yellow gourds, golden manzanillas in bead-like strings and, of course, roses and carnations in every shade, creamy lilies and brilliant bougain-villea climbing the sunlit white walls to mix with the red tile roofs.

To see the full range of December shades, look at the woven head-baskets atop Mayan ladies in the markets and along the streets, filled with color to festoon their homes and to weave between windows on the buses, signifying the holidays. There may be a golden pineapple and orange-green citrus, some yellow or green squash and red tomatoes and generally bunches of fresh flowers for the table and home.

December is more a month of family celebrations than a commercial time, though red-suited Santas and green plastic trees sprinkle the streets by courtesy of some businesses. It’s in homes, at the back of little stores, at the entrances of hospitals and churches, that one finds the special blend of colors for a Guatemalan Christmas.

Nacimientos, nativity scenes that sometimes take up half the space of a family’s home, mix grey and silver mosses, green pine, golden little mountains and buildings, even sometimes flowing water, miniature people and animals and a tiny crib covered with a rich white cloth. Only at midnight on Christmas Eve does the youngest child of the family lift off the white cloth to the prayers of the others watching, unveiling the golden little child in the cradle.

Sounds are so important on Christmas Eve, too, loud sounds, part of the holiday. Marimbas lead dances all evening, with church bells incessantly ringing as midnight approaches. Then giant bombs, strings of firecrackers and shattering mortar blasts take over to temporarily deafen those too close and to echo in every part of town. But Christmas colors continue that night in the homes, brown tones of hot chocolate or coffee in the family’s best cups, grapes and apples in many shades and especially tamales colorados.

Christmas without red tamales would be like-well, it just wouldn’t be. Every family kitchen has been busy making the special holiday treat, ready for this evening, the deep green wrapper holding soft brown meal stuffed with maroon and purple meats. A tamal for everyone is important, to share with friends and the whole neighborhood.

Christmas Day and evening quiets down, but the year-end holidays don’t stop, flowing on into January, even to the start of Lent. Why should colorful nacimientos be limited to December or the celebrations end with the Rose Parade or Super Bowl as in the North? Many of the nativity scenes are too delightful to go quickly and too symbolic to lose in a home. Green pine and red poinsettias continue for weeks as bright decorations. The rainbow colors of Guatemala are for every day of the year, with a special mix of traditional colors saved for these weeks of joyful holiday

photo: Ventas navideñas de los campos del Roosevelt by Roberto Urrea (cc license)

Traditions: Posadas and Nacimientos

2011-12-23T23:00:33-08:00

Guatemalan Nativity scene (photo by Rudy A. Giron)

Nacimiento Shrine Niche at Capilla de Belén

The nacimiento is still the star of the show in Guatemala. What is now the most important celebration of the year came to the Americas with the Spanish Christian evangelists. The Guatemalans, already an innately spiritual people closely in tune with nature and in whom creativity thrives, had no trouble adapting to the new religious event. The timing was good. Ancient customs and beliefs surrounding the solstice took place at about the same time on the calendar as that established by the Church in the 3rd and 4th centuries for events surrounding the birth of Christ.

On the 15th of December the images of Mary and Joseph take to the streets, carried on platforms in small processions called posadas. The faithful follow with torches and candles, singing as they go to the rhythmic beating on turtle shells and high pitches played on clay pipes, both very important to the tradition. The images leave their places in the nacimientos of churches, homes and business establishments to enact the journey of the young couple from Nazareth to Bethlehem to register their citizenship, along with the rest of the population, in the town of their birth. But the young woman is soon to deliver a child, and it’s tough finding lodging for the rest she urgently needs.

There is a ritual of song, as they knock on doors pleading for hospitality, first a verse from the crowd outside, then an answer from those inside the door who tell them to go away. In singsong cruelty, the couple is told, “This is not an inn; move on and don’t bother us. Don’t be a rascal.” Another plea comes from outside, “Don’t be unkind; have a heart. God will reward you.” Again the refusal, “Don’t make me angry. Go.”

At last they come to the place that will shelter the couple for the night, prearranged for the posada, of course. Joseph pleads, “I am a carpenter from Nazareth. My name is Joseph, and my wife is Mary. She will be the mother of the Divine.”

Well, now we’re getting someplace. From the inside, “You are Joseph?! You are Mary?! Come in pilgrims! Come in, not only to our poor house but to our hearts!” It is in fact a great honor for a household to keep the images until the following evening, when they process from that place in the same way as the night before to the next place of lodging. And so it goes every night until December 24, when the images return to their place of origin and where the baby Jesus is placed with them.

Posadas are heard on the streets of cities, towns and villages any night as Christmas approaches and are adaptable to the situation. A fine hotel arranged its own posada, moving the images from place to place within its facilities, and invited guests to participate. One night in 2004 the posada from San Francisco Church in La Antigua fittingly stopped at Casa de Fe, a hospitality house of Obras Sociales del Hermano Pedro.

Oh yes, important to the nightly posadas are the refreshments offered at each home where the couple finds shelter. The air is filled with the aroma of Christmas punch, pineapple, coconut, raisins and other dried fruits, remnant of the Moorish culture brought with the Spaniards.

Cultural interchange characterizes Christmas around the world, and Guatemala contributes more than its share with the abundance of colors and fragrances of natural materials to make the season bright.

photos: Nativity Scenes by Rudy A. Girón (cc license)

Elizabeth Bell receives Orden Diego de Porres award

2011-12-15T07:24:53-08:00

The Orden Diego de Porres – Gold Award – was awarded to Elizabeth Bell at Capuchinas by the Consejo Nacional Para la Proteccion de La Antigua Guatemala on December 1st. The following is the speech she gave following the presentation.

Autoridades eclestiásticas y civiles, Miembros del Consejo Nacional para la Protección de la Antigua Guatemala, Conservador de La Ciudad, y amigos todos, quiero agradecer su asistencia a la Entrega de la Orden “Diego de Porres” en grado de Gran Venera. Reconozco que esta es la Máxima Condecoración otorgada, lo que me llena de emoción.

Al venir a esta hermosa ciudad en 1969, me sorprendió que realmente hubiera tan poca información de la ciudad al alcance del público en general. Muchos me decían que La Antigua se había construido en 1543 y al destruirse completamente, en 1773, fue abandonada ¡y ya, aquí estamos!

Recuerdo cuando el arquitecto Roberto Ogarrio, nos visitó en el Club Antigüeño en 1969 para explicar un poco sobre la conservación de la ciudad y que estaba por aprobarse la Ley Protectora. Realmente nadie entendía de qué se trataba la conservación de la ciudad colonial. La duda más “alarmante” entre los asistentes, fue cuando alguien preguntó que si era cierto que el Consejo iba a pintar TODA la Antigua de blanco — con lo que iba a parecer cementerio — y que si el Consejo quería ‘”congelar la ciudad y hacerla un Museo Vivo”. El arquitecto Ogarrio, explicó que no iban a pintar nada… Entonces, ¿que iban a hacer? ¿Para qué una ley? ¿Quién iba a creer que la ciudad se iba a convertir en centro turístico si todo estaba en ruinas?

Al haber crecido en Palo Alto, California, entre la creación de música rock y el nacimiento de las computadoras, crecí en un ambiente de inquietudes… de la pregunta: “Por qué, por qué es así”, por lo que a través de los años quise entender más de mi nuevo hogar.

Cuando el Consejo inició sus funciones en 1972, junto a mi esposo, Julio Aceituno, contratado como el Primer Inspector de Monumentos, nos tocó, participar en los primeros trabajos y el retiro de los rótulos y propaganda comercial. Poco a poco empezamos a ver los cambios, incluyendo la limpieza de los monumentos de la ciudad.

En 1978, al redactar la primera edición del libro “Antigua Guatemala”, con Trevor Long, empezamos a ponerle atención a todos los detalles posibles de los monumentos, en compañía de mi amigo y colega, Enrique Barascout. Fue fascinante.

En el mismo año, yo empecé a trabajar en el Consejo. Me recuerdo cuando Betsy Montealegre me entregó sus tarjetas informativas con todas las fechas de la ciudad. Realmente pensé que iba a ser imposible aprendérmelas todas – pues – parecía una obra titánica!! Poco a poco, y con la ayuda de los grandes investigadores y promotores de la conservación de esta ciudad, Luis Lujan, Roberto Aycinena, Margarita Estrada, Alejandro Flores, Donald del Cid, Hugo Cerezo Dardón, Jorge Lujan, Cristina de Lujan, Miguel Álvarez, Celso Lara, William Swezey, Rodolfo Asturias, José María Magaña Juárez y muchos profesionales más……me sentí cómoda al lado de quienes siempre querían saber más de la ciudad y conservarla. ¡Nos unía un profundo amor por esta ciudad!

Como profesora, comprendí la necesidad de enseñar a los niños acerca de la importancia de entender y amar la ciudad y empecé los talleres y recorridos escolares a través de los programas culturales del Consejo, en los que participaron más de 10,000 alumnos al año, pues al final de cuentas, soy Profesora por profesión y por pasión.

A través de mis libros, quise plasmar información que estuviera al alcance de todos, en un lenguaje no-tan-académico para que todos pudiera degustar de la ciudad, como yo lo había aprendido a hacer. Como profesora, también vi la necesidad de llevar esa información a toda la población, no sólo a una elite académica o cultural, sino al alcance de todos.

En 1983, mis estudios en el ICCROM, Roma, pusieron en evidencia que en La Antigua Guatemala se llevaba a cabo una de las mejores restauraciones del mundo, y que el Consejo la había puesto a la par de cualquier ciudad monumental. Adquirir conciencia de eso me dio orgullo y renovó mi interés por seguir trabajando en beneficio de nuestra amada Antigua.

En 1996, tuve la oportunidad de colaborar con el rescate de la obras pictóricas del Museo de Arte Colonial durante siete años, y desde hace otros siete años, en la restauración de las pinturas de San José Catedral a través de colaboraciones económicas obtenidas de varias fuentes, lo mismo que producto de los recorridos culturales que inicié en 1992.

A lo largo de los años, también me ha encantado ser co-fundadora de las Asociaciones que velan por el cuidado de la ciudad, tales como Salvemos Antigua, Asociación Cerro de la Cruz, Fundación Cultural Duane Carter y Asociación Destino Antigua, entre otras. El futuro de la Ciudad está en manos de los vecinos, quienes, ahora, cuentan con mayor capacidad que antes para velar por la ciudad, lo que es sumamente satisfactorio.

En las últimas semanas me ha llenado de un placer profesional increíble, ver los esfuerzos de los residentes y vecinos antigüeños, porque Palacio de los Capitanes Generales mantenga un uso digno y siga siendo sede del poder público local. Para mí es ver, en plena flor, el fruto de los esfuerzos de muchos a través de tantos años. Realmente se trata de un acto cívico encomiable y ejemplar.

Defiendo la Conservación y Desarrollo Positivo de la Ciudad porque creo en ella, de la misma manera que creo en la labor del Consejo Nacional para la Protección de La Antigua Guatemala. Si no hubiera sido por el Consejo, no me puedo imaginar QUÉ hubiera pasado con nuestra amada ciudad, ¡ni me lo quiero imaginar!

Desde hace algunas semanas, cuando Miguel Torres me notificó el alto honor que se me haría en esta celebración, he reflexionado sobre tantas cosas que han pasado a lo largo de los 42 años que tengo de conocer y dar a conocer la Ciudad y su conservación, que me han mantenido entre la nubes de gratos recuerdos.

Me siento agradecida al estar al lado de la Familia del arquitecto Roberto Ogarrio Marín, quien con su entusiasmo y dedicación, embarcó a toda una generación de jóvenes antigüeños -de aquel entonces- en la tarea de salvaguardar la ciudad monumental.

Todo eso me llena de emoción y estimula a continuar con la labor. Deseo y Esperaría que en el futuro, al mencionar mi nombre, quien lo escuche, lo primero que piense sea en la importancia de CONOCER, SALVAR y VELAR por el futuro positivo de esta ciudad, con la misma intensidad con que yo lo hago.

Esta condecoración la recibo llena de satisfacción y la dedico a mis hijos, Julio y Alexander. Lo hago a manera de compensación, pues mientras fueron chiquitos les dejé de dar inestimable tiempo que dediqué a rescatar y valorar un patrimonio cultural que llegó a tener reconocimiento universal, con la esperanza de dejarles esta ciudad, única en el mundo, en mejores condiciones de las que yo la recibí.

A nivel profesional, se la dedico al arquitecto José María Magaña Juárez con quien, desde 1979, hemos mantenido una constante colaboración en la tarea de dar a conocer la ciudad y ciudarla.

Sin ellos, este momento no hubiera sido posible.

Realmente estoy conmovida – pues esta Condecoración es la más alta que el Estado de Guatemala da en el ámbito de la Conservación de La Antigua Guatemala- ¡lo que además, me llena de emoción!

Spices

2011-12-13T23:14:41-08:00

Spices are important in Guatemalan cooking, especially in many sweets and drinks around the holidays. Spice colors are rich in the landscape this month also, which seems fitting as spices were what the Europeans sought when they first sailed west to bump into these shores. Guatemala produces some spices, but joins the rest of the world in adding clove, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and other spice flavorings and aromas to holiday cooking. Meanwhile, Highland hillsides and gardens are brushed this month with such spice colors as tans, golden yellows, browns, reds and greens.

Dona Catalina puts handfuls of cloves and ginger into her Christmas fruit punch. Dona Audrey makes a savory midnight cake with fresh vanilla extract from local beans. Dona Amanda always adds sticks of cinnamon to cups of her thick, hot chocolate. And of course many Guatemalans serve black, smoky cardamom seeds with their brewed coffee.

Cardamom is a major Guatemalan export. This country edged out Nepal a few years ago to be the world’s leading producer of cardamom seeds, pods and powder to flavor Indian, Nordic, Middle Eastern and other worldwide cuisines. Cumin is also a big export, and is used in many Guatemalan recipes. Mayan tradition says eating some cumin each day keeps both chickens and lovers from straying. We’ve not tested that, but if the Maya say so, it must be true.

Fenugreek grows here too. Maybe you don’t recognize this spice growing wild along the roads, but you’d know the flavor in many dishes. Fenugreek aroma is like maple, as people in New York City learned when a fenugreek extract processor across the Hudson spread the scent throughout the city, just as fenugreek added to Guatemalan recipes fills the kitchen with that pungent maple-syrup odor.

Surely the spiciest addition to Guatemalan holidays is the cobanero chili from Alta Verapaz, hotter than many poor gringo mouths can tolerate, but forming a perfect color combination when woven into holiday wreaths. Cobanero is a shiny green pepper when young, turning into a finger of deep red when mature, colors blending into a perfect holiday decoration as well as chili adding an unforgettable flavor to spicy dishes, if you’re up to the heat.

Spice flavors and spice colors are all around you to enjoy as you wait to hear spicy salsa music at holiday celebrations. Take it all in with your taste buds, eyes and ears. Just be careful with even a touch of cobanero chili should you have a little cut!

Quetzaltenango’s Mount Olympus

2011-12-13T11:13:01-08:00

View of Quetzaltenango from the summit of Volcán Santa María (photo by Kristen Moser)

From many viewpoints in Guatemala’s western Highlands, the Volcán Santa María stands like a sentinel overlooking its kingdom. Wrapped in a vortex of clouds, the volcano is a constant reminder to the population of Quetzaltenango and environs of its eruption a century ago that almost completely destroyed Guatemala’s second largest city. Yet today, Santa María stands as one of the most rewarding–and difficult–climbs in all of Central America.

Soon after moving to Guatemala, I signed up to climb Quetzaltenango’s Mount Olympus. The ascent was brutal, less “leisurely hike” and more “clawing your way up a cliff face.” The task is complicated by how high you’re going: Quetzaltenango alone sits at 7,500 ft., and over the next three to five hours you’ll be scaling another 5,000 ft.

It doesn’t help that you will probably be passed by lines of Maya women wearing plastic sandals, balancing packages on their heads. This happened a few times while I was bent over sucking air, and was reminded of getting passed years earlier by a Girl Scout troop while climbing Half Dome in Yosemite National Park. Neither were my proudest moments.

Those same women will most likely be heading to the summit for a religious ceremony combining ancient Mayan traditions, Roman Catholicism or Pentecostal worship into a unique combination often called costumbre. The circles of chanting women form part of Guatemala’s incredible cultural tapestry, and are unforgettable to witness.

But upon reaching the top yourself, you will at least momentarily forget about them, because there are few places on Earth that can compare to this view. The 360 degree panorama lets you see the bottom of the Sierra Madre in Mexico, the border of Belize, and the flickering waves of the Pacific. Even on an overcast day, you’ll be so far above the clouds you’ll feel like Zeus, presiding over your distant subjects below.

Many will argue you haven’t truly done Santa María until you’ve completed the midnight hike, which is exactly what it sounds like: choose a full moon night, begin climbing at one in the morning, and watch the sunrise light up the continent from the best box seats around. Just prepare for a freezing hike up.

After reaching the top I fell asleep on my back. This was a mistake, since at over 12,000 ft. the peak of Santa María and the surface of the sun are old buddies. I woke up with the front of my neck so red that one of my students would later remark, “Mister, you look like a quetzal.”

The hike down, while considerably shorter, can be pretty brutal on your knees. Wear good shoes, and be prepared with a poncho (if it’s the rainy season) or warm clothes if you’ve picked anytime during the dry season. There’s no entrance fee, but since the path can be a bit unclear an organization like Quetzaltrekkers is a good idea for a first timer. Never try it alone, especially since there have been sporadic reports of hikers being robbed near the base.

Guatemala offers tons of hiking options, including the larger Volcán Tajumulco farther north. But nothing compares to Santa María’s proximity to a great city at the bottom and breathtaking view at the top. Pack lots of water, a good camera, and remember sun screen on your neck.

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Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe in Antigua Guatemala

2011-12-12T21:59:29-08:00

Throughout the country children dress in typical clothing paying homage to the Virgen de Guadalupe. One such procession begins at La Merced Church at 3pm. Typical food for sale outside the church, La Antigua.

Photos by Rudy Girón

The Noche Before Christmas

2011-12-11T23:00:33-08:00

Twas the night before Christmas
and all through the casa,
Not a creature was stirring ¡Caramba! ¿Qué pasa?
Los niños were tucked away in their camas,
Some in long underwear, some in pijamas,
While hanging the stockings with mucho cuidado,
In hopes that old Santa would feel obligado,
To bring all children, both buenos and malos,
A nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard there arose un gran grito,
and I jumped to my feet like a frightened cabrito.
I ran to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world do you think that it era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero,
Came dashing along like a loco bombero.
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volando.
I watched as they came and this quaint little hombre,
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre:
“Ay Pancho, ay Pepe, ay Cuco, ay Beto,
ay Chato, ay Chopo, Maruco, y Nieto!”
Then standing erect with his hands on his pecho,
He flew to the top of our very own techo,
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala,
He filled all the stockings with lively regalos,
None for the niños that had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud, seeming very contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone como el viento,
And I heard him exclaim, y ¡esto es verdad!
Merry Christmas to all, ¡y Feliz Navidad!

Editor’s note: No one seems to know for sure who wrote this Spanglish version of the poem. We’ve re-printed it a few times over the years, and still find it amusing.

Santa Cruz La Laguna

2011-12-08T23:00:57-08:00

text/photos by Carla Berryhill

I have been to Lake Atitlán several times since moving to Guatemala. For me, there really is no one town or village on the lake that stands out more than the other because I think they are all interesting, beautiful and unique—but, my personal favorite is Santa Cruz La Laguna. There are no roads to Santa Cruz so visitors must hop in a lancha, (water taxi) from one of Lake Atitlán’s larger towns.

The little municipalidad of Santa Cruz sits high above the lake, tranquil and picturesque. After walking up the steep calle to reach the town, visitors will be wowed by the most amazing views.

Every time I visit Santa Cruz, I marvel at all there is to do: relax, swim, follow the trail to Jaibalito for lunch or go all the way to San Marcos, hike up to a waterfall, take a back-strap weaving course from one of the local women, or hop on a lancha to San Pedro and go horseback riding, visit the town of Santiago Atitlán, cruise the streets of San Juan de la Laguna and see the array of women’s co-ops that keep traditional weaving and dyeing skills alive—the list goes on.

Traveler Beware: Santa Cruz La Laguna may be habit forming!

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Historic sites in Guatemala, Belize on global watch list

2011-12-07T23:00:16-08:00

The Mayan ruins of Quiriguá in Izabal and El Zotz in Petén, as well as the historic architecture of Belize City, have been included on the World Monuments Fund (WMF) 2012 Watch, a list of cultural heritage sites around the world at risk of damage or destruction from a variety of threats.

With a mission of preserving the world’s architectural heritage of significant monuments, buildings and sites, the WMF listed 67 locations in 41 countries in its 2012 Watch. Three Central American locations were included:

Quiriguá
An archaeological site dating to the Mayan Classic period, Quiriguá is a complex of pyramids, terraces and stairways. The site is best known for its superb sculptures, including outstanding stelae. Quiriguá was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1981.

Quiriguá’s long-term preservation is challenged by a number of factors, according to the WMF. Illegal timber extraction and deforestation from farming have greatly increased the risk of flooding, as more than 70% of the forest cover in the surrounding valley has been lost. While a management plan has been developed to help, implementation is constrained by limited resources and encroachment of surrounding private industry.

El Zotz
Nestled in the dense forest of the Biotopo San Miguel la Palotada, the Mayan archaeological site of El Zotz features pyramids, palaces, plazas, and a ball court.

Deforestation and looting pose constant challenges, according to WMF. A pyramid is in danger of collapse from unstable trees, and the progressive erosion in a looter’s trench is damaging the stucco façades of structures. Many tourists visit El Zotz as part of tours to nearby Tikal.

Belize City
Established in the mid-17th century as a trading post for precious woods, Belize City has many colonial buildings that are quickly deteriorating, according to WMF. An inventory and protection strategies are greatly needed to ensure the preservation of these historically significant houses, the group said.

For more information visit www.wmf.org

Photos courtesy of Arturo Godoy (www.arturogodoy.com) & Dirección General de Patrimonio Cultural y Natural del Ministerio de Cultura y Deportes of Guatemala.

Harry Danvers Art Exhibit

2011-12-07T12:43:55-08:00

8 Thurs. through the end of the month — Art Exhibit Rabinal Achi by Harry Danvers at Casa N’oj in Quetzaltenango. A visual representation in miniature paintings of the ancient Maya dance-play Rabinal Achi.

HARRY THOMAS DANVERS did not begin his artistic career until he arrived in Guatemala in the early 70s. There he began to study drawing in the Escuela Nacionalde Artes Plasticas in Guatemala City. His teacher was Juan Antonio Franco, who in addition to have studied in Europe also worked on a lot of murals of Diego Rivera in Mexico.

Harry speaks five languages, including Maya’ K’iche, and is a professor of English and Anthropology at the University of San Carlos in Quetzaltenago. He is the author of 11 novels, and 6 bilingual books. In the year 2000 he won the Arturo Martinez national art contest in landscape.

Casa N’oj (tel: 7768-3139) is located at 7a. calle 12-12 zona 1, Quetzaltenango

See also http://guatemalan-art.com/