Rick's San Francisco Journal

The Inner Mission - Food

2009-07-07T15:06:00.000-07:00

I recently wrote about some of the sights in the Inner Mission, one of San Francisco's vibrant neighborhoods. If you're a foody, you'll certainly want to head to the Inner Mission to sample some great food.

You could spend your entire visit eating on the block of 18th Street between Guerrero and Dolores Streets where you'll find Delfina Restaurant, Delfina Pizzeria, Bi-Rite Market, Bi-Rite Creamery, and Tartine Bakery. Delfina Restaurant is one of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco. The Pizzeria has terrific, thin-crust pizza. Unfortunately, there's almost always a wait to get into the Pizzeria. Bi-Rite Market is home to more gourmet food products per square foot than just about anyplace on earth. The Creamery makes small lots of oh-so-tasty ice cream. Tartine produces some of San Francisco's best pastries. Here too, there is usually a line, and seating is limited.

Range is a small restaurant on Valencia Street producing some of the city's best American food. Little Star Pizza is another great spot for thin-crust pizza. Want to watch on old flick with your dinner? If so, visit Foreign Cinema on Mission Street. Never enjoyed south Indian cuisine? Try Dosa. The neighborhood is full of Taquerias and other small, ethnic places featuring food from Mexico, Central America, India and Pakistan, Thailand, Vietnam, Ethiopia, and China. Lastly, there's a coffee shop every 100 yards. For a local roast, try Ritual Coffee Roasters at 1026 Valencia Street.

If you'd like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Fresh Seafood Near Monterey's Cannery Row

2009-06-23T10:20:00.000-07:00

Recently a guest on a Monterey tour wanted to eat at a place like an East Coast seafood shack after visiting the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Unfortunately, such places are tough to find in Northern California and are nonexistent on the Monterey Peninsula, as far as I know.

Cannery Row has long been known as a very touristy strip of shopping centers selling T-shirts and other souvenirs. The area is not well known for good food. Zagat only lists a couple of restaurants near Cannery Row and neither of these had views or were open for lunch.

However, I found a seafood market, a couple of blocks from Cannery Row, that had a good review for its restaurant on Yelp. While my guests toured the Aquarium, I checked out the Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant. It looked just like the type of place my guests wanted except that it doesn't have a view. We decided to give it a try at lunch and were not disappointed.

When you walk into the Sea Harvest, you'll see an array of fresh fillets lined up in the counter and lobsters swimming in a nearby tank. The decor is simple; lots of seafood posters and fish shaped cake pans and Jello molds. The food is simple, mostly grilled and fried fish. Four of us had grilled fish and all enjoyed perfectly done fish. You can order the grilled fish with rice, a vegetable, and cole slaw; over a Caesar Salad; or on a sandwich with fries. Fried fish comes with chips. We also had some barbecue oysters for a starter.

Next time you are visiting Cannery Row, skip the touristy places on the water and walk to 598 Foam Street for a fresh seafood lunch. If you would like to take a private tour of Monterey and Carmel that includes lunch at the Sea Harvest, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

The Inner Mission - Sights

2009-06-18T08:55:00.000-07:00

The Inner Mission is one of my favorite neighborhoods in San Francisco but is frequently overlooked by visitors. Perhaps the urban grit is a bit too much for some folks. I think a walk through the neighborhood gives you a good feel for daily life for many city residents. Plus there are interesting sights, fun shops, and excellent restaurants.

Where is the Inner Mission? San Franciscans frequently argue over neighborhood boundaries and, more recently, their names. For the purpose of this series of postings, I'll consider the Inner Mission to be the area bounded by Market Street on the north, Church Street on the west, 24th Street on the south, and South Van Ness on the east.

The principal sight in the area is Mission Dolores (aka Mission San Francisco de Asis). This is one of the 21 missions established by the Spanish in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The mission was constructed in 1791 and is the oldest building in San Francisco. You can take a self-guided tour through the old mission. Mission Dolores charges $5/adult and $3/child and senior to enter. Visitors are welcome from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from May 1 to October 31 and to 4:00 p.m. during the balance of the year.

The original mission was built on the shore of Lago de los Dolores. Both the building and the lake are long gone, but a plaque marks the spot on Albion Street, near the intersection with Camp Street, about 1 1/2 blocks from the current mission.

The Mission District is home to hundreds of murals. The most famous may be MaestraPeace on the Women's Building at 3543 18th Street. The mural was painted in 1994 by a group of women and covers two sides of the building. A number of famous and not-so-famous women are depicted. A guide to the mural is available inside the Women's Building.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Northern California: An Explorer's Guide

2009-06-08T09:08:00.000-07:00

This new guidebook, written by San Francisco resident, Michele Bigley, was just released on June 1. It's a great resource for travel in San Francisco, the Bay Area, and all of Northern California - from Big Sur to the Oregon border.

Here's what Michele had to say about Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel, "A wealth of knowledge, Rick takes folks on customized tours of the Bay Area, Wine Country, Central Coast, Mendocino, and even the Sierra Foothills. You tell him what you want and he'll create the ideal trip. He knows more about wine and food than most."

Many thanks to Michelle for the nice review. If you're planning a trip to San Francisco, you can pick up "Northern California: An Explorer's Guide" at most good bookstores.

If you'd like to take a tour with a guide who "possesses a wealth of knowledge," please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park

2009-06-01T10:24:00.000-07:00

A short walk west of the Music Concourse in Golden Gate Park lies Stow Lake. Here families can partake in an array of outdoor activities. The easiest and least expensive is to take a walk around the lake or to the top of Strawberry Hill. During the approximately mile-long walk around the lake, you are likely to see ducks and other birds as well as turtles. If you walk to the top of 430-foot tall Strawberry Hill in the middle of the lake, you'll pass by a lovely man-made waterfall and be rewarded with a nice view of the park as well as the Sunset and Richmond Districts at the summit.

If you want to spend some time on the water and get an up-close look at the birds and turtles, you can rent paddle boats and row boats at the Stow Lake Boathouse. Rentals are available from 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. on most nice days. You can check to make sure the boathouse is open and by phoning (415) 752-0347.

If you want a little more exercise, bicycles and peddle-powered carriages are available for rental at the boathouse. On Saturdays during the summer and on Sundays year-round, the section of JFK Drive closest to the lake is closed to cars making it a nice place for a leisurely bike ride.

Need a quick refresher? The Stow Lake Boathouse sells ice cream, sodas, and other snacks. The food's not gourmet but tastes good after a hike or boat ride.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a stop at Stow Lake, please feel free to contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Another Summer of Art in San Francisco

2009-05-17T10:05:00.000-07:00

This summer two major art exhibitions will arrive in San Francisco. The first to open is "Georgia O'Keefe and Ansel Adams: Natural Affinities" at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Adams, a San Francisco native, befriended O'Keefe in 1929 and became lifelong friends. This show includes over 100 of their works depicting the natural world. The show opens on May 30 and closes September 7. Past shows by these two icons of American art have been very popular, so I suggest purchasing tickets in advance. SFMOMA is open Friday - Tuesday from 11:00 a.m. - 5:45 p..m. The museum is open from 11:00 a.m. - 8:45 p.m on Thursday and closed on Wednesday.

The second, and even bigger, show will be "Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs" at the de Young Museum. When Tutankhamun works were last shown 30 years ago, the exhibition was an overwhelming success. Again, buy your tickets in advance to ensure that you'll be able to visit. The show opens on June 27. The exhibition will be open daily from 9:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. through September 30. From October 1, 2009 through March 28, 2010, the De Young will revert to its usual hours of 9:00 a.m. - 6:30 p.m. on Tuesdays through Sundays. On Fridays, the museum will close later at 8:45 p.m.

If you're visiting San Francisco this summer, days can be chilly so enjoy the indoors by visiting one or both of these blockbuster exhibits.

Beautiful Gardens South of San Francisco

2009-05-07T12:49:00.000-07:00

Spring is here and Filoli has reopened for the season. This beautiful country estate, located about 30 miles south of San Francisco, is an historic site of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The mansion was built by the Bourn family and designed by famed San Francisco architect, Willis Polk. Construction started in 1915 and the family moved in during 1917. The Roth family purchased the estate in 1937. Mrs. Roth lived there until 1975 when she donated the house and surrounding gardens to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Mrs. Roth was instrumental in making the gardens the world-class attraction they are today.

While the house is interesting, it's the gardens that make this a must-see attraction for flower lovers. If you are a film buff, you might have seen Filoli in "Heaven Can Wait," "Joy Luck Club," the "Wedding Planner," and other films. It was also pictured in the television shows, "Dynasty" and "Nash Bridges."

Visitors may take a self-guided or docent-led tour of the house and gardens. If you wish to take a docent-led tour, advance reservations are highly recommended. Filoli's 2009 season runs through October 25. The estate is open from 10:00 - 3:30 from Tuesday through Saturday. Sunday hours are 11:00 - 3:30. Filoli is closed on Mondays and on most holidays.

If you would like to take a private tour that includes a visit to Filoli, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Italian Food in North Beach & Pacific Heights

2009-04-15T15:17:00.000-07:00

In my last post, I talked about the problem finding really good Italian food in North Beach. After my dining experiences over the last week, I feel even more strongly that the best, most innovative Italian food is not in North Beach.

We had dinner at Ristorante Ideale in North Beach, a restaurant we enjoyed many years ago but never returned to over the intervening years. I saw that it was still getting pretty good reviews, so we decided to give it a try again. The experience was quintessential North Beach -- mediocre service and food. When I asked the waiter about a wine on the list, he was clearly unfamiliar with the wines or unwilling to spend time talking with me. He just said that the wine I asked him about was good. This inattentiveness to service was matched when we ordered an appetizer of pear wrapped in prosciutto and marscapone. When the food arrived, the pear was a rock and had no taste. When we complained, the waiter said that the shipment of pears they received that day needed more time to ripen. We wondered why they just didn't tell us that the dish was not available. To their credit, they did not charge us for the appetizer.

The other extreme was SPQR on Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights. The menu is always interesting, but this month the restaurant is featuring wine and food from Calabria. Having never heard of the region, much less having tried the food, I was intrigued. We had wines from Calabria featuring varietals that were new to me. We had one of their regular antipastis -- fried brussels sprouts, which were a perfect combination of sweet, salty, and garlic flavors and a crispy texture. My main dish was from Calabria -- fettuccine with sardines, bread crumbs, and currants. An unusual combination, but it worked. My wife's strata of asparagus, pancetta, and bread was scrumptious.

These two restaurants present a perfect contrast -- a restaurant that tries and one that doesn't. It's no wonder that more visitors than locals frequent North Beach.

Dining in North Beach

2009-03-25T08:44:00.000-07:00

North Beach is the old Italian section of San Francisco. Although the community is diverse today, North Beach is still home to many Italian restaurants and cafes. Strolling along Grant and Columbus Avenues is a fun way to spend a couple of hours. Lunching outside on a sunny day is a great San Francisco experience.

Many of my guests ask what are the best Italian restaurants in North Beach. I usually respond by saying that most of the restaurants in North Beach feature the traditional red sauce and pasta cuisine; that San Francisco's best Italian restaurants are not in North Beach. Of Zagat's top five rated Italian restaurants, none are in North Beach. None of the San Francisco Chronicle's top 20 rated Italian restaurants are in North Beach.

Nevertheless, visitors should spend some time in North Beach. For lunch, I usually take guests to Caffe Delucchi, at the corner of Columbus, Grant, and Green. Their paninis and salads are quite good. While I haven't had the pizzas and pastas, my guests have enjoyed them. Add some red wine and, if the sun is out, sit at one of the outside tables and watch the locals and tourists go by on Columbus Avenue.

Last weekend I dined at a relatively new restaurant in North Beach, Vicoletto. The staff was among the friendliest I've ever encountered. We were sold when we saw Burata on the appetizer menu. Both my wife and I are big fans of this very fresh, gooey cheese. We shared the cheese and a delicious eggplant and ground beef appetizer with friends. All of us enjoyed our main courses of pork rolled in parsley, braised short ribs, and pasta. Our tiramisu and pear tart were also quite yummy. The wine list includes many reasonably priced Italian wines. Our waiter, who previously sold wine, knew the list well. The only drawback, and this is a frequent complaint of mine, was the noise level. Vicoletto is at 550 Green Street. Reservations may be made by phoning 433-5800.

I also enjoy Trattoria Contadina, at the corner of Mason and Union Streets, for traditional red sauce and pasta fare. The restaurant is old school but what they do, they do well.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Albona, a restaurant on the border of North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf that features food from Istria. This peninsula was part of Italy prior to World War I and is now part of Croatia. While the food is heavily influenced by Italian cooking, it also has influences from Slovenia and Croatia. The cuisine is probably unlike any you have eaten, but is delicious. If you are an adventurous eater, I highly recommend Albona.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to North Beach, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (415) 337-1874 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Spring in West Marin

2009-03-17T13:41:00.000-07:00

The first day of Spring is Saturday, which means it's time to visit West Marin. The western part of Marin County is completely different from the more populated eastern side. West Marin is home to beautiful beaches, rugged coastline, dairy farms, and numerous hiking trails. Spring is a great time to visit as you are likely to avoid the winter rains and summer fog. Summer days in West Marin are often as cold as Winter days.

Spring marks the annual migration of the California gray whales from their winter home off Baja California to their summer feeding grounds in Alaska. The whales' migration is the longest of any mammal. On the northward journey, the whales travel with their babies closer to shore to avoid sharks. Their are many spots along the coast to look for sharks, but Point Reyes is among the best. If you visit on a weekend day or a holiday before mid-April, you will need to take a shuttle bus to the point. You can watch for whales from the deck above the Pt. Reyes Lighthouse or walk down the 300 steps to the lighthouse. The lighthouse is open from 10:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. daily, except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Keep in mind that whale watching requires patience. I've been many times and failed to see whales more times than I have seen them. First, look for the whale's spout. Then, if the animal is close enough to shore, you might be able to see it.

Chimney Rock is at the southern end of the point and is another spot to watch for whales. This is also a great area to see wildflowers. Take a walk on the bluffs overlooking Drake's Bay and the Pacific and you are likely to be see California poppies, Indian paintbrush, Douglas' iris, mission bells, and other beautiful blowers.

South of Point Reyes, near the Bolinas Lagoon is the Audubon Canyon Ranch. At its Bolinas Lagoon Preserve, you can see nesting Great Blue Heron and Great White and Snowy Egrets. The reserve is open from 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. on weekends and holidays through the second weekend in July. You can also make an appointment to visit on Tuesday through Friday.

West Marin is a great part of the Bay Area to visit during any season, but Spring is special. If you would like to take a private tour of West Marin that includes Point Reyes and/or the Audubon Canyon Ranch, call Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 327-4237 or e-mail Blue Heron by clicking here.

Cantor Arts Center

2009-03-09T09:57:00.000-07:00

I've always enjoyed the Cantor Arts Center at Stanford University. This small museum has art from around the world and various periods of time. This weekend I was drawn to see two new exhibits: Rodin! The Complete Collection and Timbuktu to Cape Town.

Last month, the museum reopened its remodeled Rodin galleries and is now displaying its entire collection of sculptures in bronze, plaster, ceramic, tile, and wax - about 200 works. The outdoor sculpture garden is home to an additional 20 works, plus the Burghers of Calais are on the Main Quad. The Cantor Arts Center has the largest collection outside of Paris of works in bronze by Rodin. Most of the pieces were given to the museum by Iris and Gerald Cantor, who were great collectors of Rodin and commissioned castings of some of Rodin's works. For me, this exhibition alone makes a visit to the Cantor Arts Center worthwhile. Rodin! The Complete Collection is ongoing, with no planned end date.

To commemorate the tenth anniversary of the museum's reopening after repairing the damage done by the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, the Cantor Center is highlighting works acquired since 1999. Timbuktu to Cape Town collects the African art obtained during the past decade. While the small exhibit has some interesting works, it is not worth visiting the Cantor solely to see these works. However, combined with the Cantor's regular gallery of African art, you can see a pretty good small collection. Timbuktu to Cape Town runs through March 22.

The Cantor Center is also home to a nice place for lunch: Cool Cafe. You can get tasty sandwiches and salads and dine inside or on the outdoor terrace. Prices are a little high but, since the the museum is free, it's worth paying a little extra for lunch.

The Cantor Arts Center is open Wednesday and Friday through Sunday from 11:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. On Thursday, the museum is open from 11:00 a.m. until 8:00 p.m. Cool Cafe has the same hours.

If you would like to take a private tour that includes a visit to the Cantor Arts Center and the Stanford campus, please contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Andy Goldsworthy in San Francisco

2009-02-23T09:54:00.000-08:00

Environmental artist Andy Goldsworthy frequently makes works that are ephemoral; that disappear with time. However, San Francisco is home to two permanent installations.

The first work, Drawn Stone, was commissioned by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco in 2003 for the entry to the new de Young Museum. Installed in 2005, the work features a continuous crack that represents the meeting of the North American and Pacific Plates near San Francisco. This faultline is what ruptured in 1906 resulting in the Great Earthquake and Fire. Nearby are large stone slabs where visitors can sit to contemplate the installation.

The second work, Spire, was installed in the Presidio last year. The work is a tower comprised of 35 cypress trees that were removed as part of the replanting of the Presidio's historic forest. Spire is located near the Arguello Gate and the Inspiration Point Overlook. A special exhibit on Goldsworthy's work at the Presidio is located at 49 Moraga Avenue (next to the Officers' Club). Goldsworthy at the Presidio is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. through May 3.

There is yet another Goldsworthy piece on the campus of Stanford University in Palo Alto. Stone River was completed in 2001 and is located southeast of the Cantor Art Center, near the corner of Museum Way and Lomita Drive. The flowing wall is made with stones from buildings that were destroyed in the 1906 and 1989 earthquakes and is the largest sculpture on the campus.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco and/or Palo Alto that includes these works by Andy Goldsworthy, please phone me at (866) 326-8237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

San Francisco to Hearst Castle

2009-02-16T10:50:00.000-08:00

Hearst Castle in San Simeon is definitely worth a visit. William Randolph Hearst's unfinished home is an architectural wonder and houses many priceless pieces of art. Five tours are offered of the estate. Tour 1 is suggested for first time visitors as it provides an overview of the castle and grounds. Tours 2 and 3 focus on different parts of the castle. Tour 4 takes you through the gardens and Tour 5 lets you experience the castle at night. I highly recommend purchasing your tickets in advance as tours frequently sell out.

Each year I get asked if I can do a day trip to Hearst Castle. The short answer is, "no"! San Simeon is halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. The drive via the inland route from San Francisco takes about 5 hours. The scenic route through Big Sur along CA Route 1 takes about 6 hours. If you want to visit San Simeon from Los Angeles, the trip takes about 4.5 hours.

While a one-day tour from San Francisco is not really feasible. A round-trip, overnight tour via Big Sur would be a great way to spend two days. Or, if you are traveling to L.A. from San Francisco, take the scenic coastal route and overnight in San Simeon or nearby Cambria. Then take an early morning tour of Hearst Castle and continue on to Los Angeles. Alternatively, you could include a visit to Hearst Castle on a longer visit to California's Central Coast. In addition to Hearst Castle, you could visit Monterey and Carmel; Big Sur; wine country around Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo, or Santa Barbara; the city of Santa Barbara, and other coastal communities.

If you would like to take a private tour that includes visits to Big Sur and Hearst Castle, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Civil War Era Fort Point

2009-02-11T11:58:00.000-08:00

When I have children on a San Francisco tour, I frequently include a stop at Fort Point. Built from 1853 - 1861, the fort was designed to protect San Francisco Bay from enemy attack. Fortunately, the cannon never needed to fire against enemies, only for testing. We are also fortunate that the builders of the Golden Gate Bridge decided to save the fort from demolition in the 1930s.

Visitors to Fort Point can learn much about the history of San Francisco and the role of the Army in the city's life. Children enjoy looking at the cannons and climbing to the top of the fort for views of the Golden Gate. Adults may find the various exhibits of more interest. Docents dressed in Civil War uniforms are frequently present to answer questions about the fort. In addition, a number of activities are scheduled each day. The cannon-loading demonstration is particularly interesting.

Fort Point is open Friday - Sunday from 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Even if you are visiting on a day when the fort is closed, a drive down Long Avenue and Marine Drive provides great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. You may also see surfers testing their skills under the bridge. If you are very lucky, you could see dolphin in the Bay. Twice in 30 years, I have seen dolphin and both times I saw them from the parking lot adjacent to Fort Point. I frequently bring guests to Fort Point on foggy days as the view of the Golden Gate Bridge is better than from the vista point above.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to Fort Point, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Mosaics and a View

2009-02-03T16:51:00.000-08:00

Standing at the top of Grandview Park I had a 360-degree view of the Pacific Ocean, the Golden Gate, San Francisco Bay, Golden Gate Park, the Sunset District, and downtown San Francisco. I climbed quite a bit to get here as the park sits on the top of a hill that rises to 820 feet above sea level, but the view was worth it.

Grandview Park is not convenient for most visitors as it is located in the Golden Gate Heights neighborhood on the west side of San Francisco. However, if you are staying near Union Square, take the N Judah streetcar at one of the MUNI Metro stations on Market Street. Make sure you get a transfer and exit the train at 9th and Judah. Transfer to the 66 Quintara bus and travel to 16th and Moraga. You can also continue on the N Judah to 16th Ave. and walk three blocks south to Moraga.

When you get off the bus, look east and you will see a long stairway covered with mosaics climbing the hill. More than 220 local residents donated funds that resulted in the mosaic of the ocean, moon, and sun. As you climb the steps, look closely and you'll find the names of the contributors who made the steps possible. Be sure to turn around and admire the ocean view.

When you get to the top of the steps, you'll be at 15th Avenue. Look to the right and you'll see a small set of steps that connect lower and upper 15th. When you get to the top of this stairway, you'll see a long flight of wooden steps that will take you to the top of the hill. Enjoy the view as you wander through the small park.

If you want to grab a bite to eat during your outing, there are many small, inexpensive restaurants along Irving Street and on 9th Avenue between Lincoln and Judah. You'll find Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, American, Ethiopian, seafood, Greek, and other restaurants.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to Grandview Park and the mosaic-covered stairway, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Shoppers' Delight

2009-01-21T08:18:00.000-08:00

Two of the best shopping districts in San Francisco are Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights and Union Street in Cow Hollow. Both are a few miles from San Francisco's main shopping district -- Union Square -- but can be easily visited.

The best way to browse through Fillmore and Union Streets is to start at the southern end of the Pacific Heights shopping district at the corner of Fillmore Street and Geary Boulevard. You can easily get here from your hotel by taxi or take the 38 Geary bus from Union Square.

When you arrive, you'll find yourself in Japantown. Not much remains of this once vibrant neighborhood; however, you can find all things Japanese in Japan Center. You may want to explore the shopping center before making your way up Fillmore Street.

As you walk up the hill you'll find boutiques selling home furnishings, clothing, jewelry, cosmetics, gifts, etc. If you need caffeine to sustain you through your journey, you'll find plenty of coffee shops as you climb the hill. Need sugar, try Tango Gelato, Patisserie Delanghe, or Boulangerie. There are also plenty of restaurants to stop at for lunch. After a nine-block walk, you'll find yourself at the corner of Fillmore and Jackson Streets. The shopping district ends here and the remainder of your walk along Fillmore will be through a residential neighborhood.

Continue along Fillmore and gaze out at the panoramic view from the top of Pacific Heights. You then begin your steep decline to Cow Hollow. When you get to Fillmore and Broadway, turn left. Walk one block to the corner of Broadway and Steiner Streets. On the northwest corner, you'll see the home where Mrs. Doubtfire lived in the movie starring Robin Williams and Sally Fields. Turn right on Steiner and continue downhill to Union Street. If you didn't lunch on Fillmore Street, Rose's Cafe, on the corner of Steiner and Union, has great sandwiches, paninis, salads, and other Italian dishes.

Turn right (east) on Union Street and you'll again find yourself strolling past shops of all sorts. The shopping district pretty much ends at the corner of Gough and Union Streets. On the southwest corner, check out the Octagon House, one of two eight-sided homes in San Francisco. To return to Union Square, you can take the 45 Union-Stockton bus that will drop you on the Stockton Street side of the square.

A word of caution, don't walk this route in reverse. You'll find yourself climbing a very long and steep hill up Steiner and Fillmore Streets.

If you'd like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes stops along Fillmore and Union Streets, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Excellent Breakfast in North Beach

2008-12-18T13:26:00.000-08:00

For nearly 50 years Mama's on Washington Square has been serving breakfast and lunch in North Beach. During the peak tourist season and on sunny, weekend days, a long line of hungry patrons stretches down Stockton Street.

To avoid the lines, visit Mama's on a weekday during the late fall or winter. That's exactly what I did earlier this week. I hadn't been to Mama's for over five years, so I figured it was time to see if the restaurant was as good as I remembered it. It was!

Mama's serves an array of egg dishes, a variety of freshly made French Toasts, and homemade baked goods. We had a chance to taste an omelette, corned beef hash, and a piece of coffee cake. All were excellent.

If you want a good breakfast with fresh ingredients, you won't find a better one than at Mama's. If you're visiting during the height of the tourist season, the trick to avoiding a long wait is to arrive right when Mama's opens at 8:00 a.m. Mama's stays open until 3:00 p.m. everyday except Monday, when it is closed. Mama's is located at 1701 Stockton Street, on the corner of Filbert.

Christmas Day in San Francisco

2008-12-12T13:42:00.000-08:00

Visitors to San Francisco during the holiday season often wonder what to do on Christmas Day. Many attractions are closed, but there's still much to do if you're not unwrapping presents with your family.

Walk across the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco's number 1 tourist attraction. The walkway is open from sunrise to sunset.

See Lombard Street, the "Crookedest Street in the World." Visitors flock to Lombard Street to see its gardens and curves. Don't forget that two blocks away is the steepest street in San Francisco - Filbert Street.

Explore Muir Woods, where you can see the Coastal Redwoods - the tallest trees in the world. The park is located about 40 minutes north of San Francisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge.

Visit The Contemporary Jewish Museum, one of San Francisco's newest museums. Current exhibits include "Warhol's Jews: Ten Portraits Reconsidered" and "In the Beginning: Artists Respond to Genesis." The museum will be open from 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. on Christmas Day.

Ride the cable cars. Travel over Nob Hill on America's first moving National Historic Landmark.

Eat. Many restaurants are open on Christmas Day, including a good number in Chinatown.

Take in a movie. Most movie theaters open around noon. If you are planning to go late in the afternoon or early in the evening, be prepared for crowds.

As you can see, there are a number of things to do on Christmas Day. So there's no need to spend the day in your hotel room.

Happy Holidays from Rick at Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel.

Garden Lovers' San Francisco

2008-11-18T15:17:00.000-08:00

Garden lovers will definitely want to visit Golden Gate Park. This man-made park shows how dedicated gardeners can transform the landscape. In addition to enjoying the full park, gardeners will want to visit three sights that are within easy walks of each other: the Japanese Tea Garden, Botanical Garden and Arboretum, and Conservatory of Flowers.

The Japanese Tea Garden was founded in 1894 as part of San Francisco's Midwinter Fair and is the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States. Visitors will enjoy a leisurely stroll through the garden. If you visit at the right time in the spring, you will see the cherry trees in bloom. You can also stop at the tea house for green tea, Japanese crackers, and fortune cookies. The Tea Garden opens at 9:00 a.m. and closes at 5:00 p.m. from November to February and at 6:00 p.m. during the balance of the year. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for seniors age 65 and over and youth between the ages of 12 and 17, and $1.50 for children between the ages of 5 and 11. Children under the age of 5 may enter for free.

The San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum is just across Martin Luther King Drive from the Japanese Tea Garden. The 55 acres of gardens feature plants from Mediterranean climates, mild-temperate climates, cloud forests, elsewhere. The Botanical Gardens are open daily and there is no charge for enjoying a walk among the diverse plants and flowers.

The Conservatory of Flowers is a ten-minute walk from the Japanese Tea Garden. This Victorian greenhouse opened in 1879 and is now North America's oldest public conservatory. The Conservatory closed in 1995 after suffering major damage during a severe windstorm. After extensive renovation, the Conservatory reopened in 2003. Today, the conservatory houses over 2,000 plants in its permanent collection. Special exhibits are displayed throughout the year. The Conservatory is open Tuesday - Sunday from 9:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. The last admission is at 4:30 p.m. Admission fees are the same as for the Japanese Tea Garden.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to one or more of these gardens, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Fortune Cookies in San Francisco

2008-11-11T13:05:00.000-08:00

There has been quite a bit of controversy over the origins of fortune cookies. Thanks to the research of Jennifer 8. Lee in her book "Fortune Cookie Chronicles," it appears that these cookies are Japanese in origin.

Most accounts say the cookies were introduced to America at the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. Dates vary from 1894, when the Tea Garden opened during the Midwinter Fair, to the first or second decade of the 20th century. A few accounts say they originated in Los Angeles. However, this cannot be true since fortune cookies are tasty and nothing good comes from Southern California!

While most fortune cookies are made by machine, you can see them made by hand at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory at 56 Ross Alley in San Francisco's Chinatown. Since 1962, fortunes have been hand packed into the cookies as soon as they come out of the oven. There is no charge to enter the factory and you are likely to be offered a free sample. There is a charge to take photos, but a better deal is to just buy some cookies!

The factory is open from 9:00 a.m. until the last tourists go home in the evening. Ross Alley runs between Washington and Jackson Streets, just east of Stockton Street.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to the Fortune Cookie Factory, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Land's End Trail Update

2008-10-20T08:44:00.000-07:00

In the second edition of "Rick's Tips," Blue Heron's free newsletter of fun things to do in the Bay Area, I wrote about the Coastal Trail at Land's End. This beautiful walk takes you from Sea Cliff and the Legion of Honor to the Pacific Ocean near Cliff House.

If you've not done this walk recently, there are many improvements along the way. Most recently, a large parking lot was opened at the west end of the trail, just above Cliff House. Now there are plenty of spots for cars and buses to park so visitors can enjoy the trail, walk among the ruins of Sutro Bath, or eat at Cliff House or Louis' Restaurant.

The trail is much better signed now, both with directional arrows and waysides that help interpret the area. You'll be able to learn more about the streetcar and train that previously ran along Land's End, the Native Americans that lived here, and the many ships that wrecked outside the Golden Gate.

There are also improved seating areas for walkers to rest and gaze out over the Pacific.

If you haven't visited Land's End, I highly recommend the walk I called "the most beautiful urban walk in America." If you haven't walked the trail recently, it's time for a return visit.

If you would like to take a private, custom tour that includes Land's End, Sea Cliff, and/or the Legion of Honor, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Best Restaurants in San Francisco - 2008/2009

2008-10-01T09:08:00.000-07:00

Over a year ago, I summarized the critics' picks of the best restaurants in San Francisco. With the release of the "2009 Zagat Guide" and the 2009 Michelin guide, I'll update the listings.

According to Zagat, the five most popular restaurants in the Bay Area are Gary Danko, Boulevard, The Slanted Door, The French Laundry (Yountville), and Michael Mina. The restaurants with the best food are The French Laundry (Yountville) and Cyrus (Healdsburg) with 29 points, and Gary Danko, Kaygetsu (Menlo Park), Quince, La Foret (San Jose), The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, and Sushi Ran (Sausalito) with 28 points.

The San Francisco Chronicle awards its highest rating, four stars, to eight restaurants: Chez Panisse (Berkeley), Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), French Laundry (Yountville), La Folie, Manresa (Los Gatos), Michael Mina, and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton.

"Michelin San Francisco, Bay Area and Wine Country 2009" gives its highest rating of three stars to only one restaurant: The French Laundry in Yountville. The guide awards two stars to six restaurants: Aqua, Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), Manresa (Los Gatos), Meadowood (St. Helena), and Michael Mina.

As you can see the critics disagree more than they agree. The only restaurants near the top of all three lists are Cyrus, The French Laundry, and Michael Mina. Having eaten at all three, I wouldn't disagree.

(revised 10/16/2008)

San Francisco CultureBus

2008-09-24T09:32:00.000-07:00

The MUNI, San Francisco's public transportation system, has started the CultureBus. This new bus line (74X) will link many of the city's cultural institutions, including the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Asian Art Museum, de Young Museum, and California Academy of Sciences. Daily tickets will cost $7.00. More information may be found at www.SFCultureBus.org.

California Academy of Sciences

2008-09-24T08:59:00.000-07:00

On September 27, the new California Academy of Sciences opens to the public. Last week, I had a chance to preview one of the oldest science museums in the United States. Not all of exhibits were finished, but I got a good sense of the place.

The Academy continues to house an aquarium, planetarium, and natural history museum. I think the aquarium exhibits work best, including the Philippine Coral Reef, Water Planet, and Northern California Coast. These displays are the nicest to look at and contain much information.

The Planetarium was not showing one of its regular exhibits, so I can not critique this part of the Critique.

The Amazonian Flooded Rainforest will enable visitors to walk through the various levels of a tropical rainforest. It looks like a fun exhibit, but was not open for the preview.

The most disappointing exhibit continues to be the African Hall. While supposedly loved by San Franciscans in the old Academy building, it continues to look antiquated to me. Seeing stuffed animals amidst painted dioramas is neither educational nor informative. The dozen or so penguins trapped in their small water tank and fake rocks seem like an old-fashioned zoo exhibit that is neither kind to the animals or particularly informative for the visitor.

The roof of the Academy building has domes covered with native California plants. Visitors can access the roof for a close look at the plants and a nice view of the Music Concourse in Golden Gate Park.

While I must confess that science museums are not my favorite, I was disappointed in the new Academy. Yes, it's a great piece of eye candy. However, I think they spread themselves too thin by housing three disparate attractions. Depth is lacking, particularly in the natural history part of the museum. Even the aquarium, which is pretty good, pales in comparison to the outstanding Monterey Bay Aquarium. For the millions that were spent, I think a better museum could have been created.

I suspect, though, that the Academy will be a hit, particularly for families. However, a visit is not cheap. Tickets cost $24.95 for adults, $19.95 for seniors (ages 65 and over) and youths (ages 12 - 17), and $14.95 for children ages 7 - 11. Children under 7 years of age can enter for free. Admission is free on the third Wednesday of every month and weekends for San Franciscans who live in selected Zip codes. The Academy is open daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Two Chinatown Temples

2008-09-08T11:56:00.000-07:00

Many visitors to Chinatown overlook some of the most fascinating sights -- the temples. Chinatown is home to a many Buddhist, Confucian, and Taoist temples. Most welcome visitors; although, there may not be English speakers on staff to interpret what you are seeing.

Two that I frequently take visitors to see are Tien Hau Temple at 125 Waverly Place and Matsu Temple at 30 Beckett Street. They both honor and take their names from the same Goddess of the Sea; however, Matsu is Buddhist and Tien Hau is Taoist. Matsu is the more accessible of the two as it is on the first floor. Tien Hau is more ornate and visually interesting, but is on the fourth floor of a building with no elevator. There is seldom anyone who speaks English at Matsu. When Sally is at Tien Hau, she is happy to give you a quick explanation of the temple and its decor.

Both temples have handouts in English that tell about the life of Matsu/Tien Hau. You can also have your fortune told at both temples. It's a complicated process so you may need to ask for help.

You also can take a walking tour of Chinatown that will include a visit to one of the neighborhood's temples. I highly recommend All about Chinatown Walking Tours. Linda Lee, the owner, has been leading tours for more than 25 years. If you'd like to visit one of Chinatown's temples as part of a private tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.