53. Little Corn beaches, Nicaragua

Low key, undeveloped and languid, Little Corn Island was, sometimes still is, a stop for pirates. These days it’s more frequently used as a vacation spot for those looking for a few days of rustic, five-star-free living.

Worth knowing: A great spot for diving and snorkeling.

Little Corn Island beach

Credit: WCS

Most people know they Pearl Cays for their exquisite beaches, excellent snorkeling and proximity to the Pearl Cays. However, the cays have something special about them besides their postcard picture appeal. Some of the largest sea grass beds in the Caribbean can be found here, which is basically a giant buffet for green turtles. Sea turtles also nest on the cays. In a report from the Wildlife Conservation Society, last year there were 280 clutches of hawksbill eggs discovered on the cays, up nearly 74% in the last 12 years. Nesting season starts right about now and runs through September with nesting peaking between July and August.

How would you like to give birth in the sand? At night? Right here?  

So if you would like to see turtles laying or hatching, this is a fantastic place to do it. Unfortunately the local turtle population is still at risk from fishermen and egg poachers. The Pearl Lagoon chapter of the Wildlife Conservation Society has been doing a great job with their conservation efforts and have recently started a new initiative to help former turtle fishermen become certified guides to take visitors to spot them in their natural habitat. The result, Kabu Tours, is designed to ease the pressure on the turtles by giving turtle fishermen an alternative income source by conserving instead of hunting, as well as giving visitors and turtle lovers a Pearl Cays experience that only knowledgeable locals would be able to provide.

There are other ways to get to the cays as well. In Pearl Lagoon Queen Lobster makes day and overnight trips, and most local hotels can arrange trips.  Trips can also be made from Little Corn Island where you can find groups going for the day, overnight and sometimes one way from the island to Pearl Lagoon.

Read about one sea turtle’s incredible journey from being tagged 12 years ago in the Pearl Cays: There and Back Again

Common coconut misconceptions:

1. Coconut milk is the water inside the coconut.

Once, while watching the food channel I saw a recognized chef chop open a dry coconut and use its few drops of water in a dessert dish, claiming it was coconut milk. It’s most definitely not, and more likely the stale coconut water he used had a fermented, carbonated taste to it. Coconut water is taken from green, young coconuts still on the tree. There are specific classes of coconuts that are used for their coconut water. Coconuts with developed and hardened shells should not be used for their water (unless your looking for a way to quickly flush out your bowels). Coconut milk is made when the meat of a mature coconut is grated, soaked in water and then strained. The strained liquid is the milk and the discarded coconut meat is called the “trash”.  You can use the trash to make candies or feed your animals.

2. Coconut bread is made with coconut oil.

That would make for a heavy and blubbery texture, not the light and fluffy texture coconut bread is acclaimed for. Just like classic Caribbean soups, coconut bread uses coconut milk. Typical creole “rice and beans” are also prepared with coconut milk. Coconut milk adds a rich yet bright flavor to these dishes. Here on the coast of Nicaragua coconut oil is mostly used for frying plantains, bananas (plantains vs. bananas… yikes, now that’s an entirely different conversation) eggs, meats and sautéing veggies. Some people use it as a skin product as well.

3. Coconut oil is bad for your health.

And so is spinach. Coconut oil gets a bad rap from some uninformed critics for its high levels of saturated fat, when in fact  it  belongs to the group of good saturated fats, necessary for the cells in your body to function properly. These same fats are also required for providing energy to the heart as well as other organs in the body. The oil contains MTC (medium-chain triglycerides), which is directly converted into usable energy for the body to burn. Its nearly medicinal properties supply a rich source of fatty acids and antioxidant that help boost the immune system, help in weight loss, promote healthy bones and teeth and deliver the heart a healthy dose of MCT and lauric acid essential for its functioning. And get this….apparently coconut water has been used for intravenous rehydration and in WWII emergency coconut IVs were used by the British and Japanese!

4. Coconut sponge! (Well it’s not quite a misconception, just more of an unknown coconut jewel). So when a coconut has matured, turned grey and fallen to the ground it eventually starts to germinate. During this time the coconut produces a white sponge that grows from its meaty innards. Around the size of a large marble to a small lemon, the sponge has a fluffy texture and is super sugary. It tastes something like its counterparts, Ms. Coconut water and Mr. Coconut meat but with an altogether different feel. If you ask any Kriol or Indian person on the Coast, they’ll tell you that the coconut sponge is their favorite part.

Lets take a look at how some of these coconut things work:

Coconut water:

Get a long stick with a hook on the end, or tie some rope around your feet and climb a coconut tree. Once you’ve acquired your green coconut, chop the coconut through and through (about 2/3 up the coconut) and it drink one time!

Coconut milk:

Wait for a mature, grey-husked coconut to fall to the ground.

With a machete or sharpened stick, de-husk the coconut so that you are left with the only hard coconut shell apart from the husk.

With a machete, chop the brown outer shell off of the coconut. This step takes seriously precise machete skills.

In a large bowl, add water to the grated coconut and allow the coconut to steep for a few minutes. Then strain the coconut with a sieve. You are left with coconut milk and coconut trash.

Coconut oil:

Same process as applies for coconut milk. De-husk, chip, grate and soak in water. Now multiply this by 40 or 50. Boil the water soaked coconut in a barrel for an hour or two. The oil separates from the water and rises to the top of the barrel. Ladle off the oil and vuaa-la! There is, however, a second method of acquiring coconut oil, but it’s looked down on in creole /coconut culture. I wouldn’t go as far as saying a scandal, but it’s something analogous to the French-truffle vs. Chinese truffle conflict. In this second method of coconut oil extraction, instead of boiling the mixture in the barrel, it’s left out to “set” for a few hours in a large bowl. After the “cream” has separated from the water, its ladled out and fried in a pot. The oil separates and again, vuaa-la. The down side of this method is that after about a month or two this oil spoils and turns “rance”. At the time of purchase, looking at the two classes of oil side by side you could never differentiate between the two. Only until time has passed and the oil ages will you be able to tell the quality boiled oil from the knock-off “set” oil. The motive behind this “rance” oil is of course $$. It’s quicker to make and nearly impossible to get caught selling to a larger market.

This has been translated interpreted from the original version in spanish (by yours truly).

Objective: Promote the Maypole culture from the Caribbean towns and to contribute to greater tourism

Date              Time                       Where                           Activity

1    Midnight    Central Park    Fireworks display

1    12:30am    In the main streets    Maypole dancing and music

1    7am    Airport and wharf    Dance presentation to welcome visitors

1    9am – 5pm    Seawall in Sta. Rosa    Food fair

1    4:30pm    Beholden    March and presentation of Miss May candidates

1    6pm    Beholden    Neighborhood Maypole celebration

1 – 31    9am – 5:30pm    Alcaldia building    Photographic exposition

3, 10, 17, 24    8am – noon, 2pm – 5pm    CIDCA museum    Photographic presentation of the cultural identity of the afrodecendent villages of the Caribbean coast

5    9am    Central Park    Food, culture and artists fair

15    10am    URACCAN university    Conference on the origin of the Maypole tradition

15    8am    Alcaldia building    Competition of murals depicting the beginnings of Maypole

18    9am    Seawall Sta. Rosa    Sailing dory race

18    6pm    Central Park    Homage to the Maypole musicians, poetry reading by Victor Obando

18    3pm    Central Park    Election of Miss Mayita (baby beauty pageant!)

19    9am    Central Park    Food, Culture and artists fair

24    4pm    Central Park    Parade of traditional dress and judging of new Maypole musicians’ songs

25    1pm    Central Bluefields    Carnival parade leaving from the Obelisk

25    4pm    Central Park    Miss May election

26    9am    Central Park    Food, culture and artists fair

31    6pm    Old Bank, Cotton Tree    Tulululu march and celebration

The original, in espanich:

05 Instalación de un árbol de palo de mayo En cada institución del gobierno y la comuna Del 01 al 31 de mayo Este presupuesto solo aplica solo para la comunaPLAN FIESTAS DE MAYO 2013

Objetivo: Promover la cultura del Palo de Mayo, desde las propias particularidades de su pueblo Caribeño y contribuir a la promisión turística.

No Actividad Local Fecha Hora
01 Juegos de pólvora Parque Reyes 01 de mayo 12:00 media noche
02 Diana con música de palo de mayo Principales calles de la ciudad 01 d mayo 12:30 madrugada
03 Presentación baile de palo de mayo para dar la bienvenida a los visitantes Aéreo Puerto y Terminal Costa Caribe 01 de mayo 07:00 a.m.
04 Feria gastronómica Malecón de Santa Rosa 01 de mayo
09:00 a.m. a 5:00 p.m.

06 Recorrido y Presentación de las candidatas Miss Mayo 2013 Bo. Beholdeen 01 de mayo 04:30 p.m.

07 Celebración del Palo de Mayo Barrio Beholdeen 01 de mayo 06:00 p.m.
08 Celebración del palo de mayo en 18 barrios mas el puerto del Blueff
09 Exposisón fotográfica Edificio Alcaldía Del 01 al 31 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 5:30 p.m.
10 Feria Gastronómica, de artesanía y cultural Calle del Consejo Regional y Parque Reyes 05 de mayo 09:00 a.m.

11 Visita a los medios de comunicación para hablar sobre la historia del palo de mayo Radio Zinica 02 de mayo 09:30 a.m.
Radio Bluefields Stereo 07 de mayo 06:00 a.m.
Radio La Costeñísima 09 de mayo 06:00 a.m.
Radio Punto Tres 10 de mayo 09:00 a.m.
Radio Ritmo 10 de mayo 09:30 a.m.
Radio Jerusalén 14 de mayo 07:00 a.m.
12 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 03 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
13 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 10 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
14 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 17
de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
15 Feria Gastronómica, de artesanía y cultural Calle del Consejo Regional y Parque Reyes 12 de mayo 09:00 a.m.

16 Conferencia magistral sobre el origen del palo de mayo Universidad URACCAN 15 de mayo 10:00 a.m.
17 Homenaje a los compositores de la música de palo de mayo
Parque Reyes 18 de mayo
06:00 p.m.

18 Competencia de murales alusivos a la ceración del palo de mayo ALCALDIA 15 de mayo 8:00 a.m.

19 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 24 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
20 Elección Miss Mayita 2013 Parque Reyes 18 de mayo 03:00 p.m.

21 Noche de poesía, lanzamiento del grupo Zinica, y el nuevo material poético del Poeta Víctor Obando. Parque Reyes 18 de mayo 06:00 p.m.

22 Producción y grabación de Spot Del 25 de abril al 25 de mayo En toda la programación

23 Competencia de cayucos, feria gastronómica y presentaciones artísticas Malecón de Santa Rosa 18 de mayo 09:00 a.m.

24 Feria Gastronómica, de artesanía y cultural Calle del Consejo Regional y Parque Reyes 19 de mayo
09:00 a.m.

25 Desfile de traja tradicionales y premiación del grupo o solista de la mejor composición de la música de palo de mayo Parque Reyes 24 de mayo
04:00 p.m.

26 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 24 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
27 Liga del saber
Universidad BICU 23 de mayo 09:00 a.m.

28 Recorrido de comparsas Recorrido tradicional saliendo de la esquina del Obelisco 25 de mayo 01:00 p.m.

29 Elección y Coronación de Miss Mayo 2013 Parque Reyes 25 de mayo 04:00 p.m.

31 Presentación fotográfica sobre la identidad cultural de los pueblos afrodescendientes. CIDCA/BICU –MINED-ALBLU 24 de mayo 08:00 a.m. a 12 MD – 02:00 p.m. a 05:00 p.m.
32
Feria Gastronómica, de artesanía y cultural Calle del Consejo Regional y Parque Reyes 26 de mayo
09:00 a.m.

33 Celebración del Tulu lu lu lu… Barrio Old Back y Punta Fría 31 de mayo 06:00 p.m.

Elaborado por: Cro. Edén Borge Gutiérrez
Director. Relaciones Públicas y Divulgación
Bluefields, 07 de marzo del 2013.
Programa de Mayo 2013

Big thanks to Matias Fontenla for sending this to me!

I recently visited the creole/miskito village of Kahkabila in the Pearl Lagoon basin and snapped a few shots of locals’ cooking equipment.

And what are they cooking up on these open-fire stoves in their shanty kitchens?

Stewed shrimp in coconut and curry sauce, fried plantains, coconut rice and beans

Outstanding!

And for your strange photo of the day here is a shot of a cow in a panga (alive and not happy). I rode it hitching a ride back to Pearl Lagoon. The cow was destined for the slaughterhouse in Corn Island.

RSG distributors maypole 2013

The Maypole edition of the RightSide Guide has info on the history of the celebration, where to check it out, and of course, all the latest info on activities and transportation to and from the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua.

Check    it    out!!

If you were ever going to come visit the area, May is the month to do it! May is when the biggest celebrations happen and the rain is still a month away. The May pole festival is one of the most over-the-top parties in the country and is still “undiscovered” by many of the travelers passing through Nicaragua. This is a great opportunity to discover the Caribbean coast, either on your own or with the help of Atlantic Tour. Below is a little information to whet your appetite for your upcoming visit, or a taste of what you are going to miss if you can’t make it! Buen provecho…

No doubt if you have done any research on the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua you have heard something about the Maypole festival. Often called “deh carnival” by the locals, the Maypole festival is a hybrid festival that traces its roots back to both the English May Day rites and the indigenous worship of Mayaya, the goddess of fertility. This clash of rituals has given birth to the sexiest celebration outside of Rio.

What to expect

During the month most of the neighborhoods take turns hosting their own smaller, more intimate festivals. Old Bank, Cottontree, Beholden, Loma Fresca, Fatima and Santa Rosa all host, and all have their own twist but usually involve either live music or domino tournaments, bowling or basketball games, loads of excellent coastal food and, of course, the May Pole tree covered in bows and ribbons, fruits and candy. Stick around late to watch the rum to kick in the locals get crazy dancing and laughing. The neighborhood celebrations get back to the roots of May Pole, and if you are going to be in town during any of them, stop and check it out. I will post the listed schedule as soon as it becomes available.

On the weekends starting about mid month there are frequent concerts going on somewhere in town, usually the park. I will post schedules of events on the calendar as I find out about them. However, the biggest, loudest and wildest party happens on the last weekend of the month. The May Pole festival weekend begins with the carnival which showcases the neighborhood dance groups dressed in full carnival regalia parading through the streets of downtown Bluefields until night, where they then dance on stage as a prelude to the concert that usually follows. The last party on the last night of the last weekend culminates in the Tulululu, the wild march between Old Bank barrio and Cottontree. The Tulululu is a rambunctious parade with its own dance, the aptly named tulululu. More of a thing than a dance, you will know what to do when you see the tulululu tunnels. Some stretch for a block or more.

The famous May Pole dancing

Children learn how to dance May Pole as soon as soon as they learn how to walk, and to watch the adults in the street is to watch art and culture in motion. The dancers dress like they stepped out of the 1800s and move with an unshakable rhythm that compliments the traditional May Pole music as if the beats were born from the dance itself. The females hike up their dresses to keep them off the ground and dance to tease their partner on the other side of the May Pole tree. The man steps around the tree in delicate chase, pounding the ground with his bare feet and folding his arms behind his back like…like a big chicken! He usually carries a rag and the crowd always cheers when he throws it to the ground, only to bend down to pick it up with his teeth. The man then gets closer to the woman who makes no mistake about wanting to be caught, and for a brief moment the dance climaxes with the two simulating sex as the audience goes wild and pushes in closer to see. It is always the female dancer who breaks it off, usually turning away laughing toward her friends who are the ones laughing the hardest. Sometimes several more female dances will have their turn being chased around the pole, and sometimes other couples in the crowd will step up and dance as well. These dances usually happen in the neighborhood festivals, but are easiest seen during the carnival parade and beginning of the Tulululu.