List Price: $18.95

6″ x 9″ (15.24 x 22.86 cm)

Black & White on white paper

308 pages, 174 photos

ISBN-13: 978-1484003961

ISBN-10: 1484003969

BISAC: Travel / Museums, Tours, Points of Interest

———————————————

Table of Contents

1.   Proof We Are Alive

The Badass Tour: Hand-rolled cigars, hooch and horses

Lancaster County: Hopping through Pennsylvania

Stillhouse at Belmont Farm: A whiff of the past

LoCo, Virginia: A beery good trip to wine country

Heurich House: A brewmaster’s castle

Barboursville Vineyards: Days of wine and ruins

Brew Ridge Trail: Not your father’s Charlottesville

2.    Off Beat and on Tour

Harley-Davidson Factory: Chrome-plated tour de force

Shenandoah Valley: Groovin’ on a Saturday afternoon

White Oak Lavender Farm: A sea of tranquility

West Virginia: Weird and wonderful

The Flying Circus Airshow: On a wing with a prayer

Luray Caverns: Journey to the center of the earth

American Visionary Art Museum: A cure for the blues

3.    A Little R & R

Southern Maryland: Sitting on the dock by the bay

Kunzang Palyul Choling: Dharma near DC

Loudoun County, Virginia: Warm up at a winery

Charm City: The Babe, baseball and beer

United States Botanic Garden: Save it for a rainy day

Skipjack Minnie V: Sail into history

The C&O Canal: Pedal to the past in Maryland

Meadowlark Botanical Gardens: A photographer’s romp

4.    Time Travel Made Easy

Lincoln’s Cottage: Abe Lincoln, up close and personal

Home and Studio of Gari Melchers: A lasting impression

Glen Echo Park: Home to the Angel of the Battlefield

Gunston Hall: Where eagles soar

George Washington’s Alexandria: Party like it’s 1799

Fredericksburg: Washington’s other stomping ground

White House of the Confederacy: A jarring reminder

Museum of Industry: Ain’t no better place than Bal’more

Oatlands Historic Mansion: Welcome South

Battle of Antietam: A cruel mother of invention

Stratford Hall: The Lee family and their legacy

5.    Fido-Friendly Fun

Old Town Alexandria, Virginia: Dog days of summer

Williamsburg: Dogs love DOG Street

The Outer Banks: Not quite ruffing it

Shepherdstown: Steeped in history, not stuck there

Delaplane: Hoof it at Sky Meadows, woof it at BOW

Sugarloaf Mountain: Savor the moment

6.    Slice of Another Life

Hillwood Estate: Where fabulous lives

National Museum of the Marine Corps: Ooh-rah!

Sperryville: They’ve got it made in the mountains

National Museum of Crime and Punishment: Busted!

International Spy Museum: From DC with love

Middleburg: Horse-centric hometown America

7.    A Season for Every Reason

Winter in Frederick: Feather your nest

Spring at Eastern Market: Good day, sunshine

Spring Break at Savage Mill: Leave the daily grind

Summer in Loudoun County: What’s it all about, Aldie?

Fall for Northern Virginia: Apples, apples, apples

Festive Ellicott City: Everything old is new again

Year Round Alexandria: Have a blast

######

Copyright 2013, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.

A cruise on the Skipjack Minnie V provides a mini-escape with historical and ecological notes. All photos by Paul Jean

A cruise on the Skipjack Minnie V gives a glimpse of the region’s past – at once lowering blood pressure and raising awareness for an iconic treasure and its endangered habitat.

The Potomac Riverboat Company’s Minnie V is one of the hand-built, sloop-rigged oyster boats that enjoyed its heyday on the Chesapeake Bay over a century ago, navigating shallow waters and dredging for what was then one of the most valuable commodities on the East Coast.

Today the skipjack is the official boat of Maryland. And the Minnie V – a rare and intact example of the humble-yet-elegant vessel – is still a hard worker. Every weekend she transports bi-peds rather than bi-valves on a quest to catch a cool breeze, escape the pressures of life near the nation’s capital and learn more about an industry that’s all-but- extinct.

A relaxing 90-minute cruise is offered throughout the summer months and continues to set sail from the marina in Old Town Alexandria until the end of October. A late-afternoon cruise up and down the Potomac River highlights both the changing sky and the transitional quality of the season.

The Minnie V offers a rare opportunity to look ahead – and back – at the same time.

The Minnie V’s experienced captain and crew do all the heavy lifting – hoisting her sail to harness the power of the wind – while as many as 20 passengers sit back and enjoy familiar sights from a whole ‘nother vantage point.

It doesn’t take much more than a squint to look back in time. Along with all the sun and fun comes a history lesson, with several pointed and poignant comments about the health – or lack thereof – of the largest estuary in the United States and its tributaries. These folks clearly love what they do and have a deep and abiding respect for the waters on which they work.

Alexandria’s waterfront is a happening place to enjoy ice cream and listen to street music.

One of only 30 skipjacks in existence, the Minnie V began life in 1906 on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. Her builder – John B. Vetra of Deale Island – christened the craft in honor of his wife, and the Minnie V spent her first 87 years industriously licking oyster beds and dredging for the much-desired mollusks.

In 1884, when the oyster harvest was at its most bountiful, more than 1,000 skipjacks plied their trade on the Chesapeake Bay to harvest approximately 15 million bushels; in contrast only 43,000 bushels were gathered last year. The steep decline in the oyster harvest is due mainly to disease, over-fishing and water pollution.

Crew members do all the work – so you don’t have to – for a safe and comfortable cruise.

Since oysters are Mother Nature’s filtration system, our oxygen-poor waters are no longer clear. Run-off from homes, farms and industries nourish large algal blooms that block vital sunlight, and the diminished oyster population just can’t keep up on their essential task. While in pre-Colonial times it took approximately 3.3 days to filter the Bay, that process is now estimated to take nearly one year.

A bayside chat acquaints visitors with the history, culture and ecology of the region.

Efforts to improve the health of the Bay – beginning with the 1972 Clean Water Act – have fallen short, despite a vast scientific understanding of the problem. The Chesapeake Bay Foundation has created a blueprint for protection and restoration, calling upon the six states that constitute the Bay’s watershed to address the entire system as a single ecological entity.

The skipjack fleet itself has been deemed endangered. It’s the last class of commercial fishing vessel under the power of sail in the United States and has been included on the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s list of “America’s 11 Most Endangered Historic Places.”

Occasionally one of the remaining skipjacks can be spotted working the waters around Norfolk, Havre de Grace and Baltimore. And the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michael’s, Maryland houses the largest collection of original Chesapeake Bay watercraft in the world – including the skipjack – along with exhibits and resources designed to bring the history, culture and ecology of the Bay alive.

The museum initiated the Skipjack Restoration Project in 2001 and is currently in the process of lovingly restoring the Skipjack Rosie Parks to its former glory, using local wood and boat building techniques. You can check their progress by visiting the museum’s Working Boatyard or reading their Chesapeake Bay Boats Blog, which is found at www.cbmm.org.

The Minnie V’s captain reads the river so his capable sailboat can make best use of the wind.

The Potomac Riverboat Company’s Minnie V was refurbished and rebuilt by Lebourne Smith in 1981 for use as a floating classroom, as well as for private charters and sightseeing. Her graceful cruise along the Potomac River offers a valuable link to region’s past, a past that’s fading all-too quickly.

The Fish Market

If these walls could talk … they’d tell tales of the sea. The charming antique buildings that now house The Fish Market were originally used for the storage of ships’ cargo from around the world at a time when Alexandria ranked third– behind New York and Boston – of the busiest ports on the East Coast.

The Fish Market is housed in a historic setting with an upbeat look and feel.

In the century that followed the facility was called to duty as a hospital for Confederate soldiers, and later as a warehouse for the aging and curing of ham, beef and farm products. Here Chirp soda was proudly made in the early 1900s, and beer was clandestinely brewed during Prohibition.

A cruise on the Minnie V celebrates the fleeting nature of the season.

Now the Fish Market is part of the Landini restaurant family. Its menu includes seafood soups and stews, appetizers, salads, sandwiches, grilled platters, fried fish dishes and piles and piles of big, briny oysters on the half shell. Next door the Anchor Bar offers live entertainment on Saturday nights along with craft beer on tap and a late-night raw bar menu.

Tuck into the Skipjack Oyster Tower – two dozen premium and one dozen local oysters – with your shipmates. And if you still have room, slide on over to Pop’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream Company for a scoop of Bailey’s Irish Cream or one of two dozen other homemade flavors usually offered.

When you go…

• The Minnie V sails from September 7 – October 8 on Saturday and Sunday at 2, 4, and 6 p.m., and from October 12 – 28 at 1, 3 and 5 p.m. Call ahead to confirm times and availability
• A minimum of ten passengers is required for the last cruise of the day.
• Tickets at $25 for adults/$15 for kids, available online and at the Old Town Alexandria marina.
• All children must be accompanied by an adult. Cruise is not recommended for children under 4.
• For more details visit www.potomacriverboatcompany

In the Blue Ridge Mountains, everything seems to be found along a well-organized trail. The Wine Trail, the Artisan Trail and the granddaddy of them all – the Appalachian Trail – send us out in search of everything from the bounty of the land to inner peace.

This hardware with heart dispenses Starr Hill’s German-style hefeweizen, a local favorite. All photos by Paul Jean

And the Brew Ridge Trail? That gives us a place to kick back, relax, connect with one another and give thanks. The gifted few who brew are making a bit of magic here that may just border on religion, at least to the folks who congregate on their patios and decks and in their tasting rooms and biergartens.

This weekend romp will make you proud to be a Virginian, leaving you in awe of our talented brewers, their inspired products and the intoxicatingly beautiful surroundings.

Starr Hill Brewery: Feel the love

You’ve probably tried Jomo Lager, since any tap worth its suds dispenses this brew on occasion. But Starr Hill also offers IPA, amber ale, pilsner, saison, stout, seasonal beer and a German-style hefeweizen – affectionately known as The Love –at a friendly-but-no-frills tasting room in an industrial facility in Crozet. The setting may be antiseptically clean, but you’ll still get a warm and fuzzy when the train barrels through town and froths up your beer.

Starr Hill is the recommended first stop on a Friday afternoon. It makes good sense, since you have to remain vertical to taste at the bar here; plus they close earlier than the other breweries. Starr Hill is the place to enjoy a sampler and savor that first pint – shedding your Northern Virginia skin and talking with a few strangers … who will soon become friends.

South Street Brewery: Wind down C’ville-style

Just a block from Charlottesville’s downtown mall, South Street brews its own beer and offers an eclectic menu that ranges from shrimp kebobs and tostado appetizers to big burgers, salads and ribs. The setting – in the renovated, 19^th-century HH Hankin Hay and Grain warehouse – is laid back and comfortable with brick walls, hardwood floors and hewn beams.

Found in a former hay and grain warehouse, South Street Brewery is just one block from Charlottesville’s downtown mall.

Cozy up to the bar, since table servers are busy with the college crowd on Fridays. Bartenders are friendly and dispense information about the area, along with what’s currently on tap. Try Satan’s Pony Amber Ale – a highly balanced blend of hops, malt and roasted flavors, it’s the perfect nightcap.

Blue Mountain’s Barrel House: Rise and shine

At the Blue Mountain Barrel House in Arrington, Imperial Stout is aged in charred American bourbon barrels to create the magic of Dark Hollow.

Barrel House is Blue Mountain’s new production facility in Arrington, and it’s recommended that you begin here on Saturday at 11 a.m. with a nice breakfast beer like Rockfish Wheat.

Which leads me to declare: I drank wheat beer. And I liked it.

I’m not particularly fond of a beer that’s always unfiltered and usually smacks of banana taffy. But Rockfish Wheat and Blue Mountain’s other beers – Kolsch 151, Uber Pils, Full Nelson IPA and the cask-conditioned Local Species and Dark Hollow –deftly avoid clichés while remaining true-to-form.

Beers are available to sample or by the glass, and tours of the impressive facility are held on weekends. You’ll learn about their old-school parti-gyle system that’s unique to the region and creates a brother and sister beer from the same mash. This tour’s perhaps the best one on the trail.

Wild Wolf Brewing Company: Take it easy

With its biergarten, playground, ponds, water wheel and shopping village, Wild Wolf Brewing Company in Nellysford could easily win an award as the trail’s most charming stop. Relaxing outside and enjoying a great meal by the Inn-at-Little-Washington-trained chef – with the best of the Eagles wafting through the patio – you almost forget you’re at a brewery.

The pond, playground, working water wheel and casual biergarten make Wild Wolf a favorite with families.

But make no mistake: Brew Master Danny Wolf is crafting great beers behind his adorably rustic curtain. Wild Wolf Pils, Alpha Ale, Wee Heavy Ale, and Black Wolf IBA (it’s black, not pale) make up the menu of house beers, along with Blonde Hunny Ale that’s had a little help from the bees at Hungry Hill Farm. Seasonal beers are also offered, and all brews reflect Wild Wolf’s happy twist and creativity.

The main building – once a Nelson County high school – is cozy on fall days, and converted tobacco barns host a village of boutiques selling gift items. If you’d like to try your hand at the brewer’s art, visit Libation for supplies – they’ll set you up with everything you need.

The diminutive village at Wild Wolf Brewing Company hosts boutiques selling gifts and brewing supplies in converted tobacco sheds.

Devils Backbone Brewing Company: Toast the sunset

The sweeping vistas that surround Devils Backbone in Roseland make this a great destination at any time of day, but plan for an early evening arrival. As the sun sets and the overhead lights come up on the patio, you’ll have that one sublime moment. Sipping on Vienna Style Lager – awarded a gold medal in the 2012 World Beer Cup – you know it doesn’t get much better than this.

Devils Backbone Brewing Company, located at the base of Wintergreen, is a lively stop in any season.

Devils Backbone offers a full line of tradition-steeped favorites, including a pilsner, hefeweizen, IPA, wit bier, rye ale and their crowd-pleasing seasonal, the Ale of Fergus.

The interior of the building resembles a hunting lodge, complete with stonework crafted from local river rock. Moose heads, mountain goats and black bear peer over your shoulder as if to read the menu, which features organic veggies and herbs that have been grown onsite.

Blue Mountain Brewery: Say goodbye with brunch

Blue Mountain’s restaurant in Afton serves Sunday brunch, lunch and dinner in a laid-back setting.

Blue Mountain’s Afton location prepares its food from scratch – using local ingredients whenever possible – and grows the hops for Full Nelson IPA right on the property. A visit to the area isn’t complete without sampling their gourmet pizza or choosing from an inspired menu that reflects the season.

Enjoy Sunday brunch at 11 a.m. – you’ll appreciate a last chance to drink one of Blue Mountain’s superb beers while gazing out at the mountains from the patio.

Dine on Blue Mountain’s patio for veggie pizza with a view.

The Boar’s Head: Detox and decompress

Who knew tasting beer could be so grueling? Returning to base camp at the Boar’s Head in Charlottesville every evening provides the perfect recharge, with spa services that replenish and renew. Make appointments for massages, facials and beauty treatments – as well as soaks, wraps and other detoxifying therapies.

The Boars Head in Charlottesville graciously combines Southern hospitality with fine dining, an award-winning golf course and state-of-the-art athletic facilities.

The Boars Head just completed extensive renovations to their guest rooms, and each creates a soothing environment with one of the most comfortable beds for miles around. Sink right into those uber-high-thread-count sheets; you know you want to.

The resort offers dining options ranging from the romantic Old Mill Room – with elements from a gristmill built in the 19^th century – to the intimate Bistro 1834 – where a Burger and Beer dinner is featured from August 11 – 19. Signature creations include farm-fresh ingredients paired with local brews on a memorable menu. Tuck into the Dark Starr Stout Chocolate Cake before tucking into bed.

The resort is set on 573 acres of idyllic Virginia countryside, offering numerous photo opportunities and a place to unwind.

The Boars Head provides plenty of ways to work off those extra carbs. The 18-hole Birdwood Golf Course offers 500 acres of challenging terrain, and the resort boasts a fitness center that contains state-of-the-art equipment as well as a climbing wall, three swimming pools and 26 USTA-regulation tennis courts. Volleyball, basketball and squash courts ensure there’s something for everyone, and over 50 classes are offered ranging from aerobics to Zumba.

Y’all come back now                                                                                                                                                 

A weekend in Virginia’s burgeoning beer country reveals an unexpected treasure: Handcrafted brews and innovative food in a farmland setting that’ll knock your socks off. The laidback-yet-industrious vibe sends a clear message: Join us! This is how life can be! Honestly, you’ll want to sell the house, grab the dog, move to Nelson County and start a hop farm.

August has been named the first ever Virginia Craft Beer Month by the state’s General Assembly, proof that our love for handcrafted cold ones is here to stay. Wild Wolf Brewing Company owner Mary Wolf predicts that the future looks bright, since, “People love local beer, and craft beer is so flavorful and interesting. The more people discover, the more they want!”

When you go …

• Bring growlers to refill, as not all brewers sell bottled or canned beers.
• Consult brewer’s websites for hours, tours, beer dinners, music and events.
• Plan your stay at the Boar’s Head by visiting http://www.boarsheadinn.com/
• Find breweries and restaurants serving craft beer at http://www.virginia.org/craftbeer.
• Visit the Craft Beer Festival on August 25; info at http://virginiacraftbrewersfest.com.

Cans of Starr Hill beer on their way to thirsty customers.

Norton gets a day out. All photos by Paul Jean

Destination: Alexandria, Virginia

They’re our very best friends, our walking companions and our therapists. We tuck them into beadazzled hand bags, dress them in raincoats and galoshes and prune them like so much topiary at Disney World. And yet they love us. Unconditionally.

This day trip gives proper thanks to our loyal canine companions.

Del Ray’s Dairy Godmother is a cool place to begin a trip that’s all about dogs.

Grab a bench in front of The Dairy Godmother in Alexandria’s Del Ray neighborhood, where Wisconsin-style frozen custard rules. Here Puppy Pops come in two flavors – pumpkin and banana – and are made with doggie digestive systems in mind from peanut butter and plain yogurt. Best of all, ten cents from the sale of every Puppy Pop goes to a charity that benefits animal companions.

Humans enjoy dense, smooth frozen custard in chocolate and vanilla, as well as the flavor-of-the-day. Sorbets capture the fresh tastes of the season and contain no fat, dairy products or eggs. The Godmother is also known for light and luscious homemade marshmallows – treats that will have you coming back and begging for more.

Old Town Alexandria is one of the most dog-friendly shopping districts in America, with several stores that set out bowls of water, pass out treats and even welcome Fido to step inside. Following an afternoon of hoofing it, visit The Dog Park at 705 King St. Your buddy will appreciate a break from the heat, and you’ll love the selection of collars, bowls, toys and treats. Buy a few cookies in the shape of palm trees, starfish and ice cream cones for an on-the-spot reward that celebrates summer.

Baked goodies at The Dog Park are crunchy, creative and Norton-approved.

Just around the corner at 139 S. Fairfax St., The Enchanted Florist offers doggie treats from a charming wooden dispenser on its stretch of sidewalk real estate. Floral arrangements and gifts for the humans in your life are found inside.

Norton’s tip: The Enchanted Florist in Old Town keeps treats in its dispenser for a quick snack.

Join in the Yappy Hour at the Hotel Monaco at 480 King St. It’s a well-known fact that the folks on the opposite end of a dog leash tend to be friendly, but those who congregate in the courtyard at the Hotel Monaco every Tuesday and Thursday evening from April through October at 5 p.m. are the happiest around. Locals mingle with hotel guests while dogs perform the requisite sniff tests, and most are on their very best behavior.

If you shy away from off-leash dog parks, this is the place for you – socializing your tethered dog while sipping on beer or wine and enjoying Jackson 20’s snacks is very civilized, indeed. Tavern bites include market oysters, shrimp salad, burgers, ribs, a charcuterie board and a cheese sampler. The BBQ pork sliders, deviled eggs, fried green tomatoes, J20 fries and house-made tater tots are priced at $5 per plate for Yappy Hour.

Each pup is given a bowl of water and free treats by a friendly staff that fawns over your dog as if he were royalty. A few rules apply to keep things fun for everyone; visit www.monaco-alexandria.com for details.

Friends gather in the Hotel Monaco’s courtyard for a weekly Yappy Hour.

You’ll want to stay until the crowd disperses … but don’t. There’s still more to do during this day that’s all about dogs.

There’s always an entertainer in the crowd …

The Torpedo Factory Art Center has long been recognized as a haven for the creative, with 82 working artist studios, six galleries, the Art League School and an Archaeological Museum. But did you know the Torpedo Factory welcomes well-behaved, leashed dogs? Some artists produce pet portraits, so you can commission a lasting souvenir of this dog-friendly day trip. The Torpedo Factory stays open until 9 on Thursday nights.

The Potomac Riverboat Company’s Canine Cruise departs at 7 and 8 p.m. from the dock behind the Torpedo Factory. Every Thursday evening dozens of dogs embark – on a journey that’s remarkably free of barking – around Alexandria’s seaport. Tour guides point out important landmarks and share local lore, while humans and canines kick back and enjoy a cool breeze off the water.

The cruise lasts 40 minutes, and tickets are $15 per adult, $9 per child and free for furry friends. Since this is a popular event, advanced ticket purchases are highly recommended and may be made online at www.potomacriverboatco.com. Tickets are also sold at the company’s kiosk on the waterfront.

The Torpedo Factory stays open for art lovers – and their dogs – on Thursday evenings.

With the dog days of summer upon us, the time is right to treat your best friend to a vacation day and thank him for all he does. After all, where would we be without our dogs? And, as comedian George Carlin once observed, it’s not right to make a dog just lie around on his day off — that’s his regular job!

Treat time! Best part of the entire cruise, from a dog’s perspective.

• Take this day trip on a Thursday to enjoy all of its elements.
• Dogs must be well-behaved and connected to a 6-foot leash. The usual clean-up rules apply.
• For a complete list of dog friendly stores and eateries, consult www.visitalexandriava.com.

Potomac Riverboat Company’s Canine Cruise heads back to dry land after a successful trip.

Copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.

Ben Franklin whimsically observed, “What is a butterfly? At best, he’s but a caterpillar – dressed!”

At the Wings of Fancy exhibit in Brookside Gardens, over 300 of nature’s best dressed insects dance on air and flit from perch to perch – basking on rocks, lighting on colorful flowers and parking themselves on your shoulder – with artful wings and graceful bodies that delight visitors of all ages.

One of several gazebos found in Brookside Gardens. All photos by Paul Jean

Brookside Gardens, a 50-acre, award-winning horticultural display inside the 536-acre Wheaton Regional Park, is also home to numerous gardens and two conservatories that attract photographers and nature lovers year round. More formal are the Perennial Garden, Yew Garden, Maple Terrace and Fragrance Garden, but I preferred taking  in the casual tranquility of the Aquatic Garden, Azalea Garden, Children’s Garden, Japanese Garden and, of course, the Butterfly Garden.

Benches under a pergola on the perimeter of the Rose Garden tempted me to stay all day, but instead I decided to follow a meandering path over to the Wings of Fancy conservatory. Here hundreds of butterflies float freely in an enclosed environment. Between the hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily from May 5 through September 16, visitors may experience the exotic beauty of African, Asian and Costa Rican varieties, as well North American favorites.

The Rose Garden abounds in color.

Upon entering you’ll learn about their life cycle, from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis to adult butterfly. You’ll also learn a few rules to keep our fragile friends safe and secure.

What comes next is a visual treat: Over 300 butterflies of 70 different species dance along colorful gardens, playing tag with each other and effortlessly decorating the day. Kids love to sit on a bench in the middle of the garden and watch as butterflies swirl around and flit through a nearby wooden arbor. Photo opportunities abound, with more than a few Christmas-card-worthy moments.

Wings of Fancy at Montgomery County’s Brookside Gardens is one of those rare attractions that appeals to just about everyone, lifting the spirits and bridging the gap between generations. And a visit that includes the larger Wheaton Regional Park provides a busy day trip with something for everyone, promising to draw you back all summer long.

A trip into the Flight of Fancy Conservatory will delight and amaze visitors of all ages.

When you go:

• Admission to Wings of Fancy is $6 for adults and $4 for ages 3 – 12.
• Tickets may be purchased at the Visitors Center or at one of the gift shops.
• Strollers are not allowed in the exhibit.          
• Groups of 15 or more welcomed by appointment only.
• For additional information visit www.brooksidegardens.org.

Photos from Our Day

The botanical conservatory

The Conservatory

A coneflower

Dwarf Powderpuff Tree

Honeysuckle - Cane-like Begonia

Neoregelia Tangerine Bromeliad - Closeup

Flight of Fancy Butterfly Display

————————————————

Hidden in plain sight on the grounds of the Armed Forces Retirement Home in Northwest Washington, D.C., Lincoln’s Cottage affords the visitor a rare opportunity to connect with the simple-yet-complex man who was our 16th president.

Lincoln had hoped that his retreat would provide much-needed relief from balmy Washington summers. Photo: Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, photograph by Carol M. Highsmith, reproduction number LC-DIG-highsm- 10349

Abraham Lincoln used the 34-room Gothic Revival house on the outskirts of our nation’s capital as a retreat – his Camp David – during the summers of 1862, 1863 and 1864, spending a combined one-quarter of his presidency here. At this cottage he hoped to escape the heat of the summer, the pressure of the presidency and the stress of the ongoing Civil War.

Lincoln’s three-mile daily commute to the White House took about 40 minutes on horseback or by carriage – about the same as it might today with traffic being what it is. Along the roadside, the president often stopped to talk to wounded soldiers who had just returned from the front. Lincoln had a life-long desire to connect with ordinary people, and the insight he gained from this rapport helped him make decisions in his role as Commander in Chief.

He felt so at home at the cottage that he began to refer to his office in the White House as “the shop.” And while the summer home did provide relief from the daily grind, it did not prove to be much of an escape from the war. Union camps dotted the grounds, and our first National Cemetery was in plain view of the house –a constant reminder of mounting casualties.

Lincoln was remarkably accessible to the public, and a steady stream of visitors made the trek to see him in the evenings. He received callers in the drawing room, where he willingly chatted with those who stopped by.

Bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln at Lincoln’s Summer Home, Washington, D.C. Photo: Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, photograph by Carol M. Highsmith, reproduction number LC-DIG-highsm- 10352

A docent-led tour brings you to the same room, where you’ll hear the words of a late-night visitor who arrived unannounced to find the president sporting bedroom slippers and ruffled hair, sharing stories of his modest upbringing.

This is Abraham Lincoln unplugged. Down-to-earth and introspective, he was relatively unspoiled by the trappings of his office.

Unlike many historic sites associated with the presidents, Lincoln’s Cottage is not about furniture, china, or pomp and circumstance. It’s about a humble man who rose to greatness while remaining grounded. It’s about a man who loved his country so much that he worked tirelessly to put it back together again, with little regard for personal expense.

In this house Lincoln mourned his young son, and in its library he enjoyed the books of the times. Here he plotted Union war strategy and drafted the Emancipation Proclamation. The last day he visited the cottage was the day before his assassination.

Lincoln’s Cottage opened to the public for the first time in 2008, after an extensive $15 million restoration project by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The cottage may only be seen by guided tour, during which visitors walk in the footsteps of Abraham Lincoln and explore the major issues of his presidency – war, freedom and democracy.

This portrait of Abraham Lincoln was taken by Alexander Gardner on Feb. 5, 1865. Photo: Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number LC-DIG-ppmsca-19469.

Groups are small, and reservations – which are highly recommended – may be made at www.lincolnscottage.org. Tickets for the one-hour tour are $15 and include admission to the Robert H. Smith Visitors Center.

Plan to arrive 15 minutes early to check in at the Visitors Center, and return after the tour to explore thought-provoking displays on Lincoln’s life.

Several museum exhibits provide insight on Lincoln’s self-deprecating sense of humor – revealed by a display on the 1858 debate with Stephen Douglas. When Douglas accused Lincoln of being two-faced, Lincoln quipped, “I leave it to you, my audience: If I were two-faced, would I be wearing this one?”

A life-size bronze sculpture of our 16^th president and his horse – on the grounds outside the cottage – recalls Lincoln’s daily commute to and from the White House, and further points to the ordinary life of this extraordinary man.

When you go …

• Parking is abundant and free.
• Prepare to show photo ID as you pass the guard shack.
• Tickets are $15 and may be purchased online.
• Same-day ticket purchases are subject to availability.
• No strollers or photography are allowed inside the buildings.

What Would Lincoln Eat?

Hank’s Oyster Bar, a Dupont Circle favorite, is the ideal place to enjoy one of Lincoln’s favorite foods after touring his historic summer retreat.

In the mid-1800s oysters were well-established fare in taverns up and down the East Coast, and so the munchable mollusk quickly migrated westward. Oyster wagons that were the 19^th century equivalent of Fed Ex trucks rushed briny cargo to big cities, and oyster saloons became popular meeting spots for politicians and public servants.

One country lawyer in Illinois was no exception.

That Abraham Lincoln so embraced the humble pub grub spoke to the unpretentious nature of the man. He was said to have shoveled out fried oysters to the public as part of his campaign strategy in 1864.

Hank’s Oyster Bar in Dupont Circle serves up more than oysters to a happy crowd. Photo by Paul Jean.

Hank’s Oyster Bar serves up oysters – and other seafood – in a down-to-earth yet stylish setting that’s a quick detour off 17^th Street on your way home from Lincoln’s Cottage.

Small plates –oysters and clams on the half-shell, jumbo shrimp cocktail, and sake oyster shooters, as well as tender morsels of fried oysters, shrimp and calamari – make satisfying snacks. Large plates – lobster rolls, seared scallops and fried oysters – make even a New Englander smile.

Parking in Dupont Circle is limited, but patience pays off; ride around the block a couple of times, as cars come and go often. We nabbed free on-street parking near the restaurant in the middle of a Saturday afternoon in a matter of minutes. Hank’s is well worth the effort.

By Elaine Jean

A day trip to Maryland’s west coast of the Chesapeake Bay offers a slice of escapism, within an hour of the Metro D.C. area. Best of all, you won’t have to cross the Bay Bridge or sit in beach traffic to get there.

The Chesapeake Beach Hotel and Spa offers attractions, services and events to enjoy during a day trip to the Bay. All photos by Paul Jean.

If you’re a beach bum who’s short on time, short on funds or short on gas, chart your course for the Chesapeake Beach Resort and Spa in the town of Chesapeake Beach. Here you can park for free and walk to surrounding attractions, getting your lay of the land at the diminutive but charming Chesapeake Beach Railway Museum.

Housed in an old railroad station, the museum highlights the intertwined histories of two romantic beach towns that grew up around the Washington and Chesapeake Railway Company’s lavish resort. Woolen swim suits, antique souvenirs and a scale model of the waterfront amusement district bring into focus a bygone era.

Turn-of-the-century beach lovers arrived at the town’s train station, which is now a quaint museum.

By the beginning of the 20^th century, people arrived by train and steamboat to enjoy the mile-long pier and grand boardwalk – featuring a bowling alley, band shell, games of chance, casino and even dancing bears. A spectacular addition, the Great Derby rollercoaster, was built over the water in 1915.

Hurricanes, fires, and the Depression spelled doom for the development, and the dream of a park to rival Coney Island and Atlantic City was pretty much over by 1935. But while the amusements are now long gone, nostalgia lingers in everything from the architecture to the seafood. And there are plenty of activities for people of all ages and interests to enjoy.

Today’s Chesapeake Beach Resort and Spa is reminiscent of many of the grand old beach resorts of the Mid-Atlantic. It boasts two marinas that offer charter fishing excursions and transient boat slips, a day spa that offers pampering massage therapy, and three appealing restaurants – the Rod ‘N’ Reel, Smokey Joe’s Grill and the Boardwalk Café.

Enjoy refreshing drinks and casual fare at the hotel’s Boardwalk Café.

The latter is perched right on the water, and it’s a particularly good place to grab some appetizers and a fru-fru drink – because nothing says vacation day like a beverage packed with fruit and rum and an umbrella. If the family wants more action, ask anyone at the hotel for directions to Brownie’s Beach for ancient shark tooth collecting, or visit the water park across the street for plenty of fun in the sun.

The Chesapeake Beach Water Park boasts eight water slides, fountains, waterfalls, a lagoon and a kids’ activity pool.

For a mere 25 cents you can hop the Beach Trolley to nearby North Beach for a whole ‘nother experience. A thriving community of summer cottages back in the day, its residents enjoyed the amusements of Chesapeake Beach along with a few casinos of their own.

Now a half-mile long boardwalk is the centerpiece of the town, along side a petite strand of beach with a Welcome Center that offers everything you need to make your day at the Bay a success. Bike and boat rentals? Check. Umbrellas and chairs? Ditto that. North Beach may be small, but it has all the amenities of the big guys.

The sand and surf at North Beach offer a slice of seaside life just one hour from Washington, DC.

One block from the beach is the Bay Avenue shopping district, with unique establishments where you can grab an ice cream cone, some old fashioned candy and the necessary beach supplies. Two antique stores, an award winning bakery, an eclectic gift shop, a local history museum, several restaurants and a wine store round out the choices.

The shops on Bay Avenue are housed in unique architecture and sell a little bit of everything.

North Beach charges admission to the sand and sells fishing and crabbing permits – with some luck, you may even catch dinner. If the fish aren’t biting, just drive over to the dockside bar at Skipper’s Pier in Deale and feast on the local fare.

Skipper’s has traditionally received a slew of awards from Chesapeake Bay Magazine for some of the best oysters, crab cakes and steamed crabs around. The new management has added a Sunday Brunch from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at just $13.99.  But while you might come for the seafood, you’ll stay for the views. And the Malibu Black Painkillers.

The steamed crabs at Skipper’s Pier are some of the freshest and best in the area, and the view is tough to beat.

On a recent visit we saw a boat pull up to the dock, unloading its catch and delivering crabs right to the kitchen. Ours tasted just that fresh. Sailboats and other pleasure craft slid past us out on Herring Bay and live music filled the air, along with the voices of our deck mates.

And for the remainder of the day, this was the only spot in the universe. Just sittin’ on the dock of the Bay …

When you go

• Admission to the Chesapeake Beach Railway Museum is free.
• Admission to the Chesapeake Beach Water Park ranges from $16 – 18, based on height.
• Access to Brownie’s Beach is $9 for adults and $7 for children 3-11 and seniors over 55.
• Access to North Beach is $10 for adults, $6 for kids ages 3 to 11.
• North Beach fishing permits are $5 for one pole and $3 for the second.
• Crabbing is $5 for the first trap and $3 for the second.
• Check websites for hours of operation.

This North Beach mural captures the peaceful, easy feeling of a day at the Bay.

Every once in a while it soothes the soul to step back and take a look at the bigger picture, and that’s why a visit to the nearby Tibetan Buddhist temple makes a most pleasant day trip.

Buddhist deities are represented at this alter, which is framed by sacred texts. All photos by Paul Jean

Escape the trappings of everyday life by hiking trails and appreciating the sacred monuments in Peace Park, enjoying the beauty of parrots and macaws in the Garuda Aviary, and touring a temple that looks like it’s from the other side of the world.

First of all, know that everyone is welcome at Kunzang Palyul Choling’s 72-acre campus – one of the largest communities of ordained practitioners of Buddhism in the country. Buddhism is not a religion of conversion so KPC is a spiritual haven for everyone, including the casual day tripper.

A sand mandala is housed in an elaborate silk structure, with alter and offerings in the foreground.

The KPC temple was founded by Jetsunma Ahkon Lhama – nee Alice Zeoli – of Brooklyn, NY. She is the first Western woman to be recognized as Tulka, or reincarnate Lama and lineage holder, in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition. Jetsunma is an honorific title associated with Tara – the female Buddha who nurtures, protects and cares for all living beings with boundless compassion.

While many of the rituals and adornments you see here may be new to you, there’s a certain feeling of comfort and familiarity that starts when you pull into the parking lot amid bumper stickers that encourage you to “Visualize Whirled Peas,” “Practice Random Acts of Kindness,” and “Free Tibet.”

The feeling continues when you step up to the door of the roomy colonial house in rural Montgomery County. But on the other side, a whole ‘nother world awaits. A peaceful, welcoming, orderly world. The setting is ideal for this brand of Buddhism that bridges the ancient wisdom of Tibet with the contemporary mind of the West.

A close-up reveals the intricate beauty of Kunzang Palyul Choling.

The Dharma Room is the educational center, featuring a large sand mandala, two elaborate teaching thrones and several alters with offerings to the deities,  as well as richly colored tonkas – traditional paintings on silk – and numerous sacred texts. The visual impact is dramatic, dashing my preconceived notion of monastic Zen-like simplicity.

The room is home to an enormous collection of crystals, representing the natural mind with no distractions. The crystals are another example of East-meets-West in this place that seeks to inspire people to improve the world and bring an end to the suffering of all sentient beings.

From this throne in the Dharma Room, teachers share the path to enlightenment.

Nowhere is this mission more evident than in the Prayer Room, where a 24-hour prayer vigil for world peace started in 1985 and has continued unbroken until this day. The vigil is known as the “heartbeat of the temple” and will continue until there is no longer a need. Prayer requests may be made in the book outside the door.

Kunzang Palyul Choling students maintain a 24-hour vigil for world peace in the prayer room.

On the grounds, visitors may see the 36-foot-tall Enlightenment Stupa. These religious monuments are one of the oldest forms of sacred architecture, built to avert war, end famine and promote general well-being. Visiting the stupas is believed to bring spiritual comfort and inspiration, and everyone is invited to walk clockwise around them while reciting prayers or mantras.

An additional 29 stupas are found across River Road, in the serene, wooded setting of Peace Park. Meditation gardens are at the four points of the compass and in the middle of the park, where the 35-foot golden Migyar Dorje Stupa – dedicated to spiritual and physical well being – is located. This stupa contains relics of the 17th century teacher of the founders of the Palyul Lineage.

Everyone is invited to share the serene setting of the stupas at Peace Park.

At Peace Park, everyone is welcome; it’s considered sacred land that’s dedicated to the benefit of all beings. The park is open from dawn to dusk, offering a great place to relax and reflect, as well as to picnic and walk your leashed dog. Pets, in fact, have a special place at KPC.

The Migyar Dorje Stupa is the focal point of the park, located at its center.

Two animal rescue organizations – Tara’s Babies Animal Welfare and the Garuda Aviary – were founded under the guidance of Jetsunma.Tara’s Babies is a dog and cat rescue organization that participates in the no-kill movement, and the Garuda Aviary provides sanctuary for abandoned, abused and neglected large birds such as parrots and macaws.

Located next to the temple, the aviary –open at various times throughout the week and usually on Saturday afternoons from 1-7 p.m. – will give you a new understanding of the plight of our misunderstood feathered friends.

Most people purchase parrots for beauty and entertainment, usually with the best of intentions. But the constant screeching, chattering and chewing soon grows old, leading 1.2 million birds to be abandoned annually or to suffer from neglect or abuse. The Garuda Aviary provides a life-long sanctuary for those who reside here, offering food, stimulation and a loving environment.

Enjoy the tragic beauty of macaws and parrots at the Garuda Aviary.

On Saturday, June 16, the aviary is hosting a gala event from noon to 4 p.m. A number of large birds will be on view in their outdoor flight cage, and talks and videos will be presented, focusing on the plight of the captured exotic birds. Guided tours of the temple will also be offered, along with live music by the B-12 Boosters, games for the kids and a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian foods.

The Mani Jewel Gift Shop sells incense, wind chimes, meditation cushions and other items. Books on Buddhism-related topics, as well as teachings by Jetsunma and other Buddhist masters, are also available. Bring a little feng shui home with you!

Here in the DC area, we are pretty good at juggling five balls and a plate in the air at the same time … with one hand tied behind our backs. Most of us are rabid overachievers, and we kind of like it that way. But a day at Kunzang Palyul Choling is a day to enjoy the unexpected. And that peaceful, easy feeling lingers all the way home.

The campus at Kunzang Palyul Choling offers a place to relax and reflect.

When you go …

• Sundays are devoted to welcoming visitors.
• The 11 a.m. Sunday Service includes a food ceremony and all are welcome.
• Visitors should not wear unreasonably revealing clothing.
• Shoes must be removed before entering the Prayer Room and the Teaching Room.
• The gift shop is open Monday through Friday, 2-6 p.m. and weekends, 12-6 p.m.
• For your safety, please sign in at the temple before hiking in Peace Park.

The Gari Melchers Home and Studio at Belmont, just across the Rappahannock River and outside the town of Fredericksburg, is a time capsule dedicated to the life and work of a multi-faceted artist who once enjoyed international acclaim. A visit will properly acquaint you with him, and surely endear him to you.

American impressionist Gari Melchers and his wife, Corinne, created a comfortable retreat at Belmont. Photo by Paul Jean

The elegant-yet-homey country house, filled with his personal knick knacks and eclectic mix of furnishings, reveals much about Gari Melchers (1860-1932) and exudes warmth not typically associated with the period. His studio reveals even more about the talented American impressionist who explored several distinct styles throughout his career.

The house and grounds have been restored to their appearance in the 1920s. Photo by Paul Jean

Not familiar with the work of Gari Melchers? Neither was I until recently, and that’s why this day trip feels a bit like a gift. A fitting analogy since Melchers’ widow, Corinne, deeded the estate to the Commonwealth of Virginia in 1942 as a lasting tribute to her husband.

Gari Melchers’ desk is just as he might have left it before a quick trip to Falmouth. Photo courtesy of Gari Melchers Home and Studio.

Gari Melchers’ talent was in the honest characterization of the everyday people around him, and his personal mantra was “true and clear.” He celebrated local villagers caught in their routine moments, both in the Dutch seaside community where he once resided and here, near Belmont.

He also painted the rich and famous – people with names like Vanderbilt, Mellon and Roosevelt. His work has timeless appeal for its depiction of a slice-of-life; Melchers was capturing real people on his canvas, whether famous or not. Unadorned and unplugged.

The best way to start the day is with the brief biographical video shown in the Visitors Center, where tickets may be purchased and a wealth of information is given away. Next, a tour of the couple’s 18^th century home brings their lives into focus.

As a docent leads you through each room, you’ll get to know Gari and Corinne Melchers through stories about their courtship, daily routines, marriage and partnership. And you’ll feel their presence through abundant signs of life – keys, books, reading glasses, a shaving kit and even Dutch clogs from Gari’s early days in Holland. It’s as if our hosts have just stepped out to visit the local pub.

Gari and Corinne Melchers collected antiques and artifacts during their travels, including a favorite French Savonnerie carpet. Photo courtesy of Gari Melchers Home and Studio.

Their personal art collection fills the walls, and anecdotes about these paintings have a certain entertainment factor. You quickly get the idea that Gari and Corinne Melchers were likeable, fun people.

But that’s not to say that Gari Melchers was not serious about his work. Those who knew him well described him as a man who, quite simply, lived to paint.

The painting Market Scene – produced by the workshop of Flemish painter Frans Snyder – takes center stage in the dining room. Photo courtesy of Gari Melchers Home and Studio.

The artist’s devotion to his work is evidenced by a visit to the nearby studio building, which Melchers designed in 1924 to incorporate a dramatic window granting him that one essential ingredient: Northern light.

Stepping into the studio allows you to enter his creative world. The drop-dead gorgeous setting is filled with Melchers’ original tools – worn and aged tubes of paint, varnish, pastels and brushes, as well as numerous paintings by the artist and his colleagues.

The studio combines form with function, showcasing 1,600 items – including the largest collection of Melchers’ work anywhere. Photo by Paul Jean

Of note is an unfinished painting, From the Porch, with a small practice piece next to it. The painting was probably in progress at the time of the artist’s death in 1932.

Melchers painted Native of Virginia in 1925, capturing a local woman in her daily routine. Photo by Paul Jean

The studio and its two lower galleries showcase the span of Melchers’ career – from his beginning as a realistic painter, through the Dutch years, and to his celebrated period as an American impressionist.

Many of the paintings from his time at Belmont –when he walked the streets of Falmouth in white coveralls looking for subjects to paint – are on display. It is these paintings that made him famous in the art circles of both New York City and San Francisco.

Be sure to explore the grounds of the 27-acre retreat, where outbuildings include a spring house, smoke house, cow barn and stable. Trails at Belmont lead through groomed gardens and along woodland walks, and a free map is available at the Visitors Center. Although the trip to the river is just 20 minutes, the terrain is uneven and proper footwear is recommended.

Finally, linger in the colorful, restored gardens on stone pathways that are lined with boxwood shrubs and trimmed with rose-covered arbors – the perfect place to ponder an artist who has almost been forgotten yet still has the power to delight.

The Melchers added a spectacular sun room on to the side of the house and lined their walkways with gardens. Photo by Paul Jean

Would Gari Melchers mind that his work no longer receives the recognition that it once did? I tend to doubt it. He woke up everyday to witness the pastoral beauty of this retreat. He had found and married the love of his life. And every single day, he got to do what he loved most of all.

As the artist himself explained it, “Nothing matters in the world to the painter, but a good picture.”

Amy’s Café … Down by the River
Amy’s Café  is located in a cozy 200-year-old brick building in Falmouth Bottom. This building and many of the others in the small village have changed little since Gari and Corrine Melchers lived at Belmont, and photos of their old ‘hood line the walls.

Amy’s Café is a comfortable spot to grab a bite and meet some of the locals. Photo by Paul Jean

Amy’s serves good old-fashioned breakfasts, soups, salads, appetizers and dinners, plus a decent array of beer and wine, and you’ll hear live acoustic music here on Saturday afternoons.

We stopped by for some loaded nachos, a couple of beers and a history lesson – learning that Amy’s is constructed mostly of ballast bricks from a cargo ships, and that it has served as a tavern, a cotton warehouse and a general store.

With all those previous lives, I wondered aloud if the place was haunted. To that, our server quickly presented photographic evidence of paranormal activity at Amy’s.

Stop in for a bite, and see for yourself …

When you go …

• The museum is open from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily except on Wednesdays.
• Tickets are $10 for adults, $9 for AAA members and free for students 18 & under.
• Picnic tables are scattered throughout the grounds.
• Watch “True and Clear” before you go.
• Gari Melchers Home and Studio is under the administration of the University of Mary Washington.

The artist designed his creative space to exude an old-world flavor. Photo by Paul Jean

 Historic Photos

Images from the
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

Reproduction Number: LC-DIG-csas-05827
All photographs taken by Frances Benjamin Johnston (1864-1952) between 1927 and 1929

The 1921 Dentzel carousel features 52 animals that have been meticulously and lovingly restored. Courtesy of Glen Echo Park

Glen Echo Park
Glen Echo Park was established in 1888, when two brothers with a winning design for an egg beater used their fame and fortune to mix up the local real estate market.

Edwin and Edward Baltzey purchased 516 acres along the Potomac River with the lofty goal of developing a neighborhood that was so much more than a place to live, offering the opportunity for residents to learn and grow right in their own backyard.

The brothers Baltzey envisioned their location would include a nationally recognized Chautauqua center, hosting the family-friendly summer camps that were made popular by Methodists in New York. Chautauquas offered the culture of the city – speakers, musicians, entertainers and preachers – in a rural setting.

By the late 19^th century the movement was in full swing, and Glen Echo was chosen as the location of the 53^rd Chautauqua Assembly in 1891. In order to accommodate the park’s summer visitors the Baltzeys went big on their design, building a 6,000-seat amphitheater perched over Minnehaha Creek with a speaker system fueled by water.

They broke ground on a railroad that would eventually reduce travel time from Washington, D.C., marketing their endeavor as “The Washington Rhine.” They even attracted Clara Barton, the founder of the American Red Cross, to live in the community. The brothers appeared to be unstoppable.

Despite a successful launch, their second year proved problematic due to poor weather and economic downturn. The Chautauqua soon ended, and the park evolved to include encampments, vaudeville acts and operas. In 1899, amusement rides arrived on the scene.

By 1903, Glen Echo had become a destination for trolley riders – providing a full day of entertainment for the price of a train ride – and by 1911, the park had been improved to include a dance pavilion, human roulette wheel and more. Over the years, Glen Echo became known as a state-of-the-art venue with a swimming pool to cool 3,000 bathers.

Streetcars made Glen Echo Park the perfect day trip from Washington, DC. Photograph by David Myers, 1939. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-129912

The 7,500-square-foot Spanish Ballroom was a centerpiece, offering big bands of the era. The park’s popularity peaked in the 1940s, and attendance dropped off severely from 1944-1950. Glen Echo closed in 1968 amid social unrest over civil rights; the harsh reality was that the park had failed to become integrated in a graceful manner.

The National Park Service took over Glen Echo in 1970, and a renaissance began that would transform it into a multi-interest cultural center. Today a partnership between the National Park Service, Montgomery County and the Town of Glen Echo manages its numerous activities.

The nine buildings that make up Glen Echo Historic District have been preserved and put to good use, renewing the creative spirit of the half-million people who visit every year.

The park is now best known for its social dances – ranging from American Swing to Contra and Square Dance – held in the ballroom on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. They’re open to the public, and the cost of admission includes a free lesson.

Resident artists specializing in pottery, calligraphy, glasswork, photography and music hold exhibitions, studio hours and classes for children and adults, and festivals and special events are offered several times each year.

Visitors can also explore nature, ride the 1921 Dentzel Carousel, take in a puppet show, enjoy the thriving artist community, romp in the playground and have a picnic at Glen Echo Park. The Baltzey brothers’ vision has been realized after all, and Glen Echo has come full circle.

Clara Barton National Historic Site
A tour of the nearby Clara Barton National Historic Site reveals much about the founder of the American Red Cross. In this 38-room home, Barton lived, worked, stored supplies and housed volunteers, often blurring the line between personal life and vocation to the point of nonexistence.

Clara Barton’s House served as both her residence and as the headquarters for the American Red Cross. Image taken sometime between 1918 and 1920. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number: LC-DIG-npcc-00232

Best known as the “Angel of the Battlefield,” Barton took care of wounded soldiers from both sides of the Mason-Dixon Line and corresponded with their families, enlisting them to send supplies to their loved ones.

When the Civil War ended, she launched a national campaign to identify missing soldiers, which took a significant toll on her spirit. She was ordered to take a trip to Europe by her doctor, but as we all know, “there’s no rest for the weary.”

Barton joined the relief effort to aid soldiers of the war between France and Prussia, and she witnessed the Red Cross in action. When she returned to America, her life had a renewed purpose, and she founded the American Red Cross to provide aid for the victims of natural disaster.

Known as the Angel of the Battlefield for her work during the Civil War, Clara Barton was the celebrity-in-residence at Glen Echo Park from 1897 to 1912. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-19319

In 1891, the Baltzeys lured Barton to Glen Echo with the promise of free labor and a beautiful knoll of land on which to build her residence. Both creative and frugal, Barton designed a stunning home that exuded warmth and comfort yet remained practical – with hidden nooks and crannies in which to stow bandages and other tools of the healing trade.

The house is restored to give a glimpse of her life there until the time of her death at the age of 90 in 1912. A tour gives visitors a unique opportunity to get to know an outstanding American humanitarian who, with no formal nursing background, devoted her life to the cause of healing the wounded.

When you go…

• Free tours of Glen Echo Park meet at the Arcade Building on the weekend.
• Carousel rides are $1.25, with a $5 minimum for credit card use.
• Visit glenechopark.org for details about hours, lessons, fees and tours.
• Free tours of Clara Barton’s home meet on her porch hourly from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
• Donations are accepted.
• For details visit http://www.nps.gov/clba.
• Parking is abundant and free.

Clara Barton worked to establish the American chapter of the Red Cross and these doors lead to the organization’s original offices. Photo by Paul Jean