Rock Climbing with Rob Pizem

Fianlly we can use the shower again!

2012-02-08T11:58:00.003-07:00

After a few months of having the tiles sink into the wall and a leaky shower, we were able to fix/re tile our shower. Top Jimmy from Golden came out to help us take care of it. I don't know why the photos are getting tilted because they are upright when I upload them.

After the demo work, we needed to raise the shower head, since is was shorter than me.

The new and improved shower head height.

The tools of the trade

The first row of tile is drying .

The finished product.

We also put on a higher shower head in the bath tub too. Now we can wash the boy with ease!
piz : )

Another Day at the Crag

2012-02-08T11:45:00.000-07:00

Jesse demonstrating good balance and foot work

My new shoes for the project, Vapor Laces. SCARPA to the the rescue for my desert project!

The gang on superbowl sunday. So much love : )

The rope in the forefront is hanging on my current project and Jesse is replacing crap anchors to the right.

Jen sniping away.

Jen and Grace showing some teeth!

Get outside and have some fun.
Stay tuned, I will be building some top ten lists for crack, sport, slab and offwidth in and around the grand junction area. If you are looking to balance your skills out on the rocks in the western slope area, this will be the place to find them. They will be on all varieties of rock, sandstone, granite and metamorphic! Spring time will be a perfect time to get outside and hone your skills.
piz : )

6 months

2012-02-03T08:24:00.003-07:00

Eating solids

Hanging with uncle matt

Getting up on his knees

Eating out of a bowl (not really, just messing around and he loves to try to eat from out plates)

Growing hands

My little boy

Such a happy baby

piz : )

Sunshine and Cold

2012-01-28T22:39:00.001-07:00

Had to wear a lot of clothes this weekend even though it was sunny and clear all day.

Jesse taking on another beast of a crack. Purple cams through the roof are just nasty enough to make you fall!

JEsse fixing some anchors all in the name of the ASCA. (american safe climbing association) Yeah we step up and do our part to fix the garbage that others leave behind.

After climbing cracks all day we stopped in for a quick roof crack bouldering session in Unaweep. Jesse crushed and my core was weakend from the bashing that I took on the rope. I will have to come back for this one. We did establish a new problem or two in the area and those barely went down due to our fatigue.

Why would I live anywhere but here?
Get outside and have an adventure.
piz : )

Another thing to occupy my time

2012-01-28T22:27:00.001-07:00

My latest project, three runs on it today and I still didn't do all the moves.
I am in for the long haul. It's very bouldery and not my style, so I am totally into it.
First crux .2/.3 undercling jams with no feet. I can almost do this section.
Next crux overhanging undercling campus moves through a roof.
Last crux pulling the roof on terrible jams and no feet.
Ah yeah, get outside and challenge yourself and enjoy the journey.
piz : )

Winter OR

2012-01-22T19:29:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Salt Lake and it took Chris a little while to find his pass, oh wait, he was going to be me on this trip!

Hanging at the CAMP booth, so many awesome toys!

The coolest bouldering pads and gear.

Jesse and Andy getting down to business.

I made sure that this tri cam was the correct size, HUGE! It doubles as a weapon on the rough streets of SLC.

Dinner with the Burr's.

The newest Burr, So cute and cuddly. I got my time in cuddling and it was nice : )

We got to see a real fireman.... NOT just a tool box.

Keith, Dave and Chris at the pose down.

Chris sniffing out the good give-aways at all the booths. He left no booth unchecked!

Phil Powers of the American Alpine Club introducing the mountain man of the century.

I was psyched to help out during the filming of this small get together and Q and A session with R. Messner.

Parting shot of another legend, Fred Becky. Yes, he is still hitting on the ladies!

The OR is about reconnecting with your friends and sponsors. I would like to thanks all mine in no particular order for another great year of working together. Thanks so much, John at Sterling, Laura at Arcteryx, Jesse at CAMP, Colleen at SCARPA, Keith at Wind-Xtreme and the Eric at the American Alpine Club!

Now I hope the weather stays good for next weekend and some climbing of the cracks. In the meantime its back to taking care of my boy, working with the high school kids and cleaning the house because Jane is hosting the girls and book club this week! Time to make sure that the toilets are clean.
Get outside and have an adventure.
piz : )

Snowy Rifle Day

2012-01-22T19:13:00.000-07:00

Heading into the canyon a couple weekends ago. If I didn't drive the truck I would not have made it with my wifes car.

The calm before the storm.

Mike B getting it on. Notice the nice frozen waterfall in the background. It was a balmy 22 degrees all day. My hands only got cold on the first route cause I had to knock and blow some snow off a few holds.

The snow began to blow into the cave that we were climbing in and cover up the rope bag and rope!

I wore an Arcteryx top and thermal to climb in alond with my windx-treme and arcteryx hat. No socks and no thermals on the legs.

Mike is always ready for a day of climbing no matter what the temps!
Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )

Escalante fun

2012-01-10T19:46:00.002-07:00

Mike actually showed up with tape gloves on. We were still 45 minutes from the climbing area.

I started working on freeing this tips crack next to the S-crack. There is a little roof at the top. I need to brush it just a little but and get the nerve to place gear on lead. Should be a nice addition to the wall. Next time out, I will get some anchors in and clean the rest of the line.

Jeremy owning the liebacking in the canyon. Notice the beautiful bullet hole pattern at his back.

Perfect dihedral climbing on a perfect day.

Get out and climb!

piz : )

2012-01-10T19:36:00.002-07:00

On the way into the Monument looking for a roof crack that I scoped a while back. The plan is to rap in and check it out to see if it is worth climbing on. I have a static line, harness and some cams to keep me safe.

I think that I found the spot after some wandering around. Unfortunately, it was a 200ft rappel to no where. Dang, I had to ascend all that overhanging rope for nothing!

I finally found the crack and where to rap from and it turned out to be all crumbly, short and a total pile. Oh well it was worth checking out the rest of the area and having a little adventure. I did spy something else in the area, but it will require a little more time as it is another couple miles off the road.

Not a bad place to be wandering around.
piz : )

Climbing Magazine

2012-01-10T15:12:00.000-07:00

I am lucky enough to have some more photos printed in the latest issue of Climbing Magazine.
Issue #302 February 2012
You can see them
on page 6 (the upper left hand corner)
on page 16/17 (a two full page spread)
on page 20 (the upper half fo the page)

The photos are from a trip I took over winter break a few years back to a place called the Homestead in Arizona. You can head there and climb on some varied and white limestone. There are crimps and jugs and tufa's. The camping is nice and remote. To shorten the approach it is worth having a 4x4 to get all the way in there. Check out the Mountain Project Website for information on the area and the climbs. Also, go the link that Climbing magazine provides in the article.
Thanks and have a great week!

Green River Tower Summit and me enjoying some wide stuff below.

piz : )

Ames Ice Hose

2012-01-08T16:48:00.033-07:00

Things looked grim in Ouray so we headed to Telluride for the Ames Ice Hose.

Chris Alstrin and I were meeting Jesse to go and climb some ice. While we were at the Arcteryx house in Ouray the night before we set some booby traps for our friends in the house. The chairs would come together when someone tripped on the webbing, knocking down everything in sight! Unfortunately they saw our game and stepped over the trap. Better luck next time!

The ice hose is in the middle of this photo.

This is a better shot fo the whole thing. It is just on the other side of the road from Ophir, Colorado and a pretty short hike from the road.

Jesse and Marni at the parking lot in the morning. Dang there were two cars already there.

Hiking to the route down the slippery slope

The practice area before you get to the Ames Ice Hose. It was running because it hadn't been too cold as of late. A bit dangerous to be climbing on that waterfall. Top roping only.

Jesse, Chris, and Craig at the base of the route. Since we were shooting video we needed to get a rope above Jesse and Craig was the man for the job. A visiting climber from Idaho wanted to climb as much new ice as possible and Craig was really good to watch.

Craig soloing the first pitch. The route was pretty "picked out" so you didn't really have to swing the ice tools very hard. "Picked out" means that enough people have climbed the ice already and that there were already ice tool holes and foot holds made. Basically, it means that it is easier to climb when a route is picked out. You just place the tool in the hole rather than swinging it and breaking the ice.

Chris shooting Jesse on the first pitch

Chris shooting Jesse on the second pitch. It was just as wide as your shoulders and super fun!

Me hanging at a belay

Me on the second pitch. So narrow and so perfect!

Looking up on pitch 2

Chris staying warm at the last belay.

Jesse getting ready to lead the final pitch of ice.

Jesse heading up the last 200 feet of ice.

As the day progressed the snow began to fall. There was a lot of snow falling in a short time!
Get outside and have an adventure!
piz : )

Cleveland Slide Show

2012-01-01T10:42:00.000-07:00

Flying over the rockies, heading home to Cleveland!

Setting up the projector in the yoga room at the Cleveland Rock Gym. What a great space to give a slide show. Yeah, Rowan is my screen saver!

Opening up the AWESOME PRIZE from Sterling Ropes, a 100 gift card!!!

Opening up the AWESOME PRIZES from SCARPA!!!

Setting up the sound for the show with my wife and friends from town.

The grand prize winner at the slide show! It pays to know your biology trivia at my shows.

The timeless Cleveland Rock Gym. Great for community and getting strong. Thanks to Chris Allen for setting this up.

SCARPA gear to give away.

Free goodies.

A cool way to practice your jamming. Chris Allen the gym owner.

Thanks to mom and dad for being Jane and my first baby sitters. Not only was it the first climbing slide show at the Cleveland Rock Gym but it was the first evening where Jane and I were away from Rowan.

piz : )

It's Slide Show Time

2011-12-16T19:12:00.002-07:00

Free Rob Pizem climbing slide show at the Cleveland Rock Gym on December 22, 8pm come and enjoy some stories and slides and donate to the Access Fund!

piz : )

Sunday New Routing

2011-12-13T19:45:00.000-07:00

So, I found this little guy (the overhanging roof crack) just the other day while hiking cliff line with my son Rowan and will be coming back to climb it shortly. Yeah it is steep and sandy and a beautiful line that has my name written all over it. In the mean time, I had my sights set on another dihedral that I had scoped out last year. Ben was game to play with my dream and off we went to a place called Rough Canyon just minutes away from my house in Grand Junction.

After a cold hike at 8am (it was well below freezing out) we reached the dihedral. A little wide, a little loose but with a pay off at the third pitch. a Roof crack 200ft + off the deck! Ah yeah was all I could think. From the ground it was tough to know what size gear to bring so I had my big gear with me. Double cams up to 6 inches and sets of four from 1 inch to 3 inch sizes. I felt that I would be ready for anything on this route.

The view from the belay at the top of pitch one. I knocked off some loose blocks and had Ben get out of the way. The roof above turns into 6 inch wide crack and then tapers to fists after some off width moves. Such great fun and on sighting this route on a sunny December day. The temp rose to 40 degrees and we were in t-shirts at times cause the way that the heat radiated off the wall.

Ben all ready to go even though he was feeling the effects of the night before. Props for being on time and psyched for the unknown. I gave him a drill and other gear to carry to the climb and he took care of things without any complaints.

Ben coming up to the base of the third pitch. You can see that my CAMP rope bag was getting destroyed on this day. The rocks that were trundled from the route were nailing that thing like target practise. Oh well all in the name of a new route. Each belay is on a ledge and has two bomber half inch bolts set up for rappelling. All you need for this one is one rope. But you can use two ropes and get down from this belay with a double rope rap.

Ben coming up the 6 inch wide section. He chose the sport climbers way, lie backing. I had to enjoy the awkward jams of offwidthing to make me feel secure.

Ah yeah! At the belay of the base of what we came for.

When Ben joined me he found this on my shoulder. If you look closely its a scorpion. Needless to say I was a bit nervous. When you toss loose blocks off an unclimbed desert wall you are bound to disturb the insects and things. Well, I did.

Me giving the roof an onsight attempt. I thought that it was going to be wider from the base but it turned out to be half inch to .75 inch cams. I didn't have enough to protect the whole route so I had to have some shady placements. I also blew the onsight because I got all tired and messed up what would become a very tricky sequence.

Ah, roof crack love!

Getting lowered after placing the anchor at the top of the pitch. The rope coming from the camera was used to pull me back into the belay. Notice the snow on the ground!

Ben was able to unlock a part of the sequence that I missed. crazy moves that are upside down!

Enjoying the late afternoon sun and an awesome adventure! Not sure of the name yet and not sure of the grade. I gave it 3 lead attempts and as the sun was setting blew off the wall near the top of the pitch. Maybe with a little more rest I would have pulled it off but I was just plain tired from all the excitement, bolting and cleaning of the climb. I think that it is in the 5.12+ range and I am sure that I will fire the pitch the next time that I attempt it. Thanks to Ben for coming out and being a great partner on this wild ride. The route is clean and safe (with a PG rating for sure) with two pitches of 5.10 climbing to reach the 5.12+ crux and last pitch. Thanks to Sterling for the ropes and anchor webbing and CAMP for the great biners and draws, ArcTeryx for the perfect clothing and harness, SCARPA for the best climbing shoes around and Wind-Xtreme for the warm neck gator that graces my neck all fall winter and spring!
Get outside and have adventure of your own.
piz : )

The Coming Sunday Adventure

2011-12-09T07:47:00.000-07:00

Going to head out with Ben and try a cool looking 3 pitch thing near the Monument this weekend. It s giant dihedral with a variety of cracks, blocks, offwidth and a massive horizontal roof at the top.
Going to bring the warm arcteryx clothes and my tough sterling ropes to assure a safe run up the uncharted stone. As usual with climbing on the Utah/Colorado desert sandstone I expect garbage rock (we know its not the New River Gorge stone which is perfection) anyway, we will be putting on the helmets and giving it a go.
Get out and have your own adventure and then come and read about mine!

piz : )

The Monument on a Cold Day

2011-12-04T17:02:00.000-07:00

A 25 degree day requires a good tough partner. Mike B and I braved the below freezing temps to get in tons of routes!

This is how I dressed most of the day. Arcteryx gear and a Wind-Xtreme aroound my neck.

Mike on just another splitter.

finger cracks cause me to loose skin on the left hand.

and on the right hand. i will have to heal up before i send the thin crack route. tight fingers the whole way with no feet makes my skin fall off!
Get outside and have fun!
piz : )

My Boy and Me

2011-12-04T16:56:00.000-07:00

Rowan punching the monkey

Rowan and I on a cold days hike!

piz : )

Escalante Canyon

2011-12-04T16:54:00.000-07:00

jesse checking out some big horns in escalantes canyon.

izzy is the real king of the climb!

taking the first steps on another splitter

overhanging four inch crack anyone! this was a sweet line that really packed a wonderful punch at the top!

yours truly backing in the 40 degree temps!

jesse heading to the anchor on another beautiful splitter

blait taking on the S crack, what a beauty.

Get outside and have fun
there are no days where it is too cold
piz : )

Shoot

2011-11-24T11:16:00.000-07:00

Nelson checking out our baby.

While out making the video Jane took it upon herself to add some flare to our kitchen! Nice!!

Nelson and Dan G at the gym setting up the shot.

The boys prepping at Mothers Buttress in Unaweep Canyon.

Will they ever be ready?

Can't forget the boom.

I still had time to do some scouting too!

piz : )

Some Climbing at Table in Golden

2011-11-24T10:54:00.000-07:00

Sean giving a good belay.

Coach Dave taking down another lead. No boulders for him these days!

Obe

Mike Randy and Coach Dave

Mike and I smooching.

piz : )

Thanksgiving with the Peacocks!

2011-11-24T10:50:00.000-07:00

Rowan with the grandparent's Peacock!

A very happy grandma : )

Cousins butting heads.

A rest for Jane and I feeiding the boy.

Rowan hamming it up.

More Peacock's and Rowan's cousin Oliver. Rowan is lucky and gets to wear his old clothes : )

More Peacocks and red solo cups!

Me and Jane

The family.

Happy Thanksgiving

piz : )

Pee Wee Sends!

2011-11-02T09:09:00.000-06:00

Pee Wee just sent Necronomicon placing all the gear on an old roof crack project of mine.
He has given it a grade of 13d/14a cause as with all cracks the hand size will change the difficulty for all suitors.
Way to go Pee Wee for stepping up and getting psyched on this route and giving it the first free ascent in great style.
Check out http://www.climberism.com/jean-pierre-ouellet-aka-peewee-sends-necronomicon/
and Pee Wee's blog for more information.

piz : )

The British are Coming!

2011-10-24T11:29:00.002-06:00

Tom giving an off width a run with a good spot and Chris shooting some video.

Wide cracks are fun? Well for some folks. They are a great challenge and make you wear long pants and sleeves and even knee pads and elbox pads too!

Jesse getting ready for the roof crack of all roof cracks!

Brian helping Pee Wee zip up his jacket. Pee Wee is special.

Pee Wee instructing the Wideboyz how to make proper tape gloves.

The Widboyz and me. Thomas on the left and Pete on the right. Yeah they are little guys, but great climbers!

The crew coming the the roofs.

Tom doing some inversions

I invited some friends to climb at the roof crack area in Moab. My friend Jesse, Pee Wee and Brian joined me and the UK Wideboyz (Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker) their photgrapher Alex and their cameraman Chris Alstrin.
Their goal was to climb some more roof cracks, widestuff and have some fun. Here, Jess is belaying Pee Wee as he is going for the first free ascent of one of my longstanding projects, the Necronomicon.

Jesse taking in some roff crack boulder problems.

Tom learning the moves on another route of mine called Army of Darkness

Brain hanging around learning the moves on Army of Darkness.
piz : )

3 Hours of Fun After Work on Monday

2011-10-18T07:35:00.000-06:00

Jason Huston and I went on a mission after work this past monday. We decided on the Long Dong Route on Kissing Couple in the Colorado National Monument. Since neither of us knew how to approach the route and there wasnt much daylight left, we brought our headlamps and expected to epic. After driving around in the park for a while we decided that we found the way down to the route. We threw on our packs and tightened our helmets and ran down the sketchy cliffs and drop offs until we reached the short chimney that accesses the beginning of the climb. So far, so good. As Jason had been climbing on more vertical sandstone as of late, I wanted him to take the first pitch of the climb. It was a thin crack with face holds that seemed exciting to protect after last nights rain. With slippery feet, he climbed to the top of the first pitch using up almost all the gear that we brought. I enjoyed the top rope and took the next two pitches of chimney. Jason went up the next section that contained a variety of movements and we hung out in the "belfry" just a short distance from the summit of the Kissing Couple. I climbed through bird poo and reached the top safely before dark! What a great day. Jason and I laughed our way up and down the route an made it home before dark. I think that I could get into this. To more adventures with good friends!

Jason looking into the "Belfry" one pitch from the top.

Me referencing our topo in the "Belfry", thanks to the mountain project for the beta and great comments from past ascensionists!

Jason squeezing through the final move before the summit. Yes, he is crawling.

Topping out on the Kissing Couple.

Taking in the sunshine of Colorado National Monument. So glad that I live just a few minutes away! And loving my Tau Pullover from Arcteryx.

Of course the sun was in our eyes for this photo. The top of a desert tower is a sweet place to be!
piz : )

Fall

2011-10-12T09:25:00.001-06:00

That is what I have been doing whenever I get a chance to work on a route that I bolted a few weeks back in Unaweep. I am enjoying the process of crimping and lie backing and gastoning my way up the slightly overhanging route. As I link through the opening sequences and shake at the third bolt, I feel drained. After a quick shake I push into the next powerful and balancy sequence that forces a barn door move with tiny feet. After climbing to the stone on tiny side pulls, I move into the stem and STAB at poor under cling above. At that point I am exhausted from the stress of the moves below and significantly powered down. The next moves are total compression to something that I fear will never feel like a shake. Making the next clip begins a new strange and balancy sequence that requires me to crimp the tiniest if tinnies and lunge sideways for a hold. Compression and faith keep me on the rock. Soon I am resting on a sloper foot and another side pull. A crimp traverse and a powerful clip takes me to the final sequence. Lie backing under cling side pulls I gain the stance at the last move. Slopey slippery feet test my mettle as reach for a side pull that always feels too small. Hand jams and fists take me to the anchors and the fatigue sets in.
Oh to try it again and attempt to get a little bit higher before succumbing to the lack of power and finger strength.
The Unaweeper, as I am calling it will be a nice route to complete as I have learned to appreciate falling in that dark corridor one pitch off the deck that is lies hidden within.

Last moves to get to the jamming

Shaking out after the entry moves of the climb

Sticking the nasty little undercling.

Belaying the warm-up, Rowans Route. I do love my Arcteryx clothing!

ALL PHOTOS BY JESSE ZACHER
Get outside and have some fun.
piz : )