Selections include:

• Honey crisp
• Fireside
• Connell Red
• Harlson
• Regent
• Cortland
• and La Crescent

Stop in and get yours today!

spring accent. Lacy flowers cover the zig zag branches before foliage emerges. The deep green, heart shaped foliage fades to yellow for autumn.  A member of the Pea (Fabaceae) family, Redbud produces brown seedpods in the fall that persist into the winter.  It maintains a small stature, growing 20-30 feet and reaching 20-25 with a neat vase shape.

The MN Strain Redbud was selected for its hardiness at the University of Minnesota in 1992. It is a zone 4-9 cold hardy selection of Eastern Redbud, a native to the Eastern and Midwestern United States. In its youth, Redbud is a rapid grower and becomes a medium grower as it matures. It thrives in full sun to partial shade.  With its compact size and shape, brilliant spring blooms, and distinctive branching, MN Redbud is an excellent addition to the landscape.

Judy Visits TPIE

Wow!  I just got back from the countries’ premier tropical plant expo.   Imagine hundreds of plant growers filling the convention center with their best.  An indoor tropical forest indeed!  I spent a day touring some great orchid, and foliage growers and filled a truck with some beautiful and unusual plants.  On Monday, orchids, bonsai, cacti, jasmine bromalads and so much more will be arriving.  Come see us soon for the best selection!

I visited R&F Orchids. Check out this video of great beauty.

Christmas at Rockwood Gardens

Beautiful greenery and colorful poinsettia have been arriving at the garden center.  We have samples of winter outdoor containers that we can make for you or we have all the supplies to make your own.  We have have hand picked, beautifully shaped, christmas trees,wreaths, spruce tops, garland and evergreen boughs for your decorating.

Dinah, our florist can design a special holiday center piece for your home or for a special hostess gift . Our poinsettia are full and fresh and if you mention this post we will give you a 20% discount on them.  We also have a large selection of one of a kind gifts. We all wish you a very special holiday season and if there is anything we can help you with don’t hesitate to call.

- Judy Rockwood

Authors: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech; and S.B. Sterrett, Associate Professor, Horticulture, Virginia Tech

Publication Number 426-420, posted August 2000

Propagation

Annual herbs are best started from seed. When starting small seeds indoors, the easiest method is to sow them directly into individual pots filled with seed-starting mix, about six weeks before the last frost date. Cover seed with a thin layer of moist seed-starting mix or milled sphagnum moss. Later, thin the seedlings to four or five per pot. Larger seeds may also be started by this method, then thinned to one plant per pot. Keep the soil surface moist by misting until the plants are established.

Although many perennial varieties may be started from seed, it is often easier to get plants from your local nursery or a reputable mail-order company. In addition, many culinary herbs, such as tarragon, can only be propagated asexually; seed-grown plants lack the oils that give them flavor. Propagate them from root divisions or cuttings taken in the summer, after new growth has hardened. Root cuttings in a window box or some other suitable container, preferably covered with plastic to maintain high humidity. About 5 inches of clean, coarse sand is a good rooting medium. Keep the sand moist and out of direct sunlight when the plants are young. In four to six weeks, move the plants to pots or cold frames for the winter. Transplant all herb plants after danger of severe frost. Control weeds during the growing season to prevent competition for water and nutrients which are needed by your herbs. A light mulch (about one inch) will conserve soil moisture and help control weeds.

Most of the herbs that have a mature height under 12 inches may be grown in 6-inch pots as indoor plants. There are many dwarf varieties of the larger herbs that would be appropriate indoors, as well. Basil åSpicy Globe,’ dwarf sage, winter savory, parsley, chives, and varieties of oregano and thyme are some of the best for windowsill culture. When given proper care in a sunny window, they will supply sprigs for culinary use through all seasons. When cooking, use greater quantities of fresh herbs; although they often have better flavor than dried herbs, they are usually not as strong.

Culture

Although many herbs are considered drought-tolerant, some moisture is needed to maintain active growth. For a continual supply of fresh-cut herbs, periodic irrigation during dry periods is needed. As with all plants, a thorough watering with a period of drying is preferred over frequent sprinkling. Annual herbs require a higher level of available soil moisture than most perennial herbs.

Proper nutrient balance is very important. Weak, succulent growth can be caused by over-fertilization, making the plant susceptible to disease and insect pests. Rapid growth also dilutes the concentration of essential oils that impart the distinctive flavor to the culinary herb. Inadequate fertilizer can severely limit new growth, predisposes the plant to insect and disease problems, and increases the susceptibility of tender perennials to winter injury. A light application of fertilizer to perennials in early spring should promote new root and shoot growth and ensure vigor in the new growing season. Generally, adequate herb growth can be achieved with 1/4 to 1/2 the nitrogen recommended for vegetables in your area. Sequential harvests of annual herbs will be facilitated by light applications of fertilizer after each heavy harvest.

The high concentration of essential oils in healthy, actively growing herbs repels most insects. However, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids seem to be more prevalent in crowded conditions with rapidly growing, succulent plants. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions and can be controlled by spraying the plants with plain water at regular intervals, especially during periods of drought. Since there are very few labeled pesticides for use on herbs, the best defense against pests is preventative cultural management, such as good sanitation, removal of weak or infested growth, and regular pruning.

Periodic, judicious pruning promotes vigorous, sturdy plants that are less susceptible to disease and winter injury. If they are allowed to grow unchecked, some herbs will take on a gangly, unkempt appearance. If you are lavish in your use of herbs, regular harvesting for use in cooking, potpourri, and flower arrangements should keep your herbs sufficiently pruned.

Harvesting

It is best to harvest your herbs in the morning, just after the dew has dried, but before the sun gets hot. The concentration of essential oils is highest at this point. Harvest your herbs for fresh use all season, but for drying, cut just before the plants bloom. This will ensure the maximum concentration of essential oils. When harvesting, cut just above the first joint of tender growth – it takes the plant longer to send out new shoots from woody growth.

Stop making large harvests of the perennial herbs in late summer or fall. This will allow time for new growth to harden and gather carbohydrates in preparation for winter. However, small harvests can be made during most of the fall. Sage flavor may actually be improved by two or three frosts prior to harvest.

If you are interested in saving seed for the next season, choose one or two plants of each variety and allow them to bloom and go to seed. Harvest the seed heads when they change from green to brown or gray, and dry them thoroughly to ensure a good germination rate.

Drying

The best dried herbs are those that have been dried rapidly, but without excessive heat or exposure to sunlight.

When harvesting to dry, it is often necessary to spray the plants with a garden hose the day before cutting to clean dirt and dust off the leaves. The next morning, after the leaves have dried, make your harvest. Remove dead or damaged leaves and make small bunches of the herbs. Tie the stems together and hang them in a temperate, well-ventilated, darkened room that has little dust. Label each bunch, since several of the herbs look similar when dried.

Herbs may also be dried by removing the leaves and spreading them in a single layer on cookie sheets or foil, though it is preferable to use trays made of window screening for maximum air circulation. Again, remember to label the different varieties for accurate identification after drying.

Herb leaves are dry if they crumble into powder when rubbed between your hands. When the drying process seems to be complete, fill a small, glass container with the herb and seal. Put it into a hot oven for about 15 minutes or microwave it (don’t use a metal cover!) for about 5 minutes, then check for condensation on the inside of the jar. If there is moisture present, let the rest of the herbs dry some more; if your harvest is not completely dry when stored, it may succumb to molds. If necessary, herbs may be dried on cookie sheets in an oven set for 110°F or less, though there is some loss of essential oils using this method.

When completely dry, store whole leaves in air-tight containers, preferably of dark glass or some material that will not let in light, in a cool to temperate place out of direct sunlight. This will ensure good flavor and color in your seasonings. To conserve essential oils, do not crush the herb until you add it to your cooking.