RRR

New Boulder Problems In Eldorado: Gems Keep Coming

Peter N. Jones — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:26:00 +0000

New Boulder Problems In Eldorado: Gems Keep Coming

A couple weeks ago Tara and I did some exploring in Eldorado to see if we couldn't find some new boulders. I've found a couple over the years, and each time we go out hunting, it seems like another Eldo "classic" appears. Well, on this occasion, just like on our recent exploration trip in Boulder Canyon, we found some lines we really wanted to try. So on Saturday we hauled our stuff all the way up to have a go. Dirty, steep, and full of potential is how they turned out.

Coming out the roof...

The roof on the mega-boulder has several lines and variations coming out of it. Each seems to hover around V7-V9 on the grade scale. But don't let that stop you, there are plenty more to be had up in the cave/pit further up the hill.

Steep moves on solid stone...

The Cave Pit is one of those crazy holes in-between giant boulders (similar to the problem found above Firedance V10). In this case, sandstone. We put up a couple lines, more can be done but some serious cleaning needs to be done. The real project is not pictured, but follows a clean seam up a 20 foot face. Really, a true Eldo "classic". Lots more around. These we found last year, and still need to be sent.

Working up and out of the cave pit...

Get your Eldo pass, looks to be an exciting winter!

Hard project in the cave pit...

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The Nursing Home: Where The Monkey Sleeps Is No Freaking Accident

Peter N. Jones — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 05:49:00 +0000

The Nursing Home: Where The Monkey Sleeps Is No Freaking Accident

Boulder Canyon is blessed with a wide array of quality boulder problems and areas. One such area is the Nursing Home, located just above the Barrio and Nip and Tuck crag. I've been bouldering here since '96, and for good reason - the spot offers a wide variety of super fun problems for all levels.

Tara on one of the fun warmups...

Mostly know for one problem - Where the Monkey Sleeps V10/11 - and the short traverse into it - Freak Accident V12, the Nursing Home is really much more. There are at least a handful of quality problems on the wall in the V4-V7ish range (depending on what is on), and the ability to make up variations abounds.

Sending a fun V5...

However, what really needs to still be done is the entire Nursing Home traverse, from the very far right all the way across the wall and into Where the Monkey Sleeps. This would really be a major problem. We went up there a couple times this week to work this project, and I can say the movement is really very good. I was successful in linking the traverse into two sections: the first part, until there is a minor crux right before the halfway point, and the second part, which is the third move of Freak Accident. I was staying low, below the "lip" for the entire traverse. Perhaps when it is sent, the individual will name it: Where the Monkey Sleeps is No Freaking Accident... or something.

Where the Monkey Sleeps V10/11

{mosmap lat='39.985892'|lon='-105.441864'|text='The Nursing Home: Boulder Canyon'}

New Boulders And Problems: Boulder Canyon And Bear Canyon

Peter N. Jones — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 03:22:00 +0000

New Boulders And Problems: Boulder Canyon And Bear Canyon

Over the last week or so Tara and I have been doing a little exploring, looking for new boulders and problems to keep us busy this fall and winter. Often when one goes exploring, they come up empty handed. This is usually not a problem, as exploring entails spending your time in a new place looking for what could be. Sometimes, however, you do find a new bouldering problem, area, or location. In these cases, all of your efforts (the bushwhacking, scrambling, cleaning, etc.) pays off, and the reward proves to be well worth it.

A hard V9ish problem in Bear Canyon...

Such was the case with us and our most recent explorations. Bear Canyon, located in the Flatirons of Boulder Mountain Parks & Open Space, is home to a plethora of boulders. A few have been done with classic lines right off the trail. Others have been developed, only to fade into obscurity. I've been bouldering up in Bear Canyon for a number of years, and have always found the effort of hiking in well worth the trip. The potential for new problems exists, and on each trip Tara and I have found a new gem or two. There are plenty more problems to be sent for the willing hiker...

Slopey aretes anyone? Bear Canyon projects...

Boulder Canyon is another area that has seen a lot of recent development in terms of bouldering. Because the canyon is home to granite rock, unlike the Flatirons (which is sandstone), the canyon seems to have seen a lot more development and exploration then other areas which still hold potential. Likewise, because of the easy access Boulder Canyon bouldering has really taken off recently.

New V6ish in Boulder Canyon...

We found a series of new boulders the other day when we were exploring some potential spots near the top of the canyon. These blocks are in a cluster, and currently hold around 15 lines ranging from V1 to V9. A couple harder lines exist, and many other fun variations can still be put together. These photos are only a smattering...

V6/7 variation...

It just goes to show, in one of the most heavily climbed locations in the country, new problems are still to be had. So keep exploring, it will be well worth the effort for all involved in the sport.

A very hard variation/problem still waiting to be sent...

Tara on the scary V9...

Such a cool problem... and with an amazing view too!

A fun V4 further up the hill...

{mosmap lat='39.977449'|lon='-105.459738'|text='The location of the new Boulder Canyon boulders...'}

Running Kingston Peak From Tolland: One More Early Winter Peak Run

Peter N. Jones — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 02:37:00 +0000

Running Kingston Peak From Tolland: One More Early Winter Peak Run

Well, I thought the mountain running season was over. After slogging up Mount Audubon previously through several inches (and feet in spots) of snow, I figured the season had come to a close. However, itching to get one more high alpine run in, Tara and I decided to give the Kingston Peak run a try. Often one of our go-to early season runs, the Kingston Peak (12,133 feet) run from Tolland is also often very good late into the winter, as most of the snow gets blown off the 4x4 road from the winds howling down James Peak's east face.

Tara starting up the Tolland road to Kingston Peak... cold and windy.

This run is a serious mountain run, and will bust the legs and lungs of any seasoned mountain runner. With little or no warm-up, a serious climb at the beginning (1,200 feet in about 2 miles; going from 9,000 feet to 10,200 feet), and some excellent rolling terrain above 10,200 feet running Kingston Peak is always a challenge.

Stay on FR 353 the entire time; other branches lead to other loops...

The conditions look just perfect...

Don't let the fact that this is a 4x4 road dissuade you either; there is little to no traffic on the road, and after the junction to the old mining town of Apex, I have never encountered another person. For a high-altitude run within a 30 minute drive from town, you can't beat this one.

The junction to Apex: stay right for Kingston, left for rolling open running...

There are also a lot of really good variations and loops on the numerous branch roads, allowing for one to get in a lot of miles above 10,000. No where else can you get in the number of miles at this altitude along the Front Range between RMNP and I-70. The photos here are from the run we did on October 22. Obviously, an early winter storm was rolling in that day, and there was some snow accumulation on the road. However, despite the constant 20 mph winds and blowing snow, it turned into another amazing day in the mountains. Under these conditions I did the run in 2 hours, 43 minutes from car-to-car.

Grizzled, wind blown trees...

The numbers for those who care....

Beginning Elevation: 9,000 feet

High Point: 12,133 feet

Total climbing and descending: ~ 6,266 feet

Mileage: ~12 miles

Other People Factor: minimum in high season; zero in low season (June, September, October).

Time: 2-4 hours depending on how often you stop to enjoy the views...

At the top in the chaos of the storm... (I think there is a Buddhist practice that puts you in the same state of mind)

{mosmap lat='39.90414'|lon='-105.592003'|text='Tolland: Park right at the junctions (enough space for a couple cars) and head up the road...'}

Frontrange Fools: Another Season Begins - Telemark Freeheel Video

Peter N. Jones — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:49:00 +0000

Frontrange Fools: Another Season Begins - Telemark Freeheel Video

Well, another season of winter fun is almost here, and to get us psyched for the drive Tara and I put together this little video. Filmed on opening day (October 9th) at A-Basin, the video makes fun of us Frontrangers and our "commute" to the mountains. Oh, and there is some telemark freeheel clips in there as well...

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Eldorado Highball Bouldering: Working To Get The Head In The Game

Peter N. Jones — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 03:41:00 +0000

Eldorado Highball Bouldering: Working To Get The Head In The Game

Deep in the heart of Eldorado Canyon lies a secluded house-sized boulder. Known as the Eldorado Boulder, this gem is just down from the classic boulder problems of Lost, Infinite/Elegant, The Elegant Universe and others, and boasts two really fun highball boulder problems. In fact, they are so highball that both have bolts and anchors for working them.

Pulling the two finger pocket...

We hiked up to try and see how they would go, and were pleasantly surprised with them. I have no idea on names or grade, nor on who bolted them or how many times they have been done (with or without ropes). The main line on the west face of the boulder is great, and after a few tries working the moves and final sequence, the line was sent (all photos from the toprope "working" session). I'm guessing it goes at around V9, but with the height an entire grade higher may be deserved. We didn't have the guts to send the thing without a rope; that would require a lot of pads and some serious balls as the final move to the lip is the crux. Kudos to anyone that is willing to - or has - boulder(ed) this route out...

After the pocket, a good ledge to match on for the next move...

The problem/route on the other side looks even better, and we are excited about hiking back to work on it. Sadly, we couldn't this day as the line was snaked...

Matching on the ledge; next move is a big reach to a good seam...

Hitting the seam; now to move left...

A good rest here, then the final lock-off to the lip...

My funky lock-off position...

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Running Mount Audubon: Full Winter Conditions In Colorado's Indian Peaks

Peter N. Jones — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 04:35:00 +0000

Running Mount Audubon: Full Winter Conditions In Colorado's Indian Peaks

Last week Tara and I headed out for one final mountain trail run of the season (after the successful run of South Arapahoe). We have had a particularly wet and cool fall this year, resulting in a substantial amount of snow up high early in the season. Usually one can continue to run peaks in Colorado well into October (and even later in some years). Well, not this year.

The beginning of the trail, conditions not looking good...

When we got to the trailhead, it was apparent that this would be a "full winter conditions" run up Mount Audubon. Although we ran it on October 1, the conditions were similar to those often found in mid-February. The snow started right away, and although some spots were wind blown, there was ankle-deep snow from the get go. However, we figured we would give it a try... good thing, as we made it to the top after breaking trail the entire way.

The Beaver Reservoir trail junction; the wind has blown much of the snow off...

In the summer, this is an excellent mountain run, and it is possible to really test one's climbing limits on the Mount Audubon run. With a clear, well maintained trail this is a local favorite. Often crowded in the summer, the fall proves to be the best time as the numbers radically drop off during September. The goal is to try and make it to the top in under an hour - difficult but not impossible. Under the "winter" conditions, we made the run in 3 hours and 14 minutes from car-to-car.

The broad east slope of Mount Audubon; snow and wind...

The numbers for those who care....

Beginning Elevation: 10,400 feet

High Point: 13,223 feet

Total climbing and descending: ~ 5,646 feet

Mileage: ~7.8 miles

Other People Factor: maximum in high season; minimal in low season (June, September, October).

Time: 3-4 hours depending on how often you stop to enjoy the views...

Deep winter snow conditions for running...

Finally at the top... Apparently running through snow makes one a little goofy...

Views to the north; snow filling in pretty good...

{mosmap lat='40.08326'|lon='-105.581145'|text='The Mount Audubon trailhead: Mitchell Lake parking lot in the Brainard Lake Recreation Area'}

Over Easy Egg: Slap Happy V9 At The Lions Den

Peter N. Jones — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 03:45:00 +0000

Over Easy Egg: Slap Happy V9 At The Lions Den

The Lion's Den is a small granite bouldering area just above Longmont Reservoir, outside of Lions. Although not extensive, the place offers some fun bouldering in the moderate grades, beautiful views, and a variety of crimps and open hands. Some of the stone tends to be a little chossy, but most of the loose stuff has been cleaned and things are solid. One problem, what I am calling the Over Easy Egg, that is worthy of any boulderer's effort can be found on the Egg boulder. It is a combo of The Egg (given V7 but an easy sandbag) and Over Easy (another sandbag at V8), and is really an open handed challenge.

Slap your way to the top...

Perfect for winter, this problem and the various open-handed problems on the outlying blocks make the Lion's Den worthy of a visit. Happy slapping...

Open-hand granite bouldering at its best... hand shredder anyone?

{mosmap lat='40.225704'|lon='-105.346758'|text='The Lion's Den'}

Mountain Running South Arapahoe Peak

Peter N. Jones — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 03:58:00 +0000

Mountain Running South Arapahoe Peak

The alpine running season is sadly coming to a close as the snows begin to fall and accumulate. This is always a bitter-sweet time of year, as one fondly looks back on their summer of mountain runs while simultaneously looking forward to the potential telemark/freeheel season. To see how things are progressing, Tara and I went up and ran South Arapahoe Peak (13,397 feet).

The beginning singletrack of South Arapahoe...

Running South Arapahoe is a quick, fun mountain run that requires a fair amount of up-hill climbing. With little or no break, runners generally prefer to do Arapahoe/Caribou Pass when running out of the 4th of July trailhead. This alternative run is also excellent, and I often do it (see run report here for this June). However, because this trailhead is close to Boulder, it often is very crowded. Therefore, we often don't run these trails and mountains except for early and late in the season when traffic drops off considerably.

The first junction; stay right for Arapahoe Pass and S. Arapahoe Peak

To run South Arapahoe Peak, simply drive up the 4th of July road (regular cars can drive up just fine) all the way pass the Hessie trailhead (used for the High Lonesome run and the Diamond Lake Cutoff run), to the end. From here, one simply runs ~3.5 miles straight up, gaining around 3,197 feet in elevation. After the first 1.5 miles you reach the actual 4th of July Mine and the junction for the Peak.

Almost to the second junction, looking at Mount Neva...

Turn right (going left takes you to Neva, Arapahoe Pass, and beyond), crossing through a small willow section, as you then begin to switch back up the broad south slopes of South Arapahoe. Continue up the switchbacks until cresting onto the broad slope that takes you to the Arapahoe Glacier overlook. From here, it is a couple hundred feet up to the summit. If you have time, skirt over to North Arapahoe via the ridge (class 3/4).

The second junction; right goes to the Peak, left goes to the Pass...

These photos are from September 30, and as you can see the trail is about 50% covered in snow. Still doable, although one has to allot a little more time. We did it in 3 hours and 12 minutes from car-to-car under these conditions.

The numbers for those who care....

Beginning Elevation: 10,200 feet

High Point: 13,397 feet

Total climbing and descending: ~ 6,394 feet

Mileage: ~7 miles

Other People Factor: maximum in high season; minimal in low season (June, September, October).

Time: 3-4 hours depending on how often you stop to enjoy the views...

The snow starts to pick up...

Looking up to the Overlook and the final climb to the summit...

Finally on the summit, snow filling in...

Looking down the final climb from the summit...

Plenty of postholing...

Tara running down after a succesful ascent...

No flowers, but skeletons...

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Green Mountain Adventure Bouldering: New And Old Problems In Boulder's Flatirons

Peter N. Jones — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 03:23:00 +0000

Green Mountain Adventure Bouldering: New And Old Problems In Boulder's Flatirons

The Flatirons of Boulder are home to thousands of boulder problems. With the well-known classic areas such as Flagstaff, the Satellite Boulders, the Terrain Boulders, the PBs, and the numerous secluded spots, the Flatirons of Boulder Mountain Parks are blessed with a plethora of climbing problems. Another area, often overlooked by today's boulderer, is the stuff up at Green Mountain.

Tara cranking on one of the walls...

Closed for half the year to protect raptors and other nesting birds, the cliffs and boulders on Green Mountain offer the intrepid boulderer all types of problems: highballs, steep overhanging faces, thin crimp fests, jugs, pockets, and more. Despite the fact that the area has been known about for well over 15 years, and holds a couple hundred problems, there are still plenty to be found and done.

An evil arete problem...

As the raptor closure is now over, Tara and I have been hiking up there checking out some old projects and finding new gems. Most problems are sharp, as they have seen little to no traffic and retain much of their granular nature (classic sandstone here).

Moving up the arete; the angles are all wrong...

Whether any of these have ever been done is beside the point; that is not why one goes to Green Mountain. Rather, the feeling of adventure still abounds up on Green. Stumbling around the cliffs and through the thick growth looking for a new/old line, a steep face, or for the next great wall are what bouldering up on Green is all about. With clear views of the Continental Divide, bouldering on Green is perhaps one of the best climbing options around the Boulder area. And don't worry, there are tons of undone, very hard problems to still be sent. So head on out there this winter and do some adventure bouldering. If you apply a little creativity, I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Just do it before it closes again for the season on February 1.

Looking towards the finish...

One final move...

The flying saucer...

Steep thin edges... perfect!

Working the 20+ foot seam...

{mosmap lat='39.979447'|lon='-105.301149'|text='Green Mountain: Tons of excellent bouldering.'}