Rolex Passion Report

Learn to know the value of your vintage Rolex!

Philipp — Sun, 14 Jan 2024 08:50:29 +0000

Learn to know the value of your vintage Rolex. What is the price of your vintage Rolex in current market?

One of the most asked question I get every day is, what is my vintage Rolex worth or what is the price of my watch? As this issue has been discussed in depth on every specialist Rolex forum since many years, I’m not trying with this report to undermine the conclusions but merely want to add more information about how to determine the value of your vintage Rolex. How do I find out what my Rolex is worth? And then, what’s the best way to sell it?

The most common thing to do to come to a correct pricing is by comparing the watches properly. If you want to compare, you first need to know exactly what you have so you can check it precisely with other examples known in the market. My previously written „Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide” will help you to determine the originality of your watch. Almost everything from the past Rolex collection is nowadays worth buying once it still has all original parts as when it was delivered by Rolex and the case has not been heavily polished. The original form of glossy and matt finished case parts, the sharp edges and screw thread need to be unharmed to be labeled as potential collectable.

Once your vintage Rolex has swapped parts, even with later original Rolex parts, the collect-ability goes down rapidly. Off course if it’s for the bezel insert only, you still can find period correct ones offered in the market to swap it back to original. But it is much harder and more expensive to find a correct dial that has been changed by worldwide Rolex dealers during one of the many services to bring back the waterproofness and durability of your Rolex, .

What I often see when people send me pictures of their Rolex is that the hands, crown and crystal have been changed. The changed hands are immediately visible by the non matching luminous of dial and hands. Below clearly visible the non matching handset with the luminous on the dial, the tone is of the hands are almost greenish whilst the dial is more yellowish. Besides that, the 24 hour hand is not mounted correctly. This should immediately ring your alarm bells telling you something unoriginal has happened, somebody has restored it incorrectly…

During services Rolex cleaned the movement, pressure tested the case and changed the gaskets and often changed also the hands so these become luminous again. After 1964 radium ones where forbidden and later tritium ones lost their luminance in 15 years. Therefore, before you start comparing your Rolex with others, it’s very useful that you check closely if all the parts are original. Within collecting Rolex there are hardly any steady rules. There are always exceptions one will find out when you dive deeper into the world of vintage Rolex. But let’s start with the most common basics by checking out the main information you need to gather when you start analyzing your Rolex.

The reference number or Rolex model.

The reference number is mostly engraved between the lugs at 12 o’clock. During the years the number changed from 3 to 4 digit in the 30’s, from 4 to 5 digit in mid 80’s and recently from 5 to 6 digits for the newest models. With some early 30-40’s models you see that the reference is added on the case back. If you know the reference you know what model it is. As most Rolex models have holes in the case where the push pin is holding the bracelet tight to the case, by using a small pin, it’s easy to remove the bracelet and write down the serial and reference number of your Rolex. At the end of this report I will summarize the most used Rolex reference numbers for you.

– Above, the serial number is clearly visible once you remove the bracelet, you see this Daytona is a reference 6264

– Below, the serial number from a Sea Dweller reference 1665 up close

The serial number or production number.

As Rolex was a clever company and due to the fact that many Rolex models were produced over the years, the system they used from the beginning by labeling the serial number to a production date was really great. You locate the serial number between the lugs on the opposite of the reference number, at 6 o’clock. From the beginning of the production till 1 million serial examples produced up till 1954, Rolex started over again at 1 to come to 1 million again in 1964. Then in 1986 they reached almost ten million (9.999.999 examples) and started using a character to define the year of production. With some early 30-40’s models you see the serial number was added on the case back. At the end of this report I will summarize a list of the Rolex serial numbers and their dates of production for you.

– Above the serial number is also visible now ( last 3 digits are covered ) making this a 2.731.xxx, which is 1971

– Below the serial number up close, 5.286.xxx making it from 1977.

Now you know which model you have and from what year it is, this is already important information to determine the approximate value your Rolex. Next you should find out if your Rolex is still all original or if it has non original parts / later service parts. It takes years of practice to learn to compare vintage Rolex in detail but despite this I will try to help you in the right direction.

As your reference number tells you which model you have you now start comparing your Rolex with one from my „reference” list below. Your focus should be on the typo used on the dial, the exact form of the Rolex coronet and if present, the bezel typography. Search for similarities but again, this needs to be done precisely. For your information, the indication „Swiss” or T SWISS T or SWISS T<25 at 6 o’clock indicated there was use of luminous on the dial. The first „swiss” only was in use before 1964 and means the dial is containing radium luminous. This changed in the 1964 to Tritium with the T SWISS T or SWISS T<25 markings.

Early SWISS markings at 6 o’clock telling us the luminous that was used is radium.

The from 1964 introduced tritium stamp at 6 o’clock: “SWISS – T<25” print…

Up close the “SWISS – T <25” print at 6 o’clock..

So many Rolex dials of so many different models but then, once you start studying them, you’ll find out more differences for the same type of dial are being made. Below Black Oyster Daytona dial all look the same but in detail there are small differences. This could be the font used, serif or non serif. The placing on the dial is not always consistent but divers per model. The cliche used for every batch / model is often been changed after it got old and tired, depending on the popularity of the model we see many changes in detail. Find below a comparison between ref. 6240 Daytona and later ref. 6263/6265, it’s very hard to see but indeed the right text has become a very small serif text…..

Here are some general advises for checking out the originality of your vintage Rolex:

First look at the Rolex coronet in detail. Every Rolex reference has it’s own coronet. Learn them to compare!

Secondly you look very very closely at the rest of the Rolex print on the dial, do this carefully. To make it even more difficult and make you understand what to watch for, here’s a link to an RPR article about Fake vintage Rolex dials I warn collectors for!

Then using simple techniques as a Geiger meter to see if there’s any radiation left on a Pre 1963 Rolex is very handy

If possible to open, the case back inside is giving you some extra info about the reference and in pre 1972 also the date stamp.

In some cases, you also see the watch maker marks, below in the middle to the right are the inscriptions made by the watchmaker who serviced it, if these start with GE you know Geneva has officially serviced it but in almost all cases are the marks not giving you any more info maybe except a date as every watchmakers uses his own system. Nevertheless ones you see these service marks in the inside of the case back, the chance is considerably that besides a movement clean, the hands, crystal and crown have been swapped as this was almost done automatically with every serviced watch. Rolex wants to deliver their watches back being waterproof.

So below the reference number is 6538 for Rolex Submariner Big Crown produced between 1956-1959, then below you see I.56, which means it left production at first quarter 1956 and all the way down you see a stamp that has shortly been used around 1956, the 18 which stands for the (high) quality of steel that has been used.

Then please use “John Goldberger’s 100 superlative Rolex App” for any comparison between your Rolex and one that is still in all original detail. Investing less then $25,= you get tons of precious information you can use to compare your Rolex after you found out the most import an basic information I described above. Follow this link to the AppStore to download it on your device or if you prefer visit Goldberger’s website to acquire the book.

You have a great overview of all models by reference, you see all case backs, movements and dials. There’s no better source!!!

Very important information about the serial number and movement numbers are published for you to compare!

Last but not least, check my –> “Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide” again with the new information you obtained and double check all details mentioned in my report to come to a final conclusion about the originality and condition of your vintage Rolex….

Now you have an idea of which Rolex model you have, from what period it’s made and if it’s still in original condition (or at least parts of it ) you might want to check out the value by searching the sales results of the mayor auction houses which specialize in offering vintage Rolex. Every specialized auction house has it’s own database of achieved results. Find below a direct link to each of these databases where you can enter the info of your vintage Rolex to find out what a average sales price is in the market since last years.

Now we are talking about auction houses, let me just explain the basic rules of the vendor. Basically you as a buyer need to be sure that you want to bid on something that has your interest. Therefore the auction houses arrange viewing days prior the auction. During these viewing days you can examine the lots of your interest up close, ask a watchmaker to open the case back so you can see the movement, make remarks and do your own due diligence about what you want to pay for it.

The auction house provides you with information printed in their catalogue, additional info like copies from the papers, extract from the manufacture or service records. Once it’s auction day you can bid in all sorts of manners, for example actually bidding in the room, or by phone, by internet or by written bid. Once you’re the winner of a auctioned lot, you will have to pay a premium on top of the hammer price. That is the fee for the auction house which is in most cases about 25 % fee for hammer prices realized up to $ 100.000,=. Then 20 % fee for hammer prices realized from $ 100.000,= to 2 million and 12 % for hammer prices above 2 million. The seller who gave his Rolex to lets say Christie’s will get the hammer price minus 5-8 % costs.

The pro’s for selling by an auction house is logically that the hammer price gets up bid to a much higher number then the estimate was. Actually this doesn’t happen to often anymore because the experts of the auction house know exactly what a piece can bring, besides that they don’t want to ruin the expectations. An auction house earns money when they sell something successfully. If it fails to sell during the auction, then maybe it will be sold afterwards in private sale.

The con’s are the long time you have to wait before it get auctioned, the uncertainty if it sells and the total costs to use their service. Besides that it’s not at all certain that your vintage Rolex will be sold during auction. Sometimes by obvious reasons because the quality couldn’t meet the estimated price but also due to the fact that dealers are working together and not bidding at all so they can try to get it cheaper after the auction in private sale. Another more modern reason why a certain sale can work out negatively is the fact that we see on social media rumors been spread which could effects the sales price.

The other most used option is you offer it for sale at known or trusted dealers, those that have a reputation built up after dealing for many years in the market, have excellent feed back and references.

Once you gained enough information, you will know if the dealer is offering you a correct price. You could also discuss selling it by commission, so that the dealer get a fixed percentage of the sale and the buyer is wiring you the money directly. Pro’s of selling through a dealer is the fact that a deal is done quickly. You don’t need to wait as long as with the auction sale because they need to come up with a catalogue and in most cases travel around the world for previewing the sale to their clients.

Above Christie’s important watch auction in Geneva and below Phillips Auctioneers…

Back to “What is your vintage Rolex really worth now??”

It matters enormously where you ask a so called specialist for information about your vintage Rolex. If this is with your local jeweler or local auction house or if you do your effort to go to the big city and ask experts over there. The location is an important part of valuation. Logically those that handle the most watches are having the best inside information and are aware what is happening in the actual market. Asking for instance Christie’s in Sheffield will give you a different expert opinion then if you go to London, then the best experts are in Geneva, as the biggest auction sale is in Geneva. Luckily the experts are available by email so in most cases you when you don’t have an appointment with one, you need to take your time to get the best possible answer. Experience in this matter who to approach is handy but then when you go to the auction house website, they have their experts divided in categories, once you click on „watches” you will automatically see who to approach for a valuation. The same you can do by emailing me your questions or by picking one of the trusted RPM dealers….

Another option in finding the value of your Rolex is by using social media. Facebook and Instagram are modern tools that are extremely effective as with one click you’re in a group of collectors willing to give you the best possible advise. If this is on free forums like VRF (Vintage Rolex Forum) where you can login and ask you questions or the VRF Facebook group, quick and easy you will get an first impression when you load up a clear picture from the front. Instagram can be used also for expert opinions by tagging the experts you found out by google on the picture you show on you IG page. Here’s an earlier report of mine about the impact of Instagram. In most cases it already helps when you use # hashtags of the description of your Rolex. For example: #Submariner #1680 and add a question like: Can somebody help me find out the value of my vintage Rolex. By asking openly for an answer, in most cases you’ll be rewarded with helpful information. Collectors love to show off their gained knowledge so use them for your own benefit.

In the last couple of years the value of rare vintage Rolex has gone up rapidly. In the past people liked to invest in properties, stocks etc, but now we see many people that can afford to spend their extra money in art – collectables. If we look at the art indexes like below you will see that alternative investments are scoring a very high return on investment, if off course you buy with knowledge and from a trusted source. We see alternative art and collectors funds come up rapidly as lots of rich people want to profit from the popularity collectors markets have like classic cars, wine, jewelry and watches…

What does this mean for the value of your vintage Rolex? For example 2-3 years ago a Rolex Daytona with Paul Newman Ref 6241 dial sold for around € 50.000, whilst a regular Daytona sold for € 20.000,= as these models have been fashionable for many years. The current value of these Daytona’s has gone up to € 100-150.000 for the Paul Newman version and € 30-35.000,= for the regular Daytona. ( Get one thing clear here, that the difference between these 2 prices is only the dial, a dial which costs like € 50,= when the producer Singer made it end 60’s). Immediately the most important difference catches the eye, we see that iconic rare design went up in price more then the regular collection. People nowadays want what is special, been boosted on populaire blogs or comes into the news because a theme auction is giving them more awareness. In other words, those models that have been significant important for the grow of a brand, the 911 from Porsche, the Submariner & Daytona from Rolex are being picked up.

Back again to my initial question: „What is your vintage Rolex really worth now??”

As I tried to explain, we nowadays see that the market in rare collectables is moving fast. Many more dealers are active then for instance when I started organizing „The Rolex Passion Meeting” some 8 years ago. Besides more dealers, there are more customers in Asia, one of the biggest newcomers to the vintage Rolex market. Many new passionated collectors are rising in cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, Jakarta etc. Besides more volume we see at the same time that less high quality watches are being found farm fresh or coming from first owner in the market. Off course we have to realize that those Rolex models that have been produced in 1955-1965 are hardly found anymore. Due to the fact that a new generation has most logically inherited their father’s Rolex after some 50-60 years making it extremely rare a fresh find pops up…. Sometimes you’re lucky, like with this Submariner!

Besides the time factor a lot of more awareness and media has been published about collecting vintage watches and their up going value. Once a vintage Rolex was sold for more then 1 million and covered the Financial Times makes the possibility of finding another one almost impossible, although the same watch didn’t sell in the open market for €250.000,= some months before. In other words, the moment of selling is very important. I hear many serious collectors complain that there hardly is anything around what they can add to their collection nowadays. Indeed, the frequency that important new finds get for sale in the open market is much less then 5 years ago. Nowadays these ‘grail’ examples get sold immediately to the right person who is missing it the most in his collection. If this is through a dealer or through the private sale of the auction house, everybody knows everybody and eventually it will end up with that particular collector who pays the most.

a Million dollar baby, the RCO – alias “Rolex Cosmograph Oyster” Daytona

A rare Albino Daytona ( recently sold for 1.3 million SFR ) on the left and a tropical RCO on the right, both from 1 collector!

Coming back to the main question, what is your vintage Rolex really worth now, we have to make yet another distinction as many serious watch collectors are paying above market price as they happen to know that 1) prices for great original quality only goes up and ever growing scarcity, 2) by following the offers up close, they notice especially for the last 1-2 years that hardly any good offers come by as they used to see, making them willing to pay more, then for instance the last auction result for a comparable example. Personally I think the rare vintage Rolex will climb in price of the next following years. I also think that more regular but historical important Sports Rolex models like Ref.1655, 1665, 1675, 1680 will gain in price once they are not having any service parts and are not too much polished. Every 1950-is Rolex model will be highly collectable, not just the sports models like everybody is mainly focusing on but also the Precisions, Datejust, Day Dates etc. The 50-60 years of time span moves automatically so that in due every 1960-is and then 1970-is model will become highly collectable. Read by 2016 predictions…

Now we pick the models we love the most like glossy gilt Submariner or Daytona but in the near future a quartz Ref 5100 will be as collectable as well. The generation of watch collector evaluates as well bringing in new taste. In classic car collecting for instance, the future collectables coming in demand are those pictured on posters that were hanging above the bed of those boys being able to pay for their dream car now. The watch trends and their trend for collectability is certainly close connected with the car world. If it’s vintage watches or classic cars, the main reason you should have to invest in it is the pleasure you get back from it. If you’re clever and do your homework properly, you will find out what the real value of your vintage Rolex is. If you buy a vintage Rolex because you really like it, you will never loose money on it as the time you’re enjoying it, is the best investment you could have made!

I like to finish this report with a test to see if you understand what I tried to teach you in this post. Here’s a picture of a Rolex. Now before you scroll down to see my opinion, try to use the information I gave you in this report so you can come up yourself with the correct value of it. Good Luck!

OK, here we go. Once you would remove the pins on the side of the case using a pin, you will find the 7 digit Rolex serial number and the reference number. This will tell you it’s a Ref 1665 Sea Dweller. Then analyzing the dial, you will see that the graphics are different then the regular ones, specially the coronet and the lining of the SCOC text below on the dial. We collectors call this a “Rail Dial”. This dial has been produced by the Stern company (later owner of Patek Philippe) which also produced the Comex Seadweller dials for Rolex. This unusual dial we only see around 5.7 to 6.2 million serial making it when you study below serial number list from end 1978 – 1979. Next is to determine the condition, when you look closely to the finsih of the case and bracelet you’ll see the fine thin lines seems to be all original, smooth and steady, reflecting the light on a natural way. Specially the left corner lug seems to have some honest scratches on the chamfer of the bevel. The proportions are still looking nice and somehow sharp so the case looks to be in good condition. As I always try to focus on the “all over matching patina” we now focus if the different parts are having the same aging. The tritium luminous on the dial is a bit toned and is the same as the tone of the hands. From this we can conclude that they still seem to be the original ones. Which also tells us that most likely this Sea Dweller has not been serviced by Rolex yet as then most likely the patinated hands (with little corrosion on top) would have been changed. The crystal is not having the sharp corner on the edge which we see with service crystals but still the domed. The bezel insert is period correct and the little tritium dot is showing us a warm patina which matches the aging of the rest of the tritium. The matte black dial seems to be undamaged, look carefully at the edge, where you often see chips from removing the movement from the case for a service.

Conclusion: All over this is a great looking Rolex Sea Dweller, from the “white” period with rare “Rail Dial” still in adorable original condition, hardly or not polished, having a matching all over patina of case, bezel, dial, hands and bracelet. When searching the auction results you will see these sell now for € 10-15K euro, this particular model I would rate more towards 15K due to it’s fine condition.

The Rolex Serial Number List:

The Rolex Reference List:

The Rolex History by John Goldberger…

Rolex best invention, the waterproof OYSTER case…

See the trusted offers on RPM with some 400 vintage Rolex for sale, check them out to get an idea where important vintage Rolex dealers focus on….

I do hope you enjoyed reading this report and the information was useful for you. If you have any questions about your vintage Rolex, feel free to use the CONTACT button on top of this page or follow this link to send me your questions. Every day I get many requests coming in, which I do my best sending you a respond as quick as possible. If I might have forgotten or overlooked your messages, please resend it so I can make sure you’ll get your answer!

Cheers,

Philipp

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Rolex is cornering the Vintage Market – My Geneve Watch Auction Report – May 2023

Philipp — Tue, 16 May 2023 08:10:48 +0000

Rolex is cornering the Vintage Market – My Geneve Watch Auction Report – May 2023.

One paddle took care of several world record prices achieved last weekend during the watch auctions in Geneve. The mysterious lady is known to insiders as representative of Rolex. She was busy cornering the market for any ultra rare Rolex that came to the market. The elusive Daytonas Ref 6270 that sold for massive Chf 3,7 million, the steel minty Milgauss Ref 6541 for record breaking Chf 2,3 million both at Phillips, then she secured the yellow gold Paul Newman JPS Daytona at Sotheby’s for Chf 2,3 million. These are results that are almost 50% higher than we see in the regular auction and off market results, a massive increase indeed!

During my car drive back home I’ve been thinking about these extreme results and after a while I found peace with it. Since Rolex does NOT have an official museum yet, it seems like they are determinedly getting the best pieces available at auction to complete their archive. No matter the price! Now think of this, Rolex is made for eternity so in like 50 years the 2,3 million paid for the crispy Milgauss will look cheap. Geneve HQ is thinking long term with these investments and is basically helping me / us pushing the vintage market for rarest quality to a new level we’ve yet not seen before, just crazy! Also the pink Killy at 550K and the special provenance GMT master at 250K, the albino explorer and some others all ended up with Rolex. Minimum of 10 million she spend.

I’ve know the lady, which I hugely respect, for many years now. We both go a long way and are in business for more than 25 years. During these years she has secured many great Rolex at auction. Maybe one day we all can enjoy what Rolex hides in their vault for us. I’ll make sure to be their first visitor, putting my stretcher in front of the entrance waiting weeks prior official opening

Fact is, Rolex is officially entering the vintage Rolex market. Fact is also that this all is just the beginning. Hans Wilsdorf’s mission statement was that Rolex needs to do things different than the rest. Cornering their heritage is not new, every watch brand has done it, from Patek back in the days with Mr Stern personally in the auction room to theme sales about Omega, Cartier, Vacheron, Mille, Journe, AP etc. Building up a strong collection for their museum is an ongoing proces that never stops.

Making modern watch buyers aware about the history of the original has become the No.1 trick for re-editions, collaborations and also as inspiration for future models. So basically all cost are deductible and the money spend doesn’t really hurt them as it does to me pockets. That said i’ve huge respect for what Rolex has done last weekend. They showed the collectors world they take vintage very very serious and if you want to buy their iconic design at auction then you have to bring deep pockets. It takes 2 at auction to achieve a record price so more collectors were interested in these top lots now at Rolex. Some of them contacted me after the sales that they really tried doing their best bidding above their expectations but it was still not enough to beat the lady.

Then the vibe of meeting & greeting we all missed during covid so much is now officially back. Collector friends from around the world were finally able to join us in Geneve. Resulting in massive parties, great talks, making new friends and enjoying old ones. I was also flabbergasted to see so many youth faces, the new bread of collectors, joining us during the previews and later auctions. Aurel Bacs is still the master of auctioneers since he’s the only one that manages to control his audience of serieus buyers to make them bid one more time after they decided to quiet. It’s always a treat to see him work.

At all other auction houses I hear they cut cost further, let loyal employees go and focus more on online sales since that’s way cheaper than a live auction. This although all Geneva auctions charge you 27% on top of your winning bid. Again, 27% is a huge premium now that the market has become transparent and (better) deals can be made outside the auction world. I for instance got a crispy fresh to the market Rolex from the original swiss family who contacted me. An early Ref 6036 Monobloc JC Killy Dato-Compax that has the rarest dial version fitted namely sunken white indexes, 2 tone dial and luminous dots ands hands coming from 1952. They are still out there!

The big Pateks sold well, higher then previously, even when the quality wasn’t always top, collectors recognize the fact that any 1518 or 2499 in honest unrestored condition is super rare, pushing those that are hidden in amazing collection to new heights. It almost like there’s no price for Blue Chip vintage watches anymore. Every record will get beaten once those marvel sold in the past re-enter the market. I’ve said it many times and i’ll say it again, this is just the beginning! One day vintage Rolex & PPC will trade like the mythical Ferrari 250 GTO or any other iconic design that made history.

There’s still a huge amount of catching up to do by watches when you compare them with jewellery, classic cars, old masters, modern art and even rare real estate. The future is bright now that Rolex has stepped up their game. I’ve officially become rich now that ‘simple’ tool watches from Rolex bring millions. Always i’ve believed that this would happen, never was it my intention to ‘make’ money. I’m just lucky that the passion around vintage Rolex became what it is today. I’ve worked hard, traveled around the world many times to meet important collectors and go deep into their collections.

Some say it’s my fault they can’t buy their grail Rolex any more. I’ve tried to help our market to take away buyers doubts, expose shady dealers and auction house, teaching the community with the many blogposts I put online the importance of true patina and originality resulting in an ever bigger growing community of watch geeks. Collecting Rolex used to be kind of nerdy, nobody had a clue what I was doing. Today the record prices achieved are breaking news in the media around the world. You’re living under a rock if you’re not aware about the rush for rare watches.

Here are some of my impressions during my stay in Geneva. It was beyond great meeting so many of you! Take care and see you soon again somewhere around the world.

Best Regards, Philipp Stahl

The 2,3 million JPS from Sothebys..

Brasserie Lipp..

The 2,3 million Milgauss Ref 6541…

A selection of Oman Rolex that sold well at Christies..

Bottega…

A possible unique Ref 16528 Rolex sold for Chf 355,000

What happens in Geneva, stays in Geneva 😉

With the Uber collector Sandro Frantini, his collection is out of this world !! Dunno who that is on the right 😉

Spotted in the wild..

Way more rare then any gold Paul Newman Daytona, early 18K – 3 line – Daytona Ref 6263..

Also spotted in the wild..

Yes, spotted outside the auction room..

Hunting hidden treasures, I always find something rare..

More energy needed!

Goldberger being Goldberger, famous!

Its hard work being helpful..

At Sothebys…

I respect everybody who has contributed positively to the world of vintage Rolex. Giants like John GoldBerger or Pucci Papaleo but also the many collectors who have dedicated their life to research every aspect of vintage Rolex. If this is in the field of Daytona or Military or Comex, for every category where’re different specialist that achieve and record the market. Then off course all bloggers that support the wonders of our pre owned and vintage watches.

See you all next time! If you have any question please use the con tact button to contact me directly.

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Issued 4 – Rolex Collectors Meeting in London

Philipp — Mon, 08 May 2023 13:05:28 +0000

Mike and Jed put together a brilliant GTG named “Issued”, this time in London. For the 4th time this special watch gathering is taking place. We all had to wait for 3 years due to Covid but that made it all even more special to see and great watch buddy’s from around the world. So I packed my bag and went up to downtown London to see all my friends!

100 years of Rolex Evolution.

The man, the myth, the legend, Mike Wood!

Some of the watches that where put on the table…

Spectacular ;location, in the Parlement of the UK!

Not only Rolex but many more brands where on view..

Imploded Military Rolex…

Another one means collection, this time from New York…

A/6538 Rolex Big Crown Military..

Our special English Bus came to collect us at the hotel and dropped us at the British Automobile Club..

3 x rare Comex Rolex submariners…

London is ready for King Charles..

UAE Daytona…

For every Covid dead one heart…

Military Sub vs Deepsea Challenge…

Some tropical subs…

Rare Comex Hydra V Submariner …

Spectacular lunch!!

One mans obsession from the UK.

Destination: ISSUED IV..

Oyster Paul Newman Rolex Daytona..

I experienced this meeting as sublieme! Seeing so many old and new friends from around the world was just fantastic after such a long time. Many thanks again to all that made it and of course Mike & Jed for organizing !! Cheers Philipp

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The Vintage Rolex Buyer’s Guide by Philipp Stahl

Philipp — Sat, 15 Apr 2023 11:14:06 +0000

The Vintage Rolex Buyer’s Guide by Philipp Stahl.

So far close to 1 million unique visitors have read my “Vintage Rolex Buyer’s Guide”. In average it took you 5 minutes each to read my Rolex collectors tutorial. Thats’ 5 million FREE minutes of vintage Rolex Education!

Do you want to learn to buy vintage Rolex safely? Then start now with my extensive “Vintage Rolex Buyer’s Guide” thats free for you to study here online. But be prepared, this is a LONG article that will take some of your time to digest!

I noticed yet again that even seasoned collectors ask me on a regular basis obvious advise about the originality of their vintage Rolex. In a constantly developing market, where fine and honest quality has gone mad price-wise during the auctions, I wanted to add a basic guidance for you how to determine the originality of a vintage Rolex and make all details better understandable for any watch collector who is serious about his hobby. The main question I always ask myself to determine originality is what has been done to the watch during it’s life: Wear wise, service wise and dealer wise.

To complete my earlier RPR post: A brief introduction into the world of vintage Rolex and Patek Philippe collecting I now like to add my vintage Rolex Buyers Guidance to analyze original vintage Rolex – or any kind of vintage watch brand in general. After I’ve spend like 25 years looking at a watch face, case and movement, studying what has happened to it (swapped original parts? restored? serviced with later parts?) during its life, comparing & discussing them on specialized watch forums like VRF, I think it’s now become time to share some of my experience. I will further develop and update this post in the near future but felt like starting to share the most necessary information already with you.

I want to discuss the following important issues around collecting watches:

So what does “all original mean in the watchword?
What is “Rolex Catalogue style”?
Why is the “matching all over patina” so important?
What do I mean with the highly important „moisture meter” cq “condition meter” ? –> Check also: “The Evolution of Rolex Luminous”
Analyzing the dial, untouched case polish, hallmarks and movement. –> Check also: “The importance of the vintage Rolex dial“
What I mean with period correct swapped parts.
Explaining true tropical dials.
Warning for fake – counterfeit parts. –> Check also: “High quality Fake vintage Rolex dials”
Analyzing some vintage Rolex examples.
Provenance of your watch.
Conclusion and useful links.
Checklist to determine your vintage Rolex condition. Check the RPR article here

Below you see a original ‘iced” plastic crystal on a early Rolex Explorer that chanced transparency due to the radium dust…

In the modern vintage watch world, which is full of “put together“‚”swapped“‚”cosmetically enhanced” and “photoshopped” online and offline offers, at first we have to determine the meaning of the words: “all original“. The current market (as we see at the recent Geneva watch auctions yet again) has become all about rarity in the reference and condition but generally the word “original” is being abused by most offers you find. So what does “all original” mean in the watchword? My explanation to this is: A Rolex (or any kind of watch ) that still is in exact configuration as it was back then leaving the factory when it got delivered to the retailer and bought by the client.

As watch brands have delivered their watches over the world in sometimes different configurations, due to import tax, local taste or for instance special orders, the ultimate version to have, is the one being shown in their catalogue at the yearly watch shows ( think of Basel World ) As many global watch brands used to do and in particular the penny-pinching swiss ones, factories always used their left over stock of spare parts in their next designs. Then as most iconic watches where not very popular when they came to the market, it took sometimes 5-10 years or more to sell the initial batch the manufacture made. What we often see is that later delivered examples have different dials, bezels and or updated movements making them not exactly the same in detail as when the first ones got introduced.

A mayor influence on the originality has been played by the manufacture itself, namely during the servicing the watch. Original old parts, most importantly the dial and the hands, have often been changed due to the fact the new radiation regulations that became obligatory after 1964. The chance from radium to tritium ( with a maximal radiation of the total watch of 0.25Mvsr ) changed the dial description at 6 o’clock from ’Swiss’ to T-Swiss-T and later T-Swiss<25. Its due to all these facts that I use the word “Catalogue style” to determine the best possible version / configuration one could collect. A Rolex that’s still in the condition as it was published in their old catalogue, being from the first batch and not been serviced with later parts, is the ultimate one to have imho! Advise: Use Google to find pictures of original old watch catalogues. Specialist watch forums can help you out as well. As some forums are closed and google can’t get the picture out there to show you, it’s most of the time a small effort to register yourself and then use the ’search option’ For Rolex I can highly recommend VRF (www.VintageRolexForum.com) Besides the many freshly found examples that have been posted over the years, there’s a „Vintage Dial Archive”, „Rolex Serial Number Project” and a „VRF Classic Post” sections that are very useful to go through.

Now we know what is the best is to collect, next step is to determine the quality. What we often see when we analyze any watches on its condition, is that the „ all over patina” is not matching. An old watch that has been worn and stored during time will have patina on the dial. Furthermore it has little dents on the common edges of the case, show wear on the crown and leave marks between the lugs from the bracelet that was attached between the lugs. A perfect case with a non perfect dial are signs that someone is trying to cover up earlier damages. Or the other way around a damaged and worn-down case with a perfect dial and hands also tells us something has been done to cover up imperfections.

Advise: Check out ‚honest, untouched’ offers from private clients on Ebay.com to get a feeling how watches ages over the years. I can also advise you to check the sold archive of auction houses like Bonhams that have hardly take any ‚dealer prepared’ offered lots into their sales but just auction they lots as it is. Ones you have looked through many examples, your eyes get trained to spot original patina. Below a NOS Submariner..

On an older, glossy gilt dial printed with galvanic technique where you see the lume is actually added lower on the sticky white surface.

Below we see a 1963 Explorer Ref 1016 with so called “Underline”, sold in The Netherlands in 1965. The serial number is mentioned on the Chronometer Certificate. Although it’s having the “minute track ” and it’s marked only with “Swiss” at 6 o’clock, the luminous is not radium but already later Tritium hence the geiger is below 0.25 mSv as you can see..

Probably the best tip I can give you for the popular Rolex or any kind of luminous dialed watch, is always to check the luminous up close! The biggest problem one can have with a watch is humidity, entering through a broken crystal or damaged crown. The water condensation ( which is in many cases salt or chloor water) destroys the movement and will also slowly damage the dial and hands. Therefor I call the luminous material on hands and dial ( which is generally fluffy and added perfectly round on the dial) the highly important „moisture meter” cq “condition meter“, showing us what has happened inside the watch during its life. Once moisture has entered the watch, the luminous sucks it up and will become very dark on the top and sometimes even fall off over time. The luminous in the hands tend to tone greenish, leaving marks of corrosion on the surface of the hands. See below how original tritium glows up under ultra violet light..

Above you see all original tritium luminous on an Oyster Paul Newman…below a sad story as the luminous got newly relumed and lost 50% or more of it’s value ;-(

What we are looking for is „matching luminous of dial and hands”, both have to be in the same color, still fluffy and undamaged. In general you can say that the correct tone on earlier radium (Pre 1964 examples) is a „cappuccino” color and later tritium (after 1964) is a bit lighter, more yellow cream. As many dials during their lives have been re-lumed (newly added luminous due to water damages or because customers wanted to see it light up in the dark again as tritium has a lifespan of 12.5 years and looses its brightness ) we often see the all over patina is not matching.

Below you see is a first owner barn find Rolex Paul Newman where all luminous dots are still in tact and the luminous of the hands are matching the dial. It’s an earlier version, notice the much thinner second hand in the 9 o’clock register and different lay out of the bezel engraving, this is one of the first ref 6239’s.

Secondly you also see black 3 color Paul Newman where one could easily say it’s the same as above but it’s not, is a later transitional ref 6262.. And and without the crystal…

The luminous now looks newer then the rest of patina on the watch, isn’t matching the color of the hands nor does it has the same radiation as original ones. One should always focus on the luminous as this tells you what really happened with the watch you’re examining! See yourself with below luminous dots on the dial, they look non matching, are more yellow greenish, there where the tone of the hands are cream…

–> Check: “The Evolution of Rolex Luminous”

Non matching hands, you clearly see that the luminous on the dial is much lighter then we see with the hands. Below we see a all over matching patina on the dial and hands, after the crystal has been removed we see some dirt, that’s also located around the crown & pushers..

No marks on the dial, no marks on the hands near the center where a watchmaker takes them off and matching luminous of dial & hands.

Swapped, period correct parts has become a art in the vintage watch world. It’s due to the extensive experience and knowledge of the collector or the dealer to upgrade a already nice and original watch into the most wanted “Catalogue Style”. For instance if a crisp Big Crown Submariner from second batch (1957-1959) has been found but for some kind of a reason (Rolex didn’t always deliver their watches as seen in the catalogue) it’s missing the iconic red triangle bezel, finding the correct red triangle thats matching with the all over patina of the watch is very difficult! By doing so, you change history and to me one should always save the old original part where the watch was found with and mention the upgrade when it’s been sold.

Genuine vintage parts have therefor become blue chips. An original, un cracked bakelite bezel for a early 6542 GMT Master is like 1/2 the price of the watch. An early Milgauss & Military bezel or hands or even later all red 24 hour hand, all blue GMT bezels have exploded in price due to the fact the most watches where damaged, got changed during a service or simply where not delivered back then with it as nobody really cared about these details from the way we collect nowadays. We have to realize that most of the rare watches from today where made in small batches and where not very popular in sales. It took sometimes years to sell a initial batch and therefor we see first owner watches, never been serviced but still having later parts on it. To bring it back in catalogue style has become an art by itself. I prefer the real deal, below a first owner 18 carat Paul Newman Daytona still in untouched with plenty of DNA left, all original condition..

A hot topic are the so called „Tropical Dials”, dials that changed color from black to brown. I highly recommend to double check the luminous on these dials as we hardly see any truth tropicals around any more. The problem that moisture in most cases has, can become a dealer advantage as the top layer has been damaged and then chances the structure of the dial radically from black to brown. To get this damaged dial yet again attractive and all matching, dealers will re-lume it to hide the water damage. There are even watches around that have hand colored sub dials or have been put into a magnetron to speed up the process.

A true tropical dial has perfectly matching original luminous, an untouched top layer of the dial and chanced color because it used to be worn in a very sunny area and then got stored for many years in a dark place ( safe ). Up close this original tropical dial will look the same as a perfect non tropical brown, the surface is still intact, luminous is original and when you loupe it 100X you see the original one has a brown and a blackish pixel next to each other, there where artificial ones will show you only brown pixels. There’s thus a big difference between an original tropical or damaged dial, only original ones deserve a premium!

Advise: Buy yourself a regular Geiger meter (€ 150-200,=) to determine the radiation of your watch. Early 1950 watches with radium lume have a radiation of at least 20-100 Mvrs. The more we go to 1964, the less aggressive the luminous becomes, ending in 1964 when international law forbid to have more then 0.25Mvsr on radiation on a watch. I’ve written an interesting article about „transitional luminous” Rolex using Geiger meters to unravel the mystery of „The Underline”.

After we now know where to look at, by analyzing the luminous, if a Rolex is still in all original condition, we focus on the case itself. My experiences tells me that even a heavily worn watch still has its original shape. Maybe the edges are a bit worn off but generally i’m always surprised who great the shape of the case still is with a fresh find once it has been worn for like 50 years. As we hardly see these „untouched” cases any more, its logic to state that most watches have been „polished”. If you’re not yet aware about how a certain reference should look like once it’s not polished, I recommend you to take a loupe and look closely to the matt polished part of the watch. It’s with the matte parts where you can determine if a watch is polished or not.

Up and down, we see 2 x unpolished chamfers, beveled edges that are so particularity loved by vintage Rolex collectors..

A ‘common’ Rolex reference, the Submariner ref 5513. But as it’s still in honest and crisp condition, it’s highly collectable as all the original patina is still there!

How to spot a laser welded Rolex case?

As always when you start analyzing a vintage Rolex, every small detail is important and should match the ”all over patina”. With other words, the case should have the same aging as the dial, hands and bezel. In most cases when a case welder has done his job, he merely focuses on the lugs and chamfers with newly added bevels. Don’t forget, collectors want their Rolex laser welded because the case looks very tired and worn down. Logically the rest of the watch parts will still show you aging, once the case is looking like new, you will immediately spot it’s not matching in detail with the other parts.

But what if the dial was nice and the case only needed an small surgery to become much more impressive? If it’s not obvious the parts are not matching, look closely between the lugs, you will notice that this matt area is much more „worn” then the like new lugs are. Besides that, the case holes are often newly drilled you notice when looping them up close the inside is different, missing the necessary patina and also looks new.

Next, you have to know how a NOS Rolex case looks like, what exact curve is the bevel making and how wide is it as with every reference it’s different then you can compare it. Besides the glossy finish the matt finish polish on the case is pointing you out if it’s redone or original. The light breaks differently on a matt surface that’s recently done then on a matt surface thats done 20-40 years ago. Small scratches will be on top of the matt finish and you will see a depth in it, besides the fact that the newly added polishes are never having the same structure sand lines when it’s done afterwards. Here’s a nice NOS example of how a small crown looks when it left the factory. Study the lines, polishes, curves and dimensions but most importantly, the all over condition is matching. Every single part is NOS, not only the midcase / lugs…

Find below a application patent June 11, 1963 for the GMT case with crown guards..Interesting for us vintage Rolex lovers, we see at the top that their patent at United States Patent Office got filled already on April 14th 1961 from swiss application on October 14th 1960!

Totally fresh monobloc case seen from the back, note how sharp the rills are and the gravure of the serial and the references still are..

Up close you will see with a polished example that the fine lines are not perfectly straight as most likely the polished cases have been done by hand, there where the unpolished cases have a manufacture polish, done when all parts aren’t yet assembled and always the same, in 1 go. The next important feature of a polished watch is that at first the case looks nice but the engravings made mostly in the case back are worn out, polished out. Again this is what I mean with „matching all over patina”.

For instance, it doesn’t make sense when the hands are luminous and the dial is not, the bezel is faded but the case looks like new or the crystal and pushers are of a later service type nor a newly fresh engraved „Asprey” stamp while the rest of the Rolex engraving is all worn out or you notice that a scratch on the case back is under the gravure while it was delivered with the gravure but now seems to be added later. Sometimes common sense will help you out when you doubt. The bezel is worn but the case isn’t or the crown and pushers are new where the case isn’t , etc.

Newly unoriginal lasered Military Submariner engravings…

During the years many cases, specially gold ones, got hallmarks or import – export stamps. If these little stamps, mostly hidden in the back of the case lugs or on the sides of the watch, are worn out and the rest of the case if looking perfect at first view, one can easily state the case has been polished. The same we see between the lugs, where bracelets with their end links always leave visible marks. A fresh looking engraved serial number and reference number, we find with Rolex between the lugs, can point you out that the watch hasn’t been worn a lot as the end links didn’t scratch the surface due to friction. I specifically add this remark as nowadays we see cases been „laser welded” ( steel or gold is added to the worn case by laser and afterwards polished in catalogue style). Besides the part between the lugs looking ’tired’ where the case looks brand new, sometimes the push pin wholes having a different drill can show you the case had a laser job done. Here some examples of un polished cases, some showing the original still fresh engravings and hallmarks clearly…

Above the french hall marks in the middle and the Hermes ( from Paris ) engraving on the side of the case back.. Ultra fresh and unpolished early Rolex chronograph. It’s a time capsule that seems to be unworn even after some 75 years!..

Crisp time only super elegant big size Rolex Precision..

Registered Design & Model Depose engraving still clearly readable on this pink gold Rolex Killy.. Fresh hall mark on the sides of this unpolished pink gold Padellone ref 8171…

The Rolex stamps & 18 carat hall marks spread over the 3 of the 4 lugs insides…

And although it’s not the rarest gold Submariner as it’s the second eerie with Feet first, ref 1680, it’s the condition that makes it collectable!..

Case back inside of a freshly found Rolex 6062 stelline. Notice the small watch maker mark at 12 o’clock..

Each Rolex reference had it’s own specific Rolex logo & reference number inside their case back, up till like 1966/67 we also see the date added once left the manufactory. As most Rolex are perpetual calibers, you can spot a worn out automatic rotor leaving marks in the case back. Also individual service codes are always engraved by the watchmaker…

Advise: Buy yourself a professional loupe with 10 x magnify, I recommend the Zeiss Loupe you can get at your local optician or easily purchase at a stamps shop. Always loupe with both eyes opened, don’t close the one you’re not using. Never use a loupe that has an integrated lamp or violet light, it will damage your eyes.

The movement has become secondary in watch collecting the last years of grande revival. Funny enough when you think about a watch, logically the movement should be what it is all about. When watch collecting started long ago, the focus was always on highly complicated movements, built in pocket watches and later after WWII commonly in wristwatches. We still see that the old school collectors are merely interested in a rare version of hardly seen complication but generally the new way of collecting has changed dramatically. Now it’s the face and it’s uniqueness next to the preservation that became popular. New buyers enter the market and are solely interested in building up a collection of very nice looking, iconic wristwatches.

The push in price we noticed on the Daytona since some 2 years is amazing. A Paul Newman Daytona or Killy DatoCompax using a non Rolex modified Valjoux caliber have broken every record. There where an iconic small or big crown Submariner, Milgauss, Explorer, Day Date or GMT master with in house Rolex manufacture movements don’t reach the same level yet. This will most likely happen soon because Rolex’s innovative spirit and magnificent heritage lies in the references that are totally designed by them, including the movement!..

The patina on the top of the movement should match with the rest of the watch, if you see a clean case, most logically the movement will also be clean when you open the back. My tip is to check the most commonly used parts up close and see how their condition is. With other words, to get the movement out of the case one needs to unscrew the crown and the movement plates at the edge that are holding the movement tight in the case. When you notice that the screw to release the crown, mostly located near the 3 o’clock opening where the crown goes into the movement, is damaged on the surface, it means it has been taken out a lot. A not so precise watchmaker probably used the wrong screwdriver and damaged the top of the screw and the surrounding of the plate. The same you check with every screw visible from the top. Water damage will oxidate the movement making it look brownish and dirty. Here it helps to analyze NOS ( new old stock ) movement pictures to get an idea how they looked like. As most Rolex are waterproof, using the Oyster concept, the screw thread thats attached on the case back will reveal you heavy use or not. Any watchmaker who serviced a watch made his marks engraved in the case back, spotting many of those individual codes will tell you it has been serviced a lot.

Below Submariner movement, caliber 1560, is still having it’s original rotor..

Up close, the reference number, below the Brevet + marking.

And analyzing the fonds of the Rolex serial numbers engraved between the lugs up close…

Then last but certainly not the least interesting, fake – counterfeit parts: Many collectors have experienced that a so called great deal turned out into a nightmare. Since many years the collectors market in general has been overloaded with un original, later produced, counterfeit practices. As modern watch collecting has become all about the dial, we see many creative crooks trying to enter the market of big money. Reproducing a dial in all it’s details is becoming better and better, even to a degree where it’s almost impossible to determine right or wrong. It’s improving so fast, due to the use of modern technics, that one should remove the dial out of the case ( with all risks of damaging it ) to be certain if it’s a original one or not.

Magnifying it up to 100-200 x and comparing with one thats proven original isn’t possible for many collectors. Therefor buying from a trustable source where returning a watch with issues is never a problem, has become highly recommendable. Often when a deal is to good to be true, something is smelling fishy. Be aware and try to train your eyes to notice every small detail that’s not like you’ve seen before. Question every difference, ask fellow collectors or post your picture in a watch forum online before making the deal! See below a fake Rolex Submariner dial, where the printed graphic is becoming very close to original. If you doubt buying from pictures, always make sure you see the watch in your hands before finishing the deal. Once you’ve handled these fakes, you’ll notice that the patina is wrong. In those cases your eyes tell you the dial seems to be ok at first look but when you examine it up close, with your loupe, your brain is warning you to be extra careful as something is not correct. Same as above, the print is almost spot on ( compare it yourself with the 2 original cut outs I added on top of the picture ) but the patina of the laquer and the luminous are new and the dial has hardly any radiation although it’s a mid 50-ies Rolex design that originally is having a strong radiation. Be aware!! Below we see a original Radium Submariner dial where the aggressive radium dust has eaten up the top layer of the finished dial..

In below picture you see clearly the way of printing that this glossy minute track Submariner Ref 5512 with SCOC text. These last 2 lines are added on top of the already finished laquer, there where the Submariner & 200m=660FT, is below the finish.. .

On the left you see a service crystal with a facet on the edge, there where the original crystal is domed.

Be aware, high quality fake vintage Rolex dials are been offered into our market, read my RPR article on how to determine a fake dial here! As I reported you several times in last decade, the fakers are getting better and we all have to be very careful in what we buy for our collection. In my Buyers Guide I recently posted you can read about the little details that are so important for the originality of a true vintage Rolex. Since some while now we, the inner circle of hardcore vintage Rolex dealers & collectors, have noticed that fake Submariner dials are being sold as genuine. It seems most pop up in Europa, at the moment, the source might come from Germany and the UK but quickly they are also offered in the US and Asia. These new generation fakes have become very very good in quality and one needs to be an expert to see the difference, specially when you’re looking at a picture only. The text is almost 100% copied due to the use of modern techniques a dial design is blown up 100x the normal size and then corrections are made into detail…

The left one is original Rolex there where the right one is counterfeit. I pointed out for you where the graphic is off. FAKE! With everything that has been made new to look old the graphics might become closer but the patina and aging is missing. FAKE! Even when the crooks add patina on below dial, you see it’s newly made… FAKE! Often you immediately notice the sloppy lume job, something at Rolex would never happen / or got approved… FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE! FAKE!

Every Rolex reference has it’s own unique Rolex crown, printed or applied on their dial. To make it even more complicated, in those references that had been produced for a long time ( Like 5512, 5513, 1675, 1016 etc) we see different types in different periods. In the near future I’ll make a overview, for now a collage:

Ok, now lets analyze 2 x examples with the knowledge from above. What do we think has happened to below pictured Submariner Ref 6538? Look closely and try to answer yourself before you scroll down..

As always, first focus on the luminous on the dial and that on the hands. We clearly see that the color in the hands is much lighter then the color on the dial, so this immediately tells you: something has been done to make it look nicer. The hands in general have a bigger amount of luminous than the dots on the dial, besides that, the luminous in the hands does not have a surface compared to the dial. Therefor generally speaking hands tend to change later in color then the dial. What we see is just the other way around, besides that, the hands are to small as the minute hand is not reaching to the minute track but stop just before.

So at first, your alarm bells should already have gone off, something is suspicious, hands where not those that where born on this iconic Submariner. Next we look carefully to the luminous on the dial, in specific at 3-6-8-9 and 12 o’clock. We notice that the radium lume ( swiss dial ) is not perfectly added and hanging over the gilt lines printed on the dial. As Rolex always have done this perfectly it means it’s not Rolex, done afterwards. SO besides the hands, the luminous is also not original as we want to see it. Fact is that the dial has gone tropical, from initial black to brown caramel. As the lume on the dial is renewed professionally the discoloration of the dial has happened due to a moisture problem and not due to heavy UV light and long storage, so in other words, it’s a damaged dial that got cosmetically enhanced to fool people. The next one, a 4 line Submariner small crown ref 5508. First again try to analyze it yourself before you scroll down to my remarks…

We start as usual to check out the color of the hand & dial luminous. With this one the both colors looks seem to match at first sight. But once you focus on the hands you see again that they are to short. Minute and second hand are not reaching the minute track on the outside. Besides that, given the fact that this is also a swiss radium dial, we don’t see any corrosion on top of the gilt hands, done by the radium dust. So again, your alarm bells should ring by now. Next we inspect the luminous up close on the dial, we notice that the top layer of the luminous dots have lost their rounded structure. Actually the top have been scratched of to remove the stains that where there initially.

As the lume is the moisture meter we’ve learned, in this case the moisture has entered the inside and got sucked up by the luminous making it turn brownish black in due time. Many watch makers in the past almost automatically removed the top layer of the lume making them look like craters. So besides the hands, also the lume on the dial has been touched. Then we focus on the case and the bracelet, we see that the small hairlines are not consistent and the color of the steel is all over much too bright looking, meaning it’s recently polished, with other words, prepared for sale. The next Big Crown comes from recent Geneva sale from the market leader Christie’s. What do you notice?…

It’s about the same story as on the first tropical brown Submariner we analyzed up here except the hands look to be more matching. Why I bring this one up as a example to discuss is that if you where a buyer and you would only trust the pictures published by Christie’s online and in their catalogue, you would never had seen that the middle of the dial shows circular damages. This is due to the fact that the hour hand was pushed to hard while placing it back and then slowly damaged the surface of the dial. The glossy lacquer is irreparable. I strongly advise you when you want to buy at an auction, always to make sure you check the actual watch ( preferable in daylight ) before the sale starts. The enormous amount of photoshop done is a thorn in my side. It’s cheating with the trust they have earned by becoming market leader imho. I honestly think all auction houses should stop using photoshop. To rest my case, following pictures is of an early 1956 Big Crown with 4 lines coming for sale in NY soon…

Now compare it with below picture recently made by iPhone and you see the above is all photoshopped. Even the typical greenish 6 o’clock index we see on early sports Rolex from 1954-1957, has become the same color as the rest of the luminous on the dial. Over sudden the whole dial is also equally black. Advise: Use the enriched information from John Goldberger’s „Vintage Rolex – 100 superlative Rolex Watches” Application for your mobile. Besides the all the information from the book, there’s a section with close ups from the movements, case backs and dials! An absolutely must have for any serious watch collector and Rolex lover in general. It’s regularly updated with interesting data of newly discovered Rolex that come to the market. Check his website for possible Ipjone & iPad applications on Rolex and Patek Philippe over here: www.johngoldbergerwatches.com Provenance: I like to add in a update the proven history of a watch. Wikipedia says about provenance: The chronology of the ownership, custody or location of a historical object. the primary purpose of tracing the provenance of an object or entity is normally to provide contextual and circumstantial evidence for it’s original production or discovery, by establishing, as far as practicable, it’s later history, especially the sequences of it’s formal ownership, custody and places of storage. The practice has a particular value in helping authenticate objects but establishing provenance is essentially a matter of documentation.

With a Rolex this could be the original Rolex warranty papers that state the reference number and in some cases the serial number, the COSC chronometer certificate that state the serial number and movement number, the original receipt stating the price and article description, later service papers confirming the serial and reference numbers. Having pictures from the past showing the owner while wearing it and a letter stating it’s history is a must. As Rolex has delivered many different markets in the world, sometimes using local suppliers like we see with bracelets a lot for instance, many different versions of the same reference have come to the market. Having a proper provenance can provide us prove about the originality how it has been delivered initially. When you buy a vintage Rolex from first owner or from the relatives, always ask for extra information they can add. The more provenance you have, the better it is!

Conclusion: My general believe is that we nowadays see to many ‘worked on’ vintage watches around. Every day a nice and honest watch somewhere in the world gets a ‘treatment’ because it’s dial is having some little spots or the case has original scratches on it. By changing the original patina you destroy the vintage value for ever. It’s like a woman that has got herself a facelift to look more beautiful but doesn’t realize it’s never possible again to age and to return back to normal. As long she doesn’t smile, laughs or cry’s, not showing you her emotions, she looks as fresh like a statue or a picture. I strongly believe that even a simple steel Airking or Datejust, a Explorer 1 or even a Cellini will become highly collectable as long it’s alive and fresh and all original condition having it’s necessary patina all over.

The watch market has to understand that exactly these little scratches or small imperfections are the key to future collecting! Stop messing around and offer watches like they are and not how you would like to see them. Once everybody understand the importance of originality, we will see that a simple red sub in great condition will be worth double or triple the money they sell now in average. It’s due to the experience and knowledge you built up over the years analyzing, comparing and discussing that only honest quality has a future. Not buying a Daytona or even a Paul Newman because 1 lume dot is missing and although the total watch is nice and crisp, is nonsense! What I tried to explain in my guidance is that you have to be aware about a vintage watch that, for instance, got totally relumed by professionals, where the patina is destroyed and thus not worth buying. We have to realize that perfect grail watches are super rare and not everybody will be able to acquire one in crisp “catalogue style” as the price will only go up rapidly because we know now not many more will come to the market. Settle for honest quality is my advise, no matter the reference, believe in true patina and buy the best your wallet allows you to!!

I really hope the above quick guidance I set up will help many novice and senior collectors to understand what they are seeing. Always believe your eyes and never the story you get told! Analyze everything up close, use common sense and make your due diligence before you buy a vintage watch or a vintage Rolex in particular! Make sure that when you’re not happy, you can return the watch and never wire any amount if you’re not 100 % sure that this is the actual owner. The world of vintage Rolex is full of scam and laster, relying on a trustable dealer, who has a reputation to defend, is most of the cases the best option you have. In case of any emergency you can always send me a picture to info at Rolex Passion Report .com where I will have a closer look at your question and give you my free opinion. To determine if a Rolex has the correct serial numbers, where it has been delivered or to get a original Rolex service, you can contact Rolex Heritage Department in Geneva directly. Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed it! I wish you lots of fun with your passion of collecting Rolex, or any other watch

Best to all of you!

Cheers Philipp Stahl

I like to add the important “Evolution of Rolex Luminous” at the end of this post for your eduction purpose….

A lot has already been written about the impact of the luminous used in wristwatches. In specific the turn from using radium to tritium has been discussed in length on vintage Rolex Forums. Today I don’t want to debate the dangers of early radium nor the legal impact radiation had for the swiss watch companies. I merely want to make a general overview that’s useful for Rolex collectors to understand the differences of luminous, their used time period, the influence it had on the condition of the dial and what typical details one has to look for when analyzing a vintage Rolex. As you could have read earlier in my vintage Rolex Buyers Guide, the luminous in general I see as a “Moisture Meter” or more specific, a “Condition Meter” of which you can determine what has happened inside a Rolex during it’s life. As long as you don’t inhale early radium pre 1953, there’s no need to panic, you can wear your vintage Rolex as often as you want, even James Bond knows…

At first I like to start with the overview of the approximate date of luminous used by the Rolex Company:

Prior – 1953, The early age of Rolex luminous, used on their pocket watches, early oyster cases, bubble backs and radiomir Panerai’s.
1953 – 1956, When Rolex introduced the world their sports / utility / tool watch concept with radium Submariner, TOG, Explorer & GMT Master.
1957 – 1960, When Rolex lowered radiation and chanced dial printing from 1 to 2 colored print and enhanced the lacquer to a more glossy variant.
1960 – 1963, The pre ‘Transitional” period with “Exclamation” mark and due to the starting international regulation, again less radioactive luminous.
1963 – 1964, “Transitional” underline of which Rolex switched from Radium to Trtium, delivered dials are “swiss” signed but laminated with tritium.
1964 – 1967, The new generation tritium luminous got added on glossy dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”.
1967 – 1983, The matte dial with tritium luminous got introduced by Rolex. We see tritium signings variations like T Swiss T<25 or σ T-Swiss-T σ.
1983 – 1997, The last era of the tritium dials when the glossy dial surface came back, now the luminous was added in a added white gold surround.
1998- 2000, LumiNova was invented in 1993 and patented in 1995; Nemoto & Co. Ltd. was contracted in 1998 to provide LumiNova to Switzerland.
2000 – 2008, Super Luminova, a improved version of Luminova, a material that has the same properties as tritium but is not radioactive.
2008 – now, Chroma Light, the new blue-ish colored Super Luminova thats been in use since Rolex patented it.

The early aged radium dials from the 20-ies and 30-ies where merely fitted on a emaille surface, using strong first generation Radium that by then not known that it could be dangerous. In contraire, radium drinks where sold to cure health issues but soon this chanced after the tragic story about the Radium Girls. For the Rolex collectors under us, the period that started at Rolex from 1953, is one of the most interesting time phrases for aficionado’s. The Turn O Graph Ref. 6202, Submariner Ref. 6204 & 6205 and later the Big Crown Ref. 6200 are the beginning of the since then ever lasting legendary tool – sports watch concept.. What we see in above and in below pictures are first generation Rolex Sports models. In many cases the radium luminous has turned greenish when moisture – condense came into the case as you can see above. In below Submariner ref 6200 you can clearly see that the radium dust is covered over the dial, mostly around the radium plots. One of the characteristics of these early sport dials is the fact the they have a 1 color print and a lacquer finish thats not as shinny as we see in later examples. The radium dust, one never must inhale, leave small stains on the surface of the dial. In below picture you can also clearly see the transparant paste in the hands that was added before the radium luminous came on top.

2 x Submariner Big Crown but both very different in detail. First is a 1954 Ref 6200 with later added “Submariner” at 6 O’clock, secondly we see a 1958 Ref 6538 with 4 line dial, besides the depth rate and Submariner, this version has a OCC ( Official Certified Chronometer ) movement.

Up close a early Ref 6204 with black “Honeycomb” dial, split logo ( Submariner & Perpetual) pencil hands and slightly visible, the OCC sign at 6 o’clock. The radium dust has slightly eaten the dial surface. The missing luminous in the second hand has been spread around the dial. Moisture made the pencil hands inside turned dark as well as the plots on the dial greenish.

Next we see a first generation Big Crown Ref. 6538. You notice that the depth rate ( 200M = 660Ft ) and the Submariner print are both in 1 color! Another typical detail we see is the 6 o’clock marker being more bright then the rest of the radium plots. Most probably this marker is a special mix of radium for easier underwater readability.

Detail comparison: Left and middle version are both early 6538’s with 1 color print, there where the right one is having a 2 color print ( for depth rate & OCC)…

Next to each other, second and first generation Rolex Big Crown’s. Clearly visible is the different finish that covers the dials, there where the later left one is all shinny and glossy is the right one of first generation. A lot of research I’ve done on these Submariner Big Crown’s and my standard procedure was to measure the dial with a geiger meter. From the results I can inform you that the radiation between first & second generation 6538’s is significant, depending on the condition of the luminous of as well the dial and hands, the later glossy versions where at least 5 times less radio active, hence the better condition you find them now.

Close up of a fully in tact radium 6 o’clock Explorer ref 6350 marker from 1953…

Comparison: You will notice that the graphic chanced over the years with the later version we see on the right. The Submariner text has become more modern.

A typical detail you hardly see at any pictures on the internet is the unique patina of the glossy dial surface. The to each glossy Rolex dial unique tiny cracks are only visible when you play with the light. Furthermore we see that the top part of the Rolex print is punched in the dial and as well the ‘submariner print. The depth rating and OCC are added later, on top of the finished lacquer, making it possible for Rolex to print 1 dial and later modify it for their needs.

Not many Rolex collectors are aware about the fact that the Big Crown & Small Crown versions are having the same graphics. Below you see that at this pre stamped the depth rating for small crown was used and added over the already finished lac. First Rolex service dial? (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study).

Another interesting detail is the white surface underneath the radium plots that was added to the dial so the luminous could stick on easily. Rolex luminous is always between the gold surroundings and hardly ever will go over it, something you see with later resumed dials a lot, the luminous material is often bigger then the white plot…

If moisture enters the case, it will damage the surface and leave little black stains on the lume dots, as you can see below. Again, the luminous on the dial and hands, are the condition meter showing you what happened over the years with the watch. Moisture and condens will be sucked up by the luminous and make it chance color to dark and ugly, then it will destroy the top layer of the dial.

Yet another example of cracked surface. This particular SCOC small crown 5508 is almost all over damaged and the grooves have become very deep…

And another cracked one. In both 3 examples we see that the hands have also been chanced during a service by Rolex to later smaller ones, meaning that all 3 of them had a water problem back in the days and the original radium hands where chanced to later tritium ones, hence the different in color of the luminous.

See below a broken dial finish that flakes…

While analyzing the below 2 photo’s now you clearly notice that the hands do NOT match the rest of the color of the luminous, thus something has happened afterwards before sit went to auction. Are these the original hands and has the dial been swapped perhaps?

Below you can see pictures of the radium investigation I made on many different sport Rolex and other watches during the recent years. I specifically was interested to see the rate of a untouched original owners Rolex as with them we knew nothing has been done to chance the look / originality. Below a early Panerai Radiomir ref 3646, below measurements from the back..

And up front it’s much higher. This ref 3646 is still in original untouched condition with it’s original crackle crystal..

A 1953 Rolex ref 6202 in untouched original condition showing us a high radium dial measurements…

A Rolex ref 6542 up front, untouched 1958 example with bakelite radium bezel..

The geiger went really crazy on the early Panerai tools, below a high reading on a compass..

And on a original untouched Panerai depth meter…

From the Panerai book of Volker some more geiger results.

Another tip besides using a geiger meter is using ultra violet light to determine the presence of radium is a must…

The bakelite bezel on the GMT Master ref 6542 was highly radio active. This has become a huge issue in Rolex past when a client brought his Rolex in the US and wanted to ship it out to Singapore, the government noticed the extreme radiation and started a investigation against Rolex in the US. All 600 plus examples that where sold in the US had to be tested on the presence of strontium 90… Below you see a official Rolex document that states that the 6542 GMT master has been tested and no violence of AEC regulations. (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study) Above a close up of the bakelite GMT bezel and below the GMT Master 6542 of legendary explorer next to Jacques Piccard Deepest dive, Lt. Don Walsh..

You see the bezel lights up, there where the dial is not reacting to the ultra violet light. Meaning the bezel is radium and the dial has been relumed with non radioactive material…

Front radiation of a Big Crown 6538 and below the bright lightning 6 o’clock marker of a 5508 small crown under ultra violet light. The bright 6 o’clock marker was most probably done by Rolex designers to help divers read the dial in the dark quickly and clearly. The luminous dot that was added on the bezel and used for timing the dive is not logically always on the 12 o’clock spot so to help the visuality Rolex chanced the luminous of the 6 o’clock marker to a more greenish mixture is my consensus.

Below you see a early Submariner which has been resumed with luminous. Not always will the Geiger meter give you 100 % proof as nowadays specialist are using old radium to relume a dial. But if you look closely you will see that the luminous is not perfectly added within the round plots, clearly not a Rolex job…

Geiger alert on first generation Submariner…

Big Crown 6538 forms second generation, produced in 1958 with glossy gilt dial and radium luminous… Original condition of a rare 369 Submariner version when it was discovered. You see the stains of oxidation on the surface, something that can easily be cleaned with distilled water.. Radium swiss Rolex ref 6234 with original luminous. All plots are perfectly shaped and color on the dial is matching the luminous of the hands, first owner find still in all original condition..

The same we see in following examples, a rare waffle diales Datejust with radium luminous on dial and hands. Notice the “burning marks of the radium” around the luminous, something we see more obvious on lighter colored dials…

A second generation Rolex small crown what got serviced early 60-ies but except the bezel insert, still has it’s original dial and gilt hands…

A early Big Crown ref 6538 minute track service dial with tritium ( Swiss – T<25 ) Different coronet and print technique..

A 1958 Rolex Small Crown Submariner Ref 5508 with it’s original bezel and spidered tropical dial. We see the humidity in the hands turned a bit green.

A ‘burned’ Big Crown dial that due to humidity, dry storage and lot’s of UV light chanced color and cracked in the surface…

Below you see how the moisture the radium chanced to green spots around the luminous dots on the dial. Nobody would really care about this face unless you see the backside…

To Sir E. Hillary from Rolex Bosecks, Calcutta

Last version of the Big Crown dial, the luminous becomes less aggressive and much brighter then we have seen before. Also the coronet is different then the typical small & big crown version we are used to. It’s more like the early 1959 Submariner 5512 ‘ thin fingers’ coronet.. Same much brighter almost greenish colored luminous we see on the last version of the small crown, here below 5508 SCOC 4 liner from 1962…

Around 1962 we see the exclamation mark, the little extra dot at 6 o’clock added on top of the dial is most probably a first sign of the dial maker to show Rolex (US – Canada?) clients that radiation has been adjusted to a lower degree..

Below you see a comparison of first generation Rolex Big Crown Submariner (1956 – 1957) on the first 2 pictures with 1 color print, then second generation ( 1957-1960) with 2 color print and the last version is the third generation ( 1960-1962) on the far left..

The pre transitional period shows us brighter luminous, this particular small crown Ref 5508 is having a “exclamation mark” we see around 1962 (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

Here a perfect example of 1959-1960 luminous on a tropical ref 5512 chapter ring…

Close up of a late minute track Submariner ref. 5512 SCOC, again we bright luminous added on the glossy dial.. Transitional “Underline” Ref. 5512 on the left and slightly earlier minute track on the right…

A transitional “Underline” which has been placed between Submariner & SCOC and a “White Swiss” added on top of the track. We see that the surface is slightly speckled, something thats more usual then unusual with these transitional dials. Seems like the quality was not perfect. A older dial plate used for a newer case design perhaps? Close up of the “White Swiss” added on top of the track..(follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

Fully gloss Ref 6234 chronograph dial where the “Underline” & “Anti-Magnetic” is added later. Obviously a old style dial design that got luminated with tritium.

Side view of a 5512 SCOC “Underline dial with a close up of the tritium plots. We see they are puffy and also the white disc underneath are partly visible. The underline and SCOC text is added later on top of the lacquer, the rest of the print is punched into the dial, laying deeper..

Yet another stunning transitional Sports Rolex, a 5512 minute track with underline, slightly earlier then the above example due to the close track.

and here another late 4 line Chapter Ring ref 5512 with transitional “Underline”, probably one of the very last minute tracks..

One of the very first Daytona’s Rolex delivered. A 922.xxx serial “Underline” with “Double Swiss” signing ( one swiss not visible as it’s located under the rehaut) The perfect voluminous tritium dots matches the color of the hands of this hardly worn exceptional rare Cosmograph..(follow the link to more vintage Rolex study) Explorer 1016 with of which we see the unique cracks in the glossy lacquer perfectly. You know also notice that the luminous on the markers and 3-6-9 are deeper in the dial located…

This “Underline Explorer 1016 has a tritium radiation, less the 0.25 Msv.

Close up of a rare service dial, one that only has a added “T” behind the radium SWISS, clearly added later and maybe a finished swiss dial that never got laminated and was used as service dial by adding the T and tritium. A Rolex service done after 1964 when international regulations forbid the use of radium…

The “Swiss T<25” glossy tritium dial from 1964-1967…. showing some light “spiders” around the luminous plots…

Next is a original owner Submariner sold by Bonhams in all the condition how the owner brought it in, untouched and some moisture stains on the glossy lacquer, something that can be cleaned of with ionized water…

A overnieuw from one of the most successful references Rolex ever made, the Submariner ref 5512/3 from 1959 till mid 80-ies..

Below some NOS (New Old Stock) Rolex and Tudor dials that have a rich patina due to the fact they where stored in the dark and haven’t seen the light for many years…

The more yellowish color of the tritium is cleverly visible in next experimental Rolex SeaDweller. The iconic “Single Red ref 1665”. Matt dial, white print, note also that the printed DATE behind oyster perpetual is much bigger in text. The red Sea Dweller text perfectly covers the white text underneath, first examples of this legendary reference had a 500m = 1650 Ft depth rate.. Shortly later, end 60ies, came the Red Submariner Ref 1680, of which many different version have been made.. (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

Heavy patinated Ref 1665 for Qaboos in like NOS condition…

A “T Swiss T” Daytona ( having 1/3 of the tritium as a more luminated Submariner or GMT ) Nicely aged dots are matching the color of the hands.

You see below the lume dots of the Newman dial are bit bigger due to the fact the where placed against the typical square newman index…

Here we see the tritium light up under ultra violet light, shortly after you did this, the bright color will fade away and stay visible in the dark for another minute or 2.

In daylight we see the luminous is creamy colored, once activated with UV light it become bright green.

3 x perfectly aged and all intact Oyster Paul Newmans…

Up close a detail of the structure of how a original aged tritium dots looks like, spongy.

2 nicely aged unrestored Cosmograph’s with perfect matching tritium luminous..

We see that sometimes the lume dot has been moved, most probably due to a hard hit like falling on the ground or so..

A MK2 thin case Double Red Seadweller with tropical dial. The red and white paint is as usual with matte dials added on top of the dial, without any lacquer over it. On single and double Red Rolex dials we often see that the tritium luminous is very thin, sometimes even more white then creamy colored.

Dark chocolate ref 1680 from the first serie, with meter first…

A Sigma ( white gold markers around 1970) T swiss T Daytona with faded tritium dots and tropical brown sub dials

All black sigma Daytona from first owner in untouched original condition. Perfect matching luminous shows a perfect condition of the dial..

Here below we see a modern interpretation Rolex Geneva made for a client, gold print of a modern design, toned luminous…

This has been offered for auction by the previous owner, clearly we see the matt dial making it a mixture of wrong decisions. Original 369 Explorer dials where printed in galvanic technique, making the text lay dieper, the surface was glossy, the typo was matching the date of 1962-1965 when these iconic beauties. I personally think it’s not ok and I heard they stopped doing this.

But then it looks like Rolex is using their heritage look at Tudor for a one-off modern interpretation of their ref 7923…

Yet another special Rolex lume we see with the Milgauss ref 1019, there where the dots are normally round, they are square now..

2 x creamy colored tritium Explorer’s, both untouched and still in their original condition. All 3 belonged to Sir Edmund Hillary…

Fat Ref 5513 matte Submariner tritium plots that are so big they touch the track on the outside…

Or no luminous at all on this blue Submariner prototype ref 5513 made by “Singer” for Rolex in 1967…

Ref 1665 as MK 3 DRSD on the left next to a little later by “Stern” manufactured “Rail Dial”…

Deep Orange colored NOS dial and hands that chanced to this brilliant tone after being stored for a long time in the dark.

2 x Rail Dial on the top, followed by a Mk2 with tropical brown dial and a Mk 4 with matt black dial… Close up of a naked Comex Seadweller ref 1665…

A later ref 1680 with feet first Red Submariner with very light colored tritium…

A Big Red Daytona Cosmograph with nicely voluminous tritium dots..

The transitional Submariner from plexi to sapphire crystal, ref 16800 & 168000. Matt dials in modern case, with anti scratch crystal was the way forward..

A safe queen ref 16800 that spend it’s life in the dark. Note the heavy patina on the dial and tritium dot of the bezel, there where the hands typically for this reference, chanced muchness in color tone..

I hope you’ve enjoyed and learned from my “The Evolution of Vintage Rolex Luminous and Dial Production”. I will add more detailed information as collecting vintage Rolex is a never ending story. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly: info at Rolex Passion Report .com

UPDATE: 19-02-2016

What is your vintage Rolex really worth now? What is the price of your vintage Rolex in current market??

Above collection is carefully put together by 1665collector.

What I often see when people send me pictures of their Rolex is that the hands, crown and crystal have been changed. The changed hands are immediately visible by the non matching luminous of dial and hands. Below clearly visible the non matching handset with the luminous on the dial, the tone is of the hands are almost greenish whilst the dial is more yellowish. This should immediately ring your alarm bells telling you something unoriginal has happened, somebody has restored it incorrectly…

During services Rolex cleaned the movement, pressure tested the case and changed the gaskets and often changed also the hands so these become luminous again. After 1964 radium ones where forbidden and later tritium ones lost their luminance in 15 years. Therefore, before you start comparing your Rolex with others, it’s very useful that you check closely if all the parts are original. But let’s start with the most common basics by checking out the main information you need to gather when you start analyzing your Rolex.

The reference number or Rolex model.

– Above, the serial number is clearly visible once you remove the bracelet, you see this Daytona is a reference 6264

– Below, the serial number from a Sea Dweller reference 1665 up close

The serial number or production number.

– Above the serial number is also visible now ( last 3 digits are covered ) making this a 2.731.xxx, which is 1971

– Below the serial number up close, 5.286.xxx making it from 1977.

Early SWISS markings at 6 o’clock telling us the luminous that was used is radium.

The from 1964 introduced tritium stamp at 6 o’clock: “SWISS – T<25” print…

Up close the “SWISS – T <25” print at 6 o’clock..

Here are some general advises for checking out the originality of your vintage Rolex:

First look at the Rolex coronet in detail. Every Rolex reference has it’s own coronet. Learn them to compare!

Secondly you look very very closely at the rest of the Rolex print on the dial, do this carefully. To make it even more difficult and make you understand what to watch for, here’s a link to an RPR article about Fake vintage Rolex dials I warn collectors for!

Then using simple techniques as a Geiger meter to see if there’s any radiation left on a Pre 1963 Rolex is very handy

If possible to open, the case back inside is giving you some extra info about the reference and in pre 1972 also the date stamp.

Then please use “John Goldberger’s 100 superlative Rolex App” for any comparison between your Rolex and one that is still in all original detail. Investing less then $25,= you get tons of precious information you can use to compare your Rolex after you found out the most import an basic information I described above. Follow this link to the AppStore to download it on your device or if you prefer visit Goldberger’s website to acquire the book.

You have a great overview of all models by reference, you see all case backs, movements and dials. There’s no better source!!!

Very important information about the serial number and movement numbers are published for you to compare!

Last but not least, check my –> “Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide” again with the new information you obtained and double check all details mentioned in my report to come to a final conclusion about the originality and condition of your vintage Rolex….

Once you gained enough information, you will know if the dealer is offering you a correct price. You could also discuss selling it by commission, so that the dealer get a fixed percentage of the sale and the buyer is wiring you the money directly. Pro’s of selling through a dealer is the fact that a deal is done quickly. You don’t need to wait as long as with the auction sale because they need to come up with a catalogue and in most cases travel around the world for previewing the sale to their clients.

Above Christie’s important watch auction in Geneva and below Phillips Auctioneers…

Back to “What is your vintage Rolex really worth now??”

Back again to my initial question: „What is your vintage Rolex really worth now??”

a Million dollar baby, the RCO – alias “Rolex Cosmograph Oyster” Daytona

A rare Albino Daytona ( recently sold for 1.3 million SFR ) on the left and a tropical RCO on the right, both from 1 collector!

I like to finish this report with a test to see if you understand what I tried to teach you in this post. Here’s a picture of a Rolex. Now before you scroll down to see my opinion, try to use the information I gave you in this report so you can come up yourself with the correct value of it. Good Luck!

As I always try to focus on the “all over matching patina” we now focus if the different parts are having the same aging. The tritium luminous on the dial is a bit toned and is the same as the tone of the hands. From this we can conclude that they still seem to be the original ones. Which also tells us that most likely this Sea Dweller has not been serviced by Rolex yet as then most likely the patinated hands (with little corrosion on top) would have been changed. The crystal is not having the sharp corner on the edge which we see with service crystals but still the domed. The bezel insert is period correct and the little tritium dot is showing us a warm patina which matches the aging of the rest of the tritium. The matte black dial seems to be undamaged, look carefully at the edge, where you often see chips from removing the movement from the case for a service.

Conclusion: All over this is a great looking Rolex Sea Dweller, from the “white” period with rare “Rail Dial” still in adorable original condition, hardly or not polished, having a matching all over patina of case, bezel, dial, hands and bracelet. When searching the auction results you will see these sell now for € 10-15K euro, this particular model I would rate more towards 15K due to it’s fine condition.

To check out the date of your Rolex you need to know the serial number, which in below list shows you the date:

The Rolex Serial Number List:

The Rolex Reference List:

Rolex Bezel Codes:
0 = Smooth/Domed
1 = Rotating/Engine Turned (early)
2 = Engraved
3 = Fluted
4 = Bark
5 = Pyramie (Not Used)
6 = Turn-O-Graph
7 = Various
8 = Special (Not Currently Used)
9 = Open (Not Currently Used)

Rolex Metal Type:
0 = Stainless Steel
1 = Yellow gold Placor (Tudor)
22 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster)
3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor)
4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor)
5 = Gold Shell (early models – Rose Gold on newer models)
6 = Platinum
7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used)
8 = 18k Yellow gold
9 = 18k White gold
BIC = Bi-Color 18k Yellow and White gold combo
TRIDOR = 18k Yellow, White and Rose gold

Rolex Dial Codes:
– first digit:
1x = Silver
2x = Champagne
3x = Black
4x = Steel
5x = White
6x = Blue
7x = Bronze
8x = Pink
9x = Mother of Pearl

– second digit:
x0 = Index (Stick)
x1 = Unknown/Unused
x2 = Sunbeam (Roman)
x3 = Roman
x4 = Bi Color Dial (Index)
x5 = Jubilee (Roman)
x6 = Maxi Arabic
x7 = Index (3,6,9 Arabic)
x8 = Waves (Arabic)
x9 =Sunbeam (Roman)

CHECKLIST to determine the condition of your vintage Rolex.

Before even considering zooming in on details, your first look should always be at the so- called matching all over patina. If a certain part of the watch, e.g. the case, shows clear traces of wear and tear, this should match with the condition of the watch in other places such as the dial, inlay, etc.

If something is not right appearance wise, then this is a clear giveaway the watch has been serviced or has been messed with to cover up its authenticity and originality. To make your assessment easier, I’ve composed a checklist of things to look out for when analysing a vintage Rolex. The list is broken down in case, dial and bezel parts. In my “Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide” you find all details per categorie.

If you systematically work through the list of details, you should be able to come up with a straightforward conclusion on the condition and originality of the watch at hand. At the end of this article you find an overview of the checklist!

Determining originality

Eying the case and comparing it with the rest of the watch, the challenge is to spot any discrepancies in the story the watch might tell you. Experience over the years has taught me that even a heavily worn watch always keeps its original shape. Obviously, there will be traces of wear at the edges but in general the shape should still be ok.

It’s all about the polish

One of the first things to look for is if the case has been polished. An unpolished case is more and more becoming a rare find these days, because it means the watch most likely has never been serviced. Polishing was part of service maintenance and as each watch officially had to be serviced regularly due to the replacement of lubricating oil inside the movement, many watches probably will have been serviced at one point in time. The purpose of servicing a watch was also to maintain the high standard Rolex always aimed for.

CASE

Magnify the matt parts of the case
Magnify lugs, font and back
Magnify bevelled edges between matt part and middle case
Case back engravings worn out
Hallmarks on back of lugs worn out but fresh case
Satin polish: difference case back inner circle and outer rim
Missing straight fine lines
Missing sharpness on edges of lug holes

Unpolished

In case you are not sure how a certain reference should look like unpolished, take a close look at the matte part of the watch with a suitable magnifier. The matte parts will tell you if a watch has been polished or not. Below I will post some pictures from unused vintage Rolex so you can compare yours with. Here’s a unpolished like new small crown Ref 5508. Focus on the edges…

Every angle is still sharp, the side from the bezel, no marks on the crown or side of the case and also not on chamfer of the bevel.

A unused bracelet is still stiff, you need to bend the links. When removing the band with the push pins before polishing, it will always leave trace marks on the case. That is why the lugs are often sealed with tape before band removal. A clear sign of a service polish are the drilled lug holes, or better yet the sharpness of the lug hole edges. Because once polished, these lug holes will lose the original sharp edges.

Following is a GMT Ref 6542 also unpolished and unused. Hard to believe that these almost 60 year old Rolex have been tucked away and now see the daylight. In a scale of impossible to find these unused miracles are listing top position. Collectors grail.

Another part to check if a watch has been polished are the chamfers, the bevelled edges between the matte part and the middle case. Tool watches like the Daytona or dresswatches like the DateJust and Daydate did not have chamfers. You will only find them on the Submariner , Milgaus, GMT-Master and Explorer II. Perhaps because of this rarity and value, bevels are particularly loved by vintage collectors. A bevel was merely for esthetical purposes. Each model had its own bevel, the bevel on the GMT-Master was a bit smaller than the Submariner one. This has to do with the fact that the Submariner model was thicker than the GMT-Master and the Submariner winding crown larger.

Little less rare are those unused, NOS (New Old Stock) Rolex from the 70-80-ids. Here’s a NOS Ref 6263 Daytona. Note the sharp bezel and all edges. There are professional polishers who take the whole watch apart when trying to polish it back to Rolex standard. This will inevitably cause loss of material, unless the polishing has been done very lightly. Not easy, as it requires highly developed polishing skills because you only get one shot. If it goes wrong, the transition in polish is clearly visible. But if you get it right, it is harder to detect with the naked eye.

Another indicator if a watch has been polished or not, is by looking at the fine lines on a watch. If these are not straight, the polishing has been done by hand. Unpolished watches only have a manufacture polish, meaning the case has a satin polish that was done at the Rolex factory before all parts were assembled.Every place where wear and tear could happen is still unused, the crowns, the case back, the lugs, the sides, bracelet, crystal. If you compare the case with the band, you will often see a difference in finish because the band is easier to polish than the case. The lugs are especially difficult to handle, so this is an area that requires extra attention with your magnifier. While attempting to make the case matte again, there will always be a 1mm spot against the edge, impossible for a polishing machine to reach. In fact, you could only do a proper polishing job by taking the whole watch apart.

Wear indicators case side

Original crown or replacement
Replacement crown periodically correct
Magnify pushers if present
Magnify top left lug for heaviest wear (left wrist watch wearers)
Magnify below lugs for end link scratches
Magnify below lugs for dirt/dust

A used but unpolished gold Rolex Submariner Ref 1680 nipple dial. With gold cases it’s very easy to see if they are polished or not. One complicating factor in assessing the polishing of a case, is that the satin factory polish has become more coarse over the years, if you compare models of the 1950s/1960s/1970s. I believe this has to do with the fact that production numbers rose rapidly and less time was spent on the finish of a watch due to the introduction of machine polish and laser check.

When polished, the back of the lugs will often have the same round finish as the case. You would expect this finish on the inner circle of the case back as well, but this will be sealed with tape during polishing. Still, you can always feel the difference between the factory satin polish and service polish if you go from the inner circle to the outer polished rim.

Wear indicators case back

- - Magnify screw thread for frequent opening of case
  - Original rubber sealing ring present
  - Original rubber sealing ring or replacement
  - Tarnish on screw thread
  - Magnify case back for service codes

Wear indicators glass

- - Original crystal?
  - If original, is there any ‘icing” visible
  - Is it a later service crystal with sharp edge
  - Correct crystal type corresponds with model

Above original Crystal on the left with lots of radium dust in there, be careful!

In below A/6538 Military Bg Crown you see the ‘icing’ in the crystal..

Wear indicators movement

- - Patina movement corresponds with patina watch
  - Magnify screw near crown for damage, those are often used to get the movement out of the case
  - Magnify the screws that hold the movement in it’s place, in below example at the edge in the middle of the lugs.
  - Magnify small screws for tarnish and if they have been used. Often a used one will show you burr on the screw.
  - Examine the screw thread. Often the rubber seal shows you wear. Also salt water will leave marks clearly visible.

Above the unused Ref 6542 case back inside and movement, which still looks like new. Below a patinated and used movement..

Serial Number

- - Serial Number present
  - Magnify Serial Number for clear engraving
  - Worn out Serial Number corresponds with worn out case
  - Serial Number matching with model
  - Serial Number matching with production date inside case back

Reference Number

- - Reference Number present
  - Magnify Reference Number for clear engraving
  - Worn out Reference Number corresponds with worn out case
  - Reference Number inside case back matching with number in between lugs
  - Reference Number matching with model

DIAL

Luminous

- - Type of luminous matching with period of model:
    - Swiss print with Radium luminous
    - Swiss + ! with lower Radium luminous
    - Swiss + _ with Tritium luminous
    - Magnify for Golden Swiss, white Swiss, double Swiss corresponds with period of model
    - Swiss – T<25 / T-Swiss-T / T-Swiss-T<25 corresponds with period of model
  - UV-lamp lest luminous glow for several minutes
  - Overall matching luminous in colour and fluffiness on dial, hands and markers
  - Colour of luminous matches period of model (<1964 cappuccino vs yellow)
  - Colour of luminous greenish indication for water damage
  - Stains on dial due to damage Radium luminous
  - Luminous paint completely inside surrounds

Above clearly visible are the 2 generation luminous stamps, the one below, swiss only and the one above, stating now that the luminous is of new generation, < 0.25MSv. Below interesting close up that shows the swiss has been reprinted over the lume.

Then a close up of the compound of the luminous. It always make me feel like a cappuccino..

Composition

- - Cracked dial when tilted in light
  - Magnify gilt lettering for correct application
  - Glossy dial corresponds with period of model
  - Matte dial corresponds with period of model
  - Tropical dial corresponds with period of model
  - Tropical dial with intact luminous
  - Rolex print under/over lacquer layer

Above flawless glossy gilt radium dial and below a sunburned cracked spider dial…

BEZEL

- - Ribbed edge of fluted bezel matches period of model
  - Is the inlay original and matching the all over patina.
  - Faded inlay matches dial and luminous, often inlays get changed.

Bezel, insert, red triangle, bevel, crown guards, big, small crown…

The flat bezel for the Ref 6541 has specially been made for the U.S. market

Bracelet

Is the bracelet having any stretch?
Have any links been removed?
Is the inside of each rivet in the bracelet un bended?
Are the screws used on the side to remove the link?

How do the bevels look? Round, worn, polished? If the bevel looks brand new, while the dial is not, something is wrong. If it is polished, then by whom? Rolex during service or an independent watchmaker? Certainly a trigger to look for replacement parts. Check below the stunning work LA Watch Works did…

Here’s a summery from the checklist to determine the condition of your vintage Rolex:

Case Condition

Magnify the matt parts of the case
Magnify lugs
Magnify bevelled edges between matt part and middle case
Case back engravings worn out
Hallmarks on back of lugs worn out but fresh case
Satin polish: difference case back inner circle and outer rim
Missing straight fine lines
Missing sharpness on edges of lug holes

Wear indicators case side

Original crown or replacement
Replacement crown periodically correct
Magnify pushers if present
Magnify top left lug for heaviest wear (left wrist watch wearers)
Magnify below lugs for end link scratches
Magnify below lugs for dirt/dust

Wear indicators case back

Magnify screw thread for frequent opening of case
Original rubber sealing ring present
Original rubber sealing ring or replacement
Tarnish on screw thread
Magnify case back for service codes

Wear indicators glass

Original crystal?
If original, is there any ‘icing” visible
Is it a later service crystal with sharp edge
Correct crystal type corresponds with model

Wear indicators movement

Patina movement corresponds with patina watch
Magnify screw near crown for damage, those are often used to get the movement out of the case
Magnify the screws that hold the movement in it’s place, in below example at the edge in the middle of the lugs.
Magnify small screws for tarnish and if they have been used. Often a used one will show you burr on the screw.
Examine the screw thread. Often the rubber seal shows you wear. Also salt water will leave marks clearly visible.

Serial Number

Serial Number present
Magnify Serial Number for clear engraving
Worn out Serial Number corresponds with worn out case
Serial Number matching with model
Serial Number matching with production date inside case back

Reference Number

Reference Number present
Magnify Reference Number for clear engraving
Worn out Reference Number corresponds with worn out case
Reference Number inside case back matching with number in between lugs
Reference Number matching with model

DIAL

Luminous

Type of luminous matching with period of model:
- Swiss print with Radium luminous
- Swiss + ! with lower Radium luminous
- Swiss + _ with Tritium luminous
- Magnify for Golden Swiss, white Swiss, double Swiss corresponds with period of model
- Swiss – T<25 / T-Swiss-T / T-Swiss-T<25 corresponds with period of model
UV-lamp lest luminous glow for several minutes
Overall matching luminous in colour and fluffiness on dial, hands and markers
Colour of luminous matches period of model (<1964 cappuccino vs yellow)
Colour of luminous greenish indication for water damage
Stains on dial due to damage Radium luminous
Luminous paint completely inside surrounds

Composition

Cracked dial when tilted in light
Magnify gilt lettering for correct application
Glossy dial corresponds with period of model
Matte dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial with intact luminous
Rolex print under/over lacquer layer

BEZEL

Ribbed edge of fluted bezel matches period of model
Is the inlay original and matching the all over patina.
Faded inlay matches dial and luminous, often inlays get changed.

Bracelet

Is the bracelet having any stretch?
Have any links been removed?
Is the inside of each rivet in the bracelet un bended?
Are the screws used on the side to remove the link?

I hope my checklist to determine the condition of your vintage Rolex has helped you. Check also following studies:

Many more interesting articles I have shared with you in the past you find in my RPR Archive. If you have any questions, please send some pictures by my RPR Contact button.Cheers Philipp

The Rolex History by John Goldberger…

Rolex best invention, the waterproof OYSTER case…

See the trusted offers on RPM with some 500 vintage Rolex for sale, check them out to get an idea where important vintage Rolex dealers focus on….

Cheers,

Philipp

The post The Vintage Rolex Buyer’s Guide by Philipp Stahl appeared first on Rolex Passion Report.

The Rolex Sultan of Oman Story…

Philipp — Fri, 01 Oct 2021 11:55:08 +0000

The Rolex Sultan of Oman Story…

The Rolex Company has made a wide range of different watches during their existence. Many different references have been made for special purposes, those for us collectors so much interesting are the Sports or Utility versions. Besides the Military Submariner batches made for the MOD in the UK, for the Forza del Peru in Chili and the Comex divers submariners in France, Rolex has also delivered some fine models to the UAE and for Oman. The special Rolex deliveries for the Sultan of Oman is this post dedicated.

Unworn, NOS ( New Old Stock) Rolex Seadweller Ref 1665 Oman, sold by Asprey in London..

What so special is about the Oman Rolex is that several details are totally different then we see normal see. For instance do the Seadweller ref 1665 and the Cosmograph’s 6263 have a “Asprey” dealer stamp in the case back. Asprey London was the official reseller who ordered the special Oman signed dials & watches at Geneva and delivered them to the Sultan of Oman. Read more about this interesting subject on Vintage DB blog. Each version has to be in the correct serial number batch, engraved in the case back.

Above, a exceptional group shot of Arabic Rolex, specially delivered to Oman & UAE…

7 x very rare Oman Rolex and 1 x Oman Patek Philippe GTG… This is maybe the first time these different models are together after they where initially delivered by Rolex too Oman.

Buddies!! ON the right a NOS ( New Old Stock ) heavy patinated Ref 1665 Oman Seadweller and on the right a well used one, much lighter by patina as the luminous has seen the daylight.

Above 2 x “Oman” Rolex Seadweller ref 1665 & below “Qaboos” specially made by Rolex for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said..

After it has spend many years in a drawer this so far 4th Oman Police GMT Ref 1675 found me. Almost unworn, with sticker on the back, crisp bevels and bracelet, the stunning patina on the dial an d hands make the look extremely rare and adorable.

ref 16750.

The earliest one thats found so far….

Another of the 4 known Oman Police GMT Master 16750. This one has been confirmed by Rolex Geneva and freshly serviced in Oman, it still has it’s original box and comes directly from the wrist of a major, who got it gifted when he was a lieutenant in Oman Police force. The hands are swapped and judging from the bright lume it was actually used.

Oman Police Ref 16750 & 16800…

A recent ceremony of Oman SSF ( Sultan Special Forces)….

Hardly worn, with sticker on the back, Rolex Submariner ref 16800 for Oman Police force…

Fresh, with still it’s 16800 Rolex sticker on the back as you can see below…

2 x Oman Seadweller ref 1665 of which the left one is NOS (New Old Stock) and in the middle ultra rare Oman Cosmograph..

Up close, Ref 6263 Oman. Note the special delivery lay out with “Cosmograph” printed at lower at 6 o’clock to make room for the red Oman Khanjar logo… The serial number has been engraved in the case back and is matching the one engraved between the lugs.

3 x special Rolex delivery to Oman; ref 16800 Submariner for Oman Police, ref 1665 Oman Khanjar Seadweller, ref 16750 Oman Police

Oman & UAE Rolex Chronographs…

Above, green Khanjar Oman Daytona

Oman Cosmograph & Seadweller, both 2 adjusted dial designs specially made for the Sultan of Oman…

One of the sexiest Daytona’s i’ve ever handled…

Qaboos Rolex Seadweller ref 1665…

Qaboos Rolex Cosmograph with tropical brown Big Eye registers…

Qaboos Rolex Cosmograph in NOS ( New Old Stock) condition…

Having the serial number engraved inside the case back and “Asprey” on the back..

A excellent Report & ultra stunning examples of vintage Rolex from the Rolex Oman era! Enjoy the beauty’s!!

Below a freshly found Rolex Qaboos Date with it’s Asprey Oman box…

3 million serial, untouched and unpolished, crisp case and black dial with rarely seen red Qaboos…

Same black surface, different red’s…

Yet another rare Qaboos Rolex Seadweller from the sides, clearly visible are is the untouched case with it’s original polish…

Thanks Luciano & Stefano for your following wonderful report about the Oman Rolex..

And here some more incredible vintage Rolex Oman examples I like to share with you ….

Rolex Daytona 6265 with Red Oman

First serie Red Oman Seadweller & last serie Gold Oman ref 1665 Seadweller..

Nice one Daniel!

The post The Rolex Sultan of Oman Story… appeared first on Rolex Passion Report.

Analyze the condition of your vintage Rolex!

Philipp — Wed, 15 Sep 2021 10:21:18 +0000

Analyze the condition of your vintage Rolex!

In this RPReport I share my extensive checklist so you can learn to analyze your vintage Rolex condition correctly!

Since I receive many emails from around the world with questions if their Rolex are original or not, I started to write a checklist so you can start evaluating most of the condition by yourself. Questions like: What are the exact points you have to look for, which little detail is important and has influence on the price are important questions I’m gonna try to explain to you in this RPReport. So lets start to learn to understand your vintage Rolex better…

Before even considering zooming in on details, your first look should always be if thepatina is matching all over! If a certain part of the watch, e.g. the case, shows clear traces of wear and tear, this should match with the condition of the watch in other places such as the dial, inlay, etc. If something is not correct, appearance wise, then this is a clear giveaway the watch has been serviced or has been messed with to cover up its flaws in the authenticity and originality. To make your assessment easier, I’ve composed a checklist of things to look out for when analysing a vintage Rolex. The list is broken down in case, dial and bezel parts.

If you systematically work through the list of details below, you should be able to come up with a straightforward conclusion on the condition and originality of the watch at hand.

Determining originality

Let’s take a closer look at the case to determine the originality of the watch and its condition. Many factors may influence if a case is still in an original state and what has been done to it by wearing and/or servicing it. Eying the case and comparing it with the rest of the watch, the challenge is to spot any discrepancies in the story the watch might tell you. Experience over the years has taught me that even a heavily worn watch always keeps its original shape. Obviously, there will be traces of wear at the edges but in general the shape should still be ok.

It’s all about the polish

An unpolished case is more and more becoming a rare find these days, because it means the watch most likely has never been serviced. Polishing was part of service maintenance and as each watch officially had to be serviced regularly due to the replacement of lubricating oil inside the movement, many watches probably will have been serviced at one point in time. The purpose of servicing a watch was also to maintain the high standard Rolex always aimed for. Nowadays professional watchmaker ateliers with modern computer can almost copy the original Rolex polish and make your case looks new again. Nevertheless, priority for your analyse is that by examining the case condition you generally know if a watch has been worn a lot so:

CASE

Magnify the matt parts of the case
Magnify lugs, front and back side
Missing straight fine lines
Missing sharpness on edges of lug holes
Feel the edges with your fingers if they are sharp or rounded by wear
Magnify bevelled edges between matt part and middle case
Magnifying rims of case back to see if it has been opened more often
Hallmarks with gold cases on back of lugs worn out but fresh case
Case back engravings worn out or have disappeared completely
Satin polish: difference case back inner circle and outer rim

Unpolished

If you are not sure how a certain reference should look like unpolished, take a close look at the matte part of the watch with a suitable magnifier. The matte parts will tell you if a watch has been polished or not. Generally i’m from a collectors point of view m ore interested in the fact that the watch is all original then if the case is unpolished or not. Let be clear for once and for all, the many times I read unpolished online when they’re clearly not is concerning. My bet is that 95% of the Rolex that are 50-60 years old have been services and then automatically got a polish. Below I will post some pictures from unused vintage Rolex so you can compare yours with. Here’s a unpolished like new small crown Ref 5508. Focus on the edges…

Every angle is still sharp, the side from the bezel, no marks on the crown or side of the case and also not on chamfer of the bevel.

Analyse the spots like bezel, lugs. crown that normally have the most signs of wear….

A unused bracelet is stiff, you need to bend the links. When removing the band with the push pins before polishing, it will always leave trace marks on the case. That is why the lugs are often sealed with tape before band removal. But you can see it anyways on the inside of the lug where the pushpin goes into the hole, there you will see scratches made by the push pin. A clear sign of a service polish are the drilled lug holes, or better yet the sharpness of the lug hole edges. Because once polished, these lug holes will lose the original sharp edges.

Following is a GMT Ref 6542 in also unpolished and unused. Hard to believe that these almost 60 year old Rolex have been tucked away and now see the daylight. In a scale of impossible to find these unused miracles are listing top position. A real collectors grail….

Another part to check if a watch has been polished are the chamfers, the bevelled edges between the matte part and the middle case. Tool watches like the Daytona or dresswatches like the DateJust and Daydate did not have chamfers. You will only find them on the Submariner , Milgaus, GMT-Master and Explorer II. Perhaps because of this rarity and value, the condition of the bevels are particularly loved by vintage collectors. A bevel was merely for esthetical purposes. Each model had its own shape of bevel, the bevel on the GMT-Master was a bit smaller than the Submariner one. This has to do with the fact that the Submariner model was thicker for deeper waterproofness than the GMT-Master and the Submariner winding crown was also larger.

Another indicator if a watch has been polished or not, is by looking at the fine lines on a watch. If these are not straight, the polishing has been done by hand. Unpolished watches only have a manufacture polish, meaning the case has a satin polish that was done at the Rolex factory before all parts were assembled and is therefor hard to reproduce…Every place where wear and tear could happen is still unused, the crowns, the case back, the lugs, the sides, bracelet, crystal. If you compare the case with the band, you will often see a difference in finish because the band is easier to polish than the case. The lugs are especially difficult to handle, so this is an area that requires extra attention with your magnifier. While attempting to make the case matte again, there will always be a 1mm spot against the edge, impossible for a polishing machine to reach…

Wear indicators case side

Original crown or replacement
Replacement crown periodically correct
Magnify pushers
Magnify top left lug for heaviest wear (left wrist watch wearers)
Magnify below lugs for end link scratches
Magnify below lugs for dirt/dust and traces of the end links

Wear indicators case back

Magnify screw thread for frequent opening of case
Original rubber sealing ring present
Original rubber sealing ring or replacement
Tarnish on screw thread
Magnify case back for service codes

In below ref 6200 Big Crown case back you don’t find any little service marks engraved as you see above, instead you see that the automatic rotor left a circled mark in the case back.

Wear indicators glass

Original crystal?
If original, is there any ‘icing” visible
Is it a later service crystal with sharp edge
Correct crystal type corresponds with model

Above original Crystal on the left with lots of radium dust in there, be careful!

See the different shapes of the crystals below. From super domed to domed and service edge…

In below A/6538 Military Bg Crown you see the ‘icing’ in the crystal..

Wear indicators movement

Patina movement corresponds with patina watch
Magnify screw near crown for damage, those are often used to get the movement out of the case
Magnify the screws that hold the movement in it’s place, in below example at the edge in the middle of the lugs.
Magnify small screws for tarnish and if they have been used. Often a used one will show you burr on the screw.
Examine the screw thread. Often the rubber seal shows you wear. Also salt water will leave marks clearly visible.

Above the unused Ref 6542 case back inside and movement, which still looks like new. Below a patinated and used movement..

Serial Number

Serial Number present
Magnify Serial Number for clear engraving
Worn out Serial Number corresponds with worn out case
Serial Number matching with model
Serial Number matching with production date inside case back

Reference Number

Reference Number present
Magnify Reference Number for clear engraving
Worn out Reference Number corresponds with worn out case
Reference Number inside case back matching with number in between lugs
Reference Number matching with model

DIAL

Luminous

Type of luminous matching with period of model:
- Swiss print with Radium luminous
- Swiss + ! with lower Radium luminous
- Swiss + _ with Tritium luminous
- Magnify for Golden Swiss, white Swiss, double Swiss corresponds with period of model
- Swiss – T<25 / T-Swiss-T / T-Swiss-T<25 corresponds with period of model
UV-lamp test luminous glow for several minutes
Overall matching luminous in colour and fluffiness on dial, hands and markers
Colour of luminous matches period of model (<1964 cappuccino vs yellow)
Colour of luminous greenish indication for water damage
Stains on dial due to damage Radium luminous
Luminous paint completely inside surrounds

Then a close up of the compound of the luminous. It always make me feel like a cappuccino..

Composition

Cracked dial when tilted in light
Magnify gilt lettering for correct application
Glossy dial corresponds with period of model
Matte dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial with intact luminous
Rolex print under/over lacquer layer

Above flawless glossy gilt radium dial and below a sunburned cracked spider dial…

BEZEL

Ribbed edge of fluted bezel matches period of model
Is the inlay original and matching the all over patina.
Faded inlay matches dial and luminous, often inlays get changed.

Bezel, insert, red triangle, bevel, crown guards, big, small crown…

The flat bezel for the Ref 6541 has specially been made for the U.S. market

Bracelet

Is the bracelet having any stretch?
Have any links been removed?
Is the inside of each rivet in the bracelet un bended?
Are the screws used on the side to remove the link?

Here’s a summery from the checklist to determine the condition of your vintage Rolex:

Case Condition

Magnify the matt parts of the case
Magnify lugs
Magnify bevelled edges between matt part and middle case
Case back engravings worn out
Hallmarks on back of lugs worn out but fresh case
Satin polish: difference case back inner circle and outer rim
Missing straight fine lines
Missing sharpness on edges of lug holes

Wear indicators case side

Original crown or replacement
Replacement crown periodically correct
Magnify pushers if present
Magnify top left lug for heaviest wear (left wrist watch wearers)
Magnify below lugs for end link scratches
Magnify below lugs for dirt/dust

Wear indicators case back

Magnify screw thread for frequent opening of case
Original rubber sealing ring present
Original rubber sealing ring or replacement
Tarnish on screw thread
Magnify case back for service codes

Wear indicators glass

Original crystal?
If original, is there any ‘icing” visible
Is it a later service crystal with sharp edge
Correct crystal type corresponds with model

Wear indicators movement

Patina movement corresponds with patina watch
Magnify screw near crown for damage, those are often used to get the movement out of the case
Magnify the screws that hold the movement in it’s place, in below example at the edge in the middle of the lugs.
Magnify small screws for tarnish and if they have been used. Often a used one will show you burr on the screw.
Examine the screw thread. Often the rubber seal shows you wear. Also salt water will leave marks clearly visible.

Serial Number

Serial Number present
Magnify Serial Number for clear engraving
Worn out Serial Number corresponds with worn out case
Serial Number matching with model
Serial Number matching with production date inside case back

Reference Number

Reference Number present
Magnify Reference Number for clear engraving
Worn out Reference Number corresponds with worn out case
Reference Number inside case back matching with number in between lugs
Reference Number matching with model

DIAL

Luminous

Type of luminous matching with period of model:
- Swiss print with Radium luminous
- Swiss + ! with lower Radium luminous
- Swiss + _ with Tritium luminous
- Magnify for Golden Swiss, white Swiss, double Swiss corresponds with period of model
- Swiss – T<25 / T-Swiss-T / T-Swiss-T<25 corresponds with period of model
UV-lamp lest luminous glow for several minutes
Overall matching luminous in colour and fluffiness on dial, hands and markers
Colour of luminous matches period of model (<1964 cappuccino vs yellow)
Colour of luminous greenish indication for water damage
Stains on dial due to damage Radium luminous
Luminous paint completely inside surrounds

Composition

Cracked dial when tilted in light
Magnify gilt lettering for correct application
Glossy dial corresponds with period of model
Matte dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial corresponds with period of model
Tropical dial with intact luminous
Rolex print under/over lacquer layer

BEZEL

Ribbed edge of fluted bezel matches period of model
Is the inlay original and matching the all over patina.
Faded inlay matches dial and luminous, often inlays get changed.

Bracelet

Is the bracelet having any stretch?
Have any links been removed?
Is the inside of each rivet in the bracelet un bended?
Are the screws used on the side to remove the link?

In my extended “Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide” you find all details per categorie.

Check also following studies:

Many more interesting articles I have shared with you in the past you find in my RPR Archive.

I hope my checklist to determine the condition of your vintage Rolex has helped you. If you have any questions, please send some pictures by my RPR Contact button so I can do my best to answer your questions.

Cheers, Philipp

The post Analyze the condition of your vintage Rolex! appeared first on Rolex Passion Report.

The Rolex Submariner Collectors Story

Philipp — Wed, 15 Sep 2021 07:50:41 +0000

The Rolex Submariner Collectors Story.

The history of the Rolex Submariner from 1954 to the present day has always been exciting to me. Not only the early 1950-ies when the director at Rolex, Rene P Jeanneret, (Why have we never got more information about this important director by Rolex?!) a gentleman and enthusiastic diver, was a major force in encouraging Rolex to manufacture a “sports” watch with a diving theme that also could be used as an elegant dress watch. Also in the 60-70-ies and early 80-ies the Submariner has always been the dive watch to have. After the huge succes of the conquest of Mt Everest May 1953 by Hillary & Tenzing & the deepest dives by the Piccard’s, Rolex learned that a regular off the shelves Oyster could make it to the top of the world so why not use this important achievement to sell even more Rolex. Their motto has always been durability, from the “Top of the World to the Bottom of the Sea”, Rolex proves dependable!

The Rolex Submariner is without doubt one of the most successful Rolex models in history. Not only because it more than aptly served its purpose as diver’s watch, although I am pretty sure only a small number of Submariners has ever seen a spat of water. Its appearance in several James Bond movies certainly helped as well. If you omit functionality and marketing, the Submariner success is mainly due to its elegance as timeless dress watch. It’s just one of those watches you keep looking at, regardless of wanting to know the time of day. The Submariner was launched in 1953 and officially presented at the Basel Fair in 1954.

Being the first watch ever to be 100 meters (330 feet) waterproof and equipped with a rotatable bezel for divers to read their time under water, it became an instant success. There is ongoing discussion on which Submariner reference came first, the 6200 or 6204. With a different 369 Explorer dial and different movement, the 6200 surely is the odd one compared to the 6204/6205. But, as you will find out more when dealing with Rolex history, conclusive evidence from Rolex HQ in Geneva is hard to find. It certainly adds to the myth of this legendary timepiece, which model came first is not of the utmost importance.

The 6204 was officially available for the public in 1954, but from a collector’s point of view the 6200 is definitely more desirable. With a thicker case and a larger 8mm crown so divers that wore thick gloves could easier handle it. This particular brevet crown crown gave birth to the watch nickname Big Crown. Only the Submariner models what were fitted with a Big Crown, are 6200, 6538, A/6538 and 5510, all very sought-after by collectors.

The innovative technology needed to produce the special Rolex Deep Sea from Piccard were then applied to the Submariner models. By adding a rotating bezel to a regular Rolex enabled divers to keep accurate track of the time elapsed underwater. By changing the regular dial from white to black and add luminous numerals and hands a new model was born, the utility Rolex, the Sports Rolex or as Rolex describes it: “In the early 1950s, Rolex developed professional watches that served as tools and whose functions went far beyond simply telling the time. These watches were intended for professional activities, such as deep-sea diving, aviation, mountain climbing and scientific exploration. The watches generated lasting enthusiasm and became known as the watches of achievers.”

Many years I’m studying the subtle differences of the Rolex Submariner and still once a while I learn something totally new. There are a lot of exceptions and important details. For example sometimes the depth ratings where in red, it had a depth rate printed the meters first, then followed by feet first, some models had 369 explorer type dials which where used for Military orders. Then there were glossy dials with gilt, silver and white print and minute track, open track. We see the underline, the exclamation mark, matt dials, open track, double name, military, comex to name a view differences and mix it all with radium and tritium and you come up with hundreds different possibilities. To give you a quick idea how many differences versions have been made which are important to us collectors, here an overview:

Ref 6200

with silver submariner
without silver submariner
with submariner + OCC
with double name (Joyería Riviera)
small Rolex crown logo
small Rolex crown logo + Swiss T

Ref 6204, 6205

honeycomb dial in 1 colour
gilt in 1 color
split logo
double name (Serpico y Laino)
blackout
underline

Ref 6536, 6536/1, 5508, 5510

2 lined in 1 colour gilt print
2 lined in 1 colour gilt print + OCC
submariner + red depth
2 lined in 2 color print
4 lined in 2 color print
double name (Serpico y Laino, Joyería Riviera, Tiffany)
Underline
369 small crown, red depth
369 big crown 5510 with Explorer Logo
369 big crown 5510 with 6200 logo
OCC

Ref 6538

2 lined in 1 colour gilt print
2 lined + OCC in 1 colour
submariner + red depth
2 lined in 2 colour print
4 lined in 2 colour print
double name (Serpico y Laino, Tiffany)
Single name Tiffany
Underline
369 + red depth
369 + Red Depth + OCC

Ref 5512/3

minutetrack, square crown, 2 lined
minutetrack with ’59 tulip – fifth finger crown / 2 lined, ‘cornini corti’ pointed
minutetrack with tulip crown / 4 lined, pointed
minutetrack with ’60-’62 crown / 2 lined, pointed
minutetrack with ’60-’62 crown / 4 lined, pointed
minutetrack with ’60-’62 crown / 2 lined, pointed, double name
opentrack 2 lines, white Swiss ’62-‚63
opentrack 2 lines, white Swiss underline ’62-‚63
opentrack 4 lines, white Swiss ’62-‚63
opentrack 2 lines, white Swiss underline ’62-‚63
opentrack 2 lines, white Swiss upperline’62-‚63
opentrack 4 line, underline in between, white swiss
opentrack 2 lines, gold Swiss ’63-‚64
opentrack 4 lines, gold Swiss ’63-‚64
opentrack 4 lines, gold Swiss ’63-‚64 underline
opentrack 2 lines, gold Swiss ’63-‚64 underline
6 versions of the 369 Explorer dialed submariner
opentrack, 2 lines, Swiss T<25 etc etc etc.

The early years till like 1965 where especially remarkable because there were so many different models in such a short period of time when we compared it to the later years. I believe the reason for this is that the Rolex was experimenting with the Submariner to achieve the perfect automatic waterproof divers watch, that withstands all circumstances. Hans Wilsdorf immediately understood the potential and the submariner was the root of Rolex marketing! If you can dive with it to 100 meter below surface, then you can sell it as extremely reliable above sea level.

The Submariner History by Reference:

1950-1960. Model reference: 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6536/1, 6538, 5508, 5510.

–>See my RPR article about the small & big crown Submariners by following this link..

1960-1980. Model reference 5512, 5513, 1680 red, 1680 white.

From 1980+ Model reference 16800, 168000

–> See my RPR article about Comex & Military Submariners by following this link..

The Rolex Submariner introduction at the Basel Fair in 1954…

The general consensus seems to be that Rolex introduced the Submariner 6204 to the world at the 1954 Basel Spring Fair and therefore this must have been the first Submariner produced by Rolex. The Rolex R&D department must have been developing these watches many years before official introduction of 1954. But the first Submariner to be produced by Rolex was the big crown reference 6200. Logically the ref 6200 being first because 6200 is earlier number then 6204 & 6205.

The Rolex Submariner, introduced in the early 50’s, laid down the tracks which most of their competitors would follow. From the rotating bezel that can be used for using the air time, the brevet water proof crown that sealed the case, to later flip lock clasp and extension link (to wear on a wetsuit) these where all Rolex innovations.

Rolex invented the business model for future generations of tool watches. He who is first to the market with a new product, wins and Rolex always wanted to win when it’s about durability. It was no priority early 1950 that any design faults or it does not life up to the guarantees made because these could be dealt with the introduction of a new and improved product. Rolex was never satisfied and pushed itself to the frontiers. Many divers all over the world have been testing Submariners in extreme conditions. The marketing department was coordinating this together with a special team of watchmakers who wanted to see the impact of heavy use and how to improve it. Divers had to keep an log book for how long, how deep their several dives where. From all this research of actually heavy duty use, Rolex improved quickly.

Rolex Ref 6200 ( Production year: 1953 to 1954 )

Although officially launched in 1955 the ref. 6200 used the old style bubble back cal.A296/775 movement measuring 10 1/2 lignes and the old non dash bezel insert, a large size 8mm crown, which logically was the first Submariner model produced by Rolex. Rumors thats Hans Wilsdorf thought this particular thick cased Submariner was a bit to much for his retailers and the alternative references with 100 meter waterproof case ( 6204 & 6205) where introduced instead at Basel 1954.

It seems to have been an experimental model being produced in low quantities with a 369 gloss explorer style dial with not always the name “submariner’ added on the dial. The radium hour mercedes hand is an extra long and the second hand had a big lollipop to make it clearly visible in the deep dark. For commercial reasons they opted to hold back the ref. 6200 in favour of the Submariner ref. 6204 which had a slimmer case and a smaller crown. Hans Wilsdorf concluded that the world was not yet ready for a 200 meter waterproof cased big crown Rolex Submariner.

Rolex Ref. 6204 ( Production year: 1953 to 1955) small crown Submariner…

The 6204, here with rare honeycomb dial, split logo and pencil hands…

The Submariner ref. 6204 differed considerably to the ref. 6200. It had a thinner case, smaller crown, started with pencil hands. It still had an older caliber bubble back movement cal.A260 with measuring of 9 3/4 lignes ticking inside. A mix between old and new technology….

Check out this amazing dedicated article about the Rolex Submariner ref 6204 by Glenn Mariconda by following this link..

Ref. 6205 (Production year: 1953 to 1955)

This model was announced almost same time as the ref. 6204. The movement is identical with the ref. 6204. The only difference is that it’s slightly bigger, had a different the dial and the crown. Waterproof efficiency was the same as the ref. 6204. These watches did not really meet the water efficiency required by Rolex and by 1955 were replaced by the ref. 6536 and the ref. 6538 non chronometer versions. Rolex were still at an experimental stage with these Subs and did not hesitate to upgrade them quickly.

Up you see an early example Ref 6205 with pencil hands and below a 6205 with little later long mercedes hour hand…

Note the white second hand with lollipop all at the end…

Ref. 6536 and 6538 (Production year 1955 to 1959)

Both these models had the same new revolutionary innovative Cal.1030 movement in which the rotor wound in both directions. The efficiency of the automatic winding was improved. There were ofcourse some differences in that the ref. 6536 with its slightly thinner case and much smaller crown that was waterproof to 100m and the ref. 6538 was waterproof to 200m. As Rolex always used all their parts we see that some 6538’s have been used as 6536’s. The case was more like a big crown, the case back had crossed out 6538 and re-engraved 6536 inside. Typical a Rolex, never forget to use older parts to stay efficient.

Ref. 6536-1 Chronometer (Production year 1957 to 1960)

These were the first officially chronometer rated Rolex Submariners. Around the end of 1958 the Submariners ref. 6538 and the ref. 6536 were replaced by the ref. 6536-1 and a new ref. 6538. The ref. 6536/1 also had a chronometer rated movement Cal 1030, 25 jewels, adjusted to temperature and 5 positions. The dial was a black gloss, gilt print, with depth in silver, and also note the case was not as thick as the Ref 6536 which it had replaced.

Ref. 6538 Non Chronometer Movement (Production year 1956 to 1959)

Surprisingly, the ref. 6538 kept the same model reference. The new ref. 6538 Submariner had a much heavier case, bezel markings for the first 15 minutes, and a red triangle at the 12 position. It could withstand depths till 200 meter. It had a larger 8 mm brevet crown, and because the name had not yet been registered, the words Brevette (Brevet is not a name but a french word meaning patent). The gloss dial still had gilt printing but now also was printed with the words “officially certified chronometer” under the word Submariner, and powered by a new 1030 Chronometer rated movement. This was the Rolex James Bond was wearing at Dr. No. that helped to make this model iconic!

legendary James Bond shots…

The Ref 6538 with 2 line, non chronometer tested movement and red triangle bezel inlay with dash index till 15 minutes…

Ref. 6538 Chronometer Movement (Production year 1956 to1959)

The main difference between a “Non-Chronometer” and a “Chronometer rated” movement is that the chronometer rated movements must undergo intensive testing to determine if they are within Chronometer tolerances. A Swiss made watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control. The requirements are taking 15 days and nights at five different positions under rapidly changing temperature conditions from -5º C to like 30º C. We see most Official Certified Chronometer Rolex Big crown ref 6538 been delivered to the U.S. as their it became standard in Rolex marketing but let me explain the “chronometer” status a bit better for you to understand:

Chronometer

A reliable watch meant accuracy at all times, including the famous chronometer functionality. When it comes to chronometers, Rolex arguably set the standard in the watch industry. Rolex put their own chronometer movements through a series of tough tests, but it wasn’t until the certification by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, that an officially certified chronometer became an important marketing feature. The COSC is the official Swiss chronometer testing institute. This non-profit organisation is a joint-venture of the five watchmaking cantons of Switzerland (Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Solothurn, Vaud) and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS).

All original Big Crown Ref 6538 – 4 line tropical from 1957 below. Note the red triangle with NON dash to 15 minutes!

Before a watch is certified, it has to go through various tests to test its accuracy. In the earlier chronometer certificate this meant measuring in 5 different positions and different temperatures:

– Dial facing up and crown at 15h00
– Dial facing down
– On the side with pushers
– On the side without pushers
– Warm/cold variation, below 5 degrees and above 30 degrees
– Resistance to magnetism and other outside influences like gravityTiming was done with the aid of atomic clocks and the outcome of time differences for each test had to be within a given bandwidth of precision criteria. Each officially certified COSC chronometer is unique, and identified by a serial number engraved on its movement and a certification number given by the COSC

All original Big Crown Ref 6538 – 4 line tropical from 1958 below. Note the red triangle with dash to 15 minutes!

The Ref 6538 4 line with chronometer tested movement, which is most probably only made for the US market.

Above in original all black and below in faded to a warm tropical brown…

Below an ultra rare version military version with 3-6-9, red depth and OCC which has been found from original owner in South America.

2 of the rarest Submariner come together in my hand. Both Ref 6538, the one of the left specially transformed to UK Military big crown version with fixed bars and special bezel, which we see become the standard once Rolex introduced the Ref 5512/3. This new type of special bezel which was easier to handle also made the watch look bigger, which slowly become fashionable.

Not all models were certified by the COSC. One of the reasons could be that the COSC models were specifically meant for the US market, where a Swiss chronometer certification would certainly benefit sales. The acquired COSC certification was mentioned in two lines on the dial as Officially Certified Chronometer. From approximately 1960 onward, this text was replaced with Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.

Using COSC certification as marketing tool resulted in sometimes peculiar situations, with two almost identical watches and only one bearing the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text on the dial.

Above you see the 2 different chronometer small crown. The first says OCC ( Official Certified Chronometer) and the other says SCOC ( Superlative Chronometer Official Certified)

Ref. 5508 ( Production year 1958 to 1962)

Around 1958, it all changed once again. Rolex was still not satisfied. Two final experimental shoulderless submariners were introduced:- ref. 5508 replacing the ref. 6536 and ref. 5510 replacing the ref. 6538. The new models were equiped with new 1500 series movements, Cal 1530 were used. The ref. 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and existed with and without the inscription of “Chronometer” on the dial. Production year was around 1958 to 1962.

Ref 5508 small crown in 2 line & 4 line. Note the 4 line reads now “Official Certified Superlative Chronometer” there where on earlier models the description was “Official Certified Chronometer”

Ref. 5510 ( Production year 1958)

The ref. 5510 is a strange interim model, has a large 8mm “Brevette” crown. Guaranteed waterproof 200m/660ft, and was only produced for 1 year in about in few hundred numbers. Regular Ref 551o do look like 2 line ref 6538’s. from the outside you can hardly see the differences. The updated movement is one of the only differences.

Rolex wouldn’t be Rolex is they had made a special version from the Ref 5510 as shown below. The dial lay out is having the 3-6-9 index, the Rolex logo is more like we see with Explorers, the bars are fixed meaning the purpose of this Submariner was to be used for militaries. Rumored that this particular one was made for Australian Military in a handful of examples know to date.

Side view of different Rolex sport cases…

Ref 5512 ( Production from 1959)

Tropical brown Ref 5512 with exclamation mark from 1962…

4 line chronometer rated Ref 5512…

The updated Ref 5512 Submariner from 1959 with crown guard to protect the crown even better against waterproofs show us 2 different versions namely the square crown & the pointed crown guards. Both where made around the same period in 1959 in small quantities experimenting with the correct way to add the protection around the crown. Find below a overview of the different crown guards being used by Rolex over the years. From Small Crown, to big crown, square crown, pointed crown guard and finally the rounded crown guard that became standard for many years to follow.

When you compare the square crown with the final rounded crown guards you see they actually are very close in design. Nevertheless Rolex ingenieurs thought that the pointed crown guards where the answer to all waterproof problems but from the feedback they got by experts using them, they changed the design to a much stronger rounded crown guard. Take for example the Submariner 1959 reference 5512, the Big Crown successor. This 5513 was not CSOC certified. A small difference back then, which made the 5513 the slightly cheaper Submariner version, but a huge difference in value nowadays as the 5512 is more sought after by collectors.

The 5512 was using a chronometer manufacture caliber produced by Rolex. Head over to an interesting review that has been written by Beaumont Miller II to see all the Ref 5512 versions and different dial lay out’s by following this link…

Ref 5513 in all it’s varieties….

This model Submariner is to me one of the most exciting references due to the enormous amount of different versions that have been made overt the years. Not only from the huge amount of glossy versus matt dial versions you can make a book, it’s also the subtle difference in print, lay out, 3/6/9, double name, underline to mane a few. Actually there are so many versions this below picture gives you a hint of option being used by Rolex.

Above 5512 and 5513 dials come from the Andrew Shear archive of sold stunners you find over here…

White Swiss printed on top of an already finished dial during transitional period when the lume change from aggressive radium to more safe tritium. As we have seen before, Rolex always wanted to use all their parts and therefor when the new rules came to switch luminous, Rolex used the left over dial and signed them with an underline to show their watchmakers that it was safe to repair them.

Check out an earlier review I made about the “Underline & Exclamation” marks signs used during the transitional period between the switch from radium to tritium luminous in 1964… Check the article by following this link….

4 underline in between the OCC & Underline Serpico & Laino Ref 5512’s…

The 3/6/9 Submariner versions for this reference…

Final versions, glossy Swiss T<25 Submariner 3-6-9 explorer dial…

2 of the rarest Rolex Ref A/6538 Military & 5513 Explorer dialed Submariner…

Comex Submariners :

COMEX is the abbreviation of COMPAGNIE MARITIME D’EXPERTISE’, a company founded in 1961 by engineer Henri Germain Delauze in Marseille France. He combined his technical background with the love for diving and made COMEX a true pioneer of commercial diving on the offshore oil market.

Rolex worked together with COMEX to develop the helium gas escape. This valve, situated at nine o’clock, was designed to prevent damage from a build-up of helium after full-saturation diving. The COMEX model was first issued in 1972 and looks like a regular 5513 Submariner, except for the unique helium escape valve. The references 5513 and 5514 (special Rolex COMEX reference) were used to test this valve, which became available to the public on the 1967 SeaDweller.

Another interesting read is the article I added online about the Single Red Seadweller of which you see above.

COMEX watches were only issued to diving personnel, no watch has ever been sold by a Rolex dealer. This makes these watches even more appealing, besides the extremely small number issued over the years. Here’s an overview of all Submariner Comex.

 5513 non comex logo on the dial
 5513 comex logo
 5514 non logo
 5514 logo
 5514 big numbers
 1680
 16800 Matt
 16660 Gloss small logo
 168000 Small logo
 16610
 Mission and presentation watches
 Comex watches with service replacement dials.

1970-1973 Submariners Reference 5513 with helium valve

1972-1978 Submariners unique for Comex is the Ref: 5514 with valve.

1978-1979 Submariner Ref: 1680, no valve

1982-1986 Submariner Sapphire Ref: 1680 no valve with matt or gloss dial.

1988-1989 Submariner Sapphire Ref: 16800 no valve gloss dial.

1988-1989 Submariners Ref: 168000 no valve with gloss dial.

1986-1997 Submariners Ref:-16610 no valve.

Exotic Submariner ref 16800 Oman Police.

Military Submariners :

Model references are: Big Crowns A/6538, 5510 & 5513, double ref 5513/5517 and 5517.

Below you find a great Military overview written by Daniel Bourn. Follow the link to see his review here…

1970 – MILITARY

Rolex tool watches have always been designed with a specific purpose in mind. Climbing, flying, diving, each model was fitted to endure extreme conditions. The Submariner had already proven indispensable gear for diving, but for the British Ministry of Defence Rolex went even further. Back in the early 1970s, the Military Submariner, nicknamed MilSub, was based on a regular Submariner Reference 5513 but with some significant differences. The first differentiator compared to a regular Submariner, is the large encircled T on the dial, a sign that the markers carried Tritium. The watch had larger, fixed lug bars to fit a NATO strap. Most MilSubs had so-called ‘sword’ hands and although they resemble the hands of an Omega Seamaster, they are a unique set of hands made slightly larger for better legibility purposes. Another unique feature is the bezel with sixty minute markers across the whole insert, compared with the fifteen minute markers on the regular 5513. Finally, the case back carries the Ministry of Defence issue number, always starting with 0552 or W10 the military broad arrow sign and a unit number.

Besides the Reference 5513, a special Reference 5517 was made for the Ministry of Defence (MoD) Special Forces in the second half of the 1970s. Despite common misunderstanding, the 5517 was not only issued to the Navy Special Boat Service, better known as SBS but supplied to both navy and army. Ref 5517 with W10 were issued to the SAS and 5517s starting with 0552 were supplied to naval services SBS and Clearance Divers. Across the board, the known 5517 W10s are better conserved than the 0552 issues, probably due to the line of work the watches were used for.

An estimated 1200 watches of this combined 5513/5517 Reference were issued, and only a few hundred are still in original condition. The rarest are the ref. 5517 based on ref. 5513 cases, so-called double-reference because of both 5513 and 5517 reference numbers. That makes this Military Submariner a highly sought-after collectible.

To make collecting MilSubs even more challenging, they were delivered in batches to the MoD and batches could have slightly different configurations, so only watch comparison within a batch makes sense. What is known from batch analysis, is that the 5513 can have either sword hands or Mercedes hands but the 5517 was only issued with sword hands. The Military Submariner certainly qualifies as holy grail for many collectors, but getting your hands on an original one will require both luck and extensive experience in determining authenticity or buy one from the trusted RPM dealers

All over the world the passion for the vintage Rolex Submariner is alife. Actually it’s one of the most sought after watch model you find. Besides the Daytona, Rolex is all about the Submariner. The many collectors I’ve met always adore the submariner and many I know have become addicted to collect as many as possible. Like Buddy Mike Wood

Here a gold version of the Ref 1680 Submariner with date having the black ‘nipple dial’…At first the rare “Meter first”

And the little later “Feet First” in minty hardly used condition with domed crystal…

Sexy Rolex, specially when the sun is out!

And a meter first Red Submariner with tropical brown and faded bezel insert…

The elusive white gold Submariner Ref 1680, that never made it to production…

If you want to know more about the Ref 1680 Red Submariner, see my classic post on this subject by following this link…

Non minute track & meter first Ref 1680 Submariner…

Meter first brown Red Subvmariner Ref 1680 with tropical brown dial. A phenomenon we see happens with black sport dials around from en 67-till early 70. The black color reacted to the UV light and made the color change to a chocolate brown. Something we see for instance also with the Ref 1665 Seadweller MK2.

The 3 different “Meter First” versions..

Lets end this Submariner story with one of the simple time only beauty…

Vintage Sub versus Modern Sub. In my opinion Rolex “forgot” somehow to finish their modern case with some decent bevels.

Couldn’t end this article beter with following Submariner Big Crown picture, which I still remember the duck tape I used to “glue” them temporary together while I was trying to make a picture

Rolex has created iconic design with the Submariner that withstand any future design influences and will always stay to their roots. Just like the 911 Porsche, read my previous RPReport about why Rolex still doesn’t have a museum by following this link…

Collecting vintage Rolex is all about the Submariner & Daytona. If you want learn more about the other iconic reference Rolex made, the Daytona then follow this link and this link about the evolution of the Oyster Daytona..

Iconic design. The best of 2 worlds come together during Pebble Beach classic car week …

I hope you have enjoyed my attempt to share the evolution of the Rolex Submariner and their many differences. Over the years to come I’ll update this article with more information I come across. When have anything to add, use the contact button below to send me.

Take care,

Philipp Stahl

If you have any questions, you can always reach out to me by using this button…

The post The Rolex Submariner Collectors Story appeared first on Rolex Passion Report.

The Importance of the Vintage Rolex Dial

Philipp — Tue, 14 Sep 2021 08:05:24 +0000

The importance of the vintage Rolex dial in watch collecting.

Modern watch collecting has become all about the condition of the dial. Some watch specialist say that about 80-90% of the value is in the dial nowadays. For outsiders this sounds silly or totally unlogic because a watch is made of lots of spare parts to become an iconic timepiece thats worth collecting. But nothing is more true nowadays, indeed collecting vintage Rolex is focussing on the condition of the dial. In specific about the dial patina. Once you studied my “Rolex Buyers Guide” you know modern watch collecting is about the ‘all over matching patina’. The loose watch parts need to have the same degree of aging, patina. The wear and tear has to be in balance!

As the dial is the center of the watch and catching the eye of the beholder immediately, the dial was always important and needed to show off the brands identity. At the beginning of the 1930-ies when watches became in demand a manufacture didn’t stamp all the watches he made and delivered to his clients, the jeweler. Instead of signing the dial with his own name, he choose to sign it with the jewelers name, which was back then more known to the public then their own watch brand name. Quickly around and after the WW2 this changed and all watches had their brandname on the dial. Although a watch dial is quite inexpensive to produce, you see nowadays that a special dial can multiply the total price easily. Not only the handcrafted cloisonné dials are hugely sought after…

A piece of art are these extremely difficult to manufacture cloisonné dials the ‘stern’ company made for Rolex…

Also simple black dials of merely known white or silver dialed Rolex references are sought after and special. A simple black dial in a ref 2508 Rolex chrono can bring easily 10 times more then usual white / silver version you come across. Rarity is important for any form of collecting…

As collecting vintage Rolex always has some sort of ‘exception’ we see also the contraire of black dials being the ultimate find. Back in the days producing a dial was made by hand and in the beginning of a serie of dial printing, the dial maker Singer test printed the actual text and graphics on a white surface in black. Now it became clearly easy to spot any little mistakes still made by hand drawing lay out the craftsmen had designed. These so called ‘Albino’ prototype dials have been given by watchmaker of Rolex involved in the production. It’s like the birth of a new dial design. So far only a handful are known. Here’s a nicely patinated Ref 6610 Explorer…

Or the following most important historical vintage Rolex, the DeepSea Special with white proto dial, read all about it here….

Somehow collecting watches has become like collecting stamps or paintings. All that matters is a pretty face. Collectors will still buy a vintage Rolex with a great dial in a worn down case as it’s become common knowledge that a dial in great condition is much more rare then a case in great condition. Nowadays restoration ateliers make your case like new after laser welding the scratches and dents. Even your lugs will be fat again having the necessary bevel polished on it. A dial with it’s original luminous is not possible to restore without leaving visible marks. Although I dislike the fact that the most watch value is in the dial, it also makes total sense. Those watches that are hardly been worn, have the greatest dial condition. The condition inside the watch during it’s life determines if the dial changes and if it’s not preserved perfectly it show little spots, dark and greenish luminous, broken lacquer, heavy patinated hands, moisture stains. Off course a certain type of dial needs to sit in the correct serial number & reference but still, finding a donor case is much easier then finding a perfect dial. This although a dial did costs only like €20-30,= they have become the accelerator of the collectors price today.

Now lets discuss the dissecting of a watch dial:

Crown evolution
Luminous
Radioactivity
Tools: Radiation detector/Geiger & UV Lamp
Matching luminous
Condition/moisture meter
Cracked dial
From glossy to matte
Tropical dial
Hands
Indicators: depth, occ/cosc
Various prints: oyster perpetual, magnetic, shock resisting
Dealer stamps
Special orders

The increasing importance of the dial

Never judge a person by their face, common advice when meeting people for the first time. Beauty comes from within, is another popular mantra you’ll hear often when trying to overcome a negative first impression.

Funny enough, when it comes to collecting watches, we seem to do exactly the opposite. There was a time in the 1980s, when complicated movements and techniques were determining the attractiveness of a watch, increasing demand and value amongst watch collectors. Although the dial was an important part, it was not a decisive factor in the purchasing process. Dials were often polished and reprinted as close to the original as possible. A fresh look was more important than 100% originality. Since that Antiquorum auctioned the spectacular “Mondani” vintage Rolex collection, the market changed dramatically. The 309 lots of rare Rolex sold for in total 11 million Swiss Franc, which where like 6.5 million US dollar. Nowadays the front cover lots would bring this amount…

The demand for vintage Rolex tool watches increased pushing prices to new heights. And with it came inevitably the ugly business of counterfeiting. Demand outweighed supply and all of a sudden your Daytona was worth three times. The dial started playing a vital part when searching for a particular model or type. Asia turned into a hub of fake dials and from Italy the Rinaldi dials hit the market. Quality fake dials with unconventional production methods like burying dials in the ground or baking them in an oven to try and get a matching patina appeared. With prices going through the roof, a bit of chemical magic when printing the dial was only a small investment compared to the high revenues in this clandestine business.

High quality FAKE vintage Rolex dials. Read all about it here on RPR…

With the flood of fakes entering the market and the prices soaring at the brink of the millennium, originality became key, especially when it comes to the dial. Internet was both a blessing and a burden. Lots of fakes were offered via online marketplaces but at the same time vintage knowledge improved through online sharing on specialist watch fora. What’s that dot doing there, why is there this small line, why is Swiss mentioned, etc. With an increasing vintage collector’s community, the number of questions rose. You weren’t just buying a Submariner, you were buying a Submariner from the 1950s, with specific reference and features.

Comparing watches and dials via internet greatly improved the knowledge to distinguish original from tampered. But the lucrative counterfeiting industry has been very versatile and the level of detail so impressive, that it slowly starts to become impossible to trust your bare eyes when holding that sought-after vintage watch. There is always something about an original Rolex that fake ones lack and your challenge is to find it. The way the luminous has been added, the print of the dial containing a certain type of lead or radioactive material, etc., it’s all in the details. Check my “Evolution of Rolex Luminous”…

Radiation meter, magnifier and UV-meter prove more and more to be indispensable tools, when visiting fairs and auctions. Not just to detect fakes, but also to verify if a particular watch has been restored, sometimes even using periodically correct parts. Suppose you find a Daytona with one lume dot on the dial missing. Will you resell this as is or will you restore the watch and add a loom dot to try and get more money for the watch? Many will probably opt for the latter option.

There is just too much focus these days on the perfect dial. Who would have thought you can get € 150,000 for a Daytona Paul Newman dial alone these days! Of course it plays a vital part, but I like to think a dial is important because it has been part of a watch, which has been worn and is still in good condition. Not because the original dial has been kept separately somewhere safe and has been added to a vintage watch later on to make it periodically match. The result is often a dial that is in better condition than the rest of the watch. The watch including the barely visible spot at 18h00 but still in original condition should be valued higher than its periodically perfect assembled counterpart. Honest patina tells the true narrative of a watch.

Here’s the story on what I call the ‘Desert Bond’, to illustrate my point of originality over periodically perfect composition afterwards.

A post by a guy called Alex on vintagerolexforum about a Rolex Ref. 6538 OCC triggered my attention. From the pictures I was sent, I could tell this watch has been used heavily but this Submariner Big Crown with 4 lines surely was a stunning beauty. Untouched by service and still exactly as Rolex has sold it back in 1958. The current owner was a fanatic sports diver and assured me he rinsed the watch thoroughly after every dive. The inside of the Oyster case proved to be in perfect shape after all these years of daily usage. Amazing! This is what passion for vintage Rolex is all about.

Above, at the moment I collected this marvelous James Bond Big Crown Ref 6538 – 4 line.. Below after I cleaned the crystal..

Here’s another fine Ref 6538 Big Crown examples, found with perfect handset…

Following find came directly from the first owner with all possible Rolex paperwork. This incredible tropical Rolex Big Crown ref 6538 looks amazing with it’s dark brown faded dial.

Imagine you would find a black stelline dial, black padellone dial or maybe a black Killy dial, each and every one would cost more then 1 million euro now…

Above and below magical black star gilt dials…..

First vintage Rolex that sold for 1 million euro, the Black Oyster Paul Newman alias Oyster Sotto, RCO…

Singer, the dial maker.

We have already seen that the details make all the difference in detecting the original Rolex. And there are lots of details to look out for, the dial in particular. Many watch companies in the early days used to be more an assembly company than a proper manufacture. Rolex made its own watch cases and with the takeover of Aegner, the same could be said about the movements later on. The dial and the hands however were manufactured by external suppliers. Beyeler, Stern (from the Stern family which were overwhelmed by the quartz invasion in the 1970s and became owner of Patek Philippe), Lemmerig and Singer.

Singer has been without a doubt the largest and most important dial-maker of the 20^th century. The century old family business located in Chaux-de-Fonds is one of Switzerland’s last independent dial-makers. This independency made them create dials for just about every serious brand in the business. A few years ago, somebody stumbled upon a Singer Dial maker catalogue from 1968 with a vast collection of prototypes for the DateJust, Submariner and Daytona. These prototypes and designs were presented to Rolex, Omega, Universal and other brands as input for choosing a new dial.

Above, a unique blueish “Cosmograph” prototype dial and the notorious “Yachtmaster” proto dial both fitted in period correct matching cases. Below a gold Singer “Chronograph” prototype dial…

These prototypes are rare and sold at extremely high prices. The question remains if many of these Rolex prototypes actually belong to Rolex. In the early days, similar dials were shipped to several brands and only from the Rolex or Omega mark you could tell the difference. Branding was definitely not as important is it is today. Unfortunately, the Rolex archives are still off limits and my guess is it will be hard for Rolex to show on record all the dial watch combinations that were delivered. They probably have records of serial and reference number destinations, but lack the photo database Patek Philipp for example has built up on dials that were fitted on their watches.

Being the preferred supplier of dials for quite a few watch brands, Singer, or rather the creative department at Singer, has been very influential in the development of the wristwatch. Not only for Rolex, but also for Omega. Monte Carlo and Tudor, to name a few. If Omega went to the moon, Rolex most likely knocked on Singer’s door asking them to come up with something new to avoid a drop in sales and unhappy dealers. Designing a new dial was a cheaper way of creating a complete new watch anyhow.

You clearly notice the ‘prototype’ design that Singer proposed Rolex for the new ‘Yachtmaster’…

But also Omega got this dial design proposed….

Here you see the actual page from the Singer catalogue where this dial was placed to present Omega future possibilities..

Overview dials

Analysing watch dials before the 1950s is relatively easy as there weren’t that many models. Before World War II, English was not yet leading as dial language, so you would see both French and English printed examples. With the Oyster case and automatic movement both patented, came the first iconic models.

Unfinished & rejected Rolex dials…

Chronographs

At the brink of World War II, Rolex introduced the first chronograph wit 30-minute mark and 12-hour totaliser. Below a rare big size Rolex Chronograph ref 2508 with stunning black dial…

Antimagnetic

Besides a functional feature, the term antimagnetic was used as sales trigger in the first half of the 19^th century, much like water resistant. Experiments with antimagnetic watches go back as far as the mid-19^th century, with Vacheron-Constantin as prime pioneers. It wasn’t until 1929, that Tissot assembled the first antimagnetic wristwatch.

The balance wheel inside a watch turns 86,000 times per day and accuracy can be affected if the watch comes close to magnetic fields. These fields were not so abundant as today, with countless mobile devices or even an innocent looking refrigerator magnet. Antimagnetic was predominantly a chronograph feature, where accuracy was even more vital. Perhaps it was also an aesthetic reason to add the antimagnetic print, as the dial space above 18h00 was rather empty.

Here another black dialed ref 2508 but this time with olive shaped pushers instead of the rectangale ones. Not the simple Rolex writing on the dial on both examples.

Here below is a regular much more common white dialed, much less in demand then the rare black version above…

The marvelous Rolex chronograph Rattrapante Ref 4113 with fetched more then 2 million last year. Note the french wording of ‘antimagnetique’ there where english wording are ‘antimagnetic’.

Yet another Rolex chrono with ‘straight’ logo ref 3484. In general I need to add that plenty of ‘fake’ Rolex chrono’s are floating around with a straight logo added on just another anonymous swiss chrono. As always, the devil is in the detail so be very careful!

And a very crisp and rare pink gold big size Ref 3335 with yet again the straight Rolex logo…

And almost the exact same Rolex is this stainless steel Ref 3330 with pink dial and also straight Rolex logo. The difference between the 3330 & 3335 is the way the lugs are shaped. The 3330 has traditional shaped there where the 3335 is angular.

Much more fancy where the Rolex logo on the monobloc Ref 3525’s….

Although very first version also did have the straight Rolex logo….

Below Ref 3525 monobloc is also heaving the “Beyer” signing. A well known Rolex dealer from Zurich who sold many POW ( prisoner of war) during the WWII…

Almost mint examples of the 3525 with very fresh gold and a heavy patinated gold case that turned almost black on one side..

Curved logo on a pink dial with applied index and numerals, telemeter scala both signed ‘swiss made’ and ‘fabrique suisse’..

In 1947, the waterproof chronograph with 12-hour totaliser and triple date was introduced. The Killy DatoCompax…

Above in NOS pinkgold and below in stainless steel with rare steel engraved index and steel handset ref 6036…

Complicated watches

Perhaps unknown by many, Rolex toyed with the idea of making a complicated watch, compared to the rather simple movements produced so far. The steel Split-Seconds Chronograph ref. 4113 was briefly made in 1942 and only 12 examples were produced. This rare and oversized model (44 mm, unique for those days), also known as Rattrapante Chronograph, became the most expensive Rolex ever sold, breaking the $ 2.5 Million mark at an auction.

Every Ref 4113 had a different dial design. Remember that back in the days a dial was not very expensive to produce, therefor with highly complicated examples the owners could choose the dial lay out.

Another complicated watch was the reference 8171, better known as Padellone. It was released in 1949 with a triple moonphase, blue date ring and the crown was not water resistant. The snap back case was manufactured by the same company that supplied Patek Philippe. With 38mm not as big as the Split-Seconds, but still an hefty size considering the era is was made. About 1,000 examples have been produced, which is very little knowing that Rolex produced over 80,000 watches in 1950. This is a highly sought-after watch by many collectors.

2 different toned dial surfaces. The right 8171 is much lighter then the left 6062.

The white surface of these complicated Rolex where called grenée. It’s looks to be porous and very sensitive for moisture…

Yet another close up that shows you how rare it is to find a perfect grenée dial. Up close you see the radium dots are ‘bleeding’ and leaving a little spot around the dot. You also see a little spot next to the middle, mostly done by the watchmaker when he took the hands of the dial. A lot of rare dials have been damaged by careless watchmakers…

What you see is an almost 100 % perfect gold Paul Newman. Except the broken lume dot at 11 o’clock the real pity is that the 3 o’clock lume dot got damaged. We often see this happening when a watchmaker doesn’t put back the movement in the case carefully, he breaks the lume at 3 and often at 9 o’clock. Some watches are known before they for instance go to auction. Earlier pictures show then that the broken lume happened during the examination of the dial and declines the total value dramatically.

Below Paul Newman is having all lume dots perfectly in tact. One would say that the ‘tiffany & co’ print is wrong as it’s added so sloppy but then this was often the case when Tiffany added their name by them selves. If Rolex, or lets say Singer had added the name, this would never happened. The lume on the hands look a bit tired, greenish dark compared to the dial..

Datejust

Appearing first in 1945, the dial of the Datejust was revolutionary due to the first automatic date mechanism in a wristwatch, that showed odd days in black and even days in red. Below you see Sherpa Tenzing’s Rolex Datejust given by Hans Wilsdorf after the conquer of the Mt.Everest.

The date window was located at 15h00 and the watch was fitted with a central second hand. Below the rarely seen first generation Datejust dials where having the ‘honeycomb’ base engraved middle.

Up close the black waffle dialed Ref 6305, note the print is done in gold and in silver…

Another rare Datejust Ref 6605, found from it’s original Military owner who bought it

From the 1950s onwards, things start to get complicated concerning dials. For instance, every model had its own coronet. More watches were produced and each model had its own designer(s).

What to look for in a dial?

To try and help you get a grip on the sheer amount of dial variations out there and be able to distinguish original from tampered, you will find the most important features in separate paragraphs. Of course, as stated before, the most important aspect to look for when eying a vintage watch, is the matching all over patina. That is your first hint if something has been done to the watch to cover up its authenticity and originality.

Luminous

One of the first things you need to check on a vintage Rolex is the luminous, naturally provided it’s a luminous dial watch. This can tell you quite a bit on the history of the watch, including if it has been serviced. Rolex used several materials of luminous on hands, dial and bezel over the years and due to the fact that luminous would deteriorate over time, all parts containing luminous would be replaced during service. Not particularly desirable for vintage collectors, so having the luminous match the reference and production era is crucial when looking for a collectable vintage Rolex.

This “Stelline” Ref 6062 dial is having all new luminous added on the index and also on the hands…

Here’s an chronological overview of the luminous used by Rolex over the years.

< 1953	Early days of Radium luminous on pocket watches, early Oyster cases, and Bubblebacks. Radium was radioactive but little was known about its danger. Radium had self-luminous properties but deterioration happened quickly due to its radioactive substances.
1953 – 1956	Introduction of Submariner Turn-o-Graph, Explorer and GMT Master as part of the tool watch concept, all with Radium luminous
1957 – 1960	Luminous with lower radiation. Dial printing changed from one to two coloured print with enhancement of the lacquer to a more glossy finish
1960 – 1963	Pre-transitional period, adding an exclamation mark to the dial and further radiation lowering due to international regulations.
1963 – 1964	Transitional underline with Rolex switching from Radium to the less radioactive Tritium, that was laminated on the ‘Swiss’ signed dials
1964 – 1967	New generation Tritium luminous on glossy dials. Signing ‘Swiss’’ changed to ‘Swiss – T<25’ & ‘T-Swiss-T’
1967 – 1983	Introduction matte dial with Tritium luminous with various referring luminous signings like ‘T-Swiss-T<25’ or σ T-Swiss-T σ
1983 – 1997	Final period of Tritium luminous with return of the glossy dial and the luminous added to white golden frame
1998 – 2000	Switch to Luminova luminous, a new glow-in-the-dark pigment invented by Japanese Nemoto & Co Ltd and granted US patent in 1995. From 1998 onwards, Nemoto supplied the Swiss watch industry with Luminova
2000 – 2008	Super-Luminova, a slightly improved version of Luminova. Lasts the lifetime of a watch and is used by almost all major watch brands
2008 – …	Introduced first on the SeaDweller, the Rolex patented Cromalight glows blue light and shines much longer in the dark than Super-Luminova. It is now the standard luminous on all new Rolex models.

Radioactivity

As you can see, the earlier models all have a luminous made of Radium. Little was known about radioactivity in those days and workers applying the material suffered devastating consequences. The best known example are the Radium Girls. These were female factory workers who painted Radium on watch dials at the US Radium factory. Sadly, they were kept in the dark about the danger of working with Radium. The Radium Girls case caught a lot of media attention in the US and triggered the right for workers to sue their company for labour abuse.

Radium continued to be used as part of self-luminescent paint in the US into the 1960s, albeit radioactivity levels in watches seem to lower gradually towards the end. In the meantime the US military replaced Radium with Strontium 90, a by-product from a deliberately produced nuclear reaction and therefore radioactive as well.

Panic broke at Rolex in 1959, when the Atomic Energy Commission got involved and questioned the GMT Master 6542, claiming too much Strontium 90 in the Bakelite bezel. Rolex had to recall all 605 GMT Masters to replace the bezel and quickly started damage control campaigns to save their impeccable image.

On top the ad that asks GMT owners to send their watches back to Rolex U.S. and below a receipt of testing the bezel accordantly.

GMT Ref 6542 radium bakelite high Sv readings on a geiger meter….

But the warning apparently came too late for some owners, like naval lieutenant commander Willard Mound, who brought Rolex to court in a five Million US Dollar suit in August 1961. He claimed he, his wife and his five children all suffered physical damage from the radioactive Strontium that had leaked out of the GMT Master he bought in Hong Kong in 1958.

This scare of radioactive watches made Tritium the successor of Strontium as luminous material. According to RC Tritec, supplier of Radium and Tritium to the Swiss watch industry, the switch from Radium to Tritium was in 1962. Rolex replaced Tritium by Luminova from 1998 onwards.

Health note:

Radiation intensity diminishes with time and often the term half-life is used in this context. Half-life is the time after which the radioactive intensity is reduced by half. For Tritium this is 12 years, for Radium it is 1600 years! Even though the original luminous might not glow anymore in the dark, this does not mean there’s no radium radiation. The radium has ‘eaten’ all the zinc sulphide, responsible for the glow when reacting with radium. Therefore, radium watches could still be extremely radioactive but if not inhaled or for some reason swallowed when breaking the watch, it should not be too harmful if not worn regularly.

Radiation detector/Geiger

You might wonder at this point why this elaborate introduction of chemicals. It is interesting stuff if you consider that if the original luminous parts of pre 1960s models are still present on a watch, you can measure it with a radiation detector or Geiger counter. The activity might vary, depending on the size of the hands and the dial as well as the radioactive concentration in the paint. But, nonetheless, it can be a valuable measurement in determining the originality of the luminous and subsequently the complete watch.

Due to international regulations, the change from radium to tritium for luminous watches demanded radioactive emission of less than 25 mCi (the abbreviation for millicurie, a unit of measuring radioactivity). This change is also visible above 1800 on the dial.

Dials with only ‘Swiss’ print contained radium luminous and could have more than 25 mCi emission.

Above and below “Swiss” only signing on the outside of the minute track….

These dials are quite rare because they were never serviced. Any watch containing radium that was handed in for service would always be returned with a new service dial without radium. Below you see a normal radium swiss dial on a rare Ref 6200 which got a “T” added telling us the luminous is tritium…

Rolex worked closely with the Swiss firm Merz + Benteli in Bienne, as key supplier of luminescent material for their watches in those hectic days. The major blow of the GMT call back in the US and the tightened regulations with regards to use of radioactive luminous, Rolex already adapted to the Atomic Energy Commission (ACE) radiation regulations as of 1960. As a transitional measurement until 1963, I strongly believe Rolex added a luminous dot under the 6 marker. This became known as exclamation mark, and was put on dials with ‘Swiss’ print, distinguishing the old stock dials with newly adjusted lower radium radiation from the already issued dials with higher radiation. Was the batch with exclamation mark signing meant for the US market? It will probably stay a mystery as to why exactly an exclamation mark suddenly appeared for a brief period on the dial. There are also 1962 4-line Submariners without an exclamation mark and you will probably only know for sure, if you use a proper Geiger and investigate all watches including original hands and glass. I like to think the exclamation mark was the forerunner for the dials containing an underline, marking the transition from Radium to tritium.

Dial supplier Singer was not willing to discard old dials and Rolex, infamous for its economical reputation, agreed to use the old stock first. It is difficult to pinpoint the exact period but In the brief timeframe from 1963-1964, Rolex added a small hashmark, better known as underline as a transitional marker, with tritium laminated on dials with ‘Swiss’ print. This underline was usually placed at 18h00, but there are also examples with the underline beneath the logo, a sort of ‘upper underline’. Perhaps the print became too crowded near 18h00, hence the small line near the top of the dial. The white coloured underline was added on top of the final lacquer layer afterwards. Typically, only the early models have a dial with underline. I have measured many dials all over the world with an exclamation mark using a Geiger meter and they all displayed a lower dose of radiation than one would expect with radium.

Another transitional underline, where the underline is pushing the SCOC text more downwards. Note the white swiss added on top of the minuet track at 6 o’clock…

2 x rare underline dials. One on the left is a Ref 6538 Big Crown and the right a Ref 6234….

The material and finish of underline dials differs from the dials with an exclamation mark. The latter has a neat print, great finish and proper cappuccino luminous. The underline dials often look like acne, ugly finish with lesser quality luminous with a greenish hue.

It is very hard to find a great underline dial, as not many watches were issued in this configuration. These models are much sought-after due to the unusual print, even though it is often not of the highest quality.

Swiss

As I have mentioned before, due to stricter regulations on radioactivity, Rolex made adjustments to the dial reflecting the decrease in Radium and usage of Tritium instead as luminous material. First an exclamation mark, later followed by an underline on the dial marked the transitional period of radioactive dial components. All these dials carried the word Swiss printed at 18h00.

Swiss = Radium luminous

Swiss + exclamation mark = lower Radium luminous

Swiss + underline = Tritium luminous

During this brief transitional period, roughly between 1960-1964, dials carried different prints of the word Swiss, both in location as well as colour of the print. In the beginning with golden Swiss print, later followed by a white Swiss print.

Then there is also the double Swiss print. As with the underline characteristic, this extremely rare phenomenon can only be seen on early models. The Swiss print has been added twice to the dial, one barely visible at the bottom of the dial in silver and the superjacent legible one in white. Certainly an interesting period, as these dials are quite rare to find.

Above the ‘golden’ SWISS added an top of the already printed minute track. Below a white SWISS added alter.

The first time I encountered an example of the white Swiss print was in Mondani’s book on the Submariner model. It was nowhere mentioned in the text, but it carried a picture of a Ref 5513 with Serpico y Laino print and the white Swiss print at 18h00. To make it more confusing, at the time I also owned a Ref 5513 with underline, carrying a gilt Swiss print on top of the minute print, in below picture on the left…

The unique ‘spidering’ the lacquered surface has one each gilt Rolex dial…By the time Rolex introduced the glossy dial in 1964, the switch from radium to tritium had been completed. To highlight the change, the ‘Swiss’ print was replaced by ‘Swiss T-25’ to point that radiation was less than 25 millicurie (mCi). At the same time, the addition ‘T Swiss T’ was printed on dials, signifying radioactivity of less than 7,5 mCi.

Here’s where your Geiger counter really comes in handy. A regular commercial model costs € 150-200 and is an indispensable tool if you are interested in pre-1964 models. Use a Geiger to measure and interpret radioactive radium or tritium emission on vintage Rolex watches with luminous dials. This will tell you what happened to the watch if you compare it to its overall condition.

To illustrate, here are an example. This Big Crown is having a 4.58 mSv radiation. Almost 20 times higher then tritium radiation.

Below you see the swiss radium Stelline is hardly having any radiation… For a swiss dialed Rolex that means there’s no radium luminous left on the dial as otherwise the geiger would go mad and show a high result, like above of almost 5 MsV and not 0.20MsV, which is even less then tritium 0.25 MsV that became standard from 1964 onwards.

Yet another missing radium on the dial. Although the lume dots seems to look nice on this white honeycomb Tog ref 6202 dial, to was not born their when it left the Rolex factory in 1953. Instead an ‘dial restorer’ took off the radium lume and added new, non radioactive, luminous dots…

Note on measuring:

A Geiger counter measures in micro sievert (μSv), the dose of radiation absorbed by your body per hour. This is designed to be a good understanding of the health risks of being exposed to radiation – and what a “healthy” dose might be. The standard measurement is in sievert – 1 sievert is about 5.5% chance of developing cancer as a result of the exposure, and continuous exposure to this dose is likely to lead to radiation poisoning and death. One Sievert is the maximum allowed radiation exposure for NASA astronauts over their career. In conversion, one micro sievert (μSv) equals 0.000001 sievert (Sv). To put things in perspective, the global average background radiation humans are exposed to is 0.27 μSv, a banana’s radiation is 0.098 μSv.

Sievert is not the same as millicurie (mCi), the measurement of activity. Activity is how radioactive something is – how much it is decaying in a given period of time – it is measured nowadays in Becquereles (Bq).

UV lamp

Another handy tool for measuring radium and tritium is an UV lamp. The ultraviolet radiation causes the radium or tritium to glow. The impact of the ultraviolet lamp will let the glow continue to shine for several minutes. Below the UV light is making a reaction with the already greenish 6 o’clock marker we see on early sports Rolex..

Yet another example from lighting up original luminous. This time it’s tritium an a 1972 Rolex Daytona Oyster Paul Newman..

And here an example that shows you damaged luminous dots and non luminous hands…

Matching luminous

As I mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, what were are looking for is matching luminous of dial and hands. They both should be in the same colour, fluffy and without damage. Collectors always try to find the impossible, here are some examples of Daytona’s dials still having all their little luminous dots next the markers.

Perfectly in balance..

The puffy luminous is still intact on this Milgauss Ref 1019…

Even a hardcore used Military Rolex can have matching luminous. The big advantage of collecting vintage Rolex is the fact that the cases where waterproof oysters, hardly any moisture could enter the inside…

A tool watch pur sang is the Rolex Comex which has been heavily used by deep sea divers. Still great examples have perfect lume!

Fresh barn find as people like to call an all original untouched discovery..

Now lets have a better look. For this I opened the fron by removing the bezel and the crystal and there it is, the naked dial…

Up close and naked, a glossy gilt Rolex small crown Submariner dial with radium lume. Note the greenish 6 o’clock marker.

Next is a naked Paul Newman MK1 dial in perfect all over matching condition…

The next Paul Newman looks nice and certainly is. Nevertheless the value is lower because all lume dots have been renewed during a earlier service. The proportion of the dots are incorrect and sloppy..

Another feature worth checking is the correct colour of the luminous. On pre-1964 watches with radium the colour is more ‘cappuccino’, on watches with tritium the colour is lighter, more yellowish cream.

Original radium luminous…

compared to original tritium luminous, which is much lighter then the previous radium luminous…

Over the years, the luminous on many watches has been replaced during service, due to various reasons. The watch was damaged by water, radium had ‘eaten’ the luminescent paint, destroying the glow in the dark feature or the glowing effect of the paint with tritium was gone as its activity halves after twelve years. Once new luminous was added, it becomes clear that the all over patina is not matching anymore. The luminous looks newer than the rest of the patina, the colour of the hands is different than the markers or the expected radiation is much less than expected. All signs that something happened to the watch.

Here are some examples of matching and non-matching luminous. Below clearly the hands don’t match the dial…

This rare Solo Daytona is not really having matching hands with the luminous on the dial. Probably changed during a service..

This barn find is having matching all over patina… besides the lume is the same, you see the watch has equally used parts.

The hands have a darker tone then the dial and look to clean…

Condition Meter

Very important when looking at luminous: use a magnifier and zoom in. Although any Rolex was meant to be waterproof since the Oyster case, humidity can still enter a watch though damaged glass or winding crown, harming the front of the watch but also the movement. Therefore, besides serving as radiation source, luminous also acts as a sort of condition meter to gauge the possible damage through condensation that occurred inside a vintage Rolex.

The great picture Pucci Papaleo made from the totally destroyed Daytona dial made it look like another planet. Below the moisture has ‘eaten’ the edge of the dial and also left some serious holes through the paint and lacquer…

Water damage because of condensation in watches with radium will change the luminous colour greenish….

Precision movement, chronometer tested, waterproof and shielded against dust and a unique waterproof winding crown were the unique selling points during 1930s until 1950s, making models like the Daydate and Datejust extremely popular. From the 1950s onwards, Rolex had to come up with something new to raise turnover, instead of just focussing on technical improvements for the Daydate and Datejust. Rolex started creating watches for different purposes and audiences, marking the birth of the tool – sports watch concept. For the vast majority of Rolex collectors, this era is by far the most interesting with the introduction of the Turn-O-Graph, Explorer, Submariner and later on the legendary Big Crown.

One of the characteristics of these early sports watches is the one colour dial with a lacquer finish that lacks the shiny effect you see on later examples. Dust from luminous that was damaged by radium would leave small stains on the dial, especially around the markers with the radium paint. Here’s an example of such an early tainted Submariner ref. 6200. Note the transparent paste on the hands that was added to make the phosphorescent paint stick.

Besides the paste to make the luminous stick, Rolex added the phosphorescent paint on a white coloured surrounds. This was a meticulous job and so well done that you will never see paint outside the surrounds of the markers, if done by Rolex. A dial with the luminous larger than the surrounds it has been added to, is most likely a job done during service to replace the luminous. The Geiger counter cannot always provide 100% proof if a luminous has been replaced, because clever specialists use old radium to redo the luminous. Therefore, always take a very close look at how the luminous was added to the dial.

Above you see the lume has lost it’s volume. The top layer has been scratched off most probably because it was having some dark stains. Then the glossy dial surface was cleaned making the surface matt. Obviously the steel hands don’t match either. Below an all honest not so perfect early sports Rolex. This Ref 6538 is also like the double red GMT above from 1956. You see the aggressive radium stains left eating the previous glossy lacquer eating away. Nevertheless the lume dots are in tact and it’s still has it’s original patina.

Cracked dial

Later models were fitted with glossy dials. The patina of the dials provides an unique feature, that is not easy visible. You will have to tilt the watch so the dial catches light in a certain angle, before the crack become visible. What exactly causes these cracks is hard to tell. My guess is, these dials have been stored in a dry place for a long time and with usage the surface started cracking, resulting in this rather bizarre dial pattern.

Gilt

Gilt is gold. Any dial with gold lettering can be called a gilt dial. At least, that is the simple answer. As with most details when it comes to Rolex, there is some debate on what makes a dial true gilt. A gilt dial contains a galvanically applied layer which truly refines the dial. There is much behind the scenes chemistry going on, but what it comes down to is that a black layer is coated to the dial using a galvanic process. This coating covers everything, except the golden lettering which is printed in reverse under the coating to make it really stand out. A transparent varnish on top of the galvanic layer protects the dial against corrosion and aging and gives the dial the typical glossy finish. Any silver additions like underline or depth meters are printed on top of the varnish.

This rather complex and time consuming process of creating a dial makes a glossy black dial with gilt lettering the only true gilt dial. Therefore, a matte dial with gilt is just that, a matte dial with gilt.

From this 2D perspective the following dial looks to be perfect. Incredible rare but something is missing… The depth!

Galvanic dials show you a certain depth in the print, something these new fake dials don’t have. Besides that, everybody who has handled a gilt dial knows that the glossy lacquered surface is having some small spiders, which this dial is missing as well…

Note the little lines in the lacquer around the radium lume dots of an all original Rolex Big Crown…

Or the radium leaves some stains on the dial…

But the most important feature is the fact that gilt dials have been printed in phases. You see in below examples clearly that the common text: Submariner and 200M = 660 FT is printed below the finished lacquer, there where the additional chronometer SCOC text was printed on top of the finished dial surface. This depth is an important feature of the gilt dials.

From glossy to matte

Around 1964/1965, the looks of the dial changed drastically. Gold was no longer fashionable on dials and the shiny black dial with golden print and minute track disappeared slowly and by the end of 1967 no shiny dials were issued anymore for any model. The matte dial with white print was the new star and its design made the dial actually appear larger. Fashion, cheaper to produce because of higher volumes or was Rolex triggered by user feedback on legibility? Perhaps the supplier changed the dial because by legislation certain paint components were forbidden due to toxic substances, as ‘John Fatboy ’ stumbled upon through his extensive research. Probably, all of the above, but the fact is this shift in design marked one of the greatest periods in dial evolution.

In the bright sun you see the matt dial on the left with white print next to the glossy dial with gold print setting a new era.

Tropical

Any dial that is affected by fading colours is called tropical these days. It would be better to distinguish between true tropical dials and near tropical dials. What makes a dial truly tropical? First of all, it is a dial that has been well preserved inside the case, most likely an Oyster case. The presence of humidity inside the watch, combined with the presence of UV light and a certain storage temperature caused a chemical reaction of the paint underneath the varnish.

It does not happen to all watches under given circumstances. You don’t see tropical dials before 1953, followed by two periods in which tropical dials occurred: From 1958 – 1962

Yet another 1958 tropical Big Crown Submariner which has even become more brown then the above example…

Here we see a rare Military Ref 5510 tropical Big Crown with rarely seen 3-6-9 dial…

Above a 1958 tropical Big Crown Ref 5510 Military with fixed bars having perfect luminous, below a brown Ref 6200 Big Crown.

Below a 1962 tropical Ref 5512 Submariner with exclamation mark.

A 1964 underline swiss tropical Ref 6234 dial…

Gilt Submariner Ref 5513 from 1964 which is having an interesting discoloring…

End 1960s to beginning 1970s, here an MK2 tropical Sea Dweller Ref 1665 mk2 thin case…

Or a single red meter first that became tropical…

Up close of another 2.29x.xxx serial Red Sub that became tropical brown…

From the end of the 60-ies is this Ref 6263 with tropical brown sub dials…

A perfect example of a well conserved Paul Newman with brown sub-dials!..

With the shift from glossy to matte dials with different print, the tropical effect disappeared permanently. Only certain references with specific serial numbers can have a tropical dial. For example, Seadwellers with serial numbers 1,900,000-2,000,000 (1968/1969/1970), or Submariners, Explorers and GMT Master from the same period, all fitted with dials from the same supplier.

The next Oyster Paul Newman with light brown minute track achieved almost € 1 million during last Phillips Watch Sale…

Another examples of an Oyster Paul Newman with brown minute track

So far the most expensive tropical Rolex, the RCO with fetched more then 2 million during the same Phillips auction in Geneva.

Clearly, the following tropical from 1958 below has been assembled. The hands do not match the dial, the hands should have been golden instead of steel being from 1958, minute hand second hand are too short. Case looks really polished. The color of the luminous doesn’t match at all. The dots are ‘scrubbed’ loosing their volume.

The following ‘tropical’ is honestly not a real tropical but more a damaged dial. Why? because all the luminous dots have been renewed. Besides that you clearly see the water stain on the dial. Often the market uses the word tropical wrongly. A correct tropical has perfect original lume dots and a dial that changed due to heavy UV light and long dark storage. The problem is if a dial has had a moisture problem and water condense entered the case in due time the dial changes color as well, often leaving stains as you see in below example. One needs to be very careful buying a tropical if the luminous is not original anymore. The luminous material is also called the “condition meter” or ” moisture meter” from what happened inside the case during its life.

Conclusion: This watch has been prepared for auction to reach a high estimate, which didn’t work out as collectors are well aware what to look for before they spend big money on a tropical submariner.

Above you see a MK2, which often fade and become tropical brown, next to a updated later mk3, which never fade to brown. As always with collecting vintage Rolex, there are many exceptions. Find below a DRSD MK2 which stayed totally black!

How the process of a dial becoming tropical actually works is still unknown. There has been much debate over (re)appearing tropical phenomenon and the general consensus is:

Abundance of UV light from sunlight.
Varnish still in good condition.
Stored in the dark, e.g. vault, for a considerable period of time. No owner of a tropical watch ever stated the dial coloured brown from wearing it.

The discolouring would be accelerated if the watch had water damage and the varnish had broken. With a true tropical, the luminous is still intact and not damaged by water. As we have seen previously, the damaged luminous was often replaced taking away the characteristic cappuccino look. It could also be, only part of the luminous has been removed, to get rid of the small black condensation dots. Again, the key to spot a correct tropical is to check the radiation and closely look if the luminous is still fresh and puffy.

With above and below you’ll note that the luminous is all intact and puffy and matching with the hands..

The price for a near tropical, in other words not a true tropical, are still quite high. Of course, it remains a beautiful watch but why pay € 40-50,000 for a dial that has brown color but the all over patina is not matching? It would seem better to pay double the amount to get you an all original tropical.

Dial indicators

Rolex print

Every new Rolex reads Oyster Perpetual on the dial. Both indicators symbolize the core of Rolex success of waterproofness and self-winding mechanism and as such can be considered part of the Rolex logo. Naturally, this wasn’t always the case. The early dials carry only the Rolex name print, the crown was added at a later stage, followed by Oyster and finally Perpetual. Beware that many watches have been issued blank, mainly because dial suppliers had several watch brands in their customer portfolio. Therefore, it is crucial to check of the Rolex print has been added below the lacquer layer instead of added later on.

You see the ‘Submariner’ text above is more like embossed into the dial (galvanic dial print technique) there where the white depth rate is print don top of the finished dial. The dial maker was using the same dials that where partly printed already for the small and the big crown, except the depth rate, this got added to 100m = 330ft for the small crown or as above, 200m=660ft also for the first Ref 5512’s. Again, you see the usual print embossed there where the dealer name Serpico Y Laino is added on top of the finished dial..

Rolex put more emphasis on chronometer and precision with other watches. The latter indicator applied to watches that were not chronometer tested. You will find this term mainly on steel Rolex, as golden watches often were chronometers.

OCC/COSC

The COSC is the official Swiss chronometer testing institute. Each officially certified COSC chronometer is unique, and identified by a serial number engraved on its movement and a certification number given by the COSC. The acquired COSC certification was mentioned in two lines on the dial as Officially Certified Chronometer. From around 1960 onward, this text was replaced with Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.

And here some later SCOC = Superlative Chronometer Official Certified

Dealer stamp

It was not unusual for dealers to have their stock of Rolex watches personalized with their own dealer name. Bubblebacks in particular are famous for it. There are three major dealers, whose names can often be found on vintage dials: Tiffany & Co, Serpico y Laino, Joyería Riviera and Linz from Texas, U.S.

Tiffany & Co was founded in the first half of the 19^th century and now world famous jeweller. There is not much recorded history available, but dials with Tiffany & Co print probably go back to as far as the 1950s and can be found on practically every sports model out there.

Above the Ref 6263 that’s coming up for sale at Phillips. Below a selection of Tiffany & Co from Pucci Papaleo…

Then this so far unique Tiffany & Co Submariner Big Crown came for sale at Christie’s NY. The whole top printing was newly done so instead of the usual Rolex print we see this new Tiffany print. The only known text is the depth rate of 200m = 660 ft…

The succes of vintage Rolex also has a dark side. For years many the “Tiffany & Co” stamp got added to a dial to make it more sellable and valuable. Find below an GMT ref 1675 before it got a fake Tiffany & Co stamp added to the dial….

And afterwards included the fake Tiffany & Co print. Apparently the forgers became so lazy they didn’t swap the bezel of to cover up the donor watch. Happily there are always collectors watching and comparing in the market and mention them on a special Rolex forum. Here you can read the article on italian O&P…

Another one…before the dial was clean, no Tiffany & Co. The 2 x red arrows show a unique pitting this dial has…

Now check the next picture, same 2 pitting at the edge of the dial, marked by the 2 arrows but now with Tiffany & Co.

Vicente Laino and Leopoldo Serpico, two Italians in Venezuela. Serpico ran a small watch shop called Joyería Serpico, where Laino joined him to practice his goldsmith skills. They sealed a deal with Rolex to become the sole authorized dealer of their watches in Venezuela, marking the birth of Serpico y Laino. The shop became famous for selling the best European manufacture watches in South America until it closed in 1966. Many watches originated between 1925 and 1966, carry the ‘Serpico y Laino’ printed on the dial or the initials ‘SYL’ stamped in the case back. Read the SYL story on RPR here….

Here below you find an original versus fake Serpico Y Laino printing on the dial…

The third dealer worth mentioning is Joyería Riviera from Cuba, nicknamed the Tiffany’s of Havana. Founded in 1923, they became Rolex authorized dealer for Cuba. Watch dials were printed with their name during the 1940s and 1950s, The revolution in 1960 made the family close shop and move to Puerto Rico. Read all about this Rolex dealer on RPR….

Above a very rare Rolex Pulsation Chrono signed Joyeria Riviera and below a elegant steel Bubbleback with signed black dial.

Last but not least, the Texan dealer Linz. Back in the days this U.S. rolex dealer was the biggest seller of new Rolex watches and on some examples he added his name. Very typical logo with the N printed backwards. So far not many examples have been found, we know of 2 examples of Paul Newman, one in white which is being offered by Phillips and one in black in private collection.

Special Order Dials

Further more Rolex has created some special order dials, mainly for the middle east. Like the UAE dials and the Oman & Qaboos dials that got fitted in a special signed Rolex case. I will add some more example. You can check out the detailed report about the Rolex Oman in depth story over here…

To start with an almost unnatural color of patina which is at a NOS (New Old Stock) Sea Dweller Qaboos which was never worn and stored in a dark place…

Never ever used Rolex Qaboos Cosmograph, sold and signed on the case back by Asprey of Bondstreet in London..

UAE Daytona & Qaboos Cosmograph are both using a totally different print cliché..

Last but not the least Here an discovery of a special dial made for Pan Am. In close up you notice the Rolex & Oyster printing is just like the Qaboos & Oman printing all the way up, making room for the special logo. In this case it’s the blue Pan Am logo…

Read all about the Pan Am Daytona here on RPR….

Conclusion

The vintage world of Rolex is an very complex one. If you’re not aware about all different possibilities you will certainly have to reread this article over and over again. The little secrets a dial tells you is extraordinary. From examining the dial up close you can tell what happened inside a watch, even if this is 50-60-70 years ago. The dial has indeed become the centerpiece of modern collecting. Everything around the dial should match the condition of the dial and hands. Only then it’s worth collecting. With this I don’t mean to say that only the rarest and best possible condition you have to buy, not at all! As long as all the loose parts match perfectly together you’ve a great vintage Rolex. If this is a 1016 explorer I, a 1680 red sub or a day date, it doesn’t matter. Buy the best possible condition your budget allows you to. As long as you’ve teach your eyes to spot imperfections and focus on matching originality of all the watch parts, you’re safe. Believe me, future collecting will be al about correct and honest patina!

I do hope you’ve enjoyed my article. If you still have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact me….

Enjoy wearing your vintage Rolex!

Cheers, Philipp Stahl

The post The Importance of the Vintage Rolex Dial appeared first on Rolex Passion Report.

The Evolution of Rolex Luminous.

Philipp — Mon, 13 Sep 2021 23:03:20 +0000

As you could have read earlier in my vintage Rolex Buyers Guide, the luminous in general I see as a “Moisture Meter” or more specific, a “Condition Meter” of which you can determine what has happened inside a Rolex during it’s life. As long as you don’t inhale early radium pre 1953, there’s no need to panic, you can wear your vintage Rolex as often as you want, even James Bond knows… At first I like to start with the overview of the approximate date of luminous used by the Rolex Company:

Prior – 1953, The early age of Rolex luminous, used on their pocket watches, early oyster cases, bubble backs and radiomir Panerai’s.
1953 – 1956, When Rolex introduced the world their sports / utility / tool watch concept with radium Submariner, TOG, Explorer & GMT Master.
1957 – 1960, When Rolex lowered radiation and chanced dial printing from 1 to 2 colored print and enhanced the lacquer to a more glossy variant.
1960 – 1963, The pre ‘Transitional” period with “Exclamation” mark and due to the starting international regulation, again less radioactive luminous.
1963 – 1964, “Transitional” underline of which Rolex switched from Radium to Trtium, delivered dials are “swiss” signed but laminated with tritium.
1964 – 1967, The new generation tritium luminous got added on glossy dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”.
1967 – 1983, The matte dial with tritium luminous got introduced by Rolex. We see tritium signings variations like T Swiss T<25 or σ T-Swiss-T σ.
1983 – 1997, The last era of the tritium dials when the glossy dial surface came back, now the luminous was added in a added white gold surround.
1998- 2000, LumiNova was invented in 1993 and patented in 1995; Nemoto & Co. Ltd. was contracted in 1998 to provide LumiNova to Switzerland.
2000 – 2008, Super Luminova, a improved version of Luminova, a material that has the same properties as tritium but is not radioactive.
2008 – now, Chroma Light, the new blue-ish colored Super Luminova thats been in use since Rolex patented it.

Monobloc Ref 3525 from mid 1930’ies…

But for most Rolex collectors under us, the period that started at collecting Rolex is from 1953, the most interesting time phrases for aficionado’s. The Turn O Graph Ref. 6202, Submariner Ref. 6204 & 6205 and later the Big Crown Ref. 6200 are the beginning of the since then ever lasting legendary tool – sports watch concept.. What we see in above and in below pictures are first generation Rolex Sports models. In many cases the radium luminous has turned greenish when moisture – condense came into the case as you can see above. In below Submariner ref 6200 you can clearly see that the radium dust is covered over the dial, mostly around the radium plots. One of the characteristics of these early sport dials is the fact the they have a 1 color print and a lacquer finish thats not as shinny as we see in later examples. The radium dust, one never must inhale, leave small stains on the surface of the dial. In below picture you can also clearly see the transparant paste in the hands that was added before the radium luminous came on top. 2 x Submariner Big Crown but both very different in detail. First is a 1954 Ref 6200 with later added “Submariner” at 6 O’clock, secondly we see a 1958 Ref 6538 with 4 line dial, besides the depth rate and Submariner, this version has a OCC ( Official Certified Chronometer ) movement. Up close a early Ref 6204 with black “Honeycomb” dial, split logo ( Submariner & Perpetual) pencil hands and slightly visible, the OCC sign at 6 o’clock. The radium dust has slightly eaten the dial surface. The missing luminous in the second hand has been spread around the dial. Moisture made the pencil hands inside turned dark as well as the plots on the dial greenish. Next we see a first generation Big Crown Ref. 6538. You notice that the depth rate ( 200M = 660Ft ) and the Submariner print are both in 1 color! Another typical detail we see is the 6 o’clock marker being more bright then the rest of the radium plots. Most probably this marker is a special mix of radium for easier underwater readability. Detail comparison: Left and middle version are both early 6538’s with 1 color print, there where the right one is having a 2 color print ( for depth rate & OCC) Next to each other, second and first generation Rolex Big Crown’s. Clearly visible is the different finish that covers the dials, there where the later left one is all shinny and glossy is the right one of first generation. A lot of research I’ve done on these Submariner Big Crown’s and my standard procedure was to measure the dial with a geiger meter. From the results I can inform you that the radiation between first & second generation 6538’s is significant, depending on the condition of the luminous of as well the dial and hands, the later glossy versions where at least 5 times less radio active, hence the better condition you find them now. Close up of a fully in tact radium 6 o’clock Explorer ref 6350 marker from 1953… Comparison: You will notice that the graphic chanced over the years with the later version we see on the right. The Submariner text has become more modern. A typical detail you hardly see at any pictures on the internet is the unique patina of the glossy dial surface. The to each glossy Rolex dial unique tiny cracks are only visible when you play with the light. Furthermore we see that the top part of the Rolex print is punched in the dial and as well the ‘submariner print. The depth rating and OCC are added later, on top of the finished lacquer, making it possible for Rolex to print 1 dial and later modify it for their needs. Not many Rolex collectors are aware about the fact that the Big Crown & Small Crown versions are having the same graphics. Below you see that at this pre stamped the depth rating for small crown was used and added over the already finished lac. First Rolex service dial? (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study). Another interesting detail is the white surface underneath the radium plots that was added to the dial so the luminous could stick on easily. Rolex luminous is always between the gold surroundings and hardly ever will go over it, something you see with later resumed dials a lot, the luminous material is often bigger then the white plot.

Find below the Zeller Stylograph from the luminous company RC Tritec used for applying the luminous on the dial and hands.

Here’s a very interesting article ( sorry only in German) about the history of luminous, following the link below…

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There it says that Blancpain was using for a wide audience the alternative to radium, Promethium 147 or Carbon 14 on their for their Fifty Fathom with a safe sign recognizable on the dial. At 5 o’clock it says T= tritium < 25 Micro Curie. Foto credit: Dino from Cars and Watches

Also revolutionary was the moisture meter or humidity indicator. Originally, the indicators had a lower blue part that would change to pink once moisture seeped into the watch.

Both parts have become almost equally pink, moisture has touched the indicator. When you look closely, you will notice a rare feature vintage Rolex have as well in transitional period of radium to tritium; a double swiss printing at 6 o’clock….

Back then luminous paint composition was more or less a trade secret and although I’ve contacted RC Tritec and Merz + Benteli and they where using so called “Setz-atelier” privat persons who where adding the luminous by hand on the dial at home. Many of those private working in the lume industry where living in Biel. Even in 2014 the whole radiation issue is still hot with many houses being radioactive after all those years. Read article in Swiss BauWelt magazine here…

Below a Zeller Stylograph, the tool to apple the luminous to the dial by hand…

So if moisture enters the case, it will damage the surface and leave little black stains on the lume dots, as you can see below. Again, the luminous on the dial and hands, are the condition meter showing you what happened over the years with the watch. Moisture and condens will be sucked up by the luminous and make it chance color to dark and ugly, then it will destroy the top layer of the dial.

From the front hardly visible but once you turn the dial slightly you notice the infrastructure of cracks. My believe is that the dials have been stored for a long time at a dry place and that this has cracked the surface… Yet another example of cracked surface. This particular SCOC small crown 5508 is almost all over damaged and the grooves have become very deep… And another cracked one. In both 3 examples we see that the hands have also been chanced during a service by Rolex to later smaller ones, meaning that all 3 of them had a water problem back in the days and the original radium hands where chanced to later tritium ones, hence the different in color of the luminous.

See below a broken finish that flakes…

While analyzing the below 2 photo’s now you notice that the hands do NOT match the rest of the color of the luminous, thus something has happened afterwards before sit went to auction. Are these the original hands and has the dial been swapped perhaps?

Below you can see pictures of the radium investigation I made on many different sport Rolex and other watches during the recent years. I specifically was always interested to see the rate of a untouched original owners Rolex as with them we knew nothing has been done to chance the look / originality. Below a early Panerai Radiomir ref 3646, below measurements from the back..

And up front it’s much higher. This ref 3646 is still in original untouched condition with it’s original crackle crystal..

A 1953 Rolex ref 6202 in untouched original condition showing us a high radium dial measurements…

A Rolex ref 6542 up front, untouched 1958 example with bakelite radium bezel..

The geiger went really crazy on the early Panerai tools, below a high reading on a compass..

And on a original untouched Panerai depth meter…

From the Panerai book of Volker some more geiger results. Another tip besides using a geiger meter is using ultra violet light to determine the presence of radium.. The bakelite bezel on the GMT Master ref 6542 was highly radio active. This has become a huge issue in Rolex past when a client bought his Rolex in the US and weaned to ship it out to Singapore, the government noticed the extreme radiation and started a investigation against Rolex in the US. All 600 plus examples that where sold in the US had to be tested on the presence of strontium 90. Below you see a official Rolex document that states that the 6542 GMT master has been tested and no violence of AEC regulations. (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

605 x Rolex GMT Masters Ref 6542’s where recalled in the US after regulation found out that the bezel was way to radioactive as you can read below….

Even more interesting is this old newspapers article saying that Rolex responded that the Atomic Energy Commission found “Only one 100 mens watch models”. Furthermore we can conclude that the 6542 wasn’t a commercial hit when Rolex said that the 605 GMT’s that had to be recalled where ” sold in a very small quantity due to the fact that it was a special purpose model”…

Above a close up of the bakelite GMT bezel and below the GMT Master 6542 of legendary explorer next to Jacques Piccard Deepest dive, Lt. Don Walsh..

You see the bezel lights up, there where the dial is not reacting to the ultra violet light. Meaning the bezel is radium and the dial has been relumed with non radioactive material… Front radiation of a Big Crown 6538 and below the bright lightning 6 o’clock marker of a 5508 small crown under ultra violet light. The bright 6 o’clock marker was most probably done by Rolex designers to help divers read the dial in the dark quickly and clearly. The luminous dot that was added on the bezel and used for timing the dive is not logically always on the 12 o’clock spot so to help the visuality Rolex chanced the luminous of the 6 o’clock marker to a more greenish mixture is my consensus. Below you see a early Submariner which has been resumed with luminous. Not always will the Geiger meter give you 100 % proof as nowadays specialist are using old radium to relume a dial. But if you look closely you will see that the luminous is not perfectly added within the round plots, clearly not a Rolex job. Geiger alert on first generation Submariner… Big Crown 6538 forms second generation, produced in 1958 with glossy gilt dial and radium luminous… Original condition of a rare 369 Submariner version when it was discovered. You see the stains of oxidation on the surface, something that can easily be cleaned.. Radium swiss Rolex ref 6234 with original luminous. All plots are perfectly shaped and color on the dial is matching the luminous of the hands, first owner find.. The same we see in following examples, a rare waffle diales Datejust with radium luminous on dial and hands… A second generation Rolex small crown what got serviced early 60-ies but except the bezel insert, still has it’s original dial and gilt hands… A early Big Crown ref 6538 minute track service dial with tritium ( Swiss – T<25 ) Different coronet and print technique.. A 1958 Rolex Small Crown Submariner Ref 5508 with it’s original bezel and spidered tropical dial. We see the humidity in the hands turned a bit green.

A ‘burned’ Big Crown dial that due to humidity, dry storage and lot’s of UV light chanced color and cracked in the surface.. Below you see how the moisture the radium chanced to green spots around the luminous dots on the dial. Nobody would really care about this face unless you see the backside… To Sir E. Hillary from Rolex Bosecks, Calcutta Last version of the Big Crown dial, the luminous becomes less aggressive and much brighter then we have seen before. Also the coronet is different then the typical small & big crown version we are used to. It’s more like the early 1959 Submariner 5512 ‘ thin fingers’ coronet.. Same much brighter almost greenish colored luminous we see on the last version of the small crown, here below 5508 SCOC 4 liner… Around 1962 we see the exclamation mark, the little extra dot at 6 o’clock added on top of the dial is most probably a first sign of the dial maker to show Rolex (US – Canada?) clients that radiation has been adjusted to a lower degree.. Below you see a comparison of first generation (1953-1956) first 2, second generation ( 1957-1960) and third generation ( 1960-1962) on the far left The pre transitional period shows us brighter luminous, this particular small crown Ref 5508 is having a “exclamation mark” we see around 1962 (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

Here a perfect example of 1959-1960 luminous on a tropical ref 5512 chapter ring…

A transitional “Underline” which has been placed between Submariner & SCOC and a “White Swiss” added on top of the track. We see that the surface is slightly speckled, something thats more usual then unusual with these transitional dials. Seems like the quality was not perfect. A older dial plate used for a newer case design perhaps? Close up of the “White Swiss” added on top of the track..(follow the link to more vintage Rolex study) Fully gloss Ref 6234 chronograph dial where the “Underline” & “Anti-Magnetic” is added later. Obviously a old style dial design that got luminated with tritium. Side view of a 5512 SCOC “Underline dial with a close up of the tritium plots. We see they are puffy and also the white disc underneath are partly visible. The underline and SCOC text is added later on top of the lacquer, the rest of the print is punched into the dial, laying deeper.. Yet another stunning transitional Sports Rolex, a 5512 minute track with underline, slightly earlier then the above example due to the close track.

and here another late 4 line Chapter Ring ref 5512 with transitional “Underline”, probably one of the very last minute tracks..

Other watch manufactures used similar signing for the tritium mark, these below Tornek- Rayville US had also a “moisture meter” on the dial, chancing the upper half of the circle into the same color as under half once moisture entered into the watch case. VERY clever and innovative solution to protect your watch. One of the very first Daytona’s Rolex delivered. A 922.xxx serial “Underline” with “Double Swiss” signing ( one swiss not visible as it’s located under the rehaut) The perfect voluminous tritium dots matches the color of the hands of this hardly worn exceptional rare Cosmograph..(follow the link to more vintage Rolex study) Explorer 1016 with of which we see the unique cracks in the glossy lacquer perfectly. You know also notice that the luminous on the markers and 3-6-9 are deeper in the dial located… This “Underline Explorer 1016 has a tritium radiation, less the 0.25 Msv. Close up of a rare service dial, one that only has a added “T” behind the radium SWISS, clearly added later and maybe a finished swiss dial that never got laminated and was used as service dial by adding the T and tritium. A Rolex service done after 1964 when international regulations forbid the use of radium. The “Swiss T<25” glossy tritium dial from 1964-1967…. showing some light “spiders” around the luminous plots…

The meaning of T SWISS T and its different versions.

T = Tritium
T SWISS T = Index in gold
T Swiss Made T = Index in gold
0 T SWISS T 0 = Index in gold
– TswissT – = Index in steel
Swiss T < 25 = radiation lower then 25 Milli Curi Ci.

A overnieuw from one of the most successful references Rolex ever made, the Submariner ref 5512/3 from 1959 till mid 80-ies..

Below some NOS (New Old Stock) Rolex and Tudor dials that have a rich patina due to the fact they where stored in the dark and haven’t seen the light for many years…

The coming of the seventies chanced the dial surface from glossy to a modern matte surface, here a Ref 1016 Explorer with nicely aged tritium luminous. The with the previous glossy dials so matching gold print chanced with the matte dials to a modern white print… The more yellowish color of the tritium is cleverly visible in next experimental Rolex SeaDweller. The iconic “Single Red ref 1665”. Matt dial, white print, note also that the printed DATE behind oyster perpetual is much bigger in text. The red Sea Dweller text perfectly covers the white text underneath, first examples of this legendary reference had a 500m = 1650 Ft depth rate.. Shortly later, end 60ies, came the Red Submariner Ref 1680, of which many different version have been made.. (follow the link to more vintage Rolex study)

Heavy patinated Ref 1665 for Qaboos in like NOS condition…

A “T Swiss T” Daytona ( having 1/3 of the tritium as a more luminated Submariner or GMT ) Nicely aged dots are matching the color of the hands.

You see below the lume dots of the Newman dial are bit bigger due to the fact the where placed against the typical square newman index…

Here we see the tritium light up under ultra violet light, shortly after you did this, the bright color will fade away and stay visible in the dark for another minute or 2. In daylight we see the luminous is creamy colored, once activated with UV light it become bright green.

3 x perfectly aged and all intact Oyster Paul Newmans…

Up close a detail of the structure of how a original aged tritium dots looks like, spongy.

2 nicely aged unrestored Cosmograph’s with perfect matching tritium luminous..

We see that sometimes the lume dot has been moved, most probably due to a hard hit like falling on the ground or so..

Around the beginning of the 70-ies we see on several Sports Rolex that the black paint of the dial changed during the years to a tropical brown tone. This was most probably due to the fact that the dial maker mixed his black color with plenty of red pigment and due to the exposure to the UV light, the black faded to brown. Something we particularly see on Meter first Red Sub’s, MK2 Seadweller’s and GMT Masters but also on regular 5513 Subs or Daytona’s from around 1968-1972. A MK2 thin case Double Red Seadweller with tropical dial. The red and white paint is as usual with matte dials added on top of the dial, without any lacquer over it. On single and double Red Rolex dials we often see that the tritium luminous is very thin, sometimes even more white then creamy colored.

Dark chocolate ref 1680 from the first serie, with meter first…

A Sigma ( white gold markers around 1970) T swiss T Daytona with faded tritium dots and tropical brown sub dials All black sigma Daytona from first owner in untouched original condition. Perfect matching luminous shows a perfect condition of the dial..

Here below we see a modern interpretation Rolex Geneva made for a client, gold print of a modern design, toned luminous…

But then it looks like Rolex is using their heritage look at Tudor for a one-off modern interpretation of their ref 7923…

Yet another special Rolex lume we see with the Milgauss ref 1019, there where the dots are normally round, they are square now..

2 x creamy colored tritium Explorer’s, both untouched and still in their original condition. All 3 belonged to Sir Edmund Hillary…

Fat Ref 5513 matte Submariner tritium plots that are so big they touch the track on the outside…

Or no luminous at all on this blue Submariner prototype ref 5513 made by “Singer” for Rolex in 1967… Ref 1665 as MK 3 DRSD on the left next to a little later by “Stern” manufactured “Rail Dial”…

Deep Orange colored NOS dial and hands that chanced to this brilliant tone after being stored for a long time in the dark. 2 x Rail Dial on the top, followed by a Mk2 with tropical brown dial and a Mk 4 with matt black dial… Close up of a naked Comex Seadweller ref 1665… A later ref 1680 with feet first Red Submariner with very light colored tritium… A Big Red Daytona Cosmograph with nicely voluminous tritium dots.. The transitional Submariner from plexi to sapphire crystal, ref 16800 & 168000. Matt dials in modern case, with anti scratch crystal was the way forward.. A safe queen ref 16800 that spend it’s life in the dark. Note the heavy patina on the dial and tritium dot of the bezel, there where the hands typically for this reference, chanced muchness in color tone.. I hope you’ve enjoyed my “The Evolution of Vintage Rolex Luminous and Dial Production”. In the near future I will add more detailed information as collecting vintage Rolex is a never ending story. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly: info@RolexPassionReport.com

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Le Cadran – The Dial – Book by Helmut Crott

Philipp — Sun, 12 Sep 2021 15:04:19 +0000

Today I went to see my old buddy Helmut Crott who made a important book about watch dials. The extensive archive he has put together over the last 50 years has made him the to go to expert if you are looking for more proven evidence. Many auction houses and important collectors have reached out to Mr Crott over the years. His bibliotheek of original documents of dial makers such as Stern and others is one of a kind. He’s in the possession of all the pictures details made by these dial manufactories and combined it in his recently launched book “Le Cadran”.

Besides all this historical important documentation he has built up an archive of all auction results and their specific info since the early beginnings. So if you for instance want to know if your Patek Philippe 2499 has the correct dial, Mr Crott will find it out. As an ex auctioneers ( Dr Crott in Aachen Germany) he’s still very actively busy archiving his enormous databank. Find his website over here. I always love it to talk details with a long time expert Mr Crott is. I have an admiration to see him on his 73th year still so passionate about watches and all necessary details. He’s very humble and open minded.

Since in today’s market 80-90% and sometimes even more of the value of a watch lies in the originality or the dial, his book is a must have for every serious watch collector who wants to understand the production proces of a watch dial.

You can order your copy by using this link which will guide you to his PayPal to buy it online.

Enjoy the below pictures I like to share from this amazing must have watch book.

For more information dead over to http://www.vintagewatchexpert.com

If you have any questions, send it over or me by using the contact button.

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