Ah, Paris and Tokyo, two of my favorite eating cities in the world.

And not just for the chocolate, although that is probably a big part of it

My buddy Alex, who is living the expat life in London, recently popped over to Paris on a pilgrimage to seek out the best roast chicken. Now, the joy of a bird should not be understated. French chef, author, and TV personality Jacques Pepin even states if he had to eat the same meal everyday for a week, his choice would be roast chicken with potatoes and salad.

When it comes to soliciting eating recommendations, one of my go-to references for Western Europe is Alex. Not only is he an avid food enthusiast who has traveled all over the world, he does his research. He is  not easily impressed and we both believe some of the best food in the world can be served at hole-in-the-walls. Plus, he makes one hell of a roast chicken.

When I am in Paris, I always spring for any one of the roasted chickens right off the spit, which you can find at any of the outdoor markets. It is customary for me to spend a few hours walking while working up an appetite so I can satisfyingly tear into a crispy skinned chicken.

For a roast chicken and a healthy serving of potatoes, you and two of your pals can be full for a total of 15 bucks.  This is one of those times when I “graciously” insist, “Let me pick up the bill.”

Almost as good as the crispy-skinned roast chicken are the potatoes, which are laid at the foot of the spit so the chicken fat drippings season them

But on my next visit, I will consider temporarily trading in my commoner’s roast chicken and fork out some dough to check out Le Coq Rico.

Photo courtesy of Alex Duff

After trying several places, my buddy Alex sends me a triumphant email matching the exuberance a CEO would send after landing a multi-billion dollar deal: “Perhaps the greatest rotisserie chicken in the world – from Le Coq Rico on Montmarte in Paris.”  He then adds, “96 Euros for what you see on the table, but then, the best in the world isn’t exactly cheap.” Note: 96 euros is equivalent to a Benjamin and an Andrew Jackson combined.

Photo courtesy of Alex Duff

So, what is up with this bird?  Is it massaged and fawned over like its kobe cow brethren in Japan?  Alex explains, “The bresse chicken is from the Bourgogne region in France, and is roughly the equivalent of Kobe beef. I can find these chickens at a few fancy places in London, like Harrods, but they don’t produce that many, and few are exported.”

In addition to the quality of the chicken, Alex asserts the crispy-skinned bird is expertly rotisseried and carved.  And do not discount the fixings:  The jus (gravy) rocked his socks. He poured it all over his fries and chicken.

Bonus: Although Parisians generally look on in confusion and disgust when you ask for a doggie bag, at Le Coq Rico, they box up the carcass and leftovers for you and include a recipe to make homemade chicken consommé.

Will I give up my plebian taste for the $15 roast deluxe chicken meal at the outdoor Parisian food markets?  Probably not.  But will I set aside some of my chocolate and clothing fund to make a pit stop over to Montmarte and give his 96 euro chicken a try?  Absolutely.

And while you are there, you can pick up a comparably-priced bottle to go along with your pimped-out bird (photo courtesy of Alex Duff)

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

Despite Seattle's coffee competitive landscape, Slate still stands out

Ever since founder and chef Josh Henderson and the Skillet hit the dining scene in a 1962 vintage Airstream mobile kitchen, the truck has been a big hit.  Specializing in American classics with seasonal ingredients, Seattleites have been queuing up since 2007 to fill their bellies with the legendary burger with bacon jam and fries with poutine.

You will now see a fleet of Skillet’s airstream trucks roaming around town, in addition to a brick and mortar diner in Capitol Hill, a counter in the Seattle Center Armory Center, and another permanent spot planned for Ballard this summer.

At 2001’s San Francisco Street Food Festival, amidst loads of vendors cranking out standout food ranging from Scotch eggs to moth larvae tacos, Skillet’s menu seemed subdued, but the truck got a lot of attention.   I remember hearing one foodgoer gush over the Airstream: “I just loooooove that truck.”

Would Skillet be just as successful without the Airstream? Seattleites have an established love of all things retro and vintage.

Henderson, one of the pioneers of the modern food truck movement, may have drawn some first-timers in through the intrigue of his snazzy silver trailer, but converted many of them as regulars because of his exceptional chef-inspired eats.

Another Airstream that recently hit the scene is Slate Coffee, parked in the Piecora’s parking lot on Capitol Hill.  Slate is family-owned by two siblings, Chelsea Walker, her brother Keenan, and their mom.  This trio’s story and love of coffee couldn’t be cuter if they played the harpsichord and sang.  You will also find former baristas from Zoka and Victrola at this coffee mecca.

Check out the classy chocolate brown hardwood floors on Slate's Airstream Land Yacht

I am confident this Airstream has got to be way more than just “cute,” after two of RN74’s dashing sommeliers, Luke Wohlers and Chris Tanghe, tell me about its greatness.  Wohlers and Tanghe are studying to be master sommeliers (there are less than 200 of people in the world with this title), which means they have superhero tasting abilities and impeccable taste.  They both order an Espresso “neat”, while I go with a Panamanian brew prepared through the Chemex.  Everything is brewed to order so don’t be an impatient monkey when you make a pit stop here.

Owner Chelsey Walker tells me to expect notes of chocolate and fruit.  As she hands it to me, I can smell chocolate and fruit through the lid.

She invites us on-board the pimped-out airstream, decked out with chocolate hardwood floors, and I have to admit, I am smitten with the truck and its charming staff.

But as my buddy Luke explains, the owners of this small batch coffee business take their coffee seriously.  Luke half jokes he had his “little mind blown” after hearing about their rigorous process.   For example, after roasting, you can tell which beans are good based on their shape.  The crew goes through and discards the ones that aren’t up to snuff, one by one.   No one will be surprised to hear they only use direct trade beans.

The crew just opened a retail space in Ballard, but the land yacht is still in full effect. You can catch Slate and their Airstream from Wednesday-Sunday 8AM-2PM in the Piecora parking lot.

I have got a love of Airstreams and all things unusual, but I have got a bigger love for all things that taste exceptional.  Skillet and Slate have nailed both.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

First published in the print edition of the Seattle Weekly.

“Let’s go foraging with Langdon Cook,” my adventurous friend Paige coaxes.

“Ok, sounds good,” I reply, as I sign up for the two-day foraging and cooking class offered at The Pantry at Delancey. It was quick to sell out.

Driving up to our foraging meeting spot, I turn to Paige and say, “He will probably be eccentric, don’t you think? Anyone whose name is ubiquitous with foraging like Langdon Cook has gotta be a bit odd. ”

“Ya, and he may be snooty and introverted,” Paige adds.

“Well, at least we will get a nice walk out of it, and maybe learn something?”

Forager profiling is what we were doing, and we couldn’t have been any further from the truth. I would like to note though, Langdon Cook, who has even spent time picking morel mushrooms in the Yukon Territory, confirmed my hypothesis/stereotype about people who are drawn to living and working in the remote wilderness: “They do all smoke weed.”

Enthusiastic (yet easygoing), captivating, adventurous, and good-humored are key words to describe Langdon Cook.  As a former reporter, Cook is a gifted storyteller and a good relater, making foraging seem accessible even to someone who mistakes weeds for plants and waters them (yep, that is me).  As he kicks off our foraging excursion, he says he didn’t even know how to chop garlic in his 20′s, but foraging and wanting to impress his girlfriend at the time (now wife) unleashed his culinary prowess.

Geeky, no. But brainy, yes.  The author of Fat of the Land can spot a perfectly ripe fiddlehead fern, rattle off its formal scientific name, and tell you how to best cook it all in the same sentence, while quickly segueing to the next sentence where he is rattling off the name of the songbird (Wilson’s warbler) that is reciting a melody to us on our journey.

His pal and fellow forager, Jon Rowley(oftentimes referred to as the Oyster Whisperer and also one of the most knowledgeable and interesting people I know), says about Cook, “Langdon is one of my mushroom pals.  Good man, but I have to say spot prawn fishing out of a canoe is just plain nuts.”

What the class was about: Equal parts hiking, science and cooking  

Last Sunday, 17 of us met up with Cook to go on a three-hour adult field trip around Tiger Mountain, where we learned how to find fiddleheads (which originate from the root of lady ferns, not to be confused with bracken which are carcinogenic), miner’s lettuce, wooded sorrel, and stinging nettles (which have as much histamine as a fire ant).  We learn that tightly-coiled fiddleheads are a sign the wild vegetable is young and still tasty, while the loose strands are too old.

We also learn nettles start emerging in February and can be found in lowlands such as Discovery and Tiger.  Cook tells us these perennial green flowering greens are the most nutritious plant in the entire plant kingdom and the backbone of any spring time culinary forager as they can be substituted for spinach in any recipe. Cook even prefers nettles to spinach as he says the plant leaves have a more complex taste. I agree.

Searching for stinging nettles with protective gloves and long pants in tow. To get rid of the sting on the leaves, you boil them for a minute

We also get a primer on how to assess a habitat, as Cook tells us identifying your surroundings is an important foraging tool to help deduce what treasures are and are lurking in the vicinity. For instance, Cook tells us lots of dying Washington alder trees or cottonwoods mean oyster mushrooms could be lurking close by.

If you spot a white blooming trillium, morels could be in the near vicinity. When the trillium turns pink, it signifies porcini mushrooms are nearby.

We talk ethics, aka – don’t be a hoarder: 1/3 wildlife, 1/3 for regrowth, 1/3 for yourself. We approach one loan baby puffball mushroom (the size of a button mushroom) that a few of us are tempted to pocket. To save the little puffball from our greedy eyes, Cook diverts our attention by telling us a story about his first radio appearance on KUOW. He didn’t know what to expect and was naturally a little bit nervous. On the way to the radio station, he finds a big ol’ puffball mushroom, slightly smaller than the circumference of a hula hoop. He decides to bring it to the station with him as a security blanket. In the event conversation ran dry, he could have this mega-sized mushroom as a talking piece. The staff at the radio station loved his show-and-tell piece, and he ended up cutting chunks of it off and sharing it with the staff.

Fiddlehead ferns waiting to be pickled

When students ask Cook how to get started with foraging, he oftentimes tells them to start with their own yards. “Weeds are the most nutritious. When people talk about the best way to rid their yard of weeds, I just tell them, I eat my weeds.”

On Monday, we regroup in Ballard at The Pantry  to cook up the goods we hoarded…I mean, foraged: Asian-style pickled fiddleheads, elephant ear pasta with stinging nettle pesto, and stinging nettle soup. I went to work the next day glowing from all the nutrients.

Green is the theme of our communal dinner with Langdon at The Pantry

After taking Langdon Cook’s cooking class, my friend Paige and I officially have the foraging itch.

If you are as intrigued as we are, check out Langdon’s website for information on upcoming foraging tours he will be leading.  Cook also recommends joining the Puget Sound Mycological Society, which organizes foraging hikes.  They even have an expert onsite at the end of each excursion to identify and validate your finds.

I just picked up Langdon’s book, Fat of the Land, and cannot wait to read his new book, The Mushroom Hunters, where he immerses himself in the clandestine commercial mushroom industry. The book is due to come out in September and is currently available for pre-order.

As research for his second book, Cook embeds himself in a tent city in Central Oregon, where Laotian immigrants set up rustic residence for two months to round up matsutake mushrooms. He also goes way out into the remote Yukon to pick morels alongside commercial mushroom harvesters for 16 hours a day.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

Sure, Frommers and Lonely Planet guide books might get you around Tokyo.  You will read about how to get to the iconic Tsukiji Fish market (which is moving to a new site so you had better get your arse there soon) and Akihabara (known as “Electric Town” because it is the mecca for electronic gadget junkies ), but you certainly won’t get the local’s point of view.

Your best bet for getting the low down on Tokyo is spending a few bucks to purchase Matthew Amster-Burton’s new ebook, Pretty Good Number One, where he chronicles his experience spending a month in Tokyo with his wife Laurie and their 8-year old daughter Iris.

The book is uniquely entertaining as it is informative.  Amster-Burton’s book reads like a storybook adventure: part story, part guidebook, and part food memoir.

A longtime Seattle resident who does a weekly podcast called Spilled Milk with Orangette’s Molly Wizenberg and writes for publications such as Gourmet, Seattle Times, and Wall Street Journal, Burton just came out with his second book about a month ago.

I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Matthew to discuss his new book.

You published your first book, Hungry Monkey, the good ol’ fashioned traditional way (aka- via a publisher and a physical book).  Why an eBook the second time around?

When I first pitched the idea my publisher said she loved the idea, but since it didn’t strictly fall into a travel memoir or cookbook or straight-up guide book, she couldn’t publish it.

Before this experience, I didn’t really read ebooks.  More than 90 percent of what I read was paper books.  But I wanted to figure out the world of ebook publishing, and I wanted to take on the challenge to see if I could raise the money without doing a paper book.

Having gone through both experiences, which one is easier?

The distribution part and inventory are a lot easier for an ebook.  There are a few aspects that are harder for ebooks, but overall, the turnaround time is significantly faster.

It took me less than a year to get Pretty Good Number One out the door.  I took the trip to Tokyo in July of 2012, completed a draft in January 2013, and published the book six months later in April 2013.  Publishing would have been a lot lengthier if I had gone through the traditional publishing route.

It took me 8-9 months to write the draft for my first book, Hungry Monkey, one month to write the proposal, and then one year before the publishers released the book.

How did you decide on taking the one-month trip to Tokyo?

I got into Japanese food right after Iris was born in 2003.  Iris has always been a talkative child so I decided to introduce the topic of sushi and Japan to her.  She loved learning about Japan so much I first took her there in 2006 when she has six.  It was also my first trip to Japan.

We loved it so much we decided to go back.

Photo courtesy of Matthew Amster-Burton

What were the main points you were hoping to get across in writing the book?

I want to do for Tokyo what many guide book writers have done for Paris.  I feel like Tokyo needed a PR person so I took it upon myself.

Paris is an easy sell for Americans because it is a Western country and it is strikingly beautiful.  Tokyo is not as aesthetic at first glance.

Hospitality is what makes a city, and that is where Tokyo excels.  I have devoted an entire chapter on the topic.

I also wanted to avoid coming across as “that guy”, where people would roll their eyes and say, “Hoo boy, another white guy who thinks he knows everything.”  I wanted to write about an authentic adventure, where someone with a  Japanese background to read it and validate it has street cred.   The book is also available on amazon.jp, and has received great reviews.

Were you worried your daughter Iris wouldn’t have fun in Tokyo?

It is hard to imagine a kid who wouldn’t enjoy Tokyo because there is food there for all types of people, ranging from the pickiest eater to the most adventurous eater.

Also, in Tokyo, kids enjoy such a high degree of autonomy I have never seen anywhere else.  Cars drive slowly and cautiously on residential streets so you always see tons of kids playing in the streets.

Tokyo is also considered quite safe.  It is common to see 8 year-old kids taking the subway by themselves.  We would send Iris to the grocery store, five blocks away.  She loved it.  She was 8 at the time, and loved having a task and some independence.

Photo courtesy of Matthew Amster-Burton

So, no issues at all traveling with an 8-year old?

Iris is a really easy traveler, but she is still a kid, so there were your typical kid meltdowns along the way.  I remember one on the shinkusen train.  She wanted to play games on my phone, while I wanted to use the phone to figure out directions to get to our next destination.

But overall, I really enjoy traveling with Iris because, as a child, she is more easily impressed.  So when she gets excited, I get excited.  She provides great perspective.

I also find having a cute kid with you is a great icebreaker when you are traveling, particularly in Japan.  People are really patient with kids.

You mention Tokyo brings on that sentimental homesickness.  You mentioned you were watching the flick Ramen Girl, and started bawling, even though you acknowledged the movie really wasn’t all that good.  With Tokyo as the backdrop, it clearly struck a chord with you.  Why is that?

Tokyo has a special place that has the place to pull heart strings.  It is absurdly welcoming to people.  You will be greeted like you are visiting your grandparents.  You will feel taken care of.

Japan is the opposite of the DMV.  It is the least annoying place in the world.

I also acknowledge there is a dichotomy of visiting Japan vs. living in Japan as a foreigner.  I can only speak to the first.

The cover of your book has got an octopus in it and you mention tako.  Is tako your favorite food in Japan?

[Matthew pontificates for about 10 seconds] Udon (noodle soup made from a type of thick wheat-flour noodle) is my favorite, but takoyaki (meatball-sized octopus balls) is a close runner-up.

Photo courtesy of Matthew Amster-Burton

 What is something about Japan people may not know?

People may not know how diverse Japanese cuisine is and how it is really hard to find bad food.  I was there for an entire month, and I wish I could have eaten more.  For instance, I wish I could have eaten more curry.  If you go to France, and you eat the food, it won’t change your view much.  The food will mostly look and taste the way you had envisioned.  But in Japan, you will find things you would never see in the US, such as eel on a stick.

Japan will rock your world.

Hiyashi chuka, a cold noodle salad with sesame dressing. Photo courtesy of Matthew Amster-Burton

Any parallels between Tokyo and Seattle?  Both are good walking cities, and best to see on foot.  Seattle and Tokyo are both exciting food cities and both have elements of a shared culture where it is easy to get to know people on a superficial level yet hard to make the step to real friendship.

++++

Regardless of whether or not you are planning a trip to Tokyo, Burton’s book will leave you laughing, craving to learn more about Japanese culture, and salivating for good food.   With over 20 chapters separated into consumable 8-12 page segments, I am so entertained by Burton’s funny and astute observations I can recite them verbatim.  To give you a taste: In the Tempura chapter, Burton professes his love of the fragrance of tempura.  He states, “If I were married to a tempura chef, I would encourage her not to shower after work.”

In “The World’s Greatest Supermarket” chapter, Burton pays homage to the food at 7-Eleven, which was one of my favorite grub spots in Tokyo.  Burton captures elements that would be easy to miss at a cursory glance to a tourist.

Burton’s next trip?  He is contemplating a tour of Asia, covering ten cities in ten chapters.  Or he says he may just head back to Tokyo for another few months.

You can buy ‘Pretty Good Number One’ on Amazon, Kobo or iBooks.

While most people excitedly head to 2nd/Stewart in the evening to catch a show at the Moore Theater, my favorite time is in the morning and my destination is the petite coffee shop that is situated next to the Moore Theater, not surprisingly called Moore Coffee Shop.

Although this two-year old coffee shop is likely the runner-up for smallest business in downtown, second only to bike messenger-coveted takeaway window Monorail Espresso, Moore is the spot I recommend to pals who want a relaxing start to their morning and are intrigued by options more than just your typical mocha or latte.

Decked out with a sleek faux-fireplace, a modern long booth with three petite tables, the natural light and soft music in the background make this coffee spot one pontificating-conducive environment.  I have to watch myself or else I easily run the risk of falling into a meditative state that has me foregoing the calendar reminder going off on my iPhone and the fact that the meter maid or meter gentleman is on his/her way to bust me.

Time slows down in this joint offering cold brews, creative lattes of the month, European silverware dishes and old school orange covers for your to-go coffee cups.

What can one expect from a bacon latte? Think normal latte + a hint of bacon flavoring, topped with two strips of bacon. Those powder protein drinks can suck it.

And what do I pair with my coffee drink?   A tamale.

The owners are from Mexico, and for $1.83, you can pick up one of their homemade tamales.  My favorite is the chicken, but you can’t go wrong if you choose the veggie or pork.  If you eat your tamale there, the staff will warm it up for you and bring you two squeeze bottles filled with their house made red and green sauce.  Do not forgo the sauce.

So, the next time you are downtown and feeling like more than just your typical muffin to go with your espresso, head over to Moore Coffee.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

Right around daylight savings, my body suddenly reaches for a salad before that oxtail stew or steak frites.  Ok, I still reach for fries and steak, but I am really over stews until next Fall.

Here are the spots in Seattle that give fried chicken and meat a run for their money:

Pestle Rock: I am starting to feel like a telemarketer, but I can’t stop raving about Ballard’s newest Thai restaurant.  Situated on Market Street in the space where Snooze Junction Pizza used to reside, this six-month old restaurant specializes in food from the Northeast region of Thailand.  That means you will see more than pad thai and pad see ew on the menu.

Cusine from this region is known for seasonings of  fresh herbs, lime juice, and fish sauce. One of their specialties is the Yum Larb Isan.  For you frequenters of Thai cuisine, think of your typical Larb Gai with ground pork with red onion, mint, basil, lime, but also with dried chilies, and toasted rice powder.

The Yum Larb Isan is great on its own. I like to go lettuce wrap style with sticky rice

The Whale Wins:  For 10 bucks, the unassuming and modestly named “lettuces salad” is the mother crack of all salads.  I can’t go a week without ordering this pile of lettuce with pistachios, Yarmuth goat cheese, dill, chives, and other herbs.  Aside from freshness, dressing is what can make or break a salad. It can tie together a salad or make you wish you were stuffing your face with a cheeseburger instead.  Whale’s vinaigrette is as unobtrusive, yet as imperative as air.

The yin and yang

Dot’s Delicatessen: My man Mark says you can barely label Dot’s $9 frisee a salad as the vegetable to meat ratio is highly skewed in favor of piggy.  Cubes of rich pork fat, known as lardon, add a rich smokiness to the dish, and the frisee greens are a welcomed wispy offset.  Again, this is one of those times where vinaigrette harmoniously brings everyone together like glow sticks at a rave.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

If Seattle could guarantee a couple days of sunshine per week, none of us could afford to live here. These gray winters keep our rent down, so we ride them out and look forward to the good days. One way to do that is to celebrate every 3,600 extra seconds of light we get when we set our clocks ahead.

Another way is to congratulate ourselves for filling out a bracket with Gonzaga Basketball exiting March Madness no later than the second round. And maybe the simplest of all, just wait for halibut season.

The staff at Sushi Kappo Tamura getting up close and personal with their new halibut friend. Photo courtesy of Sushi Kappo Tamura.

The halibut fishing season started about three week ago. According to Taichi Kitamura, co-owner/executive chef of Sushi Kappo Tamura, “Alaska’s halibut season coincided with Washington state’s this year. After three months of a less abundant fish supply, I have suddenly got tons of people trying to sell me fish.”

These meaty suckers range in weight from 20 pounds to well over 100 pounds. When I worked in Alaska, it was common to see tourists decked out in their khaki-waterproof-zipper-cutoff pants and vests, trudging to Seward or Homer to hunt halibut. Apparently, the success rate is quite high and the halibut have a reputation for being quite cooperative in getting caught.

“I buy my Washington halibut on the small side, about 20 pounds,” Kitamura states. “The smaller, younger fish are easier to work with and have a firmer texture that makes it great for sushi.”

Many halibut preparations await you at Sushi Kappo Tamura as the staff serves the flat fish straight-up sashimi style with green onion, grated daikon, chili, and ponzu, nigiri style that adds a pillow of rice underneath, and tempura style with a side of matcha (green tea) sea salt and lemon.

I hesitate to divulge my favorite bits of halibut, but withholding information seems a bit anti-internet, so fine. I adore the collar of any large fish: like salmon, halibut or yellowtail. Although you have to navigate through the chunks of skin, fin, and bone and they are not the most Heidi Klum aesthetic part of the fish, you will be rewarded with the super buttery-fatty meat in the collar. Plus, there are only two collars per fish so I feel like a VIP when I land one.

Not the prettiest item on the menu, but I think of navigating through the bones and fin to get to the fatty tender pieces of the fish as a game. A game that I can win, unlike Rock Band Expert.

What’s Chef Kitamura’s favorite part of the fish? The skin. Some American restaurant goers get squeamish at the mere sight of skin, but Kitamura says when the skin of a fish is young and fresh, it is oozing with flavor. Skin-on prep includes steaming with ginger, tamari, scallion, sake, hot oil, Chinese-style.
My other go-to spots for halibut:

Matt’s in the Market: Situated in the heart of the Pike Place market, Matt’s is one of those unique spots that can draw a regular crowd of both locals and tourists. I dig the Halibut fishwich, a chunk of halibut so big it hangs over the brioche bun slathered with spicy tartar. The fishwich goes best (like everything on the menu) with bartender Robbie’s Bloody Mary and a Midwest style snit of High Life.

Fish Basket Food Truck: $11 gets you two humongo halibut fish tacos, filled with hearty chunks of fish with a smoky chipotle ranch sauce, apple salsa, tartar slaw and a side of lime.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on April 17, 2013.

When I crave a weekend getaway requiring minimum effort that yields maximum satisfaction, Whidbey Island is high on my list.  Whidbey is 35 miles long and the fourth longest island in the country.

Here are my criteria for a low maintenance/highly enjoyable weekend:

• Convenience: A 25 minute drive on I-5 from Seattle to the Mukilteo ferry, 20 minute ferry ride, and then you are there.  You could even squeeze your excursion into a one-day adventure if you feel like sleeping in your own bed.

• Hiking/Biking options: Since I sit on my arse all day with my office job, I crave as much physical activity as my body can tolerate on the weekends.  Fort Ebey State Park fits the bill.  The Bluff Trail and Lake Pondilla Trail, located just steps from the Fort Ebey Campground, conveniently connect to the Kettles Park Trail System where endless hiking and mountain biking trails await.  Featuring panoramic views of the Puget Sound and Olympics, the park and campground are also an ideal destination for picnics, beach walking, and fresh water fishing in Lake Pondilla.

• 

  The trails at Whidbey Island's Fort Ebey bear a striking resemblance to our trek around the Queen Charlotte circuit in New Zealand. Not too shabby, Washington state.

• Good eats:  The island towns of Coupeville and Langley both rank high in the charm factor.  Owned by the Kroon family since 1974, walking into Coupeville’s Knead and Feed is like walking into the cozy living room of an old friend.  Operating as both a bakery and restaurant, the two window seats looking out into Penn Cove have got to be the best seats on the entire island.

• 

  The Knead and Feed building has been around since the 1800's, initially functioning as a pharmacy

  

  Knead makes all of their baked goods onsite, including the thick slabs of ooey gooey cinnamon swirl bread for their French toast. Locals also gravitate to the marionberry bear claw and the equally satisfying cinnamon roll.

Head to Local Grown Espresso on the pier, where you can look out and catch a glimpse of Mount Baker on a sunny day.  Owner William Bell says on a windy day, it’s trippy because you can feel yourself swaying along with the pier underneath you.

Evening hike along the bluff - Best part about camping in Washington this time of year: You get to enjoy nature all to yourself

 Reading is sexy:  In Langley, I always make a pit stop to the two-story house where Moonraker Books resides.  I will never tire of the enjoyment I get from walking into a mom-and-pop bookstore, sifting through the books and looking at the covers.

I know I am not the only one out there as Moonraker just celebrated their 40th birthday.

Farmers markets: The Coupeville Farmers market is now up and running. Bayview’s Farmers market , located on the south-end of the island, will kick-off on April 27th.

Some hard-core lady hauls salmon to the farmers market on her bike

Where to stay: Whidbey is flush with both bed and breakfasts and campgrounds.  I can never seem to deviate from Fort Ebey campground, where you are steps away from the bluff and each campground is landscaped with trees to provide the perfect amount of refuge between you and your neighbor.

For more Seattle weekend getaways, check out Bainbridge Island and Lopez Island.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.

Last week, a Mr. Fox caught my attention when he emailed me to tell me about his upcoming pop-up.  That same night, my eating pal Rachel and I coincidentally ended up sitting next to him at the Kraken Rice Congee pop-up at Grub in Queen Anne.  He introduced himself in person that night as Joel, but it is hard to think of him as anyone else aside from his twitter handle, Mr. Fox.

We talked about Mr. Fox’s upcoming pop-up at Grub next Monday, 4/15, which he has mysteriously entitled Feral.  The genre is a combination of Spanish and Asian, which is as cryptic as Mr. Fox himself.

In the words of the Fox, here is a preview of the three course meal:

Course 1

Think you have seen Mr. Fox before?  The Economist-reading and Mac-carrying 30-something year-old worked a stint at Revel and was a butcher before that.

Apparently, foxes aren't into having their picture taken

Can foxes cook?  Well, see for yourself next week.  In the meantime, here is a picture of a dish recently concocted by Mr. Fox.

I hear foxes generally eat small mammals such as squirrels and a lot of grass. Mr. Fox is a cultured fox; he cooks up yellowtail belly, and lives in a state where grass is legal. (Photo by Mr. Fox)

Perhaps Snoop Dogg stayed at Cave B solely because he simply needed a place to crash after performing at the Gorge Amphitheater.  Or maybe he just needed some down time with his homies? Or was he tempted by the prospect of picking fleshy semillon grapes right off the vines on the premises?

When I was first driven to my bungalow from the reception desk, I didn’t believe Snoop really stayed at this refuge located 900 feet above the Columbia Gorge and 2.5 hours from Seattle.  ”Of course he did,” replied the driver, just like many performers before him.  One of the most memorable stories entails how Dave Matthews hopped on one of the rental bikes from his room at Cave B straight to the Amphitheater stage as hoards of fans were awaiting his arrival.

"Ants Marching" - If this means nothing to you, then you are officially not a Dave Matthews fan

Aside from being the staple lodging for big performers at the Gorge Amphitheater, this is also the place to go if you feel like checking out of society for a while.  Cell phone service is spotty to non-existent, and the standalone cliffhouses and desert yurts make you feel like you are roaming the earth with our pre-historic caveman ancestors.

Cave B Inn offers 55 guestrooms, including 15 stand-alone Cliffhouses, 12 Cavern Rooms, three Inn Suites, and 25 Desert Yurts. I chose this one.

The yurts and vines at sunset

Hiking is effortless as trails begin steps away from your room.  The trails are so desolately peaceful you can hear the wings of the birds flapping above you.  No joke.  At one point, I looked up because I thought I heard the faint sound of a plane above me.  In actuality, what I heard was a group of birds flapping their wings in unison.

With all the serenity, you may think you need to go caveman style and burn wood to make a fire and cook.

I suppose you could do that, but Cave B has got you covered with a full-service restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, and room service.  Don’t leave without trying the housemade grape jelly.

The onsite spa is another diversion.  My facial with Laura was so good I am planning a trip back out to Central Washington just to see her. Was your last facial with a German-trained lymph drainage specialist? I think naught.

Still not convinced hiking, grape picking, and facials are enough?  Venture a few minutes from your room and find:

1) Golf: There are a few golf courses within a 30 minute drive.  Pick the right day and you could have the course and view all to yourself.

2) Concerts: I would rather stay here when there isn’t a concert going on at The Gorge, but if you are craving a slightly more energetic trip, check out Live Nation’s concert website for a schedule of upcoming performances at the Amphitheater.

3) Swimming:  Cave B’s outdoor pool is the place to be during hot summer days

Outdoor pools are a rarity in Seattle, but with temperatures averaging in the 70's in May and upper 80's in June and July, Cave B's pool is highly coveted in the spring and summer

4) Fishing: The staff can hook you up with casting lessons, guided fly fishing trips on the Yakima River and Sand Lakes.

5) Bird watching: Raptors, song birds, and game species have enough sense to know Cave B and its surrounding areas are the places to be.

6) Other food options: TheYellow Church Cafe and The Grainery are cute breakfast and lunch options.  I would stick with Cave B for because it is pretty good, close to my bed, and you never can tell who will roll in with a Grammy or a blunt.

If you like what you are reading, follow me on Facebook and @rollwithjen on Twitter.  For tips on my favorite places to eat in town, download my free iPhone app.