Revealed Rome

What I Will (...And Won't) Miss About Rome

2013-05-21T16:35:05+02:00

Hey, Rome, I'm gonna miss you...

No, I'm not moving—but I am headed to the States for the biggest chunk of time since relocating to Italy. In June and July, instead of sweltering in the Rome heat, I'll be sweltering in New York City enjoying the surplus of air-conditioning in Manhattan.

And, of course, I'm already thinking about what I'm going to miss about Rome while I'm gone. Not to mention what I'm excited to experience in New York.

Here's a (partial) list... so far:

What I'll miss about Rome

1. Drinkable wine (that doesn't break the bank). Is it terrible that this is one of the first things I thought of? Yeah, probably. But whenever I go back to the States, I can't get over how the same mediocre bottle of wine that would cost €2 on the shelf, or be cheap "vino della casa," in Italy, somehow gets marked up to $40 or $50 in the U.S. Eesh.

The beach of Santa Marinella, just 45 minutes from Rome

2. Easy beach access. I know, I know, New York has beaches nearby, too. Call me crazy, though, but there's just something about having sparkling-blue, Mediterranean water a 45-minute train ride away that kind of beats Long Island Sound.

3. The festival on the Tiber. From June to August, Rome's clubs, bars, restaurants, and even shops move down to the river. Stalls stretch along the Tiber for about a mile, and it becomes the go-to place to meet friends for a drink, a dance, or just a lazy stroll. It's such a great atmosphere–and so much better than dancing indoors in a sweaty club.

Summer festival along the Tiber River

4. All things (really) old. I'm obviously a history geek, so whenever I go back to the U.S., I miss being surrounded by 300-year-old palaces and 2,000-year-old ruins. All the more so when I'm walking in the West Village and hear someone say breathlessly, "Ohmygod, that brownstone is 100 years old!". (Me? Jaded? Never...).

Most summer Sunday lunches in Rome, you can find me with a plate like this

5. Spaghetti alle vongole. Preferably consumed near a beach. Of course, the northeastern U.S. has fantastic seafood (I still dream about Maine lobster). But it's different than the seafood in the Mediterranean. The clams for spaghetti alle vongole just aren't the same and, yes, I'm always worried that a U.S.-side restaurant won't understand the meaning of al dente.

What I'm most excited about in New York

The Fourth of July... just one thing that's definitely more exciting in New York than Rome

1. Cheap (good!) mani-pedis. I'm not sure if this makes up for the lack of cheap wine, but at least it's an indulgent-perk alternative. You can get pretty fingers and feet for, like, $20! With a little massage thrown in! In a city where it's pretty much impossible to sublet a room for under $1,000 a month! Seriously, is that not a miracle?

2. Experiencing a new-ish, and definitely dynamic, place. I know it sounds like an obnoxious-expat thing to say. But I've been abroad for long enough that now, when I visit the U.S., everyday aspects of life feel almost... new. I've been baffled by super-cheery waiters, confused over how much I should tip if I've ordered and picked up my food from the counter, and floored by the number of shampoo options in your average pharmacy. And that's not to mention all of the things in New York that will be actually new to me, from restaurants to galleries to people.

But it's more than that. In New York, I find there's a certain dynamic energy that, for a host of reasons—from Italy's entrepreneurship-choking red tape and high taxes to the country's "brain drain"—just is harder to find in Rome. I'm excited to spend a couple of months soaking it in.

There's even creativity (and entrepreneurship?) on New York's sidewalks

3. Air-conditioning. Although this technology has, theoretically, made it to Rome, few locals have decided to make use of it, my landlord included. Since I work from home so much of the time, being able to stay in an apartment where air-conditioning is non-negotiable is something I am seriously excited about.

4. Ethnic food. Yes, Rome has... some. But let's just say it's no New York. So for the next couple of months, I plan on making up for any Mediterranean seafood deficits with lots of sushi, chicken bhuna, tacos, and kimchi. Just to start.

Sushisushisushisushi

5. Absurd conveniences. When I was staying with a good friend (and 5-year Manhattanite) over the holidays, we couldn't find a cab to get back to his apartment. I was about to start complaining about how the idea of New York convenience is a myth when he whipped out his iPhone. A couple of touchpad-swishes later, he'd hired a car to come get us.

Five minutes later, he asked me what late-night munchies I wanted. "Fresh-baked cookies," I joked. "Oh wow, me too! I'm ordering them now," he said. Wait—huh? But, sure enough, there they were on Seamless. They arrived piping hot.

Obviously, lots of these conveniences require some serious cash. Definitely more than I make as a starving artist freelance writer. (Maybe I should start another list of my worries about spending two months in New York...). But the fact that these perks are even available blows my mind.

New Video: Azaleas in Bloom

2013-05-14T11:41:42+02:00

Over the next few months, I'm going to be rolling out some new Revealed Rome videos and video posts. In celebration of spring, here's the first—a short-and-sweet look at the azaleas in bloom on Rome's Spanish Steps. Enjoy!

Got a Question About Italy? #RevealRome

2013-05-10T15:21:46+02:00

I get a lot of questions about Italy. And I try to answer as many of them as I can—either via email, or comments, or through blog posts, my e-book, and, obviously, one-on-one in my consulting sessions.

But everyone likes to mix it up once in a while. So I’m thrilled to announce a new Revealed Rome series: #RevealRome.

It works this way. Just ask a question that you want to see me answer in video format. (And no, it doesn't have to be about Rome!). You can submit your question either by posting it in the comments, on the Revealed Rome Facebook page, on Twitter, or by emailing me at revealedrome@gmail.com. Tag your question #RevealRome. Every two or three weeks, I’ll pick a couple of the questions to answer with a video post.

In the meantime, make sure you subscribe to the Revealed Rome YouTube channel. I'll be unrolling several new video posts in the next few weeks!

Rome Like a Local, For National Geographic Traveller

2013-05-10T14:31:40+02:00

For the May issue of National Geographic Traveller (that's the U.K. version of the magazine), I was asked to write about how to explore Rome like a local. If you're based in the U.K., check it out to find out more about my favorite restaurants, bars, stores, and neighborhoods in Rome. Not in the U.K.? Stay tuned—I'll update this post with a link when the article goes live online.

Talking Public Transport on the "How to Tour Italy" Radio Program

2013-05-06T17:13:11+02:00

Rome's public transport might not sound super-sexy... but it's crucial to know about, at least if you don't want to spend a bundle on taxis. Catch me on Anthony Capozzoli's "How to Tour Italy" radio program (his 100th episode, and my third time on the show!), sharing tips and tricks to getting around Rome by metro, bus, and tram. You can tune into the episode here.

(In previous episodes, we've spoken about some of my favorite underground sites in Rome, and about everything Rome-related, from graffiti to gelato).

Five Most Overrated Things to Do in Rome... And What to Do Instead

2013-05-03T20:55:05+02:00

Want to know the best things to do in Rome—beyond seeing the Sistine Chapel and the Colosseum? Then put away your guidebook. When they go beyond the main sites, too many books (and magazine articles, and television shows) provide the same tired, touristy list of things to do and places to go in Rome.

The problem: These places aren't only overrun with tourist crowds, but often just don't tick the box they're supposed to.

Here are five of Rome's most overhyped activities—and what to do instead.

1. Instead of having a coffee at Piazza del Popolo...

Don't get me wrong: The large, obelisk-topped Piazza del Popolo is worth a stop. (Don't miss the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, with its Caravaggio paintings). But it's not where to go for a cup of coffee. The couple of cafes on the piazza are scams expensive (think €4.50 for an espresso) and the service is terrible—which is why you won't see any locals there.

...enjoy a gelato at Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina.

A 5-minute walk from Piazza del Popolo is the lovely little Piazza of San Lorenzo in Lucina. If you must sit and have a coffee or a snack outside... on a pedestrian piazza... in the heart of Rome's historic center (and who can blame you?), this is where to go. Yes, the main cafe here, Ciampini, is also pricey. But the (also jacketed) servers are actually nice, the clientele is mostly made up of upscale Italians, and the gelato is among the best gelato in Rome.

2. Instead of shopping on Via del Corso...

Oh, yeah, Via del Corso's just great for shopping. If you want to browse the same merchandise from H&M, Gap, Athlete's Foot, and Zara that you'd find back home. No, thank you.

...shop on Via Urbana, Via del Boschetto, and Monti's other side streets.

For shopping, you can't beat the little rione of Monti, located near the Roman forum and Colosseum. It's chock-full of well-priced, trendy boutiques and artisans, and there's only one chain store (an American Apparel, yuck) in the whole district. Whether you're looking for handcrafted jewelry, or vintage clothes, or gorgeous home goods... this little area's got it all. (Don't miss my post on shopping on Monti's Via del Boschetto!).

3. Instead of observing the locals at Piazza Navona...

Seeing Piazza Navona, a gorgeous, Baroque fantasy of a piazza: a must. Going there to "observe the locals": a mistake. Nine out of ten of the folks you see strolling by are tourists. (The one exception is over the holidays, when Roman families head to Piazza Navona's Christmas market). And, yes, that also means that all of the so-called restaurants on the piazza are tourist traps.

...people-watch (the Romans) at the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti.

It's not in your guidebook? Exactly. This is where the locals hang out from morning to the night, either grabbing a seat at the 16th-century fountain or an outdoor table and a (reasonably-priced!) coffee or glass of wine at the Bottega del Café. For real local cred, just call it the "piazzetta," like Monti's residents do.

And if you come on a Friday or Saturday night when the weather's warm, be prepared. This little piazza is shoulder-to-shoulder with 20- and 30-somethings meeting friends, chatting, and, yes, drinking wine. (No open container laws here!). Talk about atmosphere!

4. Instead of taking in the view from the Victor Emmanuel monument...

You won't be able to miss the Vittorio Emanuele monument at Piazza Venezia even if you want to: It's obscene enormous. But you can choose not to fork over the €7 to take an elevator to the top. Yes, there's a good view of Rome from here. But there are good views of Rome elsewhere, too... ones that won't cost you a dime.

...enjoy peace and panoramic views at the Giardino degli Aranci.

The Giardino degli Aranci, or Garden of the Oranges, is located on the Aventine hill, behind the Circus Maximus. The views from here take in everything from the Pantheon to St. Peter's. And you're accompanied by lovely orange trees, a Renaissance fountain, and the next-door Basilica of Santa Sabina.

5. Instead of searching for la dolce vita (and luxury hotels) on Via Veneto...

Thanks to Fellini, everyone's heard of the Via Veneto. But when it comes to where Rome's VIPs go, that was so 50 years ago. While the Veneto is still lined with 5-star hotels, they're a bit like the austere grandmothers of Rome's luxury accommodation scene: elegant and moneyed, yes, but also a little worn around the edges... and hardly hip. You'll also find few good restaurants, cafes, or bars on the street (just touristy ones!), and forget nightlife.

Let's just say this street has seen better days. (Not to mention is still banking on the dolce vita connection: Yes, the lit-up sign above is on the Via Veneto).

...stay in a luxury boutique hotel in the Spanish Steps area.

The Spanish Steps area is expensive and, yes, still touristy. But if you're looking for a taste of la dolce vita (and a luxury hotel), there's no better quarter. These days, this is where Rome's most upscale and newest boutique hotels—not to mention most high-end boutiques—are located. And the cobblestoned streets are way more atmospheric than the asphalt Via Veneto. Plus, the area's more convenient to Rome's major sights.

The Island of Ischia: An Easy, Gorgeous, and Cheap Trip from Rome

2013-04-30T14:30:00+02:00

In less than three hours from Rome, you can be... here!

The island of Ischia, located in the Bay of Naples, offers everything you'd want from a Mediterranean holiday: Stunning views. Bright-blue water. Lush hillsides. Beaches. A castle.

And it's really, really easy to get to from Rome. Not to mention cheap. (At least if you book in advance).

The largest island in the Bay of Naples, Ischia has a history that stretches back to the Bronze Age. In later years, it was settled by the Greeks, who built its famous castle back in 474 B.C., and then by the Romans. It's now called Castello Aragonese, thanks to being rebuilt in the 15th century by Alphonse of Aragon.

Ischia's famed Castello Aragonese

The castle isn't just picturesque from afar; it's a must-see up close. Several churches are tucked inside, as are walking paths and lush gardens with some of the most beautiful views I've seen in Italy. And that's saying something. (Don't believe me? Check out the video below).

But the Castello Aragonese isn't Ischia's only attraction. The island also has famous gardens, especially La Mortella and Villa Ravino; thermal pools and spas; and resort towns that are as lovely as they are, necessarily, touristy.

Beaches, you say? Well, like lots of islands and stretches of coastline in Italy, you won't find miles of white-sand beaches here—the volcanic terrain tends to be steep and rocky. But there are beaches here, and what they lack in size, they gain in accessibility. There's a significant stretch right near the port where the ferries come in.

Then there's the food. While it can be tough to access Ischia's most authentic restaurants unless you have a car (or a lot of patience to deal with the island's bus system), some of the little bakeries and trattorias in the resort towns weren't half-bad. Although the culinary highlight of the trip was the sfogliatella I had at a little bakery in Ponte Ischia—second only to those I've had in Naples.

Sfogliatella and a cappuccino in Ponte Ischia—talk about a decadent way to start the day

Convinced? Luckily, getting there is easy.

First, take the train from Rome to Naples. Do yourself a favor and take the high-speed Frecciarossa: It takes slightly over an hour and is way more comfortable than the alternatives. Plus, if you book in advance, it's often just as cheap. I lucked out and, for my journey there, got a spot in business class (you get a roomy seat! and snacks! and a newspaper!) for just €29. On my way back, I spent €25 for a seat on the Intercity local train, which was uncomfortable, crowded, took more than 2 hours, and reminded me why I should always take the Frecciarossa instead.

Once you're in Naples, you can grab a bus to the port, or a taxi. The flat rate for a taxi from the train station to port is €11. If there isn't traffic, it takes less than 10 minutes.

Then it's time for the ferry. Mine, with Alilauro, took an hour and cost about €20 each way. (Seats aren't reserved, so you want to arrive about a half an hour early; make sure especially to give yourself time on the trip there, since that's when you'll exchange your printed-out ticket confirmation for the tickets themselves).

Add it all up, and it's a bargain. This weekend, it took me less than 3 hours, and €60, to get to Ischia. Not so bad... at least when you're exchanging a hot, chaotic city for a peaceful Mediterranean island.

Five Reasons to Love Spring in Rome

2013-04-19T17:55:07+02:00

In the springtime, you don't even have to go to a park to find flowers in Rome!

There's nothing quite like spring in Rome. And coming from someone in love with this city no matter the season, that should mean something.

In Rome, spring brings that sliver of time (seriously, just a handful of weeks) when it's no longer cold and rainy... but not yet boiling hot. You have to duck tour groups around the Colosseum and Vatican, but it's not quite the human bumper-car game it becomes by June. And as people take to terraces and piazzas—whether kids kicking a soccer ball or friends meeting for a glass of wine—the atmosphere gets cheerier (and the people-watching better!).

Here are 5 reasons I love the spring in Rome, in pictures.

Spring is the perfect time to stroll the Via Appia

Rome's Via Appia, perfect for a springtime stroll

Walking the Appia Antica is a must-do any day the weather's nice, springtime or not. But there's something about the spring—when the birds are chirping, the grass is practically fluorescent, and tour buses are still scarce—that's especially lovely. Here's more on the Appian Way (with video!).

It's beach weather, but nobody seems to know it yet

One of Rome's beaches in spring: so tranquil!

Rome has some great beaches within an hour from the city. (My favorite is Sperlonga, but for convenience, I often head to Santa Marinella). This time of year, it's more than warm enough to spread out on the sand (even if the water's still a bit chilly!)—and there's still room to do so, too. Come summer, everyone has the beach on the brain... and that becomes a much more difficult prospect. Especially on weekends.

Spring means artichoke season in Rome

Roman artichokes, in season only in the spring

Proper, Roman artichokes—carciofi romaneschi—grow only from February to May. The rest of the year, the artichokes you see on menus in Rome are imposters aren't local, Roman artichokes, but from elsewhere in Italy or France. Eat 'em alla giudia (fried) or alla romana (braised with olive oil, garlic, and herbs).

Other Roman foods that come into season in spring: asparagus (March to June), fava beans (April to June), puntarelle (March and April), carrots (April and May), and peas (April to July). Right now, look for dishes on the menu that have those ingredients—they'll be the freshest, and most delicious (not to mention the best for local agriculture and the environment!).

Flowers, flowers everywhere (even the Spanish Steps!)

Springtime flowers on the Spanish Steps

Like everyone else, I'm a sucker for flowers. So while I usually avoid the Spanish Steps (so many people! too many vendors trying to sell me cheap toys or roses!), I always make a point to walk by as often as I can in May. That's when the city puts out big pots of blooming azaleas on the staircase. They're only there for a couple of weeks, though—it's one round of azaleas, and when they die, they're carted away—so I always find it a bittersweet reminder of how fleeting springtime, and time itself, truly are. (Deep thought for the day...)

Eating gelato isn't just excusable—it feels right

Gelato: a way more excusable indulgence when the weather's warm

Don't get me wrong. I can eat gelato year-round. In fact, there's nothing I like better in the winter than a scoop of marron glacés gelato from Ciampini. But getting a fresh scoop, and then slowly strolling down Rome's cobblestoned streets, taking leisurely nibbles under the sunshine? That's how the gelato experience should be. And somehow, having to wear gloves just to hold the coppa in your hand without getting frostbitten fingers detracts from that a little bit.