Roofing Blog of Northeast Ohio.

Leak Chasing 101

2013-06-24T08:50:00.000-07:00

Leak Chasing 101
Finding the leak is half the battle. Roof leaks
are usually not difficult to repair… But finding them
can be tricky. The main problem is: The place the
leak is showing up inside, may not be directly
under where it’s coming in outside.
For example, on a sloped roof, the water might get
under the roofing at a protruding nail, and then run
between the roofing and the plywood deck until it
gets to a seam in the plywood. Then it drips onto
the top side of a cathedral ceiling where it runs
down to a seam in the drywall. The spot it’s getting
through the roofing can easily be several feet away
from the spot it’s showing up inside.
Drips can also get diverted by rafters and stuff they
land on in the attic. I chased one leak that rode an
air conditioning duct for twenty feet from the spot it
came in.
Analyzing leak signs in the house. The first
step in finding a leak is to check out where it is
showing up in the house (assuming it’s not just
leaking outside through a soffit).
What you see inside can tell you a lot. It can tell
you if you’re looking for a big leak, or a small one.
A tiny stain on the ceiling indicates one thing. A big
hunk of drywall lying on the floor indicates a lot
more water coming in.
If the stain is still wet, you know it’s an active leak.
If not, it might be from an old roof repair, but the
ceiling was never fixed. Or perhaps the old stain is
bleeding through the new paint.
The most important thing you learn is EXACTLY
where it is showing up inside the house. The roof
problem may not be directly over the spot, but
that’s the best place to start looking. Here’s how to
transfer the location from inside the room to the
roof.
• Measure the exact distance from the leak to a
"reference point" you can see both inside and
outside the house. Windows and exterior doors
make great reference points. Draw a little sketch,
showing the distance between the leak and your
reference point
• When you are back outside, place your ladder
right by the reference point, IF that’s a safe place
for it. (See the section in Chapter Seven on ladder
safety) If that’s not a good spot for your ladder, just
toss a little pebble on the roof directly over the
reference point, to get you orientated up on the
roof.
• Note the width of the soffit overhang on your
sketch.
• Also, remember that your measurements
inside the room are horizontal and the ones on the
roof will be along a sloped plane (unless the roof is
flat). You need to allow a little for this difference.
On a roof with a 5:12 slope, add 8.3% to the
horizontal measurement. That comes out to an
extra foot along the slope for every 12 feet
horizontally. Add a little more for steeper slopes, a
little less for those with a lower slope.
This may allow you to find the roof problem without
ever going in the attic. That is especially helpful
when you have little or no attic access. It is also
helpful when you are not athletic enough to crawl
around attics. That’s a condition I found myself in
recently while recovering from some broken
bones.
Finding leaks without going in the attic can be a
little more challenging, but entirely doable. Like
most things, it gets easier with experience. www.macgregorroofing.com
Following the water path through the attic. Still,
finding a roof leak is somewhat simplified if you
have good attic access… and you’re up to the
task. You can see where the water is dripping
through the roof sheathing and if it is being
diverted. This is how to proceed…
• Gather up a flashlight, a bucket, a tape
measure, a hammer, a couple long nails, a short
board (two to three feet will do), writing paper and
a pencil or permanent marker.
• Go on up in the attic but watch where you step
(or crawl). You could easily break through the
ceiling. KEEP YOUR WEIGHT ON THE
FRAMING!
• Get directly over the wet spot. A helper can tap
on the ceiling with a broom handle if you're not
sure of the location.
• If the water is still dripping, get the bucket
under it. It’s better to catch the water in the attic
before it soaks into the insulation and ceiling. Set
the pail on your board, spanning two ceiling joists.
Don't set it right on the ceiling because the drywall
might not take the weight as the bucket fills up.
• Mark the spot on the underside of the roof
sheathing where the water is coming through.
• If the water has already stopped dripping, pull
the insulation back and set your flashlight on the
stain pointed straight up. Look for water marks on
the wood and mark the spot where they first show
up.
• Look for a reference point you can use when
you are up on the roof. This might be a plumbing
vent pipe going through the roof, a “goose-neck”
vent, a skylight or a chimney.
Measure from your reference point to the spot
where you first see the water coming through the
wood sheathing. This may not be the exact spot of
the actual leak, but it’s where to start looking when
you are up on the roof. Make a little sketch to keep
yourself orientated.
• If there are no good reference points to use,
you can make your own. After the rain has stopped
and you're ready to make the repair, go ahead and
drive a nail up through the roof at the exact spot
the water was coming through.
You might be reluctant to put a hole in your roof,
but this can be the best way to pinpoint a leak.
Using this method, I have found hidden leaks that
stumped other roofers.
Just don’t forget to patch the nail hole!
Pinpointing the problem on the roof. Using the
detective work you’ve done so far, you should be
able to get on the roof directly over the leak… or at
least where it's showing up inside. Now you need
to be very observant.
Starting at the spot you've pinpointed, do a very
thorough search of the area, particularly the
"uphill" side of the leak. You are looking for any
place at all where water could get through the
roofing.
Sometimes the problem is obvious, sometimes it’s
hidden. Keep looking. Be patient. The water has to
be getting in someplace.
Water-testing tips. Flooding the area with a water
hose MIGHT help you pinpoint the problem.
One big caution here; avoid walking on a wet
roof… especially if it is wood, tile or metal. Keep
your ladder off to the side -- away from the water
Start low at first. By that I mean, direct the water to
the lower parts of the roof. Let the water run on
each area for about fifteen minutes, before
directing the stream to a higher spot.
If there is a flashing detail in the area such as a
vent, plumbing pipe or valley, it might very well be
the problem. Directing water right on it will quickly
reveal if that’s the source of your leak.
It’s easier and safer to have a helper in the house
(or attic) monitoring the leak area while you are
water testing. Other wise, you will have to keep
running up and down the ladder.
Cell phones work good for coordinating your
efforts. Just don’t lose your phone in the attic
insulation. Yep, I’ve done that too!
After the repair, water-testing the same area
MIGHT tell you how effective your work was.
Just remember that water testing isn’t always
definitive. It’s tough to duplicate a torrential
blowing rain with a water hose. But if it still leaks www.macgregorroofing.com
when you water test it after the repair; you know
you still have a problem.
Six “head-scratchers” that might trick you. I
hate to throw technical jargon at you, but nothing
fits like the term us roofers use to describe a leak
that’s tough to find. We call it a “head-scratcher.”
An especially puzzling one is called a “REAL headscratcher.”
Back when I “knew it all” I would get irritated when
I couldn’t instantly find a roof leak. There’s a fine
line between confidence and arrogance… I
confess to having strayed over the border on
occasion. But as I’ve gotten a little older, I’ve
become more philosophical on the matter. I’m now
convinced that the very purpose of a “headscratcher” is to keep me humble!
Another thing I’ve learned over the years is that
leaks aren’t always caused by roof problems. Here
are some of the other things it might be:
1. Plumbing pipes. Leaks in water supply lines
can show up even when it's not raining. Typically,
a joint is dripping or there’s a little spray of water
coming out a pinhole in a pipe. Drain lines can also
leak. You find those under roof drains, plumbing
fixtures and hot tubs.
2. Air conditioners. Clogged condensate lines
are the main culprits.
I lost a 4’ x 4’ piece of the ceiling over my
daughter’s bedroom from this very thing. My wife,
Martha, saw the bulging drywall and thought it was
a bad roof leak. She told me I better come quickly
because it was going to collapse. But… I was
watching a good football game at the time. I
glanced out the window at the sunny day with no
rain in site, and told her I would get to it at half
time. About two minutes later I heard the crash
and she hasn’t let me forget it ever since. Some
day I’ll learn to LISTEN to that woman!
Another common leak problem with air
conditioners occur when the drip pan under the
condenser rusts out. One time I asked an AC tech
why they weren’t made from aluminum. He just
grinned and said “Why do you think?”
3. Windows and siding. These leaks show up
with torrential rains combined with strong winds.
4. Stucco cracks. Even small cracks suck water
like a sponge. The horizontal cracks are the worse.
And your sprinkler system might be supplying the
water when it’s not raining.
5. Chimney leaks. Leaky mortar joints might be
the problem. Or it might be an ill-fitting chimney
cap that is letting water in.
6. Planters. Some times these are mounted on
an exterior wall and leak inside, but it has nothing
to do with the roof .
macgregorroofing.com

5 basic roof repair methods.

2013-03-20T06:36:00.003-07:00

Here are some basic methods for repairing roof
leaks. In most cases, only a small amount of
material is needed. In fact, $100 worth of material
can fix many leaks.
Caulking can be used for many roof repairs,
providing it is done right. Here are some tips:
1. Use a good grade of caulk. Painters latex caulk
isn’t a good choice for roofing, because it won’t
last long. For a little more money, you can get
polyurethane sealant, which is a good choice for
many roofing applications.
2. To get a good bond, make sure the area to be
caulked is CLEAN AND DRY.
3. Don't just run a bead with a caulking gun. Work
the caulk into the joint. I haven’t found anything
that works as well as my finger for this.
“Three-coursing” is a quick and easy method to
stop almost any leak. When applied properly it is
compatible with just about any roof system. This is
how to do it right.
• Make sure the area is clean and dry.
• Spread a THIN layer of flashing cement over
the hole or crack and work it in to the
underlayment. Be sure to use flashing cement that
is compatible with the roof system you are
repairing.
• Test the adhesion by “patting” the cement with
your trowel. If you pat the cement and it comes up
with your trowel, the surface is too wet or too
dusty.
• Lay roofing membrane in the flashing cement
and work it in with your trowel. I like the strong
fiberglass type of membrane that comes in 4” wide
rolls. Unlike cotton membrane, you can’t rip it. You
have to cut it with scissors or a sharp knife.
• Spread another layer of flashing cement over
the membrane. Put just enough on so the fabric
mesh is not visible.
• For a final touch, the repair can be finished off
with roofing granules (applied when the cement is
fresh) or roof coating (applied after the cement has
set up).
Roof Coatings serve some useful purposes that
are discussed in Chapter Six. But generally
speaking, they are designed more for leak
PREVENTION than for leak REPAIRS.
However, roof coatings do go hand-in-hand with
the “three-course” method just described.
Coating can improve the appearance of the repairs
and more importantly, it will extend it’s life by
minimizing solar degradation.
Both white and aluminum coatings are available
for this purpose. They come in one gallon and five
gallon pails and can be applied with either a paint
brush or roller.
Again, make sure the surface you are applying it to
is both clean and dry.
Mending Tape is a relatively new material that is
excellent for many types of repairs. There are
several types made in several sizes by several
manufacturers. A company that specializes in this
type of product can be found in the Resource
Section.
Mending tape has a self-adhering backside that
sticks like crazy to just about anything. The
material is also flexible, so it can move with the
roofing as it expands and contracts.
And the top surface is white or silver to reflect
damaging UV rays.
Once again, make sure the roof surface is clean
and dry before installing the tape.
The stuff is “pressure sensitive” which means the
effectiveness of the bond depends on the amount
of force applied when installing it. A steel roller
helps you exert a strong, consistent pressure over
the entire patch.
Just replace it. When the roofing is damaged so
badly it can’t be repaired, it must be replaced. I’m
not talking about the whole roof, just the damaged
parts.
This is where that bundle of material leftover from
your reroofing project comes in handy. It’s the right
size, the right color and is available for “free” right
in your garage. You don’t have to spend thousands!
Macgregorroofing.commacgregorroofing.com

How to Ensure All Your Roofing Bids Are Specified Correctly

2013-01-25T07:28:00.002-08:00

How to Ensure All Your Roofing Bids Are Specified Correctly

Before you solicit your first bid, you need to
determine the scope of work. If you don’t do this,
the proposals you get from prospective roofers
may be very different from each other. You will be
trying to compare “apples to oranges”.
The problem is: Most people don’t know enough
about roofing to write good specifications. If you
do… great! If not, here are some other ways you
can come up with a good spec:
• If the scope of the project is large enough to
justify the expense, a roof consultant could
establish the scope of work. He (they’re usually www.macgregorroofing.com Roofing Contractors
men, but not always) can also help select bidders,
oversee the project and inspect the work to make
sure you’re getting what you paid for.
• Most roofing manufacturers have specs written
for their products. Of course they specify their own
components wherever possible, but that is not
necessarily a bad thing. Extended warranties are
available from these companies when you use
their “system”. These specs are often available
right on their websites, which you can find in the
resource section at the back of this guide.
• Another way to get a scope of work is to get
your first bid from the most solid roofer you can
find, and then make a copy of his specs for each of
the other bidders. Be sure to remove the name of
the original company and his price from the specs.
The other bidders may want to use their own spec,
but explain what you’re doing and ask them to use
your spec, so you can compare “apples to apples”.
If they want to present their own spec as an
alternative for your consideration, that’s fine.
Although you might not get the ideal spec with this
method, at least everybody will be bidding the
same way.
To give you an idea of what a good residential
spec looks like, here is one I’ve used a lot. It’s for a
complete reroof down to the bare wood, and
includes both steep-sloped and low-sloped roof
sections. It also includes clauses that are fair and
reasonable to both the homeowner and the
contractor.
======================================
For the “Steep-sloped” areas…
• Remove the old existing roof down to the bare
wood deck.
• Repair any deteriorated wood and re-nail
sheathing as required to meet current building
codes. (See Note # 9)
• Furnish and install Titanium UDL
Underlayment
• Furnish and install new .025 pre-painted
aluminum drip edge.
• Furnish and install new mill finish .025
aluminum valley metal.
• Furnish and install new lead flashings at the
plumbing vent pipes.
• Furnish and install new mill finish aluminum
“goose-neck” vents.
• Furnish and install GAF-ELK “Timberline” 30-
Year, fungus-resistant, fiberglass architectural
shingles with six nails per field shingle and four
nails per cap shingle.
• Furnish and install ___ feet of new pre-painted
aluminum ridge vent
For the “Low-Sloped” areas…
• Remove the old existing roof down to the bare
wood deck.
• Repair any deteriorated wood and re-nail
sheathing as required to meet current building
codes. (See Note # 9)
• Furnish and install tapered system to provide
positive drainage.
• Furnish and install Certainteed Base Sheet.
• Furnish and install Certainteed Self-adhering
Mid-Ply (smooth-surfaced modified bitumen).
• Furnish and install new .025 prepainted
aluminum drip edge.
• Furnish and install Certainteed Self-adhering
Cap Sheet (white granular-surfaced modified
bitumen).
Please note…
1. All material is guaranteed to be exactly as
specified (or equivalent if not available).
2. All work to be completed in a workman-like
manner and meet or exceed all applicable
building codes.
3. All workers to be fully covered by workers
compensation and liability insurance as
required by law. Roofing contractor to provide
copies of insurance certificates prior to
commencement of work. www.macgregorroofing.com Roofing Contractors 50
4. This agreement is contingent on items beyond
our control such as weather, accidents and
material delays.
5. Water intrusion due to leaks within a roofing
system can lead to the proliferation of mold on
exterior and interior surfaces. In performing
this work, it is understood and agreed that the
roofing contractor and their insurance carrier
disclaim liability for any mold problems and will
not be held responsible for any direct,
incidental or consequential damages, including
health problems attributable to past, present or
future water intrusion and associated mold,
fungus, mildew, or algae growth.
6. Any legal claims relating to this agreement
shall be settled by arbitration in accordance
with the American Arbitration Association.
7. This proposal excludes any interior repairs,
painting, gutters, soffits, fascia, pool cages and
solar removal and replacement.
8. Any alteration or deviation from the above
specifications involving extra costs will be
executed only upon written orders, and will
become an extra charge over and above the
estimate.
9. Since deck problems are a hidden condition
until the old roofing is removed, any work
needed to repair it is in addition to the price
quoted below. We charge $37 per man-hour,
plus materials (including sales tax and 15%
mark up) for this work. Roofing contractor to
provide before and after photos of all wood
repairs. Alternately, we would be pleased to
work with any carpenter that you might
provide.
10. This proposal includes clean up and removal of
all roofing debris. It also includes all permits,
inspections and filing of the “Notice of
Commencement” at the county clerk’s office as
required by law.
======================================
The proposal should also specify the warranty, the
price for the work, and when the payments are
due.
Keep in mind though, that roofers in different parts
of the country do things a little differently. In snow
country for example, it is common to run a selfadhering waterproof membrane along the eaves to
help protect the edge of the roof from water
trapped by ice dams in the gutters.
Once you have a scope of work, the next step is
choosing your roofing contractor. Good luck in your search!
macgregorroofing.com

Where to find the most reputable roofer in town.

2013-01-18T05:52:00.001-08:00

Start a file on prospective roofers. Stick with

professional roofing contractors. In most areas that

means they are accountable to a local or state

licensing board. That gives you some leverage if

you need it. “Roofers from Hell” don’t worry about

licenses, permits or their responsibilities to you.

Ask your friends, neighbors, relatives and

coworkers if they can recommend someone. They

might also tell you who to avoid!

Call the roofing suppliers in your area or drop by

for some product literature. Talk to the manager,

tell him about your project and ask for the names

of a few good roofers. If nothing else, he knows

who pays their bills and who doesn’t, which is part

of being professional.

Call the building inspector’s office for your

municipality and speak to a roofing inspector. Ask

about the permit and inspection requirements for

your project. While you have him on the phone,

ask for a few names of roofers in your area who do

good work. He probably won’t make an official

endorsement, but he might give you a few names

to check out.

I don’t recommend getting bids from everybody in

the phone book, but your roofer should be listed

there if they’ve been in business longer than a

year or so. A phone listing is just part of being

professional, so prospects and customers can find

you.

But don’t be overly impressed by the big ads you

see in the yellow pages. They’re very expensive

and may be an indication the company depends

on them for leads rather than referrals from

satisfied customers. www.macgregorroofing.com Roofing Contractors

Pay attention to roofing work going on in your

neighborhood. Look for yard signs and company

names on the vehicles.

What’s the condition of their trucks? If they don’t

care about their own equipment, how much do you

think they will care about your roof?

What about the roofing crews? Do they go about

their work in a quiet professional manner… or

does the jobsite resemble a wild roof party,

complete with beer and music blasting from a

boom box?

Do they keep the jobsite clean… or are there

shingle wrappers and debris blowing all over the

neighborhood?

If you get the chance, talk to the homeowner after

a hard rain… is he a happy camper?

Finally, check out your prospective roofers on the

internet. Google the names of the companies and

also the owners.

See what Angies List (www.angieslist.com) and

the Better Business Bureau (www.bbb.org) have

on them. Also check their status with your local

and state licensing boards.

By now you should have several companies to

choose from. Select the three with the strongest

reputation.

Call each of the three you have selected and

request an estimate. Make an appointment with

each of them… at least two hours apart. They

expect you will get other bids, but they don’t like to

run into their competition on your roof. It gives the

impression you are calling everybody in the phone

book and going with the cheapest price.

The good guys will go the extra mile for you, but if

they think all you are interested in is the cheapest

price, they probably won’t be very interested in you

or your project.

When each roofer shows up, make note if he’s on

time. This is a clue to his character and business

savvy. If he can’t even be on time when he’s trying

to get your business, how responsible will he be

after he gets it? Anybody can be late, but he

should at least call.

You should try to establish some rapport with each

roofer. Keep in mind that while you are sizing him

up as a potential contractor, he is sizing you up as

a potential client. He’s trying to separate the

“prospects” from the “suspects”.

He wants a client who is friendly, decisive,

reasonable, non-obtrusive, and one who will allow

him a fair profit. The good guys usually have plenty

of work. They can afford to pass on people and

projects that are problematic.

The impression you want to give this guy is that

you are friendly, but also an informed consumer

who is serious about getting a good job.

Give the estimator your spec sheet and ask him to

bid it this way. If he wants to do it different, get his

reasoning and ask him to bid his way as an

alternative.

Some roofing contractors estimate their own jobs;

some have a salesman do it. Some do it in one

trip, some measure the roof up and come back

with a presentation. Any of these methods is

acceptable.

Once the roofing proposal is prepared, it would be

good to sit down with the roofer to discuss it. You

might offer him a soda or coffee. Ask questions

and listen carefully to the answers.

One important question to ask is: “Exactly why you

should hire HIM rather than his competitor”. If he

doesn’t have a good reason for that, maybe there

isn’t one.

If you have a salesman pushing you to sign, just

tell him you are getting two other bids and you

can’t possibly make a decision until you have all

the information.

At this point, you should have a bid from each of

three roofers for identical scopes of work. Review

the information you have on each roofer. Call them

back if you need a clarification. Compare the

prices, terms and warranties.

As you make a decision, pay close attention to

your “gut feeling”. This is really just your

subconscious picking up little clues that you

weren’t consciously aware of. It might be his body

language, his handshake or something in the way

he makes eye contact.

It doesn’t really matter what it is. But something is

telling you that you can trust this guy or you better

not trust that one. Listen to these feelings as they

are surprisingly accurate.

If you are leaning towards a particular roofer and

he is the lowest price of your three candidates you

have an easy choice.

If your first choice is higher than the others, you

have a decision to make. You could try to get him

to lower his price. Just call him and say that you

really want him to do the job, but his price was “X”

dollars higher than his competitor. He may be

willing to match that price, or come down some to

get the job.

On the other hand, you may want to give him his

price. Some roofers get offended when you try to

beat them down and any rapport you’ve built with

them will be shot.

If this is the guy you will probably hire anyway, you

want his best efforts… rather than something less

because you’re paying him something less than

his price.

If you decide to pay his price even though he is a

little higher than the others, be sure to mention it.

He will appreciate your trust and possibly try extra

hard not to disappoint you.

Once you’ve decided who you want, you are in a

good position to encourage the roofer to “sweeten

the deal” a little.

For example, say you want to get the work done

fast. Call the roofer and ask him if he could start

right away if you gave him the job. He might be

willing to juggle his schedule a little to get the

work.

If getting the best job is your hot button, call the

roofer and ask if you could get his best crew if you

gave him the job. Again he might be willing to

juggle things around so you get his best guys and

it didn’t cost you an extra dime to get them.

My point is: If there is something else you want, try

to award the job contingent on you getting it.

That’s when you have the most leverage.

www.macgregorroofing.com

The Only Roofer You Should Trust With Your Project

2012-09-14T07:55:00.002-07:00

The Only Roofer You Should Trust

With Your Project

There are plenty of roofers around, but the only

one you should get is the BEST roofer in town.

Notice I didn’t say the cheapest roofer in town or

the one with the biggest yellow page ad. No, you

want the best roofer you can find. The roof on your

home is too important to trust to anybody else.

You may be pleasantly surprised to find that the

best guy charges little or no more than the others.

It’s true that it costs more to do things right, but

there are also some savings.

For example, the guy you want probably gets a lot

of referral business. That means he doesn’t have

to spend a small fortune on expensive advertising

to make the phone ring.

He also tends to do the job right the first time, so

he doesn’t have to pay service crews to go back

and fix all of his mistakes.

And he isn’t always being dragged into court,

where he has to pay expensive fines and legal

fees.

This is a guy who does it right, day after day,

throughout his entire career. He’s not perfect, but

he shoots for excellence on every job. He’s that

rare craftsman in a world with way too many

“hacks”.

Try to get a guy that does repairs and preventative

maintenance as well as reroofing. A roofer

shouldn’t push reroofing on you when repairs will

do. He also shouldn’t try to sell you repairs when

you really need a new roof. You want a guy that

can offer you the roofing solution need.

As Abraham Maslow said: “When your only tool is

hammer, every problem looks like a nail”.

I’m not saying that your roofer should offer every

type of roofing system made. If you follow my

suggestions in the last chapter, you want a guy

that is good with asphalt shingles and selfadhering flat roofs. If you’ve chosen a different

type of roof system, find a good roofer who

specializes in that system.

By going with a specialist, you avoid many

potential problems. It’s like taking your car in for a

tune-up. Do you want a guy who only does one car

like yours a month? Wouldn’t you be better off with

the guy who does them every day? He would have

all the right tools, the right parts and know all the

best techniques. It would take him less time and

you would probably get a better job for less

money. And it would probably be fixed right the

first time.

Same thing with your roof.

If you choose well, most everything else will fall

into place. Choose poorly and it doesn’t matter

what safeguards you try to employ. You will

probably get burnt anyway. It really is that simple

and that important.

But finding the best roofer can be a little tricky.

Typically these guys don’t advertise much,

because they don’t have to. Most of their work

comes by referral. Their names are on the hearts

and minds of their happy clients. Finding them is

part of a four-step roofing process that includes:

1. Ensure all your bids are “Apples to Apples”.

2. Find the best roofer in town.

3. Supervise the work, without alienating the

crew.

4. Wrap up the job, making sure you get

everything you paid for.

Let’s look at each of those steps in more detail…

How to Ensure All Your Bids Are

“Apples to Apples”

Before you solicit your first bid, you need to

determine the scope of work. If you don’t do this,

the proposals you get from prospective roofers

may be very different from each other. You will be

trying to compare “apples to oranges”.

The problem is: Most people don’t know enough

about roofing to write good specifications. If you

do… great! If not, here are some other ways you

can come up with a good spec:

• If the scope of the project is large enough to

justify the expense, a roof consultant could

establish the scope of work.

men, but not always) can also help select bidders,

oversee the project and inspect the work to make

sure you’re getting what you paid for.

• Most roofing manufacturers have specs written

for their products. Of course they specify their own

components wherever possible, but that is not

necessarily a bad thing. Extended warranties are

available from these companies when you use

their “system”. These specs are often available

right on their websites, which you can find in the

resource section at the back of this guide.

• Another way to get a scope of work is to get

your first bid from the most solid roofer you can

find, and then make a copy of his specs for each of

the other bidders. Be sure to remove the name of

the original company and his price from the specs.

The other bidders may want to use their own spec,

but explain what you’re doing and ask them to use

your spec, so you can compare “apples to apples”.

If they want to present their own spec as an

alternative for your consideration, that’s fine.

Although you might not get the ideal spec with this

method, at least everybody will be bidding the

same way.

To give you an idea of what a good residential

spec looks like, here is one I’ve used a lot. It’s for a

complete reroof down to the bare wood, and

includes both steep-sloped and low-sloped roof

sections. It also includes clauses that are fair and

reasonable to both the homeowner and the

contractor.

======================================

The proposal should also specify the warranty, the

price for the work, and when the payments are

due.

Keep in mind though, that roofers in different parts

of the country do things a little differently. In snow

country for example, it is common to run a selfadhering waterproof membrane along the eaves to

help protect the edge of the roof from water

trapped by ice dams in the gutters.

Once you have a scope of work, the next step is

choosing your roofing contractor.

Where to Find

The Best Roofer in Town

Start a file on prospective roofers. Stick with

professional roofing contractors. In most areas that

means they are accountable to a local or state

licensing board. That gives you some leverage if

you need it. “Roofers from Hell” don’t worry about

licenses, permits or their responsibilities to you.

Ask your friends, neighbors, relatives and

coworkers if they can recommend someone. They

might also tell you who to avoid!

Call the roofing suppliers in your area or drop by

for some product literature. Talk to the manager,

tell him about your project and ask for the names

of a few good roofers. If nothing else, he knows

who pays their bills and who doesn’t, which is part

of being professional.

Call the building inspector’s office for your

municipality and speak to a roofing inspector. Ask

about the permit and inspection requirements for

your project. While you have him on the phone,

ask for a few names of roofers in your area who do

good work. He probably won’t make an official

endorsement, but he might give you a few names

to check out.

I don’t recommend getting bids from everybody in

the phone book, but your roofer should be listed

there if they’ve been in business longer than a

year or so. A phone listing is just part of being

professional, so prospects and customers can find

you.

But don’t be overly impressed by the big ads you

see in the yellow pages. They’re very expensive

and may be an indication the company depends

on them for leads rather than referrals from

satisfied customers. www.macgregorroofing.com

The History and Benfits of Metal Roofing.

2012-08-06T11:14:00.002-07:00

The History and Benfits of Metal Roofing.

Metal roofing has been around in various forms for

centuries. It comes in hundreds of different sizes,

shapes, materials and colors.

There are architectural metal panels which are

made to go over roof sheathing and structural

panels that don’t need any sheathing at all. And

there are metal roofing products made to simulate

the look of tile and even wood shakes.

The minimum slope varies, but many metal roof

systems require at least 3:12 slope.

The benefits of metal roofing. Many people like

the look of certain types of metal roofing. In our

area for example, 5V metal panels are popular on

upscale beach homes. (They’re also popular on

barns… which makes more sense.)

Metal roofing has a long roof life, especially if it is

maintained properly. That gives it low life-cycle

costs.www.macgregorroofing.com

Metal roofing is lightweight and can go on

structures that can’t take tile.

And of course metal won’t burn, so it offers a Class

A fire rating. That alone could steer you in the

direction of metal roofing if you live in an area

prone to brush fires.

The problems with metal roofing. The biggest

disadvantage of most metal roofing systems is the

difficulty of walking on them safely. Just as you

should be able to walk across a roof without risk of

damaging the roofing, you should also be able to

walk on one without putting life and limb at risk.

That means having a moderate slope as discussed

in the design chapter. It also means having a roof

system that gives you good footing.

Have you every noticed how much a metal roof

panel looks like a playground slide? Did you ever

try to walk up one as a kid? Now think about doing

that with a hard fall waiting for you when you slip.

And when the metal is wet, like it might be when

you are having roof problems, it goes from

dangerous to treacherous. Remember what

happened to the roofer in the story that opened

this chapter? A little dew almost did him in.

There are some metal roofing systems that have

granules embedded in the face which offer better

footing, but that brings me to my second problem

with metal… exposed fasteners.

Many metal roof systems, including some of those

which are granule coated, are attached with

exposed fasteners.

It’s a curious thing that all other types of roofing try

to avoid any exposed fasteners whatsoever, yet

some metal roof systems have them all over the

place. Those 5-V panels on the upscale beach

homes for example, have an exposed screw every

12” over the entire roof.

Well, I guess that’s OK if you live in the desert or

some place like San Diego that only gets nine

inches of rain per year. In Southwest Florida where

I live, we can get that much rain from a single

tropical storm.www.macgregorroofing.com

The problem with all those exposed fasteners is

when they start leaking. It usually doesn’t happen

right away. But right about the time your warranty

expires, the grommets on the screws start falling

apart and/or the holes in the panels become

elongated from the constant expansion and

contraction of the metal.

The water gets under the roof panel at one or

more screws, which may or may not be the same

screws where the water penetrates the

underlayment.

Fixing this kind of leak is often a hit or miss affair

where you just caulk every fastener and seam in

the area, while hanging onto whatever you can for

dear life… Not my idea of fun. And caulk isn’t a

permanent solution, in spite of what it says on the

tube. The movement of the metal eventually tears

caulk joints loose and the leaks return.

There are some types of metal roofing with no

exposed fasteners. These are called “standing

seam” panels and have the fasteners hidden under

each seam. This is much better than all those

exposed fasteners, but standing seam panels have

a commercial appearance that looks out of place

on single family homes.

There’s another inherent problem with metal roof

systems you should know about….

Some systems can be damaged by walking on

them just like tile. It happens one of two ways…

In the first case, the metal is simply too thin and

will crush under foot. For example, a well-known

company used to make an aluminum roof panel

that simulated the look of wood shakes. You’ve

probably seen the ones that were painted red and

ended up on Dairy Queens across the country.

They were pretty, but wouldn’t stand up to high

winds and foot traffic.

The other situation is when architectural metal

panels are mounted on purloins or battens instead

of a solid roof surface such as plywood. This is

done to either avoid the cost of a solid wood roof

deck or to provide an air space under the panel to

minimize condensation.

But some architectural panels can bend under foot

traffic, wrecking both their water shedding

capabilities and their appearance.

Of course, if you know where to step, you can

avoid this damage. But like walking on a tile roof,

you can’t expect everyone to know where the

”stepping stones” are.

Another problem is the life of a metal roof gets cut

short when the factory finish wears off. I’m sure

you’ve seen old barns and commercial buildings

with rusty metal roofs. They didn’t start out that

way. At one time they were painted or galvanized,

but that is only skin deep. When it wears off, it

doesn’t take long for rust to set in and start eating

the metal.

Some metal roofs are coated with a baked-on

finish that may last a long time… but the rust has a

place to start everywhere the metal is cut or

punctured by a fastener.

My opinion of metal roofing: Generally speaking,

I am not a fan, mainly due to the danger of walking

on it safely. YOU may not have to walk on your

roof, but somebody will… and THEY SHOULDN’T

HAVE TO RISK LIFE OR LIMB TO DO SO.

Metal roofing is perceived as a superior system,

but I call that a the crappy Myth”. I see it as a

second-rate system… better than tile and wood

shakes but not as good as asphalt shingles.

The perception that metal is a superior roof system

is perpetuated by people who either don’t know

much about metal or have a financial interest in

promoting it. www.macgregorroofing.com

You can do better… for less money.

If you choose metal anyway… Use a contractor

who specializes in metal roofing. This isn’t an

easy do-it-yourself project. Metal roofing requires

special tools and techniques to get a good job. The

guy who does it all the time should have the right

stuff.

If you go with metal panels, don’t use the 12-foot

lengths you get at the big home improvement

stores. Get seamless panels that are cut to the

length you need. It will reduce waste, save labor

and avoid unsightly laps in the middle of your roof.

Also, go with a system that is rigid enough for foot

traffic, regardless of where somebody steps.

Try to avoid systems that have exposed fasteners,

especially if you live in an area that gets a lot of

rain.

And consider a premium underlayment under the

roof panels for secondary protection. That will also

help to seal the screws from water that gets under

the metal. Check out Macgregor Roofing for yourself at www.macgregorroofing.com

The Real Story on Wood Shingles and Shakes.

2012-05-31T14:37:00.000-07:00

The Real Story On Wood Shingles and Shakes

Wood shingles and shakes go back to 1800's
when they were the roofing system of
choice. They are typically made from Red Cedar.
The shingles are sawn uniformly, in a few standard
sizes.
Shakes are split, creating a more rustic
appearance, but that does require an additional
course of roofing felt between each layer to help
prevent leaks.
Wood shingles and shakes can be installed on
roofs that are 3:12 and over. They are also light
weight, so they can be installed on virtually any
structure.
The benefits of wood shingles and shakes.
The big benefit these systems offer is their visual
appeal. Few things are more attractive than their
rustic appearance. They are especially beautiful
when they are still fairly new, but have weathered
into a natural gray.
The look is so attractive that all the asphalt shingle
manufacturers have architectural shingles made to
look like “weathered wood” or “cedar”.
The problems with wood shingles and shakes.
The main disadvantage with wood roofing is the
inherent fire hazard. I saw an aerial photo of a
neighborhood in California that had been struck by
a brushfire. Every home had burnt to the ground
except one. They all had wood roofs except for
the one left standing, which had a tile roof.
Brush fires aren’t the only fire hazard for wood
roofs… Sparks from a wood-burning stove or
fireplace have started many wood roofs on fire.
Insurance companies hate wood shingles and
shakes, as they have been burnt so many times
insuring them. They won’t provide coverage, or
want enormous premiums to do so.
The fire risk is so great that many areas have
outright banned wood shakes and shingles,
despite manufacturer’s attempts to make them
more fire resistant.
I’m a tad dubious on how fire-resistant they
actually are. Here’s why I say that…
The owner of a roofing company I used to work for
liked to save dump fees by burning trash that
accumulated around his warehouse and office.
Almost every day he had a bonfire, burning up old
pallets and such. I had just returned from cleaning
up my first wood shake job and had some scraps
of the “fire- resistant” material in the back of my
truck. It occurred to me to test their fire-resistance
by throwing them on the bonfire. I was amazed at
how fast they burst into flames.
Other disadvantages of wood roofing include:
They can be extremely hazardous to walk on when
wet, which it might just be when you are chasing a
leak.
Wood requires periodic cleaning and treatment to
keep it free of fungus.
Wood tends to curl and split, creating leaks. That
is a big problem in places like Florida, which has
lots of rain, immediately followed by lots of sun.
Wood shakes and shingles are expensive. On top
of a labor intensive manufacturing process, is the
shipping expense. The last ones I bought here in
Florida were trucked all the way down from
Canada.
Installing wood shakes and shingles is labor
intensive. Each one covers a fairly small area and
has to be individually positioned and installed with
two nails.
And great care must be taken to select or cut each
piece to avoid exposing nails in the course below. I
once replaced a wood shake roof that was only
three years old because the roofer screwed this
up. He had exposed nails (and leaks) all over the
place. This work is somewhat of an art and is not a
do-it-yourself friendly project.
Wood shingles and shakes also have a fairly short
life span… typically 15 years or less depending on
the climate. Combine that with high repair and
maintenance expense, and you have huge lifecycle
costs.
My opinion of wood shingles and shakes: They
may have been the best choice a century or two
ago, but their time has come and gone. I love the
look, but the fire hazard is a “Problem” that rules
them out in my book.
You can do better… for less money.
If you choose wood anyway… Go with a
contractor who specializes in wood shakes and
shingles. The correct flashing details and nail
placement are critical with this system. You want a
guy who does it all the time.
And be sure to get the type treated with fire
retardant, for whatever that’s worth. At one time I
think they just sprayed it on, but the kind to get is
the type where fire retardant is pressure treated
deep into the wood.
You are better off going with wood shingles than
shakes as they are easier to flash effectively.
Also, inquire about a premium underlayment. That
will help the system be more forgiving to any water
that gets under the wood roofing.www.macgregorroofing.com

Slate Roofing's "Dirty Secret"

2012-05-23T06:21:00.000-07:00

Slate Roofing’s “Dirty Secret”
Slate roofing is composed of slabs of rock mined
from a quarry, cut and then split. Two holes are
then made at the top of each slate for the
fasteners. Slate is available in a variety of natural
colors and also in different grades that affect their
projected roof life.
Slate can be use on roofs that have a slope of 4:12
and over, providing the roof is strong enough to
support the heavy weight. That usually requires an
engineering inspection, if the home wasn’t
originally designed for a slate roof.
Benefits of slate roofing. Slate has a distinctive
look that is very attractive, especially when it is
fairly new and all the slates are in good shape.
Slates are basically slabs of rock. As such, they
tend to last a very long time. There are slate roofs
that over 100 years old.
They also won’t burn, giving them a Class A fire
rating.
Problems with slate roofing. Slate roofs are the
most expensive roof system you can buy, with the
material alone costing more than the entire
reroofing cost for most other systems.
The price is justified by the argument that slate is a
“permanent” roof that will last for 100-plus years.
Indeed, the rock may last for a century or more,
BUT THE REST OF THE ROOF SYSTEM WILL
NOT!
Flashings and underlayment will deteriorate long
before then. Broken slates and installation errors
result in leaks, just like they do with every other
type of roofing.
When that happens on most systems, the old
roofing is removed and disposed of. Repairs to the
roof deck are made and new roofing is installed.
It’s a relatively fast and cost-effective process that
most roofing companies have down to a science.
But when slate roofs fail, the slate is so expensive,
it is often carefully removed and set aside for
reinstallation after the rest of the work is done.
Slate can become brittle as it ages and some is
damaged in the removal process.
So new slate must be found to match the natural
colors found in the quarry where it was first
mined… DECADES PREVIOUSLY. And don’t
forget the expense of shipping rock around the
country.
Salvaging the old slate is labor-intensive work and
much of the savings in material is lost in the labor
to do so. Installing slate is also labor intensive and
is somewhat of an art. It’s not a good do-it-yourself
project.
My opinion of slate roofing: While slate roofs
are very attractive, this blog is about saving you
thousands of dollars.
The “dirty little secret” with slate roofs is that while
the rock may last for a century or more, the rest of
the roof system will not.
With the high initial cost, high reroofing cost and a
roof life much less than advertised, the life-cycle
cost of slate is enormous.
You can do better… for a lot less money.
If you choose slate anyway… Say you have a
historical building where you don’t have any choice
or you have more money than you know what to
do with…
Be sure to use a roofing contractor who
specializes in slate. You want a guy who does it all
the time and knows the finer points. Most roofers
don’t have a clue about slate, because they
seldom run into it. I’ve been roofing 22 years and
have only worked on a few slate roofs.
Be open to flashing upgrades and premium
underlayments. That will help to extend the roof life
and lower your overall roof cycle costs. If you’re
going with slate, this is no place to cut corners.
www.macgregorroofing.com

Unbiased Point of View.

2012-05-16T11:55:00.003-07:00

If You Want an Unbiased Point of View,
You’ve Got the Wrong Guy!
You should know up front that I have some very
strong professional opinions about roofing
systems… and I’m going to try to steer you in that
direction! These beliefs are based on 22 years of
careful observation as to what works and what
doesn’t.
This blog is not like a trade magazine that is
obligated to promote the companies who advertise
within its pages. In fact, my recommendations will
surely annoy a large segment of the roofing
industry. If everybody followed my advice, a lot of
those guys would be selling something else for a
living. I can live with that.
And I don’t have to sell you a new roof to put food
on the table. Some people in that situation will do
or say just about anything to get the job.
My responsibility is to YOU and I don’t have a
hidden agenda. My only purpose is to help you
avoid leaks and save thousands of dollars on your
roofing expenses. If I can do that, I’ll have earned
my keep.
The systems I recommend here are the same
ones I push on my friends and family.
I recommend them for average homeowners and
also for wealthy people, who could afford much
more expensive roofing systems.
These are the systems I built my business on…
even though I could probably make a lot more
money promoting the more expensive ones!
I recommend these systems to you because I
firmly believe THEY ARE THE BEST. The fact that
they are also some of your most economical
choices should make your decision a “no-brainer”.
The roofing on your home is your first and best
defense against the elements. And it’s a decision
that you may have to live with for a very long time.
So carefully check out the benefits and problems
of each roof system you are considering. Then I
will give you my professional opinion of each one.
I will also give you some important tips to consider
if you choose to ignore it.www.macgregorroofing.com

Some Roof Slope Factors to Consider

2012-05-12T13:29:00.000-07:00

Some Slope Factors to Consider
. Safety. Again (and I can’t stress this enough)
neither you, nor workers you hire should have to
risk life and limb to work on your roof. Roofs
steeper than 6:12 are increasingly dangerous.
. Degree of Difficulty. Your roof should be
relatively simple to work on. I’m not saying it
should be easy, but it shouldn’t require scaffolding,
mechanical lifts or mountain-climbing equipment to
access your roof. Again roofs above 6:12 in slope
are the most problematic.
. Drainage. Your roof should not pond water as
dead-flat roofs do. Ponding causes leaks and
premature roof failure. Building codes, warranties
and good roofing practice all require positive
drainage. Tapered systems can correct slope
deficiency, but they are labor-intensive and pricey.
Do-it-Yourself Friendly. If you desire (or
finances dictate) that you do the roofing work
yourself, your roof should accommodate you.
Roofs that are too low or too steep are both
troublesome for the handyman. A slope of 4:12 to
6:12 is just right.. Curb-appeal. Roofs that are too steep tend to
make a home look top-heavy. (Except for Aframes,
which look great!) Roofs that are too low
tend to make a home look boxy or bottom-heavy.
Many manufactured homes have this problem.
Again 4:12 to 6:12 just looks right.
. Quantity of Material Required. The steeper
the slope, the more framing, sheathing and roofing
needed. For example a roof with a 12:12 slope
uses 30% more material than a 5:12 slope.
. Quantity of Labor Required. The steeper the
roof, the more labor required. Not only is there
more material to be installed, but it is much slower
working on steep roofs. A 12:12 slope can take
twice as long to shingle as a 5:12. A near-vertical
mansard can take four times as long.
. Compatibility. Roofing systems are designed
to function properly within a certain range of slope.
Violating these requirements invites roof failure,
and can void your warranty.
For example: “Steep-slope” roofing systems such
as asphalt shingles require at least 2:12. Many
architectural metal roofs require at least 3:12.
“Low-Slope” roofing systems such as built-up roofs
single-ply and modified bitumen are typically used
below 2:12. But quality low-sloped roofing systems
cost about double what steep-slope systems
cost… and may not last as long!
. Special Requirements. Some roofing systems
require special considerations for marginal
applications. Asphalt shingles for example, may
require a two-ply underlayment on roofs less than
4:12. That can be a pricey little add on, especially
if you’re using one of the new premium
underlayments.
. Contractor Interest. The best roofers (which
are the only kind you want) often have all the work
they want. They can afford to pass on dangerous
jobs. They don’t want to risk injuries on steep roofs
if they don’t have to.
If they bid a steep roof at all, you can expect high
prices, because they probably don’t really want the
job. However, roofing projects that fall in the 4:12
to 6:12 range are highly desirable.
www.macgregorroofing.com

A Couple Details That Save Money and Prevent Roof Leaks!

2012-05-10T11:39:00.001-07:00

Details in How To Save Money Towards Your Roof.

1. Ventilation. Attic

Ventilation is required to get the maximum life out

Of your shingles. In fact, shingle manufacturers

Reserve the right to void your warranty if you don’t

Have it. It will also lower your attic temperatures,

reducing your AC bills in summer and minimize

leak-causing ice dams in winter.

There are many different ventilating products on

the market, but aluminum ridge vents are your best

choice by far. When combined with soffit vents,

they are one of the very best ideas ever invented

for roofing.

The air in the attic heats up and rises… as hot air

likes to do. It goes all the way up to the peak and

exits out the ridge vents. That lowers the air

pressure in the attic which pulls in cooler air from

the shaded soffits. The cycle continues naturally,

cooling your attic, reducing your air conditioning

bills and prolonging the life of your shingles.

For hip roofs that don’t have enough ridge for the

proper amount of ridge venting, a good alternative

is an attic fan. They are very efficient at cooling the

attic but do cost money to operate.

Just don’t try to install one yourself unless you

know exactly what you’re doing. I knew a guy who

was electrocuted putting one in.

A good choice for the intake vents is continuous

ventilated aluminum soffit panels around the entire

house. Be aware that screening over vents

reduces their capacity by approximately 50%.

2. Eave Overhang. There are some

big advantages to having your roof overhang the

exterior walls by a foot or two.

• First off, the overhang provides a natural place

for the soffit vents, which are an important part of

the ventilation system.

• The overhang also helps to keep roof water

from running down the side of the house, causing

siding and window leaks.

• But the biggest benefit is that many roof leaks

which would otherwise be in your home doing

damage to your interior, are now outside, dripping

through the soffit, causing much less damage.

And since the leaks are on the outside of the

home, they are a lot less urgent. In fact,

sometimes a repair can be postponed until the

home is reroofed. The work can be done much

cheaper then, because all of the old roofing

material is out of the way. A thousand dollar valley

repair might cost less than a hundred dollars to fix

some rotted wood.

3. Flashings at the Walls. There is

an “L” shaped flashing that is installed wherever

there is a transition between the roof and an

adjacent wall.

This flashing typically gets buried under the roofing

and siding, so you don’t see much of it, but it

serves the important function of keeping the

transition watertight.

When it comes time for a new roof, that flashing

should be replaced if possible. It may be damaged

from rust or from the tear-off process. It’s easy to

poke a hole in the flashing while trying to scrape

off the old roofing.

However, the problem in replacing it is that the

vertical part of the flashing is buried under the

siding. Depending upon the type of siding, that can

be a big problem. And regardless of the type, most

roofers don’t like to mess with siding, especially if

they aren’t getting paid extra to do so. The result is

that many times the flashing doesn’t get replaced,

and won’t last the life of the new roof.

The best way to avoid this problem is to install a

two-piece counter flashing over the “L” flashing.

The first-piece is installed several inches up the

wall, before the siding or stucco is installed. It is

designed to receive the lower-piece after the “L”

flashing is installed.

This detail allows easy replacement of this

important flashing. It is more common on

commercial buildings, but the problem is just as

prevalent on residential ones.

Alternately, some roofers install a new “L” flashing

counter-flashed by a surface-mounted “caulkflashing”.

That can work, but it creates a couple of

additional issues:

First, stucco cracks above the caulk flashing can

allow water intrusion behind it. Also, caulk

flashings need to be monitored and maintained

periodically. That’s not the end of the world, but

wouldn’t you agree a maintenance-free detail is

better?

4. An Excellent Way to Flash Your Electric

Mast. The electric service for some homes is

provided through underground cables, but many

areas still provide it through a pipe penetrating the

roof. In the trade, that is called an electric mast

(like the mast on a ship).

On new installations, a pipe flashing is usually

installed over the mast before the electric cables

are hooked up. Unfortunately, the type that is

typically used has a rubber collar. The rubber

deteriorates after several years in the sun, creating

leaks around the pipe.

But it is better than nothing, which is ALSO a

common practice. That’s right, no flashing at all

around the pipe. The roofer just slops some

flashing cement around the mast… and somehow

it passes inspection.

When it leaks, (notice I said WHEN, not IF) it can

rot the wood around the hole. Then the heavy

weight of the electric cables can pull the mast right

over, creating a dangerous and unsightly

condition.

The main problem with installing a new flashing

around an old electric mast is the cables prevent

you from sliding the flashing over the pipe (like you

do with plumbing vent pipes).

Some roofers make a pitch pan around the pipe to

seal it. That’s basically a little metal box which is

packed with sealant. There are some permanent

sealants which will work in that application, but

more commonly the roofer will just pack the pan

with flashing cement. The cement eventually dries

out and shrinks, creating a leak. It also becomes a

maintenance task to repack the pitch pan every

year or two.

That’s not the end of the world, but there is a

better solution. Just take a lead boot (the 2” size

normally fits just right) and cut one side all the way

from the top to the bottom of the flange. Then you

can wrap the boot around the pipe.

Position the boot so the lap is on the downhill side

of the pipe. Seal the lap with a good grade of caulk

and secure the top with a stainless steel hose

clamp. Then just shingle around the pipe like you

would with any other pipe flashing.

But whatever you do, stay clear of those electric

cables… They can kill you.

5. A Clever Solution to the Dryer Vent Problem.

When a dryer is vented through the roof, it is

normally covered with a 4” goose-neck vent hood.

It’s not long before it gets clogged up with lint,

making the dryer work poorly. But these vents are

not designed to be easily serviced. Typically the

vent gets plugged up and a homeowner or

handyman tears it apart to clean it out. Then he

tries to seal the vent back up with duct tape which

fails after a few months, creating a leak. There’s a

much better way to deal with the dryer vent

problem. It costs a little bit more, but it is well worth

it. Here’s what to do…

To start with, use the 10” goose-neck vents

instead of the 4” ones. It’s a lot tougher to clog the

bigger ones. Then remove the flapper valve, if the

vent comes with one. They just rattle in the wind

and get clogged shut with lint.

And use two vents. Cut the top off one and mount

the bottom part to the roof in the normal way. Cut

the bottom off the other vent and slide it over the

first one, securing it with a few stainless steel

sheet metal screws. When the vent needs to be

cleaned out, it’s a simple matter of removing a few

screws to remove the top half.

This method will minimize how often the dryer vent

needs to be serviced… and greatly simplify the

task when it’s needed.

6. Equipment Stands. From a roofing

perspective, it’s better to leave AC units and other

mechanical equipment on the ground. It’s also a lot

less expense and hassle when that equipment

needs to be replaced.

But if it’s going to be on the roof, at least put it on

elevated equipment stands that allow enough

room under them to install and service the roofing.

You shouldn’t have to go to the expense and

inconvenience of disconnecting the equipment to

work on the roof.

Check out Macgregor Roofing at www.macgregorroofing.com

10 Roofing Hassles in Northeast Ohio

2012-05-08T17:58:00.003-07:00

If you have roofing problems, you are probably
well aware of the hassle and expense that go with
them. Unfortunately, it could be far worse that you
realize. Here are 10 ways you may be at risk:
1. High Initial Cost. When you buy or build a
home, the cost of the roof and roofing is normally
just part of the deal… and not given much thought.
But did you know that a wide variety of roof
designs and roofing systems can accommodate
the same floor plan? You could be paying much
more for your roof than necessary.
2. Roof Leaks. Ever since mankind first crawled
into caves, we have been trying to get out of the
weather. When our roofs fail us, we feel exposed
and vulnerable… in addition to the expense and
irritation factors.
3. Interior Damages. Those leaks can quickly
damage your valuable furnishings and
possessions. Carpets, furniture and drywall usually
get hit first. Computers and other electronics can
easily be destroyed. Irreplaceable family heirlooms
and artwork can be wrecked.
4. Structural Damages. Leaks that go unnoticed
or ignored can result in damage to the structure.
Deteriorated roof framing and sheathing is
common. Small problems turn into big ones.
5. Toxic Mold. Under the right conditions, mold
can start growing within 24 hours of a roof leak.
Certain types of mold are toxic… and can be very
expensive to eliminate. In severe cases the interior
may need to be gutted down to the bare framing!
6. Unsightly Roof Repairs. Attempts to repair
the leaks can leave your roof with nasty blemishes.
Those scars hurt the curb appeal of your home
and announce to the world you have had roof
problems.
7. Loss of Property Value. Appraisers see all
those nasty roof repairs and downgrade the value
of your home based on condition.
Home inspectors notice roofing problems in the
attic, scaring off buyers (or cause them to lower
their offers).
And then you find out that insurance companies
report roof leaks to a national database. They are
reluctant to take on mold liability, so home buyers
may not be able to get affordable insurance. Since
banks insist on insurance to protect their
investment, financing options may be more
limited… and more expensive.
This all results in a less desirable property for
buyers… and lower property value for you.
8. Premature Roof failure. Nobody wants to
keep putting up with roof leaks, so many people
bite the bullet and opt for a new roof… long before
the old roofing is actually worn out.
9. Expensive Reroofing. When that reroofing
decision finally comes, many people pay far more
than they should. They choose roofing systems
that cost much more, yet under-perform their other
options.
10. Roofing Hazards. As if all the expense and
trouble is not enough, some roofing conditions are
just down-right dangerous. Every year, thousands
of people are injured and property damage is in
the millions.
www.macgregorroofing.com

Roofing in northeast ohio

2012-05-02T13:01:00.000-07:00

macgregorroofing.com Roof Repairs are being done in the Mentor area today.

2012-05-01T19:57:00.000-07:00

Macgregor Roofing completed a new Roof in Mentor on the Lake. This was a complete Tear off and re roof. There was 20 sheets of plywood replaced and new seamless gutters installed. Macgregor roofing works in Mentor, Willoughby and surrounding areas. Here is are link Macgregorroofing.com