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	<title>Roofing, Siding &#38; Home Renovations</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog</link>
	<description>(919) 380-0670 Cary, NC</description>
	<pubDate>Sat, 19 Nov 2011 16:16:08 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Raleigh Kitchen Cabinet and Kitchen Remodeling Information</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/raleigh-kitchen-cabinet.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/raleigh-kitchen-cabinet.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Nov 2011 02:33:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Maintenance Plans]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=285</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Step 1-Design your kitchen 
You should develop your project dreams/desires and come to an  agreement within your family of generally what the &#8220;Big Picture&#8221; will  look like when the project is completed-  We can provide typical ideas  with photos and advice if you prefer.
Step 2-Research fixtures and appliances 
You should research plumbing [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Step 1-Design your kitchen </strong></p>
<p>You should develop your project dreams/desires and come to an  agreement within your family of generally what the &#8220;Big Picture&#8221; will  look like when the project is completed-  We can provide typical ideas  with photos and advice if you prefer.</p>
<p><strong>Step 2-Research fixtures and appliances </strong></p>
<p>You should research plumbing and lighting fixtures and appliances  (sinks, faucets, disposals, dishwasher, range, hood, refrigerators,  compactors, warming trays. ice makers, ceiling lighting, wall lighting,  over cabinet and under counter lighting, etc.) and make selections on  brand, style, color, and provide a model number and retail cost, if  possible, so we can compare wholesale pricing-  Often on line shopping  can give you some great ideas and pricing; but there may be shipping  costs and delays that a local provider may alleviate.  We can provide  suggested sources for all these items if you prefer.</p>
<p><strong>Step 3-Research flooring, countertops, and backsplash materials </strong></p>
<p>You should research hardwoods, laminate or vinyl floor options, tile  and grout choices  (floor, wall, backsplash, deco borders, accent  tiles, etc.), and countertop materials and make selections on brand,  style, color, and retail cost-  We can provide suggested sources for all  these items if you prefer.<br />
<strong><br />
Step 4-Research paint </strong><br />
You should research paint colors and select, wall, trim, and ceiling  colors and textures-   We can provide suggested sources for these items  if you prefer.</p>
<p><strong>Step 5-Select your cabinetry </strong></p>
<p>We&#8217;ll arrange for the cabinetmaker to meet with you and discuss  cabinetry design, door style, glides, pulls, knobs, hardware, and  develop a 3D computerized drawing of the finished room and products for  your review.  There may be a design fee for this service.</p>
<p><strong>Step 6- Project Pricing/Work Order Creation </strong></p>
<p>Once all the project decisions have been made, we&#8217;ll price the job  and prepare a detailed Work Order listing the work to be performed, by  trade, for your review with pricing by function, bearing in mind your  stated budget price range.  Here is where you prioritize your strongest  wishes to ensure that they are included in the project.</p>
<p>If needed, we&#8217;ll edit this document with you as many times as you  request until we come to a Work Order listing that specifies exactly  what you request, and exactly what our charges will be.  We don&#8217;t like  surprises; and neither should you when it comes to having a complete and  clear understanding of what is to be provided and what the costs will  be for the project.<br />
<strong><br />
Step 7-Contract Acceptance/Payment Schedule Development- </strong></p>
<p>At this point, we&#8217;ll agree on a payment schedule.  We usually don&#8217;t  ask for any payment in advance unless you request a special order item  that cannot be returned.   We will ask for you to pay for an initial  deposit (draw) with the signed Work Order and from then on will request  payment for &#8220;work in place&#8221; after it is completed to your satisfaction.</p>
<p>We are quite flexible on payments; but they are important to keep the project moving and on schedule.</p>
<p>Examples of a typical project payment schedule include:</p>
<ul>
<li>&#8220;Initial Draw&#8221;  -  a deposit with the signed Work Order  and for special order items if applicable (custome cabinetry or  non-stock fixtures)</li>
<li>&#8220;Rough-In Draw&#8221;  - after the behind the wall/floor work has been completed and inspections passed</li>
<li>&#8220;Surface Completion Draw&#8221;  - after floor tile and painting is completed</li>
<li>&#8220;Fixture &amp; Trades Trim Draw&#8221;  -  after the cabinetry, fixtures, and lighting is installed and functioning</li>
<li>&#8220;Final Draw&#8221;  - after the Final Inspection has been  performed, a Certificate of Occupancy has been granted, we &#8220;Walk the  Job&#8221; with you and ensure your satisfaction with every aspect of our work  on the project</li>
</ul>
<p>Remodeling has its challenges for your family with noise, debris,  interruption of your family routine, etc.  We do our best to minimize  these challenges and make remodeling FUN so you can enjoy the finished  product.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Roofing Projects - How we manage them</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/roofing-projects-how-we-manage-them.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/roofing-projects-how-we-manage-them.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 13:13:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Roofing & Roof Repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=281</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Site inspection and planning-with materials staged on site (usually 24 hours before installation)
Property landscape preparation and erection of protective measures prior to roofing material removal
Demolition begins for tear off all roofing materials with debris accumulation and removal &#8220;on going&#8221; throughout the project
Examination and inspection of sheathing condition followed by installation of specified underlayment- ice guard [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ol>
<li>Site inspection and planning-with materials staged on site (usually 24 hours before installation)</li>
<li>Property landscape preparation and erection of protective measures prior to roofing material removal</li>
<li>Demolition begins for tear off all roofing materials with debris accumulation and removal &#8220;on going&#8221; throughout the project</li>
<li>Examination and inspection of sheathing condition followed by installation of specified underlayment- ice guard is used in all valleys</li>
<li>Pre-Roofing preparation, layout, and planning of starter shingles, intersections, and valley coursing</li>
<li>Shingle installation in strict compliance with the manufacturer&#8217;s installation instructions</li>
<li>A complete quality assurance &#8220;on the roof&#8221; inspection of all crew installation techniques and performance installation of all shingles, flashings, and vents is performed on EVERY project by supervisory personnel</li>
</ol>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Seamless Rain Gutters - 10 Ways to Protect Your Home</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/seamless-rain-gutters-protect-your-home.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/seamless-rain-gutters-protect-your-home.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Sep 2011 21:44:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Maintenance Plans]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=278</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
MOISTURE CONTROL
Keep basements, crawl spaces, and garages, dry and free of conditions that support mold and wood fungi growth by controlling roof drainage.
FOUNDATION PROTECTION
Limit the movement of active zone soils underneath the foundation by reducing the amount of water that enters at the foundation wall.
PROTECT BACK-FILL
Top soil around the foundation is the weakest link in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ol>
<li>MOISTURE CONTROL<br />
Keep basements, crawl spaces, and garages, dry and free of conditions that support mold and wood fungi growth by controlling roof drainage.</li>
<li>FOUNDATION PROTECTION<br />
Limit the movement of active zone soils underneath the foundation by reducing the amount of water that enters at the foundation wall.</li>
<li>PROTECT BACK-FILL<br />
Top soil around the foundation is the weakest link in foundation moisture control. Preventing topsoil erosion can help prevent future structural damage.</li>
<li>PROTECT WINDOWS AND DOORS<br />
Most durability issues arise from bulk water intrusion through windows and doors. Roof drainage will direct water away from sensitive areas.</li>
<li>PROTECT PLANTS AND SHRUBS<br />
Standing water in flower beds around the home can permit harmful plant fungi to develop as well as attract ants, roaches, and termites.</li>
<li>PROTECT FASCIA<br />
Water migration may cause rotting and insects can cause damage that can be costly to repair. Quickly moving water away from rafter and roof joints is essential to a homes long term durability.</li>
<li>INCREASE ROOF OVERHANG<br />
Rain gutters can add up to 6” of protective roof overhang providing additional shielding of windows and doors, improving drying times and moisture levels.</li>
<li>PREVENTS SPLASH-BACK<br />
Rain gutters keep siding and masonry looking new by preventing splash back of dirt, grass, and minerals that stain the exterior and can be difficult removing over time.</li>
<li>DECORATIVE DETAIL<br />
Rain gutters can accentuate the architecture of any home. They are available in various styles, metals and colors. Rain gutters are for looks and function.</li>
<li>RAINWATER COLLECTION<br />
Collecting rain water is the simplest way to water your lawn, plants, and foundation all the while contributing to Water Conservation.</li>
</ol>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How do you find a reputable remodeling contractor?</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/how-do-you-find-a-reputable-remodeling-contractor.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/how-do-you-find-a-reputable-remodeling-contractor.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:37:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Doing business with us]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=269</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The very best advice in choosing a contractor is to &#8220;do your homework.&#8221; 
An experienced remodeling contractor should have hundreds of  customers who can answer simple questions to help you make a selection.
We encourage folks to go and see previous projects.  Most former customers are anxious to share their experiences with others.
Ask basic questions [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The very best advice in choosing a contractor is to <strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">&#8220;do your homework.&#8221; </span></strong></p>
<p>An experienced remodeling contractor should have hundreds of  customers who can answer simple questions to help you make a selection.</p>
<p>We encourage folks to go and see previous projects.  Most former customers are anxious to share their experiences with others.</p>
<p>Ask basic questions like:</p>
<ul>
<li>&#8220;Would you hire this contractor/company again?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;Was the final price charged the quoted price?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;Was the project completed in a timely manner?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;How were changes in the scope of work handled?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;Was your property properly protected, cleaned, and treated with respect throughout the project?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;Did you verify that the contractor was licensed, insured, and that proper permits and inspections were performed?&#8221;</li>
<p></p>
<li>&#8220;Were you and your family comfortable with the crew members who worked on your home?&#8221;</li>
<p>
</ul>
<p>Let&#8217;s face it; there are LOTS of handymen, contractors, and  companies who actively advertise their services and make lots of  promises.</p>
<p><strong>Past performance is a good indicator of future behavior.</strong> A wide  customer base of satisfied customers is the best predictor of  performance in your home.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What should it cost to have my home painted???</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/what-should-it-cost-to-have-my-home-painted.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/what-should-it-cost-to-have-my-home-painted.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:29:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Siding and Trim]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=265</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[What should a typical cost be (per square foot) to repaint my house?
There are several factors that are important factors to answer your question.
1)  How much preparation of the surfaces is required?
Is the current paint solid?  Is the substrate firm and not water  damaged?  Are there blisters, cracks, or is there any peeling of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>What should a typical cost be (per square foot) to repaint my house?</strong></p>
<p>There are several factors that are important factors to answer your question.</p>
<p>1)  How much preparation of the surfaces is required?</p>
<p>Is the current paint solid?  Is the substrate firm and not water  damaged?  Are there blisters, cracks, or is there any peeling of the  paint?</p>
<p>2) Are all areas of your home accessible?  How many stories high is your home?</p>
<p>Taller houses that are difficult to access require more set-up time  and therfore increased costs.  If additional aerial equipment is  required there is additional cost.</p>
<p>3)  Are there wall areas that are difficult to access?</p>
<p>Any areas of your home above shingled roofs on an unwalkable pitch  may require scaffolding and staging or aerial equipment to gain access.</p>
<p>I<strong>t seems that prices are so expensive I want to be sure I am not taken advantage of.</strong></p>
<p>We would be pleased to provide a written estimate to repaint your  home.  You may feel free to compare our price with anyone you wish.  We  compete on quality using our premium products and superior  craftsmanship.  If you are seeking the lowest price, you will not select  our company.  There is always someone who will paint your home for a  lower price.</p>
<p><strong>What is the difference in having one coat versus two coats?</strong></p>
<p>We only use Sherwin Williams premium paints.  These paints offer  excellent adhesion, UV degradation protection, and extreme durability.   In our climate, most homeowners repaint every 7 to 10 years.  These  products provide the manufacturer&#8217;s warranty against cracking, peeling,  blistering or fading.</p>
<p><strong>Spray or roll and why?</strong></p>
<p>Does your home have lap siding?  T1-11 wood panels?  Brick veneer?   Cement-fiberglass siding?   Is your siding type composition hardboard  siding? (Masonite)  Different materials are better suited to different  application methods.  We advise as to the best suited method, but  ultimately the customer&#8217;s preference determines the method which also  may affect the cost.</p>
<p>Detailed dental moldings or soffit treatments are almost always  best suited for spray techniques.  Confined areas are better suited for  application using a brush.  Rough surfaces are better suited for  application with a thick roller.</p>
<p>If you have other questions, please contact our office.   We&#8217;d be  pleased to make an appointment at your convenience to assess your needs  and provide additional recommendations.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Raleigh Siding Contractor - Hardie vs Masonite</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/raleigh-siding-contractor-hardie-vs-masonite.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/raleigh-siding-contractor-hardie-vs-masonite.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 13:25:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Maintenance Plans]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Siding and Trim]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=260</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Here&#8217;s my two cents worth of wisdom on How to Maintain the exterior of your home in the Southeastern United States . . . . . . .
1-The James Hardie Corporation, Certainteed, and others all manufacturer &#8220;fiber-cement&#8221; siding products available in siding laps, panels, or shakes to match almost every profile previously made by every [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="moz-text-html" lang="x-western"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"></p>
<div id="post_message_15541322">Here&#8217;s my two cents worth of wisdom on How to Maintain the exterior of your home in the Southeastern United States . . . . . . .</p>
<p>1-The James Hardie Corporation, Certainteed, and others all manufacturer &#8220;fiber-cement&#8221; siding products available in siding laps, panels, or shakes to match almost every profile previously made by every &#8220;composition hardboard&#8221;  (Masonite) manufacturer.</p>
<p>2-When comparing the two products, bear in mind that composition hardboard is made in 16 foot lengths; whereas most fiber-cement lap siding is limited to 12 foot lengths. Care must be taken in handling both products to ensure that they are not damaged prior to installation.</p>
<p>3-All siding should be &#8220;sealed&#8221; at butt joints and intersections with the best caulk anyone should ever purchase. It is made by Duron/Sherwin-Wiliams under the name MaxFlex, a 100% acrylic elasto-meric sealant warranted for 60 YEARS, that is flexible enough to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity of our climate. (Disclaimer: I do not work for the Duron/Sherwin-Williams Corporation; but we use their premium products almost exclusively; purchasing amounts in the tens of thousands of dollars each year.</p>
<p>4-To properly maintain ANY siding, it is a good idea to trim shrubs and trees away from siding and from overhanging roofs a minimum of 20 inches (the length from your elbow to fingertips) to keep splashing rain off the siding and to allow air circulation so the siding can dry out to avoid creating an environment for mildew to flourish.</p>
<p>5-Install a moisture barrier (TyVek) behind all siding, taped at joints and at window and door flashings-</p>
<p>6-Install siding &#8220;joint flashing&#8221; (#15 felt) strips at each butt joint-</p>
<p>7-Prime all new work with a premium primer, regardless of what others advise about a &#8220;factory&#8221; applied primer, if you want the new paint to adhere properly-</p>
<p>8-Apply two coats of Duron/Sherwin-Williams premium paint to all new work-</p>
<p>9-Professionally chemically treat and pressure clean the residence exterior once every three years (the secret to effectiveness is in the correct chemicals that contain an algaecide, mildewcide, fungicide, detergent, and mold and mildew growth inhibitor); using your garden hose to rinse dirt off in the Spring and Fall of alternate years when you don&#8217;t professionally treat with chemicals and pressure clean.</p>
<p>Following these recommendations on methods and materials will provide years of protection and maintain an attractive appearance for your home. We&#8217;re too busy working on other folks&#8217; homes and really don&#8217;t have time for a lot of personal home maintenance. These methods are how our crews worked on my personal home almost a DECADE ago and everything still looks great!</p>
<p>Do it once. Do it right. Take pride in your home&#8217;s exterior and protect it from sun and water damage and you will reap the benefits of a substantial savings in home maintenance expense. Take advantage of what is offered by experienced folks and you will be pleased with the results.</p></div>
<p></span></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>12 Things you should know when selecting a Siding Contractor</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/12-things-you-should-know-when-selecting-a-siding-contractor.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/12-things-you-should-know-when-selecting-a-siding-contractor.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 13:20:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>trent</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Siding and Trim]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=250</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Our proposals outline our methods for siding replacement that involves:  old siding demolition,  debris transportation and landfill fees, new cement-fiberglass siding installation to match existing siding and it is at that point our listing probably varies from other contractors&#8217; proposals.
1- We are NC Licensed Building Contractors licensed by the North Carolina Licensing Board for General [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Our proposals outline our methods for siding replacement that involves:  old siding demolition,  debris transportation and landfill fees, new cement-fiberglass siding installation to match existing siding and it is at that point our listing probably varies from other contractors&#8217; proposals.</div>
<div>1-<span> </span>We are NC Licensed Building Contractors licensed by the North Carolina Licensing Board for General Contractors.  Our license is #65565.  Obtaining a license requires successful completion of a state examination, continuous compliance with standards set by the state, and annually meeting the financial working capital requirements.  J. Trent &amp; Associates has numerous NC Licensed Building Contractors available to meet the needs of customers.  J. Trent has been a contractor for over 30 years involved in both commercial and residential construction.</div>
<div>2-<span> </span>We hold a Town of Cary Privilege License #12175.  This means that we are &#8220;on record&#8221;&#8216; with the town as conducting business within their jurisdiction and pay the required annual fees and taxes as a result.   This license authorizes us to conduct business within the Town of Cary&#8217;s municipal jurisdiction according to their ordinances and regulations. When working in other municipalities, we obtain privilege licenses as required.   J. Trent lives in Cary and has done business in Cary for the past 17 years.</div>
<div>3-<span> </span>We provide $1M in liability insurance to protect our customers.  Upon request, we will authorize our insurance agent to provide a certificate that specifies the amount and coverage, coverage time periods, and the active status of our various insurances.  We caution customers not to accept this documentation directly from any contractor.  It must come DIRECTLY from the insurance agent to ensure accuracy and validity of current coverage.</div>
<div>4-<span> </span>We make application, pay the required fees, request inspections, and receive both a Certificate of Completion and a Certificate of Occupancy for all projects that require permitting.  Under most circumstances within the jurisdiction of Cary or Apex, a Building Permit is required for siding replacement.  A Building Permit requires that an inspection be performed prior to the approval of the work.  According to the Town of Cary&#8217;s Building Inspections Department, to replace ANY siding of ANY amount within the Town limits of Cary now requires a Building Permit and a Building Moisture Protection barrier (housewrap/TyVek) inspection.  In Apex, siding repairs that exceed $5,000 require a Building Permit and inspections.</div>
<div>We will not risk our licenses; and therefore our livelihood, by circumventing these requirements; so please don&#8217;t ask.</div>
<div>5-<span> </span>We inspect the condition of the wall sheathing before installing the house wrap.  We will not cover up a problem before correcting it.  There may be an additional charge for wall sheathing replacement.</div>
<div>6-<span> </span>We apply a coat of primer to all products as required by the manufacturer.  We have learned that a tinted primer applied to the new product allows better and more even paint coverage of the selected paint product.   We recommend the Duron and Sherwin Williams (now merged as the same company) premium paint products.  Their product warranty is exceptional and we have never had a problem with any warranty claim for poor performance of their products.</div>
<div>7-<span> </span>For premium, long lasting results, we usually apply two coats of the very best Duron/Sherwin Williams Paint available which offers their Lifetime Warranty.  We ONLY use Duron MaxFlex 60 year sealants.</div>
<div>8-<span> </span>We will only remove as much of the old siding as we can protectively &#8220;wrap&#8221; at a time with the house wrap to provide a weather barrier until the new siding can be replaced.  It is not quite as efficient to work this way; but it accomplishes our goal of providing maximum protection for you and your home.  Other contractors frequently strip the whole house and leave it exposed while the new siding is installed.  If inclement weather occurs there is a potential for sheathing and insulation damage without the house wrap in place.  We do not engage in this practice.</div>
<div>9-<span> </span>We only ask that you pay us for work and materials that are &#8220;in place&#8221;.  We do not ask for an advance payment unless a non-returnable, special order item is selected for your project.</div>
<div>10- To assist our customers with budgeting we are willing to divide the siding replacement project into stages and replace one-fourth or one-half the project now and the remainder at a future time.</div>
<div>11-<span> </span>Without additives, we will only apply paint when the surface of the surface that is being painted is above 50 degrees.  These conditions can be present every month of the year in our geographic area in direct sunlight; even when the air temperature is much lower.</div>
<div>12-<span> </span>There are always handymen and contractors who may price a project for less.  Contractors all pay pretty much the same amount for quality materials.  If you accept more than one quote, be sure that the same materials are being used for comparison purposes.   We do receive preferred pricing on some materials due to volume purchasing and pass those savings on to customers when available.  The difference in pricing most projects is in the personnel costs, training and supervision and the care exercised to produce a quality finished product.</div>
<div>We only do things the right way and we only do them once.  We take great pride in our craftsmanship and look forward to the finished project to showcase our performance.</div>
<div>We always love to answer questions and teach customers about quality construction techniques.   Feel free to call with any questions that you might have regarding siding or any other home maintenance issue.</div>
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		<title>What is a Moisture Barrier and Why do I need one?</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/moisture-barrier.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/moisture-barrier.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:44:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Roofing & Roof Repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=233</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For many years, new home builders would wrap the wall sheathing of every home with #15 roofing felt before they installed the siding or brick veneer.  My dad built this way all his life and never had a problem with water penetrating the wall sheathing and causing damage.
Then, for some reason, there was a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For many years, new home builders would wrap the wall sheathing of every home with #15 roofing felt before they installed the siding or brick veneer.  My dad built this way all his life and never had a problem with water penetrating the wall sheathing and causing damage.</p>
<p>Then, for some reason, there was a change in the thinking and builders discontinued wrapping houses in felt.  I know that many new scientific advances made houses more energy efficient efficient over the years and now are much easier to heat and cool.  But I never could figure out why the protective felt was omitted.  Then I remembered my dad&#8217;s words once when I asked him why a previous carpenter had constructed a particular feature on one of our projects.</p>
<p>I remember him saying, &#8220;Son, in life, in politics, in building, and in knowing a man&#8217;s heart:   <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>follow the money</strong></span>.&#8221;</p>
<p>At the time I did not fully understand the impact of those words.  In life, why do people do what they do?  In many situations its for the money.  In politics the same is true and in the case of construction unfortunately it applies as well.</p>
<p>If it requires more material, more labor, more travel time, more attention to detail then it requires more money.  More money spent in building a new home means less profit.  Follow the money.  That is why a great deal of construction is of poor quality. If you cut corners, save time, save materials that means more profit.</p>
<p>A protective moisture barrier allows water vapor to pass from inside your home to the exterior.  But it will not allow water to pass from the exterior to the inside.  Kinda like a one way valve that serves one purpose when operated in one direction and a totally different purpose when operated in another direction.</p>
<p>If a house has composition hardboard siding (Masonite, Champion, Georgia-Pacific, Louisiana Pacific, Weyerhaeuser, Certainteed, Abitibi, etc.) then it just makes sense to me that there should be a protective membrane behind the siding to prevent water penetration.  Unfortunately not all contractors think that way and there are literally MILLIONS of homes with composite siding (Masonite) made of paper, wood, sawdust, glue, with a thin outer membrane covering homes all over the country.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, for any of these products to give a reasonable service life, many particular conditions would have to have been followed:</p>
<ol>
<li>The framing must stay dry (a rare occurrence in the construction industry)</li>
<li>Moisture protective membrane should be installed (felt or Tyvek)</li>
<li>The siding was properly installed (nails not overdriven or underdriven)</li>
<li>The framing did not shrink (pulling the nail heads through the outer protective membrane which allows water entry)</li>
<li>A high quality caulk was used to seal openings in the siding (not the builder&#8217;s grade)</li>
<li>The siding was properly primed (many painting contractors applied paint directly to the factory product without primer)</li>
<li>A high quality paint was used to provide UV and water protection (not usually specified because of additional cost)</li>
<li>The siding was properly painted</li>
<li>Siding was periodically chemically treated and pressure cleaned (to prevent mold and mildew)</li>
<li>Window, door, fixture, and roof flashings were properly installed to prevent water entry</li>
</ol>
<p>After sheathing, contractors are supposed to install Tyvek (or competitive brand) house wrap, tape the seams, and flash all the wall penetrations to prevent water entry.  In our area, an inspection by the local municipality is required before siding can be installed.</p>
<p>Follow the money.  If you do things right the first time, you may save a little money; but more than likely will pay even more when the project is corrected.</p>
<p><img class="size-full wp-image-241 alignnone" title="remove-siding" src="http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/remove-siding.jpeg" alt="remove-siding" width="240" height="320" /></p>
<p>Here is an example of wall sheathing damage to the interior and the exterior corner of this chimney chase. Note the black stains/rot on the OSB wall sheathing.</p>
<p><img class="size-full wp-image-239 alignnone" title="repair-siding" src="http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/repair-siding.jpeg" alt="repair-siding" width="240" height="320" /></p>
<div><span><br />
</span></div>
<div>With the cornerboard removed, the water damage is obvious.</div>
<div><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-234" title="install-siding" src="http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/install-siding.jpeg" alt="install-siding" width="240" height="320" /></div>
<div>The damage affects almost 100% of almost all the corners.</div>
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		<title>Should I close the crawlspace vents of my home?</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/should-i-close-the-crawlspace-vents-of-my-home.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/should-i-close-the-crawlspace-vents-of-my-home.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Dec 2009 05:15:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>trent</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Maintenance Plans]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=230</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The bottom line here is that each homeowner has to take the information provided, examine the source for validity, and make a determination of what is best for them.
In an average year, we are in more than 100 crawlspaces. I have been crawling around in them throughout my 30 year construction career and have seen [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="post_message_11443526">The bottom line here is that each homeowner has to take the information provided, examine the source for validity, and make a determination of what is best for them.</p>
<p>In an average year, we are in more than 100 crawlspaces. I have been crawling around in them throughout my 30 year construction career and have seen just about every possible scenario there is.</p>
<p>My house is over 40 years old and was built on a foundation with piers. The foundation vents are closed, blocked with 1&#8243; foil faced polystyrene, and sealed with expanding foam and sealants. Humidity-laden air no longer enters through the foundation vents. There is 100% coverage of the dirt area with 6 mil clear polyethylene that is staked to the ground with landscape staples, sealed at the seams with Tyvek tape, and secured to the walls with PVC lathe.  All was accomplished on a Saturday for less than a few hundred dollars spent for materials.</p>
<p>There is no moisture, no mold, no mildew and it is quite clean and cozy when access is needed for appliance, electrical or plumbing repair/modification. If this minimal correction was not effective, we would have installed a dehumidifier with a controller that monitors temperature, relative humidity, and water vapor to increase the effectiveness of our efforts.</p>
<p>You can have a totally sealed and conditioned crawlspace for thousands of dollars; but rarely is that level of attention and expense required if you manage the conditions by other means. Each person has to determine what is best for their situation. The methods described above work perfectly for me and my situation.</p>
<p>Us old guys really don&#8217;t intend to be cheerleaders or beat a differing opinion over the head with a stick. We just share what we know from our experience and let others decide for themselves.</p>
<p>J. Trent</p></div>
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		<title>What do I do about mold or mildew in my crawlspace?  How do I find a mold remediation company I can trust?</title>
		<link>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/what-do-i-do-about-mold-or-mildew-in-my-crawlspace-how-do-i-find-a-mold-remediation-company-i-can-trust.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/what-do-i-do-about-mold-or-mildew-in-my-crawlspace-how-do-i-find-a-mold-remediation-company-i-can-trust.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Dec 2009 04:20:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>trent</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Maintenance Plans]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[crawlspace vapor barrier]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[dehumidifier]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[humidity]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[mildew]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[mold]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[sealed crawlspace]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jtrentassociates.com/blog/?p=214</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There are many companies that are in the &#8220;mold remediation&#8221; business.  Techniques  for &#8220;remediation&#8221; vary between companies and geographical locations.  Unfortunately, only a few of these companies are reputable.


If you have a concern with mold, mildew, spores, fungi, etc., we recommend that you engage the services of an Industrial Hygienist, a trained scientist who specializes [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">There are many companies that are in the &#8220;mold remediation&#8221; business.  Techniques  for &#8220;remediation&#8221; vary between companies and geographical locations.  Unfortunately, only a few of these companies are reputable.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">If you have a concern with mold, mildew, spores, fungi, etc., we recommend that you engage the services of an Industrial Hygienist, a trained scientist who specializes in this area.  An Industrial Hygienist tests for bio-aerosols (mold, dust mites, fungi, spores and pollen) but, will not remediate these problems.  They investigate and report their findings.  There is no conflict of interest to try and sell you a product or a service to solve your problem.  They simply report their findings.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Almost every home has mold.  In the Southeast, our high Summer humidity levels make this almost a certainty.  If someone tells you that is not the truth, then they are mistaken and do not understand the science involved.  An Industrial Hygienist can test and report mold almost on any surface during any season of the year.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">In my opinion, sanding floor joists to remove mold spores is a bad idea.  If you have a significant problem and intervention is necessary, we recommend cleaning floor joists in your crawlspace by media blasting using dry ice.  This method requires no environmental harm or debris clean up.  Then, the joists are treated with an inhibitor and NOTHING will ever grow on them again.  Do it once, do it right, don&#8217;t do it again.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Environmental problems in your crawlspace should be addressed by paying attention to temperature and humidity; the key ingredients for bio-aerosol growth.  These organisms can grow on almost any surface.  By appropriately managing temperature and humidity, you can regulate this environment and prevent this problem.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Are you considering hiring  a specialized company to seal your crawlspace ?  You could save a significant amount by spot treating any areas of mold bloom, treating the entire wood floor system with an inhibitor, and installing a vapor barrier to prevent moisture evaporation from the soil.   In some cases a dehumidifer may be required to reduce relative humidity and remove moisture  from your crawlspace.  This is low tech, low time requirement, and low cost.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">There are companies who will charge you tens of thousands of dollars to install all kinds of crawlspace systems with the promise of solving this problem.  In my opinion, rarely is this needed.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><br />
</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">You can learn a great deal about some studies that have been conducted on this topic at www.crawlspaces.org.</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Here is some additional information published by NCSU and the NC Extension Service that you might find helpful.</span></span></div>
<div>
<h1><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Mold, dust mites, fungi, spores, and pollen:<br />
Bioaerosols in the human environment</span></span></h1>
<h3><span style="color: #000000; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">What are bioaerosols?</span></span></span></h3>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">A healthy indoor environment is important to you and your family. This includes keeping the air free of biological contaminants, which can cause health problems. Scientists call these airborne contaminants </span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">bioaerosols.</span></span></em></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<h3><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000000; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Can bioaerosols cause health problems?</span></span></span></h3>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">They can cause severe health problems. Some, like viruses and bacteria, cause infections (like a cold or pneumonia). Others cause allergies. Both allergic responses and infections may be serious or even fatal.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">An allergic reaction occurs when a substance provokes formation of antibodies in a susceptible person. We call substances which will cause an allergic reaction in some people</span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">antigens</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> or </span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">allergens.</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> Bioaerosols may cause allergic reactions on the skin or in the respiratory tract. Rashes, hay fever, asthma (tightness in the chest, difficulty in breathing), and runny noses are common allergic reactions.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">A few people develop a severe allergic reaction in the lung, which can destroy lung tissue. This is called </span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">hypersensitivity pneumonitis.</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> It is not an infection, but repeated episodes can lead to infections of the lung, such as bacterial pneumonia.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Hypersensitivity pneumonitis can be triggered by exposure to very small amounts of the allergen, once a person is sensitive to it. Symptoms can range from tightness in the chest, cough, and difficulty in breathing, to low-grade fever, muscle aches, and headaches.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<h3><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000000; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">What are sources of bioaerosols in the home?</span></span></span></h3>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Molds, mildews, bacteria, and dust mites like the same conditions that we do&#8211;warmth and moderate to high humidity. They need little more than a constant moisture supply for survival. You may find bacteria, molds, and mildews in air conditioning equipment, humidifier reservoirs, dehumidifier drip pans, shower heads, toilets, and ice machines. Water damaged carpets, ceiling panels, walls, and paneling are prime sites for new growth if they are allowed to stay damp. When molds, mildew, dust mites, and bacteria are disrupted or release their spores into the air, this results in bioaerosol formation.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Molds and mildews develop from spores, which are in the air all around you. As soon as spores settle in an area with the right conditions for growth, they establish colonies, which are often visible to the naked eye. These colonies are a source of more spores, can cause unsightly stains, and may release low levels of toxic chemicals called </span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">mycotoxins</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> into the air.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Humidifiers are such a common source of bioaeorsols that cause health problems that doctors now use the term </span></span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">humidifier fever.</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> Protozoa, amoebas, and strains of bacteria have been found in humidifiers, and these are readily released into the air with the moisture produced by humidifiers. These have been linked to allergic responses in sensitive people.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Mold and mildew may be found in the ductwork of your heating or cooling systems. If there are leaks in the ductwork, or places where moisture and outside air get into the system, mold and mildew can grow. Sometimes they are found in the coils of an air conditioner or in the connection between the unit and the ductwork. Moisture problems are worse where ductwork insulation is on the inside as opposed to the outside of the duct. The insulation&#8217;s porous surface collects dust and moisture. Mold and mildew may also grow on dirty furnace and air conditioning filters. Plumbing leaks and dampness in attics, basements, and crawl spaces can increase humidity inside your home and promote the growth of agents that will be released as bioaerosols. Bathrooms without outside-vented exhaust fans, combustion appliances like kerosene space heaters, drying laundry indoors, and venting clothes dryers to attics or crawl spaces can also increase the humidity levels in your home.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Dust mites and their waste products are the most common allergens in indoor air. Dust mites eat human and pet skin (dander) as it is shed. It has been estimated that we shed about seven million cells per minute! Dust mites live in rugs and carpets, sheets, mattresses and pillows, and upholstered furniture. Ten to 15 percent of people are allergic to dust mites. Of the people who have other allergies, 40 percent are also allergic to dust mites.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<h3><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000000; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">What measures can be taken to control bioaerosols in the home?</span></span></span></h3>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">First, lower the relative humidity in your home, basement or crawl space, and attic. Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air at a given temperature. You may want to seeIdentifying and Correcting Moisture Problems in Homes. The humidity fluctuates in your home, depending on:</span></span></span></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">How warm or cool the air is indoors.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">How many moisture-producing activities (drying clothes indoors, showers) are taking place.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Whether there is a constant source of moisture (leaks, damp foundations and attics).</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">How much moisture is being vented to the outside.</span></span></span></strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">If you can keep relative humidity below 50 percent, you can reduce problems with dust mites, mold, and mildew. A hygrometer can be used to measure indoor humidity levels. You can buy a hygrometer from some nursery or garden stores, and from hardware stores.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">There is little medical research supporting the use of a humidifier, so try to avoid using one. If your home is extremely dry and you must use a humidifier, a steam vaporizer or warm mist humidifier causes fewer problems. Do not humidify indoor air to a relative humidity level higher than 50 percent.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Ultrasonic and cool mist (impeller-type) humidifiers can send microorganisms from their water tanks into the air. Ultrasonic humidifiers use sound vibrations to create a cool mist. Impeller humidifiers create a cool mist by means of a high-speed rotating disk. If you do use a humidifier:</span></span></span></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Empty the tank, wipe all surfaces dry, and refill the water in portable humidifiers each day.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Clean portable humidifiers every third day. Unplug the humidifier before cleaning and follow the manufacturer&#8217;s recommendations on the use of cleaning agents or disinfectants.</span></span></span></strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">If you have no specific instructions on cleaning your humidifier, use a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. Never use the humidifier with any of the cleaning agent or disinfectant in the tank. Rinse the tank thoroughly several times with tap water to keep cleaning or disinfecting chemicals out of the air.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<h3><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000000; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">How can I control the causes of bioaerosols?</span></span></span></h3>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Molds, mildew, and dust mites are the most common causes of problems in the home. These bioaerosols can be controlled relatively easily.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Molds and Mildews</span></span></strong></span></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Reduce relative humidity.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">If you find mold or mildew in your home, try to find and eliminate sources of moisture, such as plumbing leaks.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Dry the air. Use a chemical or mechanical dehumidifier. Empty collecting (drip) pan daily.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Open closet doors to allow air to circulate. Use a 40-watt light bulb to dry and heat air in closets.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Vent bathrooms and clothes dryers to the outside.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Do not use humidifiers.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Trim back trees and shrubs around the house to reduce shade.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Remove debris from your yard, roof, and gutters.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Clean mold and mildew growth from walls with water mixed with chlorine bleach, diluted three parts water to one part bleach. Commercial products can also remove mildew and mold. Follow product instructions carefully. Very moldy items should be replaced.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Change heating and cooling system filters monthly.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Vacuum air return covers or screens regularly.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Check air conditioners for mold before each cooling season and have coils cleaned as needed.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Have heating/cooling system ductwork checked for loose insulation, leaks, or signs of condensation where the system enters the house. Insulate ducts on the outside of the ductwork.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Air cleaners and filters are other options. Electronic and hePA (high efficiency particulate absolute) cleaners and filters are best at taking mold, mildew, and dust out of the air.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Make sure that crawl space vents work and are not blocked. If your cooling ductwork runs through the crawl space, consider closing crawl space vents during summer cooling months.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Using vent fans in crawl spaces during the summer when humidity is high may increase the relative humidity in the crawl space and inside the home. Use fans only when outside humidity is well below 50 percent.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Mechanical dehumidifiers reduce humidity in basements, but they should not be used in crawl spaces when vents are open.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Heating/cooling contractors or duct cleaning firms can clean the ductwork in your home to reduce mold and mildew growth.</span></span></span></strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Duct cleaning may involve compressed air-washing, vacuuming and/or scrubbing of duct surfaces. Some firms advertise disinfectants and sealants to prevent further fungal growth. It is uncertain whether these processes are appropriate for most homes. Have microbial contamination verified by an industrial hygienist or other environmental testing agency before sanitizing products are used in your ductwork. Commercial fogging or misting agents should not be used because of possible health problems from breathing these chemicals. Use of a sealant in the ductwork is generally not appropriate unless the mold, mildew, or dust source has been removed.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Dust Mites</span></span></strong></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">It is not known how well any single measure controls dust mite populations. However, it is known that effective mite control requires that relative humidity be maintained below 50 percent. In addition, since you spend about a third of each day in your bedroom, concentrate your efforts there.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Wash sheets, pillowcases, and mattress covers frequently in hot soapy water. If someone in your family is allergic to dust mites, buy special vinyl covers for the pillow and mattress.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Ordinary vacuuming does not remove or reduce mite populations. Mites are so tiny that they pass through the vacuum cleaner bag. High-efficiency filters for vacuum cleaners may be used in place of conventional filters.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Remove stuffed animals and objects that collect dust. If carpeting is used, short-pile is best.</span></span></span></strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Some new products may help reduce dust mite populations. Ask your doctor about control solutions for upholstered furniture and bedding.</span></span></span></strong></li>
</ul>
<p><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><strong></strong></span></span><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">SUMMARY. Bioaerosols, such as mold, mildew, and dust mites, are commonly found in indoor air. Control measures include reducing sources of moisture, reducing the relative humidity, and removing materials which contribute to the growth of these agents. Make your house a healthier house. Check periodically for moisture problems and maintain the air handling systems and filters.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">For more information, see </span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/fcs/housing/pubs/fcs3606.html"><span style="color: #000080;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Air Filters and Cleaners,</span></span></span></a></span><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> or Identifying and Correcting Moisture Problems in Homes.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Definition of Terms</span></span></strong></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #000080; font-size: x-small;"><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Allergens</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; medical term for foreign proteins that cause allergic reactions in susceptible individuals<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Biocides</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; chemicals or processes that kill living cells<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Dander</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; skin and hair fragments shed by humans and other animals<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Disinfection</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; process of killing disease-causing organisms<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Dust Mites</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; microscopic organisms that feed on human and animal dander<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Hygrometer</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; instrument used to measure relative humidity<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Mycotoxins</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; toxic substances produced by fungi<br />
</span> </span><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> </span><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Sanitizing</span></span></em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"> &#8212; process to reduce the number of disease-causing organisms</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p align="center"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><object width="90%" height="6" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"><param name="align" value="bottom" /></object></span></span></p>
<h4><em><strong><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Prepared by Dr. </span></span><a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/fcs/faculty/szaslow.html"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Sandra A. Zaslow</span></span></a><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology</span></span></strong></em></h4>
<p><em><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><strong></strong></span></span></em><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">This publication has been issued in print by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service as publication FCS-360-5 (January 1993).</span></span></span></em></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Published by</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Employment and program opportunities are offered to all people regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age, or disability. North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&amp;T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local governments cooperating.</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">Electronic Publication Number</span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;"><span style="font-family: mceinline;">(June 1995&#8211;JMG)</span></span></span></strong></div>
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