A GHP moves heat from your home and places it underground or into a nearby water resource. The temperatures underground change little throughout the year and the GHP doesn’t have to work as hard to cool or heat your home. They use an underground loop field and an indoor heat pump to transfer heat from your home in the summer and back to your home in the winter for year-round comfort.

The provisions of the tax credit allow you to claim the cost of the GHP and its installation, although the optional auxiliary heating element and the ductwork doesn’t qualify for the credit. In addition, the geothermal heat pump must meet the Energy Star’s guidelines for the GHP at the time it’s installed. You can receive the credit for installation in existing homes, new construction and second homes. Rental homes do not qualify.

Besides taking advantage of the tax credit, when you install a GHP, you can look forward to a system with a long lifetime. The loop field usually has a 50-year warranty and the indoor heat pump can last 25 years or longer as long as it’s carefully maintained.

In the past, installations were limited to homes with large yards where the loop field was installed horizontally. Now, however, it’s possible to dig a vertical loop field for homes with smaller yards. This option also works if you don’t want your landscaping or other yard features disturbed.

To learn more about using the tax credit for a geothermal heat pump and the system’s benefits, contact Roth Heating & Cooling. We’ve provided HVAC services for Portland area homeowners since 1976.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about geothermal heat pumps and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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The most common rating you’ll find for central air conditioners and heat pumps is its SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) rating. Each model of these systems is tested over the course of a season. Engineers place the outdoor condenser in an environment that’s held at 82 degrees F and measure the amount of electricity the equipment uses to cool a space to 80 degrees with a humidity of 50 percent. The SEER rating runs from 13 into the 20s, and each increase indicates it uses 10 percent less energy under lab testing conditions.

Portable and window cooling appliances have an EER (energy efficiency ratio) rating that’s similar to the SEER, but tested differently. Instead of holding the temperature at 82 degrees, they raise it to 95 degrees for a shorter period and base the rating on electrical consumption. The EER rating is available for central heat pumps and air conditioners, but isn’t always prominently displayed. The minimum EER stands at 9.7 for portable devices.

The last of the A/C efficiency ratings is the COP (coefficient of performance). It measures how much heat the system removes based on the amount of electricity it uses. The easiest way to learn the COP is to calculate it by dividing the EER by 3.41. If you select an air conditioner whose EER is 12, its COP would be 3.5, indicating it moves three and a half times the heat per unit of energy it consumes. Higher COP ratings indicate better efficiency.

When choosing an air conditioner, the ratings tell you the energy consumption of the system. Other factors, like how it’s sized and installed also make a difference in the energy it ultimately uses.

The pros at Roth Heating & Cooling can help you learn more about A/C efficiency ratings and getting the best performance from a new system. We’ve provided HVAC services for the greater Portland area since 1976.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about efficiency ratings and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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A/C Noises From Outdoors:

• Banging or Tapping: Check the fan on the condenser to make sure it is clear of debris such as sticks, leaves and trash. Make sure the fan blades are not cracked or hitting the case. If the noise seems to be coming from the area of the compressor, call a professional, as it may indicate that there is internal damage, such as a loose connecting rod or broken motor mount.
• Bubbling or Hissing: Inspect the refrigerant lines for signs of leaks and call your contractor to repair any that are found.
• Buzzing: With the power to the system turned off, check for loose electrical connections or signs of arcing, such as burned connections. Clean and tighten the electrical connections and restore power. If the noise continues, contact you contractor, as there may be a more serious electrical problem.
• Clicking, Ticking or Rattling: Check the outside of the condenser for loose hardware and tighten as necessary.
• Squealing or Screaming: Call your contractor immediately, as there may be a serious problem with the compressor.

A/C Noises From Indoors:

• Ticking or Clicking: There may be debris in the blower fan. Shut the system off and clean the blower fan and its housing.
• Grinding or Screeching: This may indicate that the bearings in th blower motor need lubrication or are on the verge of failure. Lubricate them if possible, or call your contractor for assistance.
• Rattling: Check for loose hardware or connections in the ducts, and tighten as necessary.

For more information about common A/C noises, call our HVAC experts at Roth Heating and Cooling today. We have been serving Portland and the surrounding areas since 1976.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about A/C noises and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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Wall insulation is also important, but not as crucial as what’s in the attic, since the roof of your home has more exposure to the elements. The State of Oregon’s Building Codes Division requires at least R-15 in the walls for new construction. The two most common insulating products used in both walls and attics are blown-in cellulose or fiberglass batts. Each of these has an R-value of 3 for each inch of thickness.

Other kinds of insulating materials offer higher R-values for tight spaces or where there isn’t room in the wall or ceiling cavity for greater thicknesses. Foam products can have an R-value from 4 to 7.2 per inch, depending on the type you choose. Foil covered insulation also reduces heat transfer because it radiates the heat back to its source.

Heat always seeks cold and in the summer, an adequately insulated home stays cool longer and warmer in the winter. Insulation goes a long way toward keeping your cooling and heating bills low, but only as well as it’s installed.

• Fiberglass batt insulation actually loses some of its R-value when it’s crushed or compressed. Crushing the air pockets in the insulation decreases its insulting properties.
• Cellulose in the attic is likely to settle, which causes it to lose some of its original R-value.
• Leaving gaps between the studs or joists will hasten heat transfer. If you’re using faced fiberglass batts, staple down the loose edges to the studs. Cut rigid insulation so that it fits tightly where you’re installing it.

The proper R-values and careful installation will keep you more comfortable and lower the load on your HVAC equipment. To learn more, contact Roth Heating & Cooling, servicing Portland area homeowners since 1976.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about insulation and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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Untrue: Turn Off the A/C and Save Money

This energy-saving myth says you will save money and energy by turning off your central air conditioner while you are away from home. Rather than turn it off, set your programmable thermostat to 88 degrees. Your central air conditioner will run efficiently (for a long time at long intervals) but your pets and medications will not be harmed from dangerously high heat.

Untrue: When Home, Crank It Down

Turning the thermostat down sharply—65 degrees or lower—will not cool your Portland home any faster than leaving the programmed settings alone. Unless you have a variable-speed air handler, your central A/C’s fan has a single speed, and the cool air will not move any faster.

Untrue: Only Central Air Conditioning Cools

Portland residents from the city’s founding in 1851 to 1902 disproved this myth; there was no central air conditioning. You can survive without it today, too:

• Sleep in your basement
• Use cool cloths on your neck
• Apply ice cubes to your wrists
• Spray your top sheet with a fine mist of cold water and let it evaporate as you go to sleep

Cooling Myth: Closing Vents Saves Money

Among cooling myths, this one could be your most costly. Closing off registers or vents is wrong. It throws off the supply and return air balance of your HVAC system. It can also lead to more frequent visits from your HVAC contractor, for repairs from the wear and tear you place on your central A/C.

Untrue: Ceiling Fans Cool Your Space

Ceiling fans cool you, because you have perspiring skin. They push air around, which helps your sweat evaporate; you feel cooler at higher temperatures. When you leave the room, turn off the ceiling fan.

For genuine money-saving ideas with no cooling myths, contact us at Roth Heating & Cooling.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about cooling myths and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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• Run a ceiling fan: It seems simple, but creating air circulation with a ceiling fan makes you feel 4 degrees cooler. That way, you can save energy by setting the thermostat to 78 degrees while enjoying what feels like a 74 degree room. Just remember to turn off the fan when the room is vacant since the wind chill effect cools people, not the air.
• Increase insulation and home tightness: Since your home is built from a variety of construction materials, gaps and cracks in the outer envelope are normal. However, if you can seal these gaps and tighten up your home, you reduce the amount of hot air that gets in from outside. Then, by adding insulation to the attic floor, you help prevent hot attic air from finding its way into your home. Both of these efforts reduce the need for air conditioning.
• Seek cooler exterior finishes: If a siding or roofing upgrade is in order, choose light-colored materials, which reflect more light than they absorb. Cooler exterior finishes can reduce your peak cooling load by 10 to 15 percent.
• Shade or upgrade the windows: Awnings, trellises, strategically planted trees, reflective blinds and light-blocking curtains are all effective ways to keep the high-angle summer sun from shining directly into your home. Upgrading to high-efficiency windows with a low-E coating and other advanced features also helps reduce the need for air conditioning.
• Replace old appliances: Aging refrigerators are the biggest culprits of inefficient operation and excess heat generation. Incandescent bulbs are also notorious for wasting a lot of energy in heat output. Replace these and other inefficient appliances to reduce interior heat gain and lessen the strain on your air conditioner.

For more on how to reduce the need for air conditioning, contact Roth Heating & Cooling, the top HVAC service company in Portland.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about air conditioning and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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Why Good Home Wiring is Important

If your home’s wiring is old, unnecessary strain may be put on your electrical system in its attempt to keep up with your family’s power demands. Sudden computer crashes and power outages are just a couple of the problems that can be caused from old or faulty wiring. While these issues can definitely become a nuisance, the fact that such wiring can turn into a safety hazard makes upgrading an even greater necessity – faulty wiring is the main cause of house fires. If your home is over 40-years old, replacing the wiring is most likely needed.

When It May Be Time to Rewire

The following are some signs your wiring may need upgrading:

• You have lights that are flickering or dimming.
• Your fuses blow or your breakers trip frequently.
• There are switch plates and outlets that you’ve noticed are discolored and feel warm when touched.
• You’ve noticed a burning smell coming from an appliance or a room.
• There’s a tingling sensation when you touch a receptacle, wall switch or appliance.
• There aren’t any ground fault circuit interrupter outlets in areas that may be exposed to moisture (your kitchen, bathrooms, etc.).
• You have ungrounded outlets that only work with two-prong plugs.

For more information on home wiring, and other related home comfort topics, please feel free to contact us at Roth Heating & Cooling anytime. Our team of expert contractors have been proudly serving the Portland area since 1976.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about home wiring and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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There may come a time when troubleshooting a programmable thermostat is necessary to get it working again. Follow these steps before you call a professional for help.

• Change the batteries: The display screen can still glow with low batteries but the programmed settings could stop working. Turn the thermostat off, remove the front cover and replace the batteries, which are most likely AA’s. Replace the cover, switch the thermostat back on and see if it works now.
• Check the fuse: Most programmable thermostats have a fuse, which contains a filament like an incandescent light bulb. If too much power travels through the filament, it separates. Take the blown fuse with you to a hardware store to find the right replacement.
• Test both the heating and cooling system: If the thermostat isn’t working with your air conditioner, switch it over to the furnace and see if the equipment kicks on. Do the opposite if the thermostat isn’t properly controlling the heating equipment. If a problem exists with one system and not the other, it’s probably the equipment itself and not the thermostat that needs attention. Call an HVAC contractor to come take a look.
• Replace the thermostat: If none of the above steps reveal a solution, the thermostat’s circuit board has worn out and you need to replace the thermostat. Check with the manufacturer to see if it’s still under warranty. If it is, or if it has been recalled due to defects, expect a free replacement. Otherwise, you need to purchase a new one out-of-pocket.
• Install the new thermostat: This is a DIY task you can probably accomplish by yourself. If the new thermostat doesn’t correct the problem, call a technician to give your entire HVAC system a once over.

For more tips on troubleshooting a programmable thermostat, contact Roth Heating & Cooling in Portland today.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about programmable thermostats and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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If the weather is warm enough to run the air conditioner, the ice should thaw and drain in a short time. Once it does, turn the unit back on. It should produce cold air immediately. If debris had clogged the drainpipe, you may have resolved the issue and you will not experience further difficulty. If not, you will have to consider other causes of the freeze-up and resolve them.

1. Low refrigerant levels will cause the coil to ice up. This may be due to a leak that a qualified HVAC technician can repair before refilling the refrigerant.
2. The air around the coils may not be warm enough to prevent freezing. This can happen if the registers inside your home are not open and free from obstruction. Dirty filters can also prevent adequate airflow.
3. The fan may not be running or may be running too slowly to circulate the air around the coil effectively. Listen for the fan when the unit is on. If you do not hear it, this is likely the problem. In either case, an HVAC technician can help.
4. If your unit keeps running after the room is comfortable, the culprit may be a bad thermostat. This can also send your utility bill skyrocketing.

The staff at Roth Heating and Cooling will gladly determine what causes the A/C to freeze up and provide you with the solution. Just call 503-266-1249 or schedule service online for a one-hour response during business hours or the next business day.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about A/Cs and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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To help you answer this question, learn the three factors that hint at the end of an air conditioner life span. If you determine yours has reached its end, then it’s more economical to replace the system than pay to repair it.

Age of the System

If your A/C is more than 10 years old, it’s probably nearing the end of its life, especially if an expensive repair is rearing its ugly head. If you’re not sure, you can get a general idea of your air conditioner’s age by comparing the electricity bills from June, July and August over the past several years. If there’s a noticeable increase over the years, your A/C is losing efficiency as it ages.

Also consider the number of repairs you have paid for in the past year or two. An aging air conditioner requires more repairs as it nears the end of its life span.

High Humidity

A poorly operating A/C, or one that was improperly sized at installation, may have difficulty removing excess humidity from your home. Before you jump the gun with a replacement A/C, ask a technician to check your duct-work. Leaky ducts could be the cause of high humidity.

High Electricity Bills

A sudden increase in electricity bills from one month to the next could clearly indicate the system has abruptly taken a turn for the worse. Instead of subjecting yourself to another month of unseemly energy bills, have the A/C looked at to determine the problem isn’t superficial. Then, take it as a sign that the air conditioner life span has come to an end.

To learn about determining air conditioner life span, please contact Roth Heating & Cooling. From Vancouver to Salem, Hillsboro to Bend, we’ve got you covered.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in the Metro Portland area about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about air conditioners and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

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