Rudy Wolff

"Greed is good"

2011-03-09T21:37:00.000+01:00

One of my favourite activities is to get into a shopping flow in foreign textile shops. Because of the weight not for fabrics, unless there is a bargain (like inexpensive quality silk in my favourite colors) or something extraordinaire (like fleur de lis- or Napoleon I-patterned brocade in for instance cream white or dark blue), but for all kinds of sewing accessories:

Ribbons, ruffles, lace, feather, appliques, studs, decorative closings, jewellery parts, beads, pearls ... One of my first such "missions" was to the textile district of Paris, Sentier:

No doubt about which capital this was purchased in.

The tiny metal tassels are among my all time favourites.

Later on, Montmartre followed, with the mentioned brocade, dark blue silk, exclusive lace for my first runway collection, and not least: Here I found many of the fringes that also decorate "Dark Dawn":

Photo: Phelan Marc

In late 2006, I went to the textile district at Manhattan for the first time. Like in most Norwegian guides describing areas and not concrete tourist attractions, the directions were inaccurate, so I bumped into something that seemed like a main street there (yes, like 6th Avenue ...). Asian dresses and the most campy rhinestone jewellery you can imagine. And there were tons of it. A set of necklace and earrings was bought for about $150.00. The style was a mix of Vienna´s opera ball and the TV-series Dynasty, but the exclusivity was only theoretical: The necklace broke at the first use ... Some of the remains were placed at a redesign bag, later displayed in the same city:

This is the earring side of the midnight blue silk bag

(I never liked the earrings anyway: Too much, also for me).

Moments later, I stumbled upon M&J Trimmings, got curious and went inside. It was a feast: Ostrich feathers (yes, the ones used on the runway in the French embassy in Washington DC ten days ago), greek key ribbon, fleur de lis studs, Ralph Lauren-style appliques ... Some of them occured in "Imperivm":

Photo by Dmitry K. Valgberg/BERGSTAR

The feast repeated itself in an even bigger scale two years later. Further exploration of the area felt uneccesary at that moment, after dissapointing trips to more scattered or elusive textile districts. In the meanwhile I had discovered both antique medals´ shops in Palais Royal (Paris) as well as the enormous assortment at Ebay. And I ended up with a personal stock like this:

Fringes from Montmartre and Oslo used in "Making History" and "Vanity Fair"

Appliques for the Wolffman part of "Imperivm"

Ribbons from M&J and antique war medals´ shops in Paris.

Ebay fun: Ones choices reflect ones values.

But there was no system in the indulgence, and I ended up with piles of beautiful things that did not necessarily match any current collection or each other.

This last time I made a plan. With the Nolcha Fashion Lounge participation, I got a general idea of what would work at a later stage. An M&J trip in order to luxify the collection was scheduled. Finally, other and endless amounts of sewing treasure chests were discovered in the neighbourhood, but both time and budgets were restricted. With me followed a team from Runway Passport, that also worked with a mini documentary about me. Eagerly I pointed out earlier M&J bargains, but got more and more restless. - I think I have never restrained myself from filling the shopping basket for that long before.

While being interviewed my eyes picked out several highlights and the brain was focused on only one thing: Not filling the basket by any means, but "Will this fit the DC show?". And the dicipline had positive results: Feathers, glittering fur trim, black prism trims, bead tassels matching the blue sequin bodices, more tassels, and more tassels were systematically acquired. All in black and blue.

And despite the typical for me generous amount, all materials were used in the collection too (except for another Greek key trim I still cannot figure out what to use with).

DC runway photo by Phelan Marc

So greed can be a joy, but well-directed greed is optimal. The results can be viewed here.

F/W 2011 "Dark Dawn" - finally on the runway!

2011-03-04T19:52:00.001+01:00

This collection was intended for a Manhattan launch in February 2011. But as Nolcha Fashion Week cancelled their runway shows only a month or so in advance, one had to improvise. Excerpts were shown at Nolchas Fashion Lounge instead the 10th, then at a rather unmentionable event in Oslo the 14th, and finally in the French embassy in DC the 27th.

I was invited to DC long time before this, but a promise to another Norwegian designer about a common show held me back a year ago. Then I did not make another collection, but had a reuse show at the Miss Norway finale instead of a new launch. The New York runway cancellation, however, gave room for a participation this year. Here are the pictures (a commented version will be published later):

All photos: Phelan Marc.

The first peek on the new collection will be in New York!

2011-02-01T14:01:00.001+01:00

This time new creations will be presented portionally and in form of excerpts at different events at both sides of the Atlantic before they are shown alltogether on the runway. It involves so much travelling, I have actually named the whole thing "The Transatlantic Fashion Tour":

First we take Manhattan ...:

Please note that you must enter code 533 at guestcode.com to get admission to the event.

This is followed up by a private view for the fashion industry and Norw.-Americans, in the form of a drop in coffee party/meet & greet at the designer´s suite in East Midttown the 12th, 2.00 p.m.. - Please RSVP to post(at)rudywolff.com within 11th of February.

Then follows a definitively public view, back in Oslo, Norway and its Fashion Awards, celebrating 20 years now in 2011.

And finally all the seperate parts are collected, utterly luxified between the awards and a second departure to the United States, where they are finally shown together here the 27th - at DC Fashion Week´s international couture day in the French embassy. The event is open to everybody. Tickets can be purchased here.

Best regards from a thrilled designer.

The hunt for the Greek key

2011-01-26T13:57:00.003+01:00

I have been interested in art history since my teens, and studied the subject at the university later on. Hence, I might have acquired some slightly academical terms to my vocabulary. But long before I knew what it was called, I have loved the ancient Greek meander pattern:

There are certain patterns, symbols amd colors that has thrilled me since my upbringing, be it pink or blue, fleur de lis, crowns, heraldic eagles, ostrich feathers or this then unnamed, fabulous, geometric pattern (yes, history has always been my treasure chest).

Unluckily, I never spotted meander ribbons it in Norwegian fabric shops. - With a population of less than 5 million people spread over a relatively vast territory, assortment can often be insufficient for individuals with tastes as specialized as my own.

However, my first meander ribbon was detected in the textile district of New York at a romantic New Year´s holiday some years ago. Dark blue and golden yellow, a revelation according to my - specialized - taste. And a bit too costly for my mental wallet, that later has expanded. It was supplemented with several yards of a less pricy version; white and golden metallic. It looked cheap on the catwalk too.

The black and golden yellow relative of the preferred, woven ribbon was, however, detected in San Francisco a couple of years later. From it the British empire, czarist and Napoleoic inspired collection "Imperivm" (F/W 2010) was actually born:

Not letting the meander pattern slip my mind, I thought: "But there must be more than this!" The is a world of oppurtunities out there in our Internet age! "Meander ribbon" was looked up at Ebay, surprisingly with no relative results.

Later, the online store of shop no. 1 was consulted. Ah! The term is "Greek key"! So simple it escaped my foreign word-loving mind. Still a bit costly, but in many lovely colors, a meander (or Greek key) fantasy! And Ebay sellers offer it too ...

Then the subject was forgotten for a while. Antiquity is not a a main inspirational source for "Dark Dawn", after all.

Last Saturday, I spotted the very same quality ribbon in a Norwegian shop. Too broad and in wrong colors for anything in my upcoming collection, but nevertheless a great releaf for individuals as me. 50% off a price surpricingly lower than in the Manhattan shop. I resisted.

And regretted. The sky blue and orange one could match at least one of the dresses ... The well filled online store was consulted again. I remember it was a bit awkward for international customers to order from it. Fax orders and more than $50 for the postage only confirmed this and scared me off.

I will actually visit the brick and mortar store in a couple of weeks only, but the assortment of these adored Greek key ribbons there can be varying, to put it diplomatically: I cannot see the beauty in f.ex. orange and black versions. Or orange and dark green or reddish brown ... Or mould green and pink in any of my collections.

OK, back to Ebay again, now only one moth before leaving Norway with my new collection. Oooh, an unpretentious and a bit narrow, but more important; blue and white one! Inexpensive too, and a fair postage rate. Ok, 20 yards must be sufficient for the goddess dress.

But until 10 handlings day made my stomach tickle internally. A message was attached to the PayPal payment: "Hello! I hope it is possible to send this before 10 business days, as I need to use the ribbon for a fashion show outfit only one month from now, and Norwegian customs can take a while. Thank you very much in advance! Best regards."

So, I hope the ribbon will be here within me leaving for my international runway show. If not, I hope it will loook good on the dress a bit postponed instead ...

"The flower dress" - from India to Botanical Gardens

2010-11-12T14:07:00.004+01:00

As many of you already know, I am interested in reducing waste from fashion production & consumption, hence several of my outfits are redesigned, either from other textile products or my own catwlak outfits. An some outfits, like this ever-fresh flower, seem to demand eternal existence in the spotlight:

When I, along with inter alia Tina Haagensen and New York´s Couture Fashion Week organizer Andres Aquino, had my fashion show at India International Fashion Week in December 2009, this was practically between two fashion week seasons. Therefore a dress from the Indian show got new life already two months later, going from summer to winter with a few stiches.

It started with light dusty pink satin decorated with numeruos pearls around the neck opening. Ancient Indian clothing was one of the inspirational sources:

At its idea level, at the workshop.

Everything under control: Pre-fashion show styling in the workshop, November 2009

The summer version was combined with a golden bolero and shown on a dark model at Crowne Plaza in Gurgaon, contrasting her skin in a very delicate way:

Especially the fabric of the skirt was a visual success because of the vivid shine in it, but somehow the outfit did not show its full potential at this stage.

After the show I had only two months to complete another collection, the elsewhere more severe "Imperivm". I had been looking so forward to create it that I actually had made a few sneak peak items to it in connectyion with exhibiting at Oslo Fashion Fair in August. The dusty pink dress was, however made with only India in mind.

But I got so fond of it, and especially the simple, 1960s inspired design (later enhanced by the flower collar) and the tassel decorations, that it deserved renewed life. Indias treasures fully belongs in an imperial context, too. Wide, also 1960s/1970s inspired arms and a collar were now attached, also to fit with the less welcoming Norwegian climate. This version was then shown on the gorgeous Norwegian model, Anna from Team models, who debuted this season:

February 2010: Can it be cuter?

The dress reappeared without any further alternations in connection with the "Mixed Candy" show at the Miss Norway finale 2010. The red, that is to say green, thread of the finale show was environmentalism, so all the dress show items were either reused, remixed or redesigned for the occassion. Here the sympathetic and sweet finalist Rikke Norby wore it:

Unluckily the belt and necklace had started living a life on their own, altering the original styling.

After this, the dress still would not lay down among with its more quiet sisters: The Norwegian visagist Sølvi Strifeldt used it for a poetic, yet colorful makeup photo shoot the month later. This was symbolically done in Oslo´s bothanical gardens:

AD/photo; Photo: Linnea Syversen
Makeup/styling: Sølvi Strifeldt
Hairstyling: Linnea Syversen and Sølvi Strifeldt
Model: Lone Bru Kjær
Edit: Sølvi Strifeldt - http://facebook.com/RETOUCHIC
Accessories: Glitter - Vinterbro

And what then?

Maybe the flower dress should be altered and find its way into the designer´s own closet? There it will find nurture in the company of many others ...

The pictures of the entire "Mixed Candy" show at Miss Norway 2010 are finally out!

2010-08-31T20:57:00.003+02:00

Here are the photos from the Miss and Miss Norway show 2010 27th of August, when the contest made history by appointing the first colored girl as Miss Norway, Iman Kerigo - in "my" dress (it is now hers). - As an alternative too often more solemn fashion weeks, I cooperated with a beauty contest on a show this season. All clothes were reused or redesigned in thread with the new environment friendly profile of the event.

1: Mrs Norway later that evening, Malene Braaten-Sakariassen

in an early 1960s inspired dress that combined with her princess

looks was the natural showstarter.

2: Mrs Norway finalist Marit Helene Skree in another early 1960s

inspired dress. The belt also has a very cute bow not visible here.

3: Miss Norway contestant Elin Lilland in a style that can be

described as antiquity mixed with ABBAs color palette.

4: Marit Helene Kvist from Oslo, another Miss Norway candidate

in a redesigned royal blue party dress.

5: Miss Norway 2010, Iman Kerigo, still happily unkowing about

her victory later that evening. The dress is the most costly of the

"Mixed Candy" outfits, with a pearl collar taking a week to make.

6: Carita Haugrud, Miss contestant, styled by herself in yellow.

7: Henriette Ruud Hov, another. The dress is inspired by colorful

goddess dresses of the late 1970s.

8: Anette Celin Olsen, miss finalist in her Cinderella dress, with

petticoat made from another ball gown, in dark silk. Note the

slogan in the background.

9: Miss contestant Rikke Norby in a late 1960s inspired evening

gown with a necklace that seemed to have its own life.

10: The third and last Mrs. Norway contestant, Helene

Stangeland, with shoes to die for.

11: Lene Okkerstrøm in a dress with 2nd hand lace covered

bodice and an evening bag called "Meringue".

12: Alica Andersen in an almost imperial dress suiting her

birthplace St. Petersburg.

13: Kine Marie Tellenes was the last model in the living jigsaw

puzzle one calls fitting sessions, but luckily Alica, herself and I

together assembled this unexpected, but indeed very nice ensemble.

14: Later first runner up and Miss Water Marion Dyrvik in a ball

skirt and bolero uniformed jacket earlier shown in India,

combined with a top made for the occassion (actually redesign

of a dress that never made it to India and Oxybleach´s fashion week).

And here is some of us together at the fashion show finale.

Of course hair and make up in some cases as well as the whole setting is more commercial and adjusted to popular taste and rest of the finale show, but everything is a trade off. - At fashion weeks the audience can be less supportive and, to put it frankly, the staff more arrogant than in the entertainment business (this does not apply for my experiences in India, that made an example in friendliness and non-stress backstage behaviour). And despite some minor runway faux pas the show was a success!

- It was mentioned in Norway´s leading celebrity gossip magazine already the day after: "All the miss candidates presented a dress from the designer Rudy Wolff, who received great cheering after the show."

(http://www.seher.no/849916/historisk-seier-i-miss-norway).

All photos are taken by Dmitry K. Valberg.

A golden experience - a Norwegian designer does not live on oatmeal all the time

2010-08-30T01:35:00.000+02:00

Since writing about Oro (and also Terje Næss´restaurant Haga) as a freelance journalist, I have wanted to dine at Oro, but spending all extra money on marketing literature and sewing materials has limited my restaurant visits at the present time.

This week, I visited it with the Miss Norway contestants, soon former Mrs and Miss Norway, the editor of the wine magazine Rødt og hvitt ("Red and white"), as well as Miss Norway organizers.

The starter is the best fish meal I have ever had: Salmon with fresh lemon cream. It was so tasty that picture taking was neglected and conversation stopped.

This was followed by more fall-ish chicken ...

.... and a fresh berry dessert, unfortunately hastily consumed beacause of latecomers combined with a tight programme:

Due to other tasks that night, only one glass of white wine was consumed (I cannot remember which, as it was not that memorable).

However, all in all I would give the meal 5 out of 6 points, placing it in league with inter alia Bergen´s To Kokker (5+), Fem stuer at Holmenkollen Park Hotel (5) and Ekebergrestauranten (5+), naturally beaten by my best meal ever - at Les Amabassadeurs (6) at Hôtel Crîllon, a $ 200 luncheon enjoyed in palace like surroundings and practically lasting until 10 p.m. What is below 5 is not very mentionable.

Best regards from someone that lives for pleasure.

Glamourous remix & redesign - Rudy Wolff´s "Mixed Candy" at Miss Norway 2010!

2010-08-25T01:11:00.000+02:00

In connection with the Miss Norway finale 2010, I will have a fashion show, "Mixed Candy", with the contestants as models. See the invitation at http://www.missnorway.no/invitasjon.html.

"Norwegian design" - a category of its own?

2010-08-18T16:16:00.002+02:00

It seems like the press, our local celebrities, and large parts of the national fashion scene regard Norwegian fashion design as a category of its own. But is not this in reality a way of underestimating it? "I support Norwegian design," they say, but is Norwegian fashion a kind of charity object needing support? Or should it better be able to compete internationally because of talent and market insight instead?

Rich, but small and not so motivated

It is no secret that the Norwegian market is microscopic. All in all we have about 4.5 million people, of whom only a certain part is urbanized, somewhat more affluent than our extensive middle-middle class, and into Norwegian design when it comes to personal preferences. - Designer clothes are costly compared to ready to wear items from the chain stores and shopping malls. Personally, I only started to even consider purchasing Norwegian designer clothes when my income reached 6 cifers, in dollars. How many women actually earn that much? In Norway, only about half of the population is employed at all, while about half of the women are said to work part time, often in low paid jobs. Are many of these married to partners with such incomes, whom are also willing to spend large sums on clothing when international design still aesthetically beat most of it?

Support in front of the cameras

Despite widespread affluence in Norway, taste is also still rather utilitarian and everydayish, while "celebs" run from the red carpet to the social welfare offices and then back again. Especially during the fashion week, they show up in borrowed feather from some of our designers, claiming to "support Norwegian design". Would not actually paying the designers for the outfits be a better support than just any PR? - It is not so certain that the ideal client identifies with young, overexposed people that are wellknown for being ... wellknown. Returning a sweaty, perhaps also damaged garment does not remind of neither respect or support, while a designer demanding money for repair et cetera is considered impolite ...

Sandbox catfights

Some Norwegian designers are so desperate to gain local fame that they supposedly even give away garments for free to this week´s it-girls. Others regard any other designer making clothes for the same sex as potential competition and try f.ex. to steal muses or sabotage the sponsorships of their imagined competitors. Of course such irritations decrease inspiration and concentration, but would it not be better to spend more energy on levelling ones own design and positive marketing instead? Accordingly, a designer publically bragging about the achievents of most often her "competitors" is misunderstoodly regarded as commercial suicide. I hereby say something positive about clothes from Leila Hafzi, Cecilie Melli and Iselin Engan: I think some of their garments are wonderful. I hope this does not ruin me for all future.

Money for nothing?

Fighting over the Norwegian sandbox seems in many cases to be in total vain: According to the financial magazine Kapital ("capital") this spring, less than a handful of Norwegian fashion designers have sufficient income to even support themselves or running their business without intravenous therapy from people that do support them. Otherwise, fashion design here is something to spend ones own money on. - A trade must be regarded truly attractive when one actually pays for conducting it, instead of the opposite!

The receipe of success is not a one size fits all concept

Producing prêt-à-porter garments in Norway is out of the question if margins are considered interesting, and they should. Ready to wear is, however, more suitable for Norwegian preferences than even more expensive and decadent couture. Norwegian brands that succeed financially all make wearable clothes according to Norwegian taste and usage. Thus they can be compared to any chain store, but in a smaller scale. The best current example is Moods of Norway, mentioned in HBR and spreading their business in the U.S, Macy´s included. Yesterday they were appointed ambassadors of Norwegian design by Oslo Fashion Week, certainly a more well deserved prize than giving it to one of ones own sponsors.

But any smaller design house, which is the most common in this vein of the fashion industry, cannot be compared to them, inter alia beacuse of a large difference in styles, type of clothing and business model. On the other hand, practically all of our internationally acknowledged designers are either cross-cultural or based abroad. - A point to ponder in a global economy? Our brightest design stars work internationally for already established luxury brands. Do they in reality have anything to do with "Norwegian design"? Does a birth certificate limit you to a national style, or to a micro market?

Compete internationally!

Norway has many fashion design talents that could function as ambassadors abroad. Please support the talents in reality too, by perhaps being a bit more selective in your homage and encourage what actually has the potential to compete internationally. Only at that moment of time we can brag about "Norwegian design".

"Mixed Candy" - the Norwegian show

2010-08-06T23:53:00.004+02:00

"Up for recycling": An outfit worn at India International Fashion Week by Miss Iceland, who initially (and unknowingly) gave me the idea of cooperating with beauty contest organizers.

It is time to reveal a public secret. I am the main designer of the Miss (and Mrs) Norway 2010 finale August 27th here in Oslo, an adventure for everybody involved. Here the contestants themselves will show my flower-, fruit- and macaroon-colored evening wear.

One of the winners will be sent to the Miss Earth finale in Vietnam in late November. Miss Earth is focused on the environment, and so is Miss Norway now. Before this, I have attended many seminars on green business and eco-friendly fashion, for future inspiration. I have also written a text about a more environment friendly fashion consumption at my homepage, with i.a. to many people surprising facts.

In thread with this, I therefore gave myself a challenge when it comes to this fashion show. Time was too short to make an entirely new collection anyway, and with the internal slogan "Reuse, remix & redesign" I decided to avoid buying new materials, and make the best out what I already had - from many of my favourite garments and fabric leftovers from earlier collections. The name for this show within the Miss Norway show was already given: "Mixed Candy", as the colors reminds of candy as well.

So far and probably until the finale show at Ballroom, only thread, zippers and some (? = wait and see) glass pearls have been bought for the occasion. More 90% of the outfits are either new, redesigned or never shown at a Norwegian catwalk before. Thus, I demonstrate that reuse does not have to be quirky or have the characteristic odour of flea markets and second hand shops. On the contrary, it can be quite glamorous!

After the show, most of the "Mixed Candy" garments will be sold at trendbazaar.no

Raw materials for "Mixed Candy".

With a dedicated team and professional helpers within the entertainment and fashion industry, I hope this will be a very nice show. - I unfortunately know too much about the opposite. But as the Walt Disney´s Cinderella movie was the first inspiration source for me, I always survived harsh circumstances and work for a bright future. Because you owe it to yourself to at least try to fulfill your dreams!

A fun Rudy Wolff "Imperivm" photoshoot breaking up the cold and boring month March

2010-03-18T21:49:00.001+01:00

After making and showing 3 1/2 collections since November 2008 (when "Making history" was initiated), ending with the "Imperivm" show at Teatermuseet 18th of February, I have allowed myself to rest a bit.
- That is to say maybe taken totally ten days off (I have never had more than three contiguous days to releax since this fashion craziness started!) altogether.

Time has been used on a certain healthy amount of laziness and not so healthy gluttony, besides catching up with my Norwegian School of Management studies, opening of my own catwalk outlet at Trendbazaar, PR work in general, and new embroideries (as the eyecatcher on a $ 12.000 dress for myself, as I definitevely deserve it):

This "baby", born as late as 23rd of February, is now a 1/2 yard long scroll.

The most fun part of this business is (when ignoring the many people with issues and unjustified, narcissistic personality traits in the fashion industry) is getting to know new and exiting people with a genuinely positive attitude towards others, to creativity and to life!

- Earlier this month I was invited to a fashion shoot dedicated to my design. The photographer was Ole Morten Myrvoll, who covered the abovementioned show for the blog page Norwegian Fashion. A studio at Grünerløkka was rented, and a nice makeup artist, Sølvi Strifelt, was assigned for the job along with the three models Ida Sofie, Anders (debutant) and Nara, an Australian sunbeam.

Here are some of the other pictures taken that day:

This jacket was also shown at Spelemannsprisen (the Norwegian Grammy awards).

"Classical fashion" - a successful show against all odds

2010-02-22T19:32:00.004+01:00

As an aesthethic I dare say we had two good shows with the most beautiful models this day, at the very best location; our own "palace" for the evening.

Never say never

Only hours after I wrote that everything was according to schedule, the combined host and sponsor had changed his mind and hence made problems for the planned show 18th of February: This autumn I was offered a fully sponsored fashion show at a classical café here in Oslo. As Åse Strand, Norway´s most known hat designer, and I had already talked about cooperating about a fashion show, I asked her to join me. Before Christmas we were also offered to have a show at the luxury shopping mall Eger, but under the condition that we participated at the prêt-à-porter Oslo Fashion Fair, that i.e. moved its exhibition dates colliding with my master course at Norwegian School of Management. Because of the sponsorship and cooperation deal I also rejected an invitation from the U.S., as I find it an obligation to always try ones best to stick to promises.

This last Friday in January the person in question suddenly claimed the entire sponsorship to be a "misunderstanding", his favourite word according to a former employée he never paid (maybe salary expectations were misunderstandings too?). By this time he was already in conflict with one of my aqquintances, while two other had quitted and was about to leave their positions and roles in the establishment. This was only ten days before the press releases were to be published. It belongs to history that this person actually lost the right to use the venue only a week after ... One can call it karma.

"If you can guarantee a 200 000 NOK turnover at our restaurant, we can of course host it."

A friend fixed a new location, the stylish Bølgen & Moi at Tjuvholmen, by the seaside in the financial district. "No problem!" said its profiled founder. I went to see the place myself the following Monday. The local manager never met me in person, but sent an assistant telling me that we had to personally guarantee a $ 33 750 turnover (!) the fashion show evening, "not to lose income". As this is the winter season, there is still a financial crisis going on and there was for instance only two guest present in the entire restaurant while I visited it, I was very tempted to use some very impolite words. Instead I started to look for another place to arrange Classical Fashion.

The perfect venue for the country´s "most theatrical" designer

Several persons were engaged to find a new venue, and I got some very good piece of advice from two of them: Why not use the Theatre Museum in Oslo´s old town hall from 1624? I had already been tipped about this spot before, and it would be an ironic answer to the reception of my "theatrical" debut show with its "beautiful costumes. And costumes is all it is." I was trapped at an intense BI seminar at this moment, but the new venue was ordered for our scheduled time Thursday 18th of February at 8 p.m., a time set by the moneyless "sponsor" in his time.

"Special price for you"

- People were already invited and over a dozen models ordered. One model agency had increased its prices for me 400% compared to last year (when the other designer having his show at the same time as myself paid nothing to the same agency back then). Therefore only three models were ordered from this company, all of them friends and acqquintances I had promised the job.

Less than two weeks before the show I had a chat with one of them, modelling for free the year before. "But this time you get some money at least." "???" - The agency never told the models that they were to be paid, so they thought they would be working for free. However, they would get $ 85.00 each for modelling at the big event that parallelled our show (with its designers paying less). One model called the agency about the lacking salary: "Oh, has Rudy complained again?" - I have never heard anybody talking this way about a business customer, but not all people seem to be interested in keeping their customers. Shortly after the agency also tried to convince the model to work for another designer instead, whose show was to be arranged exactly the same time as ours. "- I will of course email Rudy about this." She never did. The designer even contacted the model directly, offering her dresses etc. Luckily my model has integrity, and resisted the pressure. And there are other model agencies in town ...

A succesful event after all

The day itself offered only minor problems; a catwalk CD was suddenly gone, the museum staff never locked the door - letting guests in too early, some crew people arrived late, a couple of guest had taken maybe a glass too much before show start, the light conditions gave the photographers as well as myself headache ... That is all, and also peanuts in comparason with earlier fashion show experiences in this town.

Various guests, from young fashionistas to eccentric upperclass women, were streaming in among drapes, tassels and columns, finding their chairs, studying theatre costumes, greeting accuintances as well as strangers, chatting, drinking wine from the Gamle Raadhus popup bar ... Learning from couture professionals in India that uneccessary stress never generates quality, I even did an interview with Norwegian Fashion (the article will be published soon) less than one hour before my own show.

Backstage the models changed in a château-like environment, surrounded with historical paintings and classical wall details. Space, light, humour, good spirits ... - This is the way it should be! My always cheerful assistant did a very good job with ironing etc., while I was the dominatrix of the day and main steamer (two tasks somewhat linked together) of the entire thing. The hair and makeup team from Cosmo Beauty had their own corner in this beautiful white hall, and even assisted with lacing one of the Imperivm garments when time felt critical before the show scheduled at 21.35. And starting as scheduled, maybe five minutes too late at worst!

The same beautiful model from Team, wearing an adorable Åse Strand bridal hat.

Working backstage I unfortunately missed Åse Strands show, that was very well received among the guests. This was one of her best collections, and I feel exactly the same about mine. Well, was it against all odds? No, one cannot fight genuine talent and unbendable willpower!

Uppermost photo: Dmitry K. Valberg This photo: Rudy Wolff.

Pictures from the "Imperivm" show itself will also be published very soon.

Proceeding with "Imperivm"

2010-01-22T15:14:00.000+01:00

Having a cold, I went home early from the atelier today with the very best conciousness: Everything is going as scheduled. And what schedules; here the time consumption of every item is carefully noted, in order to maximize the progress when time is short. Many of the garments are now completed. - It is wonderful to stick to ones original plans, with only minor irritations and actually no disturbances, just like it was in India in December.

Pictures from the fashion show in India - finally here!

2010-01-21T09:42:00.004+01:00

All from the S/S collection "Vanity Fair", except from the last outfit (the red, more history inspired set), a sneak peak on the upcoming "Imperivm" collection, to be shown at Café de Concert in Oslo February 18th:

If you want to see this as a video, Riya Communications has now put the show out on Youtube:

Rudy Wolf.mov (yes, it is misspelled).

Webshop is finally open/preparations for a new show

2010-01-02T15:34:00.000+01:00

Finally I found a web shop solution that is easy to handle, nice to look at and with reasonable pricing. The web shop opened 1st of January, and new products will be added every workday from now and until the fashion week here in Oslo.

- My show date and venue is already scheduled - more information will come. Extensive amounts of fabrics, pearls and ribbons are ordered and bought, in addition to all the materials I already have - thus making the most costly collection from Rudy Wolff ever. I hope it will live up to its name.

An imperial accident: This pendant got stuck to one of my finger nails the other day, I mean really stuck.

Merry Christmas and a happy new year!

2009-12-26T16:39:00.000+01:00

The interesting opportunity mentioned a couple of weeks ago was rejected by me this time, preferring to have a show at this oversea venue another time instead. - A disease gotten in India has stolen a lot of "Imperivm" sewing time, thus arranging a somewhat smaller, but very stylish show in Norway in February instead. However, no less than three cool Imperivm garments were started yesterday, in between all the Christmas gluttony. Below is the India International Fashion Week finale sneak peak Imperivm outfit:

"Merry Christmas from Rudy Wolff".

New excitement

2009-12-12T02:30:00.001+01:00

Today, that is to say yesterday, interesting doors of oppurtunity opened when it comes to the fashion week in February. This made me so excited that I immediately and despite being ill, continued on a jacket that combines the eco-friendliness of redesign with the intricate details of couture. Compare it with transforming a boring, but rather well designed brick building into an ornate Tudor house ... Well, a completely monochrome Tudor House that would be (no shades).

Obama steals all the attention today

2009-12-10T18:44:00.000+01:00

These days before Christmas I am only resting and digesting all the impressions from India. However, with police helicopters all over the city and long motorcades there is more excitement than rest this place.

The process of evaluating OIIFW has also started, combined with planning the sites of future fashion shows. The "Imperivm" collection, that one also could see some extracts from in Gurgaon on Saturday will be initiated next week.

Back from India!

2009-12-09T13:38:00.001+01:00

This truly was a few of the most adventurous days of my life! After a long Aeroflot flight from snowy Norway via rainy Moscow, I was picked up at Indira Ghandi airport in hot India by a fashion week-dedicated driver, Peter, who transported me to Crowne Plaza hotel in "India´s Silicon Valley", Gurgaon. What a hotel! With 20 metres tall ceilings in the reception area, a wonderful buffet and out of this world service, I had an excellent stay there. Truly recommendable!

After my arrival on Friday, I made the garments ready for exposure, slept deeply due to jetlag and watched Monica Paracha´s and Mustafa Hassanali´s shows. The first displayed regional maximalism at its best, while the latter combines African aesthetics with the modern and showed a very sensual collection:

Saturday I was very nervous, as my show was between two stars: Israel design school talent Chen Cohen and Andres Aquino, head of the New York Haute Couture Week. Here are some backstage photos:

But my show went well! Afterwards, I was interviewed by several papers, magazines and TV stations. Here are some press/photo links:

"Creations of Rudy Wolff at OIIFW" http://www.femefashions.com/feme/gallery/photo/designer/detail.php?PAGE_NAME=detail&SECTION_ID=345&ELEMENT_ID=10808

"OIIFW´09 photos" http://photogallery.indiatimes.com/articleshow/5308337.cms (front page of photo gallery + picture 14-16)

"Latest fashion week: From hot minis to sensual saris: Rediff getahead" http://getahead.rediff.com/slide-show/2009/dec/07/slide-show-1-glamour-oxybleach-fw-from-minis-to-saris.htm (2 pictures)

"Moteguru i India": http://www.laagendalsposten.no/article/20091209/KULTUR/712099993/1099 (in Norwegian)

The fashion week was ended with Aquino´s own show:

And the work goes on and on and on ...

2009-11-29T00:04:00.000+01:00

After a half sleepless night (positive stress & all that), followed by a sewing accessories buying trip to town (no shopping free day for me!) I had one of the final sewing sessions today: I have worked on a cool, light blue & sexy ladies´uniform 2-piece set and added a blue, tutu-ish underskirt to a dress.

Then I have attended a fashion event (pre-party to the new Oslo Fashion Night), drinking only mineral water today. "Sorry, my workday isn´t over." Having escaped being photographed in front of those "ad boards" that stars (and unknown narcissists) are so attracted to, the host insisted this time, and then I was depicted together with Negar Khan, a Bollywood actress based in Norway. It´s a small world ...

Now I will have a midnight meal, sew a few stitches more and then hopefully have a good nights sleep, actually looking forward to another long workday. - Heard about flow?

Blog still being somewhat neglected

2009-11-28T00:02:00.000+01:00

- Due to business, as in busy-ness: A long and hard, but somewhat successful day at the workshop, followed by excessive sushi intake and a Barbie celebration at the night club La Belle Sole in Oslo, marked by a pink skirt (actually the golden yellow galla skirt shown at Fashion Week in February, but redesigned and turned inside out, as the fabric is two-sided) and matching shawl (also show at the mentioned event, but with another outfit). - This way of dressing actually made me one of the most Barbie-ish attendees of the evening.

Blog turning to English

2009-11-27T08:30:00.000+01:00

The official language of this blog is hereby English, in order to reach potentially more readers. It is about i.e. the preparations for Oxybleach India International Fashion Week, that will take place in New Dehli next Week. Now one of the last days in the workshop before deadline.

More is to come!

Intet blogginnlegg for gårsdagen

2009-11-27T08:28:00.002+01:00

Det skyldes rett og slett stress!

Hyggelig stress

2009-11-26T00:55:00.000+01:00

I dag var det folksomt i atelieret, med både kjente og ukjente. Ting gikk kanskje 60% så fort som det skulle, og jeg fryktet at Tidsskjemaet (en stadig oppdatert Excel-oversikt m/tidsbruk pr. plagg samt andre IIFW-relaterte oppgaver) skulle sprekke. Men det gjorde det ikke - skjemaet er ajour på timen, og jeg har lagt inn slingringsmonn. Det er også tid for motefester både fredag iog lørdag, selv om jeg nok må legge bånd på meg mht. champagneinntak. Dét har jeg forhåpentligvis gjort meg fortjent til lørdagen etter uansett ....

Flere perletopper

2009-11-24T18:23:00.000+01:00

Dagen i dag har vært viet oppgaven å lage topp til den tidligere avbildede blå, grønne og gullfarvede kragen som består av tusenvis av perler. Den tok lengre tid enn forventet, så jeg er bittelitt på etterskudd. Men noen ganger får planer og plikter bare være teoristoff; etterpå står Leila Hafzi-butikkåpning for døren!