RUNIN Egypt

Sexual Harassment: The Epidemic in Egypt

2011-05-22T00:48:00.000-07:00

It was the first day of EID. The holy month of Ramadan had just ended and Egyptians were out in the streets en mass to reward themselves for the struggle that they endured for the last month.

After visiting the mosque to say a special prayer a special time of meet and greet provided with homemade sweets, many Egyptians went to see the debut of a new film downtown. It was Oct 2006, and Egyptians were generally excited, but their energy was pent up and the steam valve had to be released soon or somewhere whichever came first.

But the film quickly sold out and mobs of angry men showed their disapointment by tearing down the post office. After accomplishing this and with security not present, they decided to engage in a sexual frenzy and ran around grabbing and groping any women in sight. It didn't matter whether the woman were wearing a hijab or uncovered.

No women was safe. Egyptian or foreigner. They ripped off clothes and sexually assaulted on the street in front of thousands and in front of police who seemed powerless.

And the beatings and rape occurred for a brutal five hours from 7:30 pm to 12:30 am. Yeah, the police was there, and the police just stared.

Sadly there was no explicit criminizing sexual harassment in Egypt. The specific legal wording to aid in protection women exists nowhere, making prosecution extremely difficult.

Thankfully many good Samaritan Egyptians came to the aid of the women. Shopkeepers harbored women inside their stores. Taxi drivers locked girls inside the cars, but the angry mob still tried to break the windshield and get the girls out. It was pure pandemonium.

And where was the news? The event occurred with virtually no reporting on TV or in the papers. No CNN. It would have gotten totally unnoticed if it wasn't for the citizen journalist who through social media channels came out to document this gross injustice. Thankfully bloggers documented and reported the incident with vigor. They provided pictures to the police officers who blatantly refused to take action. They were afraid that there would be negative repercussions from their peers.

This act led to protest on the streets by bloggers, women's rights activists and the common Egyptian who were sick and tired of the state police standing there doing nothing to quell violence.

Photo by Hossam el-Hamalawy, taken on 9 November 2006

The press would not be silenced after all, and the rest of the world needed to know about Egypt's shame and sexual violence.

Ancient papyrus reeds show women been afforded many rights equivalent to men

Sexual harassment is pervasive throughout the Middle East but in Egypt it is severe. Perhaps it has gotten progressively worse since that fall EID day in 2006. In the past, , Egyptians used to respect the women. In fact the women of ancient Egypt were afforded the same or equal rights as men. When the Greeks invaded Egypt in 332 BC, Egyptian women were afforded more rights than Greek women. Today, if you are a woman living in Cairo, chances are you have been sexually harassed at some point. It happens openly in the streets, on buses, in the workplace, in the doctor's office. It happens in front of the police, and the government is well aware of the problem but has done little to quell it. It would happen more in the metro train if it wasn't for the women-only trains. And what is the glaring response by society as a whole -- it is the woman's fault for wearing something provocative, for being on the street at the wrong time, for walking alone -- Harassment happens to locals, ex-pats, even tourists. As Iman Santori from the Fleeting Glimpse blog told me, "With regards to women rights, Egypt is 50 years behind the times." I'll say that there's no comparison -- no other civilized nation in peacetime has seen sexual harassment so pervasive and so loosely enforced. Egypt has hit rock bottom.

A survey by the Egyptian Centre for Women’s Rights showed that:

98% of foreign women visitors experienced sexual harassment

83% of Egyptian women experienced sexual harassment

62% of Egyptian men admitted harassing women

53% of Egyptian men blame women for “bringing it on”

And sexual harassment by spouses can be brutally worse. Men have been known to abuse their wives, some even burning and disfiguring them with seemingly impunity.

What is the root cause of this harassment? Some say it is the repercussion of a failed state -- with severe poverty, precipitous unemployment and uncontrolled population growth. With many of the young men not working and without direction in life, they take their aggression upon the women. The harassment ranges from catcalls to groping to indecent acts to rape.

Some Islamic fundamentalist point to the spread of conservative Islam from the Gulf states. Several million Egyptians went to work in the Gulf States since the early 1970s. When they returned, they brought back a more conservative view of women in the society that requires severely more restrictive roles for women and condemn women who step outside their roles. Egypt has one of the most liberal dress codes for women in the Middle East. Thus, many Egyptians claims that the verbal incitement is brought on by allegations that women are not modestly dressed.

I personally believe that although it's important to understand the root causes, they serve as no excuse for this behavior. It is the government's lack of leadership that allowed the unemployment rates to skyrocket and it is the government that is not acting proactively and turning a blind eye to this very serious problem that is endemic in this deeply-rooted society.

The Big Screen has Taken Notice

In the movie, "678", a man is eyeing a middle-aged woman on a jam-packed bus and sliding his hands behind her. Though fictional, the story is inspired by true accounts from women who had to ride bus 678 daily and become helpless victims of this lewd behavior.

Lately Things are Changing, but will it Last?

The Egyptian Center for Women's Rights (ECWR) describes the problem as a social cancer and calls on the government to do something quickly.

Last year, the first man in Egyptian history was sentenced to jail and hard labor for groping filmmaker Noha Rushdi Saleh. Sharif Gomaa drove a van besides her and grabbed her breasts so forcibly, she fell.

Unlike what millions of other women did before, Norah took the case to court and won. The sentence was considered so harsh that the Egyptian Center for Women's Rights (ECWR) stated that this act would "restore confidence in the legal system's ability to defend women subjected to such crimes."

This is a huge step in the right direction, but will it be enough to stem the tide. Will the government call on the police to crack down, take action and not just stand on the side and watch.

Social Media Can Help

Yes, there's Twitter and Facebook and they have done a lot for victims to network and share stories.

A new site has been created for women to report sexual harassment:

http://harassmap.org/

The harassment covers incidents from catcalls, touching, indecent exposures and sexual invitation.

Women can now use SMS to report sexual harassment. And they will get a response back to let them know what has been done about it.

Hopefully social media will do much to stamp out social injustice and sexual violence in Egypt.

The New Tool to Democracy: Social Media

2011-02-03T08:54:00.001-08:00

As a public affairs officer in the US Navy, I was intimately familiar to the power and pull of the social media revolution. Tweets, status updates, blogs, microblogs, and yes, even Vlogs, have been indispensable tools to communicate in a viral medium as well as to track the pulse and viability of a story long after it is written and forgotten.

Credit: thepunch.com

During the Iran presidential elections in the summer of 2009, the US State Department specifically requested that Twitter not be taken down for maintenance. This request substantiated the geopolitical value of Twitter and forever changed the landscape of social media in government, politics, and yes, even diplomacy.

A mini revolution ignited in Iran after the flawed Presidential election of dictator Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. Meanwhile, the Iranian fascist government virtually choked off the flow of news to and fro Tehran. Many Iranians who protested that the election was rigged did so via Twitter. Twitter, not CNN, evolved as the ideal medium because it was real-time, was shot-gunned by the people closest to the action, could be deployed by virtually anyone with a computer or cell phone and was virtually impossible for the government to track or block.

During a revolution, crisis or emergency, Twitter really showed its spunk and stamina. Forward to the present day: Egyptians vividly remember Iran's Islamic Revolution of 1979, almost a generation ago. The unprecedented uprising of how the people threw out an indominable monarch has been magically weaved into the anecdotes of society as cohesively as the tales of Sinbad have become an endearing part of Arabian culture.

Credit: Washington Post

However, history is never fully flawless. Diplomacy is screened through dense filters manipulated by the ideology of totalitarian states. In today's dramatic string of Middle East uprisings, social media has been the decisive medium to execution.

So could this revolution happen without Facebook? It is no coincidence that Mark Zuckerberg was chosen as the 2010 Time Person of the Year.

Just as Twitter was instrumental in Iran, Facebook has been even more crucial to the development of political ideology that has led to this historic uprising. Without Facebook, poverty, struggles and tension would still tragically exist in Egypt. But without a Facebook, there would be virtually no way for these tensions to escalate to a boiling point and no way for disparaged Egyptians to vent their anger at Mubarak -- little chance for that pent-up anger to perpetuate across nations and borders.

Egypt -- Depriving the People the Human Right to Tweet

2011-01-28T23:21:00.000-08:00

"The rioting in Egypt is an Egyptian problem, but when the country suppresses the people's basic right to communicate amongst themselves and with people throughout the free world, it suddenly becomes a world problem, for which we must stand up and proclaim."

Egypt means a lot to me. My travels there this summer brought me friends and memories that will never fade as long as the Great Sphinx guards the pharaoh Khufu's Pyramids.

And I made many friends, some who I converse with on Facebook -- others whom I've lost touch with, but they're still deep inside my thoughts today. Though Cairo with all its congestion and chaos (had to get up at 5:00 AM just to go for a run without choking to death or been run over) was one tough city to hoe, I found Egyptians warm, open and compassionate. They were smart, savvy, and welcomed me with a strong handshake or even a hug, and they wanted to make a difference, if not for themselves, for their children.

And the children lived and worked in the most abject conditions I hadn't seen since Haiti.

nhasd.com

Though the people got my vote, the government surely lost my trust.

The living conditions for the common people, the children allowed to labor all day for a measly $3.50, the chaotic congestion on the streets and the way their women were pushed around like commodities made me revolt in the stomach.

Thankfully, the women of Egypt are finally saying enough is enough. We abhor the way we are treated by our men, by our government. We deserve to be treated more like equals. Has that voice fallen on deaf ears?

Greenfudge.com

The government doesn't seem to give a hoot. They are slow to get off their butts and energize, to take on the difficult but obligatory job of caring for their citizens. In my foreign and naive observation, they were slow, inefficient and corrupt and cared mostly about keeping their jobs and providing a relative lifestyle of wealth and happiness but for their own families.

That is why over 20 percent of the the 76 million people in Egypt live in abject poverty. The government just sits there like a bump in the log -- they can't even stem the tide of population growth and congestion that has gripped Cairo by its shoulders. Can't seem to enact a law and enforce it. Desperately, Cairo needs CHANGE!

Egypt once had a visionary leader. I remember when Anwar Sadat was shot -- killed by members of his own Army by a single grenade in retaliation for signing the Egyptian-Israeli Peace Treaty. Sadat's Vice President, Mubarak, succeeded him and served for nearly 30 years -- the longest for the country. Has he overstayed his reign?

Though, Mubarak honored all existing treaties and Egypt's membership in the Arab League was suspended due to the peace treaty (reinstated after eight years and now the headquarters has been relocated to Cairo), Mubarak hasn't been entirely a bastion of democracy.

A strong friend of the United States, Mubarak, has been accused of resisting reform, of nurturing corruption, of imprisonment of political figures, retaining his crony friends and fostering torture.

From Abolish Torture

And in 2009, shortly after his inauguration, President Obama chose symbolic Cairo to make his call for peace to the Middle East. The choice was brilliant. Egypt is one of the most populous nation in Africa and the Arab world. And the US sends 1 billion dollars of aid to Egypt every year. The President made it clear to the Arab people that he was going to prioritize Israel's peace and security, yet he managed to maintain a balanced tone.

Though the location was strategic and the message strong, over a year later, that message has been blurred, the message regretfully has fallen on deaf ears.

Sadly, the nation, though democratic, has turned into a ghastly police state with extremist socialist ideas. The police has the right to search your house without a search warrant and to bug your phones and email. An Egyptian can also be convicted and incarcerated for life by a government tribunal instead of a court of justice. Do you think an Egyptian can march in Cairo without been arrested.

This week, emboldened by the success of the people in Tunisia, the people of Egypt did the unthinkable thing, stood up against their government and started a revolution never seen since the media entered our living rooms and livelihoods.

When the government got the sense that the rioters were assembling via social media, they quickly shut it down. First it was Twitter, then Facebook and eventually all of internet, cell phones, SMS.

But to do this unilaterally is an infringement of today's basic human rights of communication and collaboration.

The complete internet shutdown just emboldened the heroic people of Egypt. They have completely ignored Mubarak's order of curfew, overwhelmed the once militaristic police and complete anarchy has rocked the once placid "Paris on the Nile."

America, and the rest of the world, certainly cares what the people of Egypt are saying and if they need a virtual lifeline, we have the right to weigh in. But should the US actively intervene? This may be an opportunity of a lifetime to effect real and lasting change against corruption and for reform. But memories of the disastrous Iran revolution 30 years ago are still strong. Besides providing harsh rhetoric, there is very little we can do. We do however implore the government of Egypt to open back up critical lines of communication.

The rioting in Egypt is an Egyptian problem, but when the country suppresses the people's basic right to communicate amongst themselves and with people throughout the free world, it suddenly becomes a world problem, for which we must stand up and proclaim.

2010-06-29T05:44:00.000-07:00

They say that living in Cairo and breathing the foul, smoke-laden air is equivalent to smoking a pack of cigarettes per day.

I've heard and now I'm fully convinced that Cairo is one of the most polluted cities in the world.

The cars are centuries old, many of them held together by chicken wire and duct tape.
The drivers are even more edgy -- they don't stay in their lane, they don't stop for pedestrians and they completely ignore the sea of traffic cops that are attempting to keep things in order.

Every time I crossed the crosswalk, I felt I was putting my life on the line.

What's almost as bad as air pollution is the onslaught of honks, beeps and clangs throughout the busy Cairo streets -- drivers and bicyclists feel that they need to announce their presence with an unofficial siren.

The noise is deafening, especially if you have to sleep through it. And Cairo doesn't go to sleep until 4 AM, and by 6 AM, the thick cloud of smoke and dust has finally cleared allowing one to saunter out in the predawn darkness.

So it was with great pleasure that I had the golden opportunity to run with the Cairo Hash House Harriers during one of their weekly jaunts to the desert.

The Hidden Tomb of Giza

2010-06-22T05:26:00.000-07:00

This is a project that shows the excitement and intrigue of the Pyramids of Giza as well as the Step Pyramid of Saqqarra and the beautiful Saharan Desert

Nile and Giza

2010-06-19T09:06:00.000-07:00

What I Learned Alone on a Saharan Sand Dune

2010-05-25T10:18:00.000-07:00

"I was no longer stressed. Instead the sea of drifting sand gave me inner peace -- a peace so perfect, I knew only God could bestow."

I was supposed to venture out to the "White Desert" to revere the mushroom-shaped limestone formations.

I heard about the legendary white limestone cake icing that glows magical and mysterious in the faint moonlight.

Further, Atef told me that I would be camping out with other backpackers from different parts of the world. This sounded like a lot fun to me -- staying the night in an unfamiliar landscape with people I just met, but hopefully become good friends before the night had passed.

But there would be a sacrifice...

The stuffy 5-hour bus ride from Cairo to the Baharia Desert with the windows rolled down was dusty and disconcerting.

Since I was traveling alone to an unknown location, I had no idea who, if anybody, would meet me at my final destination, some 360 km southwest of Cairo.

The thought did cross my mind several times that this was all a scam and I would be marooned in an unfamiliar land where only danger thrived. Certainly, there was a reason Atef from the Regent Hotel was pushing this tour on me. Not just once, but ten times. I didn't want to hear the eleventh, so I relented.

"Come, I have a nice tour for a good price," Atef insisted showing his buck teeth with his tobacco stained smile.

I was not even staying at Regent. I had a decent albeit noisy place to stay at the Qabana Hostel and my host, Haitham was extremely cordial and trustworthy. And during my morning runs that started at 6 in the morning, I would run into Atef as I was running back on Maruf St.

But why did I have to get up so early? Because Cairo is one of the most polluted cities in the world, and I am becoming increasingly convinced that it should be ranked #1.

The level of air pollution in Cairo ranges from 10 to 100 times higher than the standards set by the World Health Organization.

The cars are centuries old, many of them held together by chicken wire and duct tape, squeaking by with horns that scream all night long, only to be interrupted by the sound of prayer at 5:30.

The drivers are even more edgy -- they don't stay in their lane, they don't stop for pedestrians and they completely ignore the sea of traffic cops that are meagerly attempting to keep things in order.

The noise is deafening, especially if you have to sleep through it. And Cairo doesn't go to sleep until 4 AM, and by 6 AM, the thick cloud of smoke and dust has finally cleared allowing one to saunter out in the predawn darkness with some hope of running in tranquility and respiratory peace.

I even had the great pleasure to run with the Cairo Hash House Harriers during one of their weekly jaunts through the desert. You meet people, have fun, do wild and crazy skits while trying not spill your beer, and perhaps most significantly, you get a chance to run out wild in the mountains and desert and see and breathe the real Egypt, as it was in the time of mythology and Hieroglyphics.

But after spending four hectic days in Egypt, almost been run over twice and seeing everything from the Giza to King's Tut tomb, I was ready to head out of this confusion to someplace more tranquil, someplace where I could breathe and not feel like I've just smoked a cigarette.

Sadly, I didn't even have enough Egyptian pound to buy me a hot dinner, let alone a place to stay. I was not ready. I should have not have gone.

Similar to the Haiti trip, I was definitely going on Faith. Someone told me this was something I had to do, and Atef kept bugging me -- I wouldn't find out until the next day, the full reason why.

Five hours later, when the bus made a big stop, and everyone got out, I suddenly started to feel real stupid. The idea that I would be spending the night alone in the shifting sands of this mysterious desert became took on credibility. Finally the bus took one last turn and entered through the gates of Ahmed's Safari Camp. Great, I wouldn't be dying tonight, at least not just yet.

I was immediately relieved to see Ahmed. Ahmed knew Atef and appreciated the steady flow of clientele that flowed from the city. Then Ahmed handed me over to my guide, Mahmoud, who drove me around for over an hour and showed me different spots around Baharia that were beautiful and picturesque.

"Nice," but in the back of my mind, I wish he would hurry up.

View Bahariya Oasis in a larger map

Then all of a sudden, Mahmoud stops in the middle of this sand dune.

Was the jeep broken? Did he have a flat tire?

"What are we doing here?"

"We stop here," he said. We camp here for the night."

I reminded Mahmoud that I insisted on visiting the legendary white desert. I surely did not ride on a van for 5 hours just to sleep on a sand dune all by myself.

After making a phone call, I discovered that there was never any intention of taking me to the White Desert. The hostel manager, Atef, just wanted to swindle my money and have me camp out on a sand dune instead. $120 US, it seemed like a good deal for him -- and a way to squeeze every last cent out of the unwitting tourist.

At first, I was rather disappointed -- I had no desire to spend the night on a sand dune alone with my guide -- one who didn't speak much English, one who spent virtually the entire time talking to his wife on the phone.

But as the night wore on, I started to think differently.

As the crescent moon rose bright and strong, it flooded the surrounding desert with a beautiful moonlight -- so graceful and tranquil, I felt at peace. It was quiet, deathly quiet -- the only noise was the weeping of the wind over the fine, desert sand.

For a moment, I felt like I was marooned on a desert isle. The experience -- completely peaceful and carthatic.

It was then that I realized that was no better place to be than in Egypt's Western Desert and live the simple camping life of the ancient Egyptians, surrounded by sand dunes.

I couldn't help but start to reflect on my life, my story and the lessons I have learned. I thought about my family, my beginnings, why I was here and what the future held for me and my loved ones.

What started out as a lie to trick me to believing that I would be camping with other people in the legendary White Desert became a golden opportunity to revitalize, reflect and renew.

I knew that this was the right place to be -- it was no accident that I would be alone on a sand dune with nothing on the agenda dune but to think and reflect.

What was truly amazing was that for some reason that night, I felt totally at peace. Despite staying in hectic Cairo, my blood was no longer boiling; I was no longer stressed. Instead the sea of drifting sand gave me inner peace -- a peace so perfect, I knew only God could bestow.

Soon, it was past midnight. I gracefully fell asleep in the sand, so comfortable, it felt like a sea of soft, white goose feathers. Suddenly I was jolted awake. A 4x4 Land Rover came roaring up the sand dunes trying to climb it, only a couple hundred feet from crushing my lifeless body. Somehow, it just couldn't muster enough steam. The jeep was not really that close to hitting me, either, but it was close enough to jolt me up as I wondered whether I was simply lucky, blessed or both. Whatever it was, it was not my moment to go. There was something else I needed to know.

One close brush with death was enough that night, so I quickly gathered my stuff and rolled down hill towards our jeep. Surprisingly, my guide, Mahmoud, was still up. Thankfully, I was so tired, I immediately went right back to sleep, as if this shocking event never happened.

The sun was already up for a couple of hours, when I awoke. I felt so refreshed and my back was not in pain despite sleeping on the sand dune. I had a simple breakfast of eggs and bread while my guide started packing up the gear. By 0900, we departed -- the sand was already feeling hot and the sun shone brightly adding to my deeper, desert tan.

As I had expected, the bus ride back home was once again long and hot, but I was glad to be heading to a real bed, a bathroom and a hot shower for a change. I was sitting by Amy from Boston who was also getting her MBA but from Darden in Virginia. Across the aisle was Ayaka, who was traveling alone from Japan. Somehow the bus ride got to her and she began to feel nauseous, a puke bag at the ready. They were backpackers like me who spent the night in the desert. But unlike me, they had the fortune to experience a night in the legendary White Desert.

The bus stopped at Giza, within sight of the mythical Pyramids. I was tempted to go pay another visit -- I'm sure glad I went straight back to the hostel instead.

When I returned back to the hostel, I took a super long hot shower. The entire room got super steamy and when I walked out steam rose from my pores.

I poured a hot cup of tea with a pungent scent of cinnamon. Then I turned on my computer and read my email. An expected note from Mom and one from Japan from my cousin Awei who I had not seen in years.

----- Original Message -----

From: 鄭　偉閣

To:

Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 3:34 PM

Subject: RE: Grandma

We just took Grandma from the hospital to the funeral home in Nishinomiya. We dressed her in the designated gold color outfit, and she is now resting in peace. I just returned home to get ready for tomorrow’s funeral. First thing in the morning, I will need to go to the city office to acquire the death certificate, fill out more papers, and make a reservation at the crematory.

The funeral will start 6pm today (5/24, Japan time), and Grandma will be cremated tomorrow (5/25) at 11am. After the cremation, we will bring Grandma’s ashes back to the Ashiya home. Therefore, we advise you not to come back to Japan due to such short notice. I don’t think you will make it back on time.

Awei

I spilled my cup, the blazing-hot liquid ran down my bare legs. I read and reread, hoping it was just my imagination. Then with gritted teeth, I wondered why the hell I was here and what if anything I could do. Then at that moment it occurred to me that the trip that wasn't meant to be was every reason I was supposed to go When all alone in a strange and peaceful world, you hear the voices, from those who are close to you and those who are passing away. Even my close brush with death had a whole different meaning now.

My sweet Grandma will be dearly missed in her tight-knit Kobe community as well as by relatives in Hong Kong, UK and the US.

Dear Mom,

I just returned from a night camping in the desert to hear this very sad news.

I'm very sorry for the loss of Grandma. My condolences also to Kim, Uncle, Auntie, Awei and cousins. She was an amazing woman who was loved by many. She lived an incredible life and I'm sure touched many hearts.

I'm happy that you got to spend some time with her last month. Those moments must be now extra special and the pictures of the both of you together look great.

Please let me know if there's anything I can do.

I leave Cairo tomorrow for Athens.

Love,

Chito

tosh peppler

to me

5/24/10

Just remember her in your heart that the reason we're all here is because of her. It is her legacy that we make the most of our lives to make her proud. I am at peace knowing that her spirit is free, no longer a prisoner of her declining body. Enjoy the rest of your trip for her but stay safe.

I will always appreciate what my Grandma has done for my family, and I will never forget that one special night in the desert when both life and death together shone brightly in the moonlight over the sparkling, drifting sand.

Night on a Saharan Sand Dune

2010-05-25T00:47:00.000-07:00

I hope you enjoy this short clip of my experiences camping out in the Sahara Desert.

A beautiful oasis

Where I spent the night alone (w/ my guide)

Chapt 8 "Cairo -- A Spectacular Failure of Capitalism

2010-05-24T22:04:00.000-07:00

In this oft-forgotten city of entrenched customs and history, I saw so much potential and missed opportunities in the way the streets and store fronts were maintained. The buildings were beat-up, drab, squalid altogether, some almost to the point of disrepair.

But as I really took the time to walk and observe, I noticed from one Roundabout to another that the buildings resembled European masterpieces. There was so much character, brimming with culture -- ready to be explored and forever defined.

Man running next to the Parliament Building

Cairo was built in the 19th century and modeled as a European City, once referred to as the "Paris along the Nile." Truly the city is beautiful and the River Nile is majestic and magical.

There are many priceless relics, but today they are drab, desolate, a sooty brown, darkened from the pollution that fills every molecule of breathable air competing against the relentless stream of CO2 sputtering from every exhaust pipe, every dripping air conditioner that glamours every window ledge all around this forsaken city.

See Note below.

Around town, I saw massive amounts of ramshackle homes that were falling apart by the hinges, ready to collapse around the people who lived in these crumbling tenements their entire life. What else do you expect from a city that let the population get out of hand and provided virtually no control and monitoring. Meanwhile people kept on building and breaking zoning laws. The government was sadly asleep.

That's because people from all over Egypt and the surroundings kept moving into the city without much monitoring and controls. Are there 18 million people living in Cairo or is there half that -- who knows what the true number is. As you might expect, the trash situation is simply calamitous in this bustling city.

Also, Cairo made fatal mistakes in not planning for the Pedestrian and instead letting Drivers have their way What happened? Did the government just let things get out of control? Absolutely.
Did they apply government regulations and monitoring like they do in more developed countries?

Capitalism works around the world, but without government intervention (lassez faire), people and businesses can get out of hand, break rules, cut corners -- all for the ultimate goal of maximizing profits and their self interests.

With the recent economic crisis in the US, many conservatives have condemned proposals for government action as "socialism." But capitalism and government intervention are not mutually exclusive. The goal is to provide for the people while the government serves to minimize the risks through intervention.

Winston Churchill once noted that "capitalism is the worst form of government -- except all the others have already been tried."

Just like the financial crisis that is rocking the innocent people of Greece and the environmental and economical crisis that is devastating the Gulf Coast. With respect to the Deepwater Horizon explosion, BP is the culprit, but the government (Department of Interior) was weak and lackadaisical in handing out an exemption and taking BP's word that a spill was unlikely and that there would be "no significant adverse impacts" from it.

In this case, the Dept of Interior bent to to BP's aggressive lobbying and did not do a true, thorough and accurate assessment of what could possibly happen and its full repercussions. In essence, I believe that the Dept of Interior's Mineral Management Service (MMS) provided lax enforcement of existing regulations -- MMS waived several safety regulations regarding oil exploration in the Gulf of Mexico -- this waiver excused oil companies that have drilling operations in the Gulf from

by Walid Hassanein

Once again, capitalism and the people's votes and voices is morally ideal, efficient and works. But people can also be selfish and self seeking. Capitalism can only work if the government is strong, enacts laws that does the right thing, despite it's popularity or tradition and be aggressive in policing and enforcing these laws without corruption, secrecy and pure socialism: without hearing and incorporating the opinions of their people.

That's what's wrong with Cairo, but it isn't just a Middle East problem.

** A recent study used a simple calculation that half a million Cairo residents will develop in a period of 5-25 years serious health problems including respiratory illness and cancer.

Sailing on a Faluka on the River Nile

2010-05-23T15:25:00.000-07:00

There is something magical about sailing on a http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Africa/Egypt/Muhafazat_al_Qahirah/Cairo-2008750/Restaurants-Cairo-hard_rock_cafe-BR-1.html Faluka along the River Nile.

The River, like the ancient Pyramids, is magical. The boat, historic and stable, felt calm and peaceful.

The faluka is Egypt's traditional sailboat. The Nile is the world's longest river (4,000 miles long) and runs through nine African countries.

As we sail, enjoying the coziness of the boat, we see tall aquatic bullrushes along the majestic shoreline.

Although, my friend Aya and I made a very short excursion near the Hyatt Hotel (where we enjoyed hometown food at the Hard Rock Cafe, we felt as if we were experiencing a true adventure. It was so magical, romantic and dreamy, all in one.

The Faluka is a wonderful, iron-strong boat, ready for any voyage, short or long.

The whole experience was a pleasant part of the trip that brought me to the mystique of the Pyramids, Hash Runners who became my band of runners and a peaceful night alone in a Saharan Sand Dune, reflecting life and death lessons the night my Grandma unexpectedly died.

Heading to the White Desert

2010-05-23T00:52:00.000-07:00

Running in Cairo is very intriguing. It's best to start early before dawn because the streets are so crowded and the air pollution starts getting bad. There are very good places to run -- but my favorite is along the Nile.

Not to mention, that you put your life on the line everytime you cross a street. Drivers don't know how to stop and they drive like they are on a mission to run someone down.

But still, the running bug has gotten ahold of me. And Cairo or not, I'm going running to brave the streets, the horns, the smoke.

But tonight, I'm going to a place where there is no pollution, no congestion, and the only lights I see on earth is the white limestone cake icing glowing faintly in the moonlight.

The Great, Sacred Pyramids of Giza

2010-05-22T15:38:00.000-07:00

Egypt boasts so many great wonders, unequaled in any other destination in the world. Cairo just doesn't boast the Pharaonic monuments. It is a cumulation of the legacies of the Greeks, Romans and early Christians and the profusion of art and architecture accumulated from centuries of successive Islamic dynasties.

There's nothing that compares to a visit to the Pyramids. The Pyramids of Giza is the oldest tourist attraction in the world and the only remaining icon of the original Seven Wonders.

Must See in Person
Unfortunately, pictures do not do the Grand Pyramids any justice. One has to actually visit them to fully appreciate the full height and breadth of beauty and mystique that it fully emanates -- the air of serenity, the amazing masterpiece of architecture rising in the shifting sands, its spectacular tomb glistering in the Egyptian sun.

Pyramids Integrated with the Sphinx
And you cannot look at the Pyramids by themselves. Each lies within a group, connected and integrated with the Sphinx and with each other.

Worn and Weather Beaten
Unlike a visit to the Statue of Liberty or the Lincoln Memorial, the Pyramids is not well-polished or manicured. In fact it is a little bit rough around the edges -- which makes it interesting and provides the irresistible allure that makes one feel that you are an Egpytological explorer uncovering hidden catacombs and ancient hieroglyphics.

Unexplored Caves
Makes one wonder whether an undiscovered network of labyrinths and catacombs full with new and exciting artifacts still exists today.

If you explore around on the western side, you can discover old caves tucked away from the public eye. If you scurry down a cave and follow the scent of musty lavender, you can find tombs where for thousands of years, carried the mummies of ancient Pharoaohs and Queens.

Hawkers
Yes, the Pyramids is definitely a tourist attraction like no other. It is nearly impossible to enter the Pyramids without being accosted by an whole host of peddlers begging you to be your guide or offering a camelback ride. All around the sands, there is camel dung everywhere as ubiquitous as the trinket hawkers and taxi peddlers. But the Pyramids rises above these earthly digressions. The scintillating Pyramids of Giza are bold and beautiful and full of artifacts to touch and discover beyond your wildest dreams.

Yes, even I could not resist the obligatory pose with a camel.

When I got there, the taxi driver was aggressive and misled me by dropping me off a hundred yards away in the midst of souvenir hawkers and camel ride sellers.

I finally pushed my way through the mess of scammers insisting that I wanted to see the Pyramids by myself, on my own and with my own eyes. Read more about the scammers and hawkers

But eventually, the hawkers got the best of me, and I allowed this kid to take some interesting shots of me. He even led me to this cave in which I explored with zeal and amazement.

Seeing the Pyramids, un-rushed with your own eyes, trying to understand how, why, and the reason they were built is the best way to fully appreciate its true grandeur.

Today, many people flock to the Great Pyramids to experience something spiritual. They go there to receive emotional healing -- they go there to receive wisdom. Many come back feeling energetic, inspired. How can one not visit the sacred grounds of Egypt and not be inspired, rejuvenated.

Mystery

The Great Pyramids have always been enshrouded in mystery. Many famous individuals throughout history such as Alexander the Great, Napoleon and Sir Isaac Newton were mystified by the Pyramids. Just looking at the Pyramids leave one in awe. Were they built for architecture, mathematics or astrology? Do they provide any hidden information, or are they just a tomb to bury their admired ones.

Dying an Early Death in Cairo

2010-05-22T14:00:00.000-07:00

By 6 AM, the thick cloud of smoke and dust has finally cleared allowing one to saunter out in the predawn darkness with some hope of running in tranquility.

Yes, there is danger lurking in Cairo. Just last year, an open-air hotel cafe packed with tourists in the Khan al-Khalili market experienced another deadly bomb blast, the second time in less than four years. One needs to keep your head on a swivel here, but just about anywhere when traveling in foreign lands. (See Footnote)

But there is another danger, just as pervasive and perhaps more insidious.

They say that living in Cairo and breathing the foul, smoke-laden air is equivalent to smoking a pack of cigarettes per day.

I say it's worse -- it's like smoking hashish without a sieve.

I've heard many times before and now I'm fully convinced that Cairo is one of the most polluted cities in the world, if not THE most polluted.

The level of air pollution in Cairo ranges from 10 to 100 times higher than the standards set by the World Health Organization.

The cars are centuries old, many of them held together by chicken wire and duct tape, squeaking by with horns that scream all night long, only to be interrupted by the sound of prayer.

The drivers are even more edgy -- they don't stay in their lane, they don't stop for pedestrians and they completely ignore the sea of traffic cops that are attempting to keep things in order.

Everytime I got in a cab, it was an adventure to say the least.

Everytime you walked into a bazaar, a souq, a crowded cafe, you never knew what danger lurked ahead.

Every time I crossed the crosswalk, I felt I was putting my life on the line. In fact, near death experiences are a daily part of a pedestrian's life in Cairo.

What's almost as bad as air pollution is the onslaught of honks, beeps and clangs throughout the busy Cairo streets -- drivers and bicyclists feel that they need to announce their presence with an unofficial siren.

Living downtown, where noise levels reach an average of 90 decibels is like spending a day inside a factory, according to a 2007 study by the Egyptian National Research Center. In fact, the noise level in some places are well over the limits set by the Environmental Protection Agency.

What many people may not realize, is that noise can have the same debilitating effects that chronic stress does. Noise can cause "an accumulation of stress hormones, inflammation and changes in body chemistry that can lead to problems such as impaired blood circulation and heart attacks."

The noise is deafening, especially if you have to sleep through it. And Cairo doesn't go to sleep until 4 AM, and by 6 AM, the thick cloud of smoke and dust has finally cleared allowing one to saunter out in the predawn darkness with some hope of running in tranquility and respiratory peace.

God knows, I needed some exercise after an unhealthy week of noise, stress and elevated blood pressure.

So it was with great pleasure that I had the golden opportunity to run with the Cairo Hash House Harriers during one of their weekly jaunts to the desert.

See the video on YouTube: Cairo Hash House Harriers "The Climb"

Yes, you meet people, you have fun, you do wild and crazy things while trying not to spill your beer, and perhaps most significantly, you get a chance to run out wild in the mountains and desert and see and breathe the real Egypt, as it was in the time of mythology and Hieroglyphics.

** The attack took place on Feb 22, 2009, killing a French teenager and injuring 24 other people. The attack has said to be linked to the anger with Egypt's role in the Gaza conflict.

Grand Pyramids

2010-05-22T02:23:00.000-07:00

Oh Grand Pyramid that seems to be reaching straight up into the sky
The ancient Egyptians long ago constructed and built you upon high
We know the Egyptians believed that the soul transcended death
The view of the Nile and an ancient pyramid can catch one's breath.
The secrets of a ancient pyramid are revealed from deep inside this mysterious structure.

All mankind can learn from the ancient Egyptians about a pyramids great infrastructure.

My Adventurous Run with the Cairo Hash House Harriers

2010-05-22T01:11:00.000-07:00

I had the great pleasure to run with Cairo Hash House Harriers during one of their weekly jaunts through the desert. You meet people, have fun, do wild and crazy skits while trying not spill your beer, and perhaps most significantly, you get a chance to run out wild in the mountains and desert and see and breathe the real Egypt, as it was in the time of mythology and Hieroglyphics.

Hash House Harriers

2010-05-22T00:00:00.001-07:00

Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

King Tut and Oblivion

2010-05-21T01:34:00.000-07:00

Reflecting:

It's amazing that just nearly 90 years ago, British archaeologist, Howard Carter, found the tomb of King Tut almost completely intact.

The discovery received worldwide press coverage and sparked a renewed public interest in ancient Egypt.

Today, Tutankhamun's burial mask remains the most popular symbol of his rule.

Understanding:

King Tut, who is also referred to as the boy king. King Tut became king at age 9 and died 10 years later.

Some Egyptologist speculate that King Tut was murdered pointing out to X-Rays showing hemorrhaging that prove this theory.

What is amazing is that with all the elaborate work and state-of-the-art science that was expended for his preservation burial, King Tut slipped quietly into oblivion, shortly after this death.

His burial ground was completely forgotten. Huts were even built over the burial entrance.

Navigating
The ancient Egyptians, believed that creating an elaborate set of burial customs including mummification ensured immortality after death. Wealthy Egyptians were buried with their treasure.

And shortly after their deaths, many of these Pharaohs were forgotten. This example illustrates a point that when we die, we cannot take anything with us.

This sad truth reminds us that some material or worldly things are really not so valuable after all.

What's more important is the legacy we leave behind for our future generations.

Searching for Leads on Women's Rights

2010-05-20T22:38:00.000-07:00

It all started with an innocuous email. With four days to spare, I was surfing the Egyptian blogosphere for some good leads. I found a great blog from an American woman who is married to an Egyptian and moved to Cairo in 2008.

Hi,

I really like your blog. I'm in Cairo for only 4 days and would like to report on a story. Do you have any ideas or leads?

Thanks,
Chito

Hello,
Well personally, I don't have a story. But why don't you research an angle of American women that move to Egypt and end up in an abusive relationship and how there is no outlet for them here to press charges or to get help. A link that the American Embassy provides to report abuse leads you to an 800 number in the US. I am not talking about myself, but I do have a good friend who is in this situation.

Now with a story idea, I was in search for a lead. It was past midnight in Cairo, but I was madly on the hunt.

So I posted my status on Facebook. Within minutes, Nicole from Alexandria (the other Alexandria in Virginia) responded back:

Chito Peppler Nicole, I want to find out why women are being abused in Egypt and the government is turning a blind eye.

May 20, 2010 at 5:15pm ·

Nicole The Land Center for Human Rights, a Cairo-based non-governmental organization devoted to women's, children's and farmers' rights, published a report last month on violent crimes committed against women in 2009.

May 20, 2010 at 5:25pm ·

Chito Peppler Nicole, You're an invaluable resource. How did you know this.

May 20, 2010 at 5:32pm ·

Nicole research is my job.. and google!! I am assuming you have all the background you need. Is this for school, work, or personal? Or you can tell me but then you'd have to kill me?

May 20, 2010 at 5:44pm ·

Chito Peppler Your background got me started -- and I'm just getting started. This is for personal. I came to Cairo from Athens on a whim and someone in Cairo led me to this story. I know nothing about it, but now I'm not going to let it go. This story is more important than the Pyramids. Will you pls critique my video once it's made?

May 20, 2010 at 5:48pm ·

Nicole While you are there you should check out the pyramids. Yes, I'll check it out.

May 20, 2010 at 5:56pm ·

Chito Peppler You're awesome Nicole. I'm glad we're friends.

May 20, 2010 at 5:58pm ·

The Great Cairo Scams

2010-05-20T15:53:00.000-07:00

When I arrived at the Pyramids of Giza, the taxi driver was aggressive and misled me by dropping me off a hundred yards away in the midst of souvenir hawkers and camel ride sellers.

I finally pushed my way through the mess of scammers insisting that I wanted to see the Pyramids by myself, on my own and with my own eyes.

Sometimes, the operators will come to you asking if you want to pose for a picture on a camel. Be careful and make sure you bargain for a price first before you hop on. Otherwise, the operator will literally have control of the reins.

Another scam to be aware of in Cairo is the guy who charms you about how nice Americans are and then tells you that his family was killed by an Israeli bomb and his house and business destroyed.

The best way to avoid them is to say "la Shukran." or "No Thanks."

Traveling by subway is easy, fast and a great way to avoid these touts.

Just don't make the mistake I did by almost boarding the "female only" car.

How to Sleep Through Cairo's Noise Nightmare

2010-05-20T11:40:00.000-07:00

I finally learned (after 3 days), the best way to get from Sadat Metro Station (which is near the Museum) to the hostel was to walk diagonally to one iconic roundabout and then walk diagonally to get to the second.

The Qabana Hostel and my host, Haitham, was extremely cordial, hospitable and warm. They allowed me to change rooms many times.

I was blessed to find this hostel from Hostel World. I read reviews from other hostels such as the Regent Hotel down the road that you should avoid at all costs.

This particular room, although, had a great view of the downtown night life was way too noisy for me to sleep in.

All through the night, I tossed and turned as I could hear the chaotic tone of Egyptian traffic swerving and swearing at every corner. I rolled, put a pillow to my ear and tried hard to think of peaceful nights in Cancun. But the rhythmic sound of waves crashing ashore was drowned by the constant beat of horns and brakes and soon I was dreaming that I was insanely aboard a donkey cart in the middle of a four-lane freeway while a semi roared towards me in the center of the lane warning me to get out of the way or become road kill, just another horrid statistic in this City of Congestion.

The Grand Pyramids of Giza

2010-05-20T09:00:00.000-07:00

The Grand Pyramids of Giza are so beautiful and defined even from my plane, several hundred feet up in the air -- what a wonderful way to greet this enchanting city of tombs and minarets. In many ways, admiring the Grand Pyramids from the sky, provides a more incredible vantage point and leaves an indelible mark in your whole experience. Note the third pyramid is partially obstructed by the plane's wing.

After a last minute adjustment from Souda Bay, I was on my way to Egypt -- Land of Eternity.

I could not believe how I got here. I had booked a flight from Souda Bay to Cairo (via Athens) just two hours before the flight. Click here to read my travels in Greece.
It was all last minute, but it wasn't because I was disorganized or had failed to plan. It was because spontaneity breeds adventure...