RUNIN France

Reflecting on D-Day: Crossing the Channel

2010-07-22T21:59:00.000-07:00

I wanted to reflect what it was like spending a night in the English Channel before the actual invasion. How nerve racking it must have been for the soldiers. Did they go to bed? Did they sleep well? How could they if they knew what would be awaiting them the next day.

The seas were rough that night. Many of the soldiers fell sick. The space was jammed. Bunks were six deep and each berthing compartment held about 50 men.

In the evening, I headed down the Brittany Ferry's assigned seating area. I would try to sleep well tonight. But first I would have to reflect on the past and what it was like for the men on June 2-4th, 1944.

By early morning, we arrived in Portsmouth at 0600. I was weary but ready and excited to see my niece, Rio.

Portsmouth is a very historic, thriving commercial ferryport with a lot to do and offer. Today, it is home to some famous Naval ships including HMS Warrior and Lord Nelson's flagship, HMS Victory.

A French destroyer inport in the harbor of Portsmouth

The Spinnaker Tower is a great icon and represents Portsmouth's deep nautical significance and naval history.

It was only about an hour ride on a train to London before I caught the Tube to Gunnersbury, near Chiswick.

We are the Champions

2010-07-22T12:54:00.000-07:00

Neil Proposes to Jill at the Eiffel

2010-07-22T12:16:00.000-07:00

Pretty Woman Dancing by the Eiffel

2010-07-22T05:32:00.001-07:00

Refections from Normandy

2010-07-21T07:56:00.001-07:00

Normandy

2010-07-21T03:23:00.000-07:00

Gold Beach

2010-07-19T11:53:00.000-07:00

Normandy: My 20 Years in the Navy was Nothing Compared to this

2010-07-18T13:36:00.000-07:00

"It was a travesty to see how so many young, boundless lives were forever lost on this bloody foreign beach. At the American Cemetery, I could see thousands of white crosses and Stars of David facing patriotically towards their homeland."

My retirement from the Navy wouldn't be complete without paying homage to the D-Day troops in Normandy. Americans, British, Canadians -- it didn't matter which flag they were flying -- they stood up for unity against Nazi aggression and many fell to their gravesites on these beaches.

Over Sixty-five years later, the hilly seaside bears few scars from the dark and gray day of June 6, 1944. But on that longest day, things had turned to hell in a hurry.

I could not imagine these young soldiers jumping out of their LCAs, crossing the slippery beach and climbing the cliff face via ropes and grappling hooks in the face of nasty fire.
It was extremely unnerving. The soldiers could hear the heavy thump of shells bombarding the exterior of the coffin-like LCAs as they were approaching the shore. They knew death was knocking. But they kept approaching. They kept their mind affixed on the Star Spangled Banner and Her Majesty the Queen.

Some shells hit dead on, the LCAs exploding into tiny pieces like a box of eggs dropped from a high-rise tower. Many soldiers perished from gunshot, blast or drowning before even hitting the shore. They would never set foot on the foreign beach they aspired to reach, the sea crimson red, their faces, white with shock and trepidation.

In this picture of the approach, you could easily discern the fear in this young soldier's face.

It was a travesty to see how so many young, boundless lives were forever lost on the blood-soaked beaches. At the American Cemetery, I could see thousands of white crosses and Stars of David facing patriotically towards their homeland, saluting with only a smile. This is the final resting place for 9,400 Americans along with a monument to 1,500 more listed as missing in action. How sad that we never found their bodies -- brave Americans who never got to come home, but just washed away in the sea.

Thankfully the beaches still bear witness to the immense human sacrifice. Many of the German battery sites are maintained in excellent condition (since many of the young Germans had surrendered without putting up a fight). As a result, today we are offered a rare glimpse into a living, life-less museum that clearly depicts the power and plight of the mighty German defensive. Luckily, many of the "slave' troops from Eastern Europe and Asia would surrender at the first opportunity. Many of the troops in Normandy were comprised of an international army made up of troops from throughout the Soviet empire and even Chinese and Koreans. Can you imagine the looks in the eyes of our GIs when they first faced their enemies.

But still many Germans fought viciously and effectively. The Germans had four huge casements with a 205 mm cannon. These guns were effective in dueling with American battleships. For eight days, the German soldiers stayed inside the casements with virtually nothing to eat and drink but stale bread and bad water. They had no place to use the bathroom -- yet they stayed. Many did not surrender until they ran out of ammunition.

Pointe du Hoc

If I could choose only one place to visit, I would decide to come here. Why? Because this particular skirmish was even more incredible than Omaha. Prior to the invasion, the Allied forces were deeply concerned about the five giant 155 MM coastal artillery guns that were stationed here, poised to bear fire at any forces approaching Omaha Beach to the west and Juno Beach to the East. It was one of the most important objectives in the early part of the invasion, and it was also one of the most dangerous.

155 MM gun

But why didn't the Allied Forces send the Navy or Air Force to take out the guns? Because they were believed to be buried in bunkers and out of sight of bombers.

At Pointe du Hoc, the famous site where heroic Rangers led by Colonel Rudder assaulted the German battery site on the precipitous cliff, there are dozens of very deep craters caused by mortar from the Allied bombs and shells that had missed their targets. It was here where a navigation error caused the Rangers to miss their mark (by 40 minutes), losing valuable time and the critical element of surprise.

And the biggest surprise when the Rangers finally arrived and climbed the cliffs of Pointe du Hoc -- there were no big guns in the encasements -- they had all been moved inland for safety.

Because of the navigation error, the Leadership believed that the Ranger mission had failed. Thus no reinforcements were sent for nearly two days. During this time, the Rangers were under counter attack and had no food or water. They dug in and it was not until around noon of June 8 that relief forces arrived and forced the Germans to withdraw.

All these men were heroes and despite the guns been gone, they gave their all for the cause. The 2nd Ranger Battalion suffered 135 losses out of the 225 men that landed (70% casualties)

This tragic feat of heroism proves once again how accurate intelligence, attention to detail and constant communications can save the day. Still, reinforcements took way too long to come which even makes the feat of Colonel Rudder and the Rangers even more incredible. They overcame insurmountable odds to accomplish their mission (even if it was one that was not necessary) and with their backs literally to the cliffs, defeated five bloody German counterattacks.

One cannot be but deeply moved by the sacrifices of thousands of soldiers who gave it all for the liberation of Europe. And it was not just the Americans that risked their lives. It was our beloved Allies.

Juno

Tomorrow, I will pay homage to Juno Beach where the Canadians had made their courageous landing. Juno happened to be the second most heavily defended of the five landing sites chose. The seawall was twice the height of Omaha and the sea was heavily mined. The next night I will make an overnight trip across the British Channel to Portsmouth where many of the soldiers sailed from.

Vanessa, our tour guide giving us an outstanding tour at a German artillery bunker at Longues-sur Mer

In Flanders Fields
By: Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, MD (1872-1918)
Canadian Army

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

German surprise was complete and their forces disorganized. First they were sure the Allies would attack further north on the Pas-de-Calais. Thus they had placed the bulk of the panzer forces there. These forces were not available for counter-attack on D-Day.

Counterattack

There was still an opportunity for the Germans to fight back. Rommel had the forces. But his panzer forces were not readily available. Also the Commander-in-Chief West was powerless to commit the strategic reserve with the authority of Hitler himself. And Hitler slept till noon.

My Swim and Final Reflections

As I went for a swim in the bitter cold English Channel, I had to simply ponder whether if I was a young soldier during Normandy, would I risk my life in the same way for my country. I thought long and hard. And the simple answer was yes, but would I be brave enough to carry it out the same way these men did. That is an enduring question that bears no easy answers.

I came ashore, dried off and methodically wiped away my tears. I had visited Haiti in March where I shed tears of compassion. Here in these rugged shores, I shed tears of gratitude.

Tomorrow, I cross the English Channel to Portsmouth. I've played this scene in my head a million times. As much as I love my country, I also love the joy of living. I would have gone to Normandy, without a doubt. But would I have the guts to get off that boat and carry it out?

Family Home in Bayeux -- Great Bargain

2010-07-18T11:31:00.000-07:00

What a wonderful bargain this was. Convenient, Comfortable, Charming.

The only hostel in town and meets the budget. Also historic, clean spacious.

Even the French breakfast was delicious and plenty. We ate so much, we could skip lunch altogether.

I got there around 8 pm and the place was already closed. Luckily a friend let me stay with her until the next day. It was cold but a warm bed and very clean.

The whole place was a little worn down in places, but that gives it a family home feel. There were spiral staircases, exposed beams -- lots of character and authentically French. I believe the home dates back to the 18th century and is the oldest home I've ever spent the night in.

The courtyard was lovely and very charming with an old red telephone booth.

The owner doesn't speak much English, but after all we're in France.

The Louvre

2010-07-17T14:52:00.001-07:00

Notre Dame

2010-07-17T13:49:00.000-07:00

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, so gothic so old.
It houses the skull of John the Baptist encased in gold
Built in the 13th century to honor the Virgin the Mary
The stained glass in the North Rose window shows Mary holding the Holy Child close.

Biking the Normandy Landings

2010-07-17T11:52:00.000-07:00

This is the land where William the Conqueror set sail in 1066 and where the Allies landed in 1944.

Biking in Normandy and visiting the D-Day landmarks and memorial is simply amazing. The ride from Bayeux where Niki, Dillion and I rented our bikes is only about 8 miles (although it took us 45 minutes to get there since we took the circuitous route). There were many storybook villages and the luscious of green pastures on the way, so we thoroughly enjoyed being lost.

William the Conqueror depicted in the famous Bayeux tapestry

But once along the stunning seacoast, the views were wind-swept, magnificent and momentous. We parked our bikes and took a scenic journey along the beach for a few miles. Running, swimming, enjoying the weather and reminiscing the past.

We had lunch in a small town called Courseulles-Sur-Mer, a popular tourist destination for foreigners and locals alike. There were many elaborate summer homes along the beachside owned by affluent Parisians. We ate a modest meal, our minds were wheeling, our appetites had waned -- the cheese was delicious and the cider fresh and wholesome. Actually, we were dying to taste some of the muscles and oysters that were farmed from the seabed -- but unfortunately, it was peak tourist season. Then daredevil Dillion led us along a very rugged bike ride along the coast almost all the way to Omaha. There were breathtaking views where we could better see and imagine how the Allies made their courageous offensive. From our vantage point, there was lots of history to reflect, remember and embrace.

Eiffel Tower -- When a Eyesore became a Icon

2010-07-16T19:37:00.001-07:00

Built in 1889 for the World's Fair, it was also the world's most tall

Parisians called it an eyesore they were really appalled.

Eiffel begged the city to keep it for 20 long years.

Today, from every Paris rooftop, the gargantuan tower appears

I wrote this limerick because I was quite amazed by this story. Many times in the past, an artist, an architect, an idealist creates a ingenious work of art. No one recognizes it right away, or worst, they mock it.

It is only many years later or even until after their death, is their work recognized for being amazingly brilliant. One recent example is "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" by Swedish author and journalist Stieg Larsson.

The Louvre

2010-07-16T05:11:00.000-07:00

The Louvre means a fortified place and also an opening or window
Transformed by every monarch, it has become a world-renowned symbol
Once a medieval fortress, it was completely revitalized during the period of Renaissance by King Francis
Featured in the Da Vinchi Code, it is described as a gorgeous palace

Enticing, Breathtaking, it is a global icon that we all cherish.

Eiffel Tower

2010-07-16T04:48:00.000-07:00

Built in 1889 for the World's Fair, it was also the world's most tall

Parisians called it an eyesore they were really appalled.

Eiffel begged the city to keep it for 20 long years.

Today, from every Paris rooftop, the gargantuan tower appears

Bastille Day 2010 Fireworks at Eiffel Tower

2010-07-15T01:30:00.001-07:00

Space-A Globemaster to Germany Enroute to Frontlines

2010-07-15T01:15:00.000-07:00

I was waiting patiently at the air terminal in Andrews Air Force Base. I had just four hours to prepare to get here. Would I make the flight or would I have to return home hoping to catch another flight later this week?

I had the pleasure of flying a C-17 Globemaster III Medevac flight from the 172nd Guard AW out of Mississippi-Jackson. We flew from Andrews Air Force Base to Ramstein, Germany.

Onboard the plane was none other than CNN Pentagon Correspondent, Barbara Starr. Barbara was on the way to Afghanistan to cover a medevac story with the Air Mobility Command.

I had the pleasure to work with Barbara at the News Desk at DoD in 2006--2008. She is a first class journalist who is quick and very thorough.

I also have nothing but words of praise for the medevac crews. I worked with them a lot while serving at the National Naval Medical Center in Bethesda.

During the first week of August, the CNN coverage will air in a 3-day series

Barbara Starr with Jon Stock just outside the C-17 in Afghanistan

To read the story, please click here.

The Journey Home from the Frontlines of War

Hello Kindle, Goodbye Borders

2010-07-10T06:48:00.000-07:00

"Books no longer, get lost on the shelf. They can be accessed even in the remote parts of the world, even that clunky textbook. With the Kindle, once you buy a book, it's forever yours."

Reminiscing

I used to love Borders and Barnes and Nobles. I would spend countless hours, flipping away at shelves, relaxing in the comfy chairs, eating away at books and sipping Seattle's Best.

Those were the days. Long, and lazy with nothing in store but a good book and an open mind. Now those long, lazy days are long gone....

Planning for my European Backpacking Trip

When I was planning my trip to Europe, I knew I would spend countless hours waiting for a plane, for a train or riding on one. Since I was backpacking, I had to travel light. I was convinced then that I needed to purchase a Kindle. And since Amazon had just reduced the price on the Kindle 2 by 20%, I was off running to Target to make that storied purchase.

It didn't take me long to get acclimated. Within a couple of days, I had made my obligatory purchase of War and Peace, all 1500 pages of it which was downloaded in less than a minute. Surely, I would not be able to carry a hardcopy book of this novel aboard a plane without been charged for additional luggage. And on a Kindle, I can carry 2500 books, which Amazon hopes you will purchase.

Free Ebooks

Not so fast. Buying a Kindle doesn't necessarily mean charging up your credit card.

The very next thing I did was visit Planet Ebooks to get free version of classic literature. This is easily done using my Amazon email.

English Literature

So the Kindle opens new doors to the world of Classic English literature. Welcome to A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, one of my all time favorite books about the intellectual and religious awakenings of Stephen Dedalus.

And yes, sometimes English literature can be more complex than American. And when I am stumped, I can easily download a Cliff's Notes version without having to rush to the store.

Learn French or Read the Huffington Post.

The third thing I did was sign up for a free 14-day subscription to a number of blogs that I felt would interest me or help me throughout my trip. For example, FrenchPod101.com could come in handy if I decided to visit Paris.

In truth, I did not really know where I would be going. Just happy to catch a Medevac flight to Ramstein and from there, played it all by ear.

When You Need Info in a Jiffy

But when I finally decided in the last minute to catch a train from Frankfurt to Paris, I needed information right away about places to see and hostels in the area, so I downloaded Lonely Planet France via the Whispernet which worked very reliably and quickly.

Some Samples are Nuggets of (Free) Info

What was also great were the many samples that you I ordered for free. Many of the samples (especially tourist guide books) were chock-full of information and came in very handy throughout my travels.

Highlighting without a Marker

Although I didn't highlight much, I particularly liked the new feature that allows me to see where other people have highlighted. I liked this featured (which can be turned off), since it gives me info about what parts other people found interesting. Many times, I would have completely missed it. In a way, reading an ebook is kind of like reading a blog, since we are able to get almost instantaneous input from other readers. It's a way of collaborating -- I'm sure in the future, there will be a way to read other people's notes.

Can it Talk?

Sometimes, I would get tired of reading. Especially on those long train rides (Frankfurt to Paris) or the long ferry rides (Caen to Portsmouth). But my mind was still intellectually primed and I still had time to kill. So I would simply turn on the text to speech function and slide into the lazy mode. The automated reading was not very easy to listen to (Oddly, I prefer the male over the female), but it was definitely better than missing out on the information completely. Actually, I would prefer to listen to my Ipod, but it may not be as mentally stimulating.

Works Well in Europe

I had no problems at all. I downloaded many books and sample while waiting for the train or even riding on a train. With my mind, you never know where it may drift to. If I saw someone reading a good book or overhear someone talking about a particular topic, I immediately wanted to search it. That's the way my mind works, but life is more exciting that way.

Wiki and Google Worked Like a Charm

Absolutely. I made sure to bring it whenever I took a guided tour or when I was just walking or running around. Since I didn't have Iphone connectivity, I relied on my Kindle to give background Wiki information about a particular monument or historical building.

But wait, isn't the Ipad better?

Absolutely if you want to surf the internet, but the Ipad weighs over twice as much and is much more clunky. I wouldn't necessarily carry my Ipad when taking tours. Also the Kindle is more weather resistant for those on again, off again British rains. The battery lasts forever and it is very easy on the eyes. You just got stare at an LCD screen forever without your eyes drying up. Plus the Amazon has virtually every book you can imagine which BTW can be read on your IPad (Amazon has an application that allows you to read your book across various devices), once you purchased it. Books no longer, get lost on the shelf. They can be accessed even in the remote parts of the world, even that clunky textbook. With the Kindle, once you buy a book, it's forever yours. And the best advantage of all, the Kindle is way, way cheaper.

And Now the Best Feature of All..

Ok, so I have gotten there yet. What I found, you may find surprising. Since I am generally a slow reader -- I like to chew on words -- it makes my thinking more rich. And sometimes my mild attention deficit disorder kicks in and I simply have to set my Kindle down on my lap.

When this happens, I love to read a specific book by searching for keywords. By typing in a specific keyword (the more specific the better), I get to browse through the entire book in a jiffy. I can then scroll down and review a particular page that interests me.

I know this sounds obvious, but for some reason, reading by keywords gives me immediate context since it helps me connect the dots. I know it's cheating, but life is about innovation, and if it helps me get through the book faster, there's more time to browse other books.

Take it Aboard Metro

So now that I'm home, what are my plans with the Kindle? Like my Android and Ipod, I promise to keep it close to me at all times. It's light enough to stow away in your backpack and easy on the eyes, even in dim lighting. You never know when you will be waiting for that metro train and want to read something intellectual besides "The Express" or "The Examiner" or on Thursdays, "The City Paper". Besides, if there's standing room only, I end up reading other people's copies of the headlines, anyway.

And for that Borders -- yes I still love them. If I had time, I could stow away in one for days.

But for my Kindle, I simply have a love affair.