Hiking, Trekking, and Adventure Travel Blog | Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures

Willi Glanznig Reclaims Crown at U.S.A. Powder 8 Championship

2012-03-06T14:53:00.005-08:00

Telluride, CO-The next time you hike with Ryder-Walker guide Willi Glanznig, don’t be alarmed if he starts jumping from side to side on the trail as if he’s trying to make perfectly synchronized turns. He’s just sneaking in some off-season training. When he’s not leading hiking tours with Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures, Willi makes figure eight turns on the snow, and it’s something that he does well.

Proving that his off-season jumping helps on the snow, Willi took first place at the U.S. Powder 8 Championships held this past weekend in Aspen, Colorado. What’s more, this marks the second time that Willi grabbed the coveted crown at the U.S.A. Powder 8. Willi and his partner Dieter Frank won the championship, also held in Aspen, back in 2006.

The U.S. Powder 8 Championship is an annual two-day competition that scores two-person ski teams on their ability to make perfect figure eight turns on the snow. Day one is an elimination round held on groomed runs, while day two carries the remaining teams into the ungroomed back bowls of the Rocky Mountains. Once in the backcountry, the teams descend with each skier crossing their teammate's tracks in effort to make perfectly shaped figure eight turns. Judges score each team on the synchronization of their turns, dynamic skiing, and roundness/symmetry/line of descent.

Making ski turns may sound easy, but skiing in perfect harmony with a partner takes a lot of experience, training and concentration, something that Willi has been perfecting since he first started skiing at the age of three. Fortunately, for Willi and his teammate Steve Cieciuch, all that experience paid off. (With a little trail jumping on the side).

Congrats to Willi and Steve! Visit the USA Powder 8 Championship website for full results and more info.

Image: Willi Glanznig | Coutesy of Telluride Ghostriders

Top Ten Beds With a View: Mürren Hotel Makes the List

2012-02-28T10:40:00.005-08:00

“Rooms with a view are heavenly, but beds with a view are divine," writes the Chicago Tribune.
Our sentiments exactly!

Congrats to Ruth, Othmar and their team at the Hotel Bellevue Crystal, our preferred stop in Mürren, Switzerland. They recently made the Chicago Tribune’s top ten list: “Beds With a View.” Wunderbar!

We'll hike to Mürren and the Hotel Bellevue Crystal during our 10-day Via Alpine Stage 2.
The dates for this inn-to-inn hiking tour are July 26-August 4, 2012. Won't you join us?

Find Your Own Snow Cloud: Discovering Pure Powder Skiing in the Alps

2012-02-15T14:10:00.000-08:00

That’s Ryder-Walker’s founder and president, Peter Walker, and he’s smiling because he has something that many of us wish we had-his own personal snow cloud. While we won’t say that it ALWAYS snows when he takes people skiing in the Alps, (for fear of jinxing future ski tours), it sure seems like it ALWAYS snows when he takes people skiing in the Alps. (Get it?)

This year was a strange one for the snow situation in Europe, and everywhere for that matter. While Cordova, Alaska dug out from nearly 20 feet of snow, our friends in Switzerland and France kept sending us these notes.

“Rien. Rien. Rien.” Nothing. Nothing. Nothing.

“C’est où ça?” Where’s the snow?

Then it happened. About the time that Peter and the Alpenglow team turned their freshly-waxed skis toward Europe, it dumped. Then it dumped again. Then it dumped some more. It even snowed in Rome!

Am I putting the snow at Peter’s feet? I am not. But I have noticed some interesting coincidences when it comes to snowy weather patterns and ski tours in Europe organized by our sister company, Alpenglow Ski Safaris. Whether it’s a highly refined art of manifestation, or just good luck, Alpenglow has some kind of mountain mojo that makes people smile. Just have a look at this photo.

That’s John Buzza. He had the time of his life during Alpenglow’s recent ski tour in La Grave, France. (Notice the snow).

Ryder-Walker head guide, Ken Fuhrer, put up some great photos of the trip. You can see them here. RW guide and adventure guru, Staffan Bjorklund, also blogged about the trip. Check it out here.

Feeling a little dry this winter? Give Peter and the Alpenglow team a call. They'll help you find your own snow cloud.

Images from top to bottom: Peter Walker, happy because he said it would dump, and it did; John Buzza loving it; Staffan and John celebrating a day well-skied. | All images by Ken Fuhrer, La Grave, France.

New Hiking Tour in Southern Italy: Capri & the Amalfi Coast

2012-02-08T09:20:00.000-08:00

It is a real pleasure to write about our new self guided hiking tour of Capri & the Amalfi Coast. As I sort through the details concerning our newest hiking tour in southern Italy, one thing stands out in my mind. The Amalfi Coast is truly enchanting. Who wouldn’t want to go there?

The region surrounding Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula has everything that you could ask for in a “civilized” hiking vacation, from scenic hillside walks like the Sentiero degli Dei (the Trail of the Gods), to quiet dinners beneath the pagliarelle, traditional straw canopies that transform your dinner table into an intimate dining experience. From natural wonders like the Faraglioni, three highly-photographed rock formations standing off the coast of Capri, to man-made luxuries like limoncello, a delectable lemon-flavored liqueur and specialty of the region, you’ll find something beautiful, delicious, or both, waiting around every corner.

Our seven-day hiking tour begins in Sorrento, Italy, a coastal town famous for its legendary views of Naples, Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius. You’ll spend one night at our favorite hotel in Sorrento before hopping on a boat for a brief transfer to Isle of Capri. Once on Capri, you’ll be in heaven. We guarantee it. We’ve selected the best hikes on Capri, but since this is a self-guided hiking tour, you can indulge in anything you like. Explore ancient villas. Visit tourist sites like the Grotta Azzurra, a popular sea cave that glows with electric blue light. Take a swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea. We’ve designed this itinerary so that you can lose yourself in Capri, from coastline walks and Mediterranean vistas, to exquisite boutiques and sun-soaked Dolce Vita. This is a perfect trip for couples, especially if he wants to shop, but she wants to hike.

After two days on the island of Capri, you’ll transfer back to the mainland, this time to the south side of the Sorrentine Peninsula and a famous port village called Amalfi. While most people know Amalfi for its dramatic cliffs, coastal views and a cascade of terraced villages, there is infinitely more to this seaside gem than what we’ve been shown in Hollywood. With our hike descriptions in hand, you’ll explore the Amalfi that inspires filmmakers, walking along footpaths laid down by the Romans centuries ago. You’ll see the medieval architecture in the center of town, including sites like the Duomo di Amalfi, an eleventh century cathedral, and the Museo della Carta, a fourteenth century paper mill, and you’ll climb 1,700 feet above the village to witness the mountain culture of southern Italy. You’ll also have a chance to sample limoncello, the principal specialty of Amalfi, and you’ll wander through the tranquil lemon orchards that produce this classic Italian cocktail. Following a traditional lunch at a quiet hamlet high in the hills, (and provided you didn’t sample too much limoncello), you’ll return to Amalfi via the Antrani trail, descending hundreds of ancient stairs directly to the sea.

No walking tour of the Amalfi Coast would be complete without a visit to Positano. There is something distinctly “Italian” about this tiny fishing village. Maybe it’s the gentle sound of clinking wine glasses by the water, or the smell of Italian cooking on the salty sea air, but something about Positano feels very calming and timeless. You’ll access Positano by hiking along the Sentiero degli Dei (the Trail of the Gods), and if you haven’t blown through your memory cards during the first half of the trip, then you’ll certainly fill them up during your last two hiking days. You’ll enjoy huge views over the Mediterranean Sea and you’ll discover why people refer to Positano as, “the vertical city,” a nod to the terraces of homes that seemingly tumble down the hillsides and into the sea. You’ll have plenty of time to relax on the beach or hike dizzying trails in the hills. Have dinner on the water, or simply relax in your eighteenth century 4 star hotel. That’s the glory of a self-guided hiking tour through southern Italy! We make it easy to enjoy La Dolce Vita.

Please visit our tour page for the full Capri & the Amalfi Coast itinerary.

Tour Preview: Why it's OK to be Blue in Bavaria

2012-01-18T12:38:00.000-08:00

White and blue are the colors of Bavaria, and if you join us for a hiking tour through Germany’s Bavarian Tyrol, then you’ll quickly discover why.

The colors white and blue are as symbolic of Bavarian culture as haute cuisine and fine wine are symbolic of the French. “And preserve you the colors of his sky, white and blue,” sings the Bavarian national anthem. Look up to the mountains and you’ll see white fluffy clouds and sparkling alpine snows. Behold the brilliant blue sky upon which Bavaria’s beauty unfolds.

Brief History

There is an old story that the Counts of Bogen first adopted the white and blue rhombus pattern of the Bavarian flag back in 1204. The Wittelbach family took it over in 1247 for use as their family coat of arms, and the colors have been with Bavaria ever since. While historians might disagree on the original meaning behind the colors, everybody agrees that the white and blue shield does a fine job of representing Bavaria as a whole. When presented with an option to choose different colors back in 1950, the people voted unanimously to keep white and blue as the official colors of Bavaria.

The Bavarians are very proud of their colors, evidenced by the abundance of white and blue flags that adorn the castles, beer houses and chalets dotting the Bavarian landscape. When you hike through the Bavarian countryside, you’ll begin to understand why white and blue are such an integral part of Bavarian culture.

White and blue are the colors of the sky, but white and blue also represent the lakes and streams that constrast so vividly with the green Bavarian hills. White and frozen in winter, blue and shimmering in summer, the lakes and rivers of Bavaria delight hikers and visitors from around the globe.

We’ll visit three of Bavaria’s cherished mountain lakes during our new 8 day Bavarian Tyrol Trek. Beginning just outside of Munich, we’ll spend two nights on the Tegernsee, a lake famous for its 8th century Benedictine Abbey, relaxing spa resorts and scenic position at the base of the Bavarian Alps. We’ll spend two nights at our favorite 4 star hotel.

Moving into the mountains, we’ll hike on high trails before descending via singletrack and farmroad to the Kochelsee. A regular home for artists and anyone with a penchant for beautiful places, the Kochelsee offers expansive views from its surrounding mountain summits. A semicircle of mountains borders the southern shore of this lake, while hiking trails go off in every direction. We’ll spend one night at our preferred 3 star hotel.

Our second-to-last hiking day finds us snapping photos over the Walchensee, one of the largest and deepest alpine lakes in Germany. Due to its geopgraphic location, and protected from northern and easterly winds, the Walchensee enjoys a milder climate than most mountain lakes. Sadly, we won’t spend the night on this lake, but we’ll be in Garmisch, home to Germany's highest peak and an equally cool place to be.

See our tour page to learn more about the Bavarian Tyrol Trek.

Or contact us for more details.

Red

2012-01-11T09:16:00.000-08:00

"Where I live, the open space of desire is red. The desert before me is red is rose is pink is scarlet is magenta is salmon. The colors are swimming in light as it changes constantly, with cloud cover with rain with wind with light, delectable light, delicious light. The palette of erosion is red, is running red water, red river, my own blood downriver; my desire is red. The landscape can be read. A flight of birds. A flight of words. Red-winged blackbirds are flocking the river in spring. In cattails, they sing and sing, on the riverbank they glisten.

Can we learn to speak the language of red?"

--Terry Tempest Williams, from RED: Passion and Patience in the Desert.

Experience red for yourself. Our 2012 Arches & Canyonlands hiking tour departs on May 5th. Won't you join us?

Image: Redrock spires.
Arches & Canyonlands, Arizona | Ken Fuhrer

Tools of the Trade: Enjoying Good Food in Slovenia

2012-01-06T10:29:00.000-08:00

Pots, woodfires and spoons; these are the tools of the trade.

When you stop at a watering hole in Slovenia, you get fresh homemade goodness with every ladle. Take the Brunarica Pri Ingotu, for example. You won’t find industrialized pre-packaged plastic food at this hiker’s retreat. No way!

This cozy timberlodge, a favorite stop on our Slovenian Triglav Circuit, serves local food and drink made with love, and they do it in a beautiful mountain setting. Note: the view of the Jasenje meadow and the surrounding Julian Alps is divine. Treat yourself!

Dropping In For Lunch

2011-12-29T09:37:00.000-08:00

This image generated a fair bit of conversation on our facebook page, so we thought we post it on our blog for even more people to enjoy.

Ken Fuhrer shot this image of our crew descending to the Berggasthaus Rotsteinpass (2120 meters) during one of last year's private hiking tours through the Appenzell region of eastern Switzerland.

The hut at the Rotsteinpass occupies a strategic position for climbing the Altmann (2435 meters), the second highest peak in the Alpstein mountain range. The climb is a relatively easy one, but as you can see from the photo, it is not for the acrophobe.

You can read more about the Appenzell region at our website, www.ryderwalker.com/self_appenzellerland.html

We'll join you...

2011-12-23T08:41:00.000-08:00

Update: Read Our 2012 Catalog Online

2011-12-15T14:20:00.000-08:00

Click here to read our 2012 hiking tour catalog on your computer, tablet or smartphone.

www.ryderwalker.com/catalog

Get Yours: The 2012 Catalog Is Here

2011-12-09T14:31:00.000-08:00

For those of you on our mailing list, expect your catalog within the week.

Not on our mailing list? Request your free copy.

And, check out these new tours for 2012:

Zanskar Chadar Trek

Join world-renowned photographer Ace Kvale for an exploration through northern India.

January 2012

Via Alpina Stage 3

Continue our four-stage hike across the length of Switzerland.

August 2012

Bavarian Tyrol Trek

Guided and self guided hikes through Germany's magical Bavarian Alps.

June-September 2012

Ireland: The Dingle Way

Hike self guided across Ireland's stunning Dingle Peninsula.

April-October 2012

Please give us a call, or drop us an email if you have questions about any of our tours.

Within the U.S., 888.586.8365

Outside the U.S., +1 970.728.6481

See you on the trail!

Over 100 Images of Zanskar

2011-11-30T07:57:00.000-08:00

The mountain scenery on our new Zanskar Chadar Trek will give you thousands of photos, but it’s the people that we meet during the trip that will give you a lifetime of memories.

Explore the Zanskar culture with world-class photographer Ace Kvale. Ace is our trip leader on the Zanskar Chadar Trek, and he’s assembled more than 100 images of the people and landscapes that we’ll experience along the way. Click here to view Ace’s online Zanskar Photo Gallery.

Then give us a call, or drop us an email, to find out more about this once in-a-lifetime adventure.

Thankful.

2011-11-23T12:34:00.000-08:00

What are we thankful for?

Big mountains,
long trails,
and good friends, (like you), to share them with.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Image: Guests hiking through Appenzell, Switzerland | Ken Fuhrer

Living Up To Our Name

2011-11-04T15:27:00.000-07:00

The Global Trekking Specialists

Melanie Eggers
Managing Director, Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures
Location: Italy, organizing a new hiking tour.

Ken Fuhrer
Lead Guide, Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures
Coordinates: Africa, researching a new hike.

Staffan Björklund
Speed Man and Ryder-Walker Guide
Status: Racing La Ruta de Los Conquistatores.

Peter Walker and Daniel Sundqvist
Founder, Director of Trip Development (respectively)
Activity: Working on a joint project in Utah.

New tours on the horizon? Absolutely.
Sitting around eating potato chips? Certainly not.
When can we see the new tours? Stay with us to find out.

Rush Hour

2011-10-28T10:52:00.000-07:00

Engadine Summit Series, Switzerland | Ken Fuhrer

Marmot Vid: The Zanskar Odyssey

2011-10-26T12:28:00.000-07:00

Here's another plug for the Zanskar Chadar Trek.

This Marmot-sponsored film follows a group of pro climbers from New Delhi to the Indian Himalayas as they search for remote bouldering in the greatest mountain range in the world.

While the film centers around bouldering, anyone interested in the wilds of northern India will enjoy it too. I couldn't keep my eyes off the "pass of a thousand corpses." Thankfully, we'll be walking along the Zanskar River and not riding the bus!

Like what you see?

Then also check out...

Part 2- Destination Basecamp

Part 3- A New Dawn

Part 4- The Battle of Little Big Rocks

Part 5- This is Ten!

You can purchase the video in its entirety at hdclimbingvideos.com

See The World Through Ace's Eyes

2011-10-21T10:22:00.000-07:00

We mentioned earlier that Ace Kvale is in charge of our new Zanskar Chadar Trek. Ace is one of the world’s top adventure photographers whose work has appeared in dozens of books, magazines and movies around the globe.

While Ace’s photography put him on the map, it is his penchant for wild adventure that sets him apart from everybody else. Dangling from helicopters, climbing huge mountains and skiing first descents, places him in ideal positions to capture stunning photos. Additionally, having traveled to more than sixty different countries, including 25 expeditions to the Himalayas alone, it’s not cliché to say that, “Ace Kvale has seen it all.” He really has.

It’s worth taking time out of your day to visit Ace’s online photo gallery. You’ll find images of Alaska, the Himalayas, the Alps and more. Ace shoots the type of images that belong in National Geographic. In fact, Ace Kvale shoots images FOR National Geographic. Exotic places and vanishing cultures are his domain.

Ace breaks his portfolio into four categories:

We recommend viewing them all. Pay special attention to the images labled “Zanskar.” That’s where we’re going in mid January.

We’d also like to add that Ace will present every Zanskar attendee a signed commemorative work from the trip. Given Ace’s stature in the world of photography, this is a really special gift. If you love photography and wild places, then the Zanskar Chadar Trek is a once-in-a lifetime opportunity.

Images:
Ace Kvale striking a pose for his Sensai, Tibet.
Young monk, Lingshed, Zanskar, India.

Film: Journey from Zanskar

2011-10-17T12:01:00.000-07:00

Thinking about our new Zanskar Chadar Trek? Check out the film Journey from Zanskar. It's definitely moving. Watch the trailer, and search for screening locations at journeyfromzanskar.com

Only TWO Days Left to Save!

2011-10-13T10:19:00.000-07:00

REMINDER-Our special extended offer expires on October 15th, 2011. This is a great way to book early and save money on a 2012 hiking tour.

Thinking about a hiking tour for next summer? Give us a call today and lock in a lower price. Yes!

Image: Peak bagging above Sils Maria, Switzerland
Engadine Summit Series, Switzerland | Ken Fuhrer

Hiking in Appenzell-Day 6 | "With Songs They Have Sung for a Thousand Years"

2011-10-11T10:26:00.000-07:00

This is a continuation of Ryder-Walker guest Lisa Allen's account of the Appenzell region of eastern Switzerland. Please also read "Hiking in Appenzell" days 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

I visited Appenzell, Switzerland for the first time, for a day, last year, with a group with whom I was touring Switzerland and I knew, long before we arrived, that I would fall deeply and fully in love with the area and the town. In fact, I adore it and feel as though perhaps, in another life, I was or shall be there. The neatly trimmed hills, with cattle quietly grazing, the superb chalets with barns attached, the colorful customs and traditions, tried and true, practiced and upheld through time, the buildings painted with ancient and spiritual trims combine to fill me with awe and as deep a sense of joy as one can experience without bursting at the seams.

When I am in Appenzell, I feel as though I have arrived home, finally and in totality. In Appenzellerland and the town, too, all that is Swiss and especially beautiful is epitomized and held dear.

Nothing pleases me more than to share my fun there, the childlike joy I experienced during my journey. I intend to make at least an annual "pilgrimage" to this place of miracles, where my soul becomes interwoven with countryside and custom until it is indistinguishable from them.

Lisa Allen, SE Mass.

Image courtesy of Switzerland Tourism | C. Sonderegger

Hiking in Appenzell-Day 5 | "Under the Arch"

2011-10-10T13:35:00.000-07:00

This is a continuation of Ryder-Walker guest Lisa Allen's account of the Appenzell region of eastern Switzerland. Please also read "Hiking in Appenzell" days 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Let us return to the Cattle Show in Appenzell. We have learned about the attire of the participants and established that herd after herd are brought through the town, with white goats led by children often in the lead, under a well-decorated welcoming arch, to the grounds of the show, where the cattle are tied for part of the day, with hay and water available. Many visitors of many nationalities, too, come to admire them, with at least one delighted American!

The cattle are often helped to maintain the proper route by dogs, several Appenzellers included! The sight of these cattle, the brown kind, for which Switzerland is known, their shepherds, the Swiss bells worn around their necks, the cattle dogs and more filled me with even greater excitement to be in such a land, where beauty is so natural and history and tradition so prized and valued.

The men herding the cattle, in full Swiss attire for this very major event, chanted and yodeled as they guided their herds down the streets to the show grounds. In one herd, each cow wore a tall "hat" made of flowers, lovely and artistically detailed. Bulls, who are "as big as houses" were usually assigned a single handler. Their mooing was music to my ears, a symphony of sorts. The family owning each herd hung their huge, signature Swiss bell, with wide and colorful straps, and their shoulder baskets, intricately woven and painted with herding scenery, for all to see. Judges carefully examine the cows and watch them as they are moved by handlers and place floral arrangements on the heads of the winners in various categories.

Vendors sell fresh food, cheese, milk shakes, pastries, and gifts. It is a tradition that on this day only, boys as young as six years old can "enjoy a smoke" and they all did.

In the mid-afternoon, the crowd again lines the streets of the town to watch herd after herd return to their farms in a procession as grand as that of the morning, and once the shepherds have bedded their cattle, the men return to Appenzell for an evening of music and to receive their awards. As is typical of the Swiss, who pride themselves on cleanliness, Appenzell public works officials almost immediately hose the streets to wash away "deposits" left by the cattle.

Never have I seen such a spectacle and it will forever fill my mind's eye!

Lisa Allen, SE Mass.

Image courtesy of Switzerland Tourism | C. Sonderegger

Hiking in Appenzell-Day 4 | "Dressing the Part"

2011-10-07T10:23:00.000-07:00

This is a continuation of Ryder-Walker guest Lisa Allen's account of the Appenzell region of eastern Switzerland. Please also read: Hiking in Appenzell-Day 1 | "A Slice of Heaven", Hiking in Appenzell-Day 2 | "Until the Cows Come Home" and Hiking in Appenzell-Day 3 | "Until You Find Your Dream"

Let me describe what the men wear to the celebratory events. I shall try to "paint" an accurate picture for you.

Let us begin with the feet. Dark ankle high shoes have a buckle at the top, with a decorative Swiss design. White stockings reach to the knee and are held to the leg by short leather pieces which go around the leg, a thin belt of sorts, one might say with, of course, metal Swiss figurines on them. For "trousers," yellow three-quarter length "breeches" are worn. Or, for "formal" wear, such as the awards dinner for the cattle show, in the evening, the men wear brown trousers, instead of yellow breeches.

Around the waist is worn a very ornate silver chain type "belt" and a "kerchief," which is colorful and covered with Swiss symbolism, is tucked into the waist and a triangle section of the kerchief lies against the breeches.

White short sleeved shirts were worn and the handsome black leather suspenders decorated with herding, brass Swiss figurines, much like the typical Swiss belt or dog leash. Short red vests with embroidered flowers on them and other typical Swiss designs are worn and metal clasps fasten the sides of the vest, in front, to each other. Where a tie would hang is either a Swiss buckle or pin, not certain which of these two.

While the boys wear the Swiss caps with which we are familiar, the men wear regular black hats with floral "garlands" wrapped around them. All the men wear a dangling earring on one ear. I shall describe the lovely dresses worn by the women when my photographs are developed.

Lisa Allen SE Mass.

Image courtesy of Appenzell Tourismus

Hiking in Appenzell-Day 3 | "Until You Find Your Dream"

2011-10-07T10:06:00.000-07:00

We recently sent Ryder-Walker guest Lisa Allen to the Appenzell region of eastern Switzerland. She's been having a blast! Please also read Hiking in Appenzell-Day 1 | "A Slice of Heaven" and Hiking in Appenzell-Day 2 | "Until the Cows Come Home"

Until you have spent time in Appenzellerland, been enchanted and moved by its special melodies, stood beside shepherds, keen and sturdy, and watched Swiss Cattle Dogs doing the work for which they were bred, you may not, cannot, in your soul, understand the most elemental joy of Maria from "The Sound Of Music," as when, with arms raised to touch the hands of God, she frolics around the deep green hills of her native country. She has realized, like me that, in the simple, one can discover the sublime and the extraordinary. The Swiss must preserve, especially, those rituals perfomed under the canopy of Mother Nature.

Last night, I fell asleep with the melody in my mind of the hammer dulcimer being played by a young man in traditional grab in the establishment where I had the most delicious salad I have ever tasted, made with apple dressing covered greens and fruits and vegetables which, it seemed, had been picked and prepared just then from Swiss meadows, for me. Then, very early this morning, Tuesday, I proceeded to one end of town where people began to line the streets. I stood next to Mona Lisa, a lovely and fit Appenzeller Mountain Dog and, of course, a photo of Piber was shown to her owner in which Piber is pulling a goat cart. Piber is my Appenzell Cattle Dog.

People from around the country and the world began to wait for the show to begin. Soon, Swiss ceremonial bells heralded the arrival of the first herd of cattle, trotting proudly through town with shepherds dressed in native costume guiding their charges with staffs and halters to the large field where each cow would be tethered to fences for the day, with hay and water readily available. The cattle, herd after herd, passed under a large arch which had been built, decorated with garlands and Swiss bells.

Appenzell Cattle Dogs abounded to keep their herds properly on the road. In front of many herds were little children moving white goats along the road and, of course, the children take this job quite seriously and were dressed as young shepherds and shepherdesses, in an only very slightly modified manner compared to the adult version. Swiss and cantonal flags waved proudly, high on poles, and the light fog soon was but a memory, with the hills shining in all their glory!

to be continued...

Lisa Allen, from Appenzell, Switzerland

Introducing the Zanskar Chadar Trek

2011-10-06T13:12:00.000-07:00

World-renowned adventure photographer Ace Kvale has done a lot of cool things. He's dangled from helicopters in the Alps. He's skied first descents in Alaska. He's traveled to more than sixty countries and participated in twenty-five expeditions to Asia and the Himalaya. So, when Ace calls something the "Wildest Trek on Earth," it means something.

Enter the Zanskar Chadar Trek.

Zanskar is a kingdom in northern India. Originally part of Tibet, and hemmed in by some of the tallest mountain ranges in the world, the region is extremely remote, insanely rugged, and almost entirely isolated from the outside world. Barring the use of a helicopter, (and even that's dicey), just getting to the place is an extreme undertaking. The mountain passes are too high and snow-covered for efficient travel, and the rivers are too swift for safe, reliable navigation.

Since no roads lead to the inner reaches of Zanskar, the local inhabitants wait until mid winter for the Zanskar River to freeze over and provide a temporary footpath to the outside world. The route can be treacherous for anyone unfamiliar with the river, with weak ice, frigid water and certain injury waiting around every corner. Yet the locals know the way, having traveled this route for centuries, pulling their wares on sleds, trading butter, and communicating with with their neighbors in Ladakh and Tibet.

A Special Tour for 2012

Ryder-Walker's Zanskar Chadar Trek, is a 25 day itinerary that explores the Kingdom of Zanskar. Ace Kvale will lead the expedition, in addition to a team of local guides and porters. We'll spend half our time hiking along the frozen Zanskar River, and the other half enjoying the treasures of a culture hidden at the top of the world.

Since part of the trip follows the river, we’ll spend a portion of the tour winter camping beneath the stars, sleeping in caves, and experiencing the locals’ life as they do what they’ve done for hundreds of years. Camp “luxuries” include, hot meals cooked over the open fire, lots of hot water for bathing and drinks and the most delicious chai tea ever prepared over the open flame. Away from the river, we’ll rest in comfortable guesthouses and the nicest establishments of the region, including 5 star accommodations upon the finish our tour.

While the route can be tough, the rewards are great. If you’re willing to make the journey to the Kingdom of Zanskar, then you’ll behold a fantasyland of thousand year-old monasteries, exotic animals, and a friendly people seemingly plucked from another time.

Reasons To Go Now

The river doesn’t freeze as long as it used to. Changing weather patterns have severely shortened the time frame for making this journey. There is a good chance that, in the near future, the river won't freeze at all.

Development pressures are slowly pushing a road into the Zanskar river gorge, forever altering this centuries old route to the kingdom of Zanskar.

Opportunities like this don’t last forever. Borders move. Governments change. Things happen.

Things to Know

The dates for this tour are January 19-February 12, 2012.

Since this is a winter trek, hikers should be prepared for winter temperatures in the mid 30's F during the day, with lows of -20 F during cold snaps.

This is not a trek for people unfamiliar with cold weather camping and less than comfortable sleeping conditions.

In addition to high elevation, the time spent on the ice makes the itinerary quite strenuous, taxing muscle groups in ways that many trekkers used to firm and predictable footing may not be used to.

The conditions underfoot change hour to hour and day to day, and un anticipatable detours are often necessary meaning that we cannot predict precisely where we will spend each night or in what kind of accommodations.

Note: We will only offer this trip in 2012. Please visit our website, then contact us for more details.

Click here for images of this trip.
Click here for a video of a previous Zanskar Chadar Trek.

“It’s not the places we go, it’s the people we meet when we get there. My focus now is on giving back to cultures I’ve come to love.”

-Ace Kvale

Hiking in Appenzell-Day 2 | "Until the Cows Come Home"

2011-10-06T11:30:00.000-07:00

For more of the story, please read Hiking in Appenzell-Day 1 | "A slice of Heaven".

Never in my life have I made as thrilling a journey as this! I have taken cable cars up mountains where traditional Swiss farms dot the hillsides as do intimate places of worship. I began to plan my trip to Appenzellerland a year ago and it is greater than all my dreams! Stores in Appenzell sell the lovliest Swiss items and one can watch native craftsmen painting and doing leatherwork. I just watched a horse pull a wagon through Appenzell and two days ago, I saw an Appenzeller Mountain Dog and traditionally dressed herdsmen and boys moving cattle down a country road. I have listened to bands from all over Switzerland playing music for a competition in the town and they are mostly dressed in native attire. Tuesday, I shall enjoy the town's annual cattle show. I feel as though my entire life has been leading to this week and shall remember every detail, forever! I have taken hundreds of photos. In Appenzellerland, perhaps more than anywhere on Earth, one finds peace and spiritual healing! Oh, my! Too, the buildings are magnificent, with detailed drawings of Swiss shields, flowers, and herding scenes!

Lisa Allen, from hotel where I am staying in Appenzell.