I've got mates with dog boxes and while they're a logical next step, they aren't super friendly in some settings.

I've been looking into DCT boxes. There is a company in Norway that do the conversions parts for plenty of JDM engines and I'm keen to hear thoughts on it. It would be a pretty cool thing behind my FJ20 bluebird and price for all the parts including 7 speed BMW box is comparable to a 5 speed dog box.

Has anyone done it and if so.. is it worth it?

CYL 1 160

Cyl 2 160

Cyl 3 162

Cyl 4 100

Cyl 5 145

Cyl 6 150

This was a cold compression test because the car isn’t able to run at the moment  (no turbos on it) The shop that done the tests also quoted me 1.5k to strip down and tell me what they find. I told them wouldn’t it be more reliable to do a leak down test? After speaking a close friend he said he doesn’t understand why Cyl 4 would be so different to the others.

I also spoke to another jdm expert shop that builds rbs and they said theirs no point putting OEM parts again because they are 25-30 years old and that I’m better off forging the engine. They said 12-14k solid forged long motor + removal , re fit, fluids , gaskets, parts , tuning will be extra.

wanting to do a leak down test before i pay the mechanic to do a strip down, is that worth it? or better off doing the leak test to find the issue?

cheers 

I have a brand new set of Work Meister S1 3P in matte black centre with gloss black lip and chrome rivets for sale for 4k.

Only opened and test fitted on car.

Specs for these are as followed:

Front
19" x 10" T disk to suit massive brake rotors and calipers
P.C.D 5 x 114.3mm
Offset +24

Rear
19" x 10" A disk
P.C.D 5 x 114.3mm
Offset +10

Main reason for selling is they just stick out a bit too much for the rears of my R32 GTR, but should suit a R33 or R34 GT-R perfectly.

There is currently a 6 month wait on these, and cost me $4400

Located in SA but happy to post at buyers expense.

to note the car has the following mods 880cc injectors, echuast, apexi fc commander, oem fuel pump. 

should i do any other mods because the turbos are out?

also what ecu do people recommend (in future im wanting to go single turbo set up)

thanks all!

Cicio Spec 4.1 Race Crate Engine (Formerly Top Speed Motorsport)

NIS5902 Cicio Performance 4.1 Race Crate Engine -1700WHP Rated

-Cici Spec Machine Work

-Cicio Spec Billet Crank

-ARP L19 Mainstuds

-Cicio Spec Oiling Mods

-Cicio Spec CP Billet Pistons

-Cicio Spec Carrillo Rods

-Overbalanced Rotating Assembly

-Wet Sump Oiling Upgrade

-Cicio L3 CNC Ported Head Package, Including Valvetrain & S2 Cams

-Cicio Precision Assembly with ARP 625+ Head Studs & Cicio Spec Head Gaskets

-GT1R Harmonic Balancer

-GT1R Billet Oil Pan

-Includes All Required Cores and OEM Hardware

-HKS Iridium Spark Plugs

-Cicio Air Pump Delete Block Off Plates

-Includes all timing components

-New OEM Oil Pump

-Large Volume Oil Filter Upgrade

-Includes Timing Cover and Valve Covers

-Optional Powder Coating in Your Choice of Colour

I will not be doing a build for at least another year so may sell..... Great spec brand new engine ready to go, Cheap considering you can sell your own engine.

Asking $13500

BEFORE I START PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE THEM

For a few months now I have been thinking about changing the controls on my old Triptronic steering wheel to audio controls and this weekend I actually sat down and did it. I must say that it was quite the bitch, and I went through many different designs before I had the final version, and this final version, in my opinion, is the best way of doing it. 
This guide isn't a step-by-step walkthrough unfortunately because I have already installed the system into the car, I am writing this in retrospection so other people can also do this on their cars, as I have seen it asked about many times.

First I'm going to cover other designs that I have seen which are either stupid, needlessly complex or just wont work as expected
FAILED DESIGNS

• Using a 4-way transmitter and reciever (As seen in THIS video) (Would work but needlessly complex and many POF)
• Wiring resistors inline and running wire from steering wheel back to head unit (A steering wheel rotates //2short)
• Using a pre-existing PCB and wiring it in on the "dash-side" of the steering column (Ribbon cable in wheel boss wouldn't support enough inputs)

OK, Now that that is out of the way. We get onto the good stuff. Below is 3 things. REFER TO THESE INCASE OF UNSURE OR COMMENT
1. A video of the finished product AND a talkthrough of how it is all wired (I rambled a bit)
2. A rough wiring diagram for reference
3. The notes of which wires are connected to what and the pin layout of the PCB. ALL WIRES MAY NOT BE 100% REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR CAR (ie. Different Colour or Pin) SO PLEASE CHECK WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER FIRST

WHAT YOU NEED

• Steering Wheel Control Harness (Most often comes with your stereo as a 3.5mm jack)
• Universal Wired Steering Wheel Controller (What I used) (I MIGHT SELL PEOPLE JUST PCB's WITH THE WIRES PRE SOLDERED ECT IF YOU WANT ONE PM ME)
• Soldering gear and experience
• Plenty of wire
• OPTIONAL: Desolderer (Expensive and doesnt need to be used but makes light work of desoldering PCB)

HOW YOU DO IT 
ALL WIRE COLOURS THAT ARE UNDERLINED ARE THE STOCK WIRES, ALL IN ITALICS ARE THE WIRES I ADDED

PLEASE TEST THE CONTROLLER AND 3.5MM JACK IN YOUR HEADUNIT BEFORE INSTALLING

ALL COLOURS AND PINS MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR CAR SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CHECK BEFORE YOUR CUT ANYTHING

1. Prepare the PCB 
   1. Take apart your Universal SWC and remove the PCB. It should have a number of tactile switches on it and a power cable
   2. Test and notate which pins are Ground and which pins the actuation pin is. (This can be done with a continuity tester)
      In my case the whole board shared a common ground between all switches
   3. Desolder all of the tactile switches
   4. Solder new wires to the actuation pin for each switch
   5. Solder a wire to the common ground for the board. You should now have 5 wires soldered to your board (4 actuation + 1 ground), as well as the 2 original power cables
      
      IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL FOR THIS I MIGHT SELL A PRE-SOLDERED PCB FOR THOSE WHO WANT ONE (PM ME IF INTERESTED)
2. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!  
3. Remove the Airbag
   1. Remove your key surround, upper column cover and lower column cover to gain access to the steering column (5 Phillips head screws in Lower cover)
   2. On either side of the steering wheel there is a plastic cover which covers a Torx Head Screw holding in the airbag. Remove both covers and screws
   3. Disconnect both plugs on either side of the steering wheel behind the previously removed covers. The airbag should be able to be pulled out now
4. Prepare the Switches
   1. With the airbag removed you should be able to see the wires for the switch relay. Find where the two switches combine into a single output in the centre of the steering wheel and cut just before here, so that the switch wires are seperated.
   2. Solder the "COMMON GROUND" from your PCB to the YELLOW wires from each switch.
   3. Solder the "UP" from your PCB to the GREEN wire (One Side Only)
   4. Solder the "Down" from your PCB to the BLUE wire (Same Side)
   5. On the other side, "Next" -> Green  //  "Back" -> Blue
      
5. Connect PCB to Loom
   1. On the passenger side of the steering wheel there is a plug, make sure it is disconnected.
   2. On the upper plug, follow the wires back to the cut you made earlier. Clean up and hijack the BLUE and YELLOW wires. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the output of the PCB to the BLUE wire, and the GROUND wire to the YELLOW wire
      
6. Tap Wheel Harness
   1. On the back side of the of steering wheel boss there is a cable with a yellow plug (the wire itself is also probably covered in yellow tape) which runs back into the dash. Locate this plug and strip back whatever is covering 
   2. Cut the 2 GREEN wires on the PASSENGER SIDE of the plug (Make sure to leave enough wire to solder to)
   3. Solder a POSITIVE wire to the INNER wire that you cut (INNER to the centre of the plug) (Make sure its long enough to run to the back of the stereo)
   4. Solder a NEGATIVE wire to the OUTER wire that you cut (OUTER to the centre of the plug)
      
7. Connect Harness to Audio Jack
   1. Make sure you have enough wire to reach the back of your stereo
   2. Solder the POSITIVE wire to the "INPUT1" wire on the SWC audio jack
   3. Solder the NEGATIVE wire to the "GROUND" wire on the SWC audio jack
   4. Plug controller jack into 
8. Reconnect battery and test if working
9. If working
   1. DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!
   2. Cable manage and protect your PCB with whatever you can (I used heatshrink)
   3. Reassemble airbag (remember to reconnect plugs and TORX screws)
   4. Reassemble steering column
10. If not working
    1. Check your wiring against mine in the diagrams and the handwritten sheet (The handwritten sheet is the notes I took on the day so they are 100% correct for my install)
    2. Use a continuity tester and check wiring if able
    3. Write a comment and hopefully I will be able to help
11. ENJOY THE AUDIO CONTROLS

Conclusion
If you need help with anything dont be afraid to comment and I'll help out the best I can. I have seen tons of people asking about how to do this for a number of years now but I believe this is the first tutorial. I posted a couple videos to facebook of it and there seems to be alot of people who are interested, however, I believe that people think its a lot less time-consuming of a job than it actually is.

New to the world of GTR's thanks to the purchase of my 07 R35 from Hong Kong which is now on the road.

Been a long time 2jz fan with my supra, Aristo and of course who can forget the boat that is a Toyota Soarer but loved my old 1jz but always had a soft spot for the Skylines especially the famed GTR.

If anyone else is in the Western Suburbs of Vic hit me up one weekend and I'll meet up for some "chap laps" (showing my age but always 16 at heart).

Does anyone know what these messages say? Your assistance from experience would be greatly appreciated.

After any suggestions or advice on how to proceed here, whether it be off the shelf parts or custom.

Been looking at different exhaust options. Definitely don't want one of those off the shelf cat back systems as still be using stock turbo outlet and down pipe.

In addition to that, the bell mouth dump pipes concern me in regard to the internal welding and wastegate valve/flap fouling on each other. 

I read a thread in here somewhere the other night about that occurring.

So moving forward I plan to go the tomei expreme turbo outlet pipe which has the 76.3mm / 3inch outlet.

However i'm finding it hard to locate a down pipe that goes to the cat which is the same diameter all the way through.

The down pipes I found seem to all be 60mm/2.3inch (stock size) from the turbo outlet and step up to the bigger diameter at the cat end even quoting 80mm.  ie. jjr, blitz,apexi.

I just want to match everything to the same diameter.

Beyond that from the cat to the muffler is pretty easy to get sorted at an exhaust shop.

I plan to finish of with a magnaflow 3inch inlet, dual 3inch outlet and maintain stockish look.

Cheers,

Pete

https://youtube.com/shorts/d7qf1V1bWgI?feature=share

i would like some advice from all and possibly what i can do, will try to add as much as detail in for everyone !

I have recently purchased a r32 gts4 skyline with a rb26 in it. so the previous owner had it for 6 years and always serviced ect it every 5000kms, the engine now has 180 xxx kms on it. back to the question, he had issues with the twins so he removed them and bought a single turbo garret ec-1 a/r7 - xjm 62406 and a manifold and wastegate to suit. he then lost interest and the car sat for 6 months. i have purchased the car like this and went to 2 tuning shops these are my options 

1) tune shop 1- chuck n5s 2860s turbos, aftermarket manifold, dump pipe + tune 

2) tune shop 2-   bring the car in (with the twins again) and they will have a look at it because it might be the load limit and the turbos might be fine. they also said i might have to look into a rebuild as its at 180 000kms. 

3) ????

thanks everyone for reading this! i hope all is having a lovely day / night 

Our once-mint-condition PNM35 is now a neglected, dented shadow of its former glory. It's done us well but times have moved on, and the family hauler is now a Q7. The Stagea is now referred to as Farmtruck. No, sadly I haven't put a big block in it and trolled supercars at drag strips (if you know, you know).

It's currently sitting outside with 6 bales of hay in the back, because I tore my calf muscle wide open trying to get the 7th in there a couple of Saturdays ago and I'm on crutches so can't unload it. Did you know you can get 8 bales of hay in an M35? Well, now you do.

Farmtruck spends the majority of its life as a paddock support vehicle, for things like fencing, drainage, and towing a trailer for tree pruning. My property is almost entirely flat, so there's nothing too challenging most of the time, except one small uphill that gets muddy enough over Winter that I nearly bogged the tractor trying to get up it a few weeks ago.

AND SO I APPROACH MY ACTUAL STUPID, LUDICROUS, DON'T-BE-A-DICK, JEEZ-HERTZ-YOU'RE-A-MUPPET POINT...

Has anyone tried lifting an M35 by any great amount, and fitted more offroad-appropriate wheels and tyres, even A/Ts? The car's almost guaranteed to fail the WOF/roadworthy that was due a couple of weeks ago due to at least one near-bald tyre, so now is the time to consider if there's something that'll handle the slippery stuff a bit better. I guess ARX springs would lift a little bit but I suspect I'd run out of wheel arch pretty quickly so tyre circumference would have to be about the same. The AWD seems to do ok but I'll be keeping it away from the worst of the mud. I haven't had to resort to snow mode yet, that could be interesting.

I know, "just buy a ute, you moron", but honestly, if Farmtruck had ~200mm clearance and could tow about 2,500kg we'd run it forever, it's been a near-faultless hero for us for over 9 years now, fits a butt load in it, and we won't cry if we scratch it (more). Also, we already own Farmtruck, and utes are stupid money nowadays, while our budget is...not so stupid. The end result doesn't have to look pretty, it just has to work on and off road. I might even cut the back off down the line and turn it into a "proper" ute if this works out well.

You may now scoff.

I have an r32 gtst skyline that has some basic supporting mods to make around 300kw

Can any one tell me if the 07 is colder

I was wondering what would be the most recommended methods used to properly align the location of the hole needed when modifying an RB26 timing cover to make clearance for the RB25 VCT cam gear?

It's a clear polycarbonate one from Nitto I bought naively years back as a cheap alternative to a factory 26 cover when I originally was planning to delete VCT for dual adjustable cam gears instead, but since then I've decided to retain it after doing my homework and realising how significant it's benefits are.

Since the material is delicate & I want to limit as much offset as possible for the hole to be clean and centered, I'm planning to consult my local plastic supplier that offer CNC milling of custom designs.

I appreciate any advice.

Cheers.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/air-regulator-rb25-r32-r33-wc34-c33-c34-c35-a31

you will also need a new connector plug see link below please note you have to make sure it fits there are different kinds that look the same it has to be the blue one

https://www.efihardware.com/products/2156/Nissan-2-Pin-IAC-Front-Connector-Blue

the r31 air regulator uses a butterfly type setup which is not working any more because of age the r33 air regulator uses a slide type setup which is very efficient and a better design

this conversion is very straight forward it fits exactly the same as the factory one fits and you only need to modify the pin clips on your wiring very easy to do i cannot tell you the difference the r33 air regulator has made it runs perfectly now no more back firing sputtering having to rev it to 2 thousand so it runs this will solve your cold start problems

Thanks🤗🤗

Cheers 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Thinking I’m gonna have to downsize radiator size. What sizes do you guys have that fit with the shroud? 

Also got any recommendations and prices?

I wanna make sure it’s gonna fit before I spend the money.

Thanks

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/764168291571434/

thanks everyone!!

so I recently acquired an R33 from a wrecking yard for 1k originally me and my friend were just going to get the engine and a Toyota celiac and do a long excruciating build to put the two together as a rwd custom build but we thought better of that.

I haven’t worked much on imports but have done a lot on fords and Holdens. Needless to say I have no idea what I have on my hands. Build plate shows and R33 1995 skyline coupe with and RB20e but I so far haven’t seen many others with this engine when doing research. This thing is getting a complete rebuild with a new motor at some point but just wanted to know if anyone had any sort of knowledge on it before I start. 
 

Anybody considered this ? 

The aftermarket route is expensive (like 25K) so the front cut would have to be cheaper (15K?). Who would undertake this in QLD... East Coast Customs ?

Pete

I've read some posts and seems alot of people are getting higher temps when going aftermarket and even higher when using the AC too. 

As the title suggests I'm building a r33 gtst with a rb25det.

Any tips or information is appreciated thank you!

As far as I can see online the alternator and water pump should fit, not sure about power steering though. Google won't tell me the sizes of the pulleys either so I'm unsure.

1• 2.8L> Stock RD stroke with Rb25/26 sized lobes. With the bored up 85mm cylinder to 86mm u can run Rb 26 pistons. But then what length rods? 

2• 2.?L same as above but with offset ground crank making it a longer stroke. I guess how much it’s offset sets the legth of the rods. Again what length rods and what offset. And what will the final volume be?

But in all, with a bored up block to 86mm and re ground crank. Is there a off the shelf forged pistons and rods combo? Simplest way is to go stock 2.8stroke and just get longer rods. 

I can just throw the engines in the bin if my Swedish ass would even attempt to do these calculations 😂 but iam happy if anyone would try to explain how to calculate it if there is no straight answer.
 

1993 gtst 5m r33 skyline

Apparently tuned. But how?

Firstly, I have a v35 sedan 300gt limited with a vq30dd motor.

The car runs super rich, suffers a misfire and struggles to start when hot, as well as going into limp mode.

I have changed plugs, coils, maf, cam and crank sensors, replaced pcv and all vac lines, used upper cylinder head cleaner (I know the design get dirty as hell), scrubbed all carbon deposits and resealed all gaskets, i have a spare ecu. 

All this and I still can't get it to run nicely.

Was wondering if anyone else has some ideas for me to get it to run and if not, wondering what the compatibility of the vq30dd loom is to a 35de? Kinda sick of trying to find parts for this obscure motor and worst case I'd potentially swap a 35de into it but I'm unsure how compatible the looms are and wether that is a massive job in of itself?

Any and all help would be appreciated, cheers.