Saffron and Rosewater

Hike to a Zaroastrian Fire Temple

2014-01-29T23:38:00.000-06:00

One of my favourite places in (or near) Isfahan was Âtašgâh, an ancient Zoroastrian fire temple on a hill which dates to before the 6th century.

The path before us.

We opted against a ride to the top on this guy even though he was so charming.

Almost up the steep slope!

Made it!

Standing in the pit of the sacred fire. Fire was revered by the Zoroastrians and still figures in present-day Iranian rituals, such as during Chahar Shanbeh Soori (the last Wednesday night of the Persian calendar), when people jump over bonfires.

The view from the top!

From Starbucks to Domino's Pizza...

2012-04-26T16:36:00.000-05:00

Pizza is also becoming popular in Iran, luckily for me since pizza was one of the few vegetarian options when eating out. Who knew Domino's delivered in Iran?!

Iranians do pizza a little differently than North Americans...

Ketchup and mayonnaise on your pizza is a must!

Toppings include shrimp, turkey and tongue:

Pizza party with the inlaws:

Iranian Starbucks!

2012-04-14T18:57:00.000-05:00

Ok, not real Starbucks (but as usual Iranians don't mind pilfering the logo!). Coffee shops are becoming popular meeting places for the young and hip. The Christian area of Julfa has many coffee shops since the Armenian population is partial to coffee (unlike most Iranians, who prefer tea). We stopped in to a coffee shop in this area and had delightful cappuccinos. The cost was equivalent to an American Starbucks--about $5 per cup. That would be like an American paying $15 a cup!

Even though I'm not a big coffee drinker, after many days of Iranian-style tea, I was craving a little variety. Iranian coffee didn't disappoint! My sister-in-law enjoying her cappuccino:

The giant coffee pot in the middle of the store (which otherwise looked like a hip, modern Western cafe):

Catholics in Isfahan (or Lack Thereof)

2012-04-08T21:33:00.000-05:00

At one point there was a decent-sized Catholic community in Isfahan, but I could not find any functioning Catholic churches while I was there (though any information about Christians in general was very hard to come by). In the Armenian Christian neighbourhood of Julfa there is a Catholic Street:

Lo and behold, there was a Catholic church at the end of the street. Above you can make out the dome.

The entrance (note the male and female door knockers).

Apparently, the church was renovated in 1927. My husband found the caretaker and was able to get us inside:

The caretaker told us that they are waiting on the Vatican to send an expert to approve and begin a new renovation.

My Christmas in Isfahan

2011-08-21T12:20:00.001-05:00

It was difficult being away from my family at Christmas (my first ever away from them!). However, we took along some Christmas cheer in our suitcases.

We made sure our stockings were hung...

and lo and behold, Santa seemed to make it all the way to Isfahan!

Too bad Christmas is a work day for some...

Luckily there's time to party later on.

Though there's no place like home for the holidays, my new Iranian family made pretty good Christmas companions, especially for first-timers!

Christmas in Iran

2011-07-25T22:15:00.002-05:00

In honour of Christmas in July, here is a post about Christmastime in Isfahan.

In New Julfa, the Armenian Christian neighbourhood of Isfahan, there were signs of Christmas around. Shop windows were decorated for the season:

Even the locals were getting into the Christmas spirit:

Above is a tree set up in a luxury mall in Julfa (note the Dolce and Gabbana store!).

At the Vank (Armenian Orthodox) Cathedral the visitors were excited to take photos with the Christmas decor:

Even my inlaws were eager to take their photos with the Christmas decor!
And several shops were selling Christmas gear:

We even bought some Christmas balls at this shop to add to the small tree we had brought from home.

Inside the Blue Mosque

2011-06-05T15:18:00.000-05:00

The famous Imam Mosque (Masjed-e Imam) or Shah Mosque (Masjed-e Shah) sits at one end of the expansive Imam Square, the large public square in Isfahan. It is covered in hundreds of thousands of hand-painted blue tiles.

I thought it was the most beautiful mosque I saw on my trip (and not just because my favourite colour is blue!).

The original entry door is massive!

Here's my sister-in-law trying to reach the handle.

Inside the mosque are several sections of outdoor courtyards and indoor areas.

It is still used for Friday prayers. These are the carpets that are spread out on Fridays.

This is a perch for leading prayers from.

A beautiful place for spiritual enlightenment!

The Blue Mosque of Isfahan

2011-04-09T18:38:00.001-05:00

At the head of Imam Square in Isfahan is the beautiful blue mosque. It's not the only blue mosque, but it's the largest and most famous one. It is huge both inside and out (about 140 000 square feet!). It was built in the 1600's by Shah Abbas, hence the original name of the Shah Mosque (Masjed-e Shah ). After the revolution it has become known as Imam Mosque (Masjed-e Imam).

And that's all just the outside of the mosque!! I'll feature the inside on another post.

The Early Bird Catches the Bread

2011-04-01T18:12:00.000-05:00

Travelling halfway around the world can give you some pretty intense jet lag. Actually, the jet lag I experience wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Mostly, I was just waking up super early (4 AM, then 5 AM). However, an afternoon nap every day was an absolute necessity. I tried taking melatonin for jet lag, but I really didn't notice any improvement.

Being up early allowed me to enjoy some truly Iranian experiences, such as hearing the beautiful pre-sunrise call to prayer .

Another way to spend an early morning in Iran is to head to the local bakery to pick up some fresh bread.

Every neighbourhood has a few bakeries like this. They are only open at certain times throughout the day (generally before mealtimes). They are very efficient operations.

Bread is called nun (nan/naan) in Farsi. It is the original naan that you may have heard of in Indian cuisine. The Persians introduced it to India! There are several different types of Iranian bread (more pics to come!) This one is the most basic and readily available type.

Outside each bakery is a rack like this where the fresh hot breads are laid out to cool off a bit before being sent home with you. During busy times the customers themselves will come here and spread out their breads for a few minutes before taking them home. Bags are not usually provided, so many people just carry the bread in their hands or bring their own bags.

Breakfast was always tea and a yummy spread of feta, butter, jams and honey to top the fresh bread with. Deelish!

Ashura in the City

2011-03-27T22:31:00.000-05:00

During the holy days of Moharram there's a lot of activity at night on the streets.

One tradition is for people to make a pilgrimage to light candles at various makeshift stations around the city near mosques.

The candles are just stuck on nooks in nearby walls.

It didn't seem that safe to me...

Some people aim to light candles at 40 different stations around the city. When lighting a candle you're supposed to make a wish. If your wish comes true, the person will often pledge to make food to distribute to others during the month of Moharram next year, like this lady serving sholo zard:

The food is meant for anyone. It's not aimed specifically for the less fortunate or anything. In fact, eating this donated food is thought to be especially holy. One person I met had his dinner every night at stations like this during the holy month. A good way to save money!!

Some people set up elaborate stations and staff them with their entire families. This one is serving tea:

I ended up going into a religious building that was all women.

It was overwhelming to be surrounded by so many chadoris in one room!

These women were tying strings around a holy shrine to make wishes.

After I had taken a few photos, we heard an announcement over the loudspeaker which even with my limited farsi I understood to be prohibiting photos. In my defense, I wasn't the only one. Many younger women were taking cell phone photos as well!

Ladies Who Lunch

2011-02-16T19:57:00.000-06:00

I was a little bit nervous about lunch in Andon, first because it was gender-segregated and I would be separated from Ahmad, but second because I didn't want to get sick! Luckily, I had a lovely time and so did my stomach!

All of the women headed next door to the neighbour's house, while the men stayed in the original house we were visiting. A long plastic table cloth (soffreh) was layed out and set with the obligatory fresh herbs (sabzeh).

It was a bit chilly but it was nice to eat al fresco.

The ladies were served gormeh sabzeh (which can be made vegetarian/vegan, but usually contains meat). It's an Iranian stew served over rice. With so many guests to serve, the rice is cooked in a huge pot that's brought right to the dining area:

(Notice that shoes are removed before you sit on the carpet to eat.)

Our hostess found out that I was vegetarian and went to the trouble of making me a separate dish, kookoo sabzi, (centre, below) which is one of my favourites (actually is there any vegetarian Iranian food that's not my favourite??). It's a delicious spinach and herb-filled kind of frittata, but it's lighter than the traditional frittata or omelet.

My drink here is a freshly-mixed mint and yogurt drink called dough (pronounced doog). Previously, I had only seen bottled dough in Iranian grocery stores but I didn't care for it as it's very sour. This drink was fresh and light, a perfect accompaniment to a sunny outdoor lunch.

Where's Waldo in the Village of Andon?

2011-02-11T23:50:00.000-06:00

This was my outfit for the trip:

The women are more conservative and religious in the villages, in general, so of course I stuck out like a sore thumb amidst all the black chadors (the black sheet, essentially, that the women wrap around themselves). It wasn't really a problem, as I was still dressed acceptably in my long manteau (trench coat) and hijab. Luckily, my sister-in-law gave me a more subdued hijab, as I had only brought brightly coloured ones, which would be inappropriate to wear outside during the holy days of Moharrem.

Even the young girls were wearing hijabs, even though it's only required at age 9:

This girl has a winnie the pooh hijab!

Here's me with some young teens in the village:

Spot the foreigner!

A lot of the women still wore the black chadors inside the house too:

The woman second from the left, who was our hostess, is wearing a house chador which is made of lighter fabric. Often when women visit another home the hostess will offer one of these house chadors to wear instead of the heavier black chador.

I even tried one on for fun:

After a little while visiting, the women wanted me to go in another room with them where they were more relaxed.

They brought out cheetos (regular and crunchy), which they called by name....

(The father operates a convenience store out of part of his house).

Then they showed me wedding photos and videos of a couple of recent family weddings, which seems to be a common occurrence in these women-only groups. In the photos the women are unrecognizable because of all the heavy makeup. They wear Western style dresses with lots of skin showing in the female-only section of the party.

The women were very friendly and eager to try to communicate even though some couldn't speak any English.

As we were leaving, our hostess asked me if in America they say "Death to Iran" like they say "Death to America" in Iran. That was pretty funny!

Muharram...It Ain't Christmas

2011-02-11T22:45:00.000-06:00

We arrived just after the start of the holy month of Moharram (also spelled Muharram). Moharram is the month that begins the Islamic new year, but it's not a celebratory month. Rather, the tone is more like Lent in the Christian tradition. During the month, the martyrdom of Mohammed's grandson, Imam Hussein, is commemorated, particularly on Ashura, the 10th day of the month. (The Islamic calendar is lunar, so the date changes every year for our calendar as well as the Iranian calendar).

Anyway, the mood is very subdued during this month. Most women don't wear bright colours or even makeup. It was quite a contrast to the American and Italian Christmas cheer we had just come from. Ironically, the colours of Moharram are red and green. So these colours were displayed prominently, though with a completely different meaning!

Our first full day in Iran was Tasua, the day before Ashura, also a holy day. Every neighbourhood has some sort of events, at minimum a parade of local men and boys flagellating themselves with zanjir, chains with handles attached. This was the local parade:

The men wear black and hit their chests while singing.

Some play music while others hit themselves with the zanjir. The chains are heavy, but most men were letting the chains glide over their backs, so it didn't seem to be painful.

The young ones were into it too.

At the local parade word spread quickly that "a foreigner" was watching. They seemed excited that I would be watching their parade.

Next, we headed to a nearby village where they observe the day full force. I even got to try out the zanjir at Ahmad's relatives' house:

I don't think you're supposed to be smiling during this, but hey, I'm new here!

In the village more elaborate parade groups came by.

These look pretty heavy!

This guy's a professional!

And there was more self-flagellation...

You can see the guy on the right has a tea pot to offer the men tea. The neighbours also offer sweets and dates to the marchers.

The village had erected a tent for the groups doing passion plays that come by throughout the day from different neighbourhoods.

We saw several passion plays commemorating different parts of the Battle of Karbala and the death of Imam Hussein.

The green guys are good and the red ones are the bad guys.

Some plays even included horses, which made the front row a little iffy when the horses started acting up!

And Now For Something Completely Different...IRAN!

2011-02-06T22:27:00.000-06:00

We arrived in Isfahan at around 4 AM, which is pretty common for international arrivals. Just before we disembarked the plane, all the women whipped on their hijabs (minus a couple who wore them the whole flight), as is required by the government of Iran.

Customs was very smooth. After that we picked up our bags and headed to the exit where our luggage was scanned to ensure we didn't have any alcohol or other contraband items inside. (I was scared that they would deem my Entertainment Weekly magazines inappropriate, but they didn't physically search anything.)

Next we procured a private taxi to take us to Isfahan (about 4 hours away). The taxi driver looked about 15 and sported a jacket with a large D & G (Dolce and Gabbana) on the back. He was also glued to his cell phone a lot of the time!

Some scenes on the road from Tehran to Isfahan:

It looks just like New Mexico, but it reminded me more of the images I've seen of Afghanistan, which was a bit eery...

No billboards? No worries...just write your ad on the mountain:

Ingenious marketing!

Christmas in Roma

2011-02-06T21:41:00.003-06:00

It was Christmastime in Rome, but there was no snow and plenty of sunshine:

The Christmas lights and decorations were strung up in the Roman streets:

Even the Nutella was decked out for the season:

This was taken a the Christmas market in Piazza Navona, where we browsed through the stalls full of ornaments, figurines and toys.

This is the witch, Befana, who brings Italian children presents on Epiphany. I considered buying one, but wasn't so sure I wanted a witch hanging on my Christmas tree!

And finally, some pictures of the Vatican at Christmas.

I hope YOU had a

Our Mini Roman Holiday

2011-02-06T21:25:00.001-06:00

We made it to the Trevi Fountain...

And managed to thow in a few coins to ensure our return to Rome:

Here's hoping our next visit is longer than 12 hours!

Outside the Pantheon...

...and inside the Pantheon...

We saw some of Rome's many beautiful fountain sculptures...

The birds like this one!

At Piazza Navona

A quick taxi ride and we are in Vatican City!

This photo of us was taken by a lovely Swiss man who was preparing for his ordination at St. Peter's on Christmas day.

Enjoying the sunset on our walk back from the Vatican to catch the airport shuttle bus. Even though I had an exhilarating day in Rome, I'm definitely tired here!

A Journey of 6695.8 Miles...

2011-01-29T18:44:00.000-06:00

A journey of a thousand miles may start beneath your feet, but a journey of 6695.8 miles starts at the airport!

This is me at Chicago's O'Hare airport waiting in line to check in. We brought our full allowance of 4 checked bags and two carry-ons. Most of our luggage is filled with presents!

After a long overnight flight and an amazing view of sunrise over the Alps:

...we ended up here for 12 hours:

I won't go into the reason why I had to buy that Italia shirt except to say that a long flight, a cappuccino and a vanride on an Italian expressway during rush hour were not a good combination for me.

Since Ahmad hadn't been to Rome before, we somehow managed to pack in a full day of sightseeing during our short time in Rome.

Welcome to my travel blog!

2010-11-24T00:41:00.000-06:00

This blog is meant to document my upcoming trip to Iran. This trip has been nine years in the making, from the time I first met my (now) husband. The documents finally came through, our tickets are bought and we are (almost) packed. Thanks for joining me on my journey!