Last year, during my first trip to Bolivia, I visited Sajama National Park, where I wanted to photograph the impressive Sajama, Pomerape and Parinacota volcanoes, which rise to over 6,000 metres. The weather didn’t quite cooperate back then, so I made a second attempt on my way home from my last trip to Bolivia. And this time, it was going to be perfect!

At 6.542 metres, Volcán Sajama is Bolivia’s highest mountain and an extinct volcano of impressive stature. It lies in the remote west of the country, near the border with Chile, nestled within Sajama National Park. Sajama has a perfectly conical shape and is visible from a great distance from both Chile and Bolivia – a picture-perfect volcano! The volcano is part of the Andean volcanic region, which is characterised by subduction processes along the Nazca and South American plates. The mountain consists mainly of volcanic rock, shaped over millennia by eruptions.

Opposite Sajama lie two further picture-perfect volcanoes, Pomerape and Parinacota, which share the border between Chile and Bolivia. Together they form the Nevados de Payachatas massif and are referred to as twin volcanoes due to their perfect alignment. At a towering 6.348 metres, Volcán Parinacota is the larger of the two, while its slightly smaller twin, Volcán Pomerape, stands at 6.282 metres. Parinacota and Pomerape are classic stratovolcanoes, formed by alternating layers of lava and volcanic ash. Geologically speaking, the Parinacota volcano is relatively young. Its last major eruption took place around 8.000 years ago and led to a massive landslide that created Lake Chungara. Eruptions in earlier times have created several lagoons, such as Laguna Isla in Bolivia, in which all three volcanoes are beautifully reflected on windless calm days.

And that’s exactly the luck I had on my last morning in Bolivia, when I drove to Laguna Isla while it was still dark and I was thrilled to see how perfectly all three volcanoes were reflected in the still water. On that chilly morning, there was even a thin layer of ice on the lake. As the sun rose, it eventually bathed the clouds and the volcanoes in golden light, and my little dream was complete!

While my previous blog post focused on hummingbirds in Colombia, today I would like to introduce you to another impressive family of birds: the toucans. These birds inhabit slightly lower elevations within Colombia’s subtropical rainforests; for my toucan-spotting base, I chose the Muendo Nuevo Eco Lodge in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta near Minca. Together with my birding guide, Sam, I set out in search of these impressive birds – and Sam did just as excellent a job as Breiner had at the Mountain House. He, too, utilized the Merlin app and a Bluetooth speaker to call in the birds, and it worked like a charm!

The first toucan we had the privilege of observing and photographing was the magnificent Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus), a beautiful, colorful, and relatively small toucan that, much like so many other birds in Colombia, looked as if it had fallen into a paint pot. Simply stunning! The Collared Aracari is an attractive small toucan native to the tropical lowland forests and forest edges of Central America and northern Colombia. They are typically found in small groups moving through the canopies of fruit-bearing trees, or flying singly across clearings and between trees. Particularly striking features include its bright yellow body with red and black markings, as well as the serrated pattern on its large beak – a beak that appears to be half the size of the bird itself!

The second toucan species turned out to be my absolute highlight – and, in my opinion, the most beautiful and largest of all toucans, thanks to its rainbow-colored beak: the Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus), also known as the Rainbow Toucan. Here, once again, the name speaks for itself! This truly iconic bird is distinguished by its brilliantly colored beak which shimmers in shades of green, orange, red, and blue. And measures approximately one-third of the bird’s total body length! Although the toucan’s beak looks heavy, it is actually quite light! My goodness, was I happy about this sighting!

The trio was completed by a third species and at the same time, the smallest of the toucans: the a bit grumpy looking Groove-billed Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus sulcatus). The Groove-billed Toucanet is a species belonging to the toucan family and it is found exclusively in northern South America, in Colombia and Venezuela. It was all the more wonderful that I managed to capture a great photo, in which I was able to isolate the bird beautifully against the background while it perched on a branch. I was absolutely thrilled with my toucan haul in Colombia and delighted by every single bird I saw.

Colombia is a birdwatcher’s paradise and, with its rich biodiversity, is every bit as good as its better-known neighbours, Costa Rica and Panama. Last December, I spent two weeks in Colombia focusing on birdwatching, travelling to Minca in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the north. The Mountain House Lodge is situated high above the central tourist village of Minca, in the heart of the subtropical forest at an altitude of 1,700 metres, and its microclimate makes it a paradise for birds, especially hummingbirds. Here, with or without a birding guide, I had perfect conditions for observing many native and partly endemic hummingbird species, as well as birds from the finch, tanager and quetzal families.

I’d like to introduce you to a few birds here, starting with four species of the beautiful hummingbirds. The first two birds in the gallery are a Sparkling Violetear ( Colibri coruscans), followed by the colourful Crowned Woodnymph (Thalurania colombica), the nimble White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora) and a Brown Violetear (Colibri delphinae). The pretty green hummingbird with the red beak is a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl).

In the next gallery, I’ll show you the Blue-naped Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea) from the finch family, the small toucan, the Groove-billed Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus sulcatus), the White-tipped Quetzal ( Pharomachrus fulgidus) and, once again, the White-necked Jacobin, as well as another Sparkling Violetear Hummingbird in flight.

I had great fun and joy at sunset when I was able to photograph the pretty hummingbirds silhouetted against the stunning orange-red sky.

You can see all the photos of the birds I was able to observe and photograph in Minca in the ‘Birdwatching in Colombia’ section of my travel report website. Enjoy!

Torotoro National Park is a relatively undiscovered gem – one of Bolivia’s most impressive yet least-visited natural areas, situated far off the beaten tourist path. During my trip to Bolivia last September, I visited this fascinating national park and was captivated by its natural beauty, its fantastic rock formations, and its striking dinosaur footprints. Established in 1989, the park’s landscape was shaped over millions of years by tectonic movements, sedimentation, and erosion. Particularly defining features are the layers of sedimentary rock dating back to the Cretaceous period, within which dinosaur footprints have been preserved to this day. The uplift of the Andes Mountains raised these layers, which were subsequently exposed by the forces of wind and water. Thus emerged the unique landscape seen today, characterized by rugged rocks, deep gorges, and expansive valleys. Torotoro National Park is located approximately 130 kilometers east of the city of Cochabamba and covers an area of ​​165 square kilometers, spanning elevations ranging from 2,000 to 3,500 meters above sea level.

Access to the park is permitted only when accompanied by local guides – a requirement that serves not only to ensure visitors’ safety within this challenging terrain but, above all, to protect the park’s fragile natural environment. At the tourist guide office in the small town of Torotoro, I booked two tours: one leading to the rock city known as *Ciudad de Itas*, and another to the millions-of-years-old dinosaur footprints.

Situated at an altitude of 3,500 meters lies the rock city of Ciudad de Itas – also referred to as “Stone City.” The name “Itas” originates from the Quechua language and roughly translates to “Stone House” or “Stone Camp.” The name is perfectly fitting as this rock city consists of labyrinthine limestone formations that resemble a petrified metropolis – evoking the appearance of cathedrals or houses carved from stone. The hike through the Ciudad de Itas felt like a stroll through another world as this landscape of bizarre rock formations truly calls to mind an abandoned city. Over millennia, wind and water have sculpted the soft sandstone, giving shape to towers, arches, and sculptural formations. Some rocks resemble mushrooms, while others look like petrified figures or crumbling walls. A particular highlight is the collection of natural rock arches and vast, cathedral-like caverns through which visitors can walk. The rock arches frame the landscape like windows; the ceilings soar high overhead, and yes! It truly does feel just like being inside a cathedral!

The hike through the Ciudad de Itas – which takes around two hours – was a thrilling experience, offering spectacular natural scenery and landscapes; it is undoubtedly one of the highlights of Torotoro National Park.

The second fascinating highlight consists of the countless, perfectly preserved dinosaur tracks that can be found at various locations throughout the park. A large concentration of these dinosaur footprints is located in the Carreras Pampa area. In this specific spot and the surrounding vicinity, a total of over 16,000 footprints and tracks have been discovered! They were left primarily by carnivorous, three-toed theropod dinosaurs dating back to the Cretaceous period, over 100 million years ago. The impressions reveal not only walking gaits but also traces of swimming. Suggesting that, at that time, the coastline ran right through this very spot! I was truly impressed by these tracks: the prints were remarkably deep and incredibly distinct. From a geological perspective, this makes perfect sense; for where today lies nothing but dry, rocky terrain, there was once fine, soft sand and a sea.

At the Huellas de Dinosaurios site on the outskirts of Torotoro, there is yet another area featuring well-preserved dinosaur tracks. Quite rightly, this section has also been fenced off and secured to prevent any damage or erosion; consequently, a visit to this site is possible only when accompanied by a local guide. The Huellas de Dinosaurios (Spanish for “dinosaur footprints”) features a vast, million-year-old trail of dinosaur tracks deeply embedded in the sediment. The footprints are set directly into tilted rock slabs that were uplifted long ago by the tectonic movements of the Andes. What was once a flat, muddy surface has now petrified, appearing like a frozen snapshot from the Cretaceous period. The tracks run in distinct lines and rows, allowing one to almost retrace the dinosaurs’ exact path! The footprints have been exposed in several spots, and it is believed that many more tracks would be uncovered if the overlying soil were to be removed – though there are currently no plans to do so.

To wrap things up for Torotoro, here is a panoramic photo of the magnificent Torotoro mountain landscape, crisscrossed by numerous canyons. You can find more photos and a detailed story of my visit to Torotoro National Park in the Torotoro chapter of my travel blog.

In September, I spent two weeks traveling through Bolivia, and the hike to Laguna Esmeralda, located in the Cordillera Real near La Paz, was one of the highlights of my trip.

The high-alpine landscape of the Cordillera Real sits at an elevation of over 4,000 meters and is characterized by vast plains, dark rock formations, and rugged mountain ranges. Particularly striking is the imposing Huayna Potosí, whose snow-capped summit, towering at 6,088 meters, stands like a silent guardian over the region. Depending on the weather, the mountain appears crisp and tangible, or suddenly vanishes into dense clouds.

The hike to Laguna Esmeralda, also known as Laguna Charquini, begins at the Base Camp situated below the Charquini Glacier at an altitude of 4,600 meters. The trail follows the former glacier tongue, covering a distance of 1.5 kilometers with an elevation gain of just over 400 meters. What was once a massive cascade of ice is now bare rock and scree, where amidst the harsh climate only a few small plants have managed to take root. As always, I had no trouble with the altitude; by this point, I was accustomed to it and have never suffered from the notorious effects of altitude sickness – lucky me! The air at this elevation was noticeably thinner, of course, meaning the walking pace was slower than usual. This explains the longer hiking time – slightly over an hour – required to cover such a relatively short distance.

The lagoon is renowned for its crystal-clear, mineral-rich water; on days with little wind, it mirrors the vast blue sky and the surrounding mountains, creating a breathtaking panorama. Unfortunately, it was too windy on the day of my visit to capture a perfect reflection; nevertheless, the scenery at the lake was stunning and made the strenuous ascent entirely worthwhile.

On the way back, I visited the historic Milluni Cemetery, where graves serve as memorials to the miners who lost their lives during the political unrest of the 1960s. Tin, zinc, and lead were mined here. A process that, unfortunately, permanently contaminated the local lakes such as Laguna Milluni with toxic residues of arsenic, cadmium, and iron. What a shame! With its small, house-like structures, the cemetery has the appearance of a miniature graveyard, while behind it, Huayna Potosí towers majestically. That afternoon, the peak was completely free of clouds and looked simply fantastic.

You can view all the photos and find more information about this hike, as well as my mountain biking adventure on the infamous “Camino de la Muerte (Death Road) ” in the “Bolivia: La Paz & Camino de la Muerte” chapter on my travel website. Enjoy!

Impressions of the mountain biking on Camino de la Muerte in Bolivia:

Rainbow Mountain Vinicunca was another item on my Peru bucket list, so I made a hike to the mountain following my visit to Machu Picchu. Rainbow Mountain Vinicunca is situated at an altitude of nearly 5,000 meters in the Peruvian Andes, approximately 100 kilometers southeast of Cusco, amidst the Ausangate mountain range.

Rainbow Mountain Vinicunca is one of those places that is almost impossible to describe without sounding a little exaggerated. This mountain stands right in the heart of the landscape, its colors appearing as if scattered at random – almost as if someone had painted the scenery and then simply left it that way. Vinicunca owes its extraordinary appearance to an interplay of geological processes that unfolded over millions of years. Originally, various sediments – layers of sand, clay and mineral-rich deposits – accumulated in this region. Each of these layers contains distinct minerals: iron oxides create the reddish hues, copper compounds provide the greenish nuances and other substances produce the yellow and beige tones. Over time, these sedimentary layers were uplifted and folded by the tectonic forces that formed the Andes. This process created the mountain’s current undulating structure, in which the colored layers are visibly stacked one atop the other. The fact that we can see these colors so vividly today is also due to erosion: wind, rain, and temperature fluctuations have worn away the upper layers, exposing the colorful rock formations lying beneath. Interestingly, for a long time, Vinicunca was not known as a tourist attraction at all. Until just two decades ago, the mountain was largely covered in snow and ice. It was only as the glaciers receded that the colored layers gradually became visible, transforming Rainbow Mountain into the attraction it is today.

Incidentally, the vibrant colors only truly come to life under the power of the sun. Without sunlight, the colors appear rather muted; however, when bathed in sunshine, they become truly rich and vivid. On the internet, you can find many overly saturated photos that truly do not correspond to reality in the slightest. The colors are just as you can see here: rather muted when it is cloudy, but beautifully colorful and vivid in the sunlight.

To see the Rainbow Mountain, you must first earn the view by undertaking a hike of approximately 90 minutes, covering 3.5 kilometers and an elevation gain of 300 meters. At 4,700 meters, the air was already noticeably thinner and my hiking pace was adjusted accordingly. The trail winds through vast, open landscapes, passing small settlements and grazing alpacas. With every step upward, the air grew thinner, and I quickly realized that the real challenge here was not the distance, but the altitude – a challenge, however, that I handled very well. When the colorful Rainbow Mountain finally came into view after the last switchbacks, it appeared almost surreal. Clearly defined, vibrant layers stretch across the slope – alternating in shades of rust-red, ochre, turquoise, and light beige. Rising behind it stands the mighty Ausangate, whose dark summit forms a striking contrast to the warm hues of the Rainbow Mountain.

Initially, low-hanging clouds drifted over the pass, at times completely obscuring the view; yet, after a few minutes, the sun prevailed, and Vinicunca shone forth in all its colorful splendor. The hike had been well worth it!

You can view all the photos and read the full travelogue of this hike in the chapter titled “Vinicunca – The Rainbow Mountain” on my travel website. Enjoy!

Machu Picchu! A visit to this magnificent Inca city – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983 – was a dream and a wish I had cherished for years, one that I finally fulfilled last September. Situated high in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 2,400 meters and hidden amidst steep, lush green mountain slopes, Machu Picchu is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in the world. Built in the 15th century – around 1450 – under the Inca ruler Pachacutec, the city is now over 500 years old; it impresses visitors with its precisely crafted stone terraces, temples, and residential complexes, which blend harmoniously into the dramatic landscape.

The city consists of carefully hewn stone structures, agricultural terraces, a sophisticated water system, and temple complexes – all constructed without mortar, yet with such precision that they remain stable to this day. It is particularly striking how harmoniously the site integrates into the steep, green mountain scenery, embraced by a looping bend of the Urubamba River. To this day, there is no definitive consensus regarding why Machu Picchu was built, though there are many theories. The most probable explanation is that the city served as a royal retreat, a religious sanctuary for the worship of the sun god Inti, and a strategic administrative hub for controlling the territory situated between the Andes and the Amazon.

Likewise, it remains unknown with any certainty why Machu Picchu was abandoned after a mere 100 years or so. With the onset of the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire in the 1530s, the region came under increasing pressure. Although the Spanish likely never reached Machu Picchu directly, warfare, political instability, and introduced diseases – such as smallpox – ultimately led to the collapse of Inca society. It is believed that the inhabitants gradually abandoned the city, either out of fear of the conquerors or because supply systems collapsed. Afterward, the city remained hidden from the outside world for a long time and was only rediscovered in 1911 by the American scholar Hiram Bingham.

I wanted to see, experience, and feel all of this for myself, so I spent two days in the Inca city. Early in the morning, at 5:30 AM, I took one of the first shuttle buses up to the entrance of Machu Picchu, which opens its gates punctually at six o’clock. For the first day, I had booked a ticket for Route 2B – the “Ruta Terraza Inferior” (Lower Terrace Route). A visit to Machu Picchu must be booked well in advance, as the number of daily visitors is regulated through reservations for specific routes and time slots. Entrance tickets for sunrise, in particular, are highly sought after, and those slots book up very quickly. Tickets can be booked online via the website of Peru’s Ministry of Culture (Ministerio de Cultura). There are three main circuits to choose from, each comprising two to three specific routes. These routes can be combined, but each route must be booked and paid for individually – which certainly adds up in terms of Peruvian soles!

All routes are designed as one-way paths, meaning you are not permitted to turn back. This is enforced by numerous guards and makes perfect sense; it prevents chaos and ensures that all visitors have ample space to enjoy the incredible views of the Inca city and the spectacular surrounding landscape. Route 2B initially ascends steeply through a forest until you reach the first terraces – the vantage point offering THE iconic view of the ruins: the very view I had dreamed of seeing for almost my entire life! It took a little while for the sun to finally crest the mountain peaks and bathe the ruins in a magical golden light – it was pure magic! Getting up early had truly paid off for me; after sunrise, I completed my circuit of the site, taking my time to explore the ruins and savor the views of the majestic mountains.

For my second day at Machu Picchu, I had once again booked the first entry slot of the morning – this time, however, combining it with the Panorama Circuit (Route 1A) and a hike up Montaña Machu Picchu. On Panorama Route 1, the ascent leads through a small forest up to the upper terrace, from where one can admire a magnificent view of the Inca city and the imposing mountain landscape. Unfortunately, I wasn’t quite so lucky with the weather that day, and the sky was completely overcast. The highest peaks were even shrouded in dense clouds, leaving no hope for beautiful lighting. It was a shame, but that only made me all the more grateful that yesterday had brought a perfect sunrise with the most exquisite light! The atmosphere and mood were now entirely different; from this perspective – framed by the dramatic clouds – the Inca city appeared positively mystical.

Due to the low-hanging clouds, hiking up Montaña Machu Picchu no longer made much sense, so I decided against it. Instead, I attempted to swap that hike for the trek to the Inca Bridge. And sure enough, the park ranger was cooperative and let me through! Thus, my Route 1A became Route 1D.

The hike to the Inca Bridge – along a narrow path winding through the forest – takes only about 30 minutes. At the end of the trail, a small viewing platform offers a glimpse of the spectacular Inca Bridge, which is built directly into the sheer rock face. For safety reasons, crossing the bridge is strictly prohibited, and access is blocked by a gate. The mysterious Inca Bridge is situated along the steep mountain flanks of Machu Picchu; it is an (allegedly) unassuming, yet impressive, feature of the complex. Carved into the rock and partially constructed from wood, it spans a narrow, precipitous drop-off on the mountainside and once served as a controlled access point to the city. What a daring feat of engineering – designed in such a way that individual wooden beams could be removed in an emergency to thwart intruders. It is precisely this blend of strategic importance, simple construction, and spectacular setting that makes it such a fascinating detail – one that demonstrates just how skillfully the Inca knew how to utilize their environment.

Alongside the typical attractions of the Inca city, the Inca Bridge undoubtedly ranks as one of the most unique – and less well-known or visited – experiences at Machu Picchu; I can wholeheartedly recommend that everyone make a point of visiting it. For me, it greatly enriched my visit to Machu Picchu.

You can find my complete travelogue on Machu Picchu featuring plenty of photos and information on my travel website: Travel report Machu Picchu in Peru

The Polloquere hot springs are located in the middle of the vast Salar de Surire salt flat in a remote region of the northern Altiplano in Chile. The salt flat lies at an altitude of 4,245 meters and covers an area of ​​1,750 km², with expansive, shimmering white salt flats interspersed with small, deep blue lagoons. The Salar has been a protected natural monument since 1983. Furthermore, it was designated a Ramsar site (an international convention for the protection of wetlands) in 1996, underscoring its international importance as a wetland. Unfortunately, borax is also mined on the salt flat and transported by large trucks towards Putre – this explains the wide gravel track that stretches for kilometers from the salt flat to the paved Ruta 11.

The hot springs can be reached via a well-maintained dirt track, for which a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary on this section. The thermal springs consist of natural pools in the salt crust, where water bubbles up at temperatures of up to 66°C. The water is rich in minerals, and there’s a slightly sulfurous smell in the air, which is typical of geothermally active springs.

My highlight during this short trip from Arica was experiencing a sunrise at the steaming hot springs. It was a freezing morning at -14°C, but the cold was quickly forgotten given the scenic beauty in the early morning hours! During the blue hour, the mountains began to glow a beautiful golden light, reflecting the warm light in the west, where the sun was about to rise. The hot springs steamed in the crisp, cold air, creating a fantastic atmosphere. I wandered among the steaming pools, constantly finding beautiful compositions with reflections of the mountains in the small pools of the thermal springs. The sun rose, bathing the mountains in the beautiful, warm light of the first rays of sunlight. The reflections made it perfect and I was incredibly happy with my results on that cold morning in the Salar de Surire.

Over half of my time in Chile and South America is already over – as always when traveling, time simply flies! So today it was time to take a look back home to Laufenburg, where autumn is slowly approaching. I have lived in Laufenburg (Baden) for nine years now, even though I only stay there four to five months a year and spend most of it traveling.

My current hometown, Laufenburg, is idyllically situated on the Upper Rhine, right on the border with Switzerland and the Black Forest. The old Rhine bridge connects the German and Swiss towns of Laufenburg – two countries, two towns that together tell a fascinating story. The bridge over the Upper Rhine has connected the two towns of Laufenburg for centuries. Today, it is not only a practical crossing, but also a symbol of the connection between Germany and Switzerland. With its narrow streets, colorful house facades, and the remains of the medieval city wall, the old town is the heart of Laufenburg. Above the Swiss part of Laufenburg rises the Schlossberg, with the ruins of an old castle. The two towns together create a picturesque scene, which I want to share with you in these autumnal photos.

Simply to remind me what “home” looks like until I return in a few weeks.