Sail Ariel

Epilogue

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Wed, 25 Mar 2026 15:06:00 +0000

We wrote in 2010 about buying a property in Corning, N.Y., with plans to demolish the existing home and build a new one. We have been asked by blog readers if we followed through.

It has been many years since we ended our time aboard Ariel. Ariel was sold in the autumn, a few months after it was put on the market. We were living in the small, rundown house that we had purchased while still cruising. We planned to build a new house and then demolish the old one. We decided to construct a modular home. We found a design we liked and made modifications before construction started. The property contours required us to place the garage underneath the house, and we were limited to a one-car garage. We had a bit of a tussle with the zoning board. They wanted us to demolish the old house before constructing the new one. Since we were living in the old house, this would add a substantial cost to our project. We won them over at the Zoning Board meeting.

We were very happy with our new home. We continued to develop the property and eventually bought some adjacent land, bringing the total acreage to ten.

The primary reason for moving to Corning, New York, was to be near Norm's mother. After she passed away in 2021, we began looking for a new home in Ohio. Maintaining our property was getting to be more than we wanted to handle, so we were ready for something different. After extensive research, we decided to focus our search on Norwalk, Ohio. It is a town we passed through on one of our camping trips, and Norm developed a good feeling about it. We had raised our three children in Ohio, so the move was to get closer to them. Two families are living in Ohio, and one in Michigan; Norwalk seemed a good central location. It also fits the bill of being well away from major metropolitan areas. We bought a condominium, coming full circle since we lived in a condominium before we began cruising.

In With The New

Out With The Old

Later After Landscaping

Time For The Adventure To End

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Fri, 24 May 2013 18:31:00 +0000

We began cruising in 2007. The dream began well before that. We don't recall the exact date we decided to go for it. We identified the Island Packet 380 as our ideal cruising boat when it was introduced in 1998. We bought Ariel in 2001 and immediately began outfitting for cruising. When we set out in 2007, we didn't have any predetermined timeline. We came up with a potential target of six years only because we put the proceeds from the sale of our condominium into certificates of deposit and adopted the concept of laddering. We had two-year and three-year certificates, and with rollovers, they would all mature at the same time in six years. Nice concept, but we bailed out of certificates of deposit without rollovers with the interest rate decline.

When we decided to go to Panama, we expected to stay two years, and that would make at least seven. Before returning to Panama last autumn, we had reached the decision that we were ready to move on, and so we changed our plans. Rather than spend an extended period in the San Blas Islands in Panama and then sail on to Cartagena, Colombia, we shortened our time there and began the long trip back. We feel fortunate that we both were ready to give it up at the same time. We have spent two previous summers living and working on a property we bought three years ago as the site for our post-cruising life. We have really enjoyed these summers, and it was becoming harder and harder to leave.

We are so fortunate to have seen and experienced so much over the past six years. We cruised the East Coast from Maine to Florida and spent one summer season exploring New England and, more specifically, Maine. When we lived in Massachusetts and kept our boats in Rhode Island, we never had the extended time required to take a boat to Maine. We spent another summer on the Chesapeake Bay and have returned there at the end of our cruising years. We made three round-trips on the Intracoastal Waterway, which, when we started out, traveling the ICW was probably our number one goal. We especially like South Carolina's Lowcountry and Eastern North Carolina. These areas are mostly undeveloped where the ICW passes through, mostly because they are such wetlands, and if you haven't figured it out by now, we really like nature.

Before we began our journey, we really expected to visit the eastern Caribbean. Much of our reading and research was about these island countries. We spent two seasons in the Bahamas, which would be a natural jumping-off point for the eastern Caribbean, but we started hearing about the western Caribbean, and the more we looked at it, the more we realized it was a much better match for our interests.

The biggest leap for us during the entire six years was setting off from Key West for the three-day and three-night trip to Mexico. Our buddy boat had to cancel due to medical issues just days before our departure, so we set off alone. That trip really built our confidence and set the stage for exploring Central America.

Guatemala became our home port of sorts as we left Ariel there during two hurricane seasons. We came to love Guatemala and toured inland more than in any other country we visited. The cruising community on the Rio Dulce is large and active, so it was never boring.

After we arrived in Rock Hall, Maryland, we immediately started unloading our stuff. It took three trips, once with a rental car and twice with our SUV, to cart off everything, and each time we were packed to capacity. Ariel has been put on the market, and we are back working on our gardens and landscaping. We plan to meet with a builder later this year to replace the small, beyond-salvage house that came with the property.

We feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to cruise. We are often asked if we are going to miss it. We don't feel that way. We enjoyed it immensely and have so many fond memories, but we have turned to the next chapter and are too engaged in that to spend time thinking about alternatives.

This, needless to say, is the last posting for this blog.

"Fair Winds And Following Seas" ~ /) ~

Traveling The ICW And Back On The Chesapeake

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Fri, 10 May 2013 21:40:00 +0000

We began our trip north from Florida by positioning ourselves on the down river side of Jacksonville, closer to the mouth of the river, so we could get an early morning departure, both to take advantage of the favorable current and to assure a daylight arrival in Charleston harbor. As luck would have it, we had wind on the bow or near so the whole way, so it was a motor sailing trip from start to finish. Our speed was slower than planned, so we arrived too late to catch a bridge opening we needed to get to our intended anchorage just north of Charleston. We passed Fort Sumter on our way to an anchorage in Charleston harbor across from City Marina. In the past, we have always avoided this anchorage because it is usually crowded, not well protected, and subject to strong currents. We didn't expect it to be crowded at this time of year, and so we did find a spot with adequate swinging room. To our amazement, we had a very pleasant night. Taking the outside route was about 65 miles shorter, even backtracking a little to our anchorage, but it also saved at least three days of travel time. We had a rough plan for stops on the ICW, mostly to revisit our favorite anchorages and maybe even stop at a couple of marinas, something we seldom do. With our unexpected stop in Charleston, our plan was thrown into disarray. We made it to Georgetown, SC, the next day, again short of our plan, but enjoyed another nice, peaceful evening. With an early start, we felt we could get back on plan, but plans went awry again when we reached North Myrtle Beach for a fuel stop. It was only 3:30, but Barefoot Resort had just filled up their fuel dock with overnight transient boats, so they were no longer pumping fuel for the day. Not wanting to proceed without topping off the fuel, we took a slip across the waterway at Barefoot Landing Marina for the night. A very strong storm system was sweeping across the country and was due in our area late the next evening. We decided to make a short travel day and, after getting our fuel, proceeded to Ocean Isle Marina in Ocean Isle, North Carolina. Ocean Isle Marina is a dry stack storage facility for smaller power boats, but they have room for one transient boat at the end of their dock furthest out into the waterway. This was our planned stop the previous day. Norm's cousin Bob and his wife Hattie live just a few streets from the marina. Unfortunately, Bob was working that day, but after Bob got off from work, we all went out for a couple of drinks. While our visit was short, we were happy to see each other. The next day, after the front passed through, we had a good travel day and arrived at Wrightsville Beach, our intended stop. The next day, Sunday, April 21, was the harshest we have ever spent on the waterway. The skies were clear and blue, but the air was cold, and the wind was blowing around 30, and gusting higher mostly on our bow, and to make things even worse, the current was against us all day. We came very close to having our way blocked. Some of the bridges cannot operate in high winds. When we arrived at the Surf City bridge, it could not be opened because the wind was in excess of 25 knots. After a brief wait and thoughts of dropping the hook, there was a momentary lull in the wind, and the bridge tender decided to give it a try. It opened oh so slowly, but it did open, and we got through. Later, the Coast Guard announced that the Figure Eight Island Bridge had suspended operations due to the wind. We had cleared that bridge earlier in the day. We arrived at our anchorage at Camp Lajeune (Mile Hammock). This is one of the most popular anchorages on the waterway, and we found it empty. Later, just one other boat joined us. Of course, we are well ahead of the spring northern migration. We found one anchor would not hold, so we put a second in a V shape off the bow, and that did the trick. We were solidly in place, and we both slept peacefully even as the winds howled all night. The next morning, the winds had not subsided, so we decided to stay put and travel the following day, which was predicted to be better. After our lay day at Mile Hammock, the weather was much improved, and we were once again underway. A couple of days later, we found ourselves in Belhaven, North Carolina. We have always stopped in Belhaven, and it is one of our favorites. The many empty storefronts are a witness to a town struggling, but we have found the people to be the friendliest you will find anywhere. For our first time, while stopping at Belhaven, we decided to go into a marina. We stopped at the Belhaven Waterway Marina, which is right in town, actually next door to the dinghy dock, which in the past was our access point to town. Since our last visit three years ago, Belhaven was flooded during a hurricane, so a couple more stores were closed, and the laundromat moved to higher ground, luckily still within reasonable walking distance. We went out to dinner at the Fish Hooks Cafe as a walk down memory lane. Before beginning our first trip down the ICW in 2007, we met Iain and Jan on Jocks Lodge. They were experienced with the ICW, so we asked them to tag along for a couple of days. This was all arranged, sitting in our dinghy next to their boat, so we really didn't know them as we started out. Likewise, Ted and Alice on Windsong asked to tag along with us. After clearing the idea with Jan and Iain, the three boats started out together. After three days of travel together, we arrived in Belhaven and stayed a couple of days. It was in Belhaven that we finally started to get to know one another. Iain and Jan treated the four of us to dinner at the Fish Hooks Cafe as an appreciation for assisting them when their engine quit with a clogged fuel line, and after that was fixed, they got a line wrapped around their prop. Assistance was in the form of towing them across Albemarle Sound in rough seas and helping untangle the prop. The food at that time at the Fish Hooks was not recommended, but we had a wonderful time together. This time around, the food was excellent. The six of us on our three boats spent the next few months cruising together. Iain, Jan, Ted, and Alice became close friends, and we have continued to stay in touch.

This trip, we decided to take the Virginia Cut. Crossing Albemarle Sound, there is a choice to be made between the Dismal Swamp route and the Virginia Cut route. This is our sixth trip on the ICW (three round-trips), and with the decision to take the Virginia Cut, we split evenly between the two routes.

On April 27, just two weeks after leaving the marina on the St Johns in Florida, we arrived in Hampton on the lower end of the Chesapeake and were happy to be back in open waters. The weather has been either very nice or very miserable. Our first day on the Chesapeake was cold with misty rain, and that night the rain intensified and continued nonstop through the following day. After lying over for a day at anchor, we had a fantastic day with good sailing. Our next stop was the Solomons, where we had our summer home in 2009. Again, rain was forecast for the following day, so we took a slip at the Solomons Harbor Marina (Holiday Inn). It was good to get off the boat and to see places so familiar to us. Our highlight was dinner at Boomerangs, a place we like, and when we had visitors, we invariably took them to Boomerangs, which specializes in ribs.

After two days in the Solomons, we again had another great travel day; the wind was a little close, so we motor-sailed, but we caught a favorable current from the incoming tide all the way. We arrived at Gratitude Marina in Rock Hall, our new home for Ariel, on May 2, five months after leaving Panama.

Our laptop keyboard finally gave out, so until we were able to order a new keyboard and install it, updating the blog just wasn't going to happen. This laptop has spent six years at sea, so it's understandable that it has developed this problem. Now it seems good as new, but just a little slower by today's standards. Anyway, that is why this post is long-winded.

Refreshed And Ready To Go

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Sun, 14 Apr 2013 00:00:00 +0000

We are getting underway again after about a month here on the St. Johns River in northern Florida. It has been both a wonderful and a very exhausting time. The marina is a laid-back and friendly place, and its location close to shopping was perfect for what we needed to get done. Linda's sister, Dale, and her husband Steve live just 35 minutes south of the marina. They came to see us right after we arrived, and we went to their house for Easter dinner, and Linda also took a couple of days off the boat to stay at her sister's. Enterprise Car had a weekend special going at $9.99 per day, so we were able to have a car on weekends. We also just recently rented one for a week and made two trips to the Daytona area with it. We first went down to see our son Dan and his wife Lesli and and our grandson Thomas. They were vacationing in Ormond Beach, which is just north of Daytona. It was a cold and slightly damp day, but we managed to play one round of putt-putt golf and had a great day with them. We returned to Daytona a second time and spent a weekend in a condo that Linda's sister, Darlene, had reserved with her RCI points. Then on Monday, Linda's sisters, Darlene and Lois, arrived, as did Dale a short while after. After sharing a couple of pizzas at the condo, Steve and Norm were on their way, leaving the four sisters for their week together. They had a wonderful time and kept quite busy. Besides just enjoying the sun and the beach, they also visited a chocolate factory, a botanical garden, the speedway, and a luau, among other things.

Darlene, Dale, Lois, Linda

Darlene, Lois, Linda, Dale

Now, the exhausting side of our stay here. Let's just say working on the boat is getting old. We stripped the exterior teak again down to bare wood and refinished it. That actually consumed one-half of our available work time. We touched up all the bright metal, which was in great shape when we left Mexico, but we now added a protective coat of wax. We cleaned and waxed the hull and topsides, which were really showing the stress it had endured from the tropics. We cleaned the bimini and dodger and sprayed them with a protective coating. We also built a new clear vinyl connector between the dodger and bimini. Inside, we re-oiled the teak and, of course, gave it a good cleaning. Repairs were few and inexpensive. I can't believe I am saying our boat repairs were inexpensive, as that is almost an oxymoron. Anyway, we repaired a leaking pump on the head, replaced a failed part on the watermaker, and repaired the generator without any new parts, other than replacing the air filter. The generator had been hard-starting. An expert at Massey (Massey acquired Entec West, the manufacturer of our generator) suggested the air filter could be clogged by mold, but also suggested re-torquing the head bolts and checking valve clearance. I did all three, but the filter was probably the culprit since the generator sat idle in a rainforest for several months. The filter looked normal, so I didn't suspect it. We did many other small things, and Ariel is now probably in the same condition as when we began cruising six years ago.

The weather was a little cooler than we anticipated. We knew it would be cool at times, but for the first two weeks here, it was actually running about 10 degrees below normal. All and all, it has been very pleasant with very little rain.

Our plan is to go offshore from the mouth of the St. Johns to Charleston and then stay on the inside on the ICW to Norfolk, Virginia.

A Couple Days With Bill And Pat (Mobetah)

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 19:51:00 +0000

The highlight of our trip up the ICW in Florida was stopping in Palm Coast to visit Bill and Pat (Mobetah). We last saw Bill and Pat in the spring of 2011. We took an inland trip to Antigua and Lago Atitlán in Guatemala with them and had a wonderful time. Some of my fondest memories were made with Bill and Pat, with whom we also traveled to Copan, Honduras, in 2010, amongst other adventures. At one time, they directed readers of their blog to ours to find out what they were doing. We missed seeing them when we returned to Guatemala in the fall of 2011, before we departed for Panama. They would usually return at about the same time, but they were delayed while trying to buy a condominium in Palm Coast. Bill had investigated condominium foreclosure sales and had decided the time was probably about right to jump into the market. It was a time-consuming process, but having now seen their home, it was no doubt well worth the effort. We always planned to visit Bill and Pat, one way or the other. We thought we would go up the coast on the outside, and then, once Ariel was secure in a marina, we would drive over to see them. As it happens, we could not go outside, so the ICW took us right to their condominium, just a few steps away. It is a great spot for watching boat traffic.

Pat and Bill

They had arranged for us to keep our boat in a condominium marina (free) while we stayed at their home. We could only stay a couple of days as we were already running a little behind schedule, and Bill and Pat made it hard to leave. We really enjoyed our visit. They have become full-fledged dirt dwellers, but they are working very hard to bring some of the social aspects of the cruising life to their community. Thanks for being wonderful friends (Bill and Pat), and thank you for opening your wonderful home to us.

We are now at Fleming Island Marina, on the St. Johns River and near Orange Park, Florida. We were last on the St. Johns our first year cruising. Linda's sister, Dale, and her husband, Steve, live farther up the St. Johns River near Palatka. A bridge just above Green Cove Springs prevents us from taking Ariel to their house. We have been registered here for a month. During that time, our son and his family will be vacationing at our timeshare in Ormond Beach, which we bought in 1982 and which is still getting lots of use after all these years. Ormond Beach is a short drive, so we look forward to seeing them. We will, of course, spend a lot of time with Steve and Dale, but Linda's other sisters, Lois and Darlene, are coming to Florida while we are here, so all the girls will be together. Darlene's husband, John, passed very recently, so it is fitting that they will spend some time together. When not otherwise engaged, we are doing some serious work on Ariel. Three years in the subtropics and tropics was very hard on the sun-exposed surfaces, plus we have a list of maintenance items to address. Hopefully, everything will be working when we leave Florida, and Ariel will look much better.

Getting Reacquainted With The Ditch

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 21:09:00 +0000

We had hopes of continuing up the Florida coast on the outside, but a gale in the north Atlantic has created a large swell up and down the eastern seaboard, including Florida. Rather than wait for better conditions, we are slowly plodding along on the Intracoastal Waterway. It is very confining for us to stay in the Ditch, that is, stay within the lines, after we haven't even had lines for so long now. We have stopped at the Titusville Municipal Marina. Our water tank, last filled in Isla Mujeres almost three weeks ago, was almost empty, and the laundry situation was reaching a critical point.

Another pelican - can't help it, Norm especially likes these guys. We have two right now sitting on posts behind the boat, keeping and eye on us

Working Our Way North Along Florida

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 18:49:00 +0000

The forecast for the next several days is for winds from the north or northwest. There is a fixed bridge on the Intracoastal Waterway in Miami that we cannot get under, so at a minimum, we need to go out and around to Port Everglades (Fort Lauderdale). Still, we planned to re-enter at Lake Worth and avoid 21 bridge openings over about a 44-mile stretch of the ICW. We found an opportunity for a night trip, with winds forecast to be light and more from the west-northwest. We knew the seas would be calm with the wind coming off the coast. We pulled anchor just before 6 pm. There was a cruise ship in port, so we went around behind, rather than going down the cruise ship channel.

We went out about 2 ½ miles and then turned north to parallel the coast. It was perfect, and we were enjoying a nice motoring ride in very calm seas. Well, we at least thought it was perfect. Upon waking up at 3 am to take my turn at watch, I checked the battery voltage and found the bank seriously discharged. The alternator was not charging the batteries. I couldn't find a quick and easy solution, so we turned off everything except the navigation lights. Since we were running along the coast, it wasn't too difficult to steer a course holding approximately the same distance from shore. The depth was not an issue, so we felt comfortable. We turned the chart plotter on once an hour to get a fix on our position.

We arrived at our planned destination, the Lake Worth inlet, just before sunrise and turned on the instruments for the few minutes it took to enter and get to a place to anchor. After getting some sleep, I diagnosed the problem to be the voltage regulator. I was able to bypass the voltage regulator and, very carefully, recharge the batteries at a safe voltage by controlling the engine speed. Later in the day, we moved the boat to North Palm Beach, which was where we had intended to anchor before our problem. What a break, or we are living a charmed life because there is a West Marine in North Palm Beach within a short walking distance. We were able to get a replacement voltage regulator, and all is well. Knock on Wood.

Now, southern Florida is experiencing the coldest weather this season, and we are asking ourselves if we got here too soon. Just kidding, it feels good to be back in the States. It looks like we may be here a few days waiting on a break in the string of fronts sweeping down from the north and west. Posted from Dunkin Donuts, Oh yeah, we are back in America.

Back In Our Home Country

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Mon, 04 Mar 2013 16:45:00 +0000

We just completed our best open water passage ever. We made it from Isla Mujeres, Mexico, to Dry Tortugas, a distance of 300 miles in 48 hours, by far our fastest ever passage. Of course, having both a favorable current and a favorable wind made it both easy and possible. The same current that carried us north from Belize at 2 knots also carried us north as we crossed the Yucatan Channel. We set the boat up to sail on a close reach and just let the current carry us. We saw currents as high as 3 ½ knots.

Our trip plan was developed by Linda. She reluctantly agreed to make landfall in Dry Tortugas, a place that has always been high on Norm's list. We arrived at Dry Tortugas National Park at a little after ten in the morning, which was perfect to allow time to get the boat organized, have lunch, and then visit Fort Jefferson. After visiting the fort, Linda exclaimed that it was well worth stopping there. Following our plan, we set sail after dinner for an overnight trip to Boot Key in the Florida Keys. This was another pleasant sail, and we arrived there just before lunch. We now had access to our cell phone, so we called Customs and Border Protection to report our arrival. After lunch, we pulled anchor and stopped at the fuel dock to top off the tank. We hadn't used much fuel, but the fuel docks are so convenient at the entrance to Boot Key Harbor. We re-anchored and relaxed the afternoon away. After an early dinner, we again set sail and continued along the Keys, arriving at one of our favorite anchorage spots in Miami Beach at 10:30 the following morning. Wow, what a trip. We remember our very first night at sea going down the New Jersey coast six years ago. Neither of us slept at all; we were so keyed up. Now each of us falls off to sleep within minutes of being relieved from watch. What a difference a few years of experience has made.

The Dry Tortugas lie about 70 miles west of Key West and are accessible only by boat or seaplane. The seven keys and surrounding coral reefs make up Fort Jefferson National Park. These keys are isolated, and there are no provisions or fuel here.

Ariel Within Range

Ponce de Leon discovered these tiny islands in 1513 while on his famous quest for the Fountain of Youth. He called the area Las Tortugas for the large number of sea turtles that inhabited the islands. Later, the area became known as the Dry Tortugas, as the word "dry" was a warning to sailors that no fresh water was to be found here.

Surrounded By A Moat

Pirates enjoyed the isolation of the islands until 1821, when Florida became part of the US and the pirates were finally driven out. In 1825, a lighthouse was erected on Garden Key to warn of the shoals and reefs, which had sunk a great number of ships.

High On Top Of Fort Jefferson

Then, in 1846, the strategic location of the Dry Tortugas was recognized, and construction of Fort Jefferson began. It took some 30 years and 16 million bricks to build the hexagonal fort, though it was never fully finished. In 1856, the present lighthouse on Loggerhead Key was built, making it the southernmost lighthouse in the continental US.

Next To Big Gun

Federal troops occupied the fort during the Civil War, when it served as a military prison. The most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, a physician who, not knowing of Lincoln's murder, set the broken leg of John Wilkes Booth. Dr. Mudd was sentenced to life in prison for this act.
Epidemics of yellow fever swept the fort during this time, but the efforts of Dr. Mudd saved hundreds of lives, and he was pardoned in 1869. Through the efforts of his family, he was finally absolved of all guilt in 1979, 110 years after his sentencing.

Garden Key Light - Anchoring Permitted Only Within One Mile Of Light

Next, Fort Jefferson became a naval base. In 1898, the battleship USS Maine left the Dry Tortugas and headed to Havana, Cuba, on her fateful voyage. A year later, the ship was blown up, an event that started the Spanish-American War. The fort also served as a coal station and a World War I seaplane base. Although its importance as a military base waned, its value as a natural resource grew. John Audubon visited the Dry Tortugas in 1832, and the area was made a marine sanctuary in 1908. In 1935, it was designated as a National Monument, and in 1992, it became a National Park. Today, the area is known for its abundant bird and marine life, its pirate and sunken-gold legends, and, of course, its incredible, unspoiled beauty.

Several of the keys in the Dry Tortugas are off limits during the nesting season between March and September, when some 100,000 sooty terns call Bush Key home. Disturbing the nest can be death for young birds. Brown and black noddies also nest in the vegetation between the sootie's rookery. While Bush Key is closed during the nesting season, Hospital and Long Keys are closed to visitors all year. All keys, except for Garden Key (where Fort Jefferson is located), are open only during daylight hours.

Prison Where Dr. Mudd Was Held

Some of the other birds that are likely to be spotted include the magnificent frigate birds with their huge seven-foot wingspan, masked boobies, brown boobies, double-crested cormorants, brown pelicans, and roseate terns.

There are day trips from Key West by boat or seaplane, and if you're in Key West, we recommend checking them out. Take along a swimsuit and a nice lunch. Bring everything you will need and plan to leave with any trash you may have.

Stopping in the Dry Tortugas was a nice, relaxing stop after three years in Central America before moving on and entering Government Cut in Miami and then dropping anchor in Miami Beach. While very relaxing on the boat, we are surrounded by luxury homes and can just feel the pace of a very vibrant city. We are happy to be back in the United States. We were really impressed with the new dinghy dock the city has built across from the Publix grocery store. Nowhere has shopping been easier than in Miami Beach, and with free WiFi provided by the city, this place is hard to beat.

Back To The Beginning

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:44:00 +0000

On March 9, 2010, we entered the Western Caribbean, making our first port of call at Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Here it is, almost three years later, and fittingly, Isla Mujeres will be our last port of call in the Western Caribbean. Since leaving the San Blas on December 1, it has been a fast-paced trip revisiting, albeit briefly, the places we got to know so well on the way to the south and west. It has, in many ways, been so much more relaxing on the return since we have been revisiting what had become something like our local neighborhoods, where everything is familiar.

More than anything, it has been a time for reflection as the memories have come surging back, especially of the people we have met, but also the places we visited and the things we did. We have necessarily spent many days and nights at sea since leaving the San Blas, so we have had plenty of time to reflect on our experiences and reminisce.

Isla Mujeres is as good as ever, and we won't mind waiting here for the weather. We are at Marina Paraiso, the same marina we stayed at three years ago. The cruising community, at times, can be so small. After securing our dock lines, I looked over at the boat next to us and was shocked to see Nicki on Ajaya, waiting to say hello. We last saw Phil and Nicki in Providencia and thought that was our final goodbye. That is one of the great aspects of this life, that you never really know when you will see your friends again, but you usually do.

I should mention that on the way to Mexico, we did spend some time in Belize, spending a few days each in both Placencia and Caye Caulker and overnight stops at smaller cays. We like Belize and found the check-in and check-out procedures much improved, especially the fees charged, meaning they now seem uniform and aboveboard. As we approached Isla Mujeres, we passed Cozumel at night and Cancun in the early morning hours. It was amazing to see the bright lights at both places, especially after so long in Central America, where electricity is prohibitively expensive and often unreliable.

We didn't plan it this way, but they are having Carnival in Isla Mujeres this weekend. We have never been to Carnival, and from what we have seen so far, the one here is family rated, which is what we would have expected based on our past experiences on the island.

As readers of this blog know, we have been traveling with Daragh and Cathryn on Chantey V since Providencia. It has been a great partnership as our schedules could not have been more closely aligned. We will be going our separate ways now, as they are headed for Cuba and then to the Bahamas, and well, we are not. They are a very interesting couple, and I am sure they will have some interesting stories to share about Cuba and beyond.

Ariel Splashed

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Wed, 16 Jan 2013 19:20:00 +0000

Our original five-day haul-out turned out to be thirteen days, but the quality of the work was excellent. Much of the extra time was due to rain, and the rest was probably due to a heavy workload at the boatyard. But we are back in the water, and as soon as we are provisioned, we plan to be underway again.

Final Touches

We're In, Well, Almost

Ariel Starting Year With Bottom Job

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Mon, 07 Jan 2013 15:32:00 +0000

We did not get the new year off to a good start on Ariel. In all of our years cruising, neither of us has been sick, thank the Lord, other than maybe a couple of very minor colds. On returning to the Rio Dulce, we became aware of a stomach virus and possibly a flu-like illness as well going around. This should not be surprising, as so many people are returning from their home countries, and there are also many vacationers here at this time of year. It hit Linda first on New Year's morning, actually just about midnight. Luckily, it is intense for about 24 hours, and then it takes a few days to regain strength and appetite. We had Ariel scheduled for hauled-out bottom painting at 9 am on January 3. Norm awakened on that day knowing his turn was next. Luckily, they were ready for us when we arrived at the travel lift, so the haul out went quickly. We had moved our stuff to the bungalow we rented at Captain John's Marina and made up the bed the day before, so as soon as Ariel was secure, we were off to the bungalow, and Norm was off to bed. Norm, like Linda, recovered from the worst of it in about 24 hours.

Living Room and Kitchen Very Open (Bedroom and bathroom in back are enclosed and have windows)

Our Own Dock

Fully Furnished Kitchen

Paint Removed Port Side

Starboard Side - Almost Done Removing Paint

It has been over ten years of adding layers of bottom paint to Ariel, so we decided it was time to remove it all and start over. We contracted with RAM Marina to remove all existing paint, epoxy over any imperfections, apply a barrier coat (to prevent water penetration into the fiberglass), and then apply new bottom paint. Having experienced living aboard the boat while in the yard two years ago, we knew it was not something we would repeat. We rented a very nice, fully furnished bungalow for Q1200, which is about $150 per week, or Q2500 for an extended stay, about $320 per month. One of the benefits was that we were able to move our food from our freezer and refrigerator (which does not work without seawater for cooling) to the bungalow. The work so far has been progressing on schedule, which is somewhat of a miracle because each night since we hauled, we have had steady and at times heavy rain, but the days for the most part have been dry. As I am writing this, though, our luck seems to be changing, as it is raining in what looks like an all-day event.

Back On Rio Dulce

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Thu, 27 Dec 2012 19:01:00 +0000

Daragh and Cathy Traveling On The Rio Dulce

Our travels from Providencia to Roatan with Daragh and Cathryn on Chantey V went exceedingly well. We were very often out of sight, but never out of radio contact, and we arrived at Roatan together. They are on a tight schedule as Cathy has to return to her teaching job in the fall of 2013, so they are trying to pack as much into two years as possible.

It is out of character for us to move at a fast pace, but we reached Honduras much sooner than we expected, so we decided to push on so we could spend Christmas in Guatemala with our old friends and new friends. I do not mean we sailed fast, but just that we would not spend much time in Honduras. After just three days in Roatan, Chantey V and Ariel departed for Utila. We cleared Honduras in Utila and left there after just two days. After an overnight passage, we were back in Guatemala. When we left Guatemala the previous year, we did not expect to return with Ariel, but, as we have mentioned many times, our plans are always very flexible. Besides wanting to be in Guatemala for Christmas, we also wanted to haul the boat to have the bottom painted. We contacted friends at Catamarans Hotel and Marina to see if there would be space for us. Catamarans is very difficult to get into as they do not accept reservations and are usually full. It is also helpful to have a recommendation from someone already there, in our case, Iain and Jan from Jocks Lodge. Catamarans did indeed have a side tie slot. We were familiar with Catamarans, as when we stayed at Monkey Bay just across the river, we would go to Catamarans on Sundays to watch football. As expected, it felt like we were coming home, seeing all our friends and immediately getting reengaged with some of the many activities on the Rio Dulce. Catamarans has a nice pool, so afternoons are spent hanging out by the pool with friends.

Dominos (Jan, Celine, Linda, and Suzanne)

On Christmas Day, a few of us decided not to go out to any of the several Christmas dinners, but instead gathered together, each bringing some (someone else's term) heavy hors d'oeuvres. We had a wonderful time, with good food and good company.

Christmas Dinner Poolside

Iain's Birthday is on Christmas Day

We are scheduled to haul out at RAM Marina on January 3, so our rapid pace (not sailing) continues. We will be back off the river before we know it. Daragh and Cathy only planned about a month in Guatemala, so we would not be surprised to be sailing with them again.

Watercraft Of The San Blas

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:47:00 +0000


Excellent Sailor

Bringing Us Our Coconuts

Colorful Sail

Coco Bandero Images

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Sun, 23 Dec 2012 17:44:00 +0000

The Coco Bandero Cays were our favorite in the San Blas. These small uninhabited islands are very scenic with white sand beaches and wonderfully clear water. We enjoyed walking the island's perimeters along the sandy beaches.

These pictures are associated with the original posting date, 11/21/2012

Nargana Images

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Sat, 22 Dec 2012 19:46:00 +0000

Original Nargana posting dated 11/19/2012

Our Main Man - Federico

Playing With The Kids

Found My WiFi Spot

Molas

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Fri, 21 Dec 2012 21:52:00 +0000

These are the pictures associated with the post dated November 15, 2012.

The mola forms part of the traditional costume of a Kuna woman, with two mola panels incorporated as front and back panels in a blouse. The full costume traditionally includes a patterned wrapped skirt (saburet), a red and yellow headscarf (musue), arm and leg beads (wini), a gold nose ring (olasu), and earrings, in addition to the mola blouse (dulemor).

In the Kuna's native language, "mola" means "shirt" or "clothing". The mola originated from the tradition of Kuna women painting their bodies with geometric designs using natural colors; in later years, these same designs were woven into cotton, and later still, sewn with cloth bought from the European settlers of Panama.

Portobello Photos

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Thu, 20 Dec 2012 18:56:00 +0000

These are the pictures associated with the post dated November 6, 2012, which was posted via SSB radio and Pactor modem without attachments.

San Fernando Fort Battery (constructed in 1760)

San Fernando Fort Battery

Customs House (originally constructed 1630)

Passage To Roatan

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Wed, 12 Dec 2012 17:33:00 +0000

The memories from last Christmas season came flooding back during our brief return visit to Providencia. Providencia is a very special place to us and to most cruisers who stop there. Very few people find their way to Providencia, so it remains very much an unspoiled island community. We quickly got back into the Christmas spirit as they have music and organized activities going on almost every evening. It was wonderful to see people we met last year and to see familiar faces, and to see the recognition on their faces as they recognized us. We rented a mule for the day. It is a golf cart-sized utility vehicle. We used it to haul our jerry cans with diesel, but also to tour the island one last time.

A really good weather window came up, so we had to go on. Staying any longer for another window could have meant staying several weeks, and while that would be very agreeable with us, it was not in our plans.

Forward 911

Our first day out of Providencia, well off the coast of Nicaragua, the US Coast Guard ship Forward 911 came by to check us out. We first spotted them on the far horizon and watched as they made their way to our location, approaching from our starboard. We had previously heard them on the radio with Chantey V, a Canadian boat we were traveling with that was several miles ahead of us and not visible. I hailed 911 as they approached to identify ourselves, and they had a few questions for us, which they spread out over about half an hour. They trailed behind us during this time, and then we saw them veer off to the right and guessed they were putting a launch in the water out of sight from us. Sure enough, they next announced we were to be boarded, and immediately their launch came around the stern of 911. The launch had eight persons aboard, of whom four came aboard for a safety inspection and a search. They were all very cordial and friendly, and we enjoyed their company. We do not mind boardings (this is our second) and appreciate all the Coast Guard does for mariners. It also gave us reassurance that they were in the vicinity of the coast of Nicaragua, which is one of the least safe places.

Our three-day, three-night trip could not have been better. The seas were fairly calm, and the sailing was good. Last night, the wind was directly behind us and very strong, so our issue was keeping the boat speed down. We arrived at 7am at French Cay Harbor, right on schedule.

French Cay Harbor is the place to be again for cruisers on Roatan. A new place, Brooksy Point Yacht Club, opened last Christmas as a cruisers club. It is a nice facility, and for a club fee of $15 per week, they have everything we could want, including WiFi, showers, Sky TV, coin laundry, a gathering place, and much more. It was set up by Mike, a cruiser who had to give it up for health reasons. We are almost tempted to stay here awhile, but we think we will keep pushing on, weather depending.

Weather Forecast ???

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Fri, 07 Dec 2012 14:47:00 +0000

The problem with the weather is that it doesn't always adhere to the forecast. With a very good weather forecast, we decided to clear out of Panama. We actually cleared out on Tuesday with a planned departure on Thursday. Wednesday was the official Independence Day (from Spain) in Panama, although they moved the actual holiday to Monday for the long weekend. We didn't want to chance the government offices being closed on Wednesday, so we cleared early.

Typical House - This With Upgraded Roof - Location, Location, Location

Siblings bringing their lobster catch to sell

On Thursday evening, thinking it was our last in San Blas, a sister and brother team came by with some very large lobsters, so we had a lobster dinner, thinking, what a fitting ending to our short time in the San Blas. Well, Friday night we were still there, so we had pizza, which we decided was good comfort food before our long trip.

Lucky for us that our chosen waiting spot to depart, Chichime, was a wonderful location. We could have easily stayed for an extended period, but of course, when you have cleared out of a country, you are supposed to leave. The great-looking weather opportunity began to be pushed out and deteriorate a little. We decided to delay our departure til Friday morning. Friday morning, the wind had not abated, and the seas off San Blas were running six feet, so we decided to wait until later in the day. The winds blew steadily all day until around four, when they suddenly dropped to almost zero. The seas were still rough, so we again delayed until Saturday morning. During the night, the winds were calm, and upon waking Saturday morning, the seas looked good. As soon as we pulled anchor, the winds picked up again.

Checking to see what may have washed up overnight

The wind direction for the entire trip was north-north-east, and our rhumb line was northwest, so we motor-sailed as close to the wind as possible and tried to get as much easting as possible in case the wind backed more to the north. The wind ranged between 15 and 25 knots the entire trip. We managed to gain about fifteen miles to the east, but in the end, we didn't need it, so the last few miles were a nice ride as we gave up the ground we had made.

Originally, with the good weather forecast, we had intended to go to Honduras, but here we are in Providencia. We like Providencia, so we are actually very pleased to be here. It was going to be hard for us to pass it up anyway. We are here with several boats that made the same journey as we did, but we were all spread out quite apart.

In the anchorage, we have two American boats (including us), two British boats, one Canadian, one French, and one New Zealand.

We are already studying the weather models for our next trip, also knowing the weather may follow the models' forecast.

Veggie Boat

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Thu, 29 Nov 2012 18:04:00 +0000

Our weather data showed a very promising opportunity to travel north. It is a little sooner than we had planned to leave, but at this time of year, the opportunities are rare. For the past week or so, several boats have been stuck in Providencia, waiting to go north or south, depending on the circumstances. We remember last December, while we were in Providencia, when several boats were forced to stay there for several weeks. So with that in mind, we started working our way toward Porvenir to clear out of Panama and to stage our departure.

On the short sail from the Eastern Holandes to the Eastern Lemmon Cays, we heard on the radio that the 'Veggie Boat' was making the rounds in the Lemmon Cays. This was welcomed as great news, as the 'Veggie Boat' had not been around recently, and most people were now resorting to canned goods. This was to be our first (and only) 'Veggie Boat' experience. We arrived on time, and after waiting patiently, we got our chance. People buy a lot, and he visits every boat, so it takes a long time to make the rounds. The wait was worth it because the quality and selection were the best we have seen in Central America. They have obviously figured out what cruising boats want. We bought a wide selection.

On the subject of food, we do eat well on Ariel. Linda has become very expert at provisioning and planning a varied menu. This is very challenging, as she needs to buy several weeks in advance, often at stores with much more limited selection.

The Eastern Lemmons was much more crowded than we had expected, but we found a nice spot and enjoyed a wonderful evening. The next day, after a couple of showers passed our area, we went on to Porvenir, cleared out, and got our Zarpe from the Port Captain and cleared with Immigration. We did not stay in Porvenir because the anchorage was very rough. We moved on to Chichime. These cays are very far out on the bank and a good departure point. We are between a couple of lightly inhabited cays, each with three or four little homes. Like most cays, there is no electric power, and the only lights at night are from the anchored boats. We have been visited by several local residents who want to sell fish or their handmade items. We weren't interested in buying anything.

This is a great location for our final nights in the San Blas.

A San Blas Thanksgiving

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Fri, 23 Nov 2012 19:10:00 +0000

On Thanksgiving Day, we moved from Coco Bandero Cays to the Holandes Cays. Along the way, we caught a pretty good-sized fish, which was our hope, so we could have a special Thanksgiving Day meal. There are relatively few United States-flagged vessels here, most seeming to be from European countries, so it seemed a little different. There was no chance of turkey, and all that goes with it, since getting even the bare essentials here is difficult, so grilled fish was a great substitute. We are certainly thankful for all our blessings, wherever we may be. The Holandes Cays are the furthest from the mainland, and therefore, they have the clearest water. We are anchored in thirty feet, but the bottom is quite visible. These cays are protected by a wide reef, so while the surf is crashing nearby, it is peaceful on our side of the reef.

We are closely monitoring the weather now, looking for an opportunity to sail to Providencia, Colombia. Some may remember we spent most of last December in Providencia, including Christmas. It is a two-day, two-night trip from here, so we need a pretty decent window. There will be a few boats leaving once the window opens up, so we will have company along the way.

Coco Bandero Cays

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Wed, 21 Nov 2012 15:03:00 +0000

We are now in the Coco Bandero Cays, and this, so far, is the most beautiful place we have been in the San Blas. We keep extending our stay here, but there is more to see, so eventually we will have to let go. We can't post a picture, but if you look up 'The Panama Cruising Guide' 4th edition, by Eric Bauhaus, the cover photo (if shown on the net) is the Coco Bandero Cays. The guide, by the way, is the best cruising guide we have used anywhere. We are anchored among several very small cays, each totally rimmed with sandy beaches and covered with coconut palms. We exercise by walking the perimeters of the cays.

We are anchored in a spot popular with the pelicans, so in the late afternoon, we are entertained watching them dive for their supper. I have taken to rating their dives, just like the Olympic diving judges, especially if two or more dive together, so I can rate the synchronized diving.

Somewhere along the way, we picked up a gecko, probably during the summer at Red Frog. He is very shy, so we don't see him often, but we do find his droppings. That is the one downside of geckos on board. The other morning, we found he had helped himself to our tomatoes that we had left out.

Speaking of wildlife, we did see a crocodile while anchoring at Nargana, and a good-sized one at that. We had been hoping for a sighting. We have also seen sea turtles, rays, and dolphins, and the beaches we are on now have plenty of starfish.

A part of our watermaker failed, and it cannot be repaired until I can get a replacement. We are now collecting rainwater to meet all of our water needs. So far, there has been plenty of rain, so we are doing well in that regard.

Posted from Coco Bandero Cays

Nargana Experiences

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Mon, 19 Nov 2012 14:25:00 +0000

Most of the inhabited islands of Kuna Yala, particularly to the west of our current location, are traditional, meaning they live as they have for hundreds of years, foregoing modern conveniences such as electricity. We have spent a few days at Nargana Yandup, here primarily because we can get internet and basic stores. We had no sooner anchored before we were approached by a cayuco. Federico introduced himself, and he is the one person we were hoping to meet in Nargana. Federico is a guide but can also take care of all our needs ashore. We sent him off with our laundry and trash. We later found out how important Federico would be as we wandered the very small island; we couldn't seem to find the tiendas, as advertising is not necessary in such a small village. At the school, we were told the internet was broken. A little later, stopping for a couple of sodas at a small shop, we found they were surprised to hear the internet was broken and suggested it was only available in the afternoon, and we probably misunderstood. Back in the afternoon, I talked to a teacher who confirmed it was indeed broken. I know this because I heard the word "modem" and then confirmed it could take weeks to repair. I also found out that the next island, Corazon de Jesus, has internet. This island is connected to Nargana by a pedestrian bridge. I set off across the bridge, not sure what I was looking for, but on the bridge, I saw a teenager with a notebook computer and asked. He said the whole island has WiFi. Spirits lifted, I just needed to find a shady spot.

I stopped at a pool hall (doesn't seem to fit the image, right?), bought a beer, and logged on. One hour and two beers later, all I had managed to do was access our emails. It is free, but way too slow for any useful purpose. The next day, we retrieved our laundry and then sent Federico off to get us some diesel fuel. Later, I went and got in line at the bank to try and get some more cash. It was a long line, always outside in this part of the world, as they control the number of people inside. After about an hour, I got my turn at the teller and found out that this branch cannot issue cash from my card. We are not short on cash, so it is not a big deal. Later in town to try the internet again, we ran into Federico and asked him to show us the tiendas. He took us to four different ones, and we bought some fruit and vegetables, but none of them were very large, and they carried very little. The timing was right as the supply boat from Colon had just arrived, so he took us down to the town dock, where we bought five pounds of ground beef off the supply boat ( $12.50). The internet still wasn't any faster; in fact, I got nothing done, so I decided to try very early in the morning. While I sat in front of the pool hall, waiting for the internet and trying to chat with the locals, Linda was out distributing small toys to the kids. She returned with the pack of them, and I safeguarded my computer. I have learned that kids love to reach out and push a key or something, and I didn't want anything to disturb my nonexistent internet session. The people here are just wonderful. We have never, in all our travels, met friendlier people. While most people in Nargana have given up the traditional dress, many women still wear it, with colors so bright and vibrant. There is a mixture of homes on the island, probably about one half are the traditional stick homes with thatched roofs, and the rest are poured concrete with tin roofs.

I finally got high-speed internet. I went into the village square, where the signal seemed the strongest just after daybreak, before many people were stirring. I couldn't believe the difference. I completed some bill paying and set up our weather data emails, which we will need. Pictures will have to wait for a better opportunity.

Posted from Coco Bandero Cays

San Blas Adventures

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Thu, 15 Nov 2012 18:58:00 +0000

Each day is a new adventure. During our first full day in the San Blas, after we had settled in at Lemmons Cays with another 7 or 8 boats, a guy came by with a bin full of molas, so we invited him aboard and spent about 1 ½ hours narrowing our selection. They were of very good quality, which is why we invited him aboard. We finally settled on a few molas and are happy with our purchase. A mola is actually part of a woman's blouse, but has become an art form and is Panama's best-known handicraft. They are made by cutting and stitching different layers of cloth. Actually, it is too difficult to describe.

The next day, Lisa stopped by and introduced herself. She came during a light rain, so we had a good excuse not to invite her aboard. We had heard of Lisa long before arriving in the San Blas. Lisa is an infamous transvestite who does very well at promoting herself. Later in the day, a family stopped by that wanted to sell lobsters. They were too small, so we rejected them, and hopefully, all cruisers will reject undersized catch. Next, the woman offered a mola, but it was of poor quality, so after we declined, they asked for candy for the child, at which point we sent them on their way.

The following day, we moved to Salardup and for the first time had the anchorage to ourselves, but we also noticed a couple of huts behind a very beautiful sandy beach at the tip of the island. Late in the day, a couple of guys from the island paddled out in their cayuco. The native language is Kuna, with Spanish as a second language. One of the guys spoke Spanish and absolutely no English. After a long, struggling conversation, we realized they wanted gasoline so they could travel to one of the populated islands closer to the mainland. We agreed to give them a couple of gallons in exchange for a couple of coconuts. Coconuts are very important to the Kuna and a big part of their economy. We have been enjoying the best coconut we have ever had. We determined that one of these guys owned the island or at least his family does, and they are running a day trip tourist stop, or at least trying to. The next morning, before we got underway, they passed us on their way in toward the mainland.

Also, the next morning, before we got underway, Lisa stopped by again. We explained we were just getting underway, so we did not want to look at molas. When we arrived at our next stop, Green Island, Lisa was on a catamaran showing them molas, and by now we are old friends, so of course we exchanged waves with her. Just after we got settled on the anchor, a couple of guys stopped by selling lobsters, so we bought some. These seemed to be the legal size, but certainly not what we would term grande, which is how they referred to the ones we selected.

Arrived San Blas

noreply@blogger.com (S/V Ariel) — Wed, 14 Nov 2012 20:38:00 +0000

We had observed while waiting behind Isla Linton for good weather to complete the last leg of our trip to the San Blas that our weather data was not matching the conditions we were seeing. We began to wonder whether being situated near the steep hills and mountains nearby was creating localized effects. We were rocking horribly at anchor from incoming swell, so we decided to head out and see if we could tolerate maybe ten hours of what looked to be very rough and confused seas. Once out, we confirmed it was very rough, but we decided to go on. The wind was just enough off the nose that we could get the stay sail out, and that helped drive through the seas. It was what we call a washing-machine ride, like watching a cork bounce around during the wash cycle of a top-loading machine. Our trip took just a little over eight hours, so not bad. The boat down below needed a lot of straightening out after we arrived, and we had a water mishap, which was a big surprise. We were running low on water, which influenced our decision to go. We ran the watermaker for 8 hours while underway, and we were really surprised to find we had a near-empty water tank once we got there. I probably hit the cold water faucet in the galley while below and being jostled around, and didn't notice it, so we pumped just about all our water down the drain. We were so looking forward to those showers, too. We recovered quickly by opening the deck fill to the water tank, building a small dam, and began collecting rainwater. By morning, we had a 1/8 tank, good enough for coffee and showers.

We stayed the night off Porvenir to check in with the Port Captain in the morning. After checking in, we moved on a short distance to the Lemmon Cays. We have been blown away by the beauty and peacefulness of the San Blas, and we have yet to begin to really explore. We are now slowly working our way east toward Nargana. We have been without internet for two weeks now, and we understand we may be able to get internet at the school in Nargana. We did hear the election results on the BBC, only because we made the effort; otherwise, we have had no news, but we are not complaining. Being disconnected is nice once in a while.